Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion comprising a particular water-soluble UV filter, a base, a volatile oil, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxane and vitamin B3.

FR3129598B1Active Publication Date: 2025-03-14LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2021012584
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-11-26
Publication Date
2025-03-14
Estimated Expiration
2041-11-26
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Abstract

A cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion comprising a specific water-soluble UV filter, a base, a volatile oil, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxane, and vitamin B3. The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, notably for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase.comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphosulfonic acid group and / or at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, etc.); at least one organic or inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said water-soluble organic UV filter(s); and d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer; ete) at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes of HLB ≤ 8.0; and f) at least one vitamin B3; said composition not containing any non-volatile ester oil.
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion comprising a specific water-soluble UV filter, a base, a volatile oil, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, a linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethyl siloxane, and vitamin B3. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and aims to provide compositions more particularly dedicated to skincare and / or makeup.

[0002] The skin is not a smooth, uniformly colored surface and has raised areas and micro-reliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes, scars, and dry patches, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a pleasing whole, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.

[0003] Cosmetic makeup and / or skincare compositions are commonly used to camouflage, smooth, and / or even out skin surface imperfections such as pores, wrinkles, fine lines, and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or non-anhydrous, have been developed to date.

[0004] Applying a makeup composition such as foundation is the most effective approach to beautifying uneven skin by concealing blemishes and discoloration, reducing the visibility of surface imperfections like pores and wrinkles, and masking blemishes and acne scars; in this respect, coverage is one of the main properties sought. These compositions generally use high concentrations of pigments based on metal oxides such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, combined with particles called fillers that have a soft-focus effect. However, these compositions tend to accumulate in raised areas such as pores and wrinkles, leading to an uneven deposit on the skin, accentuating imperfections, and giving a matte finish perceived as unnatural.

[0005] There therefore remains a need to find new cosmetic compositions that are stable during storage, particularly with regard to temperature variations, and that effectively smooth and conceal skin imperfections thanks to good coverage performance, lasting throughout the day (wear), and that substantially reduce even to eliminate the marking effects of reliefs and mask effect on keratinous materials such as skin, to obtain good homogenization of the complexion and preferably a more natural less matte appearance as well as satisfactory cosmetic properties for the comfort of the consumer.

[0006] During its research, the applicant surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphosulfonic acid group and / or at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, and (c) at least one organic or inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said or water-soluble organic UV filters; and

[0007] d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and (e) at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes with an HLB < 8.0, and f) at least one vitamin B3; said composition not containing non-volatile ester oil.

[0008] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0009] The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphosulfonic acid group and / or at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, and (c) at least one organic or inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said or water-soluble organic UV filters; and

[0010] d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and (e) at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes with an HLB < 8.0, and f) at least one vitamin B3; said composition not containing non-volatile ester oil.

[0011] The invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, characterized in that it comprises the application on the keratinous materials of an emulsion as defined above.

[0012] The invention relates more particularly to a makeup and / or skin care method, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of an emulsion as defined above. Definitions

[0013] In the context of the present invention, keratinous materials mean the skin and more particularly areas such as the face, cheeks, hands, body, legs and thighs, the eye contour, eyelids.

[0014] Physiologically acceptable means compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling) likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, an emulsifying surfactant is understood to be an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is, one having two parts of different polarities. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in *The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection* (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0016] By water-in-oil emulsion, we mean a composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase that are not miscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0017] By oil, we mean a fatty organic substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm of Hg or 105 Pa).

[0018] By non-volatile oil, we mean an oil that remains on the keratinous material at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0019] By non-volatile ester oil, we mean any non-volatile oil consisting of a single ester compound or a mixture of ester compounds. Said ester oil or mixture of ester oils is in particular made up of one or more mono, di-, triester(s) of a carboxylic acid having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and a mono-alcohol or a polyol such as a glycol, in particular an alkylene glycol for example mixtures of esters with INCI names: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate and Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate.

[0020] By composition not containing non-volatile ester oil, we mean any composition comprising less than 2.0% by weight of non-volatile ester oil, or even less than 1.0% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or even free of non-volatile ester oil.

[0021] Continuous oily phase

[0022] The composition of the invention comprises a continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0023] Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). It is organic, namely comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms, and is immiscible in water.

[0024] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0025] By oil, we mean a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm of Hg or 105 Pa).

[0026] The total concentration in the oil phase of the composition of the invention varies, preferably, from 20 to 95% by weight, and more particularly from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oils

[0027] For the purposes of this invention, volatile oil means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0028] The volatile oil or oils are preferably present from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight and even more preferably from 12 to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition. a) Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0029] By hydrocarbon oil, we mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic groups

[0030] By way of example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, one may cite hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®, C8-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the Shell brand by the Shell company, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in Cognis patent application DE10 2008 012 457.

[0031] Isododecane will be used more specifically. b) Volatile silicone oils

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, silicone oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0033] Among the volatile silicone oils that can be used in compositions, examples include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 106 m2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0034] Among these oils, linear volatile silicone oils with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 8 (from 1.106 to 8 106 m2 / s) such as octamethyltrisiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID ICS® by the company DOW CORNING, will be used more preferentially; - decamethyltetrasiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1.5CS® by the company DOW CORNING; - dodecamethylpentasiloxane, such as the commercial products sold under the names KF-96L-2CS®, DM-FLUID-2CS® by Shin Etsu; BERB-DM2® by BRB International or XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 2CS® by DOW CORNING, - their mixtures.

[0035] Dodecamethylpentasiloxane will be used more specifically.

[0036] Examples of usable cyclic volatile silicone oil in the invention include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil will be used, and more particularly a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Aqueous phase

[0038] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents.

[0039] A suitable water for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0040] In the present invention, a water-soluble solvent is defined as a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0041] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0042] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0043] The aqueous phase is present, preferably, in a concentration of at least 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 30 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 35 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Water-soluble organic UV filter

[0044] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one water-soluble organic UV filter selected from UV filters comprising at least one benzylidene camphosulfonic acid group, UV filters comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, and mixtures thereof

[0045] By water-soluble organic UV filter, we mean any organic compound that filters UV radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 400 nm and is capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in an aqueous phase liquid or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0046] a) Water-soluble UV filters with benzylidene camphosulfonic acid(s) group(s)

[0047] Among water-soluble organic UV filters with benzylidene acid(s) camphosulfonic(s), we can cite benzene l,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camprosulfonic acid) with INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.

[0048] These water-soluble UV filters conform to the following general formula (I)

[0049] wherein F designates a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an NH(R')3+ radical, in which the R1 radicals, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, or an Mn+ group designating a versatile metal cation in which n is equal to 2, 3, or 4, preferably a metal cation selected from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+, and Zr4. It is understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the cis-trans isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all isomers fall within the scope of the present invention.

[0050] The following UV filters can also be mentioned: - Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL® by CHIMEX, - Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name MEXORYL SO® by CHIMEX, - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW® by CHIMEX.

[0051] b) Water-soluble UV filters with benzoazole sulfonic acid group(s)

[0052] Among the water-soluble organic UV filters with benzoazole sulfonic acid group(s) and their salts according to the present invention, we may mention compounds comprising at least two benzoazole sulfonic acid groups such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US patent 2,463,264 as well as patent application EP0669323B1.

[0053] Among these compounds, we can mention 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid with the following structure:

[0054] It is sold in the form of the disodium salt with INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate and under the name NEOHELIOPAN AP® by the company Symrise.

[0055] Among the water-soluble organic UV filters with benzoazole sulfonic acid group(s) and their salts according to the present invention, we can also mention the UV filter with INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name EUSOLEX 232® by the company MERCK.

[0056] Preferably, a water-soluble UV filter will be used, chosen from Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, and their mixtures, and more particularly Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid.

[0057] The water-soluble organic UV filter(s) according to the invention are partially or totally neutralized by an inorganic base.

[0058] The water-soluble UV filter(s) according to the invention are preferably present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one organic or inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said or the water-soluble organic UV filters of the invention.

[0060] An organic base is understood to be a hydrocarbon molecule comprising at least carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, capable of capturing one or more protons in aqueous media.

[0061] An inorganic base is understood to be a molecule not comprising a carbon atom capable of capturing one or more protons in aqueous media.

[0062] The organic base is preferably chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tri-isopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also called tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0063] The inorganic base according to the invention is preferably chosen from alkali metal cation bases such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH), potassium hydroxide (KOH), lithium hydroxide and cesium hydroxide or alkaline earth metal cation bases such as magnesium, calcium or barium hydroxides.

[0064] An inorganic base, and more particularly sodium hydroxide, will be used. Hydrophobic film-forming polymer

[0065] For the purposes of this invention, a polymer is defined as a compound consisting of the repetition of one or more motifs (these motifs being derived from compounds called monomers). This motif or these motifs are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.

[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, a hydrophobic film-forming polymer is defined as a film-forming polymer that has no affinity for water and, as such, is not suitable for formulation in the solute state in an aqueous medium. In particular, a hydrophobic polymer is defined as a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.

[0067] By film-forming polymer, we mean a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinous materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and even better a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is made by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

[0068] In particular, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer selected from the group comprising film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium.

[0069] As examples of hydrophobic film-forming polymers, we can mention in particular - silicone resins; - sequenced ethylenic copolymers; - vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif; - silicone acrylate copolymers - their mixtures.

[0070] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 7% by weight of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) active material, relative to the total weight of the composition. I. Silicone Resins#

[0071] More generally, the term resin refers to a compound with a three-dimensional structure. Silicone resins are also called silicone resins or siloxane resins. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0072] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as MDTQ, the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit.

[0073] The letter M represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RiR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0074] The letter D signifies a functional Di unit RiR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0075] The letter T represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RiSiO3 / 2.

[0076] Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.

[0077] In the motifs M, D, T defined above, R, namely Riet R2, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0078] Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0079] Various silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the dangling chains.

[0080] As examples of silicone resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, silicone resins of type MQ, type T or type MQT can be used.

[0081] As an example of MQ type silicone resins, alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(Ri)3SiOi / 2] x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) may be cited, in which x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the Ri group represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.

[0082] As an example of solid silicone resins of type MQ of trimethylsiloxysilicate, we can cite those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.

[0083] Phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151® marketed by General Electric), are also examples of silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate motifs. The preparation of such resins is described, in particular, in US patent 5,817,302. a. Resins T #

[0084] As an example of T-type silicone resins, we can cite polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes being able to further comprise Si-OH terminal groups.

[0085] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins can be used in which R represents a methyl group, such as those marketed: - by Wacker under the reference Resin MK®, such as Belsil PMS MK®: a polymer comprising repeating CH3SiO3 / 2 units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si-OH terminal groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A® which include 98% T units and 2% dimethyl D units and have Si-OH terminal groups or under the reference KR-251® which include 88% T units and 12% dimethyl D units and have Si-OH terminal groups. a. MQT Resins #

[0086] As a resin comprising MQT motifs, those cited in US document 5,110,890 are known in particular.

[0087] A preferred form of MQT-type resins is MQT-propyl resin (also called MQTPr). Such resins usable in the compositions according to the invention include, in particular, those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542.

[0088] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a ;

[0089] (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b;

[0090] (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c ; and

[0091] (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d.

[0092] with:

[0093] - RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or alternatively a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, - b being between zero and 0.3, - c being greater than zero,

[0094] - d being between 0.05 and 0.6,

[0095] -a + b + c + d= 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions, provided that more than 40% by mole of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0096] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units:

[0097] (i) ((Rl)3SiO1 / 2)a ;

[0098] (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c ; and

[0099] (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d.

[0100] with: - RI and R3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, RI preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or even between 0.2 and 0.55, -a + b + c + d = leta, b, cetd being mole fractions, provided that more than 40% by mole of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0101] The siloxane resins usable according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of:

[0102] A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mole percent of ((Rl)3SiO1 / 2)a and (SiO4 / 2)d units; with

[0103] - RI representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a an aryl group, a carbinol group, or an amino group,

[0104] - a and d being greater than zero,

[0105] - the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5;

[0106] and of:

[0107] B) a propyl T resin comprising at least 80 mole percent of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units; with

[0108] - R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a an aryl group, a carbinol group, or an amino group,

[0109] - c being greater than zero,

[0110] provided that at least 40% by moles of the R3 groups are propyl groups,

[0111] where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.

[0112] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the A / B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have been shown to allow comfortable deposition due to the absence of percolation of rigid MQ resin particles in the deposit.

[0113] Thus, preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from MQ type resins, in particular chosen from (i) alkylsiloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates, of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y, in which x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

[0114] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SILSOFT 74 by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS, SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by Dow Corning. a. Silsesquioxane resins #

[0115] Among the silsesquioxane resins usable in compositions according to the invention, alkyl silsesquioxane resins may be cited, which are homopolymers and / or copolymers of silsesquioxane having an average siloxane motif of formula RlnSiO(4 n) / 2, where each RI independently designates a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in C1-C10 where more than 80 mole percent of the RI radicals represent an alkyl group in C3-C10, n is a number from 1.0 to 1.4, and more particularly, a silsesquioxane copolymer will be used in which more than 60 mole percent comprises RlSiO3 / 2 units in which RI has the definition indicated above.

[0116] Preferably, the silsesquioxane resin is chosen such that RI is a C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, and more particularly a propyl group. More particularly, a polypropylsilsesquioxane or T-propyl silsesquioxane resin (INCI name: POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE (and) ISODODECANE) such as the product sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 670 Fluid by Dow Corning. I. Sequenced ethylenic copolymers#

[0117] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be a sequenced ethylenic copolymer, containing at least a first sequence having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least a second sequence having a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20°C,said first sequence and said second sequence being linked together by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first sequence and at least one of said second monomers constituting the second sequence, and said sequenced copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2.

[0118] Polymers of this type suitable for the invention are described in document EP1411069.

[0119] As an example of such polymers, one can more particularly cite MEXOMERE PAS® (Copolymer Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isobornyl Acrylate diluted to 50% in isododecane) marketed by the company CHIMEX.

[0120] The sequenced ethylenic copolymer may be, in particular, a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof as described in US-A-2002 / 005562 and US-A-5,221,534 patent.

[0121] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably below 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C, and preferably less than or equal to -40°C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C, in particular between -100°C and 0°C. The copolymer is amorphous and formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may, in particular, be an elastomeric ethylenic unsaturation monomer.

[0122] As an example of an olefin, ethylene hydrocarbon monomers, having in particular one or two ethylene unsaturations, having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene, may be cited.

[0123] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0124] Preferred in particular are sequenced copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising motifs selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0126] In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, possibly hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

[0127] Examples of diblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, and styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

[0128] Examples of triblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, include styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are notably sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, and Kraton® DI 160 by Kraton Polymers.

[0129] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.

[0130] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of a styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene diblock copolymer can be used, in particular those sold under the name Kraton® G1657M by Kraton Polymers.

[0131] A mixture of hydrogenated triblock styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer can also be used; such a mixture is notably found in isododecane. Such mixtures are, for example, sold by PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL® M5960 and VERSAGEL® M5670. I. Vinyl polymer comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif#

[0132] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be selected from vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif.

[0133] The vinyl polymer(s) notably possess a skeleton and at least one side chain, which includes a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.

[0134] In particular, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer motif as described in Dow Corning applications WO03 / 045337 and EP963751 may be used.

[0135] The term carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure possessing branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction from the bond to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese patent application filed with the public Kokai 9-171 154.

[0136] A vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif has a side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and can be obtained from the polymerization: - from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and - from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a radical-polymerizable organic group, represented by the general formula:

[0137] [Chem.3] in which Y represents an organic group polymerizable using radicals, R1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group possessing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X1 represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the following formula:

[0138] [Chem.4] in which R1 is as defined above, R2 represents an alkylene group with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R3 represents an alkyl group with 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X1+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group with 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group defined above with i = i + 1 ; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and ai is an integer from 0 to 3;

[0139] where said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is selected from:

[0140] organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the following formulas:

[0141] [Chem.5] ry CH2 = c—C—O--R 5 —

[0142] and

[0143] [Chem.6]

[0144] in which R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group,

[0145] R5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the following formula:

[0146] [Chem.7] in which R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, so that if c is 0,

[0147] -(R8)c- represents a bond.

[0148] The vinyl-type monomer that is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer that contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.

[0149] There are no particular limitations with regard to such a monomer.

[0150] The following are examples of this vinyl-type monomer: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a lower analogous alkyl methacrylate; methacrylate of glycidyl; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher analogous methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a lower analogous fatty acid vinyl ester; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or a higher analogous fatty acid ester; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, or similar aromatic vinyl monomers;methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, or analogous vinyl-type monomers containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate, or analogous vinyl-type monomers containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or analogous vinyl-type monomers containing a carboxylic acid group; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, or a similar vinyl-type monomer with ether bonds;methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or an analogous silicone compound possessing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid; an unsaturated monomer polymerizable with radicals possessing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrene sulfonic acid group; ; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and an ester of methacrylic acid of an alcohol possessing a tertiary amine group such as an ester of methacrylic acid and diethylamine.

[0151] Multifunctional vinyl-type monomers can also be used.

[0152] The following represent examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate ethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethylmethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups having divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or similar silicone compounds having unsaturated groups.

[0153] To facilitate the preparation of the raw material mixture for cosmetic products, the number-average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be selected from the range of 3,000 g / mol to 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 5,000 g / mol to 800,000 g / mol. It may be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder, or any other form. Preferred forms are solutions formed by dilution in solvents such as silicone oil or an organic oil, of a dispersion, or of a powder.

[0154] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or solution may have a concentration in the range of 0.1 to 95% by weight, preferably between 5 and 70% by weight. However, to facilitate handling and mixture preparation, the range should preferably be between 10 and 60% by weight.

[0155] According to a preferred mode, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP0963751.

[0156] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization: - from 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s); and - from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0157] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif may comprise a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif corresponding to one of the formulas

[0158] [Chem. 8]

[0159] or

[0160] [Chem.9]

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0162] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may further comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application WO 03 / 045337.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer as defined in the present invention can be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.

[0165] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0166] Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif that may be particularly suitable for the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100®, TIB 4-101®, TIB 4-120®, TIB 4-130®, TIB 4-200®, FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), TIB 4-220®, and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Corning. Preferably, the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202) and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Corning will be used.

[0167] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived motif usable in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYL SILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID® silicone acrylate by Dow Corning. IV. Silicone acrylate copolymers

[0168] According to a particular embodiment, a composition used according to the invention may include, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0169] In this application, a copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups is defined as a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0170] In this application, the term carboxylic monomer includes both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers. Thus, monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, their esters, and mixtures of these monomers.

[0171] Examples of esters include the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconoate and / or crotonoate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in the form of esters are more particularly chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably in C1-C24 and more preferably in C1-C22, the alkyl radical being preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0172] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups, at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] In this application, the term polydimethylsiloxanes (also called organopolysiloxanes or, for short, PDMS) is defined, in accordance with general acceptance, as any linear organosilicon polymer or oligomer of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal units in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bonding). =Si-O-Si=) comprising methyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The PDMS chains that can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, i.e., the PDMS may, for example, have a polymerizable radical group on both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a terminal trimethylsilyl group on the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group may be, in particular, an acrylic or methacrylic group, especially a CH2=CRi-CO-O-R2 group, where Ri represents a hydrogen or a methyl group, and R2 represents -CH2-, -(CH2)n- with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-; -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-, -ch2-ch2-o-ch2, -ch2-o-ch2-ch2-ch2-,

[0174] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one or both ends of the chain) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560.

[0175] The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol and preferably from about 5,000 g / mol to 100,000 g / mol.

[0176] The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be in the form as such or dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane).

[0177] Examples of copolymers that can be used in the composition of the invention include polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane grafted methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate copolymers.Examples of copolymers that can be used in the composition of the invention include the copolymers marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541® where the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), and KP-545® where the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane).

[0178] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, KP561® is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being approximately 30°C.

[0179] We can also mention the polydimethylsiloxane grafted acrylic acid copolymer dissolved in isododecane marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550®.

[0180] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker, under the Designation KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.

[0181] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker, under the name KF-7312®J by Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by Dow Corning.

[0182] Linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant The water-in-oil emulsion composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxane of HLB < 8, preferably polyoxypropylated and / or linear polyoxyethylenated, in particular corresponding to the following formula (I): [Chem 10] (I) in which: Rb R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a Ci-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one RB R2 or R3 radical not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;

[0183] A is an integer from 0 to 200;

[0184] B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time;

[0185] x is an integer ranging from 0 to 6;

[0186] y is an integer from 1 to 30;

[0187] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30.

[0188] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), Ri = R3 = methyl radical, x = 0 to 3, R4 is a hydrogen.

[0189] Examples of compounds of formula (I) include the following emulsifying surfactants with INCI names: - PEG / PPG-8 / 8 Dimethicone such as the products sold under the trade names SILUBE J208-4I®, SILUBE J208-6I®, SILUBE J208-8I® by the company; - PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone used alone, such as in products sold under the trade names ANDISIL SP 1818® by AB Specialty Silicones, JEESILC DMC 19® by Jeen International Corporation; SILSURF J-1013- V-CG® by Siltech LLC; XIAMETER OFX-0190 FLUID® by Dow Chemical Company; - the mixture of Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone such as the products sold under the trade names DOWSIL 5225C FORMULATION AID® by Dow Chemical Company; EMUSIL WO-5115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals Company; GRANSURF 10C® by Grant Industries, Inc. Company; JEESILC DMC522® by Jeen International Corporation; SILSURF 400R® by Siltech LLC Company; - the mixture of Cyclotetrasiloxane and Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone such as the commercial products sold under the name DOWSIL 3225C FORMULATION AID® by Dow Chemical; EMULSIL WO-3115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals; JEESILC DMC252® and JEESILC DMC322® by Jeen International Corporation; - Dimethicone and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone mixtures such as Dow Chemical's commercial products DOWSIL ES-5226 DM FORMULATION AID® and DOWSIL ES-5227 DM FORMULATIONS AID®; Grant Industries, Inc.'s GRANSURF 50C® and GRANSURF 50C-HM®; and SHIN ETSU's X-22-6711D. - PEG / PPG-19 / 19 Dimethicone and C13-C16 Isoparaffin and C10-C13 Isoparaffin mixtures such as Dow Chemical's commercial product DOW CORNING® BY 25-337; - PEG-3 Dimethicone such as the commercial product KF-6015® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; - PEG-10 Dimethicone such as the commercial products KF-6017® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; SERASOL SC 86® and SERASOL SC 86A® from KCC Corporation); - their mixtures.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises at least PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, preferably in association with a silicone oil, in particular a linear silicone oil of the dimethicone type (INCI name: Dimethicone and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone) such as the commercial products DOWSIL ES-5226 DM FORMULATION AID® and DOWSIL ES-5227 DM FORMULATIONS AID® of Dow Chemical; GRANSURF 50C® and GRANSURF 50C-HM® of Grant Industries, Inc. and X-22-6711D of SHIN ETSU.

[0191] According to another particular form, the composition of the invention comprises at least a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone and PEG-10 Dimethicone, preferably a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, dimethicone and PEG-10 Dimethicone.

[0192] The linear polyoxyalkylated polydimethylmethylsiloxane(s) according to the invention are preferably present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight and even more preferably from 1 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin B3, derivatives and salts

[0193] Vitamin B3 is defined as any molecule having the general formula:

[0194] [Chem 11]

[0195] in which R is -CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide, isoniacinamide), -COOH (i.e.: nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol) as well as its derivatives and salts of organic or inorganic acid or its salts of inorganic or organic base such as those mentioned above. Examples of vitamin B3 derivatives include: - Nicotinic acid esters such as those with the following INCI names: Niacinamide Ascorbate, Niacinamide Glycolate, Niacinamide Hydroxybenzoate, Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate, Niacinamide Lactate, Niacinamide Malate, Niacinamide Mandalate, Niacinamide Salicylate, Niacinamide Thioctate supplied by Bioderma Tech. Co LTD; - Quaternary ammonium salts such as Methyl Niacinamide Chloride (INCI name) such as the commercial product MNA Chloride® from Pharmena; - niacinamide reaction products with polypeptides such as those from yeast: INCI name Niacinamide / Yeast Polypeptide such as the commercial product sold under the trade name Vitazyme B3® by Arch Personal Care Products, LP / Lonza Personal Care.

[0196] Niacinamide will be used more specifically as in the commercial products sold under the name Niacinamide PC® (DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.) OriStar NA® (Orient Stars LLC) RonaCare Nicotinamide® (Merck KGaA / EMD Chemicals) RonaCare Nicotinamide ® (EMD Chemicals)

[0197] Vitamin B3 and / or one of its derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention, in concentrations of active matter ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments

[0198] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one pigment.

[0199] Pigments are defined as white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0200] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 10 to 30% by weight and preferably from 9 to 20% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0202] By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0203] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0204] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0205] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an effective particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., *Light Scattering by Small Particles*, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0206] D

[50] represents the maximum size of particles that have 50% of their volume

[0207] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, titanium dioxide and iron oxides coated with stearoyl may be cited more particularly. aluminum glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0208] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0209] By nacres, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0210] The nacres may be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0211] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0212] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can mention TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® mother-of-pearls (on a mica base) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® mother-of-pearls marketed by the company MERCK, PRESTIGE® mother-of-pearls on a mica base marketed by the company ECKART and SUNSHINE® mother-of-pearls on a synthetic mica base marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

[0213] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0214] By way of illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, we can, in particular, mention the gold-colored mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name of Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); the bronze mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna);brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by the; ENGELHARD company under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-tinted mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD company under the name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearls with a gold tint, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD company under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver®; and orange-pink and golden-green mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their blends.

[0215] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized such as that produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, stabilized means free from any effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0216] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0217] The metallic-reflecting particles usable in the invention are in particular selected from:

[0218] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative,

[0219] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, single-material or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one metallic sheen layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0220] - mixtures of said particles.

[0221] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0222] Metallic derivatives are defined as compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

[0223] By way of illustration of these particles, one can cite aluminium particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0224] We can also mention metallic powders of copper or mixtures of alloys, such as references 2844 marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminium or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® by the company ECKART, aluminium particles coated with silica marketed under the name VISION AIRE BRIGHT SILVER® by the company ECKART and metallic alloy particles, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by the company Eckart.

[0225] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0226] The goniochromatic staining agent can be chosen, for example, from interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal staining agents.

[0227] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures usable in compositions made according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: APSiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).For example, these pigments include the silica / titanium dioxide / tin dioxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK, and the silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin dioxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. INFINITE COLORS pigments can also be mentioned. SHISEIDO company. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from gold-green to grey-red for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; and from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

[0228] Examples of pigments with a polymer multilayer structure include those marketed by 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0229] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, one can use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

[0231] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous because it can be used in large quantities in conjunction with a large quantity of water. Moreover, when treated with a hydrophobic compound, it exhibits a predominant affinity for the oily gel phase, which can then carry it.

[0232] Of course, the compositions according to the invention may also contain uncoated pigments.

[0233] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0234] For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0235] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0236] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0237] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0238] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% % by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0239] The coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly heated, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0240] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0241] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0242] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0243] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. Silicone surfactant

[0244] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be treated on the surface totally or partially with a silicone compound.

[0245] Silicone surfactants may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0246] By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to the silicon atoms. Non-elastomer organopolysiloxane

[0247] Examples of non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

[0248] The alkoxy group can be represented by the RO- radical such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

[0249] A method for treating the surface of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists of dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent, then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0250] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular selected from polydimethylsiloxanes. Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

[0251] Alkoxy functional silanes are notably described by Witucki in A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

[0252] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

[0253] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino is described in the application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for processing pigments. Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0254] Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone skeleton as described in US patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US patents 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, may be used.

[0255] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers having in their structure the following formula motif (II):

[0256] [Chem. 11] (II) in which the identical or different Gb radicals represent hydrogen, a Ci-Cio alkyl radical, or a phenyl radical; the identical or different G2 radicals represent a Ci-Cio alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic unsaturated monomer ethylenic; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer from 10 to 350, provided that one of the parameters a and c is not equal to 0.

[0257] Preferably, the above formula motif (I) exhibits at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: - the radicals Gi designate an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; -n is non-zero, and the G2 radicals represent a divalent radical in Ci-C3, preferably a propylene radical; -G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the type alkyl (Ci-Cio)methacrylate, preferably of the type isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.

[0258] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type linker, mixed polymer motifs of the poly(meth)acrylic acid and poly(meth)acrylate type.

[0259] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate polymer motifs are grafted via a thiopropylene linker. Silicone resins

[0260] The silicone surfactant can be chosen from silicone resins such as those defined above. Fluorinated surfactant

[0261] The pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a compound of fluorinated nature.

[0262] Fluorinated surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropoly ethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropoly ether groups.

[0263] A perfluoroalkyl radical is understood to be an alkyl radical in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0264] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

[0265] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are specifically described in application JP H05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl amine diethanol phosphates marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530® may be used.

[0266] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, we can mention perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon organoperfluorinated compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

[0267] Among the perfluoroalkanes, we can mention the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0268] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and the perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), we can mention perfluorodecalin sold under the name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by the RHODIA Company, perfluoro(methyldecalin), the perfluoro(C3-C5)alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0269] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes we can mention the derivatives of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, the derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and the perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0270] Among the perfluoroarenes, we can cite the perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-l-naphthalene.

[0271] As an example of commercial references for pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, one can cite: - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei; - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei; -black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei; - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei; -yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki; - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under reference T 9506® by the company Waver-Jenkinson. Fluoro-silicone surfactant CH, CH Yes—Yes CH. R RF H,

[0272] The pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a fluoro-silicone compound.

[0273] The fluoro-silicone compound may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes, and perfluoroalkyltrialcoxysilanes. Examples of perfluoroalkyl silanes include LP-IT® and LP-4T®, marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone. Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: [Chem 12] GH, I ~ CH—& O CH, in which: - R represents a linear or branched alkyl divalent group, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl divalent group; - Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms; -m is chosen between 0 and 150, preferably between 20 and 100; and -n is chosen between 1 and 300, preferably between 1 and 100.

[0274] As an example of commercial references for pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. Other lipophilic surfactants

[0275] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from

[0276] (i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0277] As examples of metallic soaps, one can cite in particular metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0278] The metal in metallic soap may include zinc or magnesium.

[0279] As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

[0280] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0281] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0282] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0283] The salts of these compounds may be the salts of aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.

[0284] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative can be in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate.

[0285] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0286] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0287] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0288] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate

[0289] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from vii) waxes natural plant or animal waxes or synthetic polar waxes;

[0290] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from viii) fatty esters, in particular from jojoba esters;

[0291] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from ix) phospholipids.

[0292] The waxes mentioned in the compounds cited above may be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

[0293] They may in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, possibly containing ester or hydroxyl groups. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0294] Polar wax is defined as a wax containing chemical compounds with at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may include, for example, alcohol, ester, or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, and Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not considered polar waxes.

[0295] In particular, polar waxes have a mean solubility parameter ôa of HANSEN at 25°C such that ôa > 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2 and better ôa > 1 (J / cm3)1 / 2: ™ 4- «S£ where ôp and ôh are respectively the polar and interaction-type contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0296] The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

[0297] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0298] - ôp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles thus that the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0299] The parameters ôp and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0300] A polar wax is notably made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

[0301] By way of illustration and not limitation of these polar waxes, we may mention in particular natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes from China, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

[0302] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0303] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.

[0304] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, notably a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0305] By way of examples of coated pigments according to the invention, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate may be mentioned in particular. of aluminium, for example marketed under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI. Pigments not coated by a hydrophobic compound

[0306] As stated previously, a composition may further contain pigments not coated by a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0307] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

[0308] These pigments may be mineral pigments, in particular as defined above.

[0309] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0310] By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0311] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.

[0312] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0313] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0314] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0315] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0316] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1). Nature of the hydrophilic coating

[0317] As stated previously, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0318] Said hydrophilic compound allowing surface treatment of a pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0319] Examples of biological polymers include carbohydrate-type monomer-based polymers.

[0320] In particular, one can mention biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxychitosans, carboxymethyl chitosans, carboxybutyl chitosans, chitosans gluconate, chitosans adipate, chitosans glycolate, chitosans lactate, etc.; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0321] Examples of carbohydrates include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, with the general formula: Cx(H2O)y

[0322] in which x and y can range from 1 to 1,000,000.

[0323] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0324] Examples of carbohydrates include amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified maize starch, glycogen, acid hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum Vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0325] Alkylene glycols in Ci-C2o or alkylene glycol ethers in Ci-C20 can also be used as surface treatment agents, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C2o-alkylsilanes.

[0326] Examples include pigments treated on the surface with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane, such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by the company KOBO under the name of SW pigments.

[0327] Silicones such as dimethicones possessing hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, may also be suitable for the invention as surface treatment agents. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, alkylene oxides in the form Ci-C2O, such as ethylenic or propylenic.

[0328] As an example, we can cite the pigment treated with PEG-12-Dimethicone, marketed by the company SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ® Pigment.

[0329] The quantity of pigments coated by at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigments is in particular conditioned by the purpose of the cosmetic composition in question and its adjustment is of course within the competence of the formulator of the composition. Non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer

[0330] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0331] The term non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene motifs (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl motifs.

[0332] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition-crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking-dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation-crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl-terminated hydroxyl and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

[0333] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenic unsaturation groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

[0334] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.

[0335] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0336] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0337] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear chain structure or a branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0338] The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

[0339] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0340] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0341] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0342] Besides the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0343] Organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and copolymers dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.

[0344] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.

[0345] According to another embodiment, compound (B) may be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. Hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene, is an example.

[0346] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0347] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0348] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and includes, in particular, chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.

[0349] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0350] As spherical non-emulsifying elastomers, one can for example use those sold under the names DC 9040®, DC 9041®, DC 9509®, DC 9505® by the Dow Corning company.

[0351] Those sold under the names can still be used KSG-6®, KSG-15®, KSG-16®, KSG-18®, KSG-41®, KSG-42®, KSG-43®, KSG-44®, by Shin Etsu Company; Gransil SR 5CYC® gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel®, Gransil SR DC556 gel®, Gransil RPS®, Gransil DMG-6® and Gransil DMG-6® LC by Grant Industries Company; 1229-02-167®, 1229-02-168® and SFE 839® by General Electric Company.

[0352] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form carried in at least one silicone oil, preferably a linear silicone oil of the dimethicone type.

[0353] One can cite for example the Polysilicone-11 / Dimethicone mixture such as the commercial product Gransil DMG-6® and Gransil DMG-6® LC from Grant Industries.

[0354] The composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer content expressed as organopolysiloxane elastomer (i.e. as active material), preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0355] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one dimethicone with a viscosity of 10⁶ to 8.10⁶ m² / s and / or a C8-Ci₆ isoalkane, preferably isododecane, and

[0356] b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter selected from Terephthalylidene Dicamphor, Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, 1,4-bis-benzhnidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and mixtures thereof; and more particularly Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; and c) sodium hydroxide; and

[0357] d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate resins, and

[0358] e) at least the emulsifying surfactant PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, preferably in the form of a mixture with a dimethicone and

[0359] f) niacinamide.

[0360] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one dimethicone with a viscosity of 10⁶ to 8.10⁶ m² / s and / or a C8-Ci₆ isoalkane, preferably isododecane, and

[0361] b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter selected from Terephthalylidene Dicamphor, Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, 1,4-bis-benzhnidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and mixtures thereof; and more particularly Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; and c) sodium hydroxide; and

[0362] d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate resins, and

[0363] e) at least the mixture of emulsifying surfactants PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone and PEG-10 Dimethicone, preferably the mixture of emulsifying surfactants: Dimethicone and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone and PEG-10 Dimethicone.

[0364] f) niacinamide.

[0365] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular with a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate. Additives

[0366] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, include organic UV filters other than those described above; inorganic UV filters; moisturizing agents such as polyols like glycerin, propanediol, and pentylene glycol; fillers; colorants; thickening or gelling agents; preservatives, chelating agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Fillers

[0367] Compositions according to the invention may also include at least one filler, of an organic or mineral nature, enabling, in particular, the provision of additional properties of matte finish, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0368] By filler, we mean colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. Whether mineral or organic in nature, they contribute to giving body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0369] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0370] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0371] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0372] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile powder like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, the zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, PolyporeO L 200 (Chemdal Corporation),Cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, particularly silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5538793. It can also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range. Silica particles

[0373] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the silica particles chosen by the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, the silica particles different from the former, and mixtures thereof. i. Hydrophobic silica aerogels #

[0374] Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (notably by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0375] The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0376] By hydrophobic silica is meant any silica whose surface is treated by silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups by silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0377] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0378] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.

[0379] By hydrophobic aerogel particles, we mean any aerogel-type particle having a water absorption capacity at the WET POINT of less than 0.1ml / g, i.e., less than 10g of water per 100g of particle.

[0380] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and denoted WP, ​​corresponds to the quantity of a solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) that must be added to 1 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the solvent (water or oil) uptake of powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of solvent adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by Wet Point measurement, described below:

[0381] A glass plate (25 x 25 mm) is placed on a balance, and a quantity m of 1 g of powder is weighed onto the glass plate. A solvent (water or isononyl isononanoate, for example) is then added drop by drop. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, mixing the mixture regularly (every 3 to 4 drops) with a spatula. The addition of solvent is stopped when a homogeneous paste is obtained. This paste should spread easily on the glass plate without cracking or lump formation. The mass of solvent required to obtain the wet point is recorded. The average is calculated over 3 trials. Knowing the density of the solvent, the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of solvent used is deduced. The solvent intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0382] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention preferably have an oil absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0383] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 200 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) less than 1500 pm and preferably 1 to 30 pm, preferably 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0384] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0385] The particle sizes of the aerogel according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern Master Sizer 2000®. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an effective particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., *Light Scattering by Small Particles*, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0386] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density ranging from 0.02g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.02g / cm3 to 0.08g / cm3.

[0387] Within the framework of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density protocol: Forty grams of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then placed on the STAMPF VOLUMETER STAV 2003® apparatus; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 compactions (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured directly on the cylinder. The compacted density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

[0388] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of 5 to 60 m² / cm², preferably of 10 to 50 m² / cm² and better of 15 to 40 m² / cm².

[0389] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM.p where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0390] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic and more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the properties stated above.

[0391] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, one can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0392] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201®, AEROGEL OGD 201® and AEROGEL TLD 203®, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200®.

[0393] In particular, we will use T aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0394] We will also use T aerogel marketed under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100® (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company CABOT, whose particles have an average size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0395] Hydrophobic aerogel particles represent 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, better 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably still 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Other silica particles

[0396] Other usable silicas can be natural and untreated. Examples include the silicas offered under the names SILLITIN N85®, SILLITIN N87®, SILLITIN N82®, SILLITIN V85® and SILLITIN V88® by the company HOFFMANN MINERAL.

[0397] They can be pyrogenated.

[0398] Fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. This process makes it possible, in particular, to obtain hydrophilic silicas that have a significant number of silanol groups on their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups. In particular, one can substitute silanol groups are combined with hydrophobic groups: this results in hydrophobic silica.

[0399] Hydrophobic groups can be: (a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are designated Silica Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). (b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are designated Silica Dimethyl Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995).

[0400] Silica powders other than silica aerogels include, in particular: - porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company ASAHI GLASS; - amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name SA SUNSPHERE® H 33®, SA SUNSPHERE® H53® by the company AGC SITECH; - precipitated silica microspheres for example coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene and notably sold under the name ACEMATT OK 412® by the company EVONIK DEGUSSA.

[0401] As silica powder, porous silica microspheres such as those sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700® by the company MYOSHI; SUNSPHERE® H51, SUNSPHERE® H33 by the company AGC SITECH will be used in particular.

[0402] Silica particles other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0403] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention shall comprise a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles such as those described above and other silica particles such as those described above, in particular porous silica microspheres. Additional coloring agents

[0404] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0405] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly depending on the intensity of the color effect sought and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

[0406] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.

[0407] By water-soluble colouring material, in the sense of the invention, is understood any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0408] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants may be cited, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0409] Water-soluble colorings include, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0410] By liposoluble colouring material, in the sense of the invention, is understood any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat body and capable of colouring.

[0411] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as fat-soluble colorants, synthetic or natural such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. cosmetic compositions

[0412] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0413] By physiologically acceptable medium, we mean a medium particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin.

[0414] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged. Applications

[0415] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin, body or face care composition, in particular a face care composition.

[0416] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0417] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a basic composition for makeup.

[0418] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

[0419] According to another sub-equation of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin makeup composition, particularly for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0420] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0421] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "containing one" shall be understood as synonymous with "containing at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0422] Expressions between ... and ... and from ... to ... shall be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

[0423] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as mass percentages.

[0424] Examples 1 and 2 (invention) and example la* (non-invention)

[0425] Compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention and compositions 1a and 1b were prepared outside of invention.

[0426] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredients Exl Ex2 la* 1b* Al DIMETHICONE (and) PE G / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHIC ONE (25% by weight of active ingredient) 10.0 (2.5% by weight of active ingredient) 10.0 (2.5% by weight of active ingredient) 10.0 (2.5% by weight of active ingredient) 10.0 (2.5% by weight of active ingredient) (X-22-6711D® - SHINE TSU) ISODODECANE 3,7 3,7 3,7 3,7 PEG-10 DIMETHICONE (KF-6017®- SHIN ETSU) 0,65 0,65 0,65 0,65 A2 TRIMETHYLSILOXYS ILICATE AND ISODOD ECANE (75% en poids de matière active) (SILSOFT 74® - MOME NTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 6,0 6,0 6,0 6,0 A3 DIMETHICONE (and) P OLYSILICONE-11 (16% en poids de matière activ e) (GRANSIL DMG-6® - G RANT INDUSTRIES) 7,9 7,9 7,9 7,9 A4 SILICA (SUNSPHERE H 51®- A GC SLTECH) 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 SILICA SILYLATE (DOW CORNING VM-2 270® AEROGEL FINE P ARTICLES - DOW COR NING) 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 B1 WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 GLYCERIN 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3,5 3,5 3,5 3,5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZ OLE SULFONIC ACID 2,70 2,70 2,70 2,70 (EUSOLEX 232®- MER CK) SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 NIACINAMIDE 2.0 0.11 - 2.0 C PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAP RATE - - - 15.27 DIMETHICONE (DOWSIL SH 200® C FL UID 5 CST DOW CORN ING) 15.27 15.27 15.27 - D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 *excluding invention Protocol for preparing compositions:

[0427] a. Preparation of the aqueous phase: #

[0428] All the ingredients of phase B1 were weighed and the mixture was stirred in a Rayneri (deflocculator). The pH was adjusted with sodium hydroxide and the amount of lost water was added. a. Preparation of the oil phase: #

[0429] The non-volatile dimethicone from phase C was weighed, followed by the isododecane and surfactants from phase A1, which were mixed under a Moritz mixer (rotor / stator) for 5 minutes, adjusting the speed to create a vortex. The mixture was then placed in an ice water bath. The silicone elastomer from phase A3 was weighed and mixed for 15 minutes, adjusting the speed to maintain a vortex. The film-forming polymer from phase A3 and the fillers from phase A4 were then weighed. It is possible to pre-disperse DOW CORNING VM-2270® AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES - DOW CORNING in isododecane to facilitate application. The mixtures were then combined for 15 minutes, adjusting the speed to maintain a vortex. a. Emulsification#

[0430] The emulsion was carried out under Moritz conditions and always under an ice bath by introducing the aqueous phase into the oil phase. It was left for 20 minutes at a speed of 1300 rpm (gradually increasing / vortex).

[0431] Alcohol was then added under Rayneri and allowed to disperse for 5 min while maintaining the temperature below 40°C. Haze measurements

[0432] Examples 1 and 2 of the invention with niacinamide and counterexamples 1a and 1b were subjected to HAZE performance measurements after spreading into films, according to the following protocol: a. Spreading Protocol#

[0433] Each composition to be tested was spread using an automatic spreader into a 25 sq m thick film on a transparent polyester sheet. The resulting deposit was left for 1 hour at room temperature (25°C). a. Haze measurement protocol#

[0434] HAZE measurements were carried out using HAZE GARDE® equipment (HAZE GARD PLUS BRANT INDUSTRIE SARL - BYK_GARDNER).

[0435] The laser was switched on 1 hour before the measurements. After a calibration phase of The device placed the film, which had been dried for one hour, in the path of the laser. Haze measurements were automatically performed by the device.

[0436] Three spreads of each composition were prepared, and 10 HAZE measurements were taken per composition to determine a mean HAZE value and a standard deviation. The results are shown in the table below. Stability tests

[0437] Examples 1 and 1b were introduced at a dose of 20g into a glass pillbox. Each pillbox was placed for 10 days in a HERAEUS VOETSCH® type cycle incubator. Every 24 hours, each pillbox underwent the following four 6-hour temperature cycles: 6 hours at +20°C 6 hours of gradual temperature drop from 20°C to -20°C 6 hours at -20°C 6 hours of gradual temperature rise from -20°C to +20°C

[0438] After ten days, the appearance of each specimen was observed 1 and 1b i) macroscopically with the naked eye; and ii) microscopically with the LEICA DM2500® microscope at X10 magnification. The results obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3 below.

[0439] [Tables2] Measurements of EXAMPLE 1 EXAMPLE 2 EXAMPLE EXAMPLE Haze (invention) (invention) (excluding invention) 1b 2%NIACINAM 0.ll%NIACINAMI 0%NIACINAMID (excluding invent IDE DE E ion) 15.27% DIME 15.27% DIMETHIC 15.27% DIMETHI 2%NIACIN THICONE 5cst ONE CONE 5cst AMIDE 5cst 15.27% PRO PYLENE GL YCOL DICA PRYLATE / D ICAPRATE AVERAGE over 3 trials 63.20 54.90 47.83 35.61 STDEV PE over 3 trials 0.29 0.91 0.87 0.11

[0440] Haze tests showed that Examples 1 and 2 according to the invention, comprising niacinamide, isododecane and volatile dimethicone (5cst), produced better blurring of imperfections compared to - for example, the off-invention product of identical composition but without niacinamide - to example 1b outside the invention of identical composition but comprising, at the same concentration, a non-volatile ester oil PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE instead of volatile dimethicone (5cst).

[0441] [Tables3] Oven stability cycle -20 to +20°C after 10 days EXAMPLE 1 (invention) 2% NIACINAMIDE 15.27% DIMETHICONE 5cst EXAMPLE 1b (not part of the invention) 2% NIACINAMIDE 15.27% PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE Macroscopic appearance Stable homogeneous Slightly glossy surface Microscopic appearance Stable Homogeneous and regular base, sharp edges Fragile emulsion with less homogeneous base, slightly loose edges and small visible crystals

[0442] The 10-day storage stability tests showed that Example 1 according to the invention comprising niacinamide, isododecane and a volatile dimethicone (5cst) remained stable and homogeneous unlike Example 1b.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid group and / or at least one water-soluble organic UV filter comprising at least one benzoxazole sulfonic acid group, and c) at least one organic or inorganic base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said water-soluble organic UV filter(s);and d) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and e) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxanes of HLB < 8.0, and f) at least one vitamin B3; where vitamin B3 is present in active ingredient concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition not containing non-volatile ester oil.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils are chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin, in particular the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

3. Composition according to claim 1, where the volatile silicone oil or oils are chosen from linear silicone oils with a viscosity ranging from 106 to 8.106 m2 / s, in particular chosen from octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil, in particular a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total concentration in oily phase varies from 20 to 95% by weight, and more particularly varies from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile oil or oils are present at concentrations ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 12 to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase is present in a concentration of at least 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 30 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 35 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble UV filter is chosen from Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3 ',5,5' -tetrasulfonic acid, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the water-soluble UV filter(s) are present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the organic base is selected from amino acids; alkanolamines; and mixtures thereof.

11. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the inorganic base is selected from alkali metal cation bases and alkaline earth metal cation bases, and more particularly is sodium hydroxide.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is chosen from: - silicone resins; - block ethylenic copolymers; - vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer; - silicone acrylate copolymers; - their mixtures; and more particularly chosen from a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 7% by weight of active material of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactants correspond to the following formula (I): CH, CH, CH3 CH, । H n 1 R1—SiO----B'?]--S---R3 CH. CH. R2 CH, (I) in which: R1, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a Cr-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH 2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one Rh radical R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being hydrogen, a Cr-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer from 0 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 30; z is an integer from 0 to 30.

15. Composition according to claim 14, where the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactants of formula (I) are chosen from those for which Ri = R3 = methyl radical, x = 0 to 3, R4 is hydrogen.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant is chosen from - PEG / PPG-8 / 8 Dimethicone; - PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone; - the mixture Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone; - the mixture Cyclotetrasiloxane and Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone; - the mixture Dimethicone and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone - the mixture PEG / PPG-19 / 19 Dimethicone and C13-C16 Isoparaffin and C10-C13 Isoparaffin; - PEG-3 Dimethicone; - PEG-10 Dimethicone; - their mixtures.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, preferably in association with a silicone oil, and more particularly a silicone oil of the dimethicone type.

18. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone and PEG-10 Dimethicone, preferably a mixture of PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, dimethicone and PEG-10 Dimethicone.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the vitamin B3 is niacinamide.

21. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein vitamin B3 is present in active ingredient concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pigment; preferably chosen from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular by an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular by a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

23. Composition according to claim 19, comprising at least 5% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 10 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer; preferably in the form of a gel carried in at least one silicone oil, in particular a linear silicone oil of the dimethicone type.

25. Composition according to claim 24, comprising a content of non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer active material, varying from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising silica particles selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, silica particles different from the preceding ones, and mixtures thereof.

27. ​​Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a foundation.