WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE OF WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION

The water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition addresses stability and sensory issues in tinted sunscreens by incorporating specific percentages of pigments, UV filters, and dimethicone, resulting in a stable, effective, and aesthetically pleasing product.

FR3119316B1Active Publication Date: 2025-05-30LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2021003498
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2021-01-29
Filing Date
2021-04-06
Publication Date
2025-05-30
Estimated Expiration
2041-04-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions face challenges in achieving stability, sensory properties, and preventing pigment migration and separation, especially in darker shades.

Method used

A water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition is developed, comprising 10.0 to 25.0% pigment, 15.0 to 35.0% UV filter, 8.0 to 20% dimethicone, and specified water to dimethicone ratio, which provides high SPF, UVA protection, and a velvety skin feel.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves stability across various temperatures, prevents pigment migration and separation, and offers a high covering effect similar to makeup, while maintaining a non-greasy and flexible texture.

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Abstract

WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE OF A WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION The present invention relates to novel water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic compositions, in particular for skin care, makeup, and photoprotection comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is specified. The present invention also relates to the use of a water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition, and to a method for manufacturing a water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition. Figure for abstract: None.
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Description

Title of the invention: WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, USE OF A WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A WATER-IN-OIL SUNSCREEN COSMETIC COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to novel water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, in particular for skin care, makeup and photoprotection, comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is specified. The present invention also relates to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, and to a method for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to decrease the risks of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet ("UV") radiation. There are typically two types of UVA / UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely, inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

[0003] The degree of UV protection provided by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is related to the amount, type and combination of UV filters contained therein. In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection from the sun, one measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, in particular a minimum UVA protection factor, while exhibiting a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.

[0004] In addition, it is also desirable to produce a cosmetic sunscreen composition that not only provides photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties. For example, it is desirable to produce a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition. having a high SPF, having the ability to tint the skin to correct imperfections, preferably having high coverage and a velvety feel on the skin, which is able to suit different skin tones, thus providing a makeup effect.

[0005] The degree of coverage provided by a tinted sunscreen cosmetic composition, when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition. The velvety feel on the skin is achieved by using silicone in the formulation, particularly dimethicone.

[0006] However, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, particularly because the presence of high amounts of pigments and UV filters in tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions results in stability problems in the formulation, particularly the migration of pigments to the surface of the composition, even creating discoloration spots on said surface. In addition, the silicone tends to separate from the composition, resulting in a separate phase, which is undesirable. These problems are intensified in darker shades of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions.

[0007] Water-in-oil emulsions are highly sought-after dosage forms, due to the ease with which they are applied to the skin and their sensory properties in cosmetic products in the field of care, in particular in cosmetic sunscreen compositions, in anti-aging compositions and in makeup, such as foundation.

[0008] Water-in-oil emulsions do not always exhibit, on the one hand, storage stability that is entirely satisfactory equally at low temperatures (namely: 4°C), at room temperature (namely: 25°C) and at high temperatures (namely: 45°C and 55°C) and, on the other hand, sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory, such as flexibility, a non-sticky effect, a non-greasy effect, a velvety feeling on the skin, a feeling of lightness after application, or good glide.

[0009] Therefore, a tinted water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition having a high SPF and a high amount of pigments, in order to provide a high color coverage performance when applied to the skin, is desired, which is stable, provides sensory properties that are fully satisfactory and does not exhibit migration and separation of pigments and silicone on the surface of the composition.

[0010] The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly succeeded in developing a tinted water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition having a high SPF, exhibiting a satisfactory balance between UVA and UVB protection and comprising high amounts of pigments, providing a high covering effect. similar to makeup on the skin, while maintaining good sensory attributes and stability. Summary of the invention

[0011] The present invention relates to novel water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen compositions, in particular for skin care, makeup and photoprotection, comprising (a) at least one pigment, (b) at least one UV filter, (c) dimethicone, and (d) water, wherein the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is specified. The present invention also relates to the use of a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition and to a method for manufacturing a water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0012] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0013] [Fig-1] [Fig.2] [Fig.3] Figs. 1, 2 and 3 demonstrate the results of the test of stability of Example 11, wherein [Fig.l] relates to the results of the prior art composition of Example 5, while Figs. 2 and 3 relate respectively to the results of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the invention according to Examples 8 and 10. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] In one embodiment, the water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

[0015] (a) from about 10.0 to about 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment;

[0016] (b) from about 15.0 to about 35.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter;

[0017] (c) from about 8.0 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and

[0018] (d) water

[0019] wherein the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is in a range of about 1:0.30 to about 1:0.55.

[0020] In one embodiment, the amount of the at least one pigment in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in a range of about 10.0 to about 20.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably about 15.0 to about 20.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in a range of about 20.0 to about 30.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably about 20.0 to about 25.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0022] Preferably, the amount of dimethicone in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in a range of about 10.0 to about 15.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably about 10.0 to about 13.0 wt.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is in a range of about 1:0.35 to about 1:0.50, more preferably about 1:0.40 to about 1:0.45.

[0024] Additionally, the water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fillers, preservatives, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Preferably, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from about 30 to about 80, more preferably from about 40 to about 70, even more preferably from about 60. In various embodiments, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may have an SPF of about 30, about 35, about 40, about 45, about 50, about 55, about 60, about 65, about 70, about 75, or about 80. In a preferred embodiment, the UVA protection factor provided by the composition of the present invention is at least 20.

[0026] The water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a daily skin product, particularly for skin care, makeup and photoprotection.

[0027] The present invention also relates to the use of said water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition for manufacturing a product for skin care, makeup and photoprotection having a high SPF and having high color coverage.

[0028] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a process for manufacturing said water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition, wherein the process comprises the steps of:

[0029] i) adding, to a main container, water, UV filter, dimethicone and optionally additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients at a temperature ranging from about 20 to about 60°C,

[0030] ii) adding, to the main container, the at least one pigment at a temperature in a range of about 25 to about 30°C.

[0031] In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the present invention, step (i) is carried out in two different sub-steps, in which:

[0032] ii) the ingredients of the aqueous phase are first mixed with each other in the main container, thereby forming an aqueous phase, and

[0033] i.2) the oily ingredients are then added to the aqueous phase, individually, thus forming an emulsion. Terms

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil composition" and the like refers to a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, also referred to as an inverse emulsion.

[0035] As used herein, the term "dimethicone" means at least one silicone ingredient having the INCI name dimethicone.

[0036] As used herein, the term "at least" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0037] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within, and combination of subranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value for deriving a subrange, etc.

[0038] The terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

[0039] The compositions and methods of the present disclosure may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or useful herein.

[0040] Throughout the disclosure, the term "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters AF represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof." The term "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Instead, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the expression "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."

[0041] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0042] Except in working examples, or if otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which may include + / - 10%, + / - 8%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, + / - 1% or + / - 0.5%.

[0043] Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0044] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting.

[0045] All components and elements positively set forth in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims. That is, the compositions of the present disclosure may be free or substantially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout this disclosure. Pigments

[0046] The water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one pigment.

[0047] The term "pigments" is intended to designate mineral or organic particles, white or colored, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, and mineral and / or organic.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0049] The term "mineral pigment" is intended to mean any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for example aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3 O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0050] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. Examples that may be mentioned include more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI by the company Miyoshi Kasei. Other preferred examples include titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0051] For the purposes of the invention, the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0052] The coating may represent from about 0.1 to about 20.0% by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0053] The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with agitation of the particles and said surfactant, optionally with heating, before incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0054] The coating may be carried out, for example, by chemically reacting a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creating a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is particularly described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0055] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited at the surface of the pigments.

[0056] The amount of the at least one pigment in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention is in a range of about 10.0 to about 25.0 wt. %, preferably about 10.0 to about 20.0 wt. %, more preferably about 15.0 to about 20.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition. UV filters

[0057] The UV filters of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients and water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients. Suitable non-limiting organic UV filters of the present invention are described in more detail below.

[0058] Organic oil-soluble sunscreen ingredient

[0059] “Oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any compound organic for blocking UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in molecular or miscible form in an oil phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g. in micellar form) in a fatty oil phase.

[0060] Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, particularly those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (P AB A) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071, US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844;blocking polymers and blocking silicones such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; alkyl-styrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EPI 133981, merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04 / 006878, WO 05 / 058269 and WO 06 / 032741; and mixtures thereof.

[0061] As examples of other suitable oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those designated below by their INCI name:

[0062] Cinnamic derivatives:

[0063] Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

[0064] Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:

[0065] Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

[0066] Salicylic derivatives:

[0067] Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol salicylate, and TEA salicylate.

[0068] Beta, beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives:

[0069] Examples of suitable beta, beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, octocrylene and etocrylene.

[0070] Benzophenone derivatives:

[0071] Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate +” or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.

[0072] Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:

[0073] Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, 3-benzylidene camphor manufactured, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor manufactured, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor manufactured.

[0074] Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:

[0075] Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion.

[0076] Triazine derivatives:

[0077] Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine blocking agents described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, Patent Application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, USA (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-l,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-l,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985).

[0078] Anthranilic derivatives:

[0079] An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, menthyl anthranilate.

[0080] Imidazoline derivatives:

[0081] An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.

[0082] Benzalmalonate derivatives:

[0083] An example of a suitable benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, a polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, e.g., polysilicone-15.

[0084] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:

[0085] An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.

[0086] Benzoxazole derivatives:

[0087] An example of a suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

[0089] “Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient” means any compound organic for blocking UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in molecular or miscible form in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g. in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0090] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Ecamsule), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PA B A), 4-bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Bisdisulizole disodium), and tris-biphenyl triazine; their derivatives and corresponding salts; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European patent application EP1990372 A2; and cationic quaternary salts of cinnamido amine and derivatives such as those described in US patent 5,601,811, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, for example methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine salts , bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferably used.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one UV filter of the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, homosalate, and mixtures thereof. In a more preferred embodiment, the at least one UV filter includes ethylhexyl salicylate in a concentration of not more than about 5.0% by weight.

[0093] The amount of the at least one UV filter in the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is preferably in a range of about 15.0 to about 35.0 wt. %, more preferably about 20.0 to about 30.0 wt. %, even more preferably about 20.0 to about 25.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition. Water

[0094] The water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or deionized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avène.The water may also include reconstituted thermal water, which is, so to speak, water including trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0095] In a preferred embodiment, the water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a weight ratio of water to dimethicone ranging from about 1:0.30 to about 1:0.55, more preferably from about 1:0.35 to about 1:0.50, even more preferably from about 1:0.40 to about 1:0.45. Additional ingredients

[0096] In addition to the essential components described above, the water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise any customary cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be selected in particular from active compounds, fillers, preservatives, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.

[0097] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or the quantity thereof in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not significantly, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0098] Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, styrene / acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] The composition may also include at least one silicone ingredient other than dimethicone, which may be caprylyl methicone, a vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer, among others.

[0100] Non-limiting examples of preservatives that may be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.

[0101] Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Suitable surfactants may be selected from a fatty acid ester of a polyol selected from polyhydroxystearic acid esters of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with 2 to 5 12-hydroxystearic acid units; (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 4 to 14 carbon atoms, and (iii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the fatty acid ester of a polyol is polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate. Suitable surfactants are also selected from polyethylene glycol esters, particularly PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.

[0103] In various embodiments, the solvents other than water are present in a concentration of about 0.5 to about 30.0 wt. %, or about 5.0 to about 25.0 wt. %, or about 5.0 to about 20.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the combinations and / or compositions of the present disclosure.

[0104] Suitable additional active compounds include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, magnesium sulfate, caffeine, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The composition may also comprise at least one filler, such as silica, polylactic acid, disteardimonium hectorite, mica and kaolin. Preferred embodiments of mica include synthetic mica having the INCI name synthetic fluorphlogopite.

[0106] Suitable vitamins according to the present invention may include niacinamide and tocopherol.

[0107] The additional ingredients may represent from about 10.0 to about 60.0%, such as from about 15.0 to about 55.0%, such as from about 15.0 to about 50.0%, or such as from about 15.0 to about 30.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0108] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following embodiments and examples. METHODS OF IMPLEMENTATION

[0109] An example of a suitable water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0110] - from 9.0 to 16.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of oxides of iron (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide;

[0111] - from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of synthetic fluorphlogopite;

[0112] - from 20.0 to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and homosalate;

[0113] - from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone;

[0114] - water, in which the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is in a range of 1:0.35 to 1:0.50;

[0115] - from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of propylene glycol;

[0116] - from 1.0 to 3.0% of magnesium sulfate and caffeine;

[0117] - from 0.1 to 2.0% of disteardimonium hectorite;

[0118] - from 0.1 to 1.5% of phenoxyethanol;

[0119] - from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a polymer vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosslink;

[0120] - from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

[0121] - from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of niacinamide and tocopherol; and

[0122] - from 5.0 to 15.0% of propanediol and ethanol.

[0123] Another suitable water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0124] - from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of oxides of iron (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide;

[0125] - from 8.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dioxide titanium (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide;

[0126] - from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of synthetic fluorphlogopite;

[0127] - from 20.0 to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and homosalate;

[0128] - from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone;

[0129] - water, in which the weight ratio between water and dimethicone is in a range of 1:0.35 to 1:0.50;

[0130] - from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of propylene glycol;

[0131] - from 1.0 to 3.0% of magnesium sulfate and caffeine;

[0132] - from 0.1 to 2.0% of disteardimonium hectorite;

[0133] - from 0.1 to 1.5% of phenoxyethanol;

[0134] - from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a polymer vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosslink;

[0135] - from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

[0136] - from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of niacinamide and tocopherol; and

[0137] - from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of propanediol and ethanol. EXAMPLES Examples 1 to 10

[0138] State-of-the-art water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic compositions are shown in Examples 1-5 and suitable water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are shown in Examples 6-10, as follows:

[0139] [Tables 1] c>. > Ex. 3 x,4| tx. S t:X and ■' AND, or cX- X gx.: w . SULWE DE K^NES^'M OÙ- 03 TSîT 1,7G "Où" 03 • > Where: "Où' TO*' -_________ IDE tETi HYDÎWVtíë TONWRePKWtf S,Sis G,(sû ■777 WK CH ARC F —————™ ■1ÏT W wfw OÏL 'W' 'KW “"Sÿrr m» TO3 TTÏ??' ïï;s) "JW SÎLW^e St: ....ü . 1 ...... 3...... Z.5 Where ___________ «1-&3 ros Tl"®' ÏÏ / jU oo Sv TîTü Th^ <1 fi-1 £?d,Çv TÏM i. / ç IHmWDia.-_ DOHYLWEKYLE ROOM, HCl_Hb_S BUTYLE ppoiY^YSRœvsTE^R^ peg^ss,TM.TM- MA&iÉiÀMŒ G-.Gû <uW 7,95 Où Où 3.0$ <03 S,DG toc 3.0 |TœOHHERGL Example 11 Stability Assays

[0140] A test was carried out to evaluate the stability of the water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetic composition of Examples 8 and 10 of the present invention, compared to the stability of a prior art composition of Example 5.

[0141] The compositions were placed in stability for 16 to 72 hours, after manufacture, in both cases contained in glasses, which were then subjected to: - 1 week at 55°C; - 1 month at 45°C; and - 2 months at 45°C.

[0142] After these periods, the compositions were then evaluated microscopically and macroscopically, in order to assess their stability and physical chemistry behavior.

[0143] The results have been demonstrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 in which [Fig.l] relates to the results of the state-of-the-art composition of Example 5 and Figs. 2 and 3 relate respectively to the results of the compositions of the invention according to Examples 8 and 10.

[0144] As can be seen, the compositions according to Examples 8 and 10 did not exhibit any formulation instability, nor any migration of pigments or dimethicone to the surface, while the composition of Example 5 was clearly unstable, with migration behavior of red iron oxide and dimethicone, resulting in a silicone supernatant.

Claims

Claims

1. A water-in-oil cosmetic sunscreen composition, in particular for skin care, makeup and photoprotection, comprising: (a) from 10.0 to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment; (b) from 15.0 to 35.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one UV filter; (c) from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of dimethicone; and (d) water wherein the weight ratio of water to dimethicone is in a range of 1:0.35 to 1:0.

50.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one pigment is selected from mineral pigments, preferably selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one pigment is in a range of 10.0 to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one UV filter is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a homosalate and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the at least one UV filter is in a range of 20.0 to 30.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of dimethicone is in a range of 10.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fillers, preservatives, silicones other than dimethicone, solvents other than water, surfactants, vitamins and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to claim 1, wherein it has a sun protection factor (SPF) in a range of 30 to 80.