Retinol-containing cosmetic preparation with good skin compatibility

Abstract

A substance combination of retinol and / or derivatives thereof with at least two substances selected from the group consisting of thickeners, of natural, in particular plant, origin, lipids, skin-care substances, hyaluronic acid and / or bakuchiol, and preferably a substance which stabilises the preparation, enables a topically applicable, in particular cosmetic or dermatological preparation, to be provided which offers balanced skin compatibility, combined with good effectiveness and good care properties, improved elasticity and / or resilience of the skin and strengthened regeneration of the skin.

Description

[0001] Retinol-containing cosmetic preparation with good skin tolerance

[0002] The present invention relates to topically applicable, in particular cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising a substance combination of retinol with at least two substances selected from the group consisting of thickeners, natural, in particular of plant origin, lipids, skin care substances, hyaluronic acid and / or bakuchiol.

[0003] The preparations are free from acrylates, especially carbomers, and free from BHT and, advantageously, free from EDTA.

[0004] Retinol, also known as vitamin A, is known for its anti-aging effects and is therefore often used in cosmetic care products. It stimulates cell renewal and supports the body's own collagen production.

[0005] However, retinol is also a light- and oxidation-sensitive active ingredient that is difficult to stabilize. It is also known that retinol is prone to intolerance at higher concentrations and sometimes in combination with light.

[0006] The prior art EP 4076680 A1 describes cosmetic preparations comprising retinol, di-t-butylpentaerythrityltetrahydroxycinnamic acid ester and ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt (EDDS).

[0007] For example, WO 96 / 07396 A1 proposes the stabilization of retinol in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by using at least one fat-soluble antioxidant active ingredient and / or at least one sequestering agent. Butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) is mentioned as an example of an antioxidant active ingredient. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives are also mentioned as sequestering agents.

[0008] There are a variety of cosmetic products on the market that contain retinol in combination with various active ingredients, such as Typology Lab 1026, which contains retinol and hyaluronic acid, or Hollywood Skin Instant Plumbing & Smoothing Lip Mask with retinol and hyaluronic acid. Derma E's Brigthen & Co night cream contains sodium hyaluronate in addition to vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and retinol.

[0009] In addition to the problems associated with stabilizing retinol in cosmetic preparations and the associated side effects, such as odor and color changes, it is important to improve the skin compatibility of the preparations. It is desirable to provide a retinol-containing preparation that offers a balanced combination of efficacy, care, and skin compatibility.

[0010] The preparation according to the invention comprises retinol and / or derivatives thereof and at least two further substances selected from the group consisting of a) one or more thickeners of natural, in particular plant, origin, b) one or more lipids, c) one or more skin care substances, d) hyaluronic acid or salts thereof and / or e) bakuchiol.

[0011] The preparation according to the invention is also free of acrylates, especially carbomers, and free of BHT. Preferably, the preparation is free of EDTA.

[0012] Advantageously, in addition to retinol, the preparation comprises at least three further substances selected from groups a) to e), in particular four, advantageously at least one substance each from groups a) to e).

[0013] This means that the preparation according to the invention comprises, in addition to retinol, at least 2, preferably at least 3, in particular 4 and advantageously at least 5 further substances, each selected from a substance from group a) to e).

[0014] This also means that in the embodiment with two or three or four or five additional substances, these are each selected from different groups.

[0015] For example, the preparation according to the invention comprises, in addition to retinol, retinol and / or derivatives thereof, a substance from group a, e.g. xanthan gum, a substance from group b, e.g. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, a substance from group c, e.g. panthenol, as well as sodium hyaluronate (d) and bakuchiol (e).

[0016] Retinol and / or its derivatives are advantageously used in a proportion of up to a maximum of 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular between 0.2 and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0017] In addition to or instead of retinol, derivatives thereof can also be used according to the invention. Retinol derivatives are, in particular, retinol esters, such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, and / or retinyl linoleate (vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A lineolate, vitamin A propionate).

[0018] Retinol and / or its derivatives can also be advantageously encapsulated.

[0019] The Phyto Vec process uses chlorophyll to encapsulate sensitive active ingredients, including retinol (Phyt Vec Vitamin A).

[0020] As skin care substances, one or more substances are advantageously selected from the group consisting of panthenol, evening primrose oil, witch hazel, aloe vera, echinacea, chamomile, linoleic acid, vitamin K, urea, pentylene glycol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol (Symsitive), liccochalcone, in particular liccochalcone A, CALENDULA OFFICINALIS EXTRACT, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid, glycine soja germ extract, creatine, magnolia officinalis bark extract, origanum majorana leaf extract powder, ceramide, thiamidol, N-acetylhydroxyproline (NaHP), hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinal, niacinamide, dehydromyricetin, tocopherol, hydroxyacetophenone, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, ascorbic acid, as well as vitamin C derivatives: 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and / or Q10.

[0021] Particularly preferred is the addition of one or more active ingredients selected from the group Hydroxyacetophenone, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Q10 and / or Thiamidol

[0022] Preferably, the proportion of skin care substances in the preparation is in the range from 1 to 20 wt.%, preferably between 2 and 15 wt.%, in particular between 3 and 12 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0023] Bakuchiol is a meroterpene of the terpenophenol class. Bakuchiol has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties.

[0024] Although it has no structural similarity to retinol, bakuchiol shows a functional analogy to retinol through similar regulation of gene expression between retinol and bakuchiol. In 2018, a randomized, double-blind study with 44 volunteers showed that bakuchiol was comparable to retinol in its efficacy against photoaging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation), but bakuchiol had better skin tolerance.

[0025] Bakuchiol is advantageously used in a proportion of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, in particular between 0.2 and 1 wt.%, advantageously between 0.01 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0026] Als Lipide werden vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere Lipide aus der Gruppe gebildet aus Dibutyl Adipate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Paraffinum Liquidum, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Isohexadecane, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Decyl Oleate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isopropyl Isostearate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate / lsopropyl Myristate, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Jojobaöl, Kokosöl, Isopropylpalmitat, Isododekan, Mandelöl (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Sonnenblumenöl (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Coco-Caprylate / Caprate und Butyrospermum Parkii Butter gewählt.The proportion of one or more lipids is advantageously chosen in the range from 5 wt.% to 30 wt.%, preferably in the range from 8 wt.% to 25 wt.%, particularly preferably in the range from 10 wt.% to 15 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0027] Hyaluronic acid (also known as hyaluronan, abbreviated HA, CAS: 9004-61-9) is a glycosaminoglycan that is an important component of connective tissue. HA is characterized by a disaccharide repeating unit according to the following structure.

[0028] HA is a linear, acidic polysaccharide consisting of numerous alternating disaccharide units of 1,3-glycosidically linked N-acetyl-ß-D-glucosamine (GlcNAc) and ß-D-glucuronic acid (GlcA) molecules. Each of the disaccharide units is linked to the next by a ß(1-4) bond. The number of basic units can reach more than 10,000, with a molecular mass of 4 million Daltons. Due to its hydrophilic acid groups and hydroxy groups, HA has the ability to form numerous hydrogen bonds, through which hydration ions can be added, making it homogeneously miscible with water. In aqueous solution, HA is able to bind increasing amounts of water by increasing the average chain distance, as the negative charges cause repulsion between closely spaced chain segments.Under physiological conditions, the carboxyl groups of HA are virtually completely dissociated and form a polyanionic compound. Hyaluronic acid is generally referred to, regardless of whether HA itself or its salts are meant. Due to its viscoelastic properties and biocompatibility, HA has therapeutic significance as an injection solution in ophthalmology, orthopedics, and cosmetic surgery.

[0029] Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin. Two forms of hyaluronic acid are used in cosmetic products: a short-chain and a long-chain form. Short-chain hyaluronic acid penetrates the upper layer of the skin and influences the internal moisture balance. Long-chain hyaluronic acid, on the other hand, is said to have a plumping effect on the skin. It effectively binds moisture in the upper layer of the skin. Its moisture-binding effect results from the fact that it gradually releases its hydration layer, thus remaining on the skin over a long period of time. Other functions of HA include supplying connective tissue and skin with moisture and nutrients.

[0030] The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid is also used as a moisturizer in the production of cosmetic products (Römpp online Lexikon Version 2.5, 2004).

[0031] Hyaluronic acid is commercially available in a cross-linked state (e.g. Hylaform@, a cross-linked hyaluronic acid from Biomatrix, NJ, USA; for production see also US-A-4 713 448, US-A-4 605 691, APC@ from Fidia, lncert@ from Anika Therapeutics, interge) from LifeCore or Restylane@ from Q-Med).

[0032] Hyaluronic acid and / or hyaluronic acid salt is preferably used in a proportion in the range of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, in particular in the range of 0.05 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1 wt.%, advantageously 0.15 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0033] Surprisingly, it was found that hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate significantly reduces the skin irritation potential of retinol. Therefore, the combination of retinol and hyaluronic acid is ideal for use in the present invention.

[0034] The preparations are free of acrylates, especially carbomers, BHT, and / or EDTA. "Free from" means that their content is less than 0.1% by weight, in case one or more substances may still be present due to contamination or contamination.

[0035] The preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more thickeners of natural, particularly plant, origin. No acrylate compounds are used as thickeners according to the invention.

[0036] Thickeners increase the viscosity and thus reduce the flowability of liquids, making them more viscous. The natural cosmetics industry already uses natural or modified natural thickeners such as xanthan gum, guar gum, or cellulose derivatives, which are preferred according to the invention.

[0037] According to the invention, one or more thickeners are selected from the group consisting of starch, gelatin, casein, konjac root flour, cellulose, xanthan, xanthan gum, algin, scleroglucan, gellan, gellan gum, highly acylated gellan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, pectin, acacia senegal gum, carrageenan and / or guar gum.

[0038] Thickeners are particularly advantageously selected from the group of thickeners of plant origin. Thickeners are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, gellan gum, highly acylated gellan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, acacia Senegal gum, and / or hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0039] Organic natural thickeners, such as starch, gelatin, casein or konjac root flour (glucomannans), as well as natural substances, especially celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcelluloses (CMC, E 466), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose are advantageous to choose.

[0040] These natural thickeners offer a more skin-friendly alternative to synthetic thickeners and thus fulfill the desire for balanced skin tolerance.

[0041] The proportion of one or more thickeners is advantageously chosen in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.4 to 2% by weight, advantageously in the range from 0.3 to 1.7% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

[0042] Stabilizers are another preferred additive. These substances serve to stabilize the preparation. Stabilization can be achieved by using di-t-butylpentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compounds, such as those sold by BASF under the name Tinogard TT; ethylenediamine disuccinate; trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, such as Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals; tocopherol; or sodium phytate.

[0043] Di-t-butyl-pentaerythrityl-tetrahydroxycinnamate (pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tinogard TT) and / or sodium phytate are preferably used.

[0044] The preparation according to the invention may also contain other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, provided they are not excluded by the invention.

[0045] According to the invention, the preparations are used for the care, treatment or prevention of skin aging, for improving the elasticity and / or tone of the skin, for firming the skin and / or for regenerating / strengthening the skin.

[0046] The substance combinations according to the invention of retinol with at least two substances selected from the group consisting of thickeners, natural, in particular plant-based, lipids, skin-care substances, hyaluronic acid, and / or bakuchiol enable the provision of a topically applicable, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, preparation that exhibits balanced skin compatibility while simultaneously offering good efficacy and good care properties. The preparation according to the invention leads to an improvement in the elasticity and / or tone of the skin and to a strengthening of skin regeneration. Preparations are advantageously provided which, in addition to retinol, comprise bakuchiol, sodium hyaluronate, vitamin A palmitate, at least one plant-based thickener, and panthenol.

[0047] Preparations containing retinol, bakuchiol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and a plant-based thickener are also beneficial.

[0048] Likewise, a preparation according to the invention is to be formulated which, in addition to retinol, only contains panthenol and vitamin A palmitate.

[0049] Example 1

[0050] O / W emulsion (wt% based on the total mass of the preparation)

[0051] Example 2 Serum

[0052]

[0053] Example 3 Serum

Claims

Patent claims 1 . Cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising Retinol and / or derivatives thereof, in particular retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and / or retinyl linoleate, and at least two substances selected from the groups consisting of a) one or more thickeners of natural, in particular plant origin, b) one or more lipids, c) one or more skin care substances, d) hyaluronic acid or salts thereof and / or e) bakuchiol, wherein the proportion of acrylates and BHT is each less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of organic natural, in particular vegetable thickeners are selected as thickeners.

3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of starch, gelatin, casein, konjac root flour, cellulose, xanthan, xanthan gum, algin, scleroglucan, gellan, gellan gum, highly acylated gelan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, acacia senegal gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, pectin, carrageenan, guar gum are selected as thickeners.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, gellan gum, highly acylated gellan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, acacia senegal gum and / or hydroxypropyl starch phosphate are selected as thickeners.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more thickeners is selected in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.4 to 2% by weight, advantageously in the range from 0.3 to 1.7% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipids comprise one or more substances from the group consisting of Dibutyl Adipate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Paraffinum Liquidum, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Isohexadecane, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Decyl Oleate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isopropyl Isostearate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate+lsopropyl Myristate, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isododecane, Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Coco-Caprylate / Caprate and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter can be chosen.

7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more lipids is selected in the range from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably in the range from 8% by weight to 25% by weight, particularly preferably in the range from 10% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as skin care substances one or more substances from the group formed by panthenol, evening primrose oil, witch hazel, aloe vera, echinacea, chamomile, linoleic acid, vitamin K, urea, pentylene glycol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol (Symsitive), liccochalcone, in particular liccochalcone A, CALENDULA OFFICINALIS EXTRACT, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid, glycine soja germ extract, creatine, magnolia officinalis bark extract, origanum majorana leaf extract powder, ceramide, thiamidol, N-acetylhydroxyproline (NaHP), hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinal, niacinamide, dehydromyricetin, tocopherol, hydroxyacetophenone, glycyrrhiza nif lata root extract, ascorbic acid, and vitamin C Derivatives, in particular 3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and / or Q10 can be chosen.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more skin care substances is selected in the range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, in particular between 3 and 12% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of bakuchiol is selected in the range from 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular between 0.2 and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. 11 . Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of hyaluronic acid and / or hyaluronic acid salt is selected in the range from 0.01 to 3% by weight, in particular in the range from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.1 to 1% by weight, advantageously 0.15 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of retinol and / or derivatives thereof, preferably retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and / or retinyl linoleate, is selected in the range up to a maximum of 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular between 0.2 and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

13. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one substance stabilizing the preparation is contained, in particular selected from the group di-t-butyl-pentaerythrityl-tetrahydroxycinnamate, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, tocopherol and / or sodium phytates, advantageously only di-t-butyl-pentaerythrityl-tetrahydroxycinnamate and / or sodium phytates.

14. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition to retinol, bakuchiol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, di-t-butyl-pentaerythrityl-tetrahydroxycinnamate and / or sodium phytate, at least one vegetable thickener is contained.

15. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, comprising retinol and / or derivatives thereof and at least three substances from the groups consisting of a) one or more thickeners of natural, in particular plant, origin, b) one or more lipids, c) one or more skin-care substances, d) hyaluronic acid or its salts, e) bakuchiol, and f) di-t-butyl-pentaerythrityl-tetrahydroxycinnamate and / or sodium phytates, wherein the proportion of acrylates and BHT is less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

16. Use of the preparation according to any one of the preceding claims for improving the elasticity and / or tone of the skin and / or for regenerating / strengthening the skin.

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