Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanin, a triazine UV filter, and a polysaccharide modified by hydrophobic chains
A composition with merocyanins and triazine UV filters addresses the limitations of existing photoprotective compositions by enhancing UVA protection, solubility, and reducing fabric staining, offering broad-spectrum photoprotection and improved cosmetic properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2020013603
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-20
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-12-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing photoprotective compositions have insufficient effectiveness against long UVA radiation, unsatisfactory solubility in common solvents and oils, and often leave yellow stains on fabrics, while existing merocyanine UV filters require laborious formulation and have poor photostability.
A composition comprising merocyanins of formulas (1) or (2) with hydrophobic chains, triazine UV filters, and polysaccharides, providing broad-spectrum photoprotection with reduced staining and improved cosmetic properties.
The composition offers effective photoprotection against UVA and UVB radiation, minimizes fabric staining, and maintains a fresh, light application feel, while ensuring good solubility and photostability.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanin, a triazine UV filter, and a polysaccharide modified by hydrophobic chains
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, comprising at least one merocyanin of formula (1) or (2) which will be defined in detail later, at least one triazine UV filter, and at least one polysaccharide modified by hydrophobic chains.
[0002] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one such merocyanin of formula (1) or (2) to reduce staining of fabrics, in particular clothing, after washing.
[0003] It is known that radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the human epidermis to tan, and that radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, interferes with the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles and leading to premature skin aging.
[0004] It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate the skin more deeply than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent tanning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods, under normal conditions can lead to the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers, resulting in changes to the skin's microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation (brown spots, uneven skin tone).
[0005] Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotection product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.
[0006] Numerous photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to counteract the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic and / or inorganic UV filters that function according to their own chemical nature and properties by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic filters and / or water-soluble UV filters combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
[0007] Numerous cosmetic compositions designed to limit skin darkening and improve skin tone and evenness have been proposed to date. It is well known in the field of sunscreens that such compositions can be obtained using UV filters, and in particular UVB filters. Some compositions may also contain UVA filters. This filtering system must provide UVB protection in order to limit and control the neosynthesis of melanin that promotes overall pigmentation, but it must also provide UVA protection in order to limit and control the oxidation of existing melanin that leads to skin darkening.
[0008] However, it is extremely difficult to find a composition containing a particular combination of UV filters that would be specially adapted for the photoprotection of the skin and particularly for an improvement in the quality of the skin both in terms of color and its mechanical properties of elasticity.
[0009] Advantageously, this improvement is particularly sought on already pigmented skin in order to not increase either the pigment load in melanin or the structure of the melanin already present in the skin.
[0010] In fact, the majority of organic UV filters consist of aromatic compounds absorbing in the wavelength range between 280 and 370 nm. In addition to their ability to filter solar radiation, the desired photoprotective compounds must also exhibit good cosmetic properties, good solubility in common solvents and particularly in fatty substances such as oils, as well as good photostability, either alone or in combination with other UV filters. They must also be colorless or at least have a color that is cosmetically acceptable to the consumer.
[0011] One of the main drawbacks known to date of these compositions is that these filtering systems have insufficient effectiveness against UV radiation and particularly against long UVA radiation with wavelengths beyond 370 nm in order to control photo-induced pigmentation and its evolution by a UV filtering system over the entire UV spectrum.
[0012] Among all the compounds that have been recommended for this purpose, an interesting family of UV filters has been proposed, consisting of derivatives of carbonated merocyanine, which is described in US patent 4195999, application WO2004 / 006878 and document IP COM Journal 4 (4), 16 No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04 / 03 / 2004. These compounds exhibit very good filtration properties in long UVA radiation but have only slightly satisfactory solubility in common solvents and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, and unsatisfactory photostability for some merocyanines.
[0013] In order to find other merocyanins with better solubility in common solvents and improved photostability, application WO2013 / 011094 proposed merocyanins comprising polar groups consisting of hydroxyl and ether functions that exhibit good long-wave UVA filtration efficiency. However, the oil solubility of these particular merocyanins is not yet fully satisfactory and often requires a laborious formulation process. Furthermore, the large quantities of solvent needed to solubilize this type of merocyanin can lead to cosmetic drawbacks such as a sticky and greasy effect upon application.
[0014] Moreover, sunscreens, and in particular those which protect against UVA, are well known to those skilled in the art as leaving yellow stains on clothes, these yellow stains being very difficult to remove by washing.
[0015] The Applicant made a surprising discovery that when merocyanins of formula (1) or (2) defined below are used as UVA filters, they leave little trace after washing, and that this trace fades over time. This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
[0016] Thus, in accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, a composition, particularly a cosmetic or dermatological one, is now proposed comprising at least one merocyanin of formula (1) or (2), which will be defined in detail later, at least one triazine UV filter, and at least one polysaccharide modified by hydrophobic chains. This composition makes it possible, in particular, to obtain a sunscreen product that does not have the disadvantage of irreversibly staining clothing or other fabrics. Furthermore, this composition has good cosmetic properties, and in particular, it is fresh and light upon application. It also provides a good level of photoprotection over a broad spectrum (UVA + UVB).
[0017] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one merocyanin of formula (1) or (2) which will be defined in detail later to reduce staining of fabrics, in particular clothing.
[0018] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0019] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above.
[0020] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined previously.
[0021] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.
[0022] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Hereinafter, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.
[0023] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
[0024] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
[0025] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".
[0026] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material.
[0027] By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule also being able to absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
[0028] By "organic UVB filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.
[0029] The level of sun protection is defined by the sun protection factor (SPF), which is mathematically expressed as the ratio of the exposure time required to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter to the time required to reach the erythematogenic threshold without the UV filter.
[0030] It can be evaluated in vivo, in particular according to the iso 24444 method.
[0031] It can also be determined according to the "in vitro" method described by BL Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989).
[0032] To characterize protection against UV-A, the PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, which measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after Skin exposure to UV-A is particularly recommended and used. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UV-A labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin; Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy; Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996). MEROCYANIS
[0033] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one merocyanine-type UVA filter as defined below.
[0034] According to the present invention, these merocyanine compounds correspond to the following formulas (1) or (2):
[0035] [Formula 1]
[0037] in which:
[0038] Ri and R2, independent of each other, are hydrogen; an alkyl group at C1-C22, an alkenyl group at C2-C22, an alcinyl group at C2-C22, these groups being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or interrupted by at least one -O-; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen atom which links them form a -(CH2)n- ring which may optionally be interrupted by -O- or -NH-;
[0039] R3 is a -(C=O)OR6 group; or a -(CO)NHR6 group;
[0040] R6 is an alkyl group at C1-C22, an alkenyl group at C2-C22, an alcinyl group at C2-C22, a cycloalkyl group at C3-C22 or a cycloalkenyl group at C3-C22, said groups being able to be substituted by one or more OH;
[0041] R4 and R5 are hydrogens; or R4 and R5 form a -(CH2)n- ring that can be substituted by an alkyl group at C1-C4 and / or interrupted by one or more -O- or by -NH-;
[0042] n is a number between 2 and 7;
[0043] R7 and R8 independent of each other, are hydrogen; an alkyl group at C1-C22, an alkenyl group at C2-C22, an alcinyl group at C2-C22, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O and / or substituted by one or more OH; a cycloalkyl group at C3-C22 or a cycloalkenyl group at C3-C22, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more -O-;
[0044] or R7 and R8 together with the nitrogen that links them form a -(CH2)n- ring that can be interrupted by one or more -O-;
[0045] R9 and Rio are hydrogen; or R9 and R10 form a -(CH2)n- ring potentially substituted by an alkyl at C1-C4 and / or interrupted by an -O- or -NH-;
[0046] A is -O- ; or -NH ;
[0047] Rn is an alkyl group in C1-C22; an alkenyl group in C2-C22; a C2-C22 alcinyl group; a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O's; or a C1-C22 alkyl group or a C2-C22 alkenyl group which is substituted by a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group being able to be interrupted by one or more -O's.
[0048] Preferably, compounds of formula (1) or (2) have the following characteristics:
[0049] (I) at least one of the Rb R2 or R6 groups is substituted by a hydroxyl;
[0050] (II) if one of the Ri designates a hydroxyethyl, R2 does not designate a hydrogen, a methyl or an ethyl or a hydroxyethyl; and if Ride designates hydrogen, R2 is not the l-hydroxy-3-methyl-but-2-yl;
[0051] (III) if R6 is substituted by one or more OH, one of Ri or R2 is an alkyl group in C4-C22; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen to which they are linked form a piperidyl or morpholinyl radical;
[0052] (IV) at least one of the radicals R7, R8, or Ru is interrupted by one or more -O-.
[0053] Preferred compounds are those of formulas (1) or (2) where:
[0054] Ri and R2, independent of each other, are hydrogen; a C4-C12 alkyl group; or a C3-Ci2 hydroxyalkyl group; or at least one of Ri or R2 is a C3-Ci2 hydroxyalkyl group; and
[0055] R3, R4 and R5 have the same meanings indicated above.
[0056] The preferred compounds are also those of formula (1) where:
[0057] R6 is an alkyl group in Ci-Ci2, which may be potentially substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0058] The most preferred compounds are also those of formula (1), where:
[0059] R6 is a C1-C12 alkyl group, which can be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0060] one of the radicals Ri or R2 is a C4-C22 alkyl group; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen linking them form a -(CH2)n- ring that can be interrupted by -O- and / or -NH-; and
[0061] R4 and R5 and n have the same meanings indicated above.
[0062] The preferred compounds are those of formula (2) where:
[0063] Ru is a radical -(CH2)mO-Ri2 ; where
[0064] R12 is a C1-C12 alkyl group; or a Ci-C6alkoxy-Ci-C6 group alkyl;
[0065] m is a number from 1 to 5; and
[0066] R7, R8, R9, Rio and A have the same meanings indicated above.
[0067] The even more preferred compounds are those of formula (1) or (2), where:
[0068] Ri and R2 on the one hand, and R7 and R8 on the other hand, form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are respectively linked a piperidyl radical or a morpholinyl radical.
[0069] The preferred compounds are also those of formulas (1) and (2), where:
[0070] R4 and R5 and R9 and R10 respectively form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0071] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (1), where:
[0072] Ri and R2 independently of each other are a hydrogen; or an alkyl group in C1-C22; or a hydroxyalkyl group in C1-C22; or Ri and R2 together with the nitrogen to which they are bonded form a piperidyl or morpholinyl radical;
[0073] R3 is a -(C=O)OR6 group; or a -(CO)NHR6 group;
[0074] R6 is an alkyl group in C1-C22, which can be substituted by one or more -OHs;
[0075] R4 and R5 are hydrogen; or R4 and R5 are linked together to form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0076] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (1), where:
[0077] Ri and R2 independently of each other are a hydrogen; or a C1-C22 hydroxyalkyl group; where at least one of the radicals Ri and R2 is a C1-C22 hydroxyalkyl group;
[0078] R3 is a -(C=O)OR6 group; or a -(C=O)NHR6 group;
[0079] R6 is an alkyl group at C1-C22; and
[0080] R4 and R5 are hydrogens; or R4 and R5 are linked together to form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0081] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (2), where:
[0082] R7 and R8 independently of each other are a hydrogen or an alkyl group in Ci-C8, which may be by one or more -O-;
[0083] A is -O- or -NH;
[0084] Ru is a C1-C22 alkyl group; and
[0085] R9 and Rio are hydrogen; or R9 and R10 are linked together to form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0086] The most preferred compounds are those of formula (2), where:
[0087] R7 and R8 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are linked, form a morpholinyl or piperidyl radical;
[0088] A is -O- or -NH;
[0089] Ru is a C1-C22 alkyl group that can be interrupted by one or more -O-s; and
[0090] R9 and Rio are hydrogens; or R9 and Rio are linked together to form a carbon ring which contains 6 carbon atoms.
[0091] Even more preferred compounds are those of formula (2), where:
[0092] Rnest is a radical -(CH2)mO-Ri2, where
[0093] R12 is an alkyl group in CrC4; or a Ci-C4alkoxy-Ci-C4 group alkyl;
[0094] m is a number from 1 to 3;
[0095] R7 and R8, independently of each other, are a hydrogen; an alkyl group in C1-C12, which may be interrupted by one or more O's; or R7 and R8 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded form a morpholinyl or piperidyl radical;
[0096] R9 and Rio are hydrogens or together form a carbon ring containing 6 carbon atoms; and
[0097] A is -O- or -NH.
[0098] The merocyanine compounds of the invention can be, for example, in the isomeric geometric form E / E-, E / Z- or Z / Z.
[0099] Alkyl, cycloalkyl, alkenyl, alkylidene or cycloalkenyl chains can be linear or branched, monocyclic or polycyclic.
[0100] An alkyl group in the C1-C22 position is, for example, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, 2-pentyl, 3- pentyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, n-hexyl, n-octyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 2-ethylhexyl, nonyl, decyl, n-octadecyl, eicosyl or dodecyl.
[0101] A substituted alkyl group is, for example, methoxyethyl, ethoxypropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, hydroxyethyl, chloropropyl, N,N-diethylaminopropyl, cyanoethyl, phenethyl, benzyl, p-tert-butylphenethyl, p-tert-octylphenoxyethyl, 3-(2,4-di-tert-amylphenoxy)-propyl, ethoxycarbonylmethyl-2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethyl or 2-furylethyl.
[0102] A hydroxy-substituted alkyl group is for example a hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, hydroxypentyl, hydroxyhexyl, hydroxyheptyl, hydroxyoctyl, hydroxynonyl or hydroxydecyl.
[0103] An alkenyl group in C2-C22 is for example a linear alkenyl chain in C2-Ci2 or preferably a branched alkenyl C3-Ci2. A C2-C22 alkenyl is for example a vinyl, allyl, 2-propen-2-yl, 2-buten-l-yl, 3-buten-l-yl, 1,3-butadien-2-yl, 2-cyclobuten-l-yl, 2-penten-l-yl, 3-penten-2-yl, 2-methyl-l-buten-3-yl, 2-methyl-3-buten-2-yl, 3-methyl-2-buten-l-yl, 1,4-pentadien-3-yl, 2-cyclopenten-l-yl, 2-cyclohexen-l-yl, 3-cyclohexen-l-yl, 2,4-cyclohexadien-l-yl, lp-menthen-8-yl, 4(10)-thujèn-10-yl, 2-norbomèn-l-yl, 2,5-norbornadièn-l-yl, 7,7-dimethyl-2,4-norcaradièn-3-yl or the different isomers of hexènyl, octènyl, noènyl, decènyl or dodecènyl.
[0104] A cycloalkyl group in C3-Ci2 is for example a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, trimethylcyclohexyl or preferably a cyclohexyl.
[0105] Examples of merocyanins according to the present invention are listed in Table 1: [Tables 1] Table 1 Composite Structure Composite Structure 1 S î 2 111111111111 ïSS^SHïïSSSSg k 0. ïïïïïïïïïÈWÏïÈ^ llllillllllli 3 iiiiiiiiiiiii l||)|iiW 4 ■Illjlljlljljljl—illjl ⠖5 ..... lllllllllllj 6 U ; iiiiiiiiiiiii 1 H 7 kkkkkkk ïÜllæ^lililili ililililililillilliill 8 9 10 U 1 ■ k 1 , 11 k^^^ / « » 12 liiiiiiiiiiiii^ BftkkkfwBiSbkl^^ 13 II.....1111lililili11^ lîlililili I1111^ lllilllllllli 14 ÉBlii ■■ii |l|l|l|l|l|l|l|l|l|O|l|g
[0106]
[0107]
[0108]
[0109]
[0110] [YES]
[0112]
[0113] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a family of merocyanins satisfying the following formula (3) together with their isomeric geometric forms, namely E / E- or E / Z-, shall be used: [Formula 3] AF in which: A is -O- or -NH ; R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alcinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O's. The merocyanine compounds of the invention can be in their isomeric geometric forms E / E-, E / Z-: [formula 4] [Formula 5] The compounds of formula (3) that are even more preferred are those where: A is -O- ; R is an alkyl in CrC22, which can be interrupted by one or more O's.
[0114] Among the compounds of formula (3), particular use will be made of those chosen from the following group and their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E-, E / Z-: [Tables 2] 14 ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amin o]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanoate 15 JpSSÏïO-SSSSSSSSSS (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3 -methoxypropyl)amino] cyclohex-2-en-1-yli dene} ethanamide 25 1111^ 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{ 3-[(3-methoxypr opyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoa te 27 2-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{ 3-[(3-methoxypr opyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoa te 29 2-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{ 3-[(3-methoxypr opyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoa te 31 3-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methox ypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}etha noate 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypr opyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoa te
[0115]
[0116]
[0117] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{ 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)-amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]ethanoate (25) will be used in its E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration. The E / Z form has the following structure: [Formula 6]
[0118] The E / E form has the following structure:
[0119] [formula 7]
[0120] The filtering merocyanins according to the invention can be present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] The compounds of formula (1) and (2) and especially of formula (3) can be prepared according to known processes, as described for example in J.Org.Chem. USSR (English Translation) 26(8), p. 1562f (1990); J. Heterocycl. Chem. 33(3), p. 763-766 (1996); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 11, p. 1537-1543 (1984); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 3, p. 397-404 (1982); Chem.Heterocycl.Comp. (English Translation) 24(8), 914-919 (1988) and in Synthetic Communications Vol. 33, No. 3, 2003, p 367-371.
[0122] The synthesis of the compounds used in the present invention is also described in US2003 / 0181483A1, WO 0234710, Eur. J. Org. Chem. 2003, 2250-2253, J. Med. Chem. 1996, 39, 1112-1124 and J. Org. Chem., Vol. 37, No. 8, 1972, 1141-1145 as follows:
[0123] [formula 8]
[0124] CH-acid vinylogenic compounds are reacted with amide acetals.
[0125] In the document J. Heterocyclic Chem., 27, 1990, 1143-1151, aminoacrylic acid esters or aminoacrylnitriles are governed with ethoxymethylenecyanoacetates in ethanol to form the corresponding compounds of the present invention.
[0126] Compounds of formula (1) or (2), where R4 and R5 on the one hand, or R9 and Rio on the other, together form a carbocyclic ring containing 6 carbon atoms, respectively, can be prepared according to the protocols described in Pat. Appl. WO 2007 / 071582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D under the heading “Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-l-ylidene compounds” and in US-A-4,749,643 on col. 13, line 66 - col. 14, line 57 and the references cited therein. Triazine UV filters
[0127] Among the triazine UV filters according to the invention, we can mention 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine and the following chemical formula:
[0128] [formula 9]
[0129]
[0130]
[0131]
[0132]
[0133]
[0134] We can also mention Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB S®" by BASF, Ethylhexyl Triazone sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL T 150®" by BASF, and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB ®" by SIGMA 3V. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one triazine derivative selected from the following 1,3,5-triazine derivatives of formula (10): [Formula 10] HAS in which the radicals Ab A2 and A3, identical or different, are chosen from the groups of formula (ll) to (18): [Formula 11] [Formula 12] QH
[0136]
[0137] [Formula 15]
[0138] [Formula 16]
[0139] [Formula 17]
[0141] in which:
[0142] - Xa (each of the Xa can be identical or different) represents oxygen or -NH-;
[0143] - Ra (each of the Ras can be identical or different) is chosen from hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched CrCi8 alkyl radicals or linear or branched Ci-Ci8 hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical, preferably C6-Ci2; a C5-Ci2 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and having a methylated terminal OH group; a radical of the following formulas (19), (20) or (21):
[0144] [Formula 19]
[0145] [formula 20] A—O GH-CH-I Rs
[0146] [formula 21]
[0147] in which:
[0148] - R8 is hydrogen or a methyl radical;
[0149] - R9 is a Ci-C9 alkyl radical;
[0150] - q is an integer from 0 to 3;
[0151] - r is an integer from 1 to 10;
[0152] - A is a C4-C8 alkyl radical or a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical;
[0153] - B is selected from: a linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl radical; a radical C5-C8 cycloalkyl; an aryl radical possibly substituted by one or more CrC4 alkyl radicals;
[0154]
[0155]
[0156]
[0157]
[0158]
[0159]
[0160]
[0161]
[0162]
[0163]
[0164]
[0165]
[0166] - Ri denotes a C3-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical; a remainder of the formula -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OTi where Ti is a hydrogen atom or a CrC8 alkyl radical; a remainder of the following formula (22): [formula 22] in which: - R13 designates a covalent bond; a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl radical or a radical of formula -CmiH2mi-O- where mi is an integer equal to 1; 2; 3; 4; - pi is an integer equal to 0; 1; 2; 3; 4; 5; - the radicals R10, Ru and Rn, identical or different, designate an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8; an alkoxy radical in Ci-Ci8 or a radical of formula (23): [formula 23] --O—If —R,, where Ru is a Ci-C5 alkyl radical. - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl radical, or a CrC4 alkoxy radical; - R3 and R4, whether identical or different, designate a linear or branched Ci-C20 alkyl radical; - R5 represents a hydrogen atom or a phenyl radical possibly substituted by a halogen or by an alkyl radical in Ci-C4 or by an alkoxy radical in CrC4; - R6 is a linear or branched CrC8 alkyl radical, an alkoxy CrC3, it being understood that, in the latter case, two adjacent R6s of the same aromatic ring can together form a dioxy alkylidene group in which the alkylidene group contains 1 to 2 carbon atoms, OH, NHCOCH3 or NH2, - R7 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci0, a radical of formula -(CH2CHR5-O)niR8 where ni is a number from 1 to 16, or a radical of structure -CH2-CH-(OH)-CH2OTi with R8 and Ti having the same meaning indicated above;
[0167] - Z represents oxygen, sulfur, -NH- or -NR3 - with R3 representing a radical C1-C20 alkyl, linear or branched;
[0168] - p is 0, 1, 2 or 3;
[0169] Ai can also be a halogen, a -N(R3)2 radical, the two R3s together being able to form a ring of 4 or 5 carbon atoms, or a -OR3 group, R3 having the same definition as above.
[0170] A first, more particularly preferred family of 1,3,5-triazine derivatives of formula (10), notably described in document EP-A-0 517 104, corresponds to 1,3,5-triazines of formula (10) in which the Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (11) and have the following characteristics:
[0171] - one of the radicals Xa-Ra represents the radical -NH-Ra with Ra chosen from: a a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (19), (20) or (21) above wherein:
[0172] - B is a C1-C4 alkyl radical;
[0173] - R9 is the methyl radical;
[0174] - the other 2 Xa-Ra represent the radical -O-Ra with Ra, identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched Ci-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (19), (20) or (21) above in which:
[0175] - B is an alkyl radical in CrC4;
[0176] - R9 is the methyl radical.
[0177] A second, more particularly preferred family of compounds of formula (10) is that consisting of the 1,3,5-triazine derivatives described in document EP-A-0 570 838, which corresponds to the 1,3,5-triazines of formula (10) in which the Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (11) and exhibiting all of the following characteristics:
[0178] - one or two Xa-Ra represents the radical -NH-Ra, with Ra chosen from: a radical linear or branched CrCi8 alkyl; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (19), (20) or (21) above wherein:
[0179] - B is an alkyl radical in CrC4;
[0180] - R9 is the methyl radical;
[0181] the other two Xa-Ra being the -O-Ra radical with Ra, identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or CrCi8 branched alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (19), (20) or (21) above in which:
[0182] - B is an alkyl radical in CrC4;
[0183] - R9 is the methyl radical.
[0184] A particularly preferred 1,3,5-triazine of this second family is 2-[(p-(tert-butylamido)anilino]-4,6-bis-[(p-(2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine or "Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone" sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V and corresponding to the following formula:
[0185] [formula 24] HH N fi
[0186] wherein R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R denotes a tert-butyl radical.
[0187] A third preferred family of compounds of formula (8) usable within the scope of the present invention, and which is described in particular in US patent 4,724,137, which corresponds to 1,3,5-triazines of formula (10) in which A1, A2 and A3 are of formula (11) and have the following characteristics:
[0188] - Xa are identical and represent oxygen;
[0189] - Ra, identical or different and represent a C6-Ci2 alkyl radical or a radical polyoxyethylenated comprising 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and having a terminal OH group that is methylated.
[0190] A particularly preferred 1,3,5-triazine of this third family is 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-ethylhexyl-r-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-l,3,5-triazine or "Ethylhexyl Triazone" sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL T 150" by BASF and corresponds to the following formula:
[0191] [formula 25]
[0192] in which R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical.
[0193] A fourth preferred family of compounds usable within the framework of the present invention, and which is described in particular in patent application EP-A-0775698, is that of the 1,3,5-triazines corresponding to the formula (10) in which the Ai and A2 are of formula (12) and A3 is of formula (18) and having all of the following characteristics: identical or different, denote a C3-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical or a remainder of formula -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OTi where Ti is a hydrogen atom or a CrC8 alkyl radical; R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ci0 alkyl radical.
[0194] A particularly preferred 1,3,5-triazine of this fourth family is 2,4-bis {[4-2-ethyl-hexyloxy)]-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxy-phenyl)-1,3,5-triazine or "Anisotriazine" sold under the trade name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS and corresponds to the following formula:
[0195] [formula 26]
[0196] in which R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical.
[0197] A fifth preferred family of compounds usable within the scope of the present invention, and which is described in particular in patent applications EP507691, EP507692, EP790243 and EP944624 and whose technical content is fully integrated into this description is that of the 1,3,5-triazines corresponding to formula (10) in which the Al, A2 and A3 are of formulas (16) to (20) cited previously.
[0198] Examples of such usable compounds with formulas include:
[0199] - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino diisobutyl benzahnalonate)-s-triazine,
[0200] - di(2-ethylhexyl))-s-triazine 2,4,6-tris-(4'-aminobenzahnalonate,
[0201] - di(2-ethylhexyl))-6-chloro-s-triazine 2,4,6-tris-(4'-aminobenzahnalonate,
[0202] - di(2-ethylhexyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate 2,4,6-tris-(4'-aminobenzahnalonate of 2-ethylhexyl)-s-triazine,
[0203] - diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzahnalonate)-6-butoxy-s-triazine,
[0204] - diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzahnalonate)-6-(2-ethylhexylamino)-s- triazine,
[0205] - 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzylidene camphor)-6-(2-ethylhexyl-amino)-s-triazine,
[0206] - 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzylidene camphor)-6-(4'-aminobenzahnalonate of diisobutyl)-s-triazine,
[0207] - 2,4,6-tris(4'-diethyl benzahnalonate)-s-triazine,
[0208] - 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino diisopropyl benzahnalonate)-s-triazine,
[0209] - 2,4,6-tris(4'-dimethyl benzahnalonate)-s-triazine,
[0210] - 2,4,6-tris(ethyl α-cyano-4-aminocinnamate)-s-triazine.
[0211] - 2,4,6-tris[(3'-benzotriazol-2-yl-2'-hydroxy-5'-methyl) phenylamino]-s-triazine,
[0212] - 2,4,6-tris[(3'-benzotriazol-2-yl-2'-hydroxy-5'-ter-octyl) phenylamino]-s-triazine.
[0213] A particularly preferred 1,3,5-triazine of this fifth family is 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine which corresponds to the following formula:
[0214] [formula 27]
[0215] The triazine UV filter(s) are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably of 0.2% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] Polysaccharides modified by hydrophobic chains
[0217] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide, preferably a fructan.
[0218] Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a chain of anhydrofructose units, optionally associated with one or more saccharide residues other than fructose. Fructans may be linear or branched. Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source, or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis, or hydrolysis, particularly enzymatic hydrolysis. Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of 2 to about 1000, and preferably of 2 to about 60.
[0219] Three groups of fructans are distinguished. The first group corresponds to products in which the fructose units are mostly linked by [3-2-1] bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.
[0220] The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by [3-2-6] bonds. These products are levans.
[0221] The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, that is to say having [3-2-6 and [3-2-1] chains. These are essentially branched fructans such as graminans.
[0222] The fructans preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin can be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia, or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained, for example, from chicory.
[0223] The fructans, in particular the inulins, used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobically modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.
[0224] The hydrophobic chains that can be grafted onto the main fructan chain may, in particular, be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, or alkoylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups; or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may, in particular, comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulfonamide functions such as including methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or aromatic divalent groups such as phenylene.
[0225] In particular, fructan, especially inulin, has a degree of polymerization of 2 to about 1000 and preferably of 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.
[0226] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO-O in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 32 carbon atoms or a hydrophobic alkyl C4-C32 ester group, i.e. an -OCO-R group, R being a C4-C32 alkyl.
[0227] Advantageously, the hydrophobic ester group is a C6-C20 alkyl ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C8-C20 alkyl ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C20 alkyl ester group. More preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C18 alkyl ester group.
[0228] According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains are alkylcarbamate groups in particular alkyl C8-C18 carbamate and more particularly laurylcarbamate.
[0229] These hydrophobic groups are obtained in particular from the reaction of the hydroxyl groups of the starting inulin with either an isocyanate RN=C=O (to form a carbamate group), or an acid R-COOH or acid chloride R-COC1 (to form an ester group).
[0230] In particular, by way of illustration and not limitation of the hydrophobic modified inulins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INST by Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by Ciba may be cited; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by Engelhard; and lauryl carbamate inulin such as that sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by CREACHEM.
[0231] In particular, the hydrophobic modified fructan is a lauryl carbamate-grafted inulin, notably obtained from the reaction of lauryl isocyanate with an inulin, particularly one derived from chicory. An example of such compounds is the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM.
[0232] The hydrophobic modified polysaccharide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OILY PHASE
[0233] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.
[0234] For the purposes of the invention, "oil phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fats used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
[0235] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0236] The oily phase may include, in addition to the merocyanine filter(s) and the complementary lipophilic filters according to the invention, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.
[0237] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0238] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more carboxy, ester, ether, or hydroxy functions.
[0239] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0240] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporate upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0241] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). Hydrocarbon oils
[0242] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention include:
[0243] (i) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
[0244] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0245] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such Vaseline, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof;
[0246] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is >10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of Ci2-Ci5 alcohols such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; citrates or tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates in the C12-C13 group such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates in the C14-C15 group such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; ,
[0247] (v) fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
[0248] (vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
[0249] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC®" by the company Cognis;
[0250] and their mixtures.
[0251] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, glyceride triesters, and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, benzoate of Ci2-Ci5 alcohols, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, will be preferred more particularly.
[0252] Examples of usable volatile hydrocarbon oils according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters of isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0253] Also citeable are the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves derived from coconut or palm oil. Examples include the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO 2008 / 155059. Also citeable are n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM), sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97® respectively, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0254] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, may also be used. In one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Silicone oils
[0255] Non-volatile silicone oils may be selected in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0256] Examples of volatile silicone oils include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 × 10⁶ m² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil usable in the invention, we may mention in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0257] One can also mention volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils with the following general formula:
[0258] [formula 28] CH
[0259] where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[0260] Among the general formula oils (24), the following may be mentioned:
[0261] 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
[0262] 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
[0263] 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
[0264] corresponding to oils of formula (24) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group. Fluoride oils
[0265] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
[0266] An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in the oil, other fatty substances.
[0267] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
[0268] - a fatty acid selected from fatty acids comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
[0269] - a wax selected from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, wax of Camauba or Candellila, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or waxes microcrystalline, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
[0270] - a gum selected from silicone gums (dimethiconol),
[0271] - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,
[0272] - and their mixtures.
[0273] Preferably, the overall oily phase, including all lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. AQUEOUS PHASE
[0274] The composition according to the invention may in addition comprise at least one aqueous phase.
[0275] The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.
[0276] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water selected from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.
[0277] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0278] According to a preferred embodiment, ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof may be used in particular.
[0279] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIVES
[0280] Additional UV filters
[0281] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition, contain one or more complementary UV filters, different from the merocyanine derivatives and triazine derivatives as described above, selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.
[0282] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0283] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.
[0284] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.
[0285] Complementary organic UV filters are selected in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;α-Alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EPI33981 and mixtures thereof.
[0286] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.
[0287] Cinnamic compounds:
[0288] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold, among other things, under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products
[0289] Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate
[0290] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise
[0291] DEA Methoxycinnamate,
[0292] Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
[0293] Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.
[0294] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
[0295] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,
[0296] Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
[0297] Para-aminobenzoic compounds:
[0298] PABA,
[0299] Ethyl PABA,
[0300] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
[0301] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold notably under the name “ESCALOL 507®” by ISP,
[0302] Glyceryl PABA,
[0303] PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF.
[0304] Salicylic compounds:
[0305] Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona / EM Industries,
[0306] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS®" by Symrise,
[0307] Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL ®" by SCHER,
[0308] TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise.
[0309] Compounds [> [> -diphenylacrylate:
[0310] Octocrylene sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL N 539®" by BASF,
[0311] Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF.
[0312] Benzophenone compounds:
[0313] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400®" by BASF,
[0314] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D 50®" by BASF,
[0315] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,
[0316] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS 40®" by BASF,
[0317] Benzophenone-5,
[0318] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,
[0319] Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamid,
[0320] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name* UVINUL DS 49® by BASF,
[0321] Benzophenone-12,
[0322] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus B®" by BASF,
[0323] 1, l'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]- methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form.
[0324] Benzylidene camphor compounds:
[0325] 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD®" by CHIMEX,
[0326] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300®" by MERCK,
[0327] Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,
[0328] Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,
[0329] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,
[0330] Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX.
[0331] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:
[0332] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.
[0333] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:
[0334] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER.
[0335] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
[0336] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0337] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
[0338] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, particularly in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 µm and above preferably from 0.01 to 2 µm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 µm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6HiO5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6HiO5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, notably sold under the trade name "TINOSORB M®" by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size that varies from 0.02 to 2 µm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 µm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 µm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2O)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392.
[0339] Anthranilic compounds:
[0340] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA®” by Symrise.
[0341] Imidazoline compounds:
[0342] Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
[0343] Benzalmalonate compounds:
[0344] Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.
[0345] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds:
[0346] -1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0347] Benzoxazole compounds:
[0348] 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.
[0349] The preferred additional organic filters are selected from:
[0350] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
[0351] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
[0352] Homosalate,
[0353] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
[0354] Octocrylene,
[0355] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
[0356] Benzophenone-3,
[0357] Benzophenone-4,
[0358] Benzophenone-5,
[0359] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,
[0360] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
[0361] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
[0362] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,
[0363] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,
[0364] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
[0365] Polysilicone-15,
[0366] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,
[0367] and their mixtures.
[0368] The additional organic filters that are particularly preferred are chosen from:
[0369] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
[0370] Homosalate,
[0371] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
[0372] Octocrylene,
[0373] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,
[0374] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
[0375] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
[0376] and their mixtures.
[0377] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.
[0378] They may be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.
[0379] Such metallic oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, we can mention the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK and DEGUSSA.
[0380] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0381] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0382] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
[0383] - with silica such as the "SUNVEIL®" product from the company IKEDA,
[0384] - of silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA,
[0385] - of silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®” and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE,
[0386] - of alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14 / 4" from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
[0387] - of alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK,
[0388] - of silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ®" of the TAYCA company,
[0389] - of alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" from the company TAYCA,
[0390] - of iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" from the company TAYCA,
[0391] - of zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" of the company TAYCA,
[0392] - of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®”, “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®” from the company TAYCA,
[0393] - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product “STT-30-DS®” from the company TITAN KOGYO,
[0394] - of silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" of the SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS company,
[0395] - of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,
[0396] - of triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from the company TITAN KOGYO,
[0397] - of stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA,
[0398] - of sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" from the company TAYCA.
[0399] - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name “T 805®” by the company DEGUSSA SILICES,
[0400] - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name commercial product "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company CARDRE,
[0401] - the anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES,
[0402] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminium stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by CRODA,
[0403] - TiO2 coated with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA),
[0404] - lauroyl lysine-coated TiO2 sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50,
[0405] - TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.
[0406] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, these doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersing agents, such as a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester like TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles includes at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRL PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA. .
[0407] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by WACKHER under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW®", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".
[0408] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example:
[0409] - those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart;
[0410] - those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis;
[0411] - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0412] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0413] - those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane);
[0414] - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the Nanophase Technologies company (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
[0415] - those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0416] - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);
[0417] - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated by silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
[0418] - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone);
[0419] - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by Fuji Company Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
[0420] - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0421] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC.
[0422] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name "TY-220®".
[0423] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)”, "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by BASF under the name "TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE®".
[0424] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.
[0425] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
[0426] The additional UV filters according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additives
[0427] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular selected from organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, actives, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.
[0428] Among the organic solvents, we can mention alcohols other than C1-C4 mono-alkanols as defined above and in particular short-chain C2-C8 polyols, such as glycerin, diols such as caprylyl glycol, pentanediol-1,2, propanediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
[0429] Examples of thickeners include carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen polymers such as Pemulen TRI® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / Ci3-i4 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by Seppic; and 2-acid polymers and copolymers. acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hosfacerin AMPS®" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by SEPPIC; cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides, and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, silicones polyethers and cationic silicones and their mixtures.
[0430] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0431] Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides.
[0432] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more alkalizing agents selected from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.
[0433] In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 11 approximately, and even more particularly from 6 to 8.5.
[0434] Among the active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials such as skin, lips, scalp, hair, eyelashes or nails, examples include vitamins and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in mixtures; antioxidants; free radical scavengers; anti-pollution agents; self-tanning agents; anti-glycation agents; soothing agents; deodorant agents; essential oils; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation; agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation; agents that stimulate keratinocyte proliferation; muscle relaxants; cooling agents; firming agents; mattifying agents; depigmenting agents; pro-pigmenting agents; keratolytic agents; desquamating agents; moisturizing agents; anti-inflammatory agents;antimicrobial agents; slimming agents; agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells; repellent agents against; insects; substance P or CRGP antagonists; anti-hair loss agents; anti-wrinkle agents; anti-aging agents.
[0435] A person skilled in the art will choose the said active ingredient(s) according to the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails.
[0436] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible complementary compound(s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s). Galenic Forms
[0437] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can in particular be in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / W, W / W / W or W / O / W) such as a cream, a lotion or a cream-gel.
[0438] They can also be in anhydrous form, such as an oil. An "anhydrous composition" is defined as a composition containing less than 1% water by weight, or even less than 0.5% water, and in particular one that is water-free, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. They may also be packaged in aerosol form and be presented as a foam or spray.
[0439] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller type, rotor-stator and HHP.
[0440] To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio >25), it is possible to carry out the dispersion in concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.
[0441] It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with droplet sizes down to 100 nm.
[0442] Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or W / O).
[0443] Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol, or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols like the cyclomethicone-dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the Dow Corning company; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt company and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by Goldschmidt company. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be selected from the group comprising alkyl polyol esters.
[0444] We can also mention non-siliconized emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.
[0445] Examples of alkylated polyol esters include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.
[0446] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
[0447] For O / W emulsions, examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants include polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters (particularly polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated); oxyalkylated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters (particularly polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated), possibly in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate;Fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside possibly in mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be; in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92 / 06778.
[0448] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may include a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
[0449] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for the makeup of the skin and / or lips.
[0450] Another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular skincare products, sun protection products and makeup products.
[0451] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as a makeup product.
[0452] Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material consisting of applying to the surface of said keratinous material at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0453] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as skincare and / or sun protection products for the face and / or body, with a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as lotions, creams of varying textures, gel-creams, and pastes. They can optionally be packaged in aerosol form and presented as a foam or spray.
[0454] The compositions according to the invention, in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions conforming to the invention, are applied to the skin or hair as fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers," aerosol containers comprising a propellant, and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in US patents 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
[0455] Aerosol compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, and trichlorofluoromethane. These are preferably present in quantities ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. TOGETHER
[0456] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic set comprising:
[0457] i) a container delimiting one or more compartment(s), said container being closed by a closing element and possibly not being watertight; and
[0458] ii) a makeup and / or skincare composition according to the invention disposed inside said compartment(s).
[0459] The container may, for example, be in the form of a pot or a case.
[0460] The closure element may be in the form of a lid comprising a hood mounted movable by translation or pivoting relative to the container housing the said makeup and / or skincare composition(s). EXAMPLES
[0461] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients in the compositions are given as a percentage by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0462] Example A1: Preparation of compound (14)
[0463] [formula XIV]
[0464] 122.23 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 75.45 grams of ethyl cyanoacetate in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.
[0465] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. [Tables 3] Example Base Solvent Example ALI DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A 1.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A 1.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A 1.4 3-Methoxypropylamine tert-amyl alcohol Example A 1.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A 1.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A 1.7 Solvent-free 3-Methoxypropylamine Example A 1.8 N-Morpholine isopropanol
[0466] The completion of the alkylation reaction can be monitored, for example, by methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC.
[0467] 162.30 grams of compound (14) are obtained in the form of a brown oil.
[0468] After crystallization, the product is obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0469] Melting point: 92.7 °C.
[0470] Example A2: Preparation of compound (15)
[0471] [Formula XV]
[0472] 101.00 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 86.00 grams of 2-cyano-N-(3-methoxy-propyl)-acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.
[0473] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. [Tables4] Example Solvent Base Example A2.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene)dimethylacetamide Example A2.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A2.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A2.4 3-Methoxypropylamine tert-amyl alcohol Example A2.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A2.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A2.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free
[0474] The crude product (15) is obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.
[0475] After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / methanol) 99 / 1), 81.8 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0476] Melting point: 84.7-85.3 °C.
[0477] Example A3: Preparation of compound (27)
[0478] [formula XXVII]
[0479] 13.09 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 10.12 grams of isobutyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.
[0480] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used.
[0481] [Tables5] Example Solvent Base Example A3.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene)dimethylacetamide Example A3.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A3.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A3.4 N-Methylmorpholine tert-amyl alcohol Example A3.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A3.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A3.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free
[0482] 15.97 grams of crude product (27) are obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.
[0483] After silica gel column chromatography (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
[0484] Melting point: 96.3 °C.
[0485] Example A4: Preparation of compound (25)
[0486] [formula XXV]
[0487] 148.4 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-l-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 grams of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.
[0488] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the table below are used. [Tables] Example Solvent Base Example A4.1 DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A4.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A4.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A4.4 N-Methylmorpholine tert-amyl alcohol Example A4.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A4.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A4.7 Solvent-free 3-Methoxypropylamine
[0489] Examples of formulations
[0490] Method of preparing compositions
[0491] The aqueous phase A is prepared by mixing the raw materials and heating at 70 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. The same procedure is followed for phase B, heating at 80 °C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. The emulsion is prepared by introducing phase B into phase A while stirring vigorously for 10 minutes. The heating is then stopped. Phase C is introduced, followed by phase D, and the mixture is allowed to homogenize for 10 minutes. Phase E is then added. Finally, phase F is introduced at 25 °C. The final emulsion is characterized by droplets ranging from 1 µm to 20 µm.
[0492] Protocol for evaluating the staining power of UVA filters
[0493] The product is transferred onto a white cotton fabric using a 25 cm² PMMA plate. The deposited quantity is equivalent to 2 mg / cm². The fabric is then left to air dry for 24 hours and subsequently machine-washed (Color program 40°C - duration 1h30) with liquid detergent. Stain resistance is assessed 24 hours after washing by measuring the AE value obtained using a colorimeter (KONICA MINOLTA SENSING EUROPE BV).
[0494] The results are expressed in the (L, a, b) system in which L represents luminance, a represents the red-green axis (-a = green, +a = red) and b represents the yellow-blue axis (-b = blue, +b = yellow).
[0495] For the evaluation of stain reduction, the AE is considered, which measures the total color change between an area stained by the formula and an unstained area of the washed and dried fabric. The lower the AE, the less staining the fabrics are caused by the product.
[0496] AE is calculated from the variations AL, Aa and Ab according to the following formula:
[0497] [Math.l]
[0498] In this formula, AL represents the difference between the value of L of the unstained area and the value of L of the stained area after 24 hours after washing the fabric, Aa represents the difference between the value of a of the unstained area and the value of a of the stained area after 24 hours after washing the fabric and Ab represents the difference between the value of b of the unstained area and the value of b of the stained area after 24 hours after washing the fabric.
[0499] 3 measurements are taken on each piece of fabric. The operation is repeated on 3 pieces of fabric. The AE values given below correspond to the average of the results obtained on the 3 pieces of fabric.
[0500] Comparative Example 1 - Compositions 1 to 5
[0501] The following compositions 1 to 5 were prepared according to the protocol detailed above. [Paintings?] Phase Ingredient 1 (reference) 2 (invention) 3 (invention) A WATER 30 30 30 A Preservative(s) QS QS QS A INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE (INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTA MATE (EUMULGIN SG from BASF) 0.3 0.3 0.3 B ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE (ELDEW SL-205 from AJINOMOT 0) 10 10 10 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2.5 2.5 7 B PEG-8 10 10 10 B BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 3 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE (PARS01 1789 from DSM) 0 0 0 B METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CY CLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOX YETHYLCYANOACETATE (compound 25) 0 3 3 B DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYB ENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (UVINUL A+ from BASF) 0 0 0 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) C ETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 1.4 C WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 D CARBOMER 0.1 0.1 0.1 D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLY MER (ARISTOFLEX AVC de CLARI ANT) 0,35 0,35 0,35 D ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER de LUBRIZOL) 0,1 0,1 0,1 E POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0,016 0,016 0,016 F Charge(s) 1,5 1,5 1,5 G ALCOHOL DENAT. 15 15 15 [Tableaux8] Phase Ingrédient 4 (comparatif) 5 (comparatif) A EAU 30 30 A Conservateur(s) QS QS A INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE (INUTEC SL1 de CREACHEM) 0,3 0,3 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (EUMULGIN SG de BASF) 0,3 0,3 B ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINA TE (ELDEW SL-205 de AJINOMOTO) 10 10 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2,5 2,5 B PEG-8 10 10 B BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL M ETHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (TINOSORB S de BASF) 3 3 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLME THANE (PARSO1 1789 de DSM) 0 3 B METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLO HEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYL CYANOACETATE (composé 25) 0 0 B DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZ OYL HEXYL BENZOATE (UVINUL A+ de BASF) 3 0 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETE ARYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 68 de SEPPIC) 1,4 1,4 C EAU QSP 100 QSP 100 D CARBOMER 0,1 0,1 D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHY LTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER (ARISTOFLEX AVC de CLARIANT) 0,35 0,35 D ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACR YLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER de LU BRIZOL) 0,1 0,1 E POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0,016 0,016 F Charges 1,5 1,5 G ALCOHOL DENAT. 15 15
[0502] The results obtained with compositions 1 to 5 are described in the table below. [Tables 9] Composition 1 (reference) 2 (invention) 3 (invention) 4 (comparative) 5 (comparative) AE after washing 1.20 + 0.08 0.77 + 0.18 0.99 + 0.10 2.53 + 0.39 1.96 + 0.32
[0503] These results show that compositions 2 and 3 according to the invention in which METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE (compound 25) is used as a UVA filter leave less trace after washing than reference composition 1 which does not contain UVA filters or comparative compositions 4 and 5 in which DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (for example Uvinul A+ from BASF) or BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (for example Parsol 1789 from DSM) is used as a UVA filter.
[0504] Comparative example 2 - Compositions 6 to 9
[0505] The following compositions 6 to 9 were prepared according to the protocol detailed above. [Tables 10] Phase Ingredient 6 (reference) 7 (invention) A WATER 30 30 A Preservatives QS QS A INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE (INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (EUMULGIN SG from BASF) 0.3 0.3 B ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINA TE (ELDEW SL-205 from AJINOMOTO) 10 10 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2.5 2.5 B PEG-8 10 10 B ETHYLHEXYL TRAZONE (UVINUL T150 from BASF) 3 3 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE (PARSO1 1789 from DSM) 0 0 B METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLO HEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYL CYANOACETATE (compound 25) 0 3 B DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZ OYL HEXYL BENZOATE (UVINUL A+ from BASF) 0 0 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETE ARYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 C WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 D CARBOMER 0.1 0.1 D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHY LTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER (ARISTOFLEX AVC from CLARIANT) 0.35 0.35 D ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLA TE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER de LUBRI ZOL) 0,1 0,1 E POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0,016 0,016 F Charges 1,5 1,5 G ALCOHOL DENAT. 15 15 [Tableauxll] Phase Ingrédient 8 (comparatif) 9 (comparatif) A EAU 30 30 A Conservateurs QS QS A INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE (INUTEC SL1 de CREACHEM) 0,3 0,3 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (EUMULGIN SG de BASF) 0,3 0,3 B ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINA TE (ELDEW SL-205 de AJINOMOTO) 10 10 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2,5 2,5 B PEG-8 10 10 B ETHYLHEXYL TRAZONE (UVINUL T150 de BASF) 3 3 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METH ANE (PARSO1 1789 de DSM) 0 3 B METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLO HEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYL CYANOACETATE(composé 25) 0 0 B DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZ OYL HEXYL BENZOATE (UVINUL A+ de BASF) 3 0 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETE ARYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 68 de SEPPIC) 1,4 1,4 C EAU QSP 100 QSP 100 D CARBOMER 0,1 0,1 D AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHY LTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER (ARISTOFLEX AVC de CLARIANT) 0,35 0,35 D ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLA TE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER from LUBRI ZOL) 0.1 0.1 E POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.016 0.016 F Charges 1.5 1.5 G ALCOHOL DENAT. 15 15
[0506] The results obtained with compositions 6 to 9 are described in the table below. [Tables 12] Composition 6 (reference) 7 (invention) 8 (comparative) 9 (comparative) AE after washing age 0.60 + 0.19 0.71 + 0.09 1.06 + 0.27 1.19 + 0.17
[0507] These results show that composition 7 according to the invention in which METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE (compound 25) is used as a UVA filter and the reference composition 6 which does not contain UVA filters leave less trace after washing than the comparative compositions 8 and 9 in which DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (for example Uvinul A+ from BASF) or BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (for example Parsol 1789 from DSM) is used as a UVA filter.
Claims
1. Demands Composition, particularly cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: a) at least one merocyanin corresponding to the following formula (3), as well as their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E or E / Z: [Formula 3] in which: A is -O- or -NH; R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alcinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being able to be interrupted by one or more O groups; b) at least one triazine UV filter selected from the following 1,3,5-triazine derivatives of formula (10): [Formula 10] in which: 1) The radicals Al, A2 and A3 have the following formula (11): [formula 11] and exhibit all of the following characteristics: - one or two Xa-Ra represent the -NH-Ra radical, with Ra chosen from: a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical possibly substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of the following formulas (19), (20) or (21): [Formula 20] HAS : —O CH^ÇH- [formula 21] 8 —p O CH £- CH in which: - R8 is hydrogen or a methyl radical; - R9 is the methyl radical; - q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3; - r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - A is a C4-C8 alkyl radical or a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical; - B is a linear or C1-C4 branched alkyl radical; the other two Xa-Ra being the -O-Ra radical with Ra, identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical possibly substituted by one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals; a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical possibly substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of the following formulas (19), (20) or (21): [formula 19] [Formula 20] A—O CH-CH- 2 | [formula 21] in which: - R8 is hydrogen or a methyl radical; - R9 is the methyl radical; - q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3; - r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - A is a C4-C8 alkyl radical or a C5-C8 cycloalkyl radical; - B is a linear or C1-C4 branched alkyl radical; or 2) The radicals Al, A2 and A3 have the following formula (11): [formula 11] and exhibit all of the following characteristics: - Xa are identical and represent oxygen; - Ra, identical or different and represent a C6-C12 alkyl radical or a polyoxyethylenated radical comprising 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and whose terminal OH group is methylated; or 3) the radicals Ai and A2 are of formula (12) and A3 is of formula (18) as follows: [formula 12] OH [Formula 18] and exhibit all of the following characteristics: RB, whether identical or different, designates a C3-Ci8 alkyl radical; a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical; or a residue of the formula -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OT! where Ti is a hydrogen atom or a radical alkyl in CrC8; R7 denotes hydrogen atony, an alkyl radical in Ci-Cio; and c) at least one polysaccharide selected from the fructans, preferably inulin, modified by hydrophobic chains, the hydrophobic chains being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkoylene groups; cycloaliphatic divalent groups or organopolysiloxane chains comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulfonamide functions such as in particular methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or aromatic divalent groups such as phenylene.
2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the merocyanins of formula (3) are selected from the following compounds, as well as their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E or E / Z: [Tables2] 14 U ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methox ypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate 15 (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropy l)-2- {3- [(3-methoxypropyl)amin o]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}etha namide 25 |||||||||||||||||^O;d:^ lilililililil^iii 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1- ylidene} ethanoate 27 m O 2-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3 -methoxypropyl)amino] cyclohex-2-en-1 - ylidene} ethanoate 29 10111181111 2-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 - ylidene} ethanoate 3-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 - ylidene} ethanoate 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3 -methoxypropyl)amino] cyclohex-2-en-1 - ylidene} ethanoate [Revendication 3] Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 wherein the merocyanine of formula (3) is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate (25) in its E / Z geometric configuration of the following structure: and / or in its geometric E / E configuration of the following structure:
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 comprising 2-[(p-(tert-butylamido)anilino]-4,6-bis-[(p-(2'-ethylhexyl-r-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine corresponding to the following formula: [formula 24]
5. in which R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R denotes a tert-butyl radical. Composition according to any one of the claims 1 to 4 including 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-ethylhexyl-l'- oxycarbonyl)anilino]-l,3,5-triazine and corresponds to the following formula: [formula 25]
6. in which R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 comprising 2,4-bis {[4-2-ethyl-hexyloxy)]-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxy-phenyl)-1,3,5-triazine corresponding to the following formula: [formula 26] OME in which R' denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the inulin has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the hydrophobic chains are alkylcarbamate groups, in particular alkyl C8-C18 carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.
9. Use of at least one such merocyanin of formula (3) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3 for reducing staining of fabrics, in particular clothing, after washing.
10. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.