INSULATION DEVICE AND METHOD OF USE

The belay device addresses the trade-off in existing systems by using a roller with adjustable friction and a spring mechanism to securely lock the rope based on tension, enhancing user-friendly operation and safety.

FR3125971B1Active Publication Date: 2024-12-20ZEDEL CORP
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2021008451
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-08-03
Publication Date
2024-12-20
Estimated Expiration
2041-08-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing belay devices face a trade-off between ease of use and secure rope handling, as they either require complex manipulation to adjust friction or lack sufficient security features, particularly in detecting and blocking rope movement based on tension rather than speed.

Method used

A belay device with a roller that rotates in two directions, movable between three positions, and a spring mechanism to adjust friction based on rope tension, combined with a handle to control rope direction and an optional speed detector for enhanced safety.

Benefits of technology

The device provides secure rope blocking independent of rope speed, with adjustable friction for easy handling, ensuring safety by locking the rope when tension exceeds a threshold, and detecting rapid movements.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

BELAY DEVICE AND METHOD OF USE A belay device comprises a housing with an opening for a rope loop. A roller (5) is movably mounted within the housing and free-spinning. The roller (5) is movably mounted between first, second, and third roller positions. A rotation lock (19, 20) allows free rotation of the roller (5) or locks one direction of rotation of the roller (5) depending on the position of the roller (5) within the housing. The rotation lock (19, 20) allows free rotation when the roller (5) is in the first roller position and locks one direction of rotation of the roller (5) when the roller (5) is in the second and third roller positions. A spring (8) forces the roller (5) towards the first roller position and transforms a force on the roller (5) into a roller position within the housing. Figure for the abbreviation: Figure 6
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Description

Title of the invention: INSURANCE DEVICE AND METHOD OF USE Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a belaying device and its method of use. State of the art

[0002] In mountaineering and other mountain activities, it is common to have a belay device inside which passes a rope that connects the climber and the belayer. Belay devices must address two distinct issues. The belayer must be easy to use, that is to say, it must be easy to pass the rope through the belayer in order to provide slack to the climber or, on the contrary, to quickly retract the rope. There is therefore a need for a rope circulation path that has low friction.

[0003] It is also necessary for the belayer to be safe by offering adjustable braking of the rope during the climber's descent and / or have an assisted blocking. It is also interesting that the belayer is tolerant of poor handling and above all that it is not too complex to handle.

[0004] These two constraints are technically quite contradictory because to provide adjustable braking or assisted blocking of the rope, it is necessary to have an element in continuous contact with the rope and with sufficient friction to detect the conditions of movement of the rope in the belayer. There is therefore a compromise to be made between safety and practicality of use when making the belayer.

[0005] For example, “tube” type insurers such as those marketed by the applicant under the name “reverso®” or “verso” do not have assisted rope locking or fall detection. It is necessary to always hold the rope firmly.

[0006] There are also cam-type belay devices that have a cam mounted so that it can rotate. The cam pivots between a first position where the rope is pinched between the cam and a blocking zone and a second position where the distance between the cam and the blocking zone is greater than the diameter of the rope, which allows the rope to slide. The rope circulates inside the belay device and slides along the cam, which introduces friction. The shape of the cam and the shape of the rope's path in the belay device make it possible to define the intensity of the rope's friction. To provide rope to the climber, it is necessary to acquire a certain dexterity in order to avoid rotating the cam and thus blocking the sliding of the rope. The intensity of the friction varies according to the diameter of the rope and its wear.

[0007] Document US2014 / 0262611 illustrates an insurer configuration that modifies the Cam device. The belayer is a cam belayer whose cam portion is formed by a rotating roller. The roller is mounted to rotate in both directions and has a roller locking system when the roller's rotation speed is higher than a threshold speed. The angular rotation speed of the roller represents the linear speed of the rope's movement in the belayer. As in other cam devices, the rope slides along the cam and generates friction to actuate the cam when the tension in the rope increases. When the rope moves at too high a speed, the roller locks, which greatly increases the friction between the rope and the cam and tends to actuate the cam. The device then functions like a cam device.It appears that this configuration is difficult to implement because the coefficient of friction between the rope and the cam varies greatly depending on the rotation speed of the roller and the rotation speed of the roller depends on the friction that exists with the rope. In other words, the locking of the rope by means of the cam is highly dependent on the shape of the cam, the diameter of the rope and the surface condition of the rope and the integration of the roller in the cam.

[0008] In another technical field, document FR2149047 discloses a safety fall arrest device which is equipped with a rotating roller. The rope goes around the roller and when the rotation speed of the roller reaches a limit value, the roller locks, which blocks the progression of the rope. A substantially equivalent teaching is present in document FR2513886.

[0009] Finally, roller belay devices are known which have a roller in contact with the rope. The roller is mounted so as to be able to rotate in both directions so as not to hinder the user during the rope supply phases or during the rope absorption phases according to the climber's needs. The belay device marketed by the company Wild Country under the name Revo and presented in document US2016 / 0310767 is a belay device which has a rope entry hole, a rope exit hole and a roller which deflects the rope between the entry hole and the exit hole. The deflection applied to the rope ensures significant contact between the rope and the roller. The roller is associated with a device for locking the roller when the angular speed of rotation of the roller reaches a threshold value. However, in use, it appears that controlling the descent is not easy because there is little friction between the rope and the parts forming the belay device.It also appears that the detection of the descent speed is highly dependent on the fouling present in the belayer and in particular at the level of the pawls which lock the roller. Finally, the belayer is configured to lock when the threshold speed is reached, which corresponds to a fall. As with a "tube" type belayer, there is no way to achieve a secure static lock, which can happen when the climber needs to rest or when he . works the track.

[0010] In another technical field, roller devices with a brake are also known for rescue operations. It is possible to cite document US7,658,264 which discloses a roller descender with a roller rotating in only one direction of rotation. The roller is configured to rotate when the rope is pulled to raise the injured person and to lock when the rope is stopped pulling. When the rope is stopped pulling, the brake is engaged to lock the rope. To lower the injured person, a wheel must be turned which moves the brake, allowing the rope to slide. The device is bulky and heavy because it is intended for rescue operations. It is not suitable for securing a climber. In the same technical field, it is known from document US7419138 to form a rescue device with a roller rotating in only one direction.The roller is mounted eccentrically to move towards or away from a pad so that the rope is trapped between the pad and the roller. When the rope is pulled to lift the injured person, the roller moves away from the pad and the roller rotates on itself. When the rope is stopped pulling, the roller locks because rotation in the other direction is prohibited and the roller moves closer to the pad to block the rope. In the absence of stress, the roller is in contact or almost in contact with the pad. A handle is operated to move the roller and adjust the sliding of the rope between the roller and the clamp. It is also possible to cite document US 10828516 with a roller associated with a clamp mounted opposite a pad. Here again, the roller only rotates in one direction and the handle moves the clamp to adjust the sliding of the rope between the clamp and the pad. Statement of the invention

[0011] An object of the invention is to overcome these drawbacks, and more particularly to provide a belaying device which is capable of blocking the rope more securely without generating too much friction with the rope when it is necessary to absorb rope from the climber or to supply rope to the climber.

[0012] This result is achieved by means of a belaying device which comprises - a housing intended to receive a rope loop, the housing defining a hooking point intended to hook the belaying device to an anchoring point and at least one opening for the passage of the strands of the rope loop, - a pad delimiting the at least one opening; - a roller arranged in the housing and mounted to rotate in two directions of rotation, the roller also being mounted to move in the housing, in a first direction of movement, between a first roller position, a second roller position and a third roller position, the second roller position being closer to the opening than the first roller position, the third roller position being closer to the pad than the second roller position, the roller being intended to be in contact with the rope loop over at least 40% of its perimeter, - a rotation blocker configured to allow rotation of the roller in both directions of rotation or to block at least one direction of rotation of the roller depending on the position of the roller inside the housing, the position blocker being configured to allow rotation of the roller in both opposite directions of rotation when the roller is in the first roller position and to block at least one direction of rotation of the roller when the roller is in the second roller position and when the roller is in the third roller position, - a first spring having a first end connected to the housing and a second end connected to the roller to bias the roller towards the first roller position, the first spring transforming a force from the rope loop on the roller into a position of the roller in the housing, - a handle mounted movable between a first handle position and a second handle position, wherein, in the third roller position, the handle is operatively connected to the housing and the roller such that a force applied to the handle to move the handle generates a force on the roller toward the second roller position.

[0013] According to one aspect of the invention, the roller is provided with a toothed wheel and a hook is mounted on the housing, the toothed wheel being in contact with the hook when the roller is in the second roller position and the toothed wheel being at a distance from the hook when the roller is in the first roller position, the hook and the toothed wheel forming the rotation blocker.

[0014] Preferably, the hook is mounted to move relative to the housing between a first hook position and a second hook position. When the hook is in a first hook position and the roller is in the second roller position, the toothed wheel is in contact with the hook. When the hook is in a second hook position and the roller is in a third roller position, the toothed wheel is in contact with the hook.

[0015] According to another aspect, a hook spring applies a force to the hook, the hook spring placing the hook in the first hook position in the absence of external bias.

[0016] Advantageously, the handle is configured to move the roller to the second roller position such that actuation of the handle does not allow rotation of the roller in either direction of rotation.

[0017] It is particularly advantageous to provide that in the third roller position, the shoe partially obstructs a groove in the roller.

[0018] In an advantageous configuration, an additional rotation blocker is configured to block the rotation of the roller when its rotation speed reaches a threshold value.

[0019] In a preferred development, the roller rotates about a first rotation shaft. The first spring is configured to adjust the size of the rotation shaft perpendicular to the rotation axis of the roller, the first spring being configured to apply a force to the rotation shaft and move the rotation axis and the roller toward the first roller position.

[0020] The invention also relates to a method of using a belay device which is easier to use than the methods of the prior art. This result is aimed at being achieved by means of a method of using a belay device comprising the following steps: - provide a belay device according to any of the preceding configurations, - install a rope loop in the belay device, the rope loop going around the roller, - the tension in the rope being lower than a first threshold value, move the rope in one direction then in the opposite direction to cause the roller to rotate in one direction of rotation then in the other direction of rotation; - increase the tension in the rope until the roller reaches the second roller position, the roller blocking at least one direction of rotation, - further increase the tension in the rope until the rope is locked. Description of the drawings

[0021] Other advantages and characteristics will emerge more clearly from the following description of particular embodiments and implementations of the invention given as non-limiting examples and represented in the appended drawings, in which:

[0022] [Fig-1]: [Fig.l] illustrates, schematically, a first embodiment of a belaying device according to the invention without a cover and in a position allowing the rope to slide and the roller to rotate in two opposite directions;

[0023] [Fig.2]: [Fig.2] illustrates, schematically, the belaying device of [Fig.l] in a position allowing the roller to rotate in one direction and the rope to slide;

[0024] [Fig.3]: [Fig.3] illustrates, schematically, the belaying device of [Fig.l] in a position intended to block the rope and allowing the rotation of the roller in one direction only;

[0025] [Fig.4]: [Fig.4] illustrates, schematically, in section, the belaying device re- presented in [Fig.l];

[0026] [Fig.5]: [Fig.5] schematically illustrates, in section, the belaying device re shown in [Fig.l] with a roller rotation speed detector in the locking position;

[0027] [Fig.6]: [Fig.6] schematically illustrates an exploded view of the device belaying shown in [Fig.l];

[0028] [Fig.7]: [Fig.7] schematically illustrates the belaying device shown in [Fig.l] with the hood closing the belay device;

[0029] [Fig.8]: [Fig.8] schematically illustrates another embodiment of a belay device with the cover closing the belay device;

[0030] [Fig.9]: [Fig.9] schematically illustrates an exploded view of the device belaying shown in [Fig.8];

[0031] [Fig.10]: [Fig.10] schematically illustrates the belaying device illustrated in [Fig.8] without a cover and in a position allowing the rope to slide and the roller to rotate in two opposite directions;

[0032] [Fig.11]: [Fig.11] schematically illustrates the belaying device of [Fig.10] in a position allowing the rope to slide and the roller to be locked in at least one direction;

[0033] [Fig. 12]: [Fig. 12] schematically illustrates the belaying device of [Fig. 10] in a position intended to block the rope and possibly allowing the rotation of the roller in one direction only;

[0034] [Fig. 13]: [Fig. 13] schematically illustrates the support and the roller of the belaying device illustrated in [Fig. 10] without a cover and in a position allowing the rotation of the roller in two opposite directions;

[0035] [Fig. 14]: [Fig. 14] schematically illustrates the support and the roller of the belaying device illustrated in [Fig. 10] without a cover and in a position blocking at least one direction of rotation of the roller by pivoting the roller;

[0036] [Fig. 15]: [Fig. 15] schematically illustrates an exploded view of the support and the roller of the belaying device illustrated in figures 10 to 14;

[0037] [Fig. 16]: [Fig. 16] schematically illustrates an exploded view of another embodiment of the support and the roller of the belaying device illustrated in [Fig. 10];

[0038] [Fig. 17]: [Fig. 17] schematically illustrates, in section, the support and the roller of the belaying device illustrated in [Fig. 13], the rotation shaft having a maximum size;

[0039] [Fig. 18]: [Fig. 18] schematically illustrates, in section, the support and the roller of the belaying device illustrated in [Fig. 16], the rotation shaft having minimal bulk. Detailed description

[0040] Figures 1 to 18 illustrate different embodiments of a belay device. Preferably, the belay device is a self-locking belay device, i.e. it is configured to lock the rope when the stress in the rope inside the belay device is greater than a limit value. Once the rope is locked, the user must perform a specific action to allow the rope to slide inside the belay device. When the user stops his action, the belay device locks the rope again if the tension is greater than the limit value.

[0041] The belay device has a housing for receiving a rope loop. The housing is preferably openable to allow easy insertion of the code loop. The housing defines at least one opening to allow the strands of the rope loop to pass through. In the illustrated embodiments, the housing defines a single opening, but it is also possible for the housing to define two openings.

[0042] In a particular embodiment, the housing is partly formed by a first flange 1. The first flange 1 is preferably substantially planar. The housing and preferably the first flange 1 define or have an attachment point 2 which is intended to attach the belaying device to an anchor point. The anchor point may be the user's harness but it is possible to use another element to form the anchor point.

[0043] In the illustrated embodiments, the attachment point 2 is formed by a hole which is a through hole inside the first flange 1. A carabiner or any other type of connector passes through the hole to attach the belay device to the user. The attachment point 2 may also be formed by a connector of the belay device, for example a carabiner.

[0044] A pad 3 forming a first blocking zone is present in the housing and preferably delimits the at least one opening of the housing. In the illustrated embodiments, the pad 3 projects from a first face 1a of the first flange 1, in a first direction. The first direction is perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the first face 1a to form a projecting zone. The pad 3 is intended to block the rope in the belay device. According to the preferred embodiments, the pad 3 is formed with the remainder of the first flange 1 or the pad 3 is fixed to the first flange 1. The pad 3 can be fixed to the first flange 1 by means of a nut 3a

[0045] Preferably, the housing has a second flange 4 mounted movably and / or removable relative to the first flange 1, which facilitates the insertion of the rope. The second flange 4 closes the space intended to receive the rope and can delimit in part of the opening.

[0046] The belaying device has a roller 5 provided with two distinct movements in the housing. On the one hand, the roller 5 is mounted freely, that is to say rotating in two opposite directions of rotation. The roller 5 is mounted to rotate around a first rotation shaft 6 which defines a first axis of rotation. The first axis of rotation of the roller 5 passes through the roller 5 at its center. When the rope loop is installed in the belaying device, the rope loop goes around the roller 5 so that the rope is in contact with the groove of the roller 5. The rope goes around the roller 5 by coming into contact with the roller 5 over a distance equal to at least a quarter of the perimeter, preferably at least a third of the perimeter and even more preferably at least 40% or at least half of the perimeter.

[0047] It is particularly advantageous to have a roller 5 movable in the two opposite directions of rotation because this makes it easier to circulate the rope inside the belaying device during the two phases of rope circulation, to give rope to the climber or on the contrary to take rope from him with a low friction force.

[0048] On the other hand, the roller 5 is mounted movably in the housing to move closer to or further away from the opening and / or the pad 3. In other words, the first rotation shaft 6 is mounted movably in the housing to move closer to or further away from the opening. The axis of rotation of the roller 5 moves relative to the first flange 1.

[0049] The opening of the box is delimited by two delimiters 7, one delimiter 7 of which is preferably formed by the pad 3. The rope loop exits the belaying device by resting on the two delimiters 7 and going around the roller 5.

[0050] The roller 5 is mounted movably so as to be able to move inside the housing in addition to its rotation. The roller 5 is mounted movably so as to be able to move between several positions. In a first direction of movement, the roller 5 moves between a first roller position, a second roller position and a third roller position. The second roller position is between the first roller position and the third roller position. The second roller position is closer to the opening than the first roller position and possibly closer to the pad 3 than the first roller position. The third roller position is closer to the pad 3 than the second roller position and possibly closer to the opening than the second roller position.

[0051] The belaying device has a rotation blocker which is configured to allow rotation of the roller 5 in both directions or to block at least one of the two directions of rotation depending on the position of the roller 5 inside the housing. In one case, the rotation blocker is configured to allow rotation in both directions of rotation or to allow rotation in a single direction of rotation depending on the position of roller 5 inside the housing. In another case, the rotation blocker is configured to allow rotation in both directions of rotation or to block rotation in both directions of rotation depending on the position of roller 5 inside the housing

[0052] The rotation blocker is configured to allow rotation of the roller 5 in both opposite directions of rotation when the roller 5 is in the first roller 5 position. The rotation blocker is configured to allow rotation of the roller in only one direction of rotation or to be devoid of rotation when the roller 5 is in the second roller 5 position. The rotation blocker is configured to allow rotation of the roller in only one direction of rotation or to be devoid of rotation when the roller 5 is in the third roller 5 position.

[0053] The rotation blocker of the roller may be formed by any suitable means. Depending on the configurations, the rotation blocker may act by blocking the roller 5 and / or it may act by blocking the rotation shaft 6 of the roller 5.

[0054] The belaying device has a first spring 8 which connects the roller 5 and the housing, preferably the first spring 8 connects the roller 5 and the first flange 1. The first spring 8 is formed by one or more elements which deform elastically. The first spring 8 biases the roller 5 so as to place the roller 5 in the first roller position in the absence of external bias. The first spring 8 is configured to oppose the movement of the roller 5 from the first roller position to the second roller position or the third roller position. The first spring 8 transforms a predefined force applied to the roller 5 in the direction of the opening into a predefined position in the housing. The first spring 8 transforms a tension in the rope and therefore a force applied to the roller 5 into a position of the roller inside the housing.

[0055] The first spring 8 and the rotation blocker together form a blocking system which is configured to block the rotation of the roller 5 as a function of the force which is applied to the roller 5 in the direction of the opening. The tension present in the rope inside the belaying device results in the application of a force to the roller 5 by the rope. Depending on the value of the force applied by the rope to the roller, the roller 5 moves which allows the rotation of the roller in both directions of rotation or blocks at least one direction of rotation. The first spring 8 associated with the rotation blocker makes it possible to modify the behavior of the roller 5 as a function of the position of the roller 5 in the housing and therefore as a function of the force applied to the roller 5.

[0056] As the force applied to the roller 5 increases and opposes the force applied by the first spring 8, the roller 5 moves from the first roller position until it reaches the second roller position and then the third roller position. When the roller 5 is subjected to a force less than a first threshold value, the roller 5 is in the first roller position. When the force applied to roller 5 increases and reaches the first threshold value, roller 5 reaches the second roller position. If the force increases further, roller 5 moves until it reaches the third roller position.

[0057] Preferably, the first spring 8 defines a mechanical connection which connects the roller 5 and the first flange 1. The first spring 8 makes it possible to define the first threshold value of the force. The first spring 8 can directly connect the first flange 1 and the roller 5 or preferably its rotation shaft 6. However, it is also possible to provide one or more intermediate elements in the mechanical connection between the roller 5 and the housing or the first flange 1. For example, the first spring 8 is fixed on the one hand to the first flange 1 and on the other hand to an intermediate element itself connected to the roller 5 or the first spring 8 is fixed on the one hand to the roller 5 and on the other hand to an intermediate element fixed to the first flange 1. The first spring 8 can be formed by any suitable means, for example a torsion, compression, extension or flexion spring. The first spring 8 may be a coil spring or a leaf spring.

[0058] When the roller 5 is in the first roller position, which corresponds to a low force and therefore to a low tension applied by the rope, the roller 5 can rotate in both directions of rotation. This configuration makes it possible to easily circulate the rope in both directions. As the tension in the rope increases, the roller 5 moves to move closer to the opening until it reaches the second roller position. When the roller reaches the second roller position, the roller 5 can no longer rotate in both directions. The roller 5 can rotate in only one direction or can no longer rotate. Locking the roller in at least one of the directions of rotation makes it possible to increase the friction between the rope and the roller 5. Increasing the friction between the rope and the roller 5 increases the sensitivity of the roller 5 with respect to the behavior of the rope.Small variations in tension in the rope are better felt by roller 5, which makes it easier for the belay device to block the rope.

[0059] The axis of rotation and more generally the roller 5 move relative to the first flange 1 under the action of a force applied by the rope to the roller 5. The greater the force present in the rope, the greater the force applied to the roller 5, which pulls the roller towards the opening and towards the shoe. The movement of the roller 5 tends to reduce the space available for the passage of a strand of rope.

[0060] Once the second roller position is reached, the roller 5 may be able to rotate in a single direction that corresponds to absorption of the rope from the climber or without rotation. The roller 5 can rotate to allow easy absorption of the rope from the climber which improves safety. On the other hand, the roller cannot rotate in the direction that supplies rope to the climber which allows keep the rope locked and facilitate the locking of the rope or even its self-locking.

[0061] The third roller position is closer to the runner 3 than the second roller position. As the roller 5 moves closer to the runner 3, the space available for the movement of the rope strand connected to the climber is reduced, which increases the friction until the rope is blocked. The reduction in the available space increases the friction between the rope and the roller 5, which makes the roller more sensitive to the tension in the rope.

[0062] To facilitate the movement of the rope in the belay device, it is preferable that the rope comes into contact with a minimum number of elements forming the belay device. For example, the rope only comes into contact with the roller 5 and the two limiters 7 which form the two exit contact points of the rope. Preferably, the belay device is devoid of a locking cam in continuous contact with the rope. Such a locking cam introduces significant friction on the rope which complicates the use of the belay device.

[0063] The force applied to the roller 5 moves the roller 5 in the housing and changes its behavior. The position of the roller 5 in the housing is defined by the force applied to the roller 5. The locking of the roller 5 in a direction of rotation makes it possible to ensure sufficient friction between the roller 5 and the rope so as to obtain the locking of the rope. The belaying device has a rope blocker 10 which is mounted movably in the housing. The rope blocker 10 moves relative to the runner 3 to move toward or away from the runner 3. In one position, the rope blocker 10 is close enough to the runner 3 to block the rope between the runner 3 and the rope blocker 10. The rope blocker 10 is operatively linked to the roller 5 so that the position of the rope blocker 10 follows the position of the roller 5 and vice versa between the second roller position and the third roller position.

[0064] Different configurations of rope blockers 10 are possible. In the embodiment of Figures 1 to 7, the roller 5 forms the rope blocker 10. In the embodiment of Figures 8 to 18, the rope blocker 10 is formed by an additional pad. In the second roller position, the roller 5 reaches a stop which mechanically links the rope blocker 10 and the roller so that the movement of the roller 5 between the second roller position and the third roller position causes a movement of the rope blocker 10. Preferably, when the roller 5 is between the second roller position and the third roller position, the position of the roller and the position of the rope blocker are linked bijectively.

[0065] In the particular case illustrated in Figures 8 to 18, the roller 5 moves until it comes into contact with the rope blocker 10. When the roller 5 comes to a stop on the rope blocker 10, the roller 5 is in the second roller position 5. The movement of the roller 5 from the second roller position to the third roller position causes the rope blocker 10 to move towards the shoe 3 to reduce the distance between the shoe 3 and the rope blocker 10 until the rope is blocked.

[0066] The belaying device comprises a handle 9 which is operatively connected to the roller 5 and to the rope blocker 10. The handle 9 can be connected directly to the rope blocker 10 or to the roller 5. The handle 9 is movable between a first handle position and a second handle position. When the roller 5 is in the third roller position which corresponds to a minimum distance between the rope blocker 10 and the shoe 3, the rotation of the handle 9 causes the rope blocker 10 to move away from the shoe 3.

[0067] The mechanical connection between the handle 9 and the roller 5 means that the force applied to the handle 9 to rotate it in the first direction of handle rotation generates a force on the roller 5 which moves it away from the third roller position towards the second roller position. The force applied to the handle 9 moves the rope blocker 10 to move away from the shoe 3. The rope will be able to slide between the rope blocker 10 and the shoe 3.

[0068] In the examples illustrated in Figures 9 to 18, the handle 9 has a mechanical connection with the first flange 1 and with the rope blocker 10 to move the rope blocker 10 relative to the shoe 3. Depending on the embodiments, the handle 9 can be mounted on the first flange 1, on the rope blocker 10 or on an intermediate element connected to the first flange 1 and to the rope blocker 10 or on another element of the housing. Many configurations are possible.

[0069] It is particularly advantageous that the actuation of the handle 9 does not allow the roller 5 to be moved beyond the second roller position in a direction of movement opposite to the first direction of movement to prevent the roller 5 from reaching the first roller position and allowing the roller 5 to rotate freely.

[0070] As indicated above, the belaying device allows the rotation of the roller 5 in two directions of rotation depending on the position of the roller 5 relative to the first flange 1 or in a single direction, or even has no rotation. The position of the roller 5 relative to the first flange 1 is defined by the force applied to the roller 5. Such a configuration is absent from the prior art. This configuration allows the rope to be blocked independently of the speed of movement of the rope and independently of the direction of movement of the rope.

[0071] Document US2014 / 0262611 does not disclose a relationship between the tension in the rope and the blocking of the roller 5, nor a relationship between the force applied to the roller 5 and therefore to the cam and the blocking of the roller 5. According to document US2014 / 0262611, the rotation or blocking of the cam only occurs when the rope moves too quickly in the configuration which corresponds to a fall. A substantially identical observation can be made. be pulled in relation to the insurer marketed under the name Revo marketed by the company Wild Country. The blocking of the rope is linked to the rotation speed of the roller 5 independently of the tension present on the rope.

[0072] Advantageously, in order to better detect a fall of a climber, the belaying device can be provided with an additional rotation blocker which is configured to block the rotation of the roller when the rotation speed of the roller reaches a threshold value. This additional blocking is only linked to the rotation speed and is independent of the force applied to the roller.

[0073] Different embodiments are possible to achieve such a result. In a particular embodiment illustrated in Figures 1 to 7, the rope blocker 10 is formed by the roller 5. The first roller position is illustrated in [Fig.l]. As indicated above, with low tension in the rope, the roller 5 can rotate in both directions, which facilitates the movement of the rope in both directions. When the roller 5 is subjected to a greater force corresponding to the first threshold value, the roller 5 moves and reaches the second roller position illustrated in [Fig.2]. The roller 5 is only allowed to rotate in one direction of rotation. The roller 5 can rotate to absorb rope from the climber.

[0074] When the roller 5 is subjected to a force even greater than the first threshold value, the roller 5 reaches the third roller position 5 which is even closer to the shoe 3. In the third roller position, the roller 5 and the shoe 3 are able to block a rope which is installed in the belay device.

[0075] In an advantageous embodiment, for example that illustrated in Figures 4 and 5, the roller 5 also has a member for detecting the rotation speed of the roller 5 which preferably forms an additional rotation blocker. The detection member is configured to block the rotation of the roller 5 when the rotation speed of the roller 5 reaches a threshold speed. The additional rotation blocker may have a movably mounted latch 11 and a stud 12 which is projecting. The latch 11 is mounted to move between a position where the latch 11 is folded down and allows the rotation of the roller 5 and a position where the latch 11 is extended, which blocks the rotation of the roller 5. The latch 11 may be associated with a latch spring 11a which urges the latch 11 into the folded down position and which defines the force to be overcome, i.e. the minimum rotation speed, to extend the latch 11. Once the latch 11 is extended, it comes into contact with the stud 12, which blocks the roller 5.The latch 11 can bear on the first rotation shaft 6 in the extended position to block the rotation of the roller 5, the first rotation shaft 6 being fixedly mounted. [Fig.4] illustrates the latch 11 in the folded position while [Fig.5] illustrates the latch 11 in the extended position. The latch 11 is advantageously mounted to move in rotation around a latch shaft 11b, for example formed by a screw. Other embodiments of the additional rotation blocker are possible.

[0076] The use of an additional rotation blocker is advantageous for detecting rapid rope unwinding and reducing the risk of injury.

[0077] Advantageously, in the embodiment illustrated in Figures 1 to 7, the roller 5 rotates around the first rotation shaft 6 and the first spring 8 is configured to apply a force to the first rotation shaft 6 and move the first rotation shaft 6 and the roller 5 towards the first roller position. In the absence of a stress, the first spring 8 applies a force to the first rotation shaft 6 so that the roller 5 is in the first roller position.

[0078] Preferably and as illustrated in [Fig. 6], the first rotation shaft 6 is fixed to a support 13 which is mounted movably relative to the first flange 1. The first spring 8 is configured to apply a force to the support 13 to move the roller 5 towards the first roller position. In the particular example illustrated, the support 13 is mounted movably in rotation but another movement is possible. In the illustrated configuration, the support 13 is mounted movably in rotation around a support rotation shaft 14 fixed to the first flange 1. The first spring 8 is fixed on the one hand to the first flange 1 and on the other hand to the support 13 and it applies a force to the support 13 to place the roller 5 in the first roller position.

[0079] Advantageously, the support 13 is separated from the roller 5 by the first flange 1. The first rotation shaft 6 is fixed to the support 13 and it passes through a slot 1e of the first flange 1. Preferably, the slot 1e is configured so that the first rotation shaft 6 comes to bear on one end of the slot 1e when the roller 5 is in the first roller position and the first rotation shaft 6 comes to bear on the opposite end of the slot 1e when the roller 5 is in the third roller position. It is also preferable that the slot 1e is always completely covered by the roller 5.

[0080] The support rotation shaft 14 can also form the axis of rotation of the second flange 4 relative to the first flange 1. The support rotation shaft 14 can also be used for fixing a cover 15 on the second face 1b of the first flange 1 to protect the support 13.

[0081] The support rotation shaft 14 can also serve as a rotation shaft for an additional roller forming the delimiter 7 opposite the shoe 3. The support rotation shaft 14 can cooperate with a nut 14a to fix the support rotation shaft 14 on the first flange 1.

[0082] It is also advantageous for the roller 5 to be mounted on a bearing 16, for example a ball bearing or a bearing to facilitate the rotation of the roller 5 around the first rotation shaft 6. In the embodiment illustrated in [Fig. 6], the handle 9 is mounted to rotate around a third rotation shaft 17 fixed to the first flange 1. The handle 9 is fixed to the first flange 1 by means of a nut 18. The handle 9 slides along a ramp of the support 13 to move the support 13 and therefore the roller 5. The actuation of the handle 9 acts on the distance between the roller 5 and the pad 3 without acting on the blocking of the roller 5 in at least one of its two directions of rotation.

[0083] In an advantageous embodiment illustrated in Figures 1 to 7, the roller 5 is provided with a toothed wheel 19 and a hook 20 is mounted on the first flange 1. The toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in the second roller position. The toothed wheel 19 is at a distance from the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in the first roller position. In the illustrated embodiment, the contact between the hook 20 and the toothed wheel 19 allows the rotation of the roller 5 in only one direction of rotation. The lack of contact between the toothed wheel 19 and the hook 20 allows the rotation of the roller 5 in both directions of rotation. By modifying the shape of the teeth of the toothed wheel 19 and by modifying the shape of the hook 20, it is possible to block the rotation of the roller 5 in both directions.The use of a toothed wheel 19 associated with a hook 20 is particularly advantageous because its construction is simple and its operation is robust.

[0084] To form the rotation blocker, many other configurations are possible which allow rotation of the roller 5 in both directions of rotation, or to block at least one direction of rotation depending on the position of the roller 5. It is possible to have a roller 5 mounted to rotate around the first rotation shaft 6 only in the first direction of rotation and to have a first rotation shaft 6 mounted to rotate in the second direction or in both directions of rotation. The movement of the roller 5 corresponds to a movement of the first rotation shaft 6. When the roller 5 reaches the second position of roller 5, the first rotation shaft 6 is blocked which only allows rotation of the roller 5 in the first direction of rotation. For example, if the first rotation shaft 6 is mounted on the support 13 as illustrated in [Fig.5], it is possible to use a first rotation shaft 6 with a non-circular section and a light 1e which prevents the rotation of the first rotation shaft 6 when the second roller position is reached. The light 1e can be replaced by a hook which grips the first rotation shaft 6. .

[0085] When the roller 5 is provided with a toothed wheel 19, it is particularly advantageous to have a hook 20 mounted on the first flange 1 and preferably a hook 20 mounted movably to follow the movement of the roller 5 beyond the second roller position. The toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in the second roller position and until it reaches the third roller position. The toothed wheel 19 is at a distance from the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in the first roller position. A stop 21 prevents the hook 20 from remaining in contact with the toothed wheel 19. beyond the second roller position. The contact between the hook 20 and the toothed wheel 19 allows the rotation of the roller 5 only in one direction of rotation. In the example illustrated, the hook 20 forms a through hole and the stop 21 passes through the through hole to define the amplitude of the movements of the hook 20. Other stop configurations are possible. Preferably, the hook 20 is mounted to rotate.

[0086] Preferably, the hook 20 is mounted to move relative to the first flange 1 between a first hook position and a second hook position. When the hook 20 is in the first hook position and the roller 5 is in the second roller 5 position, the toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20. When the hook 20 is in the second hook position and the roller 5 is in a third roller position, the toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20. The movement of the roller 5 between the second roller position and the third roller position results in a movement of the hook 20 which remains in contact with the toothed wheel 19 to prevent rotation of the roller 5 in at least one of the two directions of rotation. Preferably, the actuation of the handle 9 does not modify the contact between the hook 20 and the toothed wheel 19.

[0087] It is advantageous to provide a spring 22, called a hook spring, which applies a force to the hook 20. The hook spring 22 places the hook 20 in the first hook position in the absence of external stress. In the embodiment illustrated in Figures 1 to 7 and more particularly illustrated in [Fig.6], it can be noted that the housing is formed by a first flange 1 on which a frame 23 is mounted. The frame 23 separates the first flange 1 and the second flange 4 and it partially delimits the housing. The latch 11 is rotatably mounted around a latch rotation shaft 11b fixed to the roller 5.

[0088] The embodiment illustrated in [Fig.l] to 7 has a simple movement of the roller 5 which is mounted with simple rotation around the shaft 14. The embodiment of figures 8 to 15 has an identical or substantially identical operation with a complex movement of the roller 5 which moves relative to the support 13 and with the support 13 which moves relative to the first flange 1.

[0089] Figures 8 to 15 illustrate a roller 5 which locks against the rope blocker 10 but the use of a hook or an equivalent means is possible to block the rotation of the roller 5.

[0090] [Fig. 15] illustrates an embodiment in which the roller 5 is rotatably mounted around a first rotation shaft 6. The first rotation shaft 6 is rotatably mounted around a second rotation shaft which is here formed by the rotation shaft of the support 14. The first rotation shaft 6 is movably mounted between the first roller position and the second roller position.

[0091] The support 13 which has the rope blocker 10 is rotatably mounted around the rotation shaft of the support 14. The first rotation shaft 6 is connected to the support 13 by means of a spring 8. The spring 8 is connected on the one hand to the support 13 and on the other hand to the first rotation shaft 6. The spring 8 is configured to apply a force urging the first rotation shaft 6 and therefore the roller 5 towards the first roller 5 position.

[0092] As illustrated in Figures 10 and 11, the force applied to the roller 5 in the direction of the opening, as can be achieved by a loop of rope which is stretched, results in a movement of the roller 5 in the housing as well as a movement of the roller 5 relative to the support 13. The roller 5 moves until it comes into abutment against the rope blocker 10. When the force on the roller 5 increases, the support 13 pivots which has the effect of bringing the rope blocker 10 closer in the direction of the shoe 3 to block the rope. Preferably, the spring 8 has a lower stiffness than the spring 26 so that the roller 5 moves more than the support 13 when the roller 5 is subjected to a force in the direction of the opening. Depending on the desired movements of the support 13 and the roller 5, the stiffness values ​​and the arrangements of the springs 8 and 26 can be adjusted.It is also possible to provide that the rotation shaft of the roller 5 is different from the rotation shaft of the support 13.

[0093] In the embodiment illustrated in [Fig. 15], the support 13 has a pin 28 mounted projecting and inserted into the first rotation shaft 6. The spring 8 bears against the pin 28. The spring 8 applies a force which is intended to press the first rotation shaft 6 against a stop 29 of the support 13 to define the first roller position. This embodiment is simple to implement and effective for defining the threshold tension which achieves the locking of the roller and the rotation of the support 13 to adjust the friction on the rope by means of the rope blocker.

[0094] In another embodiment, the movement of the roller 5 between the first roller position and the second roller position is obtained by means of a first rotation shaft 6 with variable size or a rotation shaft mounted so as to be movable relative to the support 13. An exemplary embodiment of a rotation shaft with variable size is illustrated in FIGS. 16 to 18. The first rotation shaft 6 has a main portion 6a and a secondary portion 6b. The secondary portion 6b is mounted so as to be movable relative to the main portion 6a between a first position and a second position. In the first position illustrated in [Fig. 17], the secondary portion 6b extends a first distance projecting from the main portion 6a. The first rotation shaft 6 has a first size value which corresponds substantially to a first apparent diameter. In the second position illustrated in [Fig.18], the secondary portion 6b extends a second distance projecting from the main portion 6a. The second distance is less than the first. distance so that the first rotation shaft 6 has a second size value which corresponds substantially to a second apparent diameter. The second size and the second apparent diameter are less than the first size and the first apparent diameter. [Fig. 18] illustrates a configuration where the secondary portion 6b no longer projects from the main portion, the size is minimal.

[0095] The spring 8 biases the secondary portion 6b toward the first roller position so that the space requirement of the first rotation shaft 6 is maximized. As the force applied to the roller 5 increases, the spring 8 deforms and reduces the space requirement of the first rotation shaft 6. With the reduction in the space requirement of the first rotation shaft 6, the roller 5 moves until it reaches the second roller position. In the second roller position, the roller 5, which could rotate in both directions of rotation, becomes only capable of rotating in one direction of rotation.

[0096] To obtain the locking of the roller 5 as a function of its position in the housing, it is possible to provide that a part of the first rotation shaft 6 has at least one shaft tooth 24 which cooperates with a roller tooth. The roller 5 has one or more roller teeth 25. In the first position of roller 5, the at least one shaft tooth 24 is not in contact with the roller teeth 25 because the secondary portion 6b presses on the roller 5 to prevent contact between the teeth 24 and 25. In the second position of roller 5, the secondary portion 6b is retracted and the at least one roller tooth 25 comes into contact with the shaft tooth 24. The orientation of the teeth, for example in a triangle, makes it possible to define the authorized direction of rotation and the prohibited direction of rotation when the roller is intended to rotate in only one direction in the second roller position.

[0097] As indicated above, it is possible to provide a roller 5 mounted to rotate around the first rotation shaft 6 in a single direction of rotation. The first rotation shaft 6 is mounted to be movable in rotation so as to allow the rotation of the roller 5 in both directions. When the roller 5 reaches the second roller position, the secondary portion 6b blocks the rotation around the first rotation shaft 6 and the roller 5 can only rotate in one direction. The at least one elastic element 8 mounted in the first rotation shaft defines the first force threshold value.

[0098] The first rotation shaft 6 can be mounted on a support 13 identical or substantially identical to that of [Fig.6], the support 13 is connected to the first flange 1 by a second spring 26. The second spring 26 is chosen with a stiffness greater than that of the first spring 8 so that the roller 5 only allows rotation in one direction of rotation before locking the rope against the first locking zone 3. The mounting of the handle 9 can be identical to that indicated previously.

[0099] Preferably, the movement of the roller 5 relative to the deformable rotation shaft is stopped by means of a roller stop. When the roller stop comes into contact with the roller 5, this generates friction which makes it possible to release the constraints on the configuration of the teeth to have rotation in one direction only. In the particular embodiment illustrated in Figures 8 to 18, the rope blocker 10 forms the roller stop. In the embodiment illustrated in Figures 8 to 18, the rope blocker 10 is different from the roller 5.

[0100] As with the previous embodiments, the roller 5 is mounted to move between a first roller position where rotation in both directions is permitted and a second roller position where rotation is blocked in at least one direction of rotation. In the second roller position and in the third roller position, the roller 5 cannot rotate in the direction that supplies rope to the climber. Friction with the rope is increased compared to a rotating roller, which facilitates the transmission of the force from the rope to the roller 5 and therefore to the rope blocker 10 to block the rope against the shoe 3.

[0101] The roller 5 and the rope blocker 10 are mounted on the support 13. The support 13 is mounted movably in the housing, preferably movable relative to the first flange 1. Preferably, the rope blocker 10 is fixedly mounted on the support 13. Preferably, the support 13 is mounted to rotate around a support shaft 14 fixed to the first flange 1. The roller 5 is eccentric relative to the support shaft 14 so that the force applied to the roller 5 causes the rotation of the support 13 and causes the movement of the rope blocker 10 towards the shoe 3. The second flange 4 can be mounted to rotate on a flange rotation shaft 27.

[0102] Advantageously, a support spring 26 is connected on the one hand to the first flange 1 and on the other hand to the support 13. The support spring 26 is arranged to move the rope blocker 10 away from the shoe 3. In other words, the support spring 26 opposes the approach between the rope blocker 10 and the shoe 3. The stiffness of the support spring 26 is greater than the stiffness of the first spring 8 so that the rope blocker 10 allows sliding of the rope between the rope blocker 10 and the shoe 3 before the roller 5 leaves the second roller position. In other words, when sufficient force is applied to the roller 5, the roller 5 prevents rotation in one of the rotation directions before the blocker 4 blocks the rope against the first blocking zone 3.

[0103] In the embodiment illustrated in Figures 9 to 18, the first rotation shaft 6 of the roller 5 is mounted eccentrically relative to the support shaft 14 which fixes the first rotation shaft 6 with the support 13. It is advantageous to use a first rotation shaft 6 with variable size like that shown in Figures 16 to 18. As indicated above, the more the force applied to the roller 5 increases, the more the roller 5 moves from the first roller position to the second roller position. In the second roller position, rotation in at least one of the rotation directions is prohibited, which causes significant friction between the rope and the roller 5. Since the roller 5 cannot rotate, the force applied to the roller 5 causes the roller 5 to move, and therefore the support 13 and the rope blocker 10. The movement of the rope blocker 10 results in it moving towards the shoe 3 and blocking the rope if necessary.

[0104] In the embodiment illustrated in [Fig.9], the support 13 is mounted to move relative to the first flange 1 and the support 13 is mounted on the first flange 1. The roller 5 is mounted on the support 13. The roller 5 is fixed to the first flange 1 by means of the support 13. The blocker 10 is fixedly mounted on the support 13. The movement of the blocker 10 follows the movement of the support 13 and vice versa.

[0105] As indicated above, the handle 9 has a mechanical connection with the first flange 1 and the roller 5, for example via the support 13 and / or the first rotation shaft 6. The force applied to the handle 9 during its rotation applies a force between the roller 5 and the housing which separates the rope blocker 10 from the shoe 3. In the particular embodiment illustrated, the handle 9 is mounted on the support 13 and preferably, the handle 9 is mounted to rotate about a handle rotation shaft 17 which advantageously cooperates with a screw 17a to fix the handle rotation shaft 17 on the support 13. Alternatively, the handle 9 can be mounted on the first flange 1 or on another element. The handle 9 can be biased towards the first handle position by means of a handle spring 30.

[0106] [Fig. 10] illustrates a roller 5 in the first roller position and a rope blocker 10 in the first blocker position. The rope can travel in both directions and the roller 5 facilitates this movement by rotating in both directions to follow the rope. The rope is not under tension. When the tension in the rope increases, the force on the roller 5 increases until it reaches the first threshold value. The roller 5 moves to reach the second roller position which blocks at least one direction of rotation as illustrated in [Fig. 11]. Preferably, the roller 5 comes to bear on the roller stop. When the force on the roller 5 increases, the support 13 moves the rope blocker 10 towards the shoe 3 which ensures the locking of the rope. Actuation of the handle 9 makes it possible to move the support 13 to move it away from the shoe 3 and obtain sliding of the rope.

[0107] In the illustrated embodiments, the roller 5 is mounted to rotate about a first axis of rotation which is perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the first face 1a of the first flange 1. In operation, the rope moves inside the rope circulation path. The rope circulation path is arranged so that the rope comes to bear on two delimiters 7 fixed to the first flange 1 or to the second flange 4. The delimiters 7 are separated by the roller 5 along the path of the rope. When the rope is under tension, it presses on the delimiters 7 and on the roller 5 which applies a force on the roller 5 driving it towards the second roller position.

[0108] In the illustrated embodiments, the handle 9 is intended to be operated by the left hand. The strand of rope that is to exit through the right-hand hole is intended to be attached to the climber and corresponds to the upstream strand. The strand of rope that is to exit through the left-hand hole is intended to supply or absorb the excess rope. An inverted architecture of the belay device for operation of the handle 9 by the right hand is possible.

[0109] In the illustrated embodiment, the attachment point 2 is located under the roller 5. However, it is also possible to have an attachment point 2 which passes through the roller 5 which is perforated accordingly. However, this embodiment is less advantageous because it requires a larger connector to attach the belay device to the attachment point. It is advantageous to have an attachment point in the second flange 4 so that the connector closes the belay device.

[0110] It is particularly advantageous to maintain the ability of the roller 5 to rotate in the first direction of rotation even when the rope is blocked because this facilitates the recovery of the rope to help the climber without degrading safety. By way of comparison, in belay devices detecting the rotation speed of the roller 5 to block the roller 5, once the roller 5 is blocked and the rope is under tension, the user does not know whether his next action on the belay device will result in the roller 5 being released and therefore possibly a new fall of the climber in the event of incorrect handling even though the rope is taut.

[0111] The method of using the belay device is as follows. A rope loop is installed in the belay device, the rope loop going around the roller 5. The tension in the rope being less than a first threshold value, the roller 5 is in a first roller position. The movement of the rope in one direction and then in the opposite direction causes the roller 5 to rotate in one direction of rotation and then in the other direction of rotation. The tension in the rope increases, inside the belay device and applies a force to the roller 5 in the direction of the opening of the box. The roller 5 moves until it reaches the second roller position. The movement of the rope towards the climber does not cause the roller 5 to rotate around its axis of rotation. The increase in the tension in the rope results in a movement of the roller 5 into the third roller position and in a blocking of the rope.

[0112] The rotation of the handle 9 makes it possible to move the rope blocker 10 relative to the shoe 3, the roller 5 being at least blocked in one direction of rotation. The movement of the rope blocker 10 in relation to the shoe 3 makes it possible to modulate the separation distance and therefore the friction which exists between the rope, the rope blocker 10, the shoe 3 and the roller 5 to modulate the running speed of the rope.

Claims

Claims

1. Belay device comprising: - a housing intended to receive a rope loop, the housing defining at least one opening for the passage of strands of the rope loop and an attachment point (2) intended to attach the belaying device to an anchor point, the housing being partly formed by a first flange (1); - a skate (3) delimiting the at least one opening; - a roller (5) arranged in the housing and mounted to rotate in two directions of rotation around a first rotation shaft (6) which passes through the roller (5) in its center, the roller (5) being mounted to move relative to the first puddle (1), the roller (5) being mounted to move away from or towards said at least one opening and move the axis of rotation of the roller (5); - a rotation blocker (19, 20, 24, 25) configured to allow rotation of the roller (5) in both directions of rotation when the roller (5) is in a first roller position corresponding to a first distance from the opening, the rotation blocker (19, 20, 24, 25) being configured to block at least one of the two directions of rotation of the roller (5) when the roller (5) is less than the first distance from the opening corresponding to a second roller position and a third roller position; - a first spring (8) having a first end connected to the housing and a second end connected to the roller (5) to bias the roller (5) towards the first roller position, the first spring defining a mechanical connection connecting the roller (5) and the first flange (1), the position of the roller (5) in the housing being defined by the force applied by the rope on the roller (5); - a handle (9) mounted to move between a first handle position and a second handle position; wherein, the handle (9) is operatively connected to the housing and the roller (5) such that a force applied to the handle (9) to move the handle (9) generates a force on the roller (5) to move the roller from the third roller position to the second roller position.

2. A belaying device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the roller (5) is provided with a toothed wheel (19) and a hook (20) is mounted on the housing, the toothed wheel (19) being in contact of the hook (20) when the roller (5) is in the second roller position and the toothed wheel (19) being at a distance from the hook (20) when the roller (5) is in the first roller position, the hook (20) and the toothed wheel (19) forming the rotation blocker (19, 20).

3. A belaying device according to the preceding claim, in which the hook (20) is mounted to move relative to the housing between a first hook position and a second hook position, in which when the hook (20) is in a first hook position and the roller (5) is in the second roller position, the toothed wheel (19) is in contact with the hook (20) and in which when the hook (20) is in a second hook position and the roller (5) is in a third roller position, the toothed wheel (19) is in contact with the hook (20).

4. A belaying device according to the preceding claim comprising a hook spring (22) applying a force to the hook (20), the hook spring (22) placing the hook (20) in the first hook position (20) in the absence of external stress.

5. A belay device according to claim 1 wherein the roller (5) is rotatably mounted about a first rotation shaft (6) and the first rotation shaft (6) is rotatably mounted about a second rotation axis (14), wherein the first spring (8) applies a force to the first rotation shaft (6) toward the first roller position and the first rotation shaft (6) is mounted on a support (13) and wherein the support (13) is rotatably mounted on a support rotation shaft (14) and a support spring (26) applies a force to the support (13) to move the shoe (3) away from a rope stopper (10) attached to the support (13).

6. A belaying device according to the preceding claim wherein the first rotation shaft (6) and the support (13) are rotatably mounted around the support rotation shaft (14).

7. A belaying device according to claim 1 wherein the roller (5) rotates around a first rotation shaft (6) and wherein the first spring (8) is configured to adjust the size of the rotation shaft (6) perpendicular to the rotation axis of the roller (5) by means of the first spring (8), the first spring (8) being configured to apply a force to the first rotation shaft (6) and move the rotation axis and the roller (5) towards the first roller position.

8. A belaying device according to any one of the preceding claims. preceding claims comprising an additional rotation blocker configured to block the rotation of the roller (5) when the additional rotation blocker detects that the rotation speed of the roller (5) reaches a threshold value.

9. A method of using a belay device comprising the following steps: - providing a belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, - installing a rope loop in the belay device, the rope loop bypassing the roller (5), - the tension in the rope being less than a first threshold value, running the rope in one direction and then in the opposite direction to cause the roller (5) to rotate in one direction of rotation and then in the other direction of rotation; - increasing the tension in the rope until the roller (5) reaches the second roller position, the roller (5) blocking at least one direction of rotation, - further increasing the tension in the rope until the rope is blocked.