APPLICATOR FOR COSMETIC FORMULATION
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021008761
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-08-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-14
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-08-19
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: APPLICATOR FOR COSMETIC FORMULATION technical field
[0001] Embodiments of this disclosure relate to the application of cosmetic compositions to keratin fibers. In some embodiments, an applicator having particular material properties is used to apply cosmetic compositions having specific chemical properties. SUMMARY
[0002] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form, which are further described below in the detailed description. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.
[0003] According to one aspect of this disclosure, a cosmetic kit is provided. In one embodiment, the kit includes a composition comprising a wax emulsion, at least one polymer, and fibers, and having a viscosity in the range of 10,000 cPo to 20,000 cPo. The kit also includes an applicator comprising a plurality of bristles, at least one of the bristles being formed from a thermoplastic elastomer having a hardness in the range of 32 Shore D to 38 Shore D.
[0004] In any embodiment, the applicator is configured to apply the composition to at least one keratin fiber.
[0005] In any embodiment, at least one keratin fiber is a cilium.
[0006] In all embodiments, the wax emulsion comprises a water emulsion in wax.
[0007] In all embodiments, the polymer has a weight average molecular mass of less than 100,000.
[0008] In any embodiment, the polymer has a weight average molecular mass of less than 50,000.
[0009] In accordance with one aspect of this disclosure, a method for applying a cosmetic compound is provided. In one embodiment, the method comprises depositing the cosmetic compound onto an applicator, the composition including a wax emulsion and a polymer, the applicator including a plurality of bristles, at least one of the bristles being formed from a thermoplastic elastomer having a hardness in the range of 32 Shore D to 38 Shore D; and brushing the applicator against a keratin fiber to transfer the cosmetic compound from the applicator to the keratin fiber.
[0010] In any embodiment, the cosmetic compound is mascara, and the keratin fiber is an eyelash.
[0011] In any embodiment, the composition has a viscosity in the range of 10,000 cPo to 20,000 cPo.
[0012] In all embodiments, the polymer has a weight average molecular mass of less than 100,000.
[0013] In all embodiments, the polymer has a weight average molecular mass of less than 50,000. DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0014] The foregoing aspects and many associated advantages of this invention will be more readily appreciated as they become better understood with reference to the detailed description that follows, when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:
[0015] [Fig-1] Fig. 1 shows a cross-sectional view of an embodiment re presentation of a cosmetic product kit according to this disclosure;
[0016] [Fig.2] Fig.2 shows an isometric view of a representative embodiment of an applicator included in the kit shown in [Fig. 1]; and
[0017] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows an end view of the applicator illustrated in [Fig.2]. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0018] This disclosure relates to applicators for applying a cosmetic product, and in particular applicators for applying known cosmetic product formulations to keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, for example, mascara. Applicators of this type generally take the form of a brush having an elongated central core with a plurality of bristles extending radially from it. Embodiments of the disclosed and claimed object may be described herein with reference to mascara and brushes for applying it; however, it will be appreciated if the disclosure is not limited to mascara and brushes. In this regard, the term "mascara" more generally includes cosmetic formulations of the type described herein, to be applied to keratin fibers.Furthermore, as used in this document, the term "brush" is not limited to a particular applicator configuration and may include various configurations having a plurality of bristles extending from a core.
[0019] It is desirable that mascara brushes be configured to hold a sufficient amount of product, i.e., cosmetic formulation, so that it is not necessary to reload the brush too often during application. Furthermore, these applicators must be able to grip the eyelashes, separate the eyelashes, and lengthen the eyelashes. and / or to curl the eyelashes, depending on the desired makeup look. Known applicators, such as mascara brushes or combs, have fixed characteristics regarding the flexibility and spatial arrangement of their bristles or teeth. For example, known applicators typically have a hardness in the range of 45 Shore A to 55 Shore A.
[0020] The performance of a mascara usually depends less on the brush itself or the formula itself, but rather on the specific brush / material / scraper / formula combinations used. Certain combinations of specific dimensions, material hardness, formula viscosity, etc., will allow for superior performance compared to competitors with similar brushes and / or formulations, but lacking one or more of the key attributes. This disclosure describes combinations that were not previously used in the industry.
[0021] Figure 1 shows a packaging assembly 100 for a cosmetic composition 60 according to aspects of this disclosure. The assembly 100 includes a container 50 with an inner cavity in which the cosmetic composition 60 is stored. An opening is formed in the container and is covered by a scraper 54 with an orifice 56 extending through it.
[0022] An applicator 40 includes a handle 30 that engages with threads 58 formed on the container 50 to detachably couple the applicator to the container. An elongated rod 52 extends from the handle 30 and includes a brush 10 positioned on the end of the rod opposite the handle. When the handle 30 of the applicator 40 is coupled to the container 50, the rod 20 extends through the orifice 56 of the scraper 54, and the handle covers the orifice to ensure a seal inside the container. At the same time, the brush 10, which will be described in more detail, is positioned inside the container 50 and in contact with the cosmetic composition 60 located inside.
[0023] Suitable embodiments of a cosmetic composition according to this disclosure may include a wax and a polymer. According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a wax and a polymer with a specific amide motif, intended particularly for cosmetic use. In one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a composition for coating eyelashes (in particular mascara), an eyeliner, an eyebrow product, a lip product, a blush or eyeshadow, a foundation, a body makeup product, an anti-seed product, a nail polish, a skin care product, including for the scalp, or a hair product (hair mascara, spray).The composition can also be applied to makeup accessories (supports) such as false eyelashes, hairpieces, wigs, false nails, or even to sticks or stamps. adhering to the skin or hair (fly type).
[0024] In the composition, the use of a polymer with a specific amide motif in combination with a wax-in-water emulsion improves the composition's adhesion properties to keratinous materials, particularly keratinous fibers such as eyelashes. The composition applies easily to keratinous materials and allows for the rapid deposition of a sufficient quantity to achieve makeup with the desired cosmetic properties. In particular, a thick layer of makeup is quickly obtained on keratinous materials, thus preventing users from having to apply the composition for too long. Therefore, for a mascara, the result is makeup that quickly thickens the keratinous fibers, especially eyelashes; there is thus an instant coating of the eyelashes. Furthermore, the mascara provides good lengthening of the coated eyelashes.
[0025] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a wax-in-water emulsion and at least one first polymer of average molecular weight by weight less than 100,000, comprising a polymer backbone, having non-pending amide motifs and at least one hanging fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide motifs.
[0026] In certain embodiments, the composition may include a combination of at least one first polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than 100,000 and preferably less than 50,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having repeated hydrocarbon motifs provided with at least one non-pending amide motif, and at least one hanging fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide motifs, and at least one wax, in a physiologically acceptable composition in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, for obtaining an adherent deposit on keratinous materials and / or for rapid makeup of keratinous materials and / or for rapid thickening and / or lengthening of eyelashes.
[0027] As used in this document, a "physiologically acceptable medium" is a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the skin, integument or lips of human beings, such as a cosmetic medium.
[0028] As used in this document, a "functionalized chain" is an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups selected in particular from amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester, siloxane, or polysiloxane groups. In one embodiment, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains are at least partially substituted by fluorine atoms. In one embodiment, these chains are linked directly to the polymer backbone or via an ester function or a perfluorinated group.
[0029] As used in this document, a "polymer" is a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, and preferably at least 3 repeating motifs.
[0030] As used in this document, a "hydrocarbon repeating motif" is a motif comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, bearing hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, which, in one embodiment, are linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These motifs further each comprise one or more non-pending amide motifs found in the polymer backbone.
[0031] In one embodiment, the dangling chains are directly linked to at least one of the amide motifs of the polymer skeleton.
[0032] In one embodiment, the first polymer comprises, between the hydrocarbon motifs, silicone motifs or oxyalkylene motifs.
[0033] Furthermore, in certain embodiments, the first polymer of the composition may comprise from 40% to 98% fatty acid chains relative to the total number of amide groups and fatty acid chains, and even more so from 50% to 95%. The proportion of amide groups may depend on the nature of the fatty acid phase and is particularly similar to the polar nature of the fatty acid phase. Thus, the higher the proportion of amide groups in the first polymer, which corresponds to the presence of several amide groups, the greater the affinity of the first polymer for polar oils.
[0034] In one embodiment, the first polymer of the composition has an average molecular mass by weight less than 100,000 (in particular from 1,000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000 (in particular from 1,000 to 50,000), and more particularly from 1,000 to 30,000, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000, and better from 2,000 to 10,000.
[0035] The first polymer, and in particular the polyamide, is not soluble in water, especially at 25°C. In particular, the first polymer does not contain an ionic group.
[0036] As first preferred polymers used in an embodiment, we can cite polyamides branched by dangling fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the polyamide skeleton by at least one linking group, in particular an ester.
[0037] Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polyamide backbone. Other linking groups may include ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiourea, and thiourethane groups.
[0038] These polymers are in particular those described in U.S. patent no. 5,783,657, “ESTER-TERMINATED POLYAMIDES OF POLYAMERIZED FATTY ACIDS USEFUL IN FORMULATING TRANSPAREENT GELS IN LOW POLARITY LIQUIDS” (“patent 5,783,657”).
[0039] Each of these polymers corresponds in particular to the following formula (I):
[0040] R4 R4 R'—O—j—C—R2—C—N—R3—N—]„—C—R2—C—O—R1 (I) OO OO
[0041] in which n denotes an integer number of amide motifs such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R1 is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 independently represents at each occurrence a hydrocarbon group in C4 to C42 provided that 50% of the R2 groups represent a hydrocarbon group in C30 to C42; R3 independently represents at each occurrence an organic group having at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms;and R4 independently represents, at each occurrence, a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in C1 to C10 or a direct bond to R3 or to another R4 such that the nitrogen atom to which R3 and R4 are both bonded is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4-N-R3, at least 50% of R4 representing a hydrogen atom.
[0042] In the case of formula (I), in one embodiment, the optionally functionalized terminal fatty chains are terminal chains linked to the last nitrogen of the polyamide skeleton.
[0043] The ester groups of formula (I), which are part of the terminal and / or dangling fatty chains as defined in the invention, can represent from 15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups, and even more preferably from 20% to 35%. Furthermore, in certain embodiments, n can advantageously represent an integer from 1 to 5, and even more preferably greater than 2. Preferably, R1 is a C12 to C22 group, and more preferably, a C16 to C22 group. In one embodiment, the R2s are advantageously hydrocarbon (alkylene) groups from C10 to C42. Preferably, at least 50%, and even more preferably at least 75%, of the Rs are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R2s are hydrogenated groups from C4 to C19, and even from C4 to C12. Preferably, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group from C2 to C36 or a polyoxyalkylated group, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group from C2 to C12.
[0044] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon groups are linear, cyclic, or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Furthermore, in one embodiment, the Alkyl and alkylene groups are linear or branched groups, saturated or unsaturated.
[0045] In general, polymers of formula (I) are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthesis product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) where n is 0, i.e. a diester.
[0046] The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acidic endings by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also called cetylstearyl alcohol).
[0047] As a first polymer used in an embodiment, one may also mention polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than two carbonyl groups and two amine groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unit motifs being condensed by an amide bond. In some embodiments, these polyamide resins have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000.
[0048] Examples of embodiments of polyamides are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,500,209, "DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING POLYAMIDE GELLING AGENT".
[0049] It is also possible to use polyamide resins obtained from plants such as those described in patent 5,783,657 and US patent 5,998,570, "ESTER-TERMINATED POLYAMIDES OF POLYAMERIZED FATTY ACIDS USEFUL IN FORMULATING TRANSPAREENT GELS IN LOW POLARITY LIQUIDS".
[0050] The first polymer present in the composition according to the disclosure advantageously has a softening temperature above 65°C and possibly up to 190°C. Preferably, the first polymer has a softening temperature ranging from 70°C to 130°C and even better from 80°C to 105°C.
[0051] The first polymer is in particular a non-waxy polymer.
[0052] The first polymer may correspond to formula (I) mentioned above. This The first polymer exhibits good solubility in oils due to the fatty chain(s), and therefore leads to macroscopically homogeneous compositions even with a high rate (at least 25%) of polymer, unlike polymers without fatty chains.
[0053] In one embodiment, the first polymer is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.
[0054] The fatty phase of the composition may comprise a wax. As used in this document, "wax" means a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point above 30°C and better still above 55°C and possibly up to 200°C, in particular up to 120°C.
[0055] In one embodiment, the waxes present in the composition are dispersed in the form of particles in an aqueous medium. These particles may have an average size ranging from 50 nm to 10 µm, and preferably from 50 nm to 3.5 µm.
[0056] In particular, in one embodiment, the wax is present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, the waxes being able to be in the form of medium-sized particles ranging from 1 µm to 10 µm, and preferably from 1 µm to 3.5 µm.
[0057] In another embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the wax is present in the form of a wax microdispersion, the wax being in the form of particles whose average size is less than 1 sqm, and in particular ranges from 50 nm to 500 nm.
[0058] In one embodiment, the wax is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better from 1% to 20% by weight.
[0059] In one embodiment, the first polymer and the wax are advantageously present in the composition with a wax / first polymer weight ratio of 5 to 60, preferably of 7 to 50, and even better of 10 to 40.
[0060] The aqueous phase constitutes the continuous phase of the composition. The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water. The aqueous phase may also consist of a mixture of water and a water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3 to C4 ketones, and C2 to C4 aldehydes. In one embodiment, the water-miscible solvent is present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight. In particular, the content of water-miscible organic solvent represents from 0.1% to 30% of the weight of water present in the composition.
[0061] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) is present, at a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, and even better from 10% to 60% by weight.
[0062] The composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 5% to 15%. In one embodiment, these surfactants are selected from anionic or non-ionic surfactants.
[0063] Surfactants preferably used in the composition according to this disclosure are selected: from non-ionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetostearyl alcohols, fatty acid and sucrose esters, alkylglucose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated Ci to C6 alkylglucose fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; and from anionic surfactants: Ci6 to C30 fatty acids neutralized by amines, ammonia or alkali salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] In one embodiment, surfactants are used to enable the obtaining of an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.
[0065] The composition may include at least one additional second film-forming polymer, different from the first polymer described above.
[0066] In one embodiment, the second film-forming polymer is present in the composition according to the invention at a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and better from 1% to 30% by weight.
[0067] As used in this document, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratinous materials.
[0068] The composition may include a film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, i.e. a polymer whose film has a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.
[0069] Film-forming polymers used in an embodiment include synthetic polymers, radical polymers, polycondensate polymers, natural polymers, and mixtures thereof. As used in this document, "radical film-forming polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, particularly ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerization (unlike polycondensates).
[0070] Radical-type film-forming polymers may include vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
[0071] Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
[0072] As a monomer bearing an acid group, unsaturated alpha,s-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or itaconic acid may be used. Preferably, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably (meth)acrylic acid.
[0073] Acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from among the esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, especially alkyl in C1 to C2O, preferably in C1 to C2O, aryl (meth)acrylates, especially aryl in C6 to C1O, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, especially hydroxyalkyl in C2 to C6.
[0074] Examples of alkyl (meth)acrylates include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
[0075] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0076] Examples of aryl (meth)acrylates include benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0077] Particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are (meth)acrylates alkyl.
[0078] In one embodiment, the alkyl group of the esters is either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say, some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0079] Examples of amides of acid monomers include (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, especially alkyl C2-Ci2. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, examples include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecyla-crylamide.
[0080] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In one embodiment, these monomers are polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
[0081] Examples of vinyl esters that can be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and t-butyl vinyl benzoate.
[0082] Examples of styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methylstyrene. Any monomer known to a person skilled in the art that falls within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain) may be used.
[0083] Among the film-forming polycondensates, we can mention polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.
[0084] In one embodiment, the polyurethanes are selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.
[0085] In one embodiment, the polyesters are obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
[0086] In one embodiment, the dicarboxylic acids are aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethyllutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalene. In one embodiment, these dicarboxylic acid monomers are used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers.Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are preferred.
[0087] In one embodiment, the diol is chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol is chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol.
[0088] In one embodiment, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylol propane are used as other polyols.
[0089] In one embodiment, polyester amides are obtained in a manner similar to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
[0090] Ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta-phenylenediamine, or para-phenylenediamine can be used as the diamine. In one embodiment, monoethanolamine is used as the amino alcohol.
[0091] In one embodiment, the polyester also comprises at least one monomer bearing at least one SO3M group, M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as, for example, Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+. In particular, a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such an -SO3M group may be used.
[0092] In one embodiment, the aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a -SO3M group as described above is chosen, for example, from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, and methylenediphenyl rings. As an example of an aromatic monomer bifunctional also bearing a -SO3M group, we can cite: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7 dicarboxylic acid.
[0093] It is preferable to use isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate based copolymers, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.
[0094] In one embodiment, the naturally sourced polymers, optionally modified, are selected from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the second film-forming polymer is present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known as latex or pseudolatex.
[0096] The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0097] Acrylic dispersions can be used as aqueous film-forming polymer dispersions. Polymer dispersions resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers within and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides, and / or alkyds can also be used as aqueous film-forming polymer dispersions. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.
[0098] In a second embodiment of the composition, the film-forming polymer is any suitable water-soluble polymer.
[0099] The size of the polymer particles dispersed in the aqueous phase can range from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.
[0100] In some embodiments, the composition may include an auxiliary film-forming agent that promotes film formation with the film-forming polymer. In one embodiment, such a film-forming agent is selected from among all compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and is in particular selected from plasticizers and coa-lescent agents.
[0101] In some embodiments, the composition may also include a coloring agent or any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, these additives are present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0% to 20% (in particular from 0.01% to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and even better from 0.01% to 10% (where applicable).
[0102] In some embodiments, the composition is a cosmetic composition as disclosed in the publication of U.S. patent application no. 2015 / 0174056 “COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATIN FIBERS”, filed by Barba et al. and currently attributed to L’Oréal SA.
[0103] In certain embodiments, the composition is a cosmetic composition as disclosed in the publication of U.S. patent application no. 2002 / 0168335 "COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A WAX AND A POLYMER", filed by Nathalie Collin and currently attributed to L'Oréal SA.
[0104] In some embodiments, the composition is a cosmetic composition as described in U.S. patent no. 7,410,636 "COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYMER AND FIBRES," issued to Nathalie Collin and currently attributed to L'Oréal SA.
[0105] The use of a polymer with a specific amide motif in a composition comprising a wax-in-water emulsion improves the adhesion properties of the composition to keratinous materials, particularly to keratin fibers such as eyelashes. The composition applies easily to keratinous materials and allows for the rapid deposition of a sufficient quantity to obtain makeup with the desired cosmetic properties. In particular, a thick layer of makeup is quickly obtained on keratinous materials, thus preventing users from having to apply the composition for an extended period.
[0106] The wax content in the emulsion provides a smoothness and texture well-suited to mascara. In some embodiments, a preferred ratio yields a viscosity range of 10,000 cPo to 20,000 cPo. This range has been shown to provide superior deposition and buildability characteristics.
[0107] Figures 2 and 3 show a representative embodiment of the brush 10 shown in [Fig. 1], which has proven particularly suitable for applying the cosmetic composition described. The brush 10 includes an elongated core 12 with a plurality of bristles 14 extending radially from it. The bristles 14 (indicated as 14a and 14b in [Fig. 3]) are spaced around the circumference of the core 12 to form a plurality of longitudinal rows. In the illustrated embodiment, the rows of bristles 14b are regularly spaced from adjacent rows of bristles. One or more pairs of adjacent rows of bristles 14a are spaced further apart than the other rows of bristles 14b, such that the adjacent rows of bristles 14a form a reservoir 16 between the rows. Reservoir 16 extends longitudinally and provides an area that receives the cosmetic composition when the brush 10 is immersed in the compositions. In some embodiments, the brush 10 includes a single reservoir 16. In some embodiments, the brush 10 includes two or more reservoirs 16.
[0108] Referring again to [Fig. 1], the orifice 56 of the scraper 54 is sized relative to the brush 10 to control the amount of the cosmetic composition 60 "loaded" onto the brush when the brush is removed from the container 50. In this respect, excessive amounts of the cosmetic composition 60 are removed from the brush 10 when the brush passes through the orifice 56 so that the outside diameter of the cosmetic composition is approximately the diameter of the orifice. In some embodiments, the scraper 54 is made of polyethylene, polypropylene, acrylonitrile-butadiene rubber (nitrile rubber), thermoplastic elastomers, or any suitable material or combination of materials.In some embodiments, the scraper 54 flexes slightly when the brush 10 passes through the orifice 56 so that the resulting diameter of the cosmetic composition 60 is slightly larger than the diameter of the orifice.
[0109] The brush 10 and the scraper 54 are configured to provide a layer of cosmetic composition 60 having a nominal thickness within a desired range. The nominal thickness is generally defined as half the difference between the diameter of the orifice 56 and the diameter of the core 12 of the brush 10. In some embodiments, the core 12 of the brush 10 has a diameter of 2 mm, and the orifice 56 has a diameter of 4.5 mm, so that the nominal thickness of the cosmetic composition 60 is approximately 1.25 mm. In some embodiments, a deflection of the scraper 54 results in a slightly greater nominal thickness, for example, in the range of 1.2 mm to 1.5 mm or 1.4 mm to 1.5 mm. In some embodiments, the orifice 56 has a diameter in the range of 4.0 mm to 5.0 mm.
[0110] When the brush is "loaded" with the cosmetic composition, i.e., when the reservoirs 16 are at least partially filled with the composition, the user moves the brush 10 along the eyelashes. The bristles 14 pass through the eyelashes, i.e., they separate and extend through the eyelashes while depositing the cosmetic composition onto them. When the brush 10 is moved towards the tip of the eyelash, i.e., away from the eyelid, the cosmetic composition coats, thickens, and lengthens (extends) the eyelashes.
[0111] The bristles 14 are formed from a thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) having a hardness between 32 Shore D and 38 Shore D. In some embodiments, the core 12 and at least some of the bristles 14 are formed as a single piece. In some embodiments, the number, location, and shape(s) of the bristles 14 vary. In some embodiments, the bristles 14 are formed from a first material, and the core 12 is formed from a separate material, in which the The second material has a Shore D hardness greater than that of the first material.
[0112] In some embodiments, the flexibility of the hairs 14 or rows of hairs varies. In some embodiments, the hairs 14 or rows of hairs are formed from different materials. In some embodiments, some of the hairs 14 or rows of hairs are formed by bi-injection of different materials to increase or decrease the rigidity of the hairs.
[0113] In some embodiments, the bristles are configured to have different shapes in order to provide different flexibilities. In some embodiments, at least a portion of the cross-section of each bristle is in the shape of a circle, a semicircle, an oval, a square, a rectangle, a polygon, or any other suitable shape. The shape of the bristle influences its flexibility. For example, a semicircle is more rigid (less flexible) than a circle; an oval has different stiffness along its major and minor axes; a rectangle has a more rigid base, and so on.
[0114] In some embodiments, the rigidity of the rows follows a specific pattern. For example, in some embodiments, one row out of every four is more rigid than the remaining rows. These variations, as well as others in the flexibility of the fibers, are envisaged and should be considered within the scope of this disclosure.
[0115] In some embodiments, the core 12 and the bristles 14 are formed separately and then assembled by mechanical fasteners, tight fits, adhesives, or other suitable means. In some embodiments, the core 12 and the bristles 14 are manufactured by overmolding, insert molding, or any other suitable manufacturing process.
[0116] In some embodiments, the bristles 14 comprise thermoplastic elastomers (TPEs), including styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene (SEBS), HYTREL, other suitable TPEs, and / or a mixture thereof.
[0117] In addition to having a hardness in the range of 32 Shore D to 38 Shore D, the bristle material is preferably configured to provide the bristles 14 with a recovery rate in the range of 90% to 100%. With regard to nylon and other thermoplastic materials, "recovery" is an indication of the material's "memory." In a brush filament, recovery is the tendency of a flexed filament to return to its original unfolding. The recovery rate for nylon is generally greater than 90%, meaning that the filament returns to approximately 90% of its original unfolding after being flexed.
[0118] For cosmetic compositions known to date, brushes with bristles having a hardness between 45 Shore D and 55 Shore D were used, as it was not possible to use softer brushes, for example, brushes with a hardness between 32 Shore D and 38 Shore D. In this respect, brushes with bristles Softer bristles were ineffective because the bristles were too flexible to work with typical formulations thick enough to require a stronger swiping motion. More specifically, softer bristles bend too much to effectively deposit the cosmetic composition onto the lash.
[0119] However, it was discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising a wax emulsion and a polymer according to the described embodiments yielded superior and unexpected application results when using a brush with a hardness range of 32 Shore D to 38 Shore D. Contrary to popular belief, it was discovered that a soft bristle material allowed for improved application of the disclosed cosmetic compositions because the formulation is sufficiently creamy to create just the right amount of flex in the brush core relative to the pressure exerted on the eyelashes, the bristles being more flexible than those of traditional brushes. As a result, the bristles adapt to the different angles that the eyelashes create during application, making the brush more adaptive so that the cosmetic composition is deposited evenly on the eyelashes.
[0120] Although illustrative embodiments have been shown and described, it will be appreciated that various modifications can be made to them without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic kit, comprising: a composition including a wax emulsion and at least one polymer, said emulsion having a viscosity in a range of 10,000 cPo to 20,000 cPo; and an applicator configured to apply the composition to eyelashes, the applicator including a plurality of bristles formed from a thermoplastic elastomer having a hardness in a range of 32 shore D to 38 shore D.
2. The cosmetic kit of claim 1, wherein the wax emulsion comprises a water-in-wax emulsion.
3. The cosmetic kit of claim 1, wherein the polymer has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000.
4. The cosmetic kit of claim 3, wherein the polymer has a weight average molecular weight of less than 50,000.
5. A method of implementing a cosmetic kit according to claim 1 or claim 2, the method comprising the following steps: depositing the composition of the kit onto the applicator of said kit; and brushing the applicator against eyelashes to transfer the cosmetic compound from the applicator to said eyelashes.
6. A method according to claim 5, wherein the composition is mascara.
7. The method of claim 5, wherein the polymer has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000.
8. The method of claim 7, wherein the polymer has a weight average molecular weight of less than 50,000.