New solid cosmetic compositions and use thereof for hygiene of the skin or hair

EP4680182A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-01-21PIERRE FABRE DERMO COSMETIQUE SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
EP2024709796
Authority / Receiving Office
EP · EP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-03-16
Filing Date
2024-03-13
Publication Date
2026-01-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Current solid cosmetic compositions, such as soaps and syndets, are either too aggressive for sensitive skin or lack natural ingredients, compromising foaming power and environmental sustainability, while products with natural ingredients often have insufficient foaming capabilities and undesirable textures.

Method used

A solid cosmetic composition combining 30-65% consistency agents, including alkyl glucosides and amphoteric surfactants, with a maximum of 20% anionic surfactants, and minimal water content, achieving high foaming power, naturalness, and pleasant sensory characteristics, suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides excellent foaming power, a naturalness index greater than 85%, and a pH close to physiological levels, ensuring gentle skin care and hair hygiene with a stable, non-sticky, and aesthetically pleasing texture.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition which is particularly suitable for the care and / or hygiene of the skin and / or hair. This composition contains 30 to 65% by weight of consistency agent(s), a little water, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, in a total content of less than or equal to 20% by weight. This composition has a high degree of naturalness and good foamability.
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Description

[0001] NEW SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND THEIR USE FOR SKIN OR HAIR HYGIENE

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form, as well as the use of such a composition for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair using such a composition.

[0003] STATE OF THE ART

[0004] The solid cosmetics market is currently in vogue, and many companies are putting on the market compositions in solid form, more ecological than liquid compositions, for washing and / or caring for the body, face or hair.

[0005] The oldest solid cosmetic compositions widely used by consumers are soaps, products resulting from a saponification reaction. Due to their high pH, ​​typically above 10, soaps are, however, very aggressive for the skin, especially for sensitive skin, and not suitable for hair use.

[0006] Syndets, synthetic surfactants, have more recently emerged as a beneficial alternative to saponified products. Syndets have the same cleansing properties as conventional soaps, including good foaming power, while being less harsh on the skin.

[0007] Examples of products proposed by the prior art based on such syndets are the product “Shampoo bar” from the company Hopery Benjamin Bôhme (Mintel file 8088547), marketed on the German market, and the product “Solid Shampoo” from the company L'Occitane (Mintel file 10325914), marketed on the Belgian market.

[0008] The list of ingredients on the packaging of these products shows first, respectively, for the first, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and for the second, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate immediately followed by sodium cocoyl isethionate. In accordance with Article 19 1g), paragraph 4, of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products, the list of ingredients mentioned on the packaging must be established in descending order of their weight at the time of their incorporation into the cosmetic product. It is thus understood that sodium cocoyl isethionate is the major ingredient of the first of these formulas, and disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and sodium cocoyl isethionate are the major ingredients of the second of these formulas.However, consumers are increasingly vigilant about the composition of their cosmetic products, and are looking for products with few chemical ingredients, such as isethionates and sulfosuccinates, in preference to ingredients of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more environmentally friendly. However, products based on ingredients of natural origin generally lack quantity and / or quality of foam.

[0009] The development of cosmetic compositions having both a high degree of naturalness and very good foaming power constitutes a challenge, all the more so since such combined properties must preferably be accompanied by other characteristics that are highly desirable for such cosmetic compositions, in particular concerning their consistency, their degree of stickiness, their appearance and their sensory characteristics.

[0010] The present invention aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition which meets all of these criteria, and in particular which has a physiological pH, which is respectful of the epidermis and which contains a maximum of ingredients of natural origin, while having excellent foaming power, a beautiful appearance, in particular a shiny appearance and a homogeneous texture, pleasant for consumers.

[0011] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition contains as few ingredients as possible, and that it is suitable for use on all skin types, including sensitive skin and atopic skin.

[0012] The invention also aims to ensure that this solid composition has sufficient consistency so that it does not crumble when handled, or when stored over time, that is to say that it is not too hard, without however being too soft and too sticky so that its use would be impractical and unpleasant, and its manufacture would be difficult using conventional manufacturing devices for solid compositions, in particular by extrusion.

[0013] STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0014] It has been discovered by the present inventors that such objectives are achieved by implementing a particular combination of surfactants, this combination combining a much higher degree of naturalness than the syndets commonly used in the field of cosmetics, as well as, unexpectedly, a particularly high foaming power when brought into contact with water, this foaming power being expressed in particular in terms of rapid foam start, abundance of foam and quantity of bubbles in the foam. This combination of surfactants also makes it possible to form solid compositions that are both not very sticky and of adequate hardness, having an attractive appearance, a homogeneous texture and advantageous sensory characteristics.

[0015] Thus, according to a first aspect, there is provided according to the present invention a solid cosmetic composition which contains:

[0016] - a total of 30 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of consistency agent(s),

[0017] - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, advantageously of natural origin,

[0018] - at least one anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts being less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total content of surfactants in the composition being between 10 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition, this composition:

[0019] - contains less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0020] - and is free from gelling agent or contains less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of gelling agent(s).

[0021] A solid composition is defined in the present description, in a conventional manner in itself, as a composition in the form of a block, not flowing under the effect of its weight. Such a definition excludes in particular powder forms.

[0022] More particularly, for the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid composition” means any composition having a hardness (compressive strength) greater than or equal to 20 grams, at room temperature, i.e. at a temperature between 20 and 25°C. This hardness can be measured by penetration, into a matrix of the composition, over a thickness of 8 mm and at a speed of 1 mm / s, of a cylindrical probe of revolution having a diameter of 0.8 cm, and measurement of the penetration force of the probe. Any texture analysis device can be used for this purpose, in particular a TA.XT+ analyzer marketed by the company Stable Micro Systems.

[0023] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is of the type intended to be used, in particular for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, directly in its solid form, as opposed to compositions in solid form intended to be dissolved in water before their use so as to constitute a liquid composition, the form in which they are intended to be used. Thus, unlike such compositions to be dissolved prior to use, the composition according to the invention is devoid of, or contains very little, that is to say less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of gelling agents.In particular, the composition according to the invention is free of or contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of gelling agents chosen from gums, more particularly chosen from xanthan gum, diutan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucan gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum and Caesalpinia spinosa gum.

[0024] The composition according to the invention is furthermore preferably also free of substances capable of creating agitation on contact with water, such as an effervescent base, in particular a combination of an organic acid and alkali and / or alkaline earth carbonate or hydrogen carbonate, for example citric acid and sodium carbonate.

[0025] The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention may, for example, be packaged in the form of a bar, pebble, ball, stick or rod, optionally in a refillable packaging device, etc.

[0026] The composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least one acceptable cosmetic excipient.

[0027] In the present description, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means that the salt or excipient is suitable for use by contacting with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant odor, color and / or feel, it does not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition according to the invention.

[0028] In the present description, the term "at least one" means a single compound or a mixture of several such compounds. Thus, as surfactants, the composition according to the invention may in particular contain:

[0029] - a single non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or a plurality of such non-ionic surfactants, and / or a single amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, or a plurality of such amphoteric surfactants,

[0030] - and a single anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, or a plurality of such anionic surfactants. Preferably, however, the composition according to the invention does not contain both an anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and an anionic surfactant chosen from sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts. Thus, the composition according to the invention preferably contains either one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, or one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0031] Such a specific mixture of surfactants advantageously ensures a high foaming power of the composition when the latter is brought into contact with water, as well as a good quality of the foam formed. Without presuming the phenomena underlying these performances of the combination of surfactants according to the invention, it can be thought that they are due to a synergy of effect of the particular groups carried by these surfactants, in particular glucoside and / or amphoteric groups on the one hand, and isethionic acid / isethionate and / or sulfosuccinic acid / sulfosuccinate on the other hand, as well as to the particular chain length of the alkyl radical of the non-ionic alkyl glucoside surfactant, which contributes to its foaming power.

[0032] In particular, it has been found by the present inventors that the partial replacement, in a solid cosmetic composition, of an anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, by an alkyl glucoside in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular the replacement of 25 to 35% by weight of such an anionic surfactant by such an alkyl glucoside, does not in any way impact the foaming power of the composition, and even, on the contrary, increases it in certain aspects, while making it possible to form compositions with a higher naturalness index. This is all the more unexpected since non-ionic surfactants are known for their low foaming power.In particular, by the combination of an anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and a non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, a high foaming power of the composition can be obtained with a total concentration of anionic surfactants which is particularly low compared to the concentrations recommended by the prior art, i.e. less than or equal to 20% by weight, and even less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] In general, the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably has a naturalness index, determined according to the calculation method of the ISO 16128:2017 standard, greater than or equal to approximately 85%, preferably greater than or equal to approximately 90%. All of its constituents are advantageously chosen to achieve such values. Thus, the ingredients contained in the composition according to the invention are preferably of natural origin, thus meeting a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin which has been marking the cosmetics market for several years.

[0034] For this reason of naturalness, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of paraffin.

[0035] It is also preferably free of ingredients that are irritating to the skin, drying, intolerant and / or allergenic. Thus, in addition to the fact that it is preferably free of amphoteric surfactant of the amidopropyl betaine class, preferably, the composition according to the invention is also free of anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group, i.e. an -O-SO3H or -O-SO2-O- group, such as laureth sulfate or lauryl sulfate. Although sulfated surfactants have a particularly advantageous foaming power, they are in fact aggressive for the epidermis.

[0036] Preferably, always in order to improve its tolerance by users, the composition according to the invention is also preferably free of microplastics of the acrylate or silicone class, and preferably free of acrylate and silicone functional compound.

[0037] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain an alkyl glucoside whose alkyl radical has more than 16 carbon atoms, for example no arachidyl glucoside. Such a substance, unlike the alkyl glucosides with a C8-C16 alkyl radical recommended by the invention, in particular gives the composition too high a hardness. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain a mixture of arachidyl glucoside and arachidyl alcohol.

[0038] It is furthermore advantageously free of soap, that is to say of substance obtained by saponification, such as the substances with the INCI names sodium palmate, sodium cocoate, sodium olivate, sodium stearate, etc. The pH of the composition according to the invention is thus advantageously close to the physiological pH of the skin. It is preferably between 4.5 and 7, preferably between 5 and 6.5. The pH of the solid composition according to the invention can be measured by dissolving the composition in water, for example at a rate of 1 g of composition in 100 g of water, and measuring the pH of the solution obtained.

[0039] The composition according to the invention further comprises 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and preferentially from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of anionic surfactants chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts relative to the total weight of the composition. Its content of these anionic surfactants is in this respect much lower than those of the solid cosmetic compositions of the prior art, which typically comprise nearly 40% by weight of such anionic surfactants.

[0040] The total content of surfactants in the composition is furthermore between 10 and 50% by weight, preferably between 15 and 40% by weight, preferentially between 15 and 35% by weight, and even more preferentially between 20 and 30% by weight or between 15 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may in particular be between 18 and 25% by weight, for example between 18 and 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such ranges of values ​​ensure good foaming power of the composition and good quality of the foam formed, while being associated with a reduced manufacturing cost of the composition.

[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content of the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of water, or contains only trace amounts of water. In variants of the invention, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 4% by weight of water, in particular from 1 to 3% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The composition according to the invention may also meet one or more of the characteristics described below, implemented in isolation or in each of their technically effective combinations.

[0043] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition further contains at least one, i.e. one or more, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts. The use of such an anionic surfactant, of natural origin, advantageously makes it possible to increase the naturalness index of the composition, without degrading its foaming power, in particular when it is incorporated into the composition as a partial replacement for the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0044] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines in the composition is between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition is preferably between 10 and 35% by weight, in particular between 15 and 30% by weight, and preferably between 20 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition.

[0046] Preferably, all of the non-ionic surfactants contained in the composition according to the invention are alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms in the composition is preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 2 and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The total content of amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines in the composition is preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition.

[0048] The total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, when present in the composition, is preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight and more preferably between 5 and 15% by weight or between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, when present in the composition, is furthermore between 20 and 40% by weight, in particular between 20 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of surfactants contained in the composition.

[0050] When present in the composition according to the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably with 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group may in particular be chosen from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl and oleoyl groups. The cosmetically acceptable salt of acyl glutamic acid may be chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts and ammonium salts. It is for example chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium or magnesium salts, the sodium and potassium salts being particularly preferred in the context of the invention.The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with INCI names: sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Several anionic surfactants chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, in particular meeting the above characteristics, may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may, for example, contain any mixture of two or more of the compounds listed above.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, this anionic surfactant then preferably meeting one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0051] The non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from compounds with INCI names: octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside. Several non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may for example contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds (octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, this non-ionic surfactant then preferably corresponding to one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0052] The amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines may, for example, be chosen from sodium caproamphoacetate, sodium caproamphopropionate, sodium capryloamphoacetate, sodium capryloamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium isostearoamphoacetate, sodium isostearoamphopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium oleoamphoacetate, sodium oleoamphopropionate, sodium stearoamphoacetate, sodium stearoamphopropionate, sodium tallow amphoacetate, wheat germ amphoacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium isostearoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate,disodium isostearoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium stearoamphodiacetate, disodium tallow amphodiacetate and disodium wheat germ amphodiacetate.

[0053] Preferably, said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is chosen from lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

[0054] Several amphoteric surfactants other than amidopropyl betaines may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may for example contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds, in particular two or more of: lauryl betaine, coco betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, this amphoteric surfactant then preferably corresponding to one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0055] In the class of amidopropyl betaines, excluded from the composition according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular: behenamidopropyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, isostearamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, myristamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl betaine, undecyleneamidopropyl betaine, as well as amidopropyl betaines derived from almond, apricot, avocado, Babassu, rapeseed, coconut oil, sunflower oil, oat, olive, palm oil, castor oil, soybean, shea butter or wheat germ.

[0056] The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably chosen from acyl isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, such as the substances with INCI names: sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate. Several anionic surfactants chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts may be used in the composition according to the invention, which may for example contain any mixture of two or more of the above compounds.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, this anionic surfactant then preferably corresponding to one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0057] The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts are preferably chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, such as the substance with the INCI name disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate. Several anionic surfactants chosen from sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts can be used in the composition according to the invention. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a single anionic surfactant chosen from sulfosuccinic acids, preferably alkyl sulfosuccinic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, this anionic surfactant then preferably corresponding to one or more of the characteristics stated above, or no such surfactant.

[0058] Generally, the composition according to the invention preferably contains as few surfactants as possible. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not comprise more than 6 surfactants, preferably no more than 5 surfactants, more preferably no more than 4 surfactants and preferably 3 or 2 surfactants. As indicated above, a high foaming power can be obtained with two or three of the particular families of surfactants defined above, advantageously making it possible to minimize the number of ingredients present in the composition.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may contain anionic surfactants other than those defined above. Preferably, it does not contain any anionic surfactant other than isethionic acids, isethionates, sulfosuccinic acids, sulfosuccinates, acyl glutamic acids and acyl glutamates. Similarly, the composition according to the invention may contain non-ionic surfactants other than those defined above. Preferably, it does not contain any non-ionic surfactant other than alkyl glycosides whose alkyl radical contains 8 to 16 carbon atoms. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants, for example when it is intended for the cosmetic treatment of hair, for a conditioning treatment. Preferably, it is free of cationic surfactant of non-natural origin, and, preferably, more generally, of any cationic surfactant.

[0060] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains, as surfactants, only:

[0061] - one or more, preferably only one, non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, or one or more amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines,

[0062] - one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids, preferably alkyl sulfosuccinic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts,

[0063] - and, optionally, one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0064] Preferably, the composition contains, as surfactants, only:

[0065] - one or more, preferably only one, non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably in a content of between 2 and 10% by weight, for example between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0066] - one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, preferably in a content of between 10 and 20% by weight, for example between 10 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0067] - and, optionally, one or more, preferably only one, anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, preferably in a content of between 1 and 20% by weight, for example between 3 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] In such embodiments, more preferably, the respective contents of each of said types of surfactants, relative to the total content of surfactants in the composition, expressed in % by weight relative to the total weight of surfactants in the composition, are as follows:

[0069] - 20 to 30% of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and 70 to 80% of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts,

[0070] - or 20 to 30% of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, 40 to 60% of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids, preferably acyl isethionic acids, and their cosmetically acceptable salts, and 20 to 30% of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0071] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase consistency agent, in a content of between 30 and 65% by weight, preferably between 30 and 60% by weight, preferentially between 35 and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a concentration of consistency agent(s) in the composition advantageously ensures, in combination with the filler(s) which may also be contained therein, as mentioned below, optimal hardness and tackiness characteristics of the composition, in particular a hardness which is sufficiently low so that the composition does not crumble when handled by the user and sufficiently strong so that the composition has a consistency allowing it to be handled easily, and a tackiness which is sufficiently strong so that the composition has good cohesion, while being sufficiently low so as not to reduce its practical and pleasant characteristics of use.

[0072] The composition according to the invention may in particular contain one or more consistency agent(s) chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably C16-C22, fatty acids, in particular C16-C18, hydrogenated vegetable oils and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0073] Preferably, it contains at least one consistency agent chosen from C16-C22 fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol.

[0074] In particular embodiments of the invention, when the composition comprises, as consistency agents, at least one or more fatty alcohol(s) and one or more fatty acid(s), then the total content of fatty alcohol(s) is higher, preferably at least 4 times higher, preferentially at least 5 times higher and even 6 times higher, than the total content of fatty acid(s). Such a characteristic advantageously ensures good qualitative properties for the composition, in particular a homogeneous texture, a beautiful smooth and shiny appearance, and a good consistency.

[0075] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention, when it contains one or more fatty acid(s) as consistency agent(s), then also contains at least one fatty alcohol or a hydrogenated vegetable oil or hydrogenated castor oil.

[0076] In preferred embodiments of the invention, at least one of the consistency agents is contained in the composition in an individual content which is greater than 15% by weight, preferably greater than 20% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 35% by weight, and in particular greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This consistency agent is then preferably a C16-C22 fatty alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol.

[0077] The content of this consistency agent in the composition may, for example, be greater than 15% by weight and less than or equal to 65% by weight, preferably greater than 20% by weight and less than or equal to 65% by weight, or even between 30 and 65% by weight, preferably between 30 and 60% by weight, and preferentially between 35 and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, at least one consistency agent is present in the composition in a content which is greater than the total content in the composition of the anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

[0079] Thus, in the embodiments of the invention in which the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, it is advantageous according to the invention for the composition to contain at least one consistency agent in an individual content greater than 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, this consistency agent then preferably being a C16-C22 fatty alcohol.In the preferred embodiments of the invention in which the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, then it is sufficient for the composition to contain at least one consistency agent in an individual content greater than 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Here again, this consistency agent is then preferably a C16-C22 fatty alcohol. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more emulsifiers, such as for example glycol palmitate (INCI name) or the products marketed under the names Montanov® 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) and Montanov® 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside). It may otherwise be free of them.Preferably, it is free from emulsifier formed from a mixture with the INCI name “arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside”, such as the mixture marketed under the name Montanov® 202.

[0080] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipient(s). Each of these excipients is preferably chosen from fillers, emollients, in particular oils, conditioning agents, stabilizers, perfumes, colorants and pigments.

[0081] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises, as a cosmetically acceptable excipient, at least one filler, which may be of either mineral or organic origin.

[0082] As fillers of mineral origin that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of clays, ceramic beads, calcium carbonate, titanium oxides, kaolin or aluminum silicate. As fillers of organic origin, mention may be made of starches, maltodextrin, celluloses such as cellulose beads, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium carbonate, nylon microspheres, micronized or non-micronized vegetable powders such as fruit powders or bamboo powders, or even rice grain hull powder, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one filler chosen from kaolin, maltodextrin, starches, celluloses, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0083] The starches that can be used in the present invention can be derived from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. They can be, for example, corn starch, potato starch, pea starch, rice starch, oat starch, barley starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, cassaya starch or sorghum starch. These starches can be modified or not. A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion. As cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose as sold under the name Vivapur® CS 9 FM can be used, for example. Kaolin sold under the name ImerCare® Opaque by the company Imerys can, for example, be used.

[0084] The total amount of filler(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 5 and 25% by weight, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, for example between 15 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, at least one of the fillers contained in the composition according to the invention is present therein in a content greater than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] Thus, preferably, the total content of consistency agent(s) in the composition, in particular when the composition contains only one or more fatty alcohol(s) as consistency agent(s), or when it contains mainly one or more fatty alcohol(s) as consistency agent(s), is greater than the total content of filler(s) in the composition.

[0087] Furthermore, when the composition contains one or more oils, the total content of filler(s) is preferably greater than the total content of oil(s).

[0088] In particular embodiments of the invention, the oil content of the composition is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight and preferentially less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more emollients, in particular chosen from vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil or jojoba oil, butters, such as shea butter, for example as sold under the name Lipex SheaLight® or Cetiol® SB 45, glycerin, lauroyl lysine, for example as sold under the name Amihope® LL.

[0090] The content of emollient(s) in the composition according to the invention is, for example, between 2 and 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, and in particular between 2 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more pH adjusters. It is preferably free of pH adjusters, in particular of the NaOH, citric acid, lactic acid, etc. type.

[0092] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more conditioning agent(s), preferably not belonging to the category of cationic surfactants. Such agents provide beneficial effects for both hair and skin. Each of these conditioning agents may in particular be chosen from isoamyl laurate, lauroyl lysine, erythritol, glyceryl oleate, for example as sold under the name DUB® OG, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, the combination of chitosan and mandelic acid, or any of their mixtures. The total amount of conditioning agent(s) in the composition is preferably between 0.01 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, and preferentially between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more conditioning agent(s) chosen from guar and its derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar, in a total amount of between 0.01 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, and preferentially between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Where appropriate, the composition according to the invention may further contain one or more stabilizers, such as chelating agents, for example tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, as sold under the name Dissolvine® GL-47-S, vitamin E or tocopherol acetate, as sold under the name Covi-ox® T-90.

[0095] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more cosmetically active agents, in particular topically, for example chosen from moisturizing agents, antioxidants, vitamins, etc.

[0096] The content of cosmetically active agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may, for example, be between 0.05 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises one or more cosmetically active agent(s), each preferably being chosen from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helychris extracts, helychris essential oils, meadowfoam oil, in particular Limnanthes alba seed oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, such as the product sold under the name Acides de Fleurs®, Garcinia extracts, Milk Thistle oil, niacinamide, Edelweiss extracts, such as the product sold under the name Alpaflor® Edelweiss, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts, such a list being in no way limiting of the invention.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may further contain an exfoliating agent, which will allow the exfoliation of the skin (including the scalp) by mechanical and / or chemical action, exfoliating agents acting by both mechanical and chemical action being particularly preferred in the context of the invention. The exfoliating agent may be chosen from agents of mineral, plant or organic origin.Thus, for example, polyethylene beads or powder, nylon particles, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice stone (INCI name: pumice), walnut shells, sawdust, wood flour, cork flour, glass beads, alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), sugar crystals, beads that melt when applied to the skin, such as, for example, mannitol and cellulose-based spheres, agar-based capsules, jojoba ester-based spheres, fruit kernel powders, for example apricot kernel powders, and mixtures thereof can be used. The exfoliating agent(s) used are preferably not soluble in water.

[0098] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0099] It is also preferably free of aluminum and magnesium silicate, and, more generally, of silica.

[0100] The composition according to the invention, in its desired form, can be prepared by any conventional method per se for the preparation of solid cosmetic compositions. Particularly preferred preparation methods within the scope of the invention are the extrusion and hot casting methods. A method for preparing a composition according to the invention by extrusion comprises the preparation of a plug containing the surfactants of the composition, the consistency agent(s) and the excipient(s), to which any other ingredients, in particular active agent(s) and / or perfume, are then added. The mixture is then extruded through various screens in order to homogenize and refine it. Once the mixture is homogeneous, it gives a plug which is cut and struck in order to obtain a solid composition of the desired shape.

[0101] A method of preparing a composition according to the invention by hot casting comprises mixing the ingredients of the composition and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of approximately 75-80°C. The homogenized hot mixture is then cast into molds of the desired shape and then allowed to cool.

[0102] These preparation methods are both simple and quick to implement.

[0103] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for washing and / or caring for (including exfoliating) the skin, in particular the skin of the body and / or face and / or scalp, and / or hair, of an individual, preferably in topical application.

[0104] This use preferably comprises successive steps consisting of:

[0105] - wet the composition with water,

[0106] - develop foam, especially by rubbing the wet surface of the composition,

[0107] - apply this foam to the skin and / or hair, the latter preferably having been wet beforehand,

[0108] - and rinse, preferably with water, if necessary after a possible exposure time and / or massage.

[0109] These steps can, for example, be carried out once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, or as often as necessary. The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention can in particular be used for washing and / or caring for sensitive or atopic skin.

[0110] In this description, sensitive skin is understood to mean skin prone to irritation or allergic reactions due to various internal and external non-immunological factors. Atopic skin is understood to mean skin affected by an inflammatory disease characterized by dry skin associated with itching, such as in eczema or atopic dermatitis.

[0111] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair of an individual, using a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. This method comprises successive steps consisting of:

[0112] - wet the composition with water,

[0113] - develop foam,

[0114] - apply the foam to the skin and / or hair,

[0115] - and rinse, preferably with water.

[0116] This process may meet any characteristic, or combination of characteristics, described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention.

[0117] EXAMPLES

[0118] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the implementation examples below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention.

[0119] 1 / Examples of compositions

[0120] Solid compositions according to the invention, C1, C2 and C3, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the body and face, meet the characteristics shown in table 1 below.

[0121]

[0122] Table 1 - Examples of compositions in accordance with the invention for the hygiene and care of the skin of the body and face

[0123] Solid compositions not in accordance with the invention, Comp4, Comp5, Comp6, Comp7 and Comp8, intended for cosmetic treatment, for hygiene and care, of the skin of the body and face, meet the characteristics shown in Table 2 below.

[0124] Table 2 - Examples of compositions not in accordance with the invention

[0125] 2 / Evaluation of the characteristics of the compositions

[0126] The compositions of Example 1 are evaluated on the following criteria:

[0127] - foaming power (quantity / quality): foam height, creamy foam, softness of foam,

[0128] - good tolerance, physiological pH, hypoallergenic, softer and respectful of the epidermis,

[0129] - stability over time,

[0130] - organoleptic characteristics (color, odor),

[0131] - hardness, as measured by a texture analyzer, the composition having sufficient consistency not to crumble but not to be too soft,

[0132] - stickiness, as measured by a texture analyzer, the composition having to have a sufficient level of stickiness so as not to crumble, but not too high to be pleasant to use and to be able to be prepared under good conditions, in particular in an extrusion device,

[0133] - pH: the measurement is made with a pH meter after diluting 1 g of the composition in 100 g of water, the objective being to verify that the pH corresponds to the physiological pH of the skin.

[0134] For this purpose, the following operating protocols are implemented.

[0135] For the evaluation of hardness and tack, a TA.XTpIus texture analyzer is used, with a penetration and withdrawal speed of 1 mm / s, a trigger force of 5 g, a distance of 8 mm and a Needle P / P2N needle. The composition is fixed on the table of the texturometer, and the following are measured: the penetration force of the needle (hardness measurement) and the exit force of the needle (tackiness evaluation). The results are expressed in grams.

[0136] To assess the foam height, a 250 ml graduated cylinder, with an external diameter of 38.9 cm and an internal diameter of 36 cm, with a stopper, is used. 0.5 g of the composition is placed in this cylinder and demineralized water is added to make up to 50 ml. The cylinder is stoppered and then shaken vigorously.

[0137] 10 times. The foam height is read, and is expressed in mm.

[0138] The approximate naturalness index of each of the compositions is also determined, according to the calculation method of the ISO 16128:2017 standard.

[0139] The results obtained are shown in Table 3 below.

[0140] Table 3 - Characteristics of the compositions

[0141] Naturalness index: + indicates an index less than or equal to 80%; ++ indicates an index greater than 80% and less than 90%; and +++ indicates an index greater than or equal to 90%

[0142] Foam height: + indicates a height less than or equal to 60 mm; ++ indicates a height greater than 60 mm and less than 95 mm; and +++ indicates a height greater than or equal to 95 mm

[0143] The comparative compositions Comp5 and Comp8, comprising only sodium cocoyl isethionate as a surfactant, show a very good foam height, as expected, but at the expense of the total naturalness of these compositions which is less than 80%, with the same ingredients. Furthermore, the pH of these compositions appears a little low (close to the low range of the physiological pH of the skin).

[0144] Furthermore, it is observed that the compositions in accordance with the invention C1, C2 and C3 all have a foam height:

[0145] - as important, or even more so, than that of the comparative compositions Comp5 and Comp8, based on sodium cocoyl isethionate alone as surfactant and of otherwise comparable constitution, with equal total content of surfactant(s),

[0146] - and significantly superior to those of the comparative compositions Comp4, Comp6 and Comp7, which have comparable naturalness indices of 85% or more.

[0147] The combination of decyl glucoside with sodium cocoyl isethionate thus increases the naturalness index of the composition, without being detrimental to the foaming power of the composition. An even higher naturalness index, greater than or equal to 90%, can be obtained without degradation of the foaming power, by incorporating sodium myristoyl glutamate into the composition, replacing part of the sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0148] The presence of a conditioner such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate in the composition according to the invention C2 is advantageously not detrimental to the foaming power of the composition. On the contrary, when such an ingredient is contained in the comparative compositions, it adversely impacts the foaming power (10 mm reduction in the foam height for the composition Comp8 compared to Comp5, and for the composition Comp7 compared to Comp4). Thus, a conditioning agent can be included in the composition according to the invention, without prejudice to its foaming power. Such a characteristic proves to be particularly advantageous, because it makes it possible to form compositions with improved sensory properties without loss of foaming efficiency.

[0149] The hardness and adhesive power are entirely satisfactory for all the compositions according to the invention C1 to C3. These compositions have a hardness and adhesive power ensuring both that they do not crumble and are neither too soft nor too sticky, so that they are practical and pleasant to use and can be shaped easily, in particular in an extrusion device. They also have a beautiful aesthetic appearance and a homogeneous texture.

[0150] 3 / Influence of the consistency agent on the foaming power

[0151] A composition in accordance with the invention C9 is described in Table 4 below. This composition differs from composition C1 in accordance with the invention described above, and the composition of which is recalled in Table 4, only in that the ratio of fatty alcohol(s) (INCI name “Behenyl alcohol”) to fatty acid(s) (INCI name: “Stearic acid / palmitic acid”) (consistency agents) is reversed.

[0152] The foam height obtained for each of these compositions is also indicated in Table 4.

[0153] Table 4 - Foam height obtained for compositions in accordance with the invention differing by the combination of consistency agents

[0154] Foam height: ++ indicates a height greater than 60 mm and less than 95 mm; and +++ indicates a height greater than or equal to 95 mm. As can be seen, the foaming power is optimized by the presence of a fatty alcohol in the majority quantity among the consistency agents. When the quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than the quantity of fatty acid, as in composition C1, the foaming power is particularly high. When the quantity of fatty alcohol is less than the quantity of fatty acid, as in composition C9, the foaming power remains satisfactory, while being lower. 4 / Examples of hair compositions according to the invention

[0155] Solid cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention, C11, C12 and C13, particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair, are described in Table 5. This table also includes the foam height measured for each according to the protocol of Example 2.

[0156] Table 5 - Solid cosmetic hair compositions in accordance with the invention - +++ indicates a foam height greater than or equal to 95 mm These three compositions all combine a high degree of naturalness and strong foaming power.

[0157] 5 / Sensory profiles of a composition according to the invention and of a commercial syndet based on isethionate

[0158] Two compositions are tested in this example: a composition C10 in accordance with the invention for the hygiene and care of the skin of the body and face, and a commercial solid composition Comp14, not in accordance with the invention, solid facial cleanser with hibiscus for dry and sensitive skin. The aim of this test is to compare the sensory characteristics of these two compositions.

[0159] Composition C10 in accordance with the invention is described in Table 6 below:

[0160] Table 6 - Composition C14 in accordance with the invention

[0161] For the commercial solid composition Comp14, not in accordance with the invention, the list of ingredients as indicated on the packaging is as follows (INCI names): sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, palmitic acid, Cocos nucifera oil, A vena sativa kernel flour, aqua, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower powder, Helianthus annuus seed oil, decyl glucoside, Lavandula hybrida oil, Arnica montana flower extract, tocopherol, geraniol, limonene, linalool.

[0162] Sodium cocoyl isethionate is the major ingredient in this composition, its weight content in the composition being higher than that of the consistency agents stearic acid and palmitic acid.

[0163] The evaluation of the sensory profile of the compositions is carried out monadic by 15 volunteers trained in the sensory technique for topical products, and aims to qualify:

[0164] - on the one hand the foaming power when applying the product (phase 1), (the product is then rinsed), - and on the other hand the skin finish 15 minutes after rinsing (phase 2).

[0165] The tests are carried out in a room with controlled lighting, temperature and humidity. Rinsing is carried out at a regular flow rate with water at 37°C. Different criteria are evaluated and are detailed in Table 7 below.

[0166] Table 7 - description of the criteria assessed

[0167] A computer questionnaire presents unstructured analog measurement scales from 0 to 100, for each of the criteria on the computer screen. The results of the assessment are summarized in Table 8 below.

[0168] Table 8 - Sensory evaluation results - ** indicates a significant difference

[0169] It is observed that significant differences (**) are obtained when applying the compositions. The composition according to the invention C10 allows for faster foam start-up, the foam is more abundant and contains more bubbles, significantly compared to the commercial composition Comp14.

[0170] It should be noted that the sensory analysis results of these two compositions are, however, close regarding the skin rendering characteristics 15 minutes after rinsing the developed composition. Thus, the improvements in terms of foam were not obtained to the detriment of the other sensory criteria presented above.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Solid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains: - 30 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of consistency agent(s), - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines, - at least one anionic surfactant chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts and sulfosuccinic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts being less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total content of surfactants in said composition being between 10 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in that said composition: - contains less than 8% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, - and is free from gelling agent or contains less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of gelling agent(s).

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which at least one of said consistency agents is contained in the composition in a content greater than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, further containing at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

4. Composition according to claim 3, in which the acyl group of said at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts is a lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl group.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which said at least one non-ionic surfactant is octyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside or decyl glucoside.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which said at least one amphoteric surfactant other than amidopropyl betaines is coco betaine, lauryl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate or disodium cocoamphodiacetate.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, containing, as surfactants, only: - one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, - one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from isethionic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts, - and, optionally, one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids and their cosmetically acceptable salts.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl glucosides in which the alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) other than amidopropyl betaines is between 1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, containing one or more consistency agents chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and hydrogenated castor oil.

10. Composition according to claim 9, containing at least one consistency agent chosen from C16-C22 fatty alcohols.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, free from anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate and / or paraffin group.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, containing at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from fillers, emollients, conditioning agents, stabilizers, perfumes, pigments, colorants and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to claim 12, comprising at least one filler chosen from kaolin, maltodextrin, starches, celluloses, calcium carbonate and their mixtures.

14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, comprising a total quantity of filler(s) of between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further containing an exfoliating agent.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent chosen from hyaluronic acid, oat sap, helichrysum extracts, helichrysum essential oils, meadowfoam oil, oat seedlings, flower acids, Garcinia extracts, milk thistle oil, niacinamide, Edelweiss extracts, cinchona extracts, caffeine, peony extracts, mango butter and citron extracts.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, packaged in the form of a bar, pebble, stick or ball.

18. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 for washing and / or caring for the skin and / or hair.

19. Use according to claim 18, for washing and / or caring for sensitive skin.

20. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the hygiene and / or care of the skin and / or hair, using a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, comprising successive steps consisting of: - wet the said composition with water, - develop foam, - apply said foam to the skin and / or hair, - and rinse.