A process for removing color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored with a specific hair coloring composition
A composition of poly(carbodiimide), surfactants, and polyols effectively removes color from previously colored capillary keratin fibers, improving homogeneity and resistance to shampooing.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021002355
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-03-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-03-10
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for an effective process to remove color from capillary keratin fibers, particularly hair, that have been previously colored using temporary coloring compositions containing pigments or direct dyes, as existing methods are unsatisfactory in terms of homogeneity, resistance, and reproducibility.
A process involving the application of a composition comprising poly(carbodiimide) compounds, surfactants, and polyols to capillary keratin fibers to effectively remove color, utilizing at least 0.5% surfactant and 35% polyol by weight, along with pigments or direct dyes.
The process achieves efficient color removal with good homogeneity and resistance to shampooing, addressing the limitations of existing methods.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Process for removing color from keratin hair fibers that have been previously colored with a specific hair coloring composition
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers, in particular previously colored hair, comprising applying at least one color removing composition to said previously colored keratin hair fibers using at least one hair coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, said color removing composition comprising at least one surfactant and at least one polyol.
[0002] The invention further relates to a composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, comprising:
[0003] - at least 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition to remove color;
[0004] - at least 35% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the weight of the composition position to remove the color.
[0005] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition for removing the color according to the invention, or as it is used in the context of the process according to the invention, on keratin fibers having been previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof. Technical field
[0006] In the field of coloring keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0007] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:
[0008] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0009] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not put in implements the oxidative condensation process and withstands 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing hair keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes;
[0010] c) temporary coloring which results in a modification of the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to another and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.
[0011] For this latter type of coloring, it is known to use colored polymers formed by grafting one or more dyes of azoic, triphenyl-methane, azine, indoamine or anthraquinone nature onto a polymer chain. These colored polymers are not entirely satisfactory, particularly in terms of the homogeneity of the coloring obtained, its resistance, not to mention the problems linked to their manufacture and particularly to their reproducibility.
[0012] Another coloring method consists of using pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of hair keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. This coloring method can also make it possible to have coloring compositions having the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous colored coating on the keratin fibers, in particular the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and various aggressions that the hair may undergo such as brushing and / or rubbing without damaging the hair.
[0013] However, there are no processes using compositions for removing color effectively from hair previously colored with this type of temporary hair coloring composition that remains after shampooing.
[0014] There therefore remains a need to have a method for effectively removing color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored using said permanent coloring compositions in shampoos.
[0015] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a method for treating hair keratin fibers making it possible to obtain very good efficiency with regard to color removal. Statement of the invention
[0016] This object is achieved with the present invention which relates to a method for removing the color from previously colored hair keratin fibers, comprising the application of at least one composition for removing the color from said hair keratin fibers using at least one hair coloring composition comprising:
[0017] - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and
[0018] - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures;
[0019] said composition for removing color comprising:
[0020] - at least one surfactant, preferably a cationic surfactant; and
[0021] - at least one polyol.
[0022] The invention also relates to a composition for removing the color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, comprising:
[0023] - at least 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant, preferably a ca surfactant tionic, relative to the total weight of the composition to remove the color;
[0024] - at least 35% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition position to remove the color.
[0025] The invention also relates to the use of the composition for removing the color according to the invention, or as it is used in the context of the process according to the invention, from hair keratin fibers previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
[0026] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0027] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0028] The expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0029] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within variants not illustrated.
[0030] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0031] For the purposes of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,
[0032] - an “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated linear or branched radical containing by example of 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
[0033] - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group;
[0034] - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;
[0035] - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0036] - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a hydrocarbon group mono- or bicyclic saturated cyclic, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbomyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobomyl group,
[0037] - a “cycloalkylene” radical denotes a divalent cycloalkyl group with “cy “cloalkyl” as defined above, preferably C3-C12;
[0038] - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;
[0039] - an “arylene” radical is a divalent aryl radical with “aryl” as defined above preferably arylene represents phenylene;
[0040] - a “heterocyclic” radical denotes a mono or poly hydrocarbon radical cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably from 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 links, preferably between 5 and 10 links such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;
[0041] - a “heterocycloalkylene” radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with “heterocyclic” as defined above;
[0042] - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined above cededly;
[0043] - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl” as defined previously;
[0044] - an “acyloxy” radical denotes an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as previously defined;
[0045] - a “reactive” group is a group capable of forming a bond covalent with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.
[0046] By "hair keratin fibers" is meant particularly human hair keratin fibers such as hair, and preferably hair. The terms "keratin fibers" and "hair keratin fibers" have the same meaning in the remainder of the description. Polycarbodiimide compound
[0047] As indicated previously, the hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodihnide compound.
[0048] The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.
[0049] The term “(poly)carbodiimide compound” means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups, in particular the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.
[0050] The term “carbodiimide group” means a divalent linear triatomic moiety of general formula - (N=C=N) -.
[0051] The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups different from the carbodiimide groups, chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0052] The reactive group(s) other than the carbodiimide groups may be pendant or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise one or more terminal groups other than the carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.
[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): 100541 OO ®' Jf r 1 1 R^Xf 'ti—A—^X? A? H W H. H
[0055] in which:
[0056] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0057] - Ri and R2 independently represent a group chosen from a hy radical carbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl groups,acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane; ,
[0058] - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and
[0059] - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
[0060]
[0061]
[0062] According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (Ia) below: GG (the)
[0063] in which:
[0064] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0065] - Yi and Y2 represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a C1-C36 saturated aliphatic group or a C6-C24 aromatic or alkylaromatic group, the aliphatic or aromatic group optionally comprising one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, or combinations thereof;
[0066] - Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or a group inert terminal;
[0067] - as an inert terminal group, Zi and Z2 can represent, independently, a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic group, C1 to C50, or an aromatic group C6 to C[8, said aliphatic and aromatic groups optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and combinations thereof, and the aliphatic or aromatic group may be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Z1 and Z2 comprise a CG linking group connecting Zi to Yi and Z2 to Y2, the CG group being able to be a single covalent bond, a saturated CC bond, an unsaturated covalent CC bond, an amide group, an ester group, a carbonate group, a thioester group, an ether group, a urethane group, a thiourethane group or a urea group;
[0068] - as a reactive terminal group, Zi and Z2 may be chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyal-kylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbomenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane;
[0069] - Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising units re repeating saturated aliphatic groups, linear or branched or cyclic, or aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repeating carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or combinations thereof;
[0070] - A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or radical linear, saturated, branched or cyclic having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally include one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom, the sulfur atom, or combinations thereof, in the aliphatic chain or the aromatic chain;
[0071] - r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;
[0072] - m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0073] - m' denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;
[0074] - n denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1 with m+ (m'*n ) > 2.
[0075] Preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Zi and Z2 represent, independently, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norborenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide groups such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane.
[0076] Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are for example marketed by the company Stahl BV, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLink10., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the series V-02, V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V-05.
[0077] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:
[0078] 0 (II), € ..Li X .... ' H « cx •. \ .. / H .X: R<'
[0079] in which
[0080] - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
[0081] - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally in interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0082] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes a whole number ranging from 1 to 3;
[0083] - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C 1 - Cig, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0084] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0085] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-,
[0086] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0087] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0088] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0089] The term “hydrocarbon radical” means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.
[0090] The hydrocarbon radical may comprise one or more cyclic groups.
[0091] The hydrocarbon radical may be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and / or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or cationic group(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic group(s), and / or comprising a metal ion which may be incorporated in the form of a salt.
[0092] The term "heteroatom(s)" means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.
[0093] Preferably, X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom.
[0094] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently selected from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] According to a preferred embodiment, R1 and R2 are independently chosen from the following groups (i) to (iv):
[0096] (i) the compound of formula (III) following:
[0097] R7-OC(O)-C(R8)(H)-(III),
[0098] in which R7 represents a C1-C3 alkyl group, and R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably R7 is a methyl and R8 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0099] (ii) the compound of formula (IV) following:
[0100] R9-[0-CH2-C(H)(Rio)]p-(IV),
[0101] wherein R9 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is a hydrogen atom or methyl and p is equal to 1.
[0102] (iii) the compound of formula (V) following:
[0103] (Rh)2N-CH2-C(H)(Ri2)- (V),
[0104] wherein Rn represents a CrC4 alkyl group and Rn represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group; preferably Ru is methyl, ethyl or butyl and Rn is a hydrogen atom or methyl.
[0105] (iv) the compound of formula (VI) following:
[0106] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0107] in which R[3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably Rn is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R[4 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.
[0108] Preferably, R1 and R2 independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0109] According to an alternative embodiment, Ri and R2 are different and one of the radicals Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical Ri or R2 represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.
[0110] Preferably, in formula (IV), R9 is methyl, ethyl or butyl and R10 is hydrogen or methyl and p is 1.
[0111] Preferably, in formula (VI), Rn is methyl, ethyl or butyl and RM is hydrogen atom or methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0112] According to another alternative embodiment, R1 and R2 are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which Rn represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R[4 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0113] Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0114] Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.
[0115] Preferably, w is equal to 1.
[0116] Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.
[0117] Preferably, Li is chosen from a divalent C 1 -C 10 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical. -Ci8 such as methylene, ethylene, and propylene, a C3-Cn cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene, and furanylene, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] For example, Li may be selected from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, norbornane diisocyanate, 2,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Preferably, Li is chosen from a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of formula (VII) following:
[0120]
[0121] Preferably, L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the formula (VIII) following:
[0122] (VIII).
[0123] According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C6-C14 arylene group, Li is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX):
[0124] “(IX).
[0125] As indicated previously, E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0126] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0127] in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
[0128] - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a hydrocarbon radical saturated divalent, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); and
[0129] - R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0130] Preferably, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-CM arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.
[0131] More preferably, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0132] Preferably, when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0133] Preferably, R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical such as phenylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Preferably, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0135] More preferably, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0136] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of the following formula (X):
[0137] (X),
[0138] wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms or a group aryl having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,
[0139] n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 100.
[0140] In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as defined above.
[0141] In this embodiment, the term “cycloalkyl group” is as defined above.
[0142] In this embodiment, n can denote an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.
[0143] According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XI):
[0144] g--—'CHj (XI), R -- --- ---Ôg
[0145] wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0146] “Alkyl group”, “cycloalkyl group” and “aryl group” are as defined above.
[0147] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (II) in which:
[0148] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0149] - R1 and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, al- esters hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl ethers and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferably, the compound of formula (VI) as described above in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, RM represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30
[0150] - n and z, when present, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0151] - Li, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent C1-C18, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
[0152] - A, when present, is chosen from an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical divalent C1-C18, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof, preferably a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical;
[0153] - E, when present, independently represents a group chosen from:
[0154] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0155] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0156] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5, when present, is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
[0157] - R6, when present, is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a cy radical C3-C12 alkylene, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0158] Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0159] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0160] - R1 and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, al- esters hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl ethers and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which one hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
[0161] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0162] - Li is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-Ci2 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-Ci4 arylene group, and mixtures thereof;
[0163] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0164] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0165] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0166] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
[0167] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or several heteroatom(s), and their mixtures.
[0168] More preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0169] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0170] - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
[0171] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1;
[0172] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical;
[0173] - E independently represents a group chosen from:
[0174] - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-;
[0175] in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
[0176] - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from an arylene radical in C6-Ci4, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and
[0177] - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
[0179] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0180] - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:
[0181] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI),
[0182] in which R13 represents a Cr-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a Cr-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a Cr-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
[0183] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0184] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0185] - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a radical C6-Ci4 arylene, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
[0186] Even more preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from: compounds of formula (I) in which:
[0187] - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom;
[0188] - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following:
[0189] R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI)
[0190] in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
[0191] - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
[0192] - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cyclo- heptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and
[0193] - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a radical linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of the following formula (XII):
[0196] in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such that methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0197] The total amount of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) present in the hair coloring composition preferably ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Coloring agent
[0198] As indicated previously, the hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises one or more pigments.
[0200] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.
[0201] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.
[0202] They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.
[0203] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.
[0204] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0205] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0206] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.
[0207] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, tri- phenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0208] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0209] As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
[0210] - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
[0211] - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
[0212] - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
[0213] - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
[0214] - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
[0215] - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
[0216] - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
[0217] - COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
[0218] - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0219] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0220] The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0221] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0222] Among the colorants, mention may be made of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the colorants known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).
[0223] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0224] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are understood to mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments that provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0225] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as pearlescent pigments, interference pigments or glitter.
[0226] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO 2-lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2 O3).
[0227] Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the; MERCK company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with a yellow sheen marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by MERCK company under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen marketed in particular by MERCK company under the name Xirona Silver and orangey pinkish-greenish gold mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by MERCK company under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
[0228] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0229] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0230] Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum may also be considered.
[0231] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.
[0232] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0233] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.
[0234] Reflective particles, whatever their shape, may exhibit a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0235] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0236] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.
[0237] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.
[0238] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.
[0239] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0240] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0241] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0242] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0243] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0244] We can also cite pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Pigments with Special effects also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0245] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.
[0246] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 qm.
[0247] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.
[0248] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used.
[0249] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0250] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
[0251] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
[0252] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0253] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.
[0254] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0255] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0256] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.
[0257] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.
[0258] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0259] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
[0260] - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0261] - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0262] - a Dimethicone treatment like Covasil 3.05 com surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0263] - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment as the surface treatment Covasil 4.05 marketed by LCW;
[0264] - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM com surface treatment marketed by LCW;
[0265] - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI com surface treatment Merchandised by Miyoshi;
[0266] - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment as the surface treatment FHC marketed by LCW;
[0267] - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment like the commercialized HS surface treatment by Miyoshi;
[0268] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0269] - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0270] - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0271] - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment as the surface treatment ASC marketed by Daito;
[0272] - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
[0273] - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment com sold by Daito;
[0274] - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0275] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in composition B.
[0276] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.
[0277] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0278] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone type dispersants. Among the dis- suitable Persians, we can cite:
[0279] - amino-silicones ie silicones comprising one or more amino groups such than those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,
[0280] - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
[0281] - polydimethylsiloxane silicones (PDMS) with carboxylic groups such as X- 22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0282] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type and are cationic.
[0283] Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0284] In one variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are mineral pigments.
[0285] Direct dye
[0286] The hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).
[0287] By "direct dye" we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber.
[0288] They may be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0289] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
[0290] The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (III) and (IV), the azo cationic dyes (V) and (VI) below:
[0291] TJ ' — V / T? ' (III),
[0292] Hét*-C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Aî» Q (IV),
[0293] Hét+-N=N-Ar: Q- ^V)'
[0294]
[0295] formulas (III) to (VI) in which:
[0296] - Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with a ca charge endocyclic cationic such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially by at least one (CrC8)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0297] - Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with a cationic charge exocyclic preferentially ammonium particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;
[0298] - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferentially by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (Ci-C8)alkyl optionally substituted, ii) (Ci-C8)alkoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino optionally substituted or Ar represents a julolidine group;
[0299] - Ar” represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such that phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (CrC8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (CrC8)alkoxy or phenyl groups;
[0300] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;
[0301] or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;
[0302] - Q- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
[0303] In particular, mention may be made of the direct dyes with endocyclic azo and hydrazono cationic charge of formula (III) to (VI) as defined above; more particularly, the direct cationic dyes with endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954; preferably the following direct dyes:
[0304]
[0305]
[0306] Formulas (VII) and (VIII) in which:
[0307] - R1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0308] - R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; and
[0309] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such that (Ci - C8)alkyl optionally substituted, (CrC8)alkoxy optionally substituted, (di)(CrC8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom,
[0310] - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,
[0311] - Q- is an anionic counterion as defined above particularly ha- lolide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
[0312] In particular, the dyes of formula (V) and (VI) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q' an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.
[0313] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
[0314] As acid dyes useful in the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulae (IX), (IX'), (X), (X'), (XI), (XI'), (XII), (XII'), (XIII), (XIV), (XV) and (XVI) below:
[0318] formulas (IX) and (IX') in which:
[0319] - R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'1O, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0320] - alkyl;
[0321] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0322] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0323] - nitro, nitroso;
[0324] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X' -C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X' ' - with R° representing an atom hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0325] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0326] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0327] - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, a aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
[0328] - R'”-S(O)2-X'- with R”' representing an alkyl, optionally aryl group substituted, X' as defined above;
[0329] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0330] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more selected groups among i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined previously;
[0331] - optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzo- group thiazolyl;
[0332] - cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;
[0333] - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; pre preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino groups;
[0334] - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'1O together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above;
[0335] - W represents a sigma o bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a radical divalent i) -NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together form with the carbon atom which carries them a cycloalkyl spiro; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;
[0336] it being understood that formulas (IX) and (IX') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO—, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0337] A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX) on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow;
[0338] et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (IX’) on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;
[0339] b) les colorants azo anioniques pyrrazolone de formule (X) et (X’) :
[0340]
[0342] formulas (X) and (X') in which:
[0343] - Rn, R12 and Rn, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, of halogen, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0344] - Rm represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group - C(O)O-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0345] - Rb represents a hydrogen atom;
[0346] - Ri6 represents an oxo group in which case R'i6 is absent, or else R[5 with R[6 together form a double bond;
[0347] - Rn and Ri8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:
[0348] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0349] - Ar-OS(O)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
[0350] - R19 and R2q, together form either a double bond or a benzo D' group, possibly substituted;
[0351] - R' 16, R' 19 and R'2O, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl or hydroxy group;
[0352] - R2i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or an alkoxy group;
[0353] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, are as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
[0354] - Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group;
[0355]
[0356]
[0357]
[0358]
[0359] - * ». „ „ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group; it being understood that formulas (X) and (X') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of rings D or E; preferably sodium sulfonate; Examples of dyes of formula (X) include: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and examples of dyes of formula (X') include: Acid Yellow 17; c) the anthraquinone dyes of formula (XI) and (XI'):
[0360] (XD,
[0361]
[0362]
[0363]
[0364]
[0365]
[0366] formulas (XI) and (XI') in which: - R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - hydroxy, mercapto; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0367]
[0368]
[0369]
[0370]
[0371]
[0372]
[0373]
[0374]
[0375]
[0376]
[0377]
[0378]
[0379]
[0380] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R28 and R29, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl; - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl; - Z represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; it being understood that formulas (XI) and (XI') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate; Examples of dyes of formula (XI) include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2; and examples of dyes of formula (XI') include: Acid Black 48; (d) nitrated dyes of formula (XII), (XII'): (XII),
[0381] (XII'), W—ALK—sa; M L u
[0382] formulas (XII) and (XII') in which:
[0383] - R3o, R3i and R32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, of halogen, or a group chosen from:
[0384] - alkyl;
[0385] - alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;
[0386] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0387] - nitro, nitroso;
[0388] - polyhaloalkyl;
[0389] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°; X, X' and X” as defined previously;
[0390] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;
[0391] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0392] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0393] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
[0394] - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R 30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;
[0395] - Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;
[0396] - W is as defined above; W particularly represents a group -NH-;
[0397] - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, C1-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
[0398] - n is 1 or 2;
[0399] - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;
[0400] - q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;
[0401] - u is 0 yes;
[0402] - when n is 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso group; particularly nitro ;
[0403] - when n is 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -S02- ;
[0404] - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0405] - ... present or absent represents a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above,
[0406] it being understood that formulas (XII) and (XII') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0407] As examples of dyes of formula (XII) we can cite: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (XII') we can cite: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;
[0408] e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XIII):
[0410] formula (XIII) in which:
[0411] - R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined above;
[0412] - R37, R38, R39, R40, R4i, R42, R43 and R^, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0413] - alkyl;
[0414] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0415] - (di)(alkyl)amino;
[0416] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0417] - nitro, nitroso;
[0418] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atony hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0419] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0420] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0421] - or two contiguous groups Ru with R2 or R42 with R3 or R3 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2 S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined above;
[0422] particularly R37 to Ro represent a hydrogen atom, and R4[ to R4, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O-)-, M+; and when R3 with R^ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by a (O)2S(O-)- group;
[0423] it being understood that at least one of the cycles G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulfonate.
[0424] As examples of dyes of formula (XIII) we can cite: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0425] f) dyes derived from xanthene of formula (XIV):
[0427] formula (XIV) in which:
[0428] - R5, R46, R7 and R48, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
[0429] - R49, R5o, R51 and R52, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, of halogen, or a group chosen from:
[0430] - alkyl;
[0431] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0432] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0433] - nitro, nitroso;
[0434] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0435] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0436] particularly R49, R50, R51 and R52 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
[0437] - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
[0438] - L represents an alcoholate O-, M+; a thioalcoholate S-, M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
[0439] - L' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an optionally substituted aryl group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously;
[0440] - Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
[0441] - M+ is as defined previously.
[0442] As examples of dyes of formula (XIV) we can cite: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;
[0443] g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XV):
[0444] (XV),
[0445] formula (XV) in which:
[0446] - R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group chosen from:
[0447] - alkyl;
[0448] - alkoxy, alkylthio;
[0449] - hydroxy, mercapto;
[0450] - nitro, nitroso;
[0451] - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing an atony hydrogen, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
[0452] - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counterion ca tionic;
[0453] - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously;
[0454] - G represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re such that defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;
[0455] - Ri and Rh, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a alkyl group;
[0456] it being understood that formula (XIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0457] As examples of dyes of formula (XV) we can cite: Acid Blue 74;
[0458] h) quinoline-derived dyes of formula (XVI):
[0460] formula (XVI) in which:
[0461] - R6i represents a hydrogen atom, halogen or an alkyl group;
[0462] - R62, R63, and RM, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (O)2S(O-)-, M+ group with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0463] or R6[ with R62, or R6[ with R64, together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O)2S(O-)-, M+ groups with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
[0464] it being understood that formula (XVI) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2 S(O-)-, M+ preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0465] As examples of dyes of formula (XVI) we can cite: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
[0466] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.
[0467] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0468] The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0469] The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0470] The direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent
[0471] The hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.
[0472] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-carboxylic agent” means an agent which does not comprise a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO) function.
[0473] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickening agent” means a compound which increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).
[0474] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from non-carboxylic anionic polymers, more preferably from anionic polymers with sulfonic group(s).
[0475] For the purposes of the invention, the term “anionic polymer” means a polymer comprising one or more anionic or anionizable groups and not comprising a cationic or cationizable group.
[0476] Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form.
[0477] These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
[0478] These polymers may be associative or not, preferably non-associative.
[0479] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0480] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0481] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0482] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0483] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(CrC22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido-(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0484] More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22) alkylsulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0485] More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.
[0486] Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, mention may be made of crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, and mention may be made in particular of product described in example 1 of document EP 503 853 and reference may be made to this document with regard to these polymers.
[0487] Mention may also be made of copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or its salts and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the compound sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
[0488] The associative AMPS polymers may in particular be chosen from random associative AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acid derivatives, such as their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0489] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from associative copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
[0490] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acid derivatives, in particular their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0491] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, patent US 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:
[0492] - “Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. » ;
[0493] - “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704”;
[0494] - “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;
[0495] - “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.
[0496] Among these polymers, we can cite:
[0497] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899;
[0498] - terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US patent 5089578.
[0499] Mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
[0500] Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from the sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
[0501] Advantageously, the total amount of the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Silicone
[0502] The hair coloring composition may further comprise at least one silicone.
[0503] The silicone(s) are different from the compound(s) having at least one carboxylic acid group as defined below.
[0504] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises at least one silicone chosen from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures thereof.
[0505] Silicones can be solid or liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), volatile or non-volatile.
[0506] The silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.
[0507] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
[0508] Preferably, the hair coloring composition contains one or more silicones that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0509] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0510] We can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
[0511] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type of structure chemical: [°5121 pO-D'--------D-D'—। CH, 1 CH, I ' I ■ withD: —Si-O— with DU -Si-O — CH,
[0513] Preferably cyclomethylsiloxane.
[0514] We can cite the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
[0515] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
[0516] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0517] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.
[0518] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organo-polysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated groups. Preferably, the non-volatile silicones are chosen from poly dimethyl / methyl-siloxanes which are optionally oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated.
[0519] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.
[0520] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(C12)-methicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200; - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; we can cite the products marketed under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company GENESEE, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company DOW CORNING; - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl function; - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732. - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255", - hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; we can cite, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company DOW CORNING.
[0521] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0522] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.
[0523] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.
[0524] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING, - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a polydimethylsiloxane also called di-methicone (CTFA) such as the product Xiameter® PMX-1503 Fluid marketed by the company DOW CORNING.
[0525] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0526] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - BAYER PK series silicones such as PK20; - BAYER PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products - certain oils from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0527] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises at least one amino silicone. The term "amino silicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least less than one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.
[0528] The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.
[0529] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from:
[0530] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
[0531] ch3 & — O CH OH 1 3 SU x' O3 O (0¾ 1 NH ^¾ _ NH2 — ny
[0532] wherein x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;
[0533] b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):
[0534] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)mO-SiG3-a-R'a (B)
[0535] in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, Cr-C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or Cr-C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, group, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -N(R")2 ; -N+(R")3 A- ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0536] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulae (C), (D), (E), (F), and / or (G).
[0537] According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):
[0538] 1 ' 1 (CH^Si--- O — Si-- O —Si--- uSî( uH I 1 CH 3 ©H* R NH i (C) nh2 m
[0539] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0540] According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:
[0542] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0543] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0544] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0545] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.
[0546] According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (E):
[0547]
[0548] in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0549] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0550] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0551] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0552] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
[0553] A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
[0554] A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil ADM Log 1.
[0555] When these amino silicones are used, a particular embodiment-
[0556]
[0557]
[0558]
[0559]
[0560]
[0561] Particularly interesting is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) available under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER may be used according to the invention. According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (F): (F) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000. Another silicone with formula (B) is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride). According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (G):
[0562]
[0563]
[0564]
[0565]
[0566]
[0567]
[0568] CH. H,G--Si — GH^ in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000. A silicone with this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING. c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H): in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18 alkyleneoxy radical, for example C1-C18 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to
[0569]
[0570]
[0571]
[0572]
[0573]
[0574]
[0575]
[0576]
[0577] 50. Such amino silicones are notably described in US patent 4,185,087. - d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): R- OH Rg-N-CH^CHCH R?. -CH2-CHOH-CH2 in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a CrCi8 alkyl radical, a C2-C[8 alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a CrCi8 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a CrCi8 alkyl radical, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. e) amino silicones of formula (J): -(C FL ) —NH -(G FM —SI 2 ; if 2 m* ■ n 3V- (J) in which: - R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g. f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a block polysiloxane and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
[0578] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[0579] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-]
[0580] or else
[0581] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -]
[0582] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a divalent C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2 radical - R', identical or different, represent a divalent C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0583] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.
[0584] The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0585] The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0586] We can notably cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0587] g) and mixtures thereof.
[0588] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formula (E).
[0589] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises at least one amino silicone with INCI name amodimethicone, preferably introduced in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants.
[0590] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises at least one amino silicone with the INCI name amodimethicone in emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants with the INCI name trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.
[0591] The silicone(s) may be present in a total amount varying from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0592] The amino silicone(s) may be present in a total amount varying from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 15%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Associative polymers
[0593] The hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one associative polymer different from the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents previously described.
[0594] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0595] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
[0596] By “hydrophobic group” is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0597] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
[0598] The associative polymers can be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric in nature.
[0599] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from anionic associative polymers.
[0600] Among the anionic type associative polymers, we can cite:
[0601] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one ether unit of fatty chain allyl, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acid acrylic or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0602] Among these anionic associative polymers, particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
[0603] Among the latter, particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0604] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type olefinically unsaturated, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester (C10-C30) type.
[0605] Alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0606] Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0607] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above, will be used more particularly.
[0608] Among the above polymers, the products sold by the company GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX® are particularly preferred according to the present invention.
[0609] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the ISP Company.
[0610] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as that the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.
[0611] - (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
[0612] i) about 20 to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],
[0613] ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated monomer different from [A],
[0614] iii) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,
[0615] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer (40 EO) in 25% aqueous dispersion.
[0616] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic saturation and an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid ester of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0617] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C1-C4 alcohol.
[0618] As an example of this type of compound, we can cite ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, as well as ACULYN 88 also sold by the company ROHM and HAAS.
[0619] Advantageously, the associative polymer(s) other than the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents are chosen from acrylic associative polymers, more preferably carboxylic acrylic associative polymers.
[0620] In a particularly preferred manner, the associative polymer(s) other than the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agents are chosen from copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0621] Advantageously, the total amount of the associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0622] Compound having at least one carboxylic acid group
[0623]
[0624]
[0625]
[0626]
[0627]
[0628]
[0629]
[0630]
[0631]
[0632]
[0633]
[0634]
[0635]
[0636] The hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one compound, different from the associative polymer(s) as previously described, having at least one carboxylic acid group. Preferably, the compound, different from associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic group, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and their mixtures. Polyurethanes and acrylic polymers According to a preferred embodiment, the hair coloring composition comprises one or more compounds, other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers and their mixtures. Preferably, the compound(s), other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group are in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures. Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises one or more compounds, other than associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group in the form of aqueous dispersions of particles of polymer(s) chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and their mixtures. Thus, in this embodiment, the polymer(s) used in the aqueous dispersions of polymer particles are different from associative polymers. The dispersion(s) may be simple dispersions in the aqueous medium of the cosmetic composition. As a particular case of dispersions, latexes may be mentioned. The aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of polyurethane particles. More particularly, the polyurethane(s) present in the aqueous dispersions used in the present invention are derived from the reaction of - a prepolymer of the following formula (A): (HAS), in which - Ri represents a bivalent radical of a dihydroxylated compound;
[0637] - R2 represents a radical of an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate;
[0638] - R3 represents a radical of a low molecular weight diol, optionally substituted by one or more ionic groups;
[0639] - n represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0640] - m is greater than 1;
[0641] - at least one chain extender according to the following formula (B):
[0642] H2N-R4-NH2 (B),
[0643] in which R4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical which is not substituted by one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups; and
[0644] - at least one chain extender according to the following formula (C)
[0645] H2N-R5-NH2 (C),
[0646] in which R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by one or more ionic or potentially ionic groups.
[0647] Among the dihydroxylated compounds that can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of compounds having two hydroxyl groups and a number-average molecular weight of approximately 700 to approximately 16,000, and preferably of approximately 750 to approximately 5,000. As examples of dihydroxylated compounds having a high molecular weight, mention may be made of polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates, polyhydroxylated polyacetates, polyhydroxylated polyacrylates, polyhydroxylated amide polyesters, polyhydroxylated polyalkadienes, polyhydroxylated polythioethers and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydroxylated compounds are chosen from polyol polyesters, polyol polyethers, polyhydroxylated polycarbonates and mixtures thereof.
[0648] The polyisocyanates which can be used according to the present invention are in particular chosen from organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of approximately 112 to 1000, and preferably of approximately 140 to 400.
[0649] Preferably, the polyisocyanates are chosen from diisocyanates and more particularly from those represented by the general formula R2(NCO)2, in which R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon group having 6 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0650] Preferably, R2 represents an organic diisocyanate. As examples of organic diisocyanates, it is possible in particular to choose tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, 1,3-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 1,4-diisocyanatocyclohexane, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate (isophorone diisocyanate or IPDI), bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)-methane, l,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)-cyclohexane, l,4-bis(isocyanatomethyl)-cyclohexane, bis-(4-isocyanato-3-methyl-cyclohexyl)-methane, isomers of toluene diisocyanate (TDI) such as toluene 2,4-diisocyanate, toluene 2,6-diisocyanate and mixtures thereof, hydrogenated toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate and mixtures with its isomers 2,4-diphenylmethane diisocyanate and optionally 2,2'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, naphthalene-1,5-diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0651] Preferably, the diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates, and are more preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane isocyanate and mixtures thereof.
[0652] By "low molecular weight diol" is meant, according to the present invention, a diol having a molecular weight of about 62 to 700, and preferably of 62 to 200. These diols may comprise aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic groups. Preferably, they comprise only aliphatic groups.
[0653] Preferably, R3 represents a low molecular weight diol, having more than 20 carbon atoms, more preferably chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propane 1,2-diol, propane 1,3-diol, butane 1,4-diol, butylene 1,3-glycol, neopentyl glycol, butyl-ethyl-propane diol, cyclohexane diol, 1,4-cyclohexane dimethanol, hexane 1,6-diol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexyl)propane), and mixtures thereof.
[0654] The low molecular weight diols may optionally comprise ionic or potentially ionic groups. Examples of low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are described in particular in US patent 3,412,054. Such compounds are preferably chosen from dimethylol butanoic acid, dimethylol propionic acid, polycaprolactone diols containing a carboxyl group and mixtures thereof.
[0655] If lower molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are used, they are preferably used in an amount such that less than 0.30 meq of COOH per gram of polyurethane in the polyurethane dispersion is present.
[0656] The prepolymer is extended using two families of chain extenders. The first family of chain extenders corresponds to the compounds of general formula (B).
[0657] The chain extenders of formula (B) are preferably chosen from alkylene diamines, such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, piperazine; alkylene oxide diamines, such as 3-{2-[2-(3-aminopropoxy)ethoxy]-ethoxy}propylamine (also known as dipro-pylamine diethylene glycol or DPA-DEG available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis.), 2-methyl-1,5-pentanediamine (Dytec A from DuPont), hexane diamine, isophorone diamine, 4,4-methylenedi-(cyclohexylamine), DPA series ether amines available from Tomah Products, Milton, Wis., such as dipropylamine propylene glycol, dipropylamine dipropylene glycol, dipropylamine tripropylene glycol, dipropylamine poly(propylene glycol), dipropylamine ethylene glycol, dipropylamine poly(ethylene glycol), dipropylamine 1,3-propane diol, dipropylamine 2-methyl-1,3-propane diol, dipropylamine 1,4-butane diol, dipropylamine 1,3-butane diol, dipropylamine 1,6-hexane diol and dipropylamine cy-clohexane-1,4-dimethanol; and mixtures thereof.
[0658] The second family of chain extenders corresponds to compounds of general formula (C). Such compounds preferably have an ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups capable of reacting with isocyanate groups. Such compounds may optionally comprise two groups reactive with isocyanate groups and an ionic group or one capable of forming an ionic group.
[0659] The ionic or potentially ionic group may preferably be selected from ternary or quaternary ammonium groups or groups convertible into such groups, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group and a sulfonate group. The conversion, at least partial, of the groups convertible into a salt of ternary or quaternary ammonium groups may take place before or during mixing with water.
[0660] The chain extenders of formula (C) are preferably chosen from diaminosulfonates, such as for example the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (ASA), the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0661] The polyurethane usable according to the present invention may optionally further comprise compounds which are respectively located at the ends of the chains and terminate said chains (chain terminators). Such compounds are notably described in US patents 7,445,770 and / or US 7,452,770.
[0662] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s at 23°C, more preferably less than 1500, and even better less than 1000. Even more preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane has a glass transition temperature of less than 0°C.
[0663] Also preferably, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion has a polyurethane content (or active material, or dry matter) based on the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 25 to 55% by weight and more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight. This means that the polyurethane content (dry matter) of the aqueous dispersion is preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 55% by weight and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
[0664] Also preferably, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles has a glass transition temperature (Tg) equal to or less than -25°C, preferably less than -35°C, and more preferably less than -40°C.
[0665] The polyurethane particles may have an average diameter of up to about 1000 nm, for example from about 50 nm to about 800 nm, more preferably from about 100 nm to about 500 nm. These particle sizes may be measured with a laser particle size analyzer (e.g. Brookhaven BI90).
[0666] As a non-limiting example of aqueous polyurethane dispersions, mention may be made of those sold under the name Baycusan® by Bayer such as, for example, Baycusan® C1000 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1001 (INCI name: polyurethane-34), Baycusan® C1003 (INCI name: polyurethane-32), Baycusan® C1004 (INCI name: polyurethane-35) and Baycusan® C1008 (INCI name: polyurethane-48).
[0667] Mention may also be made of aqueous dispersions of polyurethane of isophthalic acid / adipic acid copolymer / hexylene glycol / neopentyl glycol / dimethylol Acid / isophorone diisocyanate (INCI name: Polyurethane-1, such as Luviset® PUR, BASF), polyurethane of polycarbonate, polyurethane and aliphatic polyurethane of aliphatic polyester (such as the NEOREZ® series, DSM, such as NEOREZ® R989, NEOREZ® and R-2202).
[0668] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles may be chosen from aqueous dispersions of particles of compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-35 or compounds having the INCI name polyurethane-34.
[0669] Preferably, the compound(s), other than the associative polymers, having at least one carboxylic acid group, are in the form of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer particles, more preferably in the form of aqueous dispersions of film-forming acrylic polymer particles.
[0670] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least 3 times.
[0671] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film.
[0672] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “acrylic polymer” means a polymer synthesized from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide.
[0673] The unit(s) derived from the (meth)acrylic acid monomers of the polymer may optionally be in the form of salt(s), in particular of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base.
[0674] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates) are advantageous suitably chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably C1 to C20, better still C1 to C10, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6 to C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2 to C6 hydroxyalkyl.
[0675] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth)acrylate.
[0676] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0677] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0678] Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are the Alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably C1 to C30 alkyl, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0679] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be fluorinated, or even perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0680] As amides of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, as well as N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C 2 to C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
[0681] The acrylic polymer according to the invention may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, advantageously a copolymer, even better a copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid esters.
[0682] Preferably, the acrylic polymer(s) according to the invention comprise one or more units derived from the following monomers:
[0683] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0684] b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0685] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles does not does not include surfactant.
[0686] The term “surfactant” means any agent capable of modifying the surface tension between two surfaces.
[0687] Among the acrylic polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, in particular copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the compound sold under the trade name LUVIMER MAE by the company BASF, or the compound Polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer sold under the trade name FIXATE SUPERHOLD POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000VP3 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO, or the compound Acrylate Copolymer sold under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0688] The acrylic polymer may optionally comprise one or more additional monomers, other than the (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylic acid ester and / or (meth)acrylic acid amide monomers.
[0689] As additional monomer, examples that may be mentioned are styrenic monomers, in particular styrene and alpha-methylstyrene, and preferably styrene.
[0690] In particular, the acrylic polymer may be a styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1 to C20 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably C1 to C10.
[0691] The C 1 -C 10 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate.
[0692] As acrylic polymer, mention may be made of the styrene / (meth)acrylate(s) copolymers marketed under the name JONCRYL 77 by the company BASF, under the name YODOSOL GH41F by the company AKZO NOBEL and under the name SYNTRAN 5760 CG by the company INTERPOLYMER.
[0693] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles.
[0694] More preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles comprising one or more units derived from the following monomers:
[0695] a) (meth)acrylic acid; and
[0696] b) C1 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably C1 to C20, even better C1 to C10, and even more particularly C1 to C4.
[0697] Preferably, the aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer particles has a acrylic polymer content (or active material, or dry matter) based on the weight of the dispersion of 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably of 22 to 55% by weight and better still of 25 to 50% by weight.
[0698] The total quantity of the compound(s), other than the associative polymer(s), having at least one carboxylic acid group preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0699] The total quantity of the aqueous dispersion(s) of polymer particles, other than the associative polymer(s) as previously described, chosen from polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0700] According to a particular embodiment, the total quantity of the aqueous dispersion(s) of particles of acrylic polymer(s) different from the associative polymer(s) as previously described, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Organic solvents
[0701] The hair coloring composition used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0702] Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0703] Preferably, the hair coloring composition comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from lower C1-C4 alkanols, more preferably ethanol.
[0704] The organic solvents may be present in a total amount of between 0.01 and 60% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight and more preferably between 0.1% and 45% by weight inclusively relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
[0705] The hair coloring composition used in the process according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The water content can range from 20 to 99% in weight, preferably from 50 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition. Additives
[0706] The hair coloring composition used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
[0707] Among the additives that may be contained in the hair coloring composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0708] The hair coloring composition may be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / W or polyol / O / W or O / W / O), in the form of a cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
[0709] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition. Optional application of a composition D
[0710] The method according to the invention may further comprise a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group, the application of said composition D taking place before the application of the composition for removing the colour.
[0711] The term “carboxylic group” means a COOH or COO functional group, the counterion of the COO group being able to be chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, quaternary ammoniums.
[0712] The silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in composition D; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0713] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.
[0714] Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXVII):
[0715] (XXVII)
[0716] in which: - RI independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - R2 independently represents a group R4-COOM with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a pyrrolidone radical comprising a carboxylic group COOH or a group Ra-(ORb)x-COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; ; - R3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an R4-COOM group with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms or a group Ra-(ORb)x -COOM with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, a alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - p designated an integer ranging from 0 to 1000; it being understood that at least one of the radicals R2 and / or R3 comprises a carboxylic group COOH or COOM with M representing an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0717] In particular, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group may be chosen from the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXVIII):
[0718] (XXVIII), RI F Ri — R1 MOOC — R4—If ——. OL— Si ——-O ™ R4 M LL x H * Ri
[0719] in which: - RI independently represents a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0720] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXIX):
[0721] (XXIX)
[0722] in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably a methyl - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - M represents a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R' identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0723] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXX):
[0725] in which: - RI independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably methyl; - R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the atom oxygen and mixtures thereof; or a divalent group Ra-(ORb)x- with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; - R3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR'3, with R', identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
[0726] - organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXXI):
[0728] in which: - R8 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl; - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.
[0729] -and their mixtures.
[0730] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a carboxy terminal function such as the compounds sold by the company Momentive under the trade name SILFORM INX (INCI name: Bis-Carboxydecyl dimethicone).
[0731] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXIX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a carboxy pendant function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E.
[0732] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a carboxy terminal function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3710.
[0733] Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI), mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Grant Industries under the trade name Grandsil SiW-PCA-10 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside).
[0734] The silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group may, for example, correspond to the compounds described in patent application EPI86507 in the name of Chisso Corporation introduced here by reference.
[0735] Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from organopolysiloxane of formula (XXVIII), organopolysiloxane of formula (XXIX) and mixtures thereof.
[0736] More preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIXa) below:
[0738] in which: - R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, or even from 8 to 12 carbon atoms; - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.
[0739] The total quantity of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group, present in composition D, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D. Oils
[0740] Composition D may comprise one or more oil(s).
[0741] Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s). More preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from alkanes.
[0742] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 105 Pa).
[0743] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0744] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More precisely, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm2 / min, inclusive (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
[0745] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm2 / min (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).
[0746] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from C6-C16 alkanes and / or their mixtures.
[0747] As regards C6-Ci6 alkanes, these can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic.
[0748] Mention may in particular be made of branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, and their mixtures.
[0749] Mention may also be made of linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0750] As an example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), -pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.
[0751] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Cl2) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.
[0752] As examples of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.
[0753] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises isododecane. Such a compound is, for example, isododecane sold under the reference ISO-DODECANE by INEOS.
[0754] Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and / or mixtures thereof.
[0755] More preferably, composition D comprises isododecane.
[0756] Composition D may comprise one or more oils present in a total amount of between 30% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 99% by weight, better still between 70% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.
[0757] Composition D may comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures as described above. Composition to remove color
[0758] As indicated above, the method for removing color from hair keratin fibers, in particular from hair, comprises the application of at least one composition for removing color from said hair keratin fibers previously colored using at least one hair coloring composition as defined above, said composition for removing color comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a cationic surfactant, and at least one polyol. Surfactant
[0759] As indicated above, the composition for removing the color used in the context of the method according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant.
[0760] Preferably, the surfactant is a cationic surfactant.
[0761] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition for removing color. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.
[0762] The cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts.
[0763] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C hydrocarbon chain
[0764] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
[0765] - those corresponding to the following formula (XXXII):
[0766] rq + (XXXII),
[0767] in which:
[0768] - the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 denoting an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;
[0769] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XXXII), preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium salts sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of the following formula (XXXIII):
[0770] (XXXIII), x'
[0771] in which:
[0772] - R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, - R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or a group alkenyl or alkyl containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, - R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0773] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO;
[0774] - quaternary di or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XXXIV):
[0775] (XXXIV),
[0776] in which:
[0777] - R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3, - R9a, R10a, R11a, Rn, Rn, Rb and R14, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate;
[0778] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75); - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (XXXV):
[0779] . (GsHaO^— (XXXV), C R,— R^ X"
[0780] in which: - Rn is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyls; - Ri6 is chosen from: ► the Q group II 19 ► the R20 groups which are CrC22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ► the hydrogen atom, - Ri8 is chosen from: ► the Q group R2Ï—c— ► the R22 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups, ► the hydrogen atom, - R17, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;
[0781] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 designates R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 designates R22.
[0782] The alkyl groups R[5] may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
[0783] Preferably, R[5] denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0784] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0785] When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon group R20, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0786] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon group R22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0787] Advantageously, R[7, R[9 and R2[, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0788] Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
[0789] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0790] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0791] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function may be used.
[0792] The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
[0793] In the composition according to the invention, it is possible to use more particularly the ammonium salts of formula (XXXV) in which: Ris denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from: - the group □ II - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom; Ri s is chosen from: - group Q II r2—c — - the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0794] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0795] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds of formula (XXXV) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, dia-cyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihy-droxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
[0796] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or of alkyldüsopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on Cio-C3o fatty acids or on mixtures of Cio-C3o fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0797] Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
[0798] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
[0799] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
[0800] Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.
[0801] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0802] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
[0803] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (XXXII) and those of formula (XXXV), and even more preferably from those of formula (XXXII).
[0804] In a very particularly preferred manner, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from those of formula (XXXII), more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium salts, cetyltrimethylammonium salts, and their mixture, and even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and their mixture.
[0805] Preferably, the surfactant(s), preferably the cationic surfactants, are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.75 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
[0806] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the surfactant(s), preferably the cationic surfactants, are present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.75 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color. Polyol
[0807] As indicated previously, the composition for removing the color used in the context of the method according to the invention comprises at least one polyol.
[0808] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0809] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
[0810] Preferably, the color removing composition comprises one or more polyols selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from propylene glycol.
[0811] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are present in a total content of at least 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 35 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 35 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color. Alkyl or alkylene carbonate
[0812] The composition for removing color used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate.
[0813] By alkyl carbonate is meant an alkyl or dialkyl carbonate.
[0814] Preferably, the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is a C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, alkyl or C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, alkylene carbonate, more preferably the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from alkylene carbonates, better still from propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0815] In a particularly preferred manner, the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from propylene carbonate.
[0816] Advantageously, when it(they) is(are) present, the content of alkyl or alkylene carbonate ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color. Glycol ether
[0817] The composition for removing color used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one glycol ether other than the polyols. previously described.
[0818] Preferably, the glycol ether is chosen from those of formula Rn(-O-CH(CH3 )-CH2)nOH, in which Rn denotes a C1-C30, preferably C1-C6, more preferably C1-C4 alkyl radical, and in which n is from 1 to 50, preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 5.
[0819] Advantageously, the glycol ether is of formula CH3(-O-CH(CH3)-CH2)nOH, in which n is from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 5.
[0820] Particularly preferably, the glycol ether is chosen from tripropylene glycol methyl ether, tripropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol propyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably tripropylene glycol methyl ether.
[0821] The total content of glycol ether(s), when present, preferably ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the color removing composition. Fatty body
[0822] The composition for removing color used in the context of the method according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance.
[0823] Said fatty substances may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0824] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0825] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0826] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0827] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0828] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0829] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0830] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0831] As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0832] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0833] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0834] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0835] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.
[0836] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0837] The liquid fatty alcohols which may be suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples which may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0838] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0839] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0840] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0841] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0842] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0843] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0844] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0845] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0846] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0847] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0848] These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0849] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0850] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0851] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0852] The silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 to 1 m2 / s.
[0853] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0854] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils that can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.
[0855] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0856] When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE. Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.
[0857] These silicone oils may be more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we may mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard.
[0858] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 200 series oils such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0859] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.
[0860] The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
[0861] As regards liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.
[0862] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.105 to 5.102 m2 / s at 25°C.
[0863] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite as an example the commercial products- commercialized under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - BAYER PK series silicones such as PK20; - BAYER PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products; - certain oils from the GENERAL ELECTRIC SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.
[0864] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups; - alkoxylated groups, - hydroxyl groups.
[0865] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition for removing the color comprises at least one liquid fatty substance chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, preferentially chosen from triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids.
[0866] The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0867] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0868] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0869] The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0870] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid.
[0871] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0872] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0873] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0874] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0875] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is myristic alcohol.
[0876] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0877] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0878] Esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.
[0879] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, sebacate diisopropyl, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0880] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0881] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0882] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.
[0883] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0884] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0885] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0886] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0887] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.
[0888] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0889] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;
[0890] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0891] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.
[0892] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0893] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0894] Preferably, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0895] It is also possible to use compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0896] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.
[0897] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
[0898] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition for removing the color comprises at least one solid fatty substance chosen from solid fatty alcohols, preferably myristic alcohol.
[0899] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one triglyceride oil of vegetable or synthetic origin, more preferably chosen from caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and at least one solid fatty alcohol, more preferably at least one triglyceride oil of vegetable or synthetic origin chosen from caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and at least one solid fatty alcohol chosen from myristic alcohol.
[0900] When the composition for removing color comprises one or more fatty substances, the total content of the fatty substance(s) preferably varies from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble organic solvents
[0901] The composition for removing color used in the context of the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one water-soluble organic solvent chosen from monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol and butanol.
[0902] The composition for removing color used in the process according to the invention may comprise water.
[0903] According to another particular embodiment, the composition for removing the color does not comprise water.
[0904] Furthermore, the additives as mentioned above can be included in the composition for removing the color used in the context of the process according to the invention. Protocol
[0905] The hair coloring composition and the optional composition D described above can be used on dry or wet hair keratin fibers, as well as on all types of hair keratin fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0906] According to a preferred embodiment, the hair coloring composition and composition D are applied simultaneously to the keratin fibers.
[0907] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibers after the application of the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers.
[0908] According to another preferred embodiment, composition D is applied to the hair keratin fibers before applying the coloring composition to hair keratin fibers.
[0909] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair keratin fibers are washed before application of the hair coloring composition and optional composition D.
[0910] Preferably, a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step is carried out after the application of the coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and before the application of composition D to the keratin fibers.
[0911] More preferably, a drying step is carried out after the application of the hair coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and before the application of composition D to the keratin fibers.
[0912] The application to the hair keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush, a sponge or with the fingers.
[0913] The application of the hair coloring composition and of the possible composition D on the keratin fibers is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).
[0914] After application of the hair coloring composition to the keratin fibers, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before, for example, the application of composition D to the keratin fibers or, for example, a washing, rinsing, wringing or drying step.
[0915] Preferably, there is no exposure time after the application of the hair coloring composition to the keratin fibers and before the application of composition D to the hair keratin fibers.
[0916] After application of the hair coloring composition and optional composition D, the hair keratin fibers may be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C.
[0917] The method according to the invention can thus comprise a step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers using a heating tool.
[0918] The heat application step of the method of the invention can be carried out using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon,
[0919] Preferably, the heat application step of the method of the invention is carried out using a hair dryer.
[0920] When the method of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers, the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers takes place after the application of the coloring composition ca- pill and possible composition D on hair keratin fibers.
[0921] During the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers, a mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through them.
[0922] When the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers is carried out using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C.
[0923] When the step of applying heat to the hair keratin fibers is carried out using a straightening iron, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0924] In a particular variant, the method of the invention implements a step (bl) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (b2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.
[0925] Step (bl) can be carried out before step (b2).
[0926] During step (bl), also called the drying step, the hair keratin fibers may be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 110°C.
[0927] Preferably, if the hair keratin fibers are dried, they are dried, in addition to a heat supply, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the sheathing.
[0928] During drying, mechanical action on the strands can be exerted such as combing, brushing, passing the fingers.
[0929] During step (b2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 to 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0930] After the heating step, a shaping step can be carried out with, for example, a hair straightener, the temperature for the shaping step is between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.
[0931] Preferably, the invention is a process for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers, such as hair, comprising in particular: i) the application to said hair keratin fibers of the hair coloring composition as described above, then ii) optionally a time for leaving said hair coloring composition on the fibers of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes; then iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, wringing or drying said hair keratin fibers, then iv) the application to said hair keratin fibers of a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described previously; then v) optionally a time for leaving said composition D on the fibers of 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably of 1 to 20 minutes; then vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said fibers.
[0932] Preferably, the step of applying the hair coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers is repeated several times.
[0933] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for treating hair keratin fibers is a process for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, previously colored, comprising in particular a step of extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of at least two compositions A and B to obtain the hair coloring composition as defined above and applying the hair coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers, with: - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound as described previously; - composition B comprising at least one compound, different from the associative polymers as described previously, having at least one carboxylic acid group as described previously,
[0934] composition A and / or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures;
[0935] composition A and / or composition B optionally comprising at least one silicone as defined previously.
[0936] Preferably, composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof and composition A does not comprise a coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0937] Preferably, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair keratin fibers, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better still less than 5 minutes before application.
[0938] The weight ratio between composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.
[0939] According to a particular embodiment, the method for treating hair keratin fibers is a method for removing color from hair keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising in particular a step of extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of at least two compositions A and B to obtain the hair coloring composition as defined above and to apply the hair coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers, with:
[0940] - composition A comprising at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound such as described previously; - composition B comprising at least one compound, different from the associative polymers as described previously, having at least one carboxylic acid group as described previously, and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures;
[0941] composition A and / or composition B optionally comprising at least one silicone as defined previously, and a composition D as described above being applied to the hair keratin fibers before and / or after, preferably after, the application of the mixture of compositions A and B to the hair keratin fibers.
[0942] Then, as indicated previously, the method according to the invention comprises the application of at least one composition for removing the color from hair keratin fibers, as defined above, having been previously colored using at least one hair coloring composition as defined above.
[0943] Preferably, the composition for removing the color is then rinsed after a possible exposure time, possibly followed by shampooing.
[0944] Preferably, the color removing composition is left on for 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 1 to 15 minutes, better still 2 to 10 minutes, before being rinsed.
[0945] According to a particular embodiment, the method according to the invention further comprises a step of kneading the hair keratin fibers, after applying the composition to remove the color.
[0946] During this kneading step, a special tool such as an exfoliating glove may be used.
[0947] Preferably, during a kneading step, 5 finger passes are made along the wick. The duration of all 5 passes can vary from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, for example, for 1g of wick.
[0948] The step of kneading the hair keratin fibers can be repeated several times, for example 2 times, possibly with an intermediate exposure time.
[0949] The step of applying the composition to remove the color can be repeated several times, possibly with an intermediate rinse.
[0950] The time between the step of applying the hair coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and the step of applying the composition for removing the color can vary from a few minutes to several days, for example several tens of days. Preferably, the time between the step of applying the hair coloring composition to the hair keratin fibers and the step of applying the composition for removing the color varies from 1 hour to 30 days, more preferably from 1 day to 15 days.
[0951] The optional kneading step can then be followed by a step of washing the hair keratin fibers, for example using a shampoo. The hair keratin fibers can then be kneaded, rinsed and dried. Composition to remove color
[0952] The invention also relates to a composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, comprising:
[0953] - at least 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant, preferably a ca surfactant tionic, relative to the total weight of the composition to remove the color;
[0954] - at least 35% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition position to remove the color.
[0955] Preferably, the coloring composition is the coloring composition used in the context of the method according to the invention.
[0956] Preferably, the cationic surfactant and the polyol are as defined above, respectively.
[0957] Advantageously, the surfactant(s), preferably the cationic surfactants, are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.75 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
[0958] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are present in a total content ranging from 35 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 35 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
[0959] The composition for removing color according to the invention may further comprise at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate as described above.
[0960] Advantageously, when it is (are) present, the content of alkyl or alkylene carbonate(s), when it is (are) present, ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
[0961] The composition for removing color according to the invention may further comprise at least one glycol ether other than the polyols as described previously.
[0962] The total content of glycol ether(s), when present, preferably ranges from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
[0963] Preferably, the other ingredients which may be included in the composition for removing the color as used in the context of the method according to the invention, as described above, may be included in the composition for removing the color according to the invention. Use
[0964] The invention also relates to the use of the composition for removing the color according to the invention or as used in the context of the process according to the invention, from hair keratin fibers previously colored with a coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
[0965] Preferably, the coloring composition is as defined above.
[0966] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples
[0967] The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthesis methods known to those skilled in the art from commercial products or reagents that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Examples include the work Sciences of Synthesis - Houben - Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or American patent US 4,284,730 or Canadian application CA 2,509,861.
[0968] More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses, during a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1): O=C=N-LrN=C=O (1), formula (1) in which Li is as defined above which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US 4,284,730 in particular phosphorus catalysts particularly chosen from phospholene oxides and phospholene sulfoxides, diaza and oxazaphospholanes, preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a polar solvent, preferably aprotic, such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and solvent reflux, preferably around 140°C; to yield the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)nN=C=O (3), formula (3) in which Li and n are as defined previously. Halogenated benzoyl such as benzoyl chloride may be added to deactivate the catalyst.
[0969] To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4): [R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)]2-E (4), formula (4) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant to obtain compound (4) from (3) it is possible to first add 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of Ri-XrH reagent.
[0970] To obtain “asymmetric” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with Rb Xi and E as defined previously, to lead to compound (5): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EH (5), formula (5) in which Rb Xb Lh n, and E are as defined previously.
[0971] According to a variant to obtain compound (5) from (3) it is possible to first add 1 eq. of reagent Ri-XrH, then 0.5 eq. of reagent HEH.
[0972] In a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. of compound (6) R2-X2-C(O)-NH-Li-(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3'): O=C=N-L1-(N=C=N-L1)ZN=C=O (3'),
[0973] formula (3') in which Li and z are as defined previously which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H with Lb R2, X2, and z as defined previously, to lead to the dissymmetric compound (7): R1-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-EC(O)-NH-L1--(N=C=N-L1)z-NH-C(O) -X2-R2 (7),
[0974] Formula (7) in which Rb Xb Lb R2, X2, n, z and E are as defined previously.
[0975] It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=N-Li -(N=C=N-Li)zN=C=O (3') with 1 / w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq. of nucleophilic reagent R2-X2-H to lead to compound (8): H-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH-C(O)-X2-R2(8),
[0976] formula (8) in which Lb R2, X2, z and E are as defined previously, and w is an integer between 1 and 3, more preferably w = 1.
[0977] This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'): Ri-Xi-C(O)-NH-Lr(N=C=N-Li)nN=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') can be synthesized by reaction of 0.5 eq. of nucleophilic reagent Ri-XrH with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to yield the (poly)carbodiimide of the invention (9): Ri-X1-C(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)n-NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L1-(N=C=N-L1)z]w-NH C(O)-X2-R2 (9), formula (9) in which Lb Rb Xb R2, X2, n, z, w, and E are as defined above.
[0978] The (poly)carbodiimide compounds as well as all reaction intermediates and reagents can be purified with conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and water-immiscible organic solvent, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and / or chromatography.
[0979] Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the compound (poly)carbodiimide
[0980] In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-l-phenyl-lH-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced with stirring.
[0981] The reaction medium was heated to 140°C under nitrogen for 4 hours, monitoring the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm1, then cooled to 120°C.
[0982] A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium with stirring. The temperature of 120°C is maintained until the isocyanate functions have completely disappeared, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm1, then cooled to room temperature.
[0983] After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured dropwise with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to yield the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid. Example 2:
[0984] Compositions A and B as described below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0985] [Tables 1] Composition A Polycarbodiimide (1) 24 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer(2) 1 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 (3) 5 Preservative(s) qs Water Qsp 100
[0986] (1) synthesized according to the synthesis method described in example 1 (at 40% of material active in water),
[0987] (2) sold by the company SEPPIC under the name SEPINOV EMT10,
[0988] (3) sold by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL ADM LOG 1 (at 15% active ingredient).
[0989] [Tables2] Composition B Acrylates copolymer (4) 40 Acrylates / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (5) 2 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) 12 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 (3) 5 Preservative(s), neutralizer qs Water Qsp 100
[0990] (4) sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the trade name DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 (aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient)
[0991] (5) sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the trade name ACULYN 22® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer) (30% active ingredient).
[0992] Composition A is mixed with composition B at a mass ratio of 50 / 50 (0.4 g for composition A and 0.4 g for composition B) to obtain a composition C. Thus, composition C is a hair coloring composition according to the invention.
[0993] Then, composition D as described below was prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as is / 100g.
[0994] [Tables3] Compositions D Bis-carboxydecyl dimethicone (6) 2 Isododecane qsp 100
[0995] (6) sold by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name commercial appointment SILFORM INX Compositions for removing color
[0996] In parallel, several compositions for removing the color according to the invention are prepared and are described in the following table. The quantities are expressed in g of active material / 100g:
[0997] [Tables4] Compositions El E2 E3 E4 Propylene glycol Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride 0.6 0.6 - 0.6 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.6 0.6 1 0.6 Propylene carbonate - - 40 - Tripropylene glycol methyl ether - - 10 - Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 0.9 0.9 - 0.9 Myristyl alcohol 2 2 - 2 Alcohol denat. - 10 - 27.95 Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 1
[0998] Thus, compositions E1 to E4 are compositions for removing color according to the invention. Hair strand coloring protocol:
[0999] Composition C is applied to strands of 90% white natural dry hair, at a rate of 0.8g of composition per gram of strand.
[1000] The strands of hair are then dried with a hairdryer and then combed.
[1001] Then, composition D is applied to said strands of dry hair treated with composition C, at a rate of 0.5g of composition per gram of strand.
[1002] The locks of hair thus colored are then stored at 60°C for 48 hours, then undergo a treatment to remove the color.
[1003] The locks of hair colored with composition C are treated with each of compositions E1 to E4. Hair Strand Treatment Protocol
[1004] Each of the compositions E1 to E4 is applied to a lock of colored hair at a rate of 2g of composition per g of lock. The locks of hair are pinched between two fingers with exfoliating gloves 6 times from root to tip, then they are kneaded 6 times between two fingers from root to tip. The two gestures are alternated for 5 minutes. Then, the exfoliating gloves are removed, and the locks of hair are rinsed with water.
[1005] The strands are then washed using a multivitamin shampoo (Elsève Multivitamines). 6 finger strokes along the strand are made with 0.4g of multivitamin shampoo per g of strand.
[1006] The wicks are then rinsed with water and dried.
[1007] The color removal power (or color elimination) is then rated on a scale of 1 to 5. A rating of 1 indicates excellent color removal power. A rating of 5 indicates poor color removal power. The results are described in the table below:
[1008] [Tables5] Compositions El E2 E3 E4 color removal power 2 2 1 1
[1009] It is found that the color removing compositions E1 to E4 according to the invention have excellent color removal power (or color removal power). The best results are obtained for compositions E3 and E4.
[1010] Thus, the method according to the invention makes it possible to improve the removal of color from a lock of hair having been previously colored using a hair coloring composition comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound and a coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.
Claims
Claims
1. A method for removing color from previously colored keratin hair fibers, comprising applying at least one composition for removing color to said previously colored keratin hair fibers using at least one hair coloring composition comprising: - at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound; and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures; said composition for removing color comprising: - at least one surfactant, preferably a cationic surfactant; and - at least one polyol present in a total content of at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): OO ® 0 r 1 II R^X^ A——A4- H I. J « H in which: - Xi and X2 represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - R 1 and R 2 independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydroalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from the alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyal- alkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sul-phonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane; - n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; and - A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
3. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below: (II), in which - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom 0, a sulfur atom S or an NH group; - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; - Li independently represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in CrCi8, a cycloalkylene radical in C3-Ci5, a heterocycloalkylene group in C3-Ci2, or a arylene group in C6-Ci4, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-, in which R3 and R4 independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); - R5 independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);- R6 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).;
4. Process according to claim 3, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently chosen from dialkylaminoalcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters and (poly)alkylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - L1 is chosen from a divalent C1-C18 aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical, a C3-C12 heterocycloalkylene group, or a C6-C14 arylene group, and mixtures thereof; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
5. Process according to any one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2 are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z > 2 and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical; - E independently represents a group chosen from: - -O-R3-O-; -S-R4-S-; -R5-N(R6)-R4-N(R6)-R5-; in which R3 and R4 are independently chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; - when R5 is not a covalent bond, R5 is chosen from a C6-C14 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; and - R6 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched CrCi8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
6. Process according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodihnide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which Rn represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w equal to 1; - Li is a C3-C15 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and - E represents a group -O-R3-O- in which R3 is chosen from a C6-Ci4 arylene radical, a C3-Ci2 cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C1-Ci8 alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.
7. Process according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which: - Xi and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom; - R1 and R2, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) following: R13-[O-CH2-C(H)(R14)]q- (VI), in which R13 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; - n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1; - Li is a C3-Ci5 cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; and - E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).
8. Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below: < ■ § HN ..A Mx A o. ' WHJ \ <4' \9-J % (XII), in which Li is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group - -O-R3-O- in which R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of coloring agent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.
11. A method according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the pigment content ranges from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a step of applying to the hair keratin fibers a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group, the application of said composition D taking place before the application of the composition for removing the color.
13. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total quantity of the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group present in composition D ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition D.
14. Method according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that composition D further comprises one or more oil(s), preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and / or their mixtures.
15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s) are chosen from cationic surfactants, preferably the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from - those corresponding to the following formula (XXXII): r - + (XXXII), R yRS. N. x~ ^R, in which: - the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or al-kylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(CrC4 )aryl-sulfonates; - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as example those of formula (XXXIII) following: NiR,}—CO—R5 (XXXIII), in which: - R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, - R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, - R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms; - quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XXXIV): RTS R12 R—MR R.. (XXXIV), in which: - R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3, - R9a, R10a, R11a, Rn, Rn, Rn and R14, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one function ester, such as those of formula (XXXV) following: (XXXV), in which: - R45 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; - Ri6 is chosen from: ► the Q group II R 1S — C — ► R20 groups which are CrC22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, ► the hydrogen atom, - Ri8 is chosen from: ► the Q group ► the R22 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups, ► the hydrogen atom, - Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; - x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R denotes R22.
16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from those of formula (XXXII) and those of formula (XXXV), preferably from those of formula (XXXII), more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium salts, cetyltrimethylammonium salts, and their mixture, and even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and their mixture.
17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s), preferably the cationic surfactants, are present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.75 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) are chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from propylene glycol.
19. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) are present in a total content ranging from 35 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 35 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
20. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition for removing the color further comprises at least one alkyl or alkylene carbonate, preferably the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is a CrC3o, preferably Ci-C6, alkyl carbonate, or CrC3o, preferably Ci-C6, alkylene carbonate, more preferably the alkyl or alkylene carbonate is chosen from alkylene carbonates, better still from propylene carbonate, butylene carbonate, pentylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.
21. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of alkyl or alkylene carbonate ranges from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition for removing the color.
22. Composition for removing color from hair keratin fibers that have been previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, comprising: - at least 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant, preferably a cationic surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition for removing color; - at least 35% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the weight of the composition to remove the color.
23. Use of the composition for removing color as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21 or according to claim 22, hair keratin fibers having been previously colored with a hair coloring composition comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.