dense area knitting process

Abstract

The invention relates to a circular knitting method for a knit fabric comprising at least one dense zone. According to the invention, the dense zone(s) of the knit fabric are created by knitting an alternation, in each row of stitches, of a first row of stockinette stitches and a second row of stockinette stitches. The first row of stockinette stitches is knitted using a first needle selection, which includes knitting at least one loaded stitch within the row of stockinette stitches, so as to form linking points with the inter-stitch loops of the second row of stitches. The second row of stockinette stitches is knitted using a second needle selection, which includes knitting a reinforcing yarn in addition to the main yarn. These dense zones can be used to make the knit fabric opaque in specific areas and thus create aesthetically pleasing shapes, or to reinforce the knit fabric to make it more resistant to wear.Figure for the summary: Fig. 3.

Description

Description Title of the invention: Dense zone knitting method. Technical field. The invention relates to the technical field of circular knitting, and more particularly to the circular knitting of footwear articles. Anterior artery It is known to produce knits by varying the selection of needles and yarns in order to obtain a knit whose mechanical or aesthetic characteristics are different depending on the areas of the knit considered. For example, it is known to add extra yarns, called reinforcing yarns, to certain areas of the knit so that the knit contains more material in those areas. These are therefore dense areas. It is possible to add a reinforcing yarn only every other row of stitches within a dense area. The resulting density is higher than that of the rest of the knit, but not sufficiently. It does not provide enough reinforcement for the knit to have good wear resistance. Furthermore, the addition of the extra yarn results in an uneven finish, creating unsightly stripes. This is due to the spacing between the rows of stitches containing the reinforcing yarn, visually creating a succession of opaque and less opaque lines. Thus, this knitting technique does not produce an aesthetically pleasing knit with good wear resistance. It is also possible to add a reinforcing thread for each row of stitches within the dense area. The resulting density is satisfactory because it is significantly higher than that of the rest of the knitting. However, this solution leads to production difficulties and knitting defects. Indeed, reinforcing yarns are used only in the dense areas of the knit. When not in use, they must be held in a standby position within the knitting machine. Referring to Figures 1 and 2, the knit yarns in standby position (A) are held by a brake plate (4) which pinches the yarns. It can be seen that if the knit contains a large number of yarns, the brake plate must consequently hold a large number of yarns. However, if one wishes to obtain areas much denser than the rest of the knit, for example by adding a reinforcing yarn for each row of stitches, the number of yarns in the knit becomes too high and the brake plate (4) can no longer perform its role of retaining the yarns: indeed, adjusting the air gap under the brake plate (4) requires very / too much precision and proves very difficult to achieve due to the design even the machine itself. The waiting threads are not positioned correctly, so they are not properly picked up by the needles. This results in machine stoppages or knitting defects. In the latter cases, the dense area is not uniform, and the knitting has a visual flaw. Furthermore, unused reinforcing yarns are cut, and the waste must be removed from the knitting machine. When too much reinforcing yarn is used, the machine cannot remove all the waste, causing it to accumulate and create a jam in the discharge chute. Again, this can result in the machine stopping, or at the very least, a knitting defect. Description of the invention One of the aims of the invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art by proposing an optimized industrial knitting process that produces dense areas within a knit fabric. These dense areas can be used to make the knit opaque in specific locations, thus creating aesthetically pleasing shapes, or to reinforce the knit fabric to make it more resistant to wear. To this end, a circular knitting process has been developed for a knit fabric using a knitting machine, in which the knit fabric is formed from a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a knitting yarn, and includes at least one dense area. According to the invention, the dense zone(s) are created by knitting an alternation, in each row of stitches, of a first row of stockinette stitches and a second row of stockinette stitches, such as: - the first row of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a first needle selection, including at least one loaded stitch within the row of stockinette stitches, so as to form linking stitches with the loops between the stitches of the second row of stockinette stitches, - the second row of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a second needle selection, including knitting a reinforcing yarn in addition to the knitting yarn. The size of the dense area depends on the number of rows and columns knitted using this method. The combination of two rows of stitches, achieved through their specific needle selections, allows for denser knitting while eliminating the need for reinforcing yarn at each row, which is responsible for production losses due to bunching and poor quality. Furthermore, the upper binding stitches between the rows tighten these rows and eliminate the uneven appearance caused by unsightly stripes. The resulting dense areas are opaque and have increased mechanical strength. It is therefore possible to knit efficiently, reliably, and consistently, creating a garment with sufficiently dense and aesthetically pleasing areas. The process may also include knitting a weft yarn between the first and second rows of stitches. This weft yarn imparts additional properties to the knit fabric, such as improved stability, greater elastic strength, or a different feel or appearance. In particular, adding a weft yarn allows for control of the elasticity of a textile article, especially a compression and / or support garment, by giving it superior elastic resistance. To strengthen the bond between the two rows of stitches, for the first needle selection, the weighted stitch is preferably worked every other stitch within the first row. This preferred method allows the rows of stitches to be tightened in such a way as to achieve a satisfactory level of density. In one of the two preferred applications, dense areas are used to make the knit opaque in specific locations, thus creating aesthetically pleasing shapes. These dense areas are created so that they form uniform geometric shapes (identical or similar) evenly distributed across the knit surface, with the total area of ​​the dense areas being less than 10% of the total knit surface, and preferably less than or equal to 5% of the total knit surface. For example, a dotted effect can be achieved directly through knitting. In the second preferred use, dense areas are used to reinforce the knit fabric, making it more resistant to wear. To protect the textile item from wear in the areas of greatest stress, the dense area(s) are preferably placed on a surface of the item in contact with the heel and / or a surface of the item in contact with the toes and / or the underside of the foot when the item is worn. Preferably, so that the difference with the rest of the knit is noticeable and sufficient, the dense area(s) have a surface density at least 20% higher than the rest of the knit, preferably at least 30% higher, and more preferably 40% higher. The invention also relates to a knit fabric obtained by a circular knitting process, the knit fabric being formed of a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a knitting yarn, and comprising at least one dense zone. According to the invention, the dense zone(s) are created by knitting an alternation, in each row of stitches, of a first row of stockinette stitches and a second row of stockinette stitches, such as: - the first row of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a first needle selection, including at least one loaded stitch within the row of stitches Jersey, so as to form linking points with the loops between the stitches of the second row of stitches, - the second row of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a second needle selection, including knitting a reinforcing yarn in addition to the knitting yarn. The size of the dense area depends on the number of rows and columns knitted using this method. In this way, the rows of stitches are tightened, eliminating the uneven appearance of unsightly stripes. The resulting knit has sufficiently dense and aesthetically pleasing areas. Furthermore, the knit exhibits fewer flaws than knits from earlier art. To give the knit fabric specific technical characteristics, it may also include a weft yarn knitted between the first and second rows of stitches. In particular, the addition of a weft yarn can control the elasticity of a textile article, especially a compression and / or support garment, giving it superior elastic resistance. To ensure that the rows of stitches are effectively tightened, the loaded stitch is preferably knitted every other stitch within the first row of stitches. In one of the two preferred applications, dense areas are used to create opaque patterns in specific locations, thereby creating aesthetically pleasing shapes. These dense areas are designed to create uniform geometric shapes evenly distributed across the knit surface, with the total area of ​​the dense areas being less than 10% of the total knit surface, and preferably less than or equal to 5%. This gives the knit a dotted effect without the need to embroider the geometric shapes directly onto the fabric. In the second preferred use, dense areas are used to reinforce the knit fabric, making it more resistant to wear. To protect the textile item from wear in the areas of greatest stress, the dense area(s) are preferably placed on a surface of the item in contact with the heel and / or a surface of the item in contact with the toes and / or the underside of the foot when the item is worn. For the difference with the rest of the knit to be noticeable and sufficient, the dense area(s) preferably have a surface density at least 20% higher than the rest of the knit, preferably at least 30% higher, and more preferably 40% higher. The invention also relates to a textile article comprising at least one knit fabric having at least one dense zone according to the aforementioned technical characteristics. According to one embodiment, the article is a stocking, tights or a sock. According to one embodiment, the textile article comprises at least one knit fabric having at least one dense area as described above, said article being a stocking, tights or sock, and in which the dense area(s) are located on a surface of the article in contact with the heel and / or a surface of the article in contact with the toes and / or a surface in contact with the lower surface of an individual's foot when the article is worn by an individual. Preferably, it is a compression and / or support item, the item then being intended for medical use. Brief description of the drawings [Fig.1] is a partial view of a circular knitting machine. [Fig.2] is a detailed view of the machine in [Fig.1]. [Fig.3] is a representation of a combination of needle selections used during the process according to the invention. [Fig.4] is another representation of a combination of needle selections used in the process according to the invention. [Fig.5] is a microscopic view of a knit outside of dense areas. [Fig.6A] is a microscopic view of the outer face of a knit within a dense area. [Fig.6B] is a diagram of [Fig.6A]. [Fig.6C] is a microscopic view of the inner face of a knit within a dense area. [Fig.6D] is a diagram of [Fig.6C]. [Fig.7] is a partial view of the shape of the dense area of ​​a footwear item. [Fig.8] is a diagram of a footwear article according to the invention. [Fig.9] is a diagram of another footwear article according to the invention. [Fig.10] is another representation of a combination of needle selections used in the process according to the invention. [Fig.11] is a representation of the repetition of geometric areas on a knit according to the invention. [Fig.12] is a diagram of a knit according to the invention. [Fig.13] is a diagram of another knitting pattern according to the invention. Detailed description of the invention The invention relates to a knitting method, a knit (1), and a textile article (3) incorporating such a knit (1). A combination of needle selections used is illustrated in [Fig. 3]: it comprises knitting an alternation of a first row (M1) of stockinette stitches and a second row (M2) of stockinette stitches. The rows of stitches (M1, M2) are knitted using any suitable yarn. In the case of footwear, the knitting yarn (5) may be, in particular, a single-covered or double-covered yarn, for example comprising a core yarn of elastane and covering yarns of polyamide. In a preferred embodiment, the core yarn is a 22 dtex elastane yarn, double-wrapped with 22 dtex polyamide wrapping yarns comprising 20 filaments, and with a false twist. It should be noted that 1 dtex = 1077 kg / m. In this embodiment, the two wrapping yarns preferably have opposite false twist directions. The reinforcing yarn (6) can be of any suitable type. A preferred reinforcing yarn (6) is a 13-filament, false-twisted polyamide yarn with a count of 44 dtex. Regarding the representations of needle selection in figures 3 and 4: - the positions (m) are those where the machine needles move upwards to pick up only the stitching yarn (5), and produce jersey stitches; - the positions (r) are those where the needles rise in full ascent to pick up the stitching yarn (5) as well as the reinforcing yarn (6); -positions (c) are those where the needles rise halfway up to pick up the yarn and make loaded stitches, in order to form superior linking points with the loops between stitches of the next row of stitches. In this way, the stockinette stitch (5) and the reinforcement stitch (6) inserted in the second row (M2) are picked up by the needles of the main stitches in the first row (M1). The rows (M1, M2) are thus brought closer together, and the effect of streaks or stripes that can appear with the needle selection in the previous work is eliminated. In the needle selection diagram [Fig. 3], every other stitch in the first row (M1) of the dense zone (2) is a loaded stitch (c) to tighten the rows of stitches in such a way as to obtain a satisfactory density level. However, a person skilled in the art can choose the distribution of loaded stitches to suit their needs, as well as the associated manufacturing parameters, such as the yarns used. For example, there could be a loaded stitch (c) every third stitch. In a preferred embodiment illustrated in [Fig. 4], the combination of needle selections further includes a row (T) in which a weft yarn (7) is knitted. In this embodiment, there is a succession of the first row (M1) of stitch, a row of weft (T), the second row (M2) of stitch, and then a row of weft (T). The weft yarn (7) serves to impart particular properties to the knit fabric (1), and can be of any type suitable for this purpose. In particular, the addition of a weft yarn allows control of the elasticity of a textile article, especially a compression article and / or for compression, by giving it superior elastic resistance. This can then be a single or double-covered yarn, for example with an elastane core yarn and polyamide coating yarns. In a preferred embodiment, the core yarn is a 310 dtex elastane yarn, double-wrapped with 22 dtex polyamide wrapping yarns, comprising 20 filaments, and with a false twist. In this embodiment, the two wrapping yarns preferably have reversed false twist directions. On the representation of needle selection illustrated in [Fig.4], positions (i) are those where the needles are inactive, that is, the weft yarn (7) is not picked up by the needles and makes a float on the knitting (1). With this representation, the reinforcing yarn (6) of the second row (M2) is picked at positions (c) with the mesh yarn (5) of the following row (M1). In this way it is possible to obtain a functionalized knit (1), for example in a compression and / or support article having superior elastic resistance, also including dense areas (2) which are significantly denser than the rest of the knit (1) and which have a satisfactory aesthetic for ready-to-wear, that is to say that there are no stripes or striations despite the fact that the reinforcing yarn (6) is inserted only one row of stitches out of two. In practice, using the preferred yarns detailed above, it is possible to obtain dense areas with a surface density of more than 40% than the rest of the knit: by weighing a certain determined area of ​​knit (1) at the output of the knitting machine, the Applicant found that the dense areas (2) weigh about 220 g / m2, while the rest of the knit weighs only about 155 g / m?. Of course, the person skilled in the art can adjust the parameters of the choice of yarns or the machine settings in order to obtain other ratios of surface densities, for example a dense zone (2) which is 20% or even 30% denser than the rest of the knitting (1). Figures 5 and 6A to 6D illustrate microscopic views of the knit (1) according to the needle selections of [Fig. 4]. [Fig. 5] is a view outside a dense area (2), and Figures 6A and 6C are views within a dense area (2). Figures 6B and 6D are diagrams reproducing views 6A and 6C, and allowing the identification of the different yarns of the knit (1) in views 6A and 6C. We see on [Fig.5] the knit (1) comprising only stockinette stitches made by the knit yarn (5), and the weft yarn (7) making a float between two stitches, the latter being picked up only every other time. Here, the knit (1) is relatively fine and smooth. Figures GA to 6D show the knitting including the reinforcing yarn (6), and the arrangement of the different rows of stitches (M1, M2) and the rows of weft (T) which gives the dense area (2) the desired reinforcement and opacity. Figures 6AA and 6C further show that the weft yarn (7) is located inside the knit (1), while the reinforcing yarn (6) is located outside the knit (1), thus improving the wear resistance of the knit (1). Moreover, the dense zone (2) is more resistant and raised, which contributes to locally thickening the knit (1). Figure 7 shows a partial view of the dense zone shape of the knit fabric (1) intended for the manufacture of a textile article (3) as illustrated in Figure 8. A large dense zone (2) covers the entire surface that will come into contact with the heel, arch, and toes of the wearer. The textile article (3) shown is a sock, but its application is not limited to socks, stockings, or tights. The large dense zone (2) thus reinforces the textile article (3) in the areas most subject to wear, in this case, during walking. The textile article (3) may be a compression and / or support article, for example for medical purposes. In this case, the knit (1) constituting the article preferably includes a weft yarn (7). The textile article (3) may also be a dress stocking or dress sock or dress tights, i.e., one whose use is not for medical purposes. In this case, the knit generally does not include a weft yarn (7). The textile article (3) thus produced is reinforced in its most stressed areas, which are therefore subject to wear. The textile article (3) according to the invention therefore has increased longevity, without increasing its manufacturing cost, because the knitting process according to the invention does not impact production rates or scrap rates, unlike prior art processes. Of course, the person skilled in the art can adapt the number and shape of the dense areas (2) according to the type of knitting and article that he wishes to manufacture. Figure 9 illustrates another textile article (3) comprising a knit (1) and two dense zones (2) reinforcing said knit (1) at sensitive points, provided on surfaces intended to come into contact with the heel and toes of an individual's foot. The dense zones (2) obtained by the invention have a greater thickness than the rest of the knit (1). By judiciously choosing the dimensions and distribution of these dense zones (2) on the knit (1), it is possible to obtain textures or appearances that are usually achieved through additional manufacturing steps. For example, a dotted pattern is traditionally obtained by embroidering a thread onto a fabric to create raised dots. For a dotted pattern, the raised dots are small. Depending on the desired effect and to highlight the raised areas of the denser areas (2), the total surface area of ​​the denser areas (2) is less than 20% of the total surface area of ​​the knit (1), or even less than 10%, and of preference less than or equal to 5%. Figure 10 illustrates another representation of a combination of needle selections in which the dense areas (2) are only 5 stitches wide and 12 rows high. Figure 11 represents the repetition of geometric zones in which the dense zones (2) of Figure 10 are arranged regularly on the knit fabric (1). This can be a rectangular matrix of varying height or width, or successive staggered rows as illustrated. The knit fabric (1) obtained with such a repetition of geometric zones exhibits a dotted effect directly from the knitting machine. The advantage is therefore economic, since it eliminates an additional manufacturing step. The geometric shape of the dense area (2) to be repeated to obtain the dotted effect can be adapted according to aesthetic requirements. The dense area can be circular, oval, rectangular, or any other desired shape. The regular distribution of dense areas (2) on the knit (1) can include, for example, symmetries or rotations. Figures 12 and 13 illustrate two examples of plumetis effects obtained: - [Fig.12] represents the repetition of dense areas of circular shape, as found on traditional plumetis; - [Fig.13] represents the repetition of dense triangular-shaped areas, in which the geometric shapes are rotated 180° every other time along a row. Furthermore, the method and the knitting (1) can be carried out differently from the figures without departing from the scope of the invention, which is defined by the claims. In particular, the combination of needle selections can be carried out differently from those illustrated in the figures. As an alternative not shown, the combination of needle selections may include a different alternation of rows of stitches and weft. For example, the rhythm may be: - first row (M1) of mesh, second row (M2) of mesh, weft row (T), and so on; - first row (M1) of mesh, row of weft (T), second row (M2) of mesh, and so on; - or any other functional combination chosen by a person skilled in the art, while respecting the alternation at each row of stitches, of a first row (M1) of stockinette stitches and a second row (M2) of stockinette stitches. The yarns used can be adapted to the intended application for knitting (1). Their counts, compositions and material(s) can therefore be different. Furthermore, the technical characteristics of the various embodiments and variants mentioned above can be combined, either in whole or in part. Thus, the process and the knitting can be adapted according to the desired costs, functionalities, and performance.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for circular knitting of a knit fabric (1) using a knitting machine knitting, in which the knitting (1) is formed from a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a knitting yarn (5), and includes at least one dense zone (2), characterized in that the dense zone(s) (2) are achieved by knitting an alternating pattern, in each row of stitches, of a first row (M1) of stockinette stitches and a second row (M2) of jersey stitches, such as: - the first row (M1) of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a first needle selection, including at least one loaded stitch within the row of stockinette stitches, so as to form stitches of binding with the inter-stitch loops of the second row (M2) of stitches, - the second row (M2) of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a second needle selection, including knitting a reinforcing yarn (6) in addition to the mesh thread (5).

2. A method according to claim 1, further comprising knitting a weft thread (7) between the first row (M1) of stitches and the second row (M2) of stitches.

3. A method according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein, for the first needle selection, knitting a loaded stitch is worked every other stitch, within the first row (M1) of stitches.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, in in which the dense areas (2) create uniform geometric shapes dispersed regularly over the surface of the knit (1) and whose The total area of ​​densely populated areas (2) is less than 10% of the area total knitting (1), and preferably less than or equal to 5% of the total surface area of ​​the knitting.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, in in which the dense zone(s) (2) have a surface density at least 20% higher than the rest of the knitting (1), preferably at least 30% higher superior, and preferably 40% superior.

6. Knitting (1) obtained by a circular knitting process, the knitting (1) being formed from a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a yarn of mesh (5), and comprising at least one dense zone (2), characterized in that the dense zone(s) {2) are made by knitting an al- alternating, at each row of stitches, a first row (M1) of stockinette stitches and a second row (M2) of stockinette stitches, such as that: - the first row (MI) of stockinette stitches is knitted according to a first needle selection, including at least one loaded stitch within the row of stockinette stitches, so as to form stitches of binding with the inter-stitch loops of the second row (M2) of jersey knit, - the second row (M2) of stockinette stitches knitted according to a second needle selection, including knitting a reinforcing yarn (6) in supplement of the mesh thread (5).

7. Knitting (1) according to claim 6, further comprising a weft yarn (7) knitted between the first row (M1) of stitches and the second row (M2) of stitches.

8. 'Knitting (1) according to claim 6 or claim 7, wherein the The loaded stitch is knitted every other stitch, within the first row (M1) of stitches.

9. Knitting (1) according to any one of claims 6 to 8, in which dense areas (2) have a surface density at least 20% higher to the rest of the knitting (1), preferably at least 30% higher, and even preferably 40% higher.

10. Knitting (1) according to any one of claims 6 to 9 in which Dense areas (2) create uniform geometric shapes dispersed regularly over the surface of the knit (1) and whose The total area of ​​densely populated areas (2) is less than 10% of the area total knitting (1), preferably less than or equal to 5% of the surface total knitting (1).

11. Textile article (3) comprising at least one knit (1) equipped with at least a dense area (2) according to any one of claims 6 to 10.

12. Textile article (3), said article being a stocking, tights or sock.

13. Textile article (3) comprising at least one knit (1) provided with at least a dense zone (2) according to any one of claims 6 to 9, said article being a stocking, tights or sock, characterized in that the or the dense areas (2) are located on a surface of the article in contact with the heel and / or a surface of the article in contact with the toes and / or a surface in contact with the lower surface of the foot of an individual when the item is worn by an individual.

14. Textile article (3) according to any one of claims 11 to 13, ca- characterized as a compression garment.