Concentrated cosmeceutical composition, emulsifiable, to be diluted

Abstract

Concentrated Emulsifiable Cosmetic Composition for Dilution. The present invention relates to a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition for dilution in a predetermined volume of water. The invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, in particular obtained by diluting the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention in water, as well as a method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention and its use as a suitable cosmetic composition, in particular, for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face, or hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition for dilution FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted in a predefined volume of water.

[0002] The invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, in particular obtained by diluting in water the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention, as well as a method of preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention and its use as a suitable cosmetic composition, in particular, for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face, or hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0003] In recent years, consumers have had a better understanding and awareness of the cosmetic products they use, and the naturalness or ecological impact of the product has become a particularly important criterion.

[0004] In 2016, French production of plastic packaging amounted to 2.2 million tonnes, of which 1.2 million tonnes were household plastic packaging. At the current rate, it is estimated that by 2050, the global production and incineration of plastic, packaging or otherwise, could emit 2.8 billion tonnes of CO2 per year. In order to reduce the impact of plastic pollution on nature on the one hand and greenhouse gas emissions on the other, it is necessary to move away from the single-use plastic packaging model and identify alternatives with a lower environmental impact.

[0005] Thus, alternatives such as the use of biodegradable plastics, materials that can be recycled after consumption or reusable packaging have emerged in recent years.

[0006] Emulsions represent a particularly widespread galenic formulation and are present in many cosmetic products such as skin care products, hair care products or sun protection products.

[0007] An emulsion is a dispersion of liquid droplets in a continuous liquid medium, the two liquids often being water and oil. The phase contained within the droplets is called the "dispersed phase," and the phase constituting the dispersion medium is called the "dispersing phase" or "continuous phase." Emulsions are often stabilized by surfactant molecules whose hydrophilic part is in contact with the aqueous phase and whose hydrophobic part is in contact with the oily phase. In emulsion formulation, they are often called "emulsifiers." There are two types of emulsions: oil-in-water, where the dispersed phase is the oil phase, and water-in-oil, where the dispersed phase is the aqueous phase.

[0008] Cosmetic emulsions are predominantly Oil-in-Water type emulsions containing a continuous aqueous phase (water, aqueous phase gelling agent, humectant) and a dispersed oily phase (emollient, wax, O / W emulsifier, oil phase gelling agent).

[0009] As with most cosmetic or household products, emulsions are composed of approximately 80% water. Therefore, an alternative to reducing the amount of plastic per package compared to an equivalent standard product would be to eliminate the water from the products and retain only the oily phase containing the active raw materials. Indeed, concentrated or refillable products, being lighter and less bulky, not only reduce the amount of plastic but also decrease the overall carbon footprint over the product's entire life cycle, thus meeting new consumer expectations.

[0010] Another major drawback of emulsions comes from their often energy-intensive manufacturing process, the aqueous phase and the oily phase being heated to around 70-80°C and then emulsified under strong shear for a fairly long time, often more than 10 minutes, and at a high temperature, in order to obtain a fine enough emulsion to avoid any stability problems.

[0011] To overcome these drawbacks and in order to reduce the environmental impact related to the manufacture, packaging and transport of this type of product, cold emulsifiable concentrates have been developed.

[0012] For example, French patent FR2838653 is known, relating to a process for preparing an emulsion by diluting an emulsifiable concentrate comprising an amphiphilic copolymer in an aqueous phase, in order to produce emulsions, particularly those usable in the plant protection field. However, the dilution operation according to French patent FR2838653 requires agitation using a paddle frame (agitation at 200 rpm for 5 min).

[0013] US patent 6989149 is also known, relating to an emulsifiable concentrate comprising a cosmetic active ingredient, in particular a hair active ingredient, to be diluted in an aqueous composition comprising additional ingredients. However, the emulsifiable concentrate according to US patent 6989149 must be diluted either directly before or during application to the substrate to be treated, suggesting low stability of the resulting emulsion.

[0014] We also know of application WO03 / 043725 relating to a concentrate of emulsifiers to be diluted cold in a cosmetic composition in order to reconstitute an emulsion having strengthening and thickening properties of the layer lipid. However, the concentrate according to request WO03 / 043725 is not satisfactory in the sense that the addition of additional ingredients is necessary, which does not contribute to reducing the environmental impact.

[0015] Thus, the cold emulsifiable concentrates known in the prior art are not totally satisfactory in the sense that mechanical agitation or the addition of additional ingredients is often necessary, thus making it difficult for a user to reconstitute the final product.

[0016] There is therefore a need for a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted at home in a predefined volume of water, in order to reconstitute a stable and ready-to-use emulsion, suitable for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face, or hair.

[0017] The present invention therefore aims to provide a concentrated, cold-emulsifiable, liquid cosmetic composition comprising at least one fatty substance; an association of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; and at least one preservative agent.

[0018] Advantageously, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the present invention is liquid and, after dilution in a predefined volume of water, allows the reconstitution of a stable emulsion, i.e., one that does not exhibit any phase separation, coalescence, coagulation or sedimentation of the oil droplets over a period sufficient to be able to be kept before and / or during use, without alteration of the properties obtained after dilution, in terms of pH, viscosity or organoleptic properties and allowing proper compliance with the method of use of the reconstituted product.

[0019] Another advantage is that the emulsion obtained by diluting the emulsifiable concentrate according to the invention is ready for use, that is to say, it does not require the addition of ingredients other than the volume of water necessary to dilute the emulsifiable concentrate.

[0020] Yet another advantage is that the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention can be stored and used just like a conventional cosmetic product with a use-by date of more than one month, preferably more than 12 months.

[0021] SUMMARY

[0022] The invention relates to a concentrated, emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted, comprising: - from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty substance; - from 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; and - from 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative,

[0023] the percentages being expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the composition concentrated cosmetics.

[0024] According to one embodiment, said association of at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent comprises from 10% to 99% of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent and from 1% to 90% of at least one emulsifying agent, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said association.

[0025] According to one embodiment, said at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent is chosen from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents; semi-synthetic or chemically transformed natural gelling agents; salts; or a mixture thereof.

[0026] According to one embodiment, said at least one emulsifying agent is chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants or a mixture thereof.

[0027] According to one embodiment, said at least one fat is chosen from alkanes; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-siliconized mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-siliconized waxes, silicones, pasty fats or butters or a mixture thereof.

[0028] According to one embodiment, the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises 0.1% to 10% of at least one suspending and / or anti-caking agent selected from organic and mineral lipophilic suspending and / or anti-caking agents, waxes that are solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture thereof.

[0029] According to one embodiment, the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s, measured at 20°C and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a Type 2 Mobile, at a speed of 50 revolutions / minute.

[0030] The invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, comprising a concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention and water in a ratio of the concentrated cosmetic composition to the water ranging from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably from 1:5 to 1:15.

[0031] According to one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity greater than 500 mPas.s, measured at 20°C and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 5 Mobile, at a speed of 20 revolutions / minute.

[0032] The invention further relates to a method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a step of diluting the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition in a predetermined volume of water according to the invention, and a step of stirring the resulting mixture.

[0033] In one embodiment, the dilution is carried out in a suitable container such as a jar, a bottle, a vial or a flask, at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 100°C, preferably from 17°C to 50°C, and the step of stirring the resulting mixture consists of a simple manual stirring of said container, carried out by a user for a time of less than five minutes, preferably less than two minutes.

[0034] These embodiments are advantageous because they allow a ready-to-use cosmetic composition to be obtained by a very low energy consumption process, i.e. by cold dilution and minimal agitation by the user.

[0035] The invention further relates to the use of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention as a suitable cosmetic product for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face or hair.

[0036] The present invention further relates to a kit for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a first container, comprising an emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention and a second container intended to receive a volume of water necessary for the dilution of the concentrated cosmetic composition.

[0037] DEFINITIONS

[0038] In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:

[0039] The terms "aqueous phase gelling agent" and "aqueous phase thickening agent" refer to ingredients capable of modifying the rheology and / or increasing the viscosity of a liquid aqueous composition. "Aqueous phase gelling agents" and / or "aqueous phase thickeners" are of terrestrial (carob), marine (alginate), animal (gelatin), biofermentative (xanthan gum), mineral (silica, salts), or synthetic (carbomer) origin, and all confer specific sensory characteristics that can be combined by associating them in the composition. Without limitation, thickening agents may also include any combination of raw materials that increases the viscosity of the aqueous system, such as combinations of surfactants.

[0040] The term "gel" refers to a homogeneous, isotropic, rigid, vibrating, and elastic medium. A gel is a three-dimensional network of solids dissolved in a fluid that exhibits no flow when in a stable state. By mass, gels are primarily composed of liquid, but their behavior is similar to that of solids due to their three-dimensional network entangled within the liquid. These entanglements give gels their structure and contribute to their adhesion. For the purposes of this invention, a gel has a viscosity greater than 1000 mPa·s.

[0041] The term “emulsifying agent” refers to amphiphilic substances soluble in water and / or fats having the characteristic of adhering to the interfaces between water and fats or between fats and water, promoting the formation and / or stabilization of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion. In the context of the present invention, the emulsifying agent is chosen from chemical emulsifiers such as anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants or a mixture thereof; or physical emulsifiers, i.e. solid particles that adsorb at the interface between water and fats, such as clays, latex or cellulose nanoparticles.

[0042] The term “preservative” refers to any substance capable of resisting alterations of physical origin, such as photodegradation, also known as UV filters; chemical origin, such as transformation by redox reaction with air, a component, or a container, also known as an antioxidant; or microbiological origin, such as alteration by bacteria and fungi, also known as an antimicrobial agent. For the purposes of this invention, the preservative may be chosen from among the preservatives listed in Annexes V and VI of EU Regulation 1223 / 2009 on cosmetic products and / or any other preservatives known to those skilled in the art, such as preservation boosters.

[0043] The term "suspending agent" refers to any substance that prevents or limits the sedimentation of particles over time in order to ensure a uniform distribution of the product at the time of use, or at least to facilitate its re-homogenization. The term "anti-caking agent" refers to any substance that limits the agglutination of particles in the composition and thus ensures its fluidity. Therefore, suspending and / or anti-caking agents are substances capable of modifying the rheology of a liquid composition. For the purposes of this invention, the suspending and / or anti-caking agents are selected from among organic and mineral lipophilic suspending and / or anti-caking agents, semi-synthetic compounds or compounds of natural origin that have undergone chemical transformation, waxes that are solid at room temperature, butters, or a mixture thereof.

[0044] The term "include" and its variations should be understood according to the present invention as not excluding the presence of other steps and / or components. In certain embodiments, the term "include" may be interpreted as "essentially consisting of".

[0045] The term "fluid" or "liquid" refers to a system that is neither solid nor thick, having the property of flowing easily. For the purposes of this invention, a "fluid" or "liquid" has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s.

[0046] The term "viscosity" refers to all phenomena of resistance to the movement of a fluid in a flow with or without turbulence. According to the invention, The viscosity of the concentrated cosmetic composition is measured at room temperature (20°C) and at room pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 spindle, at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute and with a type 5 spindle, at a speed of 20 revolutions per minute for the ready-to-use cosmetic composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0047] Concentrated cosmetic composition

[0048] The present invention relates to a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, comprising at least one fatty substance; an association of at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; and at least one preservative agent.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0050] - from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty body;

[0051] - from 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent aqueous phase and at least one emulsifying agent; and

[0052] - from 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative,

[0053] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition.

[0054] According to the invention, the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition is liquid, that is to say, it has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s.

[0055] Fatty body

[0056] According to one embodiment, the fat or fats that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from all fats known to a person skilled in the art.

[0057] In one embodiment, the fat or fats that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-siliconized mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-siliconized waxes, silicones, pasty fats or butters or a mixture thereof.

[0058] In one embodiment, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and fatty acid esters have at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, by at least one hydroxyl group (e.g., 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or non-conjugated.

[0059] In one embodiment, the alkanes have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, the alkanes may be chosen from hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

[0060] Non-limiting examples of non-siliconized oils that can be used according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms like heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, linear, symmetric or asymmetric dialkyl carbonates;Hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils; examples of fluorinated oils include, but are not limited to, per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane; bromoperfluorooctyl; nonafluoromethoxybutane and no-nafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine.

[0061] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include non-alkoxylated fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

[0062] Non-limiting examples of non-siliconized waxes that can be used according to the invention include mineral waxes such as paraffin, ceresin, microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax and Alfa wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax; animal waxes such as beeswax, modified beeswax (cerabellina) or Chinese insect waxes; other waxes or waxy raw materials usable according to the present invention are, for example, marine waxes, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes or polyolefins in general.

[0063] Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters that can be used according to the invention include esters of Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbons in the esters being, for example, greater than or equal to 10.

[0064] Non-limiting examples of monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isocetyl octanoate; isocetyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyle stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myrystyle, stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0065] Other non-limiting examples of esters include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0066] Fatty acid esters can also be cited as esters of sugars and fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen that possess several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and have at least 4 carbon atoms. Sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, but are not limited to, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example, alkylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0067] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0068] In one embodiment, the silicones are chosen from volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not by organic groups.

[0069] In one embodiment, silicones are in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

[0070] Non-limiting examples of silicones that can be used according to the invention include polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organo-modified polysiloxanes having at least one functional group selected from poly (alkoxylated) groups, amine groups and alkoxy groups.

[0071] Non-limiting examples of pasty fats or butters that can be used according to the invention include lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; fluorinated polymeric or non-polymeric compounds; vinyl polymers such as olefin homopolymers or olefin copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; vinyl ether homo and copolymer oligomers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols; esters and polyesters; Ci0-Ci8 triglycerides; butters such as shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter,Illipe butter, Madhuca butter (or Bassia Madhuca longifolia), Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), Mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), Grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), Avocado butter (Persea gratissima), Olive butter (Olea europaea), Sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter,Jojoba esters (a mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters).

[0072] In a preferred embodiment, the fat or mixture of fats is chosen from compounds that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. In a preferred embodiment, the fat or mixture of fats is chosen from non-siliconized mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils as described above, or a mixture thereof, preferably from vegetable oils.

[0073] In one embodiment, the fat or mixture of fats is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, the fat or mixture of fats is present in an amount ranging from 25% to 95%. In a preferred embodiment, the fat or mixture of fats is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 90%.

[0074] Combination of at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent

[0075] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an association of at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent, said association comprising from 10% to 99% of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent and from 1.0% to 90% of at least one emulsifying agent, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said association.

[0076] Advantageously, said at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and said at least one emulsifying agent act in synergy to provide a liquid emulsifiable concentrate, leading after dilution to a sufficiently stable emulsion, whose properties, in terms of pH, viscosity or organoleptic properties, are not altered over time, thus allowing proper compliance with the method of use of the reconstituted product.

[0077] According to one embodiment, said combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In a preferred embodiment, from 1% to 30%. In a more preferred embodiment, from 5% to 25%.

[0078] Aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agents

[0079] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase gelling and / or thickening agent(s) that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents; semi-synthetic or chemically transformed natural gelling agents; or a mixture of these.

[0080] Non-limiting examples of synthetic gelling and / or thickening agents that may be used according to the invention include anionic gelling agents such as carbomers, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, co acrylic or methacrylic acid polymers and a C1-C30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, modified sulfonated acrylic acid copolymers, associative acrylic polymers or copolymers or a mixture thereof; cationic gelling agents such as acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylate copolymer or poly-quatemium-37; polyethylene glycols such as glycerol fatty acid polyesters or ethoxylated polyglycerols or ethoxylated monosaccharide fatty acid polyesters.

[0081] Non-limiting examples of natural gelling agents that can be used according to the invention include gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tara gum, gellan gum, tragacanth gum, alginates, carrageenans, gelatin; pectins; agar-agar or a mixture thereof.

[0082] Non-limiting examples of semi-synthetic or chemically transformed natural gelling agents that can be used according to the invention include starch and its derivatives; celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, cellulose powder, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose or a mixture thereof.

[0083] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent(s) that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from synthetic gelling and / or thickening agents, preferably from anionic or cationic gelling and / or thickening agents, more preferably from sodium polyacrylate or polyquaternium-37.

[0084] In one embodiment, when the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer-type conditioning agent or cationic surfactant as described below and / or at least one cationic agent as described below, then the aqueous phase gelling and / or thickening agent is chosen from among the cationic gelling agents, preferably polyquaternium-37, in order to avoid interactions that could occur between an anionic gelling agent and the cationic compound.

[0085] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 20%. In another embodiment, in an amount ranging from 5.0% to 15%.

[0086] Emulsifying agents

[0087] According to one embodiment, the emulsifying agent(s) that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from chemical emulsifiers such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof; or physical emulsifiers such as clays, latex or cellulose nanoparticles.

[0088] In a preferred embodiment, the emulsifying agent(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants or a mixture thereof.

[0089] Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants that may be used according to the invention include alkyl sulfates; alkyl ether sulfates; alkylamido ether sulfates; alkylaryl polyether sulfates; monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates; alkylamide sulfonates; alkylarylsulfonates; α-olefinsulfonates; paraffinsulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates; alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfoacetates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl glutamates; alkyl ether carboxylates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurate; monoalkyl esters of polyglycoside and polycarboxylic acids; acyl lactylates; D-galactosideuronic acid salts; alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts; alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts;the salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and the corresponding unsalted forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group; lipo-amino acids such as sodium lauroyl oat amino acids and sodium cocoyl apple amino acids; or a mixture thereof.

[0090] In one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is a salt of at least one anionic surfactant as described above. In one embodiment, the salt is selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as amino alcohol salts; or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

[0091] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that may be used according to the invention include distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, soytrimonium chloride, octacosatrimonium chloride, ceteartrimonium chloride, tallowtrimonium chloride, dodecylhexadecyltrimonium chloride, octyldodecyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, dodecylbenzyltrimonium chloride, di-Ci2-Ci5 alkyl dimonium chloride, Ci2-Ci8 dialkyldimonium chloride, di-Ci2-Ci8 alkyl dimonium chloride, dicapryl / dicaprylyl dimonium chloride, didecyldimonium chloride, chloride of dicetyldimonium, dicocodimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, ceteardimonium chloride, behe- chloride nalkonium chloride, olealkonium chloride, hydroxyethyl oleyl dimonium chloride, cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride, lactamidopropyl trimonium chloride, behenoyl pg-trimonium chloride, stearoxypropyltrimonium chloride, lauroyl pg-trimonium chloride, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, panthenyl hydroxypropyl steardimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl bisstearyldimonium chloride, hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, be-henamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, or a mixture of these.

[0092] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that can be used according to the invention include secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives possibly quaternized comprising at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which at least one aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0093] Examples include (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (Ci-C6) betaines such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, or (C8-C20) al-kylamido (Ci-C6) alkyl sulfobetaines.

[0094] We can also mention secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines possibly quaternized such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium ca-prylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0095] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be used according to the invention include:

[0096] - Alkoxylated derivatives of fatty alcohols, alkylphenols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and fatty acid amides. In one embodiment, the alkoxy groups are chosen from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and mixtures thereof, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and mixtures thereof. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated;

[0097] - alkyl polyglucosides, which are the condensation products of long-chain alcohols chain, for example, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n—O—R in which S is a sugar fragment; n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group. Non-limiting examples of long-chain alcohols include chains include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, myristyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol;

[0098] - alkanolamides resulting from the acylation of an amino alcohol by a fatty acid. Non-limiting examples of amino alcohols include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, isopropanolamine, or diethylene glycolamine (2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol). Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and fatty acids derived from vegetable oils such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, wheat germ oil, peanut oil, corn oil, and olive oil;

[0099] - esters of sugars and mono- or polyacids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of mono- or polyacids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms include oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acid, or mixtures thereof such as mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate;

[0100] - glyceryl esters such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, the glyceryl monoistearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof; polyglyceryl esters such as poly-glyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl dii-sostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate and mixtures thereof;

[0101] - sorbitan mono-, di-, tri-, and esters such as sorbitan monooleate, ses sorbitan quioleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan stearates, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan dipalmitates and sorbitan isostearate;

[0102] - alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters and of alkylpolyglycosides, in which the alkoxy groups are chosen from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives being preferred;

[0103] - triblock copolymers of formula HO(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b(C2H4O)aH, in which “a” represents a hydrophilic unit of polyethylene oxide (PEO) and “b” a hydrophobic unit of polypropylene oxide (PPO).

[0104] The term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen that have several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and have at least four carbon atoms. Sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, but are not limited to, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. derivatives, for example alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0105] In one embodiment, the emulsifying agent(s) are chosen from surfactants having an HLB greater than 14. In a preferred embodiment, the emulsifying agent(s) are chosen from non-ionic surfactants, preferably from alkyl polyglucosides, glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, or a mixture thereof.

[0106] The term "HLB" or "Hydrophilic / Lipophilic Balance" refers to a number used to characterize the predominantly lipophilic or hydrophilic nature of a surfactant. If the surfactant has an HLB greater than 10, it will be predominantly hydrophilic, and if the HLB is less than 10, it will be predominantly lipophilic. See "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions of surfactants.

[0107] In one embodiment, the emulsifying agent(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%. In another embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 15%.

[0108] Preservatives

[0109] In one embodiment, the preservative agent(s) that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from organic acids or one of their salts; glycol ethers; halogenated preservatives; aldehydes; alcohols; cationic agents; essential oils; natural or synthetic antioxidants; organic or inorganic UV filters; or a mixture thereof.

[0110] Non-limiting examples of organic acids that may be used according to the invention include benzoic acid, propionic acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, formic acid, undecylenic acid, or a mixture thereof. Salts and esters of at least one organic acid as described above may also be used. In one embodiment, the salt is selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as amino alcohol salts; halide salts such as chloride or bromide; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium and calcium salts; sulfate salts; or acetate salts.

[0111] Non-limiting examples of glycol ethers that may be used according to the invention include phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, 2-butoxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol, or a mixture thereof.

[0112] Non-limiting examples of halogenated preservatives that may be used according to the invention include triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and methylchloroisothiazolinone. zolinone, chlorphenesin, chloroxylenol, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-Bromo-5-nitro-l,3-dioxane, 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, triclocarban, chlorocresol, chlorophene, bromochlorophene, chloroacetamide, or a mixture thereof.

[0113] Non-limiting examples of aldehydes or aldehyde releasers that may be used according to the invention include formaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, benzylhemiformal, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, DMDM ​​hydantoin, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, or a mixture thereof.

[0114] Non-limiting examples of alcohols that may be used according to the invention include ethanol, benzyl alcohol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, phenylpropanol or a mixture thereof.

[0115] Non-limiting examples of cationic agents that may be used according to the invention include primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amine salts optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts such as quatemium-15, alkyl (C12-C22) trimethyl ammonium bromides or chlorides such as behentrimonium chloride or bromide, cetrimonium chloride or bromide, laurtrimonium chloride or bromide, steartrimonium chloride or bromide; benzalkonium chloride, bromide or saccharinate; benzethonium chloride; or a mixture thereof.

[0116] Non-limiting examples of natural or synthetic antioxidants that may be used according to the invention include sulfites such as sulfur dioxide, sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, potassium bisulfite, calcium sulfite, calcium bisulfite; ascorbic acid or vitamin C, sodium ascorbates, calcium ascorbates, diacetyl 5,6-1-ascorbic acid, palmityl 6,1-ascorbic acid; citric acid, sodium citrates, potassium and calcium citrates; tartaric acid, sodium tartrates, potassium tartrate; butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene; octyl gallate, dodecyl gallate; sodium lactate, potassium lactate, calcium lactate; acetophenone derivatives such as hydroxyacetophenone and its mixture with phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,2-octanediol;lecithins; natural tocopherols, α-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, all the tocopherols constituting vitamin E; or a mixture of these.

[0117] Non-limiting examples of organic or inorganic UV filters that can be used according to the invention include benzophenones and their derivatives such as benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-35 or diethylamino hydroxybenzylhexyl benzoate; camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, polyacryla- midomethyl benzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid or tereph-talydene dicamphor sulfonic acid; salicylic acid derivatives such as homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate or octyl salicylate; benzimidazoles such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate; dibenzoyl methane such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; benzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, benzotriazole dodecyl p-cresol or sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfate; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA; cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate or isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; triazine derivatives such as ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone or methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol; malonate such as polysilicone-15;metallic oxides such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide; magnesium silicate; kaolin; or a mixture thereof.

[0118] In a preferred embodiment, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a preservative agent selected from glycol ethers, cationic agents or a mixture thereof.

[0119] In one embodiment, the preservative is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 25%. In a more preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 20%.

[0120] Fat phase suspending and / or anti-caking agents

[0121] According to one embodiment, when the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises ingredients in powder form that are difficult to dissolve in the oil phase, then the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one suspending agent and / or at least one anti-caking agent of the oil phase.

[0122] Indeed, the presence of ingredients in powder form that are poorly soluble in the oil phase can lead to sedimentation or agglomeration of solid particles over time, which can make it difficult to homogenize and / or re-homogenize the concentrated cosmetic composition, or even compromise its dilution.

[0123] Advantageously, the presence of at least one suspending agent and / or at least one anti-caking agent in the concentrated cosmetic composition makes it possible to counteract the disadvantages mentioned above by limiting the sedimentation and / or agglomeration of solid particles over time.

[0124] When present, the fat-phase suspending and / or anti-caking agent(s) that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from among the agents organic and mineral lipophilic suspenders and / or anti-caking agents, waxes that are solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture thereof.

[0125] Non-limiting examples of organic lipophilic suspending and / or anti-caking agents that can be used according to the present invention include organopolysiloxanes; polystyrene / polyalkylene type copolymers such as polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene), polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene); polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide copolymers; polyamide type copolymers such as tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, ester-terminated poly(ester-amide), polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides or polyether polyamides; polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate(s);polysaccharide and fatty acid esters such as dextrin and fatty acid esters like dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates and mixtures thereof, mono-, di- or triesters of glycerol and fatty acid or inulin and fatty acid esters; polyethers, polyesters, polyurethanes, and modified polyurethanes, polyanhydrides, polycarbonates, polyureas, polyethylene, polyethylene oxide, polypropylene oxide, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycols, polyacetals, polyimides, polyolefins, polysulfides, polydimethylsiloxanes; fatty acids and their salts such as aluminium salts of fatty acids, calcium salts of fatty acids, potassium salts of fatty acids or sodium salts of fatty acids; or a mixture of these.

[0126] Examples of fatty acids include stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid or caprylic acid.

[0127] Non-limiting examples of mineral lipophilic suspending and / or anti-caking agents that may be used according to the present invention include clays such as hectorites modified with Ci0-C22 ammonium chloride, hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, benzalkonium-quatemium-18 bentonite, stéralkonium bentonite, stéralkonium hectorite; hydrophilic silicas; silicas in which the silanol groups are substituted by hydrophobic groups such as dimethylsiloxyl, trimethylsiloxyl or polydi-methylsiloxane groups; talc; diatomaceous earth; or a mixture thereof.

[0128] Other non-limiting examples of mineral suspending and / or anti-caking agents that may be used according to the present invention include metal carbonates such as calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, or sodium bicarbonate; metal silicates such as sodium silicate, calcium silicate, or magnesium trisilicate; metal stearates such as calcium stearate or magnesium stearate; and metal phosphates such as phosphate calcium (dibasic or tribasic), sodium aluminium phosphate (acidic or basic), sodium phosphate (monobasic, dibasic or tribasic); metallic ferrocyanides such as sodium ferrocyanide, potassium ferrocyanide, calcium ferrocyanide; metallic oxides and metallic hydroxides such as iron oxide or aluminium oxide; silicon dioxide.

[0129] Non-limiting examples of room-temperature solid waxes that can be used according to the present invention include waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral, synthetic origin, or a mixture thereof. These include, in particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and wax copolymers and their esters.

[0130] Non-limiting examples of butters that can be used according to the present invention include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and the butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters).

[0131] In a preferred embodiment, when present, the fat phase suspending and / or anti-caking agent(s) are chosen from mineral suspending and / or anti-caking agents, preferably from clays such as C10-C22 ammonium chloride-modified hectorite, distearyldimethylammonium chloride-modified hectorite, stéralkonium hectorite, benzalkonium and quatemium-18 bentonite or stéralkonium bentonite.

[0132] In one embodiment, when the oil-phase suspending and / or anti-caking agent(s) are present, they are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5.0%. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 2.0%.

[0133] In one embodiment, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0134] - from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty body;

[0135] - from 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent aqueous phase and at least one emulsifying agent;

[0136] - from 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative;

[0137] - optionally, from 0.1% to 10% of at least one suspending agent and / or at least an anti-caking agent for the fat phase

[0138] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition.

[0139] In a particular embodiment, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0140] - from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty body;

[0141] - from 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent aqueous phase and at least one emulsifying agent;

[0142] - from 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative;

[0143] - from 0.1% to 10% of at least one suspending agent and / or at least one anti-aging agent glomerative of fatty phase

[0144] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition.

[0145] Addendum

[0146] According to one embodiment, the concentrated composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the ingredients as described above.

[0147] In one embodiment, the concentrated composition according to the invention further comprises at least one humectant, at least one colouring agent selected from water-soluble or fat-soluble organic colourings, natural colourings of vegetable or mineral origin, pigments, mother-of-pearl or a mixture thereof; and at least one ingredient selected from cosmetic actives known to those skilled in the art, such as conditioning agents, perfumes, stabilizers, chelators, pH adjusting agents or a mixture thereof.

[0148] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the quantity of the cosmetic ingredient(s) so as not to alter the organosensory qualities and properties of the composition concentrated according to the present invention.

[0149] In the case where a hair care product is desired, then the concentrated composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers; cationic surfactants; organosilicones; non-siliconized liquid or solid fatty substances such as hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated fatty acids, liquid or solid fatty alcohols, mineral, vegetable or animal oils or waxes, fatty esters, liquid or solid hydrocarbon compounds, liquid or solid fatty amides; amino acids; moisturizing or humectant agents, in particular glycols and polyols which are in particular liquid, non-ionic saccharides, including hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed oligosaccharides, modified or unmodified.

[0150] The term “conditioning agent” refers to any compound capable of producing a conditioning effect on the skin or hair when the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention is used to reconstitute a ready-to-use cosmetic composition suitable for cleansing keratin fibers as described below.

[0151] In a preferred embodiment, the conditioning agent is chosen from cationic polymers or cationic surfactants as described above.

[0152] Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers that may be used according to the invention include starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, carob hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, caesalpinia spinosa hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, oxidized starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, ginseng hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, and propyltrimonium chloride copolymer. acrylamide / dimethyl-lacrylamide, dimethylacrylamide / ethyltrimonium methacrylate chloride copolymer, polymethacrylamide propyltrimonium chloride,le copolymère de chlorure d’acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylate, le chlorure de pg-hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium, le chlorure de pg-hydroxyethylcellulose stearyl-dimonium, le chlorure de soyamidopropalkonium, le chlorure de distearoylethyl dimonium, le chlorure de dipalmitoylethyl dimonium, les polyquatemium tels que po-lyquaternium-1, polyquatemium-10, polyquatemium-104, polyquatemium-11, poly-quatemium-15, polyquatemium-16, polyquatemium-18, polyquatemium-19, poly-quatemium-2, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-28, poly- , quatemium-30, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-35, poly-quatemium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-43, poly-quatemium-44, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-49, poly-quatemium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, poly-quatemium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-6, poly-quatemium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, poly-quatemium-65, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-68, polyquaternium-69, poly-quatemium-7, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, poly-quatemium-76, polyquaternium-78 and polyquaternium-80.

[0153] In one embodiment, when the concentrated composition according to the invention comprises at least one conditioning agent, this agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In a preferred embodiment, in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 30%.

[0154] Viscosity and stability

[0155] In one embodiment, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s. In another embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 10 mPa.s to 1000 mPa.s. In a preferred embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 20 mPa.s to 500 mPa.s.

[0156] Advantageously, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the present invention is liquid, which allows easier flow without loss of material on the walls of a container and therefore easier handling during dilution.

[0157] Another advantage is that the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention has a stability of more than one month, preferably more than twelve months, more preferably more than twenty-four months and can therefore be stored for several months before use, preferably up to 36 months.

[0158] Ready-to-use cosmetic composition

[0159] According to one embodiment, the invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprising a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention and water.

[0160] The embodiments defining the above emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition apply mutatis mutandis to the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0161] In one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprises an emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention and water, in a ratio of the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition to water ranging from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably in a ratio ranging from 1:2 to 1:15.

[0162] In one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprises from 5% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, of a concentrated cosmetic composition emulsifiable according to the invention and 50% to 95%, preferably 70% to 95%, of water, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition.

[0163] In one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprises:

[0164] - from 5% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, of a cosmetic composition emulsifiable concentrate comprising at least one fat; a combination of at least one fat-phase suspending agent, at least one aqueous-phase thickening and / or gelling agent, and at least one emulsifying agent; and at least one preservative, and

[0165] - from 50% to 95%, preferably from 70% to 95% water,

[0166] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition.

[0167] In a preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprises: • 5% to 50%, preferably 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition, of a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition comprising:

[0168] - from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty body;

[0169] - from 1% to 50% of a combination of at least one fat-phase suspending agent, of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; and

[0170] - from 0.5% to 30% of at least one preservative,

[0171] the percentages being expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition, and • 50% to 95%, preferably 70% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition, of water.

[0172] In one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by mixing a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention with water.

[0173] The term "mixing," and all its variants, refers to the dilution, contacting, combining, reconstituting, dissolving, dispersing, blending, or stirring of the concentrated cosmetic composition with water. It can also mean introducing the concentrated cosmetic composition into water and vice versa. It can also mean placing the concentrated cosmetic composition in the same container or vessel as the water and vice versa. For the purposes of this invention, stirring the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition with water is carried out manually by a user and does not require the use of a motorized mixer.

[0174] In a preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by diluting the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention in water, in a ratio of the concentrated cosmetic composition to water ranging from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably in a ratio ranging from 1:2 to 1:15.

[0175] In one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition has a viscosity greater than 500 mPa·s. In another embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 500 mPa·s to 50,000 mPa·s. In another embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 1,000 mPa·s to 30,000 mPa·s. In a preferred embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 3,000 mPa·s to 20,000 mPa·s.

[0176] Advantageously, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a stable and homogeneous emulsion, whose properties, in terms of pH, viscosity or organoleptic properties, are not altered over time, thus allowing proper compliance with the method of use of the reconstituted product.

[0177] Method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0178] The present invention also relates to a method of preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a step of mixing the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition as described above with water, and a step of stirring the resulting mixture.

[0179] In a preferred embodiment, the method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a step of diluting the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention in a predefined volume of water, and a step of stirring the resulting mixture.

[0180] In a preferred embodiment, the dilution of the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention is carried out in a suitable container such as a jar, a bottle, a vial or a flask, at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 100°C, preferably ranging from 17°C to 50°C.

[0181] Advantageously, when the ready-to-use cosmetic composition has been fully used by the user, the appropriate container can be reused for the dilution of a new concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition.

[0182] In one embodiment, the dilution of the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention is carried out by introducing a predefined volume of water into the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition followed by stirring the resulting mixture.

[0183] In a preferred embodiment, the dilution of the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention is carried out by introducing the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition into a predefined volume of water followed by stirring the resulting mixture.

[0184] In a preferred embodiment, the dilution of the concentrated cosmetic composition is carried out with a ratio of the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition to water ranging from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably ranging from 1:2 to 1:15.

[0185] In a preferred embodiment, the agitation of the resulting mixture consists of a simple manual agitation of the container, carried out by a user for a time of less than 5 minutes, preferably less than 2 minutes.

[0186] In one embodiment, the concentrated cosmetic composition is stored in a suitable container such as a jar, a bottle, a vial or a flask, the volume of which is sufficiently large to allow the addition, by pouring or dispensing, of a volume of water necessary to dilute the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition.

[0187] In a preferred embodiment, the volume of water required for the dilution of the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition is introduced into a first container such as a jar, a bottle, a vial, or a flask, the volume of which is sufficiently large to allow the addition, by pouring or dispensing, of the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition contained in a second container such as a jar, a bottle, a vial, a flask which may for example be equipped with a dosing system; a water-soluble or non-water-soluble sachet, a berlingo, a doypack-type container or a capsule.

[0188] In one embodiment, the first container and the second container may be separated by a temporary "barrier" which is removed or compromised, before use, to allow the mixing of the concentrated cosmetic composition with the volume of water necessary to dilute the concentrated cosmetic composition, the barrier being deformable, tearable, breakable, removable or soluble.

[0189] In a preferred embodiment, the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition is stored in a capsule equipped with a mechanically breakable lid, allowing the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition to be poured into the volume of water required for its dilution. This volume of water is stored in a container such as a jar, bottle, vial, or flask. The resulting mixture is then homogenized by simply shaking the container manually.

[0190] In one embodiment, the water used for diluting the concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition has a water content between 0 and 7. In another embodiment, a water content between 7 and 15. In another embodiment, a water content between 15 and 30. In another embodiment, a water content between 30 and 40. In one embodiment, a water content between 30 and 40. In one embodiment, the water content between 0 and 7 ...15. In one embodiment, the water content between 15 and 30 lisation, a hydrometric title greater than 40.

[0191] The term "total hardness" or "hardness" refers to the mineralization level of water. By definition, only the Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions, which are predominant in water, are taken into account in the calculation of water hardness; the others are considered negligible. Total hardness (TH) is calculated using the following equation:

[0192] TH = 10([ + [ A / g2+])

[0193] in which the concentrations are expressed in mmol / L and the water content in °f (French degree), one French degree corresponding to the hardness of a solution containing 10 mg / L of calcium carbonate CaCO3.

[0194] In one embodiment, the water used for diluting the concentrated cosmetic composition is selected from purified water, tap water, filtered water, natural mineral water, or spring water. In a preferred embodiment, the water used for diluting the concentrated cosmetic composition is tap water.

[0195] Use of a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0196] According to one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition obtained by diluting the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention in a predefined volume of water is directly usable as a cosmetic composition, that is to say, it does not require the addition of ingredients other than the volume of water necessary to dilute the emulsifiable concentrate.

[0197] Advantageously, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention has a stability of more than one month, preferably more than twelve months, more preferably more than twenty-four months and can therefore be stored for several months before and / or during use, preferably up to 36 months.

[0198] According to one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention is directly usable as a cosmetic product suitable for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face or hair. In one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream, a cream-gel, or a lotion suitable for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face, or hair, for example, a product intended for body moisturizing or hair conditioning.

[0199] Kit

[0200] The present invention also relates to a kit for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition as described above, comprising a first container, comprising a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition according to the invention and a second container for receiving a volume of water necessary for the

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[0202]

[0203]

[0204]

[0205]

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[0208]

[0209] dilution of the concentrated cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, the first and second container are chosen from a jar, a vial, a bottle, a water-soluble or non-water-soluble sachet, a berlingo, a capsule or a doypack-type container. In one embodiment, the kit according to the invention further includes an application means such as an applicator cap or an applicator dispenser. EXAMPLES The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting way. The concentrated cosmetic compositions according to examples 1 to 3 are prepared according to any method known to a person skilled in the art for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, using the ingredients described in Table 1 below. All percentages mentioned for the compositions in the examples below are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The viscosity of the concentrated cosmetic composition is measured at room temperature (20°C) and at room pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 spindle, at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute and with a type 5 spindle and at a speed of 20 revolutions per minute for the ready-to-use cosmetic composition. Examples 1 to 3: Concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Table 1 below presents examples of concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic compositions to be diluted to reconstitute an emulsion suitable for cosmetic treatment of body skin (examples 1 and 2) and hair (example 3). INCI Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, olea europaea fruit oil, ethylhexyl cocoate, glycineavoine oil, helianthus annuus seed oil, ppg-3 benzyl ether myristate 55.0 - 70.0 dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, propylene carbonate - 80.0 - 95.0 45.0-55.0 sodium polyacrylate 5.50-7.50 - - polyquatemium-37 - 5.00 - 6.50 10.50-13.50 behentrimonium chloride - - 9.50-11.50 phenoxyethanol 4.00 - 10.00 4.00 - 10.00 4.00 - 10.00 Dipropylene glycol - 4.00 - 5.00 Stearalkonium hectorite - 0.50 - 2.00 Aqua - 0.45 - 1.50 Lauryl glucoside - 0.10-0.60 Acrylates / stearyl methacrylate copolymer - 0.10-0.60 Polysorbate 20 - Sorbitan oleate - 0.10-0.60 Additive - 8.00 - 15.00 Cosmetic actives - 0.10 - 5.00 5.00 0.10-5.00 tocopherol - 0.01-0.05 0.01 - 0.05 Viscosity (mPa.s) <500 <500 <500 Appearance Opaque liquid Opaque liquid Opaque liquid

[0210] The stability of the concentrated cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 3 was evaluated at different temperatures, up to 50°C and at different periods, up to 36 months.

[0211] During the test period, no impact of temperature increase was observed on the physicochemical properties (pH, viscosity), organoleptic parameters and performance, showing good integrity of the concentrated cosmetic compositions over time.

[0212] Examples 4 to 15: Dilution of concentrated cosmetic compositions according to examples 1 to 3 and influence of water hardness on dilution. 1. Dilution of concentrated cosmetic compositions according to examples 1 to 3

[0213] The dilution of concentrated compositions according to examples 1 to 3 was evaluated at room temperature in tap water.

[0214] 20 mL or 40 mL of the concentrated compositions of examples 1 to 3 were added in 180 mL or 160 mL of tap water, the required volume of tap water being placed in a suitable container. The container was then shaken manually for approximately 1 minute.

[0215] Table 2 below shows the results of the dilution of the concentrated compositions according to examples 1 to 3.

[0216] [Tables2] Examples Composition Dilution Factor pH Viscosity (mPa.s) Appearance 4 Example 1 10 10 5.8-6.8 6500 -14500 Gel cream Tap water 90 5 Example 2 20 5 6.0-7.0 650 - 1500 Gel cream Tap water 80 6 Example 3 10 10 5.8-6.8 6500 -14500 Gel cream Tap water 90

[0217] An increase in viscosity was observed when diluting the concentrated compositions according to examples 1 to 3, allowing the reconstitution of an emulsion in the form of a homogeneous opaque cream gel, ready to use and suitable for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and / or face (examples 4 and 5) and hair (example 6).

[0218] The stability of ready-to-use cosmetic compositions according to examples 4 to 6 was evaluated at different temperatures, up to 50°C and at different periods of time, up to 36 months.

[0219] During the test period, a slight decrease in viscosity with increasing temperature was observed, while the pH, organoleptic parameters and performance of the ready-to-use compositions were not impacted by the increase in temperature, showing good stability of the ready-to-use compositions over time.

Claims

Demands

1. Concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted, comprising: - 20% to 99% of an oil phase composed of at least one oil; - 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; and - 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition, in which the viscosity is less than 1000 mPa.s, measured at 20°C and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 mobile, at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said association of at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent comprises from 10% to 99% of at least one thickening and / or gelling agent and from 1% to 90% of at least one emulsifying agent, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said association.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that said at least one aqueous phase thickening and / or gelling agent is selected from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents; semi-synthetic or chemically transformed natural gelling agents; salts; or a mixture thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said at least one emulsifying agent is selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants or a mixture thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said at least one fat is selected from alkanes; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-siliconized mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-siliconized waxes, silicones, pasty fats or butters, or a a mixture of these.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising from 0.1% to 10% of at least one suspending agent and / or at least one anti-caking agent selected from organic and mineral lipophilic suspending and / or anti-caking agents, waxes solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it has a viscosity ranging from 20 mPa.s to 500 mPa.s, measured at 20°C and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a Type 2 Mobile, at a speed of 50 revolutions per minute.

8. Method of preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, comprising a step of diluting the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in a predefined volume of water, and a step of stirring the resulting mixture, characterized in that the dilution is carried out in a suitable container such as a jar, a bottle, a vial or a flask, at a temperature from 15°C to 100°C, preferably from 17°C to 30°C, and in that the step of stirring the resulting mixture consists of a simple manual stirring of said container, carried out by a user for a time of less than 5 minutes, preferably less than 2 minutes.