COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A SELF-FOAMING GEL

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL WITH SELF-FOAMING PROPERTIES The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising an association of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant; at least one fatty substance; at least one neutralizing agent; at least one gelling agent and at least one liquefied gas.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN GEL FORM WITH SELF-FOAMING PROPERTIES FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising an association of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant; at least one fatty substance; at least one neutralizing agent; at least one gelling agent and at least one liquefied gas. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] In recent years, consumers have become more aware of the environmental impact of the products they use, and the naturalness of cosmetic products has become a priority for them. Therefore, identifying natural molecules with functions similar to synthetic molecules has become a major issue within the cosmetics industry.

[0003] Indeed, while consumers are increasingly seeking natural ingredients in their cosmetic products, they make no compromises on product performance and sensory appeal. Thus, one of the current challenges for the cosmetics industry is to develop natural products that are just as effective as synthetic products.

[0004] According to a recent study by Kline, the men's cosmetics market has undergone a significant transformation in recent years, becoming one of the most dynamic segments of the beauty industry. With growth exceeding 6%, the shaving products category is the second fastest growing after skincare. Among these shaving products, shaving gels are attracting increasing consumer interest.

[0005] A shaving gel is an oil-in-water microemulsion. The oil phase contains a self-foaming agent, which is a liquefied and solubilized gas. A shaving gel is dispensed as a gel, called a pad, which does not foam until it is spread on the skin, where it transforms into a foam. The transformation of the gel into a foam is linked to the evaporation of the liquefied gases solubilized in the formula.

[0006] Nevertheless, the composition of shaving products remains controversial. Indeed, these products contain molecules criticized by consumers, such as triethanolamine, ethoxylated compounds, or mineral oils.

[0007] In particular, exposure to triethanolamine or its vapors may cause irritation of the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. Repeated or prolonged exposure to this product may have a delipidating effect on the skin and cause redness, chapped and peeling. In addition, triethanolamine is a highly controversial base as it is considered to be a source of nitrosamines, carcinogenic compounds classified by the WHO (World Health Organization).

[0008] In order to avoid irritating effects, alternatives to conventional shaving gels have been developed. For example, applications WO96 / 0932 and FR2931666 are known for soap-free shaving gels containing N-acylsarcosines that produce a thick, rigid, self-foaming gel. However, to improve their solubility, the N-acylsarcosines are combined with a mineral or organic base, preferably triethanolamine.

[0009] However, one disadvantage of soap-free shaving gels is the difficulty in obtaining a foam as consistent and dense as a conventional shaving foam.

[0010] For example, application WO2016120552 is known for a self-foaming shaving gel composition without triethanolamine. In particular, a mixture of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide is used as a neutralizing agent for fatty acids, especially oleic acid, allowing a dense and stable foam to be obtained. However, the shaving gel composition according to application WO2016120552 does not allow for the formation of a gel pellet with properties satisfactory for comfortable use by the user.

[0011] Thus, there is a need for a shaving gel formulation that meets the growing consumer demand for naturalness and is free of triethanolamine, possessing organosensory properties and stability similar to, or even superior to, those of shaving gels composed of a fatty acid neutralized by triethanolamine.

[0012] The present invention therefore aims to provide such a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming and non-irritating properties for the skin, particularly a shaving gel.

[0013] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a gel sufficiently fluid to be packaged and sufficiently thick to ensure pleasant application, this optimal rheology being obtained by the association of a sugar derivative and a glycerol ester, allowing optimal solubilization of the liquefied gas in the formula and the restoration of a stable foam after evaporation of the liquefied gas.

[0014] Another advantage is that the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not include triethanolamine as an essential component of the composition and has a naturalness of more than 90% according to the ISO16128 standard, this thanks to the elimination of controversial molecules such as ethoxylated compounds, silica, BHT, paraffin oil or sulfated surfactants.

[0015] SUMMARY

[0016] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising: - an association of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant chosen from among the glycerol esters; - at least one fat chosen from among the saturated fatty acids of 10 to 24 carbon atoms; - at least one neutralizing agent chosen from an organic base of the amine family, with the exception of triethanolamine; - at least one gelling agent; and - at least one liquefied gas chosen from propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane or a mixture of these.

[0017] According to one embodiment, said association of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] According to one embodiment, said association of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant comprises from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said association, of at least one sugar derivative.

[0019] According to one embodiment, said at least one fatty body is present in an amount between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] According to one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from sugar amines, amino acids and amino acid derivatives.

[0021] According to one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is a sugar amine selected from N,N-dimethylglucamine, methylglucamine or hydroxyethylglucamine.

[0022] According to one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is present in an amount between 3% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and in a ratio of neutralizing agent relative to fat of between 0.3 and 3.

[0023] According to one embodiment, said at least one liquefied gas is a mixture of isopentane and isobutane and is present in an amount between 0.5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises formulation water, at least one humectant, at least one emollient, at least one colouring agent and at least one ingredient selected from cosmetic actives such as perfumes, preservatives, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelators, pH adjusting agents or a mixture thereof.

[0025] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity greater than 10000 mPa.s.

[0026] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a pH between 8.0 and 10.0.

[0027] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shaving gel.

[0028] DEFINITIONS

[0029] In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:

[0030] The term "sugar amine" refers to monosaccharides in which an alcohol function is substituted by an amine. In one embodiment, the sugar amine is a hexosamine. In a preferred embodiment, the sugar amine is a hexosamine derived from glucose, particularly derived from sorbitol in which the hydroxyl group at position 1 is replaced by an alkylamine group.

[0031] The term "amino acid" refers to an alpha-amino carboxylic acid, that is to say a molecule comprising a carboxylic acid functional group and an amine functional group in the alpha position of the carboxylic acid group, for example a proteinogenic amino acid or a non-proteinogenic amino acid such as 2-aminoisobutyric acid.

[0032] The term “proteinogenic amino acid” refers to an amino acid that is incorporated into proteins during the translation of messenger RNA by ribosomes in living organisms, namely Alanine (ALA), Arginine (ARG), Asparagine (ASN), Aspartate (ASP), Cysteine ​​(CYS), Glutamate (glutamic acid) (GLU), Glutamine (GLN), Glycine (GLY), Histidine (HIS), Isoleucine (ILE), Leucine (LEU), Lysine (LYS), Methionine (MET), Phenylalanine (PHE), Proline (PRO), Pyrrolysine (PYL), Selenocysteine ​​(SEL), Serine (SER), Threonine (THR), Tryptophan (TRP), Tyrosine (TYR) or Valine (VAL).

[0033] The term "gelling agent" refers to ingredients capable of modifying the rheology and / or increasing the viscosity of a liquid composition. They therefore have a significant impact on the sensory descriptors of texture, particularly those related to the sensations experienced when taking or spreading the product. "Gelding agents" are of terrestrial (carob), marine (alginate), animal (gelatin), biofermentative (xanthan gum), mineral (silica, salts), or synthetic (carbomer) origin, and each imparts specific sensory characteristics that can be combined in the composition. While not exhaustive, thickening agents can also include any combination of raw materials that increases the viscosity of the aqueous system, such as combinations of surfactants.Non-limiting examples of these surfactant combinations include the combination of isethionate, alkyl betaine, alkyl polyglucoside, and alkanolamide surfactants.

[0034] The term "neutralizing agent" refers, for the purposes of this invention, to an organic base that enables the total or partial neutralization of the fat, leading to the formation of soap. For the purposes of this invention, the neutralizing agent is selected from an organic base belonging to the amine family, with the exception of triethanolamine.

[0035] The term "include" and its variations should be understood according to the present invention as not excluding the presence of other steps and / or components. In certain embodiments, the term "include" may be interpreted as "essentially consisting of".

[0036] The term "fatty substance" refers to a compound which, combined with the neutralizing agent, forms in situ a mild anionic emulsifier (soap) essential for forming the gel structure. For the purposes of this invention, the fatty substance is selected from among saturated fatty acids with 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0037] The term "gel" refers to a homogeneous, isotropic, rigid, vibrating, and elastic medium. A gel is a three-dimensional network of solids dissolved in a fluid that exhibits no flow when in a stable state. By mass, gels are primarily composed of liquid, but their behavior is similar to that of solids due to their three-dimensional network entangled within the liquid. These entanglements give gels their structure and contribute to their adhesion. A "self-foaming gel" refers to a composition with a gel texture that transforms into a foam when spread on the skin.

[0038] The term "liquefied gas" refers to compounds that promote the self-foaming effect, as they allow the gel pellet to transform into a foam by volatilizing during application. The most commonly used gases are generally saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons with between 4 and 6 carbon atoms. The gases used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are hydrocarbons with boiling points below 30°C, such as isobutane or isopentane.

[0039] The term "natural ingredient" refers to ingredients of plant, animal, and mineral origin, as well as microorganisms. These ingredients have not undergone any transformation intended to chemically modify them. The term "Naturally Derived Ingredient" refers to ingredients derived from natural ingredients through chemical and / or biological processes. An ingredient is considered a natural derivative when it contains more than 50% of an ingredient of natural origin. The NF ISO 16128 standard, guidelines for technical definitions and criteria applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products, describes the methods for calculating the Natural, Natural Origin, Organic, and Organic Origin Indices. From these indices, percentages of naturalness and organic character are calculated in a finished product.

[0040] The term "surfactant" refers to substances that reduce the surface tension of a liquid or the interfacial tension between two phases and that facilitate or aid the formation of dispersions or emulsions. This means, in particular, that the term "surfactants" in the context of the present invention also includes substances that are usually referred to as emulsifiers. For the purposes of the invention, the surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or nonionic surfactants.

[0041] The term "Viscosity" refers to all the phenomena of resistance to the movement of a fluid in a flow with or without turbulence. According to the invention, viscosity is measured at ambient temperature (20°C) and ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 3 spindle, at a speed of 100 rpm. For the purposes of the invention, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is greater than 1000 mPa·s, preferably greater than 5000 mPa·s, and more preferably greater than 10000 mPa·s. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0042] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising an association of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant; at least one fatty substance; at least one neutralizing agent; at least one gelling agent and at least one liquefied gas.

[0043] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not include triethanolamine as an essential component of the composition and has a naturalness of more than 90% according to ISO 16128.

[0044] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant, said combination comprising from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said combination, of at least one sugar derivative. In a preferred embodiment, said combination comprises from 1% to 5% of at least one sugar derivative.

[0045] According to one embodiment, the combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, from 1% to 5%.

[0046] Advantageously, said at least one sugar derivative and said at least one surfactant act synergistically to form stable microemulsions of liquefied gases in the formula, trapping them and preventing their evaporation. Thus, in addition to slowing down delayed-effect foaming, such a combination makes it possible to obtain a voluminous, dense, and stable foam during product use.

[0047] In one embodiment, said at least one sugar derivative is selected from gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, acacia gum, locust bean gum, tara gum, gellan gum, tragacanth gum, or a mixture thereof; alginates; carrageenans; gelatin; pectins; agar-agar; starch; celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose or a mixture thereof.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, said at least one sugar derivative is selected from celluloses. In a more preferred embodiment, said at least one sugar derivative is selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, or a mixture thereof.

[0049] In a more preferred embodiment, said association comprises only one sugar derivative selected from celluloses. In a further preferred embodiment, the sugar derivative is hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

[0050] In one embodiment, said at least one sugar derivative is present in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.01% and 1%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.01% and 0.5%. In a still more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.01% and 0.1%.

[0051] In one embodiment, said at least one surfactant is selected from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or nonionic surfactants. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one surfactant is selected from nonionic surfactants.

[0052] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be used according to the invention include:

[0053] - alkoxylated derivatives of fatty alcohols, alkylphenols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and fatty acid amides. In one embodiment, the alkoxy groups are chosen from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and mixtures thereof, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated;

[0054] - alkyl polyglucosides, which are the condensation products of long-chain alcohols chain, for example C8-C30 fatty alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n—O—R in which S is a sugar fragment, n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group. Non-limiting examples of long-chain alcohols include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, or oleyl alcohol;

[0055] - alkanolamides resulting from the acylation of an amino alcohol by a fatty acid. Non-limiting examples of amino alcohols include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, isopropanolamine, or diethylene glycolamine (2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol). Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and fatty acids derived from vegetable oils such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, wheat germ oil, peanut oil, corn oil, and olive oil;

[0056] - esters of sugars and mono- or polyacids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of mono- or polyacids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms include oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acid, or mixtures thereof such as mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate;

[0057] - glycerol esters such as glycerol oleate, glycerol monostearate, the glycerol monoistearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol monobehenate and mixtures thereof; polyglycerol esters such as polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2 sesquioleate, triglycerol diisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof;

[0058] - sorbitan mono-, di-, tri-, and esters such as sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan stearates, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan Trèsstearate, sorbitan dipalmitates and sorbitan isostearate;

[0059] - alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters and of alkylpolyglycosides, in which the alkoxy groups are chosen from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives being preferred.

[0060] The term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen that possess several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and have at least 4 carbon atoms. Sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0061] Suitable sugars may be cited, by way of non-limiting examples, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is selected from glycerol esters such as mono-, di-, and triglycerides of fatty acids. In a more preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is a fatty acid monoglyceride of 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0063] In a more preferred embodiment, said association comprises only one surfactant selected from glycerol esters. In a further preferred embodiment, the surfactant is glycerol oleate.

[0064] In one embodiment, said at least one surfactant is present in an amount of between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.1% and 10%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.1% and 5%. In a still more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.5% and 5%.

[0065] According to one embodiment, said at least one fatty substance used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is selected from saturated fatty acids of 10 to 24 carbon atoms such as capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, or a mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one fatty substance is selected from saturated fatty acids of 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0066] In a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises only one fatty substance selected from saturated fatty acids of 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 10 to 18 carbon atoms. In a further preferred embodiment, the fatty substance is palmitic acid.

[0067] In one embodiment, said at least one fat is present in an amount of between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 5% and 15%.

[0068] According to the invention, said at least one fatty body is totally or partially neutralized by at least one neutralizing agent chosen from an organic base of the amine family.

[0069] According to the invention, the organic base of the amine family is not triethanolamine.

[0070] In a preferred embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from sugar amines, amino acids or amino acid derivatives.

[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises only one neutralizing agent. In one embodiment, the neutralizing agent is an amino acid or an amino acid derivative selected from arginine, histidine, cysteine, serine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, acetyl glutamine, lysine, lauroyl lysine, N-capryloyl lysine, polyepsilon lysine, glycine, or capryloyl glycine. In a more preferred embodiment, the neutralizing agent is a sugar amine derived from sorbitol in which the hydroxyl group at position 1 is replaced by an alkylamine group. In a further preferred embodiment, the sugar amine is selected from N,N-dimethylglucamine, N-methylglucamine, or hydroxyethylglucamine. In yet another preferred embodiment, the neutralizing agent is N,N-dimethylglucamine.

[0072] In one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is present in an amount of between 3% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 5% and 20%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 5% and 15%.

[0073] According to one embodiment, a ratio of neutralizing agent to fat of between 0.3 and 3.0 is used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, a ratio of between 0.5 and 2. In a more preferred embodiment, a ratio of between 0.8 and 1.5. In a still more preferred embodiment, a ratio of between 0.8 and 1.0.

[0074] Advantageously, when a neutralizing agent to fat ratio of between 0.3 and 3.0 is used, a translucent and stable gel nugget is obtained upon release, changing from a gel form to a voluminous, dense and stable foam during product use.

[0075] According to one embodiment, said at least one gelling agent used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, in order to obtain the desired viscosity, is chosen from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents; semi-synthetic or chemically transformed natural gelling agents; salts; or a mixture of these.

[0076] Non-limiting examples of synthetic gelling agents that can be used according to the invention include anionic gelling agents such as carbomers, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers and a CrC 30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, modified sulfonated acrylic acid copolymers, associative acrylic polymers or copolymers or a mixture thereof; cationic gelling agents such as acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylate copolymer or polyquaternium-37; polyethylene glycols such as glycerol fatty acid polyesters or ethoxylated polyglycerols or ethoxylated monosaccharide fatty acid polyesters.

[0077] Non-limiting examples of natural gelling agents that may be used according to the invention include gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tara gum, gum gellan, tragacanth gum, tragacanth gum, alginates, carrageenans, gelatin; pectins; agar-agar or a mixture thereof.

[0078] Non-limiting examples of chemically transformed semi-synthetic or natural gelling agents that can be used according to the invention include starch and its derivatives; celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, cellulose powder, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose or a mixture thereof.

[0079] Non-limiting examples of salts that may be used according to the invention include halides of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or other metals such as aluminum and zinc; sulfates and phosphates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or other metals such as aluminum and zinc; salts of monethanolamine (MEA) and diethanolamine (DEA); alkali metal silicates or a mixture thereof. Examples include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate, ammonium chloride, or MEA chloride.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, said at least one gelling agent is selected from celluloses. In a more preferred embodiment, said at least one gelling agent is selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, or a mixture thereof.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises only one gelling agent. In a further preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0082] In one embodiment, said at least one gelling agent is present in an amount of between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.1% and 1%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.1% and 0.5%.

[0083] According to one embodiment, said at least one liquefied gas used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is selected from propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, or a mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one liquefied gas is a mixture of isopentane and isobutane.

[0084] In one embodiment, the mixture of isopentane and isobutane is used in a ratio of isopentane to isobutane quantity between 15 / 85 and 85 / 15. In a preferred embodiment, between 40 / 60 and 85 / 15. In a more preferred embodiment, of 75 / 25.

[0085] Advantageously, said at least one liquefied gas used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention allows the expansion of the gel and promotes the formation of foam by evaporation during the use of the product.

[0086] In one embodiment, said at least one liquefied gas is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 0.5% and 10%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 1% and 10%. In a still more preferred embodiment, in an amount of between 1% and 5%.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional compound known to those skilled in the art to improve the organosensory qualities and properties of the cosmetic composition.

[0088] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises formulation water, at least one humectant, at least one emollient, at least one colouring agent selected from water-soluble or fat-soluble organic colourings, natural colourings of vegetable or mineral origin, pigments, mother-of-pearl or a mixture thereof; and at least one ingredient selected from cosmetic actives such as cationic polymers, perfumes, preservatives, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelators, pH adjusting agents or a mixture thereof.

[0089] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the quantity of the cosmetic ingredient(s) so as not to alter the organosensory qualities and properties of the concentrated composition according to the present invention.

[0090] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0091] - from 1% to 10% of a combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant, said association comprising from 1 to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the association, of at least one sugar derivative;

[0092] - from 5% to 20% of at least one fatty substance;

[0093] - from 3% to 25% of at least one neutralizing agent;

[0094] - from 0.1% to 5% of at least one gelling agent;

[0095] - from 0.5% to 15% of at least one liquefied gas;

[0096] - from 1 to 10% of at least one humectant;

[0097] - from 1 to 10% of at least one emollient;

[0098] - from 0.001 to 0.5% of at least one colorant;

[0099] - from 0.1 to 5% of at least one fragrance;

[0100] - from 0.1 to 5% of at least one preservative;

[0101] - from 0.05 to 1% of at least one antioxidant;

[0102] - formulation water in sufficient quantity to reach 100%.

[0103] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0104] - 1% to 5% of a combination of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and oleate of glycerol, said association comprising 1 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the association, of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose;

[0105] - 5% to 15% palmitic acid;

[0106] - 5% to 15% of N,N-dimethylglucamine;

[0107] - from 0.1% to 0.5% hydroxyethylcellulose;

[0108] - from 1% to 5% of an isopentane / isobutane mixture in a quantity ratio of isopentane on isobutane of 75 / 25;

[0109] - 1 to 10% polyglycerin 10;

[0110] - 1 to 10% isopropyl myristate;

[0111] - from 0.001 to 0.5% of hydrolyzed extract of Gardenia Florida and Maltodextrin;

[0112] - from 0.1 to 5% of a perfume;

[0113] - from 0.1 to 5% of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol;

[0114] - from 0.05 to 1% tocopherol;

[0115] - formulation water in sufficient quantity to reach 100%.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity greater than 1000 mPa·s. In a preferred embodiment, greater than 5000 mPa·s. In a more preferred embodiment, greater than 10000 mPa·s. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity between 10000 mPa·s and 50000 mPa·s. In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity between 20000 mPa·s and 40000 mPa·s.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a pH between 8.0 and 10.0.

[0118] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a self-foaming gel, i.e., having a gel texture that transforms into foam upon contact with the skin, such as shower gels, foaming facial cleansing gels, shaving gels, and shampoos. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a shaving gel.

[0119] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention allows for the formation of a translucent gel pellet with good consistency and delayed foaming when spread on the skin. A voluminous, dense, and stable foam is produced. is obtained during the use of the product, providing a protective layer as comfortable as a classic self-foaming gel.

[0120] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is packaged in any device enabling the delivery of a foaming gel such as a pressurized container, for example an aerosol or a "bag on valve" type container, i.e. containing a pouch inside which is the cosmetic composition according to the invention, said pouch being surrounded inside said container by a propellant gas, said propellant gas being a compressed gas such as nitrogen, which does not come into contact with the cosmetic composition.

[0121] The invention also relates to a method for preparing the cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the following steps:

[0122] a) mixing and homogenization in formulation water of the gelling agent and the sugar derivative;

[0123] b) adding to the mixture obtained in step a) a mixture of the fat and the surfactant, at a temperature between 70 and 90°C and homogenizing the mixture obtained;

[0124] c) addition to the mixture obtained in step b) of the neutralizing agent and homogenization of the mixture until neutralization;

[0125] d) addition to the mixture obtained in step d) of the liquefied gas.

[0126] In a preferred embodiment, the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following steps:

[0127] a) mixing and homogenizing in formulation water, the gelling agent and the sugar derivative with at least one of the following ingredients: preservative and humectant;

[0128] b) adding to the mixture obtained in step a) a mixture of the fat, the surfactant and at least one emollient, at a temperature between 70 and 90°C and homogenizing the mixture obtained;

[0129] c) addition to the mixture obtained in step b) of the neutralizing agent and homogenization of the mixture until neutralization;

[0130] d) adding to the mixture obtained in step c) at least one colorant, one perfume and one moisturizing agent, until complete homogenization;

[0131] e) cooling the mixture obtained in step d) to a temperature below 35°C;

[0132] e) resting of the mixture obtained in step d);

[0133] f) addition to the mixture obtained in step d) of the liquefied gas.

[0134] A person skilled in the art will know how to use known manufacturing methods for cosmetic compositions in gel form to produce the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0135] According to one embodiment, step a) is carried out at a temperature between 70 and 90°C, until complete solubilization.

[0136] According to one embodiment, the mixture of the fat, the surfactant and at least one emollient is heated to a temperature between 70 and 90°C before being added to the mixture obtained in step a).

[0137] According to one embodiment, step c) is carried out at a temperature between 70 and 90°C, until complete neutralization.

[0138] According to one embodiment, the colorant is added to the mixture obtained in step c) at a temperature between 70 and 90°C.

[0139] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition obtained by the process according to the invention allows for the formation of a translucent gel pellet with good adhesion and delayed foaming when spread on the skin. A voluminous, dense, and stable foam is also obtained during use of the product, providing a protective layer as comfortable as a conventional self-foaming gel.

[0140] The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention in various methods of removing unwanted hair and down, whether mechanically or electrically, such as shaving. EXAMPLES

[0141] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting way.

[0142] Example 1: Preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0143] Materials and methods

[0144] In a 10 kg capacity mixer, the gelling agent and sugar derivative were mixed at a temperature of 50-90°C in formulation water with a preservative and a humectant, and the mixture was homogenized. The temperature was maintained at 80-85°C, and a mixture of the fat, surfactant, and emollient at a temperature of 80-85°C was added to the previously obtained mixture of the gelling agent and sugar derivative. The mixture was then homogenized.

[0145] The neutralizing agent was then added to the previously obtained mixture and neutralization was carried out for 1h at a temperature of 50-90°C. The dye and other ingredients were then added hot to the neutralized mixture and the resulting mixture was then cooled to a temperature below 35°C.

[0146] The resulting mixture was then left to stand for at least 24 hours and the liquefied gas was added to obtain a translucent gel which was packaged in a Bag On Valve type aerosol.

[0147] Example 2: Cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0148] The cosmetic composition according to Example 2 is prepared according to Example 1 above using the ingredients described in Table 1 below. Table 1 presents an example of shaving gel according to the invention.

[0149] [Tables 1] INCI % w / w PF aqua qsp palmitic acid 10.05 Dimethylglucamine 8.57 polyglycerin 10 2.88 hydroxyethylcellulose 0.29 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.05 glyceryl oleate 0.96 isopropyl myristate 2.40 simmondsia chinensis seed oil 0.09 tocopherol glycineavoine oil 0.09 1,2-hexanediol & caprylyl glycol 0.48 perfume 0.67 coloring 0.007 moisturizing active 0.09 isopentane & isobutane 3.75

[0150] The shaving gel according to example 2 has a percentage of naturalness according to standard isol6128 of 90.15% and a viscosity, measured at ambient temperature (20°C) and at ambient pressure, with a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a Mobile type 3, at a speed of 100 revolutions / minute, between 20000 mPa.s and 40000 mPa.s.

[0151] The shaving gel according to Example 2 provides good gas absorption in less than one minute and yields a translucent gel pellet with good consistency, i.e., sufficiently fluid for packaging and thick enough to ensure a pleasant application. A delayed-effect foaming effect is obtained when spread on the skin, with the formation of a voluminous, dense, and stable foam, providing a comfortable protective layer for the user.

[0152] Also, the stability of the shaving gel according to Example 2 was studied at different temperatures. No changes in the physicochemical parameters (pH, viscosity) were observed during the test period, showing good stability of the shaving gel over time.

[0153] Example 3: Comparative Examples 1. Advantage of combining a sugar derivative and a surfactant#

[0154] Examples 3A and 3B demonstrate the advantage of using a combination of a sugar derivative and a surfactant for optimal gassing and thus the formation of a translucent gel pellet with good consistency and the production of a voluminous, dense, and stable foam when spread on the skin

[0155] Table 2 below presents examples of cosmetic compositions not comprising hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (example 3A) or not comprising glycerol oleate (example 3B).

[0156] [Tables2] INCI % w / w PF (example 2) % w / w PF 3A % w / w PF 3B aqua qsp qsp qsp palmitic acid 10.05 10.05 10.05 Dimethylglucamine 8.57 8.57 8.57 polyglycerin 10 2.88 2.88 2.88 hydroxyethylcellulose 0.29 0.29 0.29 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.05 0.00 0.05 glyceryl oleate 0.96 0.96 0.00 isopropyl myristate 2.40 2.40 2.40 simmondsia chinensis seed oil 0.09 0.09 0.09 tocopherol glycine soya oil 0.09 0.09 0.09 1,2-hexanediol & Caprylyl glycol 0.48 0.48 0.48 Fragrance 0.67 0.67 0.67 Colorant 0.007 0.007 0.007 Moisturizing agent 0.09 0.09 0.09 Isopentane & Isobutane 3.75 3.75 3.75

[0157] In Example 3A, corresponding to the removal of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, a slow gassing time of more than 20 minutes was observed. A translucent gel pellet was formed. However, a fine foam was obtained when spread on the skin, which was not satisfactory for user comfort.

[0158] In example 3B, corresponding to the removal of glyceryl oleate, no gas uptake was observed even after several hours. The formation of a translucent gel pellet and a voluminous, dense, and stable foam was therefore impossible. 1. Comparison of example 2 with the composition according to request WO2016120552#

[0159] Example 3C shown in Table 3 below corresponds to a shaving gel composition according to application WO2016120552 in which a mixture of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide is used as an oleic acid neutralizing agent.

[0160] [Tables3] INCI % w / w 3C aqua qsp potassium hydroxide 3,56 sodium hydroxyde 0,27 acide oléique 17,21 natura-tec coconut oil-refined 5,79 sucrose cocoate 2,00 glycérine 2,09 hydroxyethylcellulose disodium phosphate polysorbate 60 sodium phosphate 0,75 coco-glucoside & glycéryl oleate & citric acid & tocopherol & hydroge nated vegetable glycerides citrate 0,5 isopropyl myristate 2,41 sorbitol 3,00 coco-caprylate / caprate 0,31 lauryl glucoside 0,34 polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystéarate 0,07 polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 0,07 polyglyceryl-4 caprate 0,50 parfum 1,00 colorant 0,00004 bisabolol 0,1 isopentane & isobutane 3.75

[0161] The results show that the shaving gel composition according to application WO2016120552 allows for good gas absorption in less than one minute. However, compared to the shaving gel according to example 2, a very thick and hard opaque gel pellet was produced at the outlet of the diffuser, which is not satisfactory for comfortable use by the user.

[0162] Also, the stability of the gel according to application WO2016120552 was studied and, unlike the gel according to example 2, a slight phase shift was observed after 2 weeks from 40°C.

[0163] Furthermore, the preparation of the composition according to application WO2016120552 proved more difficult to implement, compared to the preparation of the composition according to example 2. Indeed, drops in viscosity were observed, particularly during the addition of surfactants, requiring precautions to be taken to avoid the formation of foam.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising: - a combination of a sugar derivative chosen from celluloses and a glycerol ester; - at least one fatty substance chosen from saturated fatty acids of 10 to 24 carbon atoms; - at least one neutralizing agent chosen from sugar amines; - at least one gelling agent; and - at least one liquefied gas chosen from propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane or a mixture thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which said association of a sugar derivative chosen from celluloses and a glycerol ester is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein said combination of a sugar derivative selected from celluloses and a glycerol ester comprises from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said combination, of a sugar derivative selected from celluloses.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which said at least one fatty substance is present in an amount of between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one neutralizing agent is selected from N,N-dimethylglucamine, methylglucamine or hydroxy ethylglucamine.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which said at least one neutralizing agent is present in an amount of between 3% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and in a ratio of neutralizing agent relative to the fatty substance of between 0.3 and 3.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said at least one liquefied gas is a mixture of isopentane and isobutane and is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising formulation water, at least one humectant, at least one emollient, at least one coloring agent and at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic active ingredients such as perfumes, preservatives, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelators, pH adjusting agents or a mixture thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 10000 mPa.s.