COMBINATION OF RAW MATERIALS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID COMBINATION

Abstract

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, hygiene and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips and / or skin, more particularly to that of compositions such as foundation, sunscreen, lipstick or eyeshadow.[2] The present invention relates to a combination of raw materials comprising a C12 to C30 alkane or mixture of alkanes, preferably C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler having a linseed oil content according to EN ISO 787-5 greater than 45 g / 100 g; to its use in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being selected from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick, and an eyeshadow; to the use of the cosmetic composition for the care, hygiene, and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably hair, lips, and / or skin; and to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene, and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably lips and / or skin. There are no figures.

Description

Title of the invention: COMBINATION OF RAW MATERIALS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID COMBINATION

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, hygiene and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips and / or skin, more particularly to that of compositions such as foundation, sunscreen, lipstick or eyeshadow.

[0002] The present invention relates to an association of raw materials comprising an alkane or mixture of alkanes in C12 to C30, preferably in C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler whose linseed oil content, according to EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / 100 g, to its use in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eyeshadow; to the use of the cosmetic composition for the care, hygiene and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips and / or skin, as well as to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips and / or skin.

[0003] The applicant is a creator of Botanical Beauty and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its research into raw materials and its expertise in formulation drive it to innovate in order to create increasingly natural formulas to satisfy consumers and generate scientific value. In order to limit its environmental impact, the applicant is pursuing an innovation approach to replace ingredients derived from non-renewable and non-easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, as it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy, and sensory appeal of the products for consumers. Also with the aim of reducing its environmental impact, it is important for the applicant to move towards formulas that contain a minimum of water and generate less packaging (especially plastics).

[0004] Traditionally, long-lasting makeup formulas are achieved through the combination of several synthetic materials. Furthermore, the wear time is often less than 24 hours. These synthetic materials are also highly controversial from a media and sustainability perspective, particularly in relation to environmental concerns.

[0005] The first family of materials concerned is that of volatile emollients. These materials belong to the category of silicones, constituting the chemical family Synthetic cyclic silicones such as cyclosiloxanes, including D4 and D5, and linear silicones such as low molecular weight dimethicone. Due to their high volatility, these silicones allow the texture and color to adhere to the skin, achieving very long-lasting wear (up to 24 hours). This long-lasting effect also translates into a "non-transfer" quality, meaning that the texture and color will not transfer to surfaces such as glass, cups, fabric, or cigarettes.

[0006] Silicones also exist in a non-volatile form. These can be siloxane resins (such as MQ – polymethylsilsesquioxane) or elastomers (such as dimethicone crospolymer). Resins are polymers with a relatively high molar mass and a three-dimensional structure. They have diverse uses and are particularly well-suited for self-adhesive applications. The various groups that can be grafted onto the macromolecule influence the resin's performance properties.

[0007] Traditionally, in cosmetics, silicone resins and elastomers are mainly used for their adhesion properties, their hydrophobicity and their resistance to moisture and sebum.

[0008] It should be noted that Regulation 2018 / 35 of 10 January 2018, published in the Official Journal of the European Union on 11 January, amends Annex XVII of REACH Regulation 1907 / 2006 in order to limit the concentration of two silicones, D4 and D5 (volatile silicones), in rinse-off cosmetic products. The measure has been in force since 1 February 2020.

[0009] Regarding the environmental aspect: D4 and D5 (volatile silicones) have been classified since 2014 as pollutants in the same way as microplastics, because they are difficult to biodegrade and toxic to aquatic organisms that ingest them.

[0010] The second family of materials that contributes to long-lasting performance is that of film-forming agents. These may include, for example, polybutenes and their derivatives, which have an affinity for oils.

[0011] It may also involve acrylates (and their derivatives) or polyvinylpyrrolidones, which have a certain affinity for water. Film-forming agents have an adhesive property on the skin, which allows the texture to adhere to the skin.

[0012] The third family constitutes the family of touch powders. This family is composed of acrylates and their derivatives, such as methyl methacrylate crosspolymer. These are in powder form and also contribute to the good adhesion of the texture to the skin thanks to their high absorption capacity, which allows them to absorb excess sebum. In addition, these powders give to The texture has a particular "powdery" feel combined with excellent spreadability which prolongs the application time and provides a soft-touch effect.

[0013] On the other hand, traditionally, 24-hour makeup, obtained with synthetic raw materials, causes some discomfort for the wearer. Furthermore, the makeup result can be visually imperfect, for example, by accentuating wrinkles and fine lines.

[0014] There is therefore a need to develop new compositions that address the problems observed in existing compositions. In particular, there is a need to offer long-lasting cosmetic compositions without resorting to combining several controversial or uncomfortable synthetic materials. In the specific case of makeup, there is an additional need to offer long-lasting wear, but not at the expense of makeup quality.

[0015] It is to the applicant's credit that a new combination, preferably composed of raw materials of natural origin, is proposed which, when incorporated into a cosmetic composition, allows for a hold of more than 16 hours on the skin and / or lips, preferably more than 24 hours on the skin and / or lips, without causing discomfort and without compromising on the quality of the makeup.

[0016] Thus, it is to the credit of the applicant that it has not only been able to substitute silicones, volatile or not, known to give cosmetic compositions, and in particular foundation, a particular sensory profile described as more or less light, velvety, but also the film-forming agents and fillers classically combined with said silicones, as explained above, in order to obtain complementary technical effects on both comfort and quality while limiting controversial or uncomfortable synthetic materials.

[0017] The invention thus relates to an association of raw materials comprising an alkane or mixture of alkanes in C12 to C30, preferably in C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler whose linseed oil content according to EN ISO 787-5 is greater than 45 g / 100 g.

[0018] The combination of raw materials according to the invention may include: - 30 to 75%, preferably 40 to 65%, of an alkane or mixture of alkanes in the C12 to C130 range, preferably in the C12 to C15 range, - 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of a film-forming agent, and - from 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of at least one load whose linseed oil intake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / 100 g, the percentages being given as mass percentage in relation to the total mass (100%) of the combination.

[0019] Advantageously, the combination of raw materials according to the invention may consist of: - 30 to 75%, preferably 40 to 65%, of an alkane or mixture of alkanes in the C12 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C15 range, - 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of a film-forming agent, and - 10 to 35%, preferably 15 to 30%, of at least one load whose linseed oil intake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / 100 g, the percentages being given as mass percentage in relation to the total mass (100%) of the combination.

[0020] Advantageously, the combination of raw materials according to the invention may consist of: - 40 to 65% of an alkane or mixture of alkanes in the C12 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C15 range, - 15 to 30% of a film-forming agent, and - 15 to 30%, of at least one charge whose linseed oil intake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / 100 g, the percentages being given as mass percentage in relation to the total mass (100%) of the association.

[0021] The new combination, which is the subject of the invention, thus resolves these problems and drawbacks of the prior art. Surprisingly, the combination of these three raw materials according to the invention, in cosmetic compositions, provides the following advantages over the latter: - improved consistency of the cosmetic composition despite the replacement of classic synthetic materials such as silicones and acrylates; - absence of transfer onto skin, clothing, dishes, or hygiene items (such as surgical masks); - improved comfort for the user of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, limited dryness and tightness of the skin; - a "second skin" sensation after applying the cosmetic composition - an easier, more pleasant and smoother application of compositions including the combination according to the invention (user feedback); - composed of materials of natural origin (excluding pigments and other compounds that have no natural equivalent); - high coverage; - improved skin hydration thanks to a texture that does not emphasize dry areas and is not greasy (especially for compositions such as foundation, sunscreen); - water resistance (especially for anhydrous and W / O and W / O emulsion type compositions)).

[0022] A C12 to C30 alkane is defined as a linear or branched alkane with a total number of carbon atoms from 12 to 30, preferably from 12 to 15. It may be a mixture of alkanes. The alkane or mixture of alkanes is of natural origin. The alkane or mixture of alkanes may be selected from isododecane, a mixture of C13 to C15 alkanes, squalane, and mixtures thereof. It may preferably be a mixture of C15 alkanes and / or isododecane, and even more preferably, C13-C15 alkane and / or isododecane. C13-C15 alkane has CAS number 64742-46-7. Squalane has the CAS number 111-01-3. Isododecane has the CAS number 93685-81-5.

[0023] Advantageously, the association according to the invention can comprise from 30 to 75% of an alkane or mixture of alkanes in C12 to C30, preferably in C15. Preferably, the association according to the invention can comprise from 40 to 65% of an alkane or mixture of alkanes in C15 to C30, preferably in C15.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the term "film-forming agent" refers to high molecular weight polymers, generally lipophilic and of natural origin. It may be a dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate dimer, a polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the film-forming agent is the polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer. The polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer has CAS number 900160-92-1. The dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate has CAS number 378789-58-3.

[0025] Advantageously, the association according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 35% of a film-forming agent. Preferably, the association according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 30% of a film-forming agent.

[0026] The term "filler" refers to a solid substance, immiscible in the medium and dispersed mechanically within a matrix. It may be of mineral or vegetable origin and may be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural. According to the invention, at least one filler has a linseed oil content, according to EN ISO 787-5, greater than 45 g / 100 g. It may be a filler or a mixture of the fillers listed in Table 1 below:

[0027] [Tables 1] NOM INCI NOM COMMERCIAL ABSORPTION D'HUILE DE LIN EN G / 100G SILICA SILYLATE [NANO] VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICULES 810G / 100G POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOX ANE TOS PEARL 2000B 45G / 100G TALC & LAUROYL LYSINE TALC L12 NLL 50G / 100G NYLON-11 ORGASOL GREEN T OUCH 70G / 100G SILICA [NANO] SILICE MSS-500 / 3H 267G / 100G SILICA [NANO] SPHERICA P1500 62G / 100G SILICA & CI 77891 & CI 77491 RONAFLAIR FLAWL ESS 48G / 100G MICA & TITANIUM DIOXIDE RONAFLAIR EXTEN DERW 126G / 100G METHYL METHACRYLATE C ROSSPOLYMER SEPIMAT HB V 72G / 100G TALC TALC LUZENAC 10 MO (NEIGE 10pM) 60G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE SENSOCEL 5 170 G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE SENSOCEL 8 120G / 100G LAUROYL LYSINE AMIHOPE LL 74G / 100G SOLUM DIATOMEAE / DIATOM ACEOUS EARTH IMERCARE 400 D 215G / 100G HYDROXYAPATITE & CALC IUM CARBONATE OMYASKIN 100 OG 270G / 100G BAMBUSA ARUNDINACEA S TEM POWDER BAMBOO SILK A 113G / 100G KAOLIN IMERCARE 04 K 55G / 100G BORON NITRIDE RONAFLAIR BORON EIGE SF 3 100G / 100G KAOLIN KAOLIN BP LIGHT 50G / 100G DISTARCH PHOSPHATE RICE PO4 NATURAL 49G / 100G NYLON-12 ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS 84G / 100G METHYL METHACRYLATE C ROSSPOLYMER COVABEAD LH170 MAKIBEADS 150 155G / 100G KAOLIN & MICA & QUARTZ KAOLIN G35M 53G / 100G CELLULOSE SILK COTTON PW 113G / 100G ORYZA SATIVA STARCH MAKIGREEN RICE S 65G / 100G BAMBUSA ARUNDINACEA J UICE BAMBOO SILK A 139G / 100G LAUROYL LYSINE AMIHOPE LL 74G / 100G MICA SERICITE 300S 47,6G / 100G BORON NITRIDE RONAFLAIR BORON EIGE SF 6 89,2G / 100G ZEA MAYS STARCH & POLYVI NYL ALCOHOL & GLYCERIN CELUS BI FEEL 20 55,lG / 100G ZEA MAYS STARCH & POLYVI NYL ALCOHOL & GLYCERIN CELUS BI FEEL 10 55,3G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE VIVAPUR CS 4 FM 151G / 100G BORON NITRIDE RONAFLAIR BORON EIGE SF 3 100G / 100G SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT & LAUROYL LYSINE GRANPOWDER BBP 700 250G / 100G CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL POWDER VITACEL CS 7 OR ANGE 56,6G / 100G CELLULOSE (BAMBUSA AR UNDINACEA) SENSOCEL BC 40 101G / 100G BAMBUSA ARUNDINACEA S TEM EXTRACT GREEN MICROZEST 25 BAMBOO 113G / 100G , MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE SENSOCEL 8 100G / 100G SOLUM DIATOMEAE / DIATOM ACEOUS EARTH IMERCARE 400 D 215G / 100G KAOLIN IMERCARE 04 K 55G / 100G CELLULOSE MICROCRISTALLI NE VIVAPUR CS 9 FM 129G / 100G ZEA MAYS STARCH & POLYVI NYL ALCOHOL & GLYCERIN CELUS BI FEEL 5 62,5G / 100G KAOLIN & ILLITE COSPINKAO 46,0G / 100G ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) STARCH NATIVACARE 8600 64,7 G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE VIVAPUR CS SENS ORY 5 106 G / 100G PYRUS MALUS (APPLE) FIBER VITACEL CS 5 APPLE 63,5 G / 100G HYDROXYAPATITE FL-HAP-SC 263 G / 100G CELLULOSE (BAMBUSA AR UNDINACEA) SENSOCEL BC 20 90,4 G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE SENSOCEL 5 170 G / 100G SILICA SENSIBEAD SI 175 143,8G / 100G SILICA SENSIBEAD SI 320 57,6 G / 100G CELLULOSE SENSOCEL 10 93,2 G / 100G SILICA BIOSILICA 121 G / 100G KAOLIN COSKAO 50,6 G / 100G MAGNESIUM / POTASSIUM / SILI CON / FLUORIDE / HYDROXIDE / O XIDE SENSIFEEL STAR SOFT 46 G / 100G SILICA CREASPHERES SIL WL8 123 G / 100G SILICA CREASPHERES SIL WL3 138 G / 100G SILICA CREASPHERES SIL WL9 217 G / 100G SILICA CREASPHERES SIL WL 10 217 G / 100G AVENA SATIVA BRAN VITACEL CS 5 OAT 102 G / 100G ILLITE RONAFLAIR SATIN 71,2G / 100G CYCLODEXTRIN BEAUTE BY ROQUE TTE CD 100 48,8G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE VIVAPUR CS SENS ORY 12 129 G / 100G SILICA MSS 500 W 126 G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 02 54,0 G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 06 71,2G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 09 66,8G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 12 67,3G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 15 68,2G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 18 67,0G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 30 85,7G / 100G SILICA, BORON NITRIDE KOBO SMC BNS 9 48,9G / 100G AMYLOPECTIN SEPIFINE BB 45,2 G / 100G MAGNESIUM / POTASSIUM / SILI CON / FLUORIDE / HYDROXIDE / O XIDE SOFTSERICITE T 6 69,1 G / 100G SILICA, BORON NITRIDE KOBO SMC BNS 6 54,5 G / 100G SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPIT E STAR MICA 23 95,5 G / 100G

[0028] Advantageously, at least one charge can be chosen from among the charges whose linseed oil content, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is within a range of 45 to 100 g / 100g.

[0029] Advantageously, at least one load can be chosen from the loads listed in Table 2 below:

[0030] [Tables2] NOM INCI NOM COMMERCIAL ABSORPTION D'HUILE DE LIN EN G / 100G POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOX ANE TOS PEARL 2000B 45G / 100G TALC & LAUROYL LYSINE TALC L12 NLL 50G / 100G NYLON-11 ORGASOL GREEN T OUCH 70G / 100G SILICA [NANO] SPHERICA P1500 62G / 100G SILICA & CI 77891 & CI 77491 RONAFLAIR FLAWL ESS 48G / 100G METHYL METHACRYLATE C ROSSPOLYMER SEPIMAT HB V 72G / 100G TALC TALC LUZENAC 10 MO (NEIGE 10pM) 60G / 100G LAUROYL LYSINE AMIHOPE LL 74G / 100G KAOLIN IMERCARE 04 K 55G / 100G BORON NITRIDE RONAFLAIR BORON EIGE SF 3 100G / 100G KAOLIN KAOLIN BP LIGHT 50G / 100G DISTARCH PHOSPHATE RICE PO4 NATURAL 49G / 100G NYLON-12 ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS 84G / 100G KAOLIN & MICA & QUARTZ KAOLIN G35M 53G / 100G ORYZA SATIVA STARCH MAKIGREEN RICE S 65G / 100G LAUROYL LYSINE AMIHOPE LL 74G / 100G MICA SERICITE 300S 47,6G / 100G BORON NITRIDE RONAFLAIR BORON EIGE SF 6 89,2G / 100G ZEA MAYS STARCH & POLYVI NYL ALCOHOL & GLYCERIN CELUS BI FEEL 20 55,lG / 100G ZEA MAYS STARCH & POLYVI NYL ALCOHOL & GLYCERIN CELUS BI FEEL 10 55,3G / 100G BORON NITRIDE RONAFLAIR BORON EIGE SF 3 100G / 100G CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL POWDER VITACEL CS 7 OR ANGE 56,6G / 100G MICROCRYSTALLINE CELL ULOSE SENSOCEL 8 100G / 100G KAOLIN IMERCARE 04 K 55G / 100G ZEA MAYS STARCH & POLYVI NYL ALCOHOL & GLYCERIN CELUS BI FEEL 5 62,5G / 100G KAOLIN & ILLITE COSPINKAO 46,0G / 100G ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) STARCH NATIVACARE 8600 64,7 G / 100G PYRUS MALUS (APPLE) FIBER VITACEL CS 5 APPLE 63,5 G / 100G CELLULOSE (BAMBUSA AR UNDINACEA) SENSOCEL BC 20 90,4 G / 100G SILICA SENSIBEAD SI 320 57,6 G / 100G CELLULOSE SENSOCEL 10 93,2 G / 100G KAOLIN COSKAO 50,6 G / 100G MAGNESIUM / POTASSIUM / SILI CON / FLUORIDE / HYDROXIDE / O XIDE SENSIFEEL STAR SOFT 46 G / 100G ILLITE RONAFLAIR SATIN 71,2G / 100G CYCLODEXTRIN BEAUTE BY ROQUE TTE CD 100 48,8G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 02 54,0 G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 06 71,2G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 09 66,8G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 12 67,3G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 15 68.2G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 18 67.0G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 30 85.7G / 100G, SILICA, BORON NITRIDE KOBO SMC BNS 9 48.9G / 100G AMYLOPECTIN SEPIFINE BB 45.2 G / 100G MAGNESIUM / POTASSIUM / SILI CON / FLUORIDE / HYDROXIDE / O XIDE SOFTSERICITE T 6 69.1 G / 100G SILICA, BORON NITRIDE KOBO SMC BNS 6 54.5 G / 100G SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPIT E STAR MICA 23 95.5 G / 100G

[27] Advantageously, the filler can be selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof.

[0031]

[28] Advantageously, the charge can be chosen from the Polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride and mixtures thereof. Preferably, at least one filler may be selected from those listed in Table 3 below: [Tables 3] INCI NAME TRADE NAME FLAX OIL ABSORPTION ENG / 100G POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOX ANE TOS PEARL 2000B 45G / 100G TALC TALC LUZENAC 10 MO (SNOW lOpM) 60G / 100G KAOLIN IMERCARE 04 K 55G / 100G KAOLIN KAOLIN BP LIGHT 50G / 100G DISTARCH PHOSPHATE RICE PO4 NATURAL 49G / 100G KAOLIN & MICA & QUARTZ KAOLIN G35M 53G / 100G MICA SERICITE 300S 47.6G / 100G CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL POWDER VITACEL CS 7 OR ANGE 56.6G / 100G KAOLIN IMERCARE 04 K 55G / 100G KAOLIN & ILLITE COSPINKAO 46.0G / 100G SILICA SENSIBEAD SI 320 57.6G / 100G KAOLIN COSKAO 50.6G / 100G CYCLODEXTRIN BEAUTE BY ROQUE TTE CD 100 48.8G / 100G BORON NITRIDE CARESS BN 02 54.0 G / 100G SILICA, BORON NITRIDE KOBO SMC BNS 9 48.9 G / 100G AMYLOPECTIN SEPIFINE BB 45.2 G / 100G SILICA, BORON NITRIDE KOBO SMC BNS 6 54.5 G / 100G

[0032] Preferably, at least one filler is distarch phosphate, preferably rice powder (CAS = 55963-33-2).

[0033] Advantageously, the mixture according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 35% of at least one filler whose linseed oil content, according to EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / 100 g. Preferably, the mixture according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 30% of at least one filler whose linseed oil content, according to EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / 100 g.

[0034] The invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an association according to the invention.

[0035] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eyeshadow.

[0036] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0 to 50% by mass of water.

[0037] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be liquid or solid, preferably solid, at room temperature, i.e. at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25 °C. "Solid" means a composition whose melting point is above 30 °C.

[0038] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be anhydrous. "Anhydrous" means a composition essentially free of water. When anhydrous, the anhydrous composition according to the invention can comprise less than 5% water by mass, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0039] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more phases (aqueous, oily). The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion (O / W or W / O, for example a cream or a lotion), an ointment, or a powder dispersion in an oily phase (eyeshadow, lipstick).

[0040] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cosmetic excipients.

[0041] A cosmetic excipient is understood to mean any cosmetic compound that is not part of the combination according to the invention, nor of any cosmetic active ingredients present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention. The cosmetic excipient may be chosen, for example, from a butter, a wax, an oil identical or different from the alkane or mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention, a pigment, a colorant, a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, an antioxidant, a sunscreen, an emulsifier, a thickener, a gelling agent, an additional filler, a humectant, and water.

[0042] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 80% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention, relative to the total mass of the composition. When the cosmetic composition is a lipstick, it may comprise from 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention. When the cosmetic composition is a foundation, it may comprise from 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention. When the cosmetic composition is a sunscreen, it may comprise from 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention.

[0043] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "from 1 to 5%", the values ​​1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[0044] In the present invention, all percentages (%) are given as mass percentages, relative to the total mass of the association or relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0045] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are composed exclusively or almost exclusively of products of natural origin. Thus, "almost exclusively" means a composition comprising less than 20% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than 10%, and even more preferably 5%, or even less than 1%. Unavoidable compounds such as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers, and pigments essential in makeup products are designated as materials of synthetic origin. For example, a lipstick composition may generally comprise less than 20% of products of synthetic origin (i.e., pigments). For example, a lip balm, concealer, or foundation composition may generally comprise less than 1% of products of synthetic origin.For example, a lip gloss formula typically contains less than 2% synthetic ingredients.

[0046] For the purposes of this invention, a "natural product" is defined as a product falling within the definition given in ISO 16128: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by molecular weight, by renewable carbon content, or by any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It may be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e., one found in nature. For the purposes of this invention, products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of naturally derived oils, preferably vegetable oils, are considered to be natural products.

[0047] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition may include an oil. The oil may be identical or different from the alkane or mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention.

[0048] In the context of the invention, "oil" means oily / fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid immiscible with water, that is to say, when introduced at a concentration of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is either completely insoluble in water, or soluble in The oil content must be less than 10% by mass relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil can be volatile or non-volatile. "Non-volatile" means an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). "Volatile" means an oil that evaporates upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oils usable in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, and preferably have a melting point below 20°C.

[0049] Advantageously, the oil may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable oils, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cottonseed, borage, rosehip, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soybean, sunflower, linseed, squalane (cane sugar oil), triglycerides, esters, vegetable alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 80% of at least one oil.

[0051] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one butter, preferably of vegetable origin.

[0052] The term "butter" refers to oily / fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention. Butters generally have a melting point within a range of 20°C to 45°C. The butters usable in the anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the invention are butters of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, preferably having a melting point between 20°C and 45°C.

[0053] Advantageously, the butter may be selected from the group comprising shea butter, cocoa butter, myristyl lactate, kpangnan butter, methylhydrogenated rosinate, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydroxystearic / linolenic / oleic polyglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 40% of at least one butter.

[0055] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one wax.

[0056] In the context of the invention, "wax" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (15-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose solid / liquid phase change is reversible. Waxes generally have a melting point above 30 °C (which can reach up to 200 °C), a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and exhibit anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. At its melting point, the wax becomes miscible with oils and can form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. When the mixture is brought back to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is possible.

[0057] Advantageously, the waxes used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are compounds of natural origin, solid at room temperature (i.e., at a temperature ranging from approximately 15 to 25°C). The combination of waxes according to the invention makes it possible to structure the composition, in particular the hot-poured anhydrous solutions and gels in stick, pan, or any type of support (such as lip gloss or lip stain). The waxes used in the compositions according to the invention may be hydrocarbon-based. The waxes used in the compositions according to the invention may be of natural origin, preferably vegetable-based. The waxes used in the compositions according to the invention may be derived from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable-based. In particular, the waxes used in the compositions according to the invention have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C at atmospheric pressure.

[0058] Advantageously, at least one wax may be selected from the group comprising glycerol behenic acid triple ester, camauba wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, avocado wax, apricot wax, rice wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated rice oil, behenyl behenate, glycerol behenate, C20-C40 alcohols, C30-C50 alcohols, C20-C40 alkyl stearates and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 30% of at least one wax.

[0060] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional filler.

[0061] In the context of the invention, the term "additional filler" means a solid substance, immiscible in the medium and dispersed by mechanical means in a matrix. It may be of mineral or vegetable origin and may be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin. It may be identical to or different from the at least one filler whose setting is linseed oil, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g / lOOg. The additional charge is different from distarch phosphate.

[0062] Advantageously, the additional filler may be selected from the group comprising calcium or zinc carbonate, kaolin (kaolinite or aluminum silicate), talc, bamboo silica, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, arrowroot, zeolite, zinc chloride hydroxide, mannan, tapioca starch, perlite, calcium silicate, montmorillonite, magnesium oxide, celluloses (e.g., celluloses, microcrystalline celluloses, or carboxymethyl cellulose), starches (e.g., starch or modified starch such as carboxymethyl starch), and mixtures thereof. The additional filler may also be selected from a filler or mixture of fillers listed in Tables 1, 2, or 3, with the exception of distarch phosphate.

[0063] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 15% of at least one additional filler.

[0064] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative and / or an antimicrobial agent.

[0065] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one antioxidant.

[0066] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional components conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a UV filter (UV-A and / or UV-B), an emulsifier (for example lecithin), a gelling agent or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin.

[0067] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigment and / or colorant. The pigment may be selected from the group comprising organic, inorganic, and / or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black, or colored), lacquers, pearlescent pigments, and / or optical effect pigments. They may be synthetic or natural.

[0068] In the context of the invention, "pigment" means organic, inorganic, or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lacquers, mother-of-pearls, or pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. Mineral (inorganic) pigments may be selected from metallic oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc, or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, iron blue, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments may be D&C Red 6, D&C Red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C Red 40 aluminum lake, D&C Red 21 aluminum lake, D&C Red 36, FD&C Yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C Red 7 aluminum lake, and D&C Red 30.

[0069] In the context of the invention, "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally exhibits color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on various substrates, including mica, synthetic fluorflogopithe, and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the preceding paragraph.

[0070] In the context of the invention, "colorant" means coloring substances that are not pigments or pearlescent pigments. For example, it could be a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[0071] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01 to 25% pigment, preferably from 0.01 to 5% for a balm or gloss, from 5 to 25% for a corrector and foundation, from 0.5 to 20% for a lipstick or lip stain.

[0072] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01 to 10% colorant.

[0073] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fragrance. "Fragrance" is understood to mean a perfume composition whose primary function is to modify the odor of a product or to impart a fragrance to a product.

[0074] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5% of at least one fragrance, preferably from 0.05 to 5%

[0075] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0076] In the context of this invention, a "cosmetic active ingredient" means a substance or mixture of substances intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, hair and scalp, lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or primarily to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odors. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient that acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient may be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, or redensifying.

[0077] Advantageously, the cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising cornflower, German chamomile, chamomile, edulis, cotton, camellia, vanilla, mango, raspberry, and blackberry extracts. The cosmetic active ingredient can be easily selected by a person skilled in the art according to the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorizing)

[0078] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0079] An object of the invention is also a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eyeshadow comprising the combination of raw materials according to the invention.

[0080] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example, when the composition is a lipstick): - 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention, - 5 to 30% of at least one wax (e.g., of a triple ester of glycerol and behenic acid), - 1 to 20% of pigments, - optionally from 0.01 to 2% of at least one fragrance, and - optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given in relation to the total mass of the composition. The sum of the percentages is equal to 100%.

[0081] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example, when the composition is a liquid foundation): - 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention, - 4 to 20% of an oil, 5 to 20% of pigments, - optionally from 0.01 to 2% of at least one perfume, and - optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given in relation to the total mass of the composition.

[0082] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example, when the composition is a sunscreen): - 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials of the invention, - 5 to 25% of at least one sunscreen filter, - optionally from 0.01 to 2% of at least one fragrance, and - optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given in relation to the total mass of the composition.

[0083] The invention also includes the use of a combination of raw materials according to the invention in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eyeshadow.

[0084] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably the lips and / or skin, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the lips and / or skin at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0085] The invention also includes the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips and / or skin.

[0086] Advantageously, the use according to the invention can be a use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to make up, protect, nourish and / or wash keratinous materials, preferably the lips and / or the skin.

[0087] The invention further encompasses a stick, stick, element / kit for care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and / or makeup, ointment, pomade, powder, lipstick, foundation, concealer, corrector, gloss, lip stains, body or face care product, makeup remover, cream, lotion, milk, deodorant / antiperspirant, or anti-aging, comprising a combination of raw materials according to the invention.

[0088] The invention further relates to an article (for example: tube, jar, vial, case, tissue paper) comprising a combination of raw materials according to the invention or a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The article may also be the combination according to the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention, when the latter can be marketed without packaging.

[0089] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing the combination of raw materials according to the invention, comprising the steps: a) Mixing the alkane or mixture of alkanes and the film-forming agent, b) Gradually introducing the feedstock into the mixture obtained in step a), while stirring, c) Continue stirring the mixture obtained in step b) for a period of 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 2 minutes.

[0090] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising bringing into contact the combination of raw materials according to the invention and one or more cosmetic excipients and optionally one or more cosmetic actives, followed by mixing until homogenization.

[0091] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

[0092] Examples

[0093] The linseed oil absorption of the feedstocks was measured according to EN ISO 787-5. The measurements were carried out at ambient temperature in the laboratory (i.e., 20

[0094] Example 1: cosmetic composition of foundation (cosmetic composition 1)

[0095] This example presents the preparation of a cosmetic foundation composition (cosmetic composition 1) according to the invention comprising an association according to the invention.

[0096] Table 4 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic composition 1:

[0097] [Tables4] Phase INCI % A PIGMENTS 15-20 A GLYCEROL TRIHEPTANOATE 8 - 10 B STEARALKONIUM BENTONITE 0.5-1 B C13 C15 ALKANE 1.5-2.5 C POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DILINOLEATE C OPOLYMER 3-6 C POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE & POLYGLYCER YL-3 OLEATE 5-6.5 C C13 C15 ALKANE 9- 12 D AQUA 35 D GLYCERINE 2-4 D PRESERVATIVES 2.8 D SALT 1.5 E DISTARCH PHOSPHATE 2-5

[0098] The cosmetic composition 1 comprises 15.5 - 25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here, the combination consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer and distarch phosphate, 56.8 - 67.7 / 19.3 - 23.5 / 12.9 - 19.6 (% / % / %).

[0099] Equipment used: IKA: mechanical agitator, Rayneri: Turbotest benchtop mixer, Tricylindre: three-cylinder crusher.

[0100] Cosmetic composition 1 is prepared by following these steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C): 1) Mix in Beaker 1, cold, Phase C (= oily phase) with Rayneri + suitable deflocculant; 2) Mix Phase D (= aqueous phase) in Beaker 2, at room temperature, using the IKA stirrer under moderate stirring; 3) Mix in a small Beaker 3, Phase B (sprinkle the stearalkonium bentonite into the alkane while mixing with a magnetic stirrer); 4) Phase A: grind the pigments in the emollient "Glycerol Triheptanoate" with the tri-cylinder (3 successive passes); 5) Introduce the ground material from Phase A into Phase C + let it mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes; 6) Introduce Phase B into the Phase A+C mixture and let it mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes; 7) Introduce Phase D in a thin stream into the Phase A+B+C mixture, gradually increasing the speed at the same time as the introduction up to approximately 800 rpm; 8) Let it shake for 14 minutes at 800 rpm to allow the emulsion to form; 9) Reduce the agitation to 450 rpm and introduce Phase E by sprinkling + let it agitate for 5 minutes; 10) Reduce agitation to 150 rpm to remove bubbles + allow to agitate for 20 minutes.

[0101] The durability of cosmetic composition 1 was evaluated at t = 16 hours and t = 24 hours after application.

[0102] This study was conducted on a panel of 12 healthy Caucasian female volunteers. The evaluation was performed using standardized full-face photographs taken in a dark room under controlled temperature and relative humidity (temperature: 21 ± 1°C and humidity: 45 ± 5%). To ensure reproducibility, the photographs were taken on an optical measuring bench to maintain the face in the same position for all acquisitions.

[0103] The acquisitions were made at t = 0 (t0), at t = 16 hours (ti6), at t = 24 hours (t24).

[0104] The digital photographs were then evaluated by two experts trained in the rating of this type of shot. The suitability was thus graded on a scale as defined below: No suitability = 0, Moderate suitability = 5, Good suitability = 10, Very good suitability = 15.

[0105] The scores given by the two experts were then averaged to obtain the final score for the duration of makeup.

[0106] Thus, the durability of cosmetic composition 1 was rated 9.5 / 15 at t = 16 hours and 7.9 / 15 at t = 24 hours. The best third of the panel obtained a rating of 11.8 / 15 at t = 16 hours and 11.1 / 15 at t = 24 hours.

[0107] Under the study conditions, cosmetic composition 1 has a 24-hour hold.

[0108] Example 2 of a cosmetic lipstick composition (cosmetic composition 2)

[0109] Table 5 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic composition 2:

[0110] [Tableaux5] Phase INCI % A C13 C15 ALKANE 40.26 A POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DILI NOLEATE COPOLYMER 14.32 A DISTARCH PHOSPHATE 13.42 A TRIPLE ESTER OF GLYCEROL AND BEH ENIQUE ACID 5 B DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 9 B PIGMENTS 18 - - 100

[0111] Cosmetic composition 2 comprises 68% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here the combination consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer and distarch phosphate, 59.21 / 21.06 / 19.73 (% / % / %).

[0112] Cosmetic composition 2 is prepared by following these steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C): 1) Grind phase B with the three-cylinder mill (3 successive passes); 2) In a suitable beaker, weigh the ingredients of phase A; 3) Prepare phase A in a beaker and heat on a hot plate to 80°C with gentle stirring; 4) Once phase A is homogeneous, under medium stirring at IKA, introduce Phase B into phase A and leave under stirring for 5 min; 5) Remove the plate and allow to return to room temperature with gentle stirring; 6) Gradually add the rice powder. Make sure that the rice powder does not clump in the center of the blade; 7) Leave to stir for 2 minutes.

[0113] Under the study conditions, cosmetic composition 2 has a long-lasting effect due to good adhesion to the lips.

Claims

Demands

1. Association of raw materials comprising: - 30 to 75% of an alkane or mixture of alkanes in C12 to C30, - 10 to 35% of a film-forming agent, and - 10 to 35% of at least one filler whose linseed oil content is greater than 45 g / 100 g, the percentages being given as mass percentages relative to the total mass (100%) of the association.

2. Association according to claim 1, wherein the C12 to C30 alkane is selected from isododecane, a mixture of C1 to C15 alkanes, squalane or a mixture thereof, preferably a mixture of C1 to C15 alkanes or isododecane and even more preferably C1-C15 alkane or isododecane.

3. Association according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the film-forming agent is a dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, a polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer or a mixture thereof.

4. Association according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the filler is selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof.

5. Association according to claim the preceding claim in which, the charge is distarch phosphate, preferably rice powder.

6. A cosmetic composition comprising a combination according to any one of the preceding claims and comprising less than 20% of synthetically derived products by weight of the total composition, preferably less than 10% and even more preferably 5%, or even less than 1%, said synthetically derived products preferably being pigments or additional fillers.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, said cosmetic composition being selected from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eyeshadow.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, further comprising one or more cosmetic excipients selected from the group comprising a butter, a wax, an oil identical or different from the alkane or mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention, a pigment, a colorant, a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, an antioxidant, a sunscreen, an emulsifier, a thickener, a gelling agent, an additional filler, a humectant and water.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7 or 8, comprising from 10 to 80% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of claims 1 to 5, relative to the total mass of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, said composition being a lipstick, comprising from 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of claims 1 to 5, from 5 to 30% of at least one wax, and from 1 to 20% of pigments.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, said composition being a liquid foundation, comprising from 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of claims 1 to 5, from 4 to 20% of an oil other than the alkane, and from 5 to 20% of pigments.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, said composition being a sunscreen, comprising from 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials according to any one of claims 1 to 5, and from 5 to 25% of at least one sunscreen.

13. A method for manufacturing the raw material combination according to any one of claims 1 to 5 comprising the steps: a) Mixing the alkane or the mixture of alkanes and the film-forming agent, b) Gradually introducing the feedstock into the mixture obtained in step a), under agitation, c) Maintaining agitation of the mixture obtained in step b), for a period of 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 2 minutes.

14. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 6 to 12 comprising contacting the combination of raw materials according to any one of claims 1 to 5 with one or more cosmetic excipients 27 and possibly one or more cosmetic active ingredients, followed by mixing until homogenized.

15. Use of a combination of raw materials according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being selected from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eyeshadow.