Anhydrous solid composition comprising a combination of particular anionic surfactants and at least one cationic polysaccharide
An anhydrous solid composition with sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, fillers, and cationic polysaccharides addresses dosing and foaming issues in keratin fiber washing, ensuring easy handling, quick foam generation, and superior cosmetic performance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2020012598
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-25
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-12-03
AI Technical Summary
Conventional liquid keratin fiber washing products face challenges such as difficulty in dosing, leakage, and inadequate foaming, while solid formulations like granules or powders suffer from volatility, disintegration issues, and poor cosmetic performance, particularly in terms of suppleness, feel, softness, shine, and detangling.
An anhydrous solid composition comprising a combination of sulfonate and carboxylate anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, fillers, and cationic polysaccharides, which provides improved cohesion, easy handling, and quick foaming, while maintaining good cosmetic properties.
The composition allows for easy dosing, quick disintegration, abundant and creamy foam generation, and quick rinsing without residue, offering enhanced cosmetic benefits like softness, suppleness, and improved detangling.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Anhydrous solid composition comprising a combination of particular anionic surfactants and at least one cationic polysaccharide
[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous solid composition intended in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, and which comprises a particular combination of at least two anionic surfactants, one of which is of the sulfonate type and the other of the carboxylate type, in the presence of at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0002] The invention also relates to a packaging article containing said anhydrous solid composition, as well as methods for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, using said anhydrous solid composition or said packaging article.
[0003] The invention further relates to the use of said anhydrous solid composition or said conditioning article for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0004] In the field of hair hygiene, keratin fiber washing products are generally intended to clean said fibers while providing them with good cosmetic properties. Conventional products, such as shampoos, are most often in a more or less thickened liquid form. Due to their liquid texture, these products can however have various drawbacks, and in particular prove to be difficult to dose.
[0005] Indeed, the more liquid they are, the more they tend to escape between the fingers, making their dosage difficult and leading to waste. These products can also leak out of their packaging, which can cause inconvenience to the consumer when these products come into contact with clothing or objects, for example when moving.
[0006] In order to modify the texture of these products, and in particular to make it more compact, thickeners are generally used. The addition of these compounds, however, is often to the detriment of the cosmetic effects of the compositions. The use of these thicker compositions also requires a lot of rinsing water in order to eliminate the excess product on the fibers. However, in many countries where access to water is restricted, the rinsing time and consequently the quantity of water necessary to properly rinse the product are key indicators of the usability of a composition.
[0007] In order to overcome some of these problems, new solid cosmetic formulations, in particular shampoos in the form of granules or solid powder, have been developed. However, these new formulations are not always entirely satisfactory. Those in the form of loose powder can in fact pose problems of volatility, gripping and / or dosage, while those in the form of agglomerates, such as granules for example, can tend to disintegrate or disintegrate with difficulty in the presence of water. Thus, the latter do not always allow rapid foaming and / or satisfactory abundance of foam to be obtained, adversely affecting their use and their spreading on the keratin fibers. They can also be difficult to remove when rinsing and sometimes even leave unpleasant residues on the fibers for the consumer.These formulations may also not provide complete satisfaction in terms of cosmetic performance, particularly in terms of suppleness, feel, softness, shine and detangling.
[0008] Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition in solid form having an improved environmental profile, i.e. requiring little water throughout its use. The composition must not only be easily graspable, disintegrate easily and have good foaming properties, particularly in terms of start-up, abundance and density, but it must also be quick to rinse without leaving residue on the keratin fibres.
[0009] The composition must also have good detergent power while providing satisfactory cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of flexibility, feel, softness, shine and detangling.
[0010] It has now been discovered that an anhydrous solid composition comprising a particular combination of at least two anionic surfactants, one of which is of the sulfonate type and the other of the carboxylate type, in the presence of an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, a filler and a cationic polysaccharide, makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to propose a composition in solid form combining good detergent power with improved foam properties, without requiring large quantities of water.
[0011] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous solid composition comprising: (i) one or more sulfonate anionic surfactants, (ii) one or more carboxylate anionic surfactants, (iii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iv) one or more fillers, and (v) one or more cationic polysaccharides different from the charge(s) (iv).
[0012] The particular association of the compounds of the invention makes it possible to obtain a com solid position easy to collect, handle and dose. Indeed, the composition thus obtained has a cohesion or granulation such that the gripping and dosing properties are improved. The composition can then be packaged in single-dose form, a particularly interesting form for example when traveling or practicing a sport (lighter bags, limiting the risk of leaks, reducing waste).
[0013] This composition also disintegrates quickly on contact with water and makes it possible to easily and quickly obtain a firm, creamy and abundant foam, of a quality comparable to the foam obtained with a conventional liquid shampoo composition. This foam can then be distributed easily and evenly over the keratin fibers.
[0014] Furthermore, the composition of the invention rinses quickly without leaving unpleasant residues on the fibers and gives them a natural and clean feel after rinsing. The fibers treated with the composition of the invention also have good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of softness, suppleness, and feel. They are also well individualized and thus easier to untangle.
[0015] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of an anhydrous solid composition as defined above; the anhydrous solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.
[0016] The present invention further relates to the use of an anhydrous solid composition as defined above for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a packaging article comprising - an envelope defining at least one cavity, the envelope comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds; - an anhydrous solid composition as defined above; it being understood that the anhydrous solid composition is located in one of the cavities defined by the envelope.
[0018] This packaging article makes it possible in particular to solve the problems of dosing the anhydrous solid composition. It also facilitates its storage and transport. In particular, the packaging article of the invention offers better protection of the composition against humidity.
[0019] The packaging article may also make it possible to obtain a composition final washing and / or conditioning of keratin fibers thickened in the hand, which can be presented in the form of a cream. It can also act as a foam booster. Indeed, the volume of foam obtained after dilution of the conditioning article can be greater than the volume of foam obtained after dissolving the anhydrous solid composition alone.
[0020] The present invention further relates to the use of a conditioning article as defined above for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of implementing a conditioning article as defined above.
[0022] Preferably, said cosmetic treatment method comprises the following steps: (i) mixing the packaging article in a composition capable of dissolving, in whole or in part, the envelope of said packaging article, ii) applying the composition obtained in step i) to the keratin fibers, iii) possibly leave to stand, iv) rinsing said keratin fibers, and v) optionally drying said keratin fibers.
[0023] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.
[0024] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0025] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0026] By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0027] In particular, the composition does not include water added during its preparation, any residual water possibly present being able to come from the raw materials used during the preparation.
[0028] The anhydrous solid composition according to the invention may be in the form of powder, paste, particles (for example spherical particles such as small beads or granules), compressed tablet, stick or loaf. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of powder or particles.
[0029] By "powder" is meant a composition in powder form, preferably essentially free of dust (or fine particles). In other words, the particle size distribution of the particles is such that the weight ratio of particles which have a size less than or equal to 50 micrometers (fines ratio), preferably less than or equal to 45 micrometers (fines ratio), is advantageously less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the particles (particle size evaluated using a RETSCH AS 200 DIGIT granulometer; Oscillation height: 1.25 mm / sieving time: 5 minutes).
[0030] By "paste" is meant a composition having a viscosity greater than 5 poises (0.5Pa.s), and preferably greater than 10 poises (IPa.s), measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s 1; this viscosity can be determined using a Coneplan rheometer.
[0031] By "particles" is meant small fractionated objects formed of solid particles aggregated together, of variable shapes and sizes. They may be of regular or irregular shape. In particular, they may be spherical (such as granules, pellets, balls), square, rectangular, or elongated such as rods. Spherical particles are particularly preferred.
[0032] Advantageously, the size of the powders or particles is, in its largest dimension, between 45 pm and 5 mm, preferably between 50 pm and 2 mm, more preferably between 50 pm and 1 mm, and better still between 60 pm and 600 pm.
[0033] When the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention is not in the form of powder or particles, it advantageously has a penetration force at 25°C and 1 atm, greater than or equal to 200 g, preferably greater than or equal to 300 g, more preferably greater than or equal to 400 g, and better still greater than or equal to 500 g. The penetration force is determined by penetrometry. The texture analysis measurements are carried out at 25°C using a Stable Micro Systems TA.XT Plus texturometer. The penetrometry experiments are carried out with a metal rod equipped with a screwed tip, said tip being a 2 mm P / 2N needle for the upper part, connected to the measuring head. The piston sinks into the sample at a constant speed of 1 mm / s, to a height of 5 mm. The force exerted on the piston is recorded and the average value of the force is calculated.
[0034] The anhydrous solid composition according to the invention may be in the form of a compressed anhydrous solid composition, in particular using a manual or mechanical press. Preferably, the hardness of the compressed anhydrous solid composition is between 10 and 300 N, more preferably between 15 and 200 N, and better still between 15 and 100 N.
[0035] The density of the anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention is preferably between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.2 and 0.8, and better still between 0.3 and 0.6.
[0036] A determined quantity (mass, m) of powder is placed in a graduated cylinder. The cylinder is then tapped 2500 times automatically. The volume (v) thus obtained is read from the cylinder and the density (d) is then determined according to the formula d=m / v.
[0037] Anionic sulfonate surfactants
[0038] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants of sulfonate type.
[0039] By "sulfonate type anionic surfactant" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an anionic surfactant comprising one or more sulfonic or sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3), which may optionally comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO), and not comprising sulfate functions.
[0040] Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, sulfolaurates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0041] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from N-acyltaurates, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, acylisethionates, and sulfolaurates such as disodium 2-sulfolaurate, as well as their salts and their mixtures.
[0042] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type may advantageously be chosen from the compounds of formula (I): RrCOX-R2-SO3M (I) formula (I), in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, - X represents an oxygen atom or a -N(CH3)- or -NH- group, preferably an oxygen atom, - R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - M denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal or an ion from an organic amine.
[0043] The anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type, and in particular those of formula (I) as defined above, may be used in salified or non-salified form.
[0044] As salt, it is possible in particular to use alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium.
[0045] As amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0046] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0047] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from acyl isethionates and their mixtures, and more preferably from acyl(C8-C30) isethionates and their mixtures, used in the form of salts, and better still in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0048] As examples of particularly preferred acyl(C8-C3o)isethionates, mention may in particular be made of cocoylisethionates and lauroyl methyl isethionates, in particular in the form of sodium salts.
[0049] The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type, present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight, and better still from 8 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] In a preferred variant of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from acyl(C8-C30)isethionates and mixtures thereof, and the total content of the acyl(C8-C30)isethionate(s), present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight, and better still from 8 to 16% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] Anionic surfactants of the carboxylate type
[0052] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more anionic surfactants of carboxylate type.
[0053] By "carboxylate type anionic surfactant" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO), and not comprising a sulfonic or sulfonate (-SO3H or -SO3) and not containing a sulfate function.
[0054] Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from acyllactates, N-acylglycinates, N-acylsarcosinates, and N-acylglutamates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl glucose carboxylates, alkyl glucoside tartrates, alkyl glucoside citrates, acyl or alkyl groups preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; as well as the non-salified forms of these compounds.
[0055] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type may advantageously be chosen from the compounds of formula (II): R-(OCH2CH2)riW-(CHYl)p-COOX (II) formula (II), in which: - Yi denotes a hydrogen atom, a (CH2)qCOOX group or a hydroxy group; - W denotes an oxygen atom, a (O-Glu-O)r-(COCH(Y2 )-(C(OH)COOX)t)s group or a CO-NR3 group; - Y2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group; - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - X denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine; - R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; - Glu denotes a divalent radical derived from glucopyranose with the removal of 2 hydroxyl groups; - p is equal to 0 or 1; - q denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 50; - r denotes a number from 1 to 10; - s is equal to 0 or 1; -1 is equal to 0 or 1.
[0056] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type (ii) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) for which: - Yi denotes a hydrogen atom or a (CH2)qCOOX group; - W denotes a CO-NRi group; - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - X denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine; - R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; - p is equal to 0 or 1, preferably 0; - q denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 50.
[0057] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) for which: - n=0, p=l, Yi=H, W=C0NH (N-acylglycinates); - n=0, p=l, W= CON(CH3) and Yi = H (N-acylsarcosinates); and - n=0, p=l, W =CONH and Y! = CH2CH2COOX (N-acylglutamates).
[0058] The anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type, and in particular those of formula (II) as defined above, may be used in salified or non-salified form.
[0059] As salt, it is possible in particular to use alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium.
[0060] As amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0061] Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0062] Preferably, the anionic surfactants of carboxylate type are chosen from N-acyl(C8-C30)glutamates, and in particular stearoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates and cocoylglutamates; N-acyl(C8-C30)sarcosinates, and in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and cocoylsarcosinates; and mixtures thereof; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol salts.
[0063] In a particularly preferred manner, the anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type are chosen from N-acyl(C8-C30)glutamates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The total content of the carboxylate-type anionic surfactant(s) present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, better still from 5 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] In a preferred variant of the invention, the carboxylate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from N-acyl(C8-C30)glutamates and their mixtures, and the total content of the N-acyl(C8-C30)glutamate(s) present in the solid composition anhydrous according to the invention, preferably ranges from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, better still from 5 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] The weight ratio (R) between the total content of carboxylate type surfactant(s) (ii) and the total content of sulfonate type surfactant(s) (i), present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention, is advantageously greater than or equal to 0.6, preferably greater than or equal to 0.7, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, better still greater than or equal to 1.0, or even strictly greater than 1.0, and even better still greater than or equal to 1.1. Preferably this weight ratio (R) ranges from 0.6 to 5, more preferably from 0.7 to 4.5, better still from 0.8 to 4.0, even better still from 1.0 to 3.5, and even more preferably from 1.1 to 3.0.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment, this weight ratio (R) is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, or even strictly greater than 1, preferably this weight ratio (R) ranges from 1 to 5, more preferably from 1.5 to 3.5, and better still from 2 to 3.
[0068] Preferably, the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactant of sulfate type.
[0069] By "sulfate-type anionic surfactant" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, surfactants comprising at least one anionic group or group ionizable into an anionic group, chosen from sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0070] Thus, the following anionic surfactants are preferably not present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention: salts of alkyl sulfates, alkylamidosulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates.
[0071] By "free", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant a composition which does not contain (0%) these anionic surfactants of sulfate type or which contains less than 0.1% by weight of such surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] The total content of the anionic surfactant(s), that is to say in particular the total content of anionic surfactants of sulfonate type (i) and of anionic surfactants of carboxylate type (ii), present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, is advantageously greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably this content ranges from 15 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 40% by weight, and better still from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
[0074] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0075] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention, may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0076] Mention may in particular be made of alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C1-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidalkyl(C1-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (III) and (IV):
[0078] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;
[0079] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0080] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0081] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0082] It is also possible to use compounds of formula (V): Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra”-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of one another, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0083] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0084] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0085] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, advantageously used are alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, and better still from alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
[0087] The total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, and better still from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] The charges
[0089] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more fillers.
[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “filler” means solid mineral or organic, polymeric or non-polymeric particles.
[0091] The fillers according to the invention participate in the solubilization or disintegration of the anhydrous solid composition of the invention, in particular in the presence of water. They can also contribute to improving the cosmetic performance due to the other compounds present in the composition.
[0092] Certain fillers may also have “anti-caking” properties.
[0093] The mineral fillers may be chosen from solid salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, in particular sodium or calcium salts, in particular sodium or calcium halides, such as sodium chloride and calcium chloride; or else carbonates, in particular sodium or calcium carbonate, such as for example calcium carbonate. Mention may also be made of silicates, such as for example mica or clays, in particular kaolin.
[0094] The non-polymeric organic fillers can be chosen from monosaccharides, such as for example trehalose, sorbitol and mannitol.
[0095] The polymeric organic fillers may be chosen from polysaccharides and their mixtures. In particular, mention may be made of cyclodextrins, starches, alginates, gellans, guar gums, celluloses and wood flours. Among the polymeric organic fillers, mention may also be made of crosslinked polyvinyl pyrrolidones and polyacrylates (aquakeep for example).
[0096] Advantageously, the filler(s) present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention are chosen from polymeric organic fillers and their mixtures, preferably from cyclodextrins, starches, alginates, gellans, guar gums, celluloses, wood flours, crosslinked polyvinyl pyrrolidones, polyacrylates and their mixtures, and more preferably from starches and their mixtures.
[0097] The total content of the filler(s) present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the total content of the filler(s) present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention ranges from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 35 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the filler(s) are chosen from starches and their mixtures, and the total content of the starch(es), present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] According to this embodiment, the total content of the starch(es) present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention advantageously ranges from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 35 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] Cationic polysaccharides
[0101] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides, different from the fillers defined above.
[0102] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" means any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention do not comprise an anionic group or a group which can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0103] Cationic polysaccharides may or may not be associative.
[0104] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharides present in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures.
[0105] Among the cationic polysaccharides which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0106] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polysaccharides marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polysaccharides are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
[0107] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by National Starch Company.
[0108] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, it is also possible to use cationic associative celluloses, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, and linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0109] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, and linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0110] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI): in which: - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group, C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl group, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b, and R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group, C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl group, and Q' represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl group, C8 to C30; - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.
[0111] Preferably, in formula (VI), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl group, C8 to C30; better still C10 to C24, or even C10 to C50; in particular, the dodecyl radical (C12) may be mentioned. Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched alkyl group C1 to C4, in particular a methyl.
[0112] Preferably, in formula (VI), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl group, C8 to C30; better still C10 to C24, or even C10 to Cu; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group, C1 to C4, in particular a methyl.
[0113] Advantageously, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.
[0114] Advantageously, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.
[0115] The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
[0116] We can notably cite the polymers with INCI names: - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®, marketed by the company CRODA; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (Ci2 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL®, marketed by the company CRODA; and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.
[0117] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Poly-quatemium-67. Commercial products that may be mentioned include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.
[0118] More particularly, the polymers of formula (VI) are for example those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs (between 2 and 3 Pa.s), preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs (between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s). Typically SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs (2.5 Pa.s), SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs (2.7 Pa.s) and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs (2.8 Pa.s). SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X with a viscosity can also be used. between 1000 and 2000 cPs (between 1 and 2 Pa.s).
[0119] The cationic galactomannan gums that can be used are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR Cl62 by the company RHODIA.
[0120] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, and more preferably from cationic guar gums and their mixtures.
[0121] The total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic polysaccharides defined above.
[0123] Nonionic surfactants
[0124] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
[0125] Examples of non-ionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0126] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6 to C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C6 to C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0127] Among the non-ionic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to use alkyl(poly)glycoside non-ionic surfactants.
[0128] By “alkyl(poly)glycoside” is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmono-glycoside also called alkylglycoside in the present application, which can be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C2 to C4.
[0129] The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) used, alone or in mixture(s), in accordance with the present invention may be represented by the following formula (VII): R1O-(R2O)t(G)v (VII) formula (VII), in which: - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene group containing approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a saccharide unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and -v denotes a value from 1 to 15.
[0130] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) correspond to formula (VII) in which: - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose, -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and - R2 and v are as defined previously.
[0131] The degree of polymerization of the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), as represented for example by the index v in formula (VII) above, varies on average from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization varies more particularly from 1 to 2, and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.
[0132] The glycosidic bonds between the saccharide units are 1,6 or 1,4; and preferably 1,4.
[0133] The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactants that can be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, notably represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK, or the products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB.
[0134] As non-ionic surfactant, it is preferable to use the compounds with the INCI name caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside and / or arachidyl glucoside. The compound with the INCI name cetearyl glucoside is particularly preferred.
[0135] The total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s), when present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The anhydrous solid composition according to the invention may preferably comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides and their mixtures, and more preferably one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(poly)glucosides and their mixtures. According to this embodiment, the total content of the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s), preferably of the alkyl(poly)glucoside(s), preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] The total content of surfactants present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 60% by weight, more preferably this total content ranges from 20 to 55% by weight, better still from 30 to 50%, and better still from 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] Organic solvents
[0139] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0140] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 atoms, and more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, polyols, having in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols and their mixtures.
[0141] As examples of organic solvents which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.
[0142] The organic solvent(s) that can be used according to the invention may be chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and their mixtures, preferably from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and their mixtures.
[0143] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, having in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and their mixtures, and more preferably from glycerol, propylene glycol, and their mixtures.
[0144] The total content of the organic solvent(s), when present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, is preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and better still ranges from 0.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] The anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers and mixtures thereof, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile, modified or unmodified silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents, lubricants (or anti-caking agents) and mixtures thereof.
[0146] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous solid composition of the invention may optionally comprise one or more lubricants. Such a lubricant may in particular act as an anti-caking agent, also called an anti-caking agent.
[0147] The lubricant(s) that can be used are different from the fillers and cationic polysaccharides defined above.
[0148] Among the lubricants that can be used in the anhydrous solid composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of silica, in particular anhydrous colloidal silica, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, acrylate and dimethicone copolymers, stearic acid, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearates, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate, alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates, such as, for example, magnesium, sodium and calcium carbonates, fatty acids such as stearic acid, celluloses, in particular crystalline celluloses, and their mixtures.
[0149] According to one embodiment, the lubricant(s) are advantageously chosen from metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, better still from zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof. More preferably- Initially, the lubricant is magnesium stearate.
[0150] According to another embodiment, the lubricant(s) are advantageously chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal carbonates and their mixtures, preferably from magnesium carbonate, sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate and their mixtures; and more preferably magnesium carbonate.
[0151] Preferably, when the above additional compound(s) are present in the anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, the additional compound(s) are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0152] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the anhydrous solid composition of the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0153] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, and in particular a process for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of an anhydrous solid composition as defined above; the anhydrous solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibres or after having been previously moistened with water.
[0154] The anhydrous solid composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, and preferably to wet keratin fibers.
[0155] The anhydrous solid composition, thus applied, may optionally be rinsed or not, after a possible exposure time which may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
[0156] Preferably, the anhydrous solid composition is rinsed after application.
[0157] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous solid composition is applied directly to the keratin fibers, that is to say without being previously moistened and / or disintegrated in water.
[0158] When, according to this first embodiment, the anhydrous solid composition of the invention is applied directly (i.e. without prior moistening or disintegration) to the dry keratin fibers, water may optionally be added to said fibers and then rubbed / massaged in order to solubilize / pre-emulsify said composition and form an abundant and immediate foam. The foam thus obtained may then be rinsed after a possible exposure time.
[0159] Conversely, the anhydrous solid composition of the invention can also be applied directly (i.e. without prior moistening or disintegration) to the wet keratin fibers, then massaged / rubbed to disintegrate the particles and obtain an immediate and abundant foam. The foam thus obtained can then be rinsed. after a possible exposure time.
[0160] According to another embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous solid composition is previously moistened and / or disintegrated in water before being applied to the keratin fibers. According to this embodiment, a small amount (preferably ranging from 1 to 3 g) of anhydrous solid composition is advantageously taken and solubilized with water, for example in the hand, so as to form an abundant and immediate foam. The foam thus obtained can then be applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, before being optionally rinsed with water after a possible exposure time.
[0161] The present invention also relates to the use of an anhydrous solid composition as defined above for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0162] The present invention also relates to a packaging article, preferably cosmetic, comprising: - an envelope defining at least one cavity, the envelope comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds, - an anhydrous solid composition as defined above; it being understood that the anhydrous solid composition is located in one of the cavities defined by the envelope.
[0163] By "cosmetic packaging article" is meant an article suitable for cosmetic use; in particular for use of the packaging article on keratin fibers, in particular the hair and / or on the scalp. In particular, the packaging article makes it possible to wash and / or condition keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.
[0164] Preferably, the packaging article according to the invention is water-soluble or liposoluble at a temperature less than or equal to 35°C.
[0165] Preferably, the envelope of the packaging article according to the invention is water-soluble at a temperature less than or equal to 35°C.
[0166] By "water-soluble" is meant soluble in water, in particular at a rate of at least 10 grams per liter of water, preferably at least 20 g / l, better still at least 50 g / L at a temperature less than or equal to 35°C. Thus, when water preferably having a temperature less than 35°C is added to the packaging article, the envelope will dissolve and release the anhydrous solid composition present in one of the cavities of the envelope.
[0167] By "fat-soluble" is meant soluble in a liquid fatty substance as defined below, in particular at a rate of at least 10 grams per liter of liquid fatty substance in particularly in a vegetable or mineral oil such as vaseline oil, preferably at least 20 g / l in a liquid fatty substance, better still at least 50 g / l in a fatty substance, at a temperature less than or equal to 35°C.
[0168] The term “temperature less than or equal to 35°C” means a temperature not exceeding 35°C but greater than or equal to 0°C, for example ranging from more than 1 to 35°C, preferably from 5 to 30°C, more preferably from 10 to 30°C, and better still from 15 to 25°C. It is understood that all temperatures are given at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
[0169] The packaging article may comprise one or more cavities, at least one of which contains the anhydrous solid composition as defined above. Preferably, the packaging article comprises only one cavity in which the anhydrous solid composition is contained.
[0170] Advantageously, the envelope represents from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, and better still from 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the packaging article.
[0171] Advantageously, the anhydrous solid composition as defined above represents from 80 to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 85 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 90 to 98% by weight, and better still from 92 to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the packaging article.
[0172] The weight ratio between the total weight of the anhydrous solid composition of the invention and the total weight of the envelope advantageously ranges from 80 / 20 to 99 / 1, preferably from 85 / 15 to 98 / 2, and more preferably from 90 / 10 to 97 / 3.
[0173] The envelope of the packaging article comprises one or more water-soluble and / or liposoluble compounds, preferably one or more water-soluble compounds advantageously chosen from water-soluble polymers and their mixtures.
[0174] The water-soluble polymer(s) that can be used according to the present invention contain water-soluble units in their backbones. The water-soluble units are obtained from one or more water-soluble monomers.
[0175] By "water-soluble monomer" is meant a monomer whose solubility in water is greater than or equal to 1%, preferably greater than or equal to 5% at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0176] The said water-soluble polymer(s) capable of forming the envelope are advantageously obtained from water-soluble monomers comprising at least one double bond. The latter may be chosen from cationic, anionic, non-ionic monomers and their mixtures.
[0177] As water-soluble monomers capable of being used as precursors of the water-soluble units, alone or in a mixture, the following monomers may be cited as examples, which may be in free or salified form: - (meth)acrylic acid, - styrene sulfonic acid, - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid, - vinyl phosphonic acid, - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide, - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide, - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, - maleic anhydride, - itaconic acid, - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CHOC(O)CH3, - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - dimethyldiallyl ammonium halides (chloride), - quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (MADAME), - (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides (chloride) (APTAC and MAPTAC), - methylvinylimidazolium halides (chloride), - 2-vinylpyridine and 4-vinylpyridine, - acrylonitrile, - glycidyl (meth)acrylate, - vinyl halides (chloride) and vinylidene chloride, - vinyl monomers of the following formula: H2C=C(R)-C(O)-X, in which: - R is selected from H, (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, ethyl and propyl, and - X is chosen from: - alkoxy of the -OR' type where R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by at least one halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a sulfonic group (-SO3), sulfate (SO4), phosphate (-PO4H2); hydroxy (-OH); primary amine (-NH2); secondary amine (NHR6), tertiary (-NR6R7) or quaternary (-N+R6R7R8) with R6, R7 and R8 being, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms of R' + R6 + R7 + R8 does not exceed 6; - the groups -NH2, -NHR' and -NR'R" in which R' and R" are, independently of one another, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms of R' + R" does not exceed 6, said R' and R" being optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH); sulfonic (-SO3); sulfate (SO4); phosphate (-PO4H2); primary amine (-NH2); secondary (-NHR6), tertiary (NR6R7) and / or quaternary (-N+R6R7R8) amine with R6, R7 and R8 being, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the carbon atoms of R' + R” + R6 + R7 + R8 does not exceed 6. Examples of compounds having this formula that may be mentioned are N,N-dimethylacrylamide and N,N-diethylacrylamide; and - and mixtures thereof.
[0178] As anionic monomers, mention may in particular be made of (meth)acrylic acid, acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, itaconic acid and their salts of an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium or those derived from an organic amine such as alkanolamine.
[0179] As non-ionic monomers, mention may in particular be made of (meth)acrylamide, N-vinylformamide, N-vinylacetoamide and hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, and vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CHOC(O)CH3.
[0180] The cationic monomers are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts derived from a diallylamine, and those corresponding to the following formula: H2C=C(Ri)-D-N+R2R3R4, X in which: • Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, • R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl group, • Ri represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl group or an aryl group, • D represents the following divalent motif: -(Y)n-(A)- in which: - Y represents an amide function, an ester (OC(O) or C(O)-O), a urethane or a urea, - A represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1 to C10 alkylene group, which may be substituted or interrupted by a divalent aromatic or heteroaromatic group. The alkylene groups may be interrupted by an oxygen atom, a nitrogen atom, a sulfur atom or a phosphorus atom; the alkylene may be interrupted by a ketone function, an amide, an ester (OC(O) or C(O)-O), a urethane, or a urea, - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 1, • X represents an anionic counterion, such as chloride or sulfate.
[0181] Examples of water-soluble cationic monomers that may be mentioned include the following compounds and their salts: dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyethyldimethylbenzylammonium (meth)acrylate, N-[dimethylaminopropyl](meth)-acrylamide (meth)acrylate, (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium (meth)acrylate, (meth)acrylamidopropyldimethylbenzylammonium (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminohydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (meth)acrylate, (meth)acryloyloxyhydroxypropyldimethylbenzylammonium (meth)acrylate and dimethyldiallylammonium (meth)acrylate.
[0182] Among the water-soluble polymers that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of polyhydroxyalcohol (PHA).
[0183] Preferably, the water-soluble polymers are polymerized from one or more monomers chosen from vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CHOC(O)CH3 and mixtures thereof.
[0184] The water-soluble polymers capable of forming the envelope of the packaging article may also be chosen from water-soluble polymers derived from natural products, such as polysaccharides, i.e. polymers with sugar units. These water-soluble polymers are different from the cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) present in the anhydrous solid composition.
[0185] By “sugar unit” is meant a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula Cn(H2O)ni or (CH2O)n which may optionally be modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration. The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0186] The polymers with sugar unit(s) according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic. The basic units of the polymers with sugar unit of the invention may be mono- or disaccharides.
[0187] The following native gums and their derivatives may be mentioned in particular as polymers that can be used: (a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer made from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers of which: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose) whose main constituent is glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (500,000 < M giu comannan < 2,000,000) composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with a branching every 50 or 60 units approximately; (d) microbial gums including: - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); - biosaccharide gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, fucose and D-galactose), e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (glucose polymer); - starch (polymer of glucose); - inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).
[0188] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature may be mentioned in particular. As chemical treatments, esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions may be mentioned. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.
[0189] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0190] The non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1 to C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0191] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as for example propylene oxides with guar gum, so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0192] The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0193] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0194] The guar gums modified by cationic groups which can be used more particularly according to the invention are guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums carry cationic trial-kyammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trial-kyammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made in particular of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.
[0195] According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.
[0196] These guar gums modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are for example described in patents US 3,589,578 and US 4,0131,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0197] As modified carob gum, cationic carob gum containing hydroxypropyltrimmonium groups such as Catinal CLB 200 offered by the company TOHO can be used.
[0198] The starch molecules used in the present invention may originate from any plant source of starch, in particular cereals and tubers; more particularly, they may be starches from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats, tapioca. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.
[0199] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
[0200] More specifically, these reactions can be carried out in the following way: - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (e.g. drying and cooking in a drying drum); - oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite); - crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be linked together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); - esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1 to C6 acyl (acetyl), C1 to C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.
[0201] It is possible in particular to obtain by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds monostarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(O-Am)2) or mixtures thereof; with Am meaning starch and X designating in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkali-earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
[0202] The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
[0203] Mention may in particular be made of distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
[0204] A preferred starch is a starch that has undergone at least one chemical modification such as at least one esterification.
[0205] According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
[0206] The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds of the following formulas: COOM IH HC —C — COOM St ■ Q - {CH-}. — N p R“ 0X) R' x R" N' I S t — O - C — C — COOM H H2 (XQ formulas (VIII) to (XI), in which: - St-0 represents a starch molecule; - R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -C(O)-OH group; - n is an integer equal to 2 or 3; - M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, a quaternary ammonium NH4, or an organic amine; and - R" represents a hydrogen atom or a CrCi8 alkyl radical.
[0207] These compounds are notably described in US5455340 and US4017460.
[0208] Particular use is made of starches of formulas (IX) or (X); and preferably starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, i.e. starches of formula (IX) or (X) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Preferably, the amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamido dipropionate.
[0209] Celluloses and cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0210] Among these derivatives, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.
[0211] Among the cellulose esters, mention may be made of inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionate sulfates.
[0212] Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0213] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0214] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. As an example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, as well as their sodium salts.
[0215] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses. The quaternizing agent may in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example Celquat L200 from NATIONAL STARCH). As another cationic cellulose ether, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example Ucare polymer JR 400 from AMERCHOL).
[0216] Among the associative polymers with sugar unit(s), mention may be made of celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or their mixtures where the alkyl groups are C8-C22; non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by the company AQUALON; quaternized (cationic) alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C[8 alkyl) sold by the company AMERCHOL, the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C[8 alkyl) sold by the company CRODA and the product SOFTCAT SL 100 sold by the company AMERCHOL; non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL; non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL.
[0217] As polymers with sugar unit(s) derived from associative guar, mention may be made of hydroxypropylguars modified by a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0218] The water-soluble polymer(s) with sugar unit(s) that can be used to form the envelope of the packaging article are preferably chosen from guar gums, carob gums, xanthan gums, starches and celluloses, in their modified (derivatives) or unmodified form.
[0219] Preferably, said polymer(s) with sugar unit(s) are non-ionic.
[0220] The water-soluble polymers described above more particularly have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) greater than 1,000,000 and preferably between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000. The molecular weight is determined by the RSV (Reduced Specified Viscocity) method as defined in "Principles of Polymer Chemistry" Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY 1953 Chapter VII "Determination of molecular Weight" pp 266-316.
[0221] The water-soluble or liposoluble compound(s) capable of forming the envelope of the packaging article according to the invention may be in the form of fibers or film.
[0222] According to a first embodiment, the water-soluble or fat-soluble compound(s) are in the form of fibers. By "fiber" is meant any object whose length is greater than its cross-section. In other words, it is necessary to understand an object of length L and diameter D such that L is greater and preferably much greater (i.e. at least 3 times greater) than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross-section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L / D (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and better still from 5 to 150. The cross-section of a fiber can be of any shape, round, serrated or grooved, or even bean-shaped, but also multi-lobed, in particular tri-lobed or penta-lobed, X-shaped, ribbon-shaped, square, triangular, elliptical, or other. The fibers of the invention can be hollow or non-hollow.
[0223] According to this embodiment, the fibers can be spun, carded or twisted. Advantageously, the fibers used in the context of the present invention are spun. The average diameter of the fibers used according to the present invention, identical or different, is less than 500 μm. Advantageously, such a diameter is less than 200 μm, preferably less than 100 μm, or even less than 50 μm.
[0224] Mention may more particularly be made of water-soluble fibers which include PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) based fibers, polysaccharide fibers such as glucomannans, starches, celluloses such as carboxymethylcelluloses, polyalginic acid fibers, polylactic acid fibers, and polyalkyleneoxide fibers, as well as mixtures thereof. More preferably, the water-soluble fiber(s) used in the invention are chosen from PVA-based fibers.
[0225] The fibers of the envelope are generally entangled. The term "envelope comprising water-soluble fibers" means an envelope which may be entirely made of water-soluble fibers which may comprise both water-soluble fibers and water-insoluble fibers at a temperature of less than or equal to 35°C, the soluble fibers having to be in greater quantity than the insoluble fibers. The fiber envelope must comprise at least 60% by weight of soluble fibers, preferably at least 70% and better still at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the fibers. It may thus comprise, for example, more than 95% by weight, or even more than 99% by weight and even 100% by weight of water-soluble fibers relative to the total weight of the fibers of the envelope.
[0226] When the envelope contains insoluble fibers, these may be made of any material usually used as insoluble fibers; for example, these may be fibers of silk, cotton, wool, linen, polyamide (Nylon®), polylactic acid, modified cellulose (rayon, viscose, rayon acetate), poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide, in particular Kevlar®, polyolefin, in particular polyethylene or polypropylene, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, in particular in graphite form, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene chloride, polyethylene terephthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of the compounds mentioned above, such as polyamide / polyester or viscose / polyester fibers.
[0227] Furthermore, when the envelope contains fibers, it can be woven or non-woven.
[0228] According to a first variant of the invention, the envelope can be woven. In the context of the present invention, a “woven” material results from an organized assembly of fibers, in particular water-soluble polymeric fibers, and more particularly from an interweaving, in the same plane, of said fibers, arranged in the direction of the warp and of fibers arranged, perpendicular to the warp fibers, in the direction of the weft. The bond obtained between these warp and weft fibers is defined by an armor.
[0229] Such a woven material results from an operation aimed at assembling the fibers in a manner organized such as weaving itself, but can also result from knitting.
[0230] According to another variant of the invention, the envelope is non-woven.
[0231] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-woven” means a substrate comprising fibers, in particular water-soluble polymeric fibers, in which the individual fibers are arranged haphazardly in a web-like structure and which are neither woven nor knitted. The fibers of the nonwoven are generally bonded together, either by mechanical action (e.g. needling, air jet, water jet), by thermal action, or by the addition of a binder.
[0232] Such a non-woven fabric is for example defined by the ISO 9092 standard as a web or sheet of directionally or randomly oriented fibers, bound by friction and / or cohesion and / or adhesion, excluding paper and products obtained by weaving, knitting, tufting or sewing incorporating binding yarns or filaments.
[0233] A nonwoven differs from a paper by the length of the fibers used. In paper, the fibers are shorter. However, there are nonwovens based on cellulose fibers that are manufactured by wet process and have short fibers like in paper. The difference between a nonwoven and a paper is generally the absence of hydrogen bonding between the fibers in a nonwoven.
[0234] Very preferably, the fibers used in the context of the present invention are chosen from synthetic fibers such as PVA fibers. In particular, the envelope is non-woven, and preferably made of non-woven PVA fibers.
[0235] To produce the non-woven envelope of the packaging article, PVA fibers are preferably used that are soluble in water at a temperature of less than or equal to 35°C, such as, for example, the fibers sold by the Japanese company Kuraray under the name KURALON K-II, and particularly the WN2 grade soluble from 20°C. These fibers are described in document EP-A-636716 which teaches the manufacture of PVA fibers that are soluble in water at temperatures not exceeding 100°C, by spinning and stretching the polyvinyl alcohol polymer in the dry or wet state in the presence of solvents involved in the solubilization and solidification of the fiber. The fiber thus obtained can lead to the production of woven or non-woven substrates.
[0236] These fibers can also be prepared from a spinning solution by dissolving a water-soluble PVA-based polymer in a first organic solvent, spinning the solution in a second organic solvent to obtain solidified filaments and wet-drawing the filaments from which the first solvent is removed, then dried and subjected to a heat treatment. The cross-section of these fibers can be substantially circular. These fibers have a tensile strength of at least 2.7 g / dtex (3 g / d). Application EP-A-0 636 716 describes such water-soluble fibers based on of PVA and their manufacturing process. For example, the fibers can also be formed by extrusion and deposited on a conveyor to form a fiber web which is then consolidated by a conventional fiber bonding technique, such as for example needling, hot bonding, calendering or air-through bonding, a technique in which the water-soluble web passes through a tunnel where hot air is blown, or hydrobonding aimed at bonding the fibers under the action of fine jets of water under very high pressure, which cannot be applied to fibers whose dissolution temperature is too low pressure.
[0237] As we have seen previously, the invention is not limited to the use of PVA, and it is also possible to use fibers made from other water-soluble materials provided that these materials dissolve in water having the desired temperature, for example polysaccharide fibers marketed under the name LYSORB by the company LYS AC TECHNOLOGIES, INC or other fibers based on polysaccharide polymers such as glucomannans or starch.
[0238] The casing may comprise a mixture of different fibers soluble in water at different temperatures (up to 35°C).
[0239] The fibers may be composite, and they may comprise, for example, a core and a sheath which are not of the same nature, for example formed from different grades of PVA.
[0240] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the envelope is a non-woven fabric, comprising water-soluble fibers, alone or mixed with insoluble fibers as indicated above, with at most 40% by weight of insoluble fibers relative to the total weight of the fibers constituting the sheet. Preferably, the non-woven fabric consists essentially of water-soluble fibers, that is to say that it does not contain insoluble fibers.
[0241] According to another embodiment of the invention, the envelope of the packaging article may consist of one or more films, each of which comprises one or more water-soluble and / or liposoluble compounds, in particular as defined above. When the envelope consists of several films, said films may be assembled, for example glued together, in order to form only one unitary film.
[0242] The thickness of the “overall” film (i.e. the thickness of the single film when the envelope contains only one or of the unitary film when the envelope contains several films) is advantageously between 10 and 1000 microns, preferably between 10 and 800 microns, and more preferably between 15-500 microns.
[0243] Film is understood to mean in particular a continuous layer preferably formed from one or more water-soluble and / or liposoluble compounds as defined above, in particular polymer(s).
[0244] The main industrial methods for producing polymeric films are extrusion of a molten polymer, casting a solution of a polymer onto a polished metal surface (in some cases, the polymer solution is introduced into a precipitation tank), casting a dispersion of the polymer onto a polished surface and calendering.
[0245] The films usable according to the present invention can be chosen from multilayer film-film, film-paper (coating) and film-coating.
[0246] When applied by spraying, brushing or various industrial processes, surface coatings undergo so-called film formation, and in particular film-coating. In most film-forming processes, a relatively low-viscosity liquid coating is applied to a solid substrate and cured into a solid, adherent film based on a high molecular weight polymer having the properties desired by the user.
[0247] The films which can be used according to the present invention are in particular PVA films which can be manufactured using any industrial production method, such as a method of casting a PVA-based polymer solution, an extrusion method in the presence or absence of water, a dry extrusion molding method or a biaxial orientation method.
[0248] The packaging article, as well as the envelope, may have any shape suitable for the intended use, for example a rectangular, round or oval shape. Preferably, it has a rounded geometry, for example in the form of a sphere, a disc, or an oval, or else square or parallelepiped, preferably with rounded corners. The envelope preferably has dimensions allowing it to be grasped between at least two fingers. Thus, it may have, for example, an ovoid shape of approximately 2 to 10 cm long and approximately 0.5 to 4 cm wide, or a circular disc shape of approximately 2 to 10 cm in diameter, or a square shape of approximately 2 to 15 cm on each side, or a rectangle shape of approximately 2 to 25 cm in length, it being understood that it may have any other shape and dimension suitable for the intended use.
[0249] Preferably, the envelope may be round in shape with an internal diameter ranging from 3 to 7 cm, more preferably from 4 to 5 cm; to which may be added the dimension of the edges (sealed part) which may range from 1 to 5 mm, better still from 2 to 4 mm; and a height ranging from 2 to 7 mm, preferably from 3 to 5 mm.
[0250] The envelope may also be square or rectangular in shape with a length preferably ranging from 2 to 6 cm, more preferably from 3 to 5 cm, and a width preferably ranging from 2 to 5 cm, more preferably 2.5 to 4 cm; to which may be added the dimension of the edges (sealed part) which may preferably range from 1 to 5 mm, and more preferably from 2 to 4 mm.
[0251] Advantageously, the envelope has a low thickness, and can be made of several layers of different materials. Preferably the thickness of the envelope ranges from 3 to 99.9% of its other dimensions. The envelope is thus substantially flat, with thin edges.
[0252] The surface delimiting the cavity(ies) has an area advantageously less than 625 cm2, preferably between 0.025 cm2 and 400 cm2, more preferably between 1 and 200 cm2, better still between 2 and 50 cm2, and better still between 4 and 25 cm2, in order to have optimized compaction of the composition. It has been observed that when the surface of the article is in the above ranges, the compaction of the anhydrous solid composition into powder is lower and the transformation of the powder into a fluid composition in the hands is done more easily, without the formation of agglomerates.
[0253] Preferably, the height of the envelope is greater than or equal to 2 mm, more preferably ranging from 2 to 10 mm, and better still from 3 to 7 mm.
[0254] Preferably, the film(s) used in the context of the present invention are chosen from synthetic films, such as PVA or PVOH films, as well as their mixtures.
[0255] Preferably, the envelope is made up of several layers, for example, 2 or 3 layers, of films each made, preferably, of different materials. Advantageously, at least one of these films is a film comprising or consisting of PVA and / or PVOH.
[0256] Preferably, the film(s) are sealed to form one or more cavities that will comprise the anhydrous solid composition of the invention and prevent it from escaping.
[0257] Advantageously, the packaging article comprises from 1 to 5g, preferably from 2 to 4.5g of anhydrous solid composition; and from 0.1 to 0.8g, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5g of envelope.
[0258] The present invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of implementing a packaging article as defined above, preferably, said cosmetic treatment method comprises the following steps: (i) mixing the packaging article in a composition capable of dissolving, in whole or in part, the envelope of said packaging article, ii) apply the composition obtained in step i) to the keratin fibers, iii) optionally leave to stand, iv) rinse said keratin fibers, and v) optionally drying said keratin fibers.
[0259] It is understood that the composition capable of solubilizing the envelope depends on the nature of the envelope. In other words, the composition capable of solubilizing the envelope is water or an aqueous composition, when the packaging article contains mainly or only a hydrophilic envelope. And, the composition capable of solubilizing the envelope is an organic anhydrous composition or an aqueous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty substance or at least one organic solvent different from the liquid fatty substances such as lower monoalcohols, for example ethanol, or such as polyols, for example propylene glycol or glycerin, when the packaging article contains mainly or only a lipophilic envelope.
[0260] Thus, the aqueous composition may simply be water. The aqueous composition may optionally comprise at least one polar solvent. Among the polar solvents that can be used in this composition, mention may be made of organic compounds that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at least partially miscible with water.
[0261] By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of alkanols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0262] More particularly, if one or more solvents are present, their respective content in the aqueous composition varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of said aqueous composition.
[0263] The dilution ratio (expressed by weight) between one or more packaging articles, as defined above, and the composition capable of solubilizing the packaging article(s) is preferably between 10 / 90 and 90 / 10, and more preferably between 10 / 90 and 50 / 50. Better still, this dilution ratio is 20 / 80.
[0264] In particular, the composition obtained at the end of the mixing (step i) of the process) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. It is advantageously left to apply on the keratin fibers for a period ranging from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
[0265] Then, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water. They may optionally be washed with shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0266] The present invention also relates to the use of a conditioning article, as defined above, for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0267] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0268] Example 1 The following anhydrous solid composition A according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% in g of active material). [Tables 1] Composition A Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10.2 Sodium lauroyl glutamate 23 Cocamidopropyl betaine 10 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride 0.6 Magnesium stearate 5 Sodium bicarbonate 3.75 Citric acid 1.25 Sodium chloride 1.8 Perfume 3.5 Corn starch Qsp 100
[0269] Composition A thus obtained is in the form of anhydrous powder (its water content (from the raw materials) being equal to 0.17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition) and can be used for washing hair.
[0270] Example 2 a) Compositions tested The following anhydrous solid compositions Al and A2 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% in g of active material). [Tables 2] Composition Al Composition A2 Cocamidopropyl betaine 10 10 Sodium cocoyl isethionate 10.2 10.2 Sodium lauroyl glutamate 23 23 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride 0.6 - Cationic cellulose ether (polyquaternium-67) - 0.6 Magnesium stearate 5 5 Sodium bicarbonate 3.75 3.75 Citric acid 1.25 1.25 Perfume 3.5 3.5 Corn starch Qsp 100 Qsp 100 [0271 ] b) Protocol The foam resistance and cosmetic properties of each of the compositions Al and A2 thus obtained are evaluated according to the following methods:
[0272] Holding the foam 0.2g of each of the compositions A1 and A2 are weighed into a plastic cup. Strands of natural hair of 2.7g each, previously wet (5 passes under tap water at 37°C, then wrung out twice), are placed in the cups. The strands are then massaged for 20 seconds by making circular movements in the cup with the fingers. The strands are then wrung out twice and the resulting foam is collected and photographed. The strands are compared to an untreated wet strand.
[0273] Cosmetic properties A panel of 3 experts evaluated the cosmetic properties, in terms of suppleness, smoothing and detangling, of each of the towel-dried strands and compared them to an untreated wet strand. The testers gave a score ranging from -3 to +3 to each of the following cosmetic properties: suppleness, smoothing and detangling, according to the following criteria: negative scores correspond to properties that are less good than those of the reference, 0 being identical to the reference, and positive notes corresponding to properties superior to the reference. The same rating system was used to evaluate the foam's hold.
[0274] cl Results
[0275] The results are given in the table below. [Tables 3] Composition Al Composition A2 Foam hold +2 +1 Cosmetic properties (average of 3 experts) +3 +1
[0276] The compositions Al and A2 thus obtained are in powder form and can be used for washing hair. They allow rapid foaming and generate abundant foam. The foams obtained from compositions Al and A2 have good hold, this hold is further improved with composition AL. The foam obtained from composition Al is in fact creamier than that of composition A2. The above results show that the compositions according to the invention also confer good cosmetic properties to the hair, in particular in terms of detangling, suppleness and smoothing. These properties are further improved after application of the composition AL
[0277] Example 3 The following anhydrous solid compositions A3, A4 and A5 were prepared, according to the invention, from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% in g of active material). [Tables 4] Composition A3 Composition A4 Composition A5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 8.5 8.5 8.5 Sodium cocoyl isethionate 8.3 8.3 8.3 Sodium lauroyl glutamate 16.5 16.5 16.5 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride 0.2 0.4 0.8 Cetylstearyl glucoside / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture 1.2 1.2 1.2 Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 Corn starch Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
[0278] The compositions A3-A5 thus prepared are packaged in powder form in a water-soluble sachet based on PVOH. The packaging article thus obtained can then be used as a washing composition: it is placed in the palm of the hand, water is added to it in order to solubilize it and possibly form a foam, then it is applied to the hair, preferably previously moistened.
Claims
Claims
1. An anhydrous solid composition comprising: (i) one or more anionic surfactants of sulfonate type, (ii) one or more anionic surfactants of carboxylate type, (iii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (iv) one or more fillers, and (v) one or more cationic polysaccharides, different from the filler(s) (iv).
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, sulfolaurates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from the compounds of formula (I): RrCOX-R2-SO3M (I) formula (I), in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, - X represents an oxygen atom or an -N(CH3)- or -NH- group, preferably an oxygen atom, - R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - M denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkali-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type (i) ranges from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, and better still from 8 to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carboxylate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II): R-(OCH2CH2)nW-(CHY1)p-COOX (II) formula (II), in which: - Yi denotes a hydrogen atom, a (CH2)qCOOX group or a hydroxyl group; - W denotes an oxygen atom, a (O-Glu-O)r-(COCH(Y 2)-(C(OH)COOX)t)s group or a CO-NR3 group; - Y2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group; - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - X denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkali-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine; - R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;- Glu denotes a divalent radical derived from glucopyranose with the removal of 2 hydroxyl groups; - p is equal to 0 or 1; - q denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 50; - r denotes a number ranging from 1 to 10; - s is equal to 0 or 1; and -1 is equal to 0 or 1.;
6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) for which: - n=0, p=1, Yi=H, W=C0NH (the N-acylglycinates), - n=0, p=1, W= CON(CH3) and Yi = H (the N-acylsarcosinates), and - n=0, p=1, W =CONH and Y! = CH2CH2COOX (the N-acylglutamates).
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type (ii) ranges from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of anionic surfactant(s) of carboxylate type (ii) and the total content of anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type (i) is greater than or equal to 0.6, preferably ranges from 0.6 to 5, more preferably from 0.7 to 4.5, better still from 0.8 to 4, even more preferably from 1 to 3.5, and even better still from 1.1 to 3.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filler(s) are chosen from polymeric organic fillers and their mixtures, preferably from cyclodextrins, starches, alginates, gellans, guar gums, celluloses, wood flours, crosslinked polyvinyl pyrrolidones, polyacrylates and their mixtures, and more preferably from starches and their mixtures.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the filler(s) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polysaccharide(s) other than the fillers (iv) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and their mixtures, and preferably cationic guar gums and their mixtures.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) is greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of an anhydrous solid composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims; the anhydrous solid composition being applied directly to said keratin fibers or after having been previously moistened with water.
15. Packaging article comprising: - an envelope defining at least one cavity, the envelope comprising one or more water-soluble and / or fat-soluble compounds; - an anhydrous solid composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13; it being understood that the anhydrous solid composition is located in one of the cavities defined by the envelope.
16. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of implementing a conditioning article as defined in claim 15, preferably, said cosmetic treatment process comprises the following steps: i) mixing the conditioning article in a composition capable of solubilizing, in whole or in part, the envelope of said conditioning article, ii) applying the composition obtained in step i) to the keratin fibers, iii) optionally leaving to act, iv) rinsing said keratin fibers, and v) optionally drying said keratin fibers.
17. Use of an anhydrous solid composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 or of a conditioning article as defined in claim 15 for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.