Composition including cysteine, a specific fatty acid triglyceride, and an additional reducing agent

Abstract

Composition comprising cysteine, a specific fatty acid triglyceride, and an additional reducing agent. The present invention relates to a composition useful for styling and / or conditioning keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives, a specific fatty acid triglyceride, and optionally an additional reducing agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for styling and / or conditioning keratin fibers using such a composition. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising cysteine, a particular fatty acid triglyceride and an additional reducing agent

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition useful for styling and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives, a particular fatty acid triglyceride and optionally an additional reducing agent.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for styling and / or conditioning keratin fibers using such a composition.

[0003] Many people are dissatisfied with the appearance of their hair and have difficulty styling it. Curly hair is particularly difficult to comb and detangle, requiring a lot of time and effort for a result that is most often disappointing.

[0004] Furthermore, hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, but also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening. Hair is therefore damaged by these various factors and can, over time, become dry, rough or dull, particularly in fragile areas.

[0005] Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to use care compositions that condition the hair appropriately, giving it satisfactory conditioning properties, particularly in terms of softness, shine, suppleness, lightness, natural feel and good detangling properties.

[0006] These hair compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or more or less thick conditioning creams. These compositions may be rinse-off or leave-in compositions.

[0007] These compositions generally comprise a combination of cationic conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and / or fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, in order to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of softness, smooth appearance and suppleness.

[0008] However, these conditioning agents, and in particular fatty alcohols, present Often, the downside is that it makes hair very limp and heavy, leading to the phenomenon commonly known as the "dull effect." In other words, fatty alcohols are deposited in large quantities on the hair, resulting in it feeling limp, greasy, and dull.

[0009] However, the elimination or reduction of these fats diminishes the conditioning effects, and therefore the conditioning properties of the hair.

[0010] Most of these compositions also include silicones. Indeed, these compounds are known to improve the cosmetic properties of hair, particularly in terms of softness and suppleness (as shown in JP 48(1973)-19941, JP 56(1986)-92808, and US 5 374 421). However, several drawbacks remain. For example, hair treated with these compositions remains limp and sticky, and may be difficult to style.

[0011] There is therefore a real need to develop compositions which do not have the disadvantages described above, that is to say which are capable of improving the conditioning properties of hair, in particular in terms of combability when dry and when wet, suppleness, softness, manageability and shine, without overloading the hair, or causing a greasy feeling or appearance.

[0012] The compositions also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of hair, especially curly to frizzy hair, while reducing knots and preventing breakage or damage to the fibers.

[0013] It has now been discovered that a composition comprising cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives in combination with a specific fatty acid triglyceride achieves the objectives described above. In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a combination is easier to comb and detangle and exhibits improved conditioning properties, especially in terms of softness, suppleness, and shine. The hair is also easier to style and exhibits less breakage. These benefits are also long-lasting.

[0014] Thus, the object of the invention is, in particular, a composition comprising:

[0015] (i) of cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N- alcanoylcysteine ​​and alkyl esters of cysteine ​​and salts thereof,

[0016] (ii) one or more fatty acid triglycerides containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms in a total amount greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0017] (iii) optionally one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) in a total quantity less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0018] the pH of said composition ranging from 7.5 to 10.

[0019] The composition of the present invention is suitable for improving the properties of conditioning function of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, especially in terms of shine, softness, smooth appearance and suppleness while giving the hair good combability both dry and wet, as well as improved manageability.

[0020] Hair, especially curly hair, treated with the composition of the present invention is easier to style and allows the consumer to obtain the desired hairstyle.

[0021] The composition of the present invention also respects the integrity of the fibers and provides a better moisturizing effect. The hair is also healthier and stronger, making it more resistant to combing and detangling.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for styling and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined above, and after an optional application time, optionally removing it by rinsing.

[0023] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.

[0024] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".

[0025] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". (i) Cysteine

[0026] The composition according to the present invention comprises cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine ​​and alkyl esters of cysteine ​​and salts thereof.

[0027] The total amount of cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine ​​and alkyl esters of cysteine, present in the composition according to the present invention, is preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably this total amount is from 0.05 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (ii) Fatty acid triglyceride

[0028] The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0029] The useful fatty acid triglyceride(s) according to the present invention may be derived from triglycerides of vegetable origin, such as vegetable oils, or from tri- glycerides of synthetic origin.

[0030] Preferably, the fatty acid triglyceride(s) contains from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0031] Preferably, the vegetable oils usable according to the invention comprise more than 50% by weight of fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14, more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0032] Advantageously, the fatty acid triglyceride(s) is / are selected from coconut oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, palm kernel oil, babassu oil, cuphea oil and mixtures thereof.

[0033] The total amount of fatty acid triglyceride(s) (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms present in the composition according to the present invention is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total amount of fatty acid triglyceride(s) (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms ranges from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The weight ratio (R) between the total quantity of fatty acid triglyceride(s) (ii) containing 6 to 16 and the total quantity of cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i), present in the composition according to the present invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1. More preferably, this weight ratio (R) is from 1 to 20, and even better from 2 to 15. (iii) Additional reducing agents

[0035] The composition according to the present invention optionally comprises one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) in a total quantity less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other words, the total quantity of the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i), when present in the composition of the invention, is less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i).

[0037] Additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) are preferably chosen from thiol reducing agents, other than cysteine ​​or its derivatives (i), non-thiol reducing agents and mixtures thereof.

[0038] The term “thiol reducing agent” refers to a reducing agent containing at least one thiol group. Examples of thiol reducing agent(s) other than cysteine ​​or its derivatives (i) include thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, including esters thereof such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and derivatives thereof, including esters thereof such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and derivatives thereof, including esters thereof such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and derivatives thereof, including C1-C4 acylated derivatives thereof such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and derivatives thereof, including its esters; and salts thereof.

[0039] The expression "non-thiol reducing agent" refers to a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. Examples of non-thiol reducing agent(s) include sulfites, sulfite derivatives, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, dihydroxybenzene derivatives, reductones, hydrides, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives, EDTA, panthenol, selenium sulfide, zinc formosulfoxylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) are preferably chosen from non-thiol reducing agents and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sulfites, sulfite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0041] The term "sulfite derivatives" essentially refers to bisulfites and sulfite diesters of formula RO-SO2-R', R and R' representing alkyl groups in Ci-CiO.

[0042] The term "ascorbic acid derivatives" essentially refers to erythorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0043] The tocopherols that can be used in the present invention include, for example, alpha tocopherol, beta tocopherol, gamma tocopherol and delta tocopherol, while the term "tocopherol derivatives" essentially refers to tocopherol esters, such as tocopherol acetate.

[0044] Additional reducing agents (iii) may be used in particular in the form of salts, especially salts of alkali metals such as sodium and potassium salts, salts of alkaline earth metals, for example magnesium and calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and amino alcohol salts.

[0045] In a particularly preferred manner, the additional reducing agents (iii), other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i), are selected from alkali metal sulfites, alkali metal bisulfites, precursors of such sulfites or bisulfites, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional reducing agents (iii) are selected from sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the reducing agents ad Additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) are selected from sulfites, sulfite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional reducing agents (iii) according to this embodiment consist of a mixture of at least two distinct non-thiol reducing agents, in which preferably:

[0047] - at least one is selected from sulfites, sulfite derivatives and mixtures thereof more preferably among alkali metal sulfites, alkali metal bisulfites, precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites, and mixtures thereof, and better still among sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and mixtures thereof, and

[0048] - the other is chosen from ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, and mixtures of these, and more preferably among ascorbic acid, alpha-to-copherol, tocopheryl acetate, erythorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and mixtures of these.

[0049] The total quantity of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i), when present in the composition according to the invention, is less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) are selected from sulfites, sulfite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, and the total amount of sulfites, sulfite derivatives, ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives present in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] The weight ratio (Ra) between the total quantity of cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) and the total quantity of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i), when present in the composition according to the present invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1. More preferably, this weight ratio (Ra) goes from 1 to 15, and even better from 2 to 10. Additional fats

[0052] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional fatty substances, different from the fatty acid triglycerides (ii) previously described.

[0053] By "fatty substance", we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at temperature At ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%), they contain in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0054] Preferably, the fats of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid group (-C(O)OH or -C(O)O). In particular, the fats of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylated nor polyglycerolized.

[0055] The term "non-siliconized fat" refers to a fat containing no silicon (Si) atoms and the term "siliconized fat" refers to a fat containing at least one silicon atom.

[0056] More particularly, the additional fatty substance(s), other than the fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, are chosen from C6 to Ci6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized animal oils, triglycerides other than the fatty acid triglycerides (ii) previously described, fluorinated oils, non-polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, vegetable waxes, non-siliconized waxes, silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0057] It is recalled that, within the scope of the invention, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0058] With regard to C6 to Ci6 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, dodecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

[0059] One hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

[0060] The triglyceride other than the fatty acid triglyceride (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably selected from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 18 to 30 carbon atoms, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, oil of castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably selected from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

[0062] Fluorinated oils may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or alternatively bromo-perfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoro-romethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoro-morpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0063] The non-polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols that can be used in the composition according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol may be included.

[0064] The wax(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is (are) in particular chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by the Bertin company (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as the product sold by the Sophim company under reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0065] With regard to esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of mono or polyaliphatic acids in C1 to C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of mono or polyaliphatic alcohols in C1 to C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbons of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.

[0066] Among the monoesters, we can mention dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci2-Ci5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (Iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyle stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0067] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22, as well as esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxyalcohols in C2 to C26-

[0068] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0069] Among the esters mentioned above, ethyl, isopropyl, myristyle, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate are preferably used.

[0070] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range and preferably in the C2 to C22 range. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds that have several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and that include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0071] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0072] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C6 to C30 and preferably in C12 to C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0073] Esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates or arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed oleate / palmitate, oleate / stearate or palmitate / stearate esters.

[0075] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate / palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate / stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0076] One can cite, as an example, the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0077] Examples of fatty acid sugar esters or ester mixtures that may also be mentioned include:

[0078] - the products sold under the names F160, F140, Fl 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the Crodesta company, designating respectively sucrose palmitates / stearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% di- and triester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, and 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

[0079] - products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed of 20% monoester and 80% diester, triester and polyester;

[0080] - sucrose monodipalmitate / stearate sold by the Goldschmidt company under the name of Tegosoft® PSE.

[0081] The silicones usable according to the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

[0082] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes including at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

[0083] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter Noll "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0084] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0085] (I) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures of these.

[0086] We can also mention dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: r»» p ' P '' O CH, CH 3 D”: with OR GH, G SH

[0087] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0088] (ii) Volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pages 27 to 32, Todd & Byers, “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

[0089] Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof are used.

[0090] These silicones are more particularly selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0091] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following may be cited, without limitation: the products following commercial agents:

[0092] - Silbione oils of series 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000,

[0093] - the Mirasil® series oils sold by the Rhodia company;

[0094] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200, of which the viscosity is 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0095] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of the General Electric company.

[0096] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups called dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the Rhodia 48 series.

[0097] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydialkyl (in C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0098] The silicone gums usable according to the invention are, in particular, polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights, between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0099] Products that can be used more particularly according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0100] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane ending in hydroxy or dime thiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also called cyclo-methicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;

[0101] - mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such that the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to de-camethylcyclopentasiloxane;

[0102] - mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as General Electric's SF 1236. SF 1236 is a mixture of SE 30 gum, as defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m² / s, and SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 x 0.06 m² / s. This product preferably includes 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.

[0103] The organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the invention are cross-linked siloxane systems containing the following motifs:

[0104] R2S1O2 / 2, RjSiOi / 2, RS1O3 / 2 and S1O4 / 2,

[0105] in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R designates a lower alkyl group in C1-C4, more particularly the methyl.

[0106] Among these resins, we can mention the product marketed under the name Dow Corning 593 or those marketed under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure silicones.

[0107] We can also mention trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins, sold in particular under the references X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by Shin-Etsu.

[0108] The organo-modified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organo-functional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.

[0109] Organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0110] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are in particular selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1x105 to 5x102 m2 / s at 25 °C.

[0111] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products sold under the following names:

[0112] - Rhodia's Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series;

[0113] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0114] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0115] - Bayer's PK series silicones, such as product PK20;

[0116] - Bayer's PN and PH series silicones, such as the PN1000 and PH1000;

[0117] - certain oils in the General Electric SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0118] Among organomodified silicones, we can also mention polyorganosiloxanes including:

[0119] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as products sold under the names of GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups include C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0120] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.

[0121] Silicones that can be used in the composition of the present invention They can also be chosen from among the amino silicones.

[0122] The term “amino silicone” means any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0123] The weight-average molecular masses of these amine silicones can be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GC) at room temperature (25 °C), in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are Styragel p columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 mL / min. 200 pL of a 0.5% wt% silicone solution in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.

[0124] Throughout the following text, the term "silicone" is intended to designate, according to general understanding, any linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked organosilicon polymer or oligomer of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially formed of a repetition of principal units in which silicon atoms are linked together with oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups being directly linked by a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, in particular alkyl groups in the form of Ci-Cio and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl groups whose alkyl portion is in the form of Ci-Cio, and aryl groups and especially phenyl.

[0125] Suitable amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched amino silicones, with a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 °C, for example from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0126] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) is / are chosen from:

[0127] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0128] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5,000 and 500,000 g / mol;

[0129] b) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II):

[0130] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0131] in which:

[0132] - G, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in CrC8, for example methyl, or alkoxy in CrC8, for example methoxy,

[0133] - a and a', identical or different, represent 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a and a' is equal to zero,

[0134] - b represents 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0135] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1,999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0136] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quantized amino group chosen from the following groups:

[0137] -NR”-QN(R”)2,

[0138] -N(R”)2,

[0139] -N+(R”)3A,

[0140] -N+H(R”)2A,

[0141] -N+H2(R”)A,

[0142] -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A,

[0143] -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and

[0144] -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A,

[0145] wherein R”, identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical in CrC2o; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide.

[0146] According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones called "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (III):

[0147] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0148] According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones of formula (IV) below:

[0149] in which:

[0150] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0151] - Rb R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designates an alkoxy radical.

[0152] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0153] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and is more particularly equal to 0.3:1.

[0154] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly between 3,500 and 200,000 g / mol.

[0155] According to a third embodiment, amino silicones meeting the formula (II) are selected from the following formula silicones (V):

[0156] in which:

[0157] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0158] - Ri and R2, which are different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxyl or alkoxy radical, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0159] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0160] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0161] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 200,000 g / mol, more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000 g / mol and in particular from 10,000 to 50,000 g / mol.

[0162] Commercial products comprising structural silicones (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V).

[0163] A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is sold by the Wacker company under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

[0164] A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0165] When using these amino silicones, a particularly advantageous embodiment is to use them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion will typically from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

[0166] According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones of formula (VI) below:

[0167] in which:

[0168] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, where n represents a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m represents a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0169] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 atoms of carbon and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0170] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amine silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000 g / mol.

[0171] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Dow Corning's Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion.

[0172] According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are selected from the following silicones of formula (VII):

[0173]

[0174]

[0175]

[0176]

[0177]

[0178] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched. The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone that corresponds to this formula is, for example, Dow Corning's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid; c) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0179]

[0180]

[0181]

[0182] in which - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8 or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8, linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate;

[0183] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; And

[0184] - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

[0185] Such amino silicones are described in particular in US patent 4,185,087.

[0186] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

[0187] in which:

[0188] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0189] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0190] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical hy monovalent drocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl substituent in C2-Ci8 or an -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0191] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0192] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0193] Such amino silicones are described in particular in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

[0194] e) Amino silicones of formula (X):

[0195] in which:

[0196] - Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0197] - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0198] - n is an integer from 1 to 5,

[0199] - m is an integer from 1 to 5, and

[0200] - x is chosen such that the amine index ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0201] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylated amine silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylated block including at least one amine group.

[0202] Said silicones are preferably formed of repeating units having the following general formulas:

[0203] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]

[0204] or alternatively

[0205] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0206] in which:

[0207] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0208] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100 and more specifically between 5 and 30;

[0209] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000 and more particularly from 10 to 5,000;

[0210] - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0211] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R denotes a CH2CH2 CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0212] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-C i2, linear or branched, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-,

[0213] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0214] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0215] The average molecular weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000 g / mol.

[0216] We can notably cite silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0217] g) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): ÇH., [ | Ç* [ r—to—b—to | | og, œ. ch> | | 4 I tCMX t ______ï nh, pa>

[0218] in which:

[0219] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0220] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0221] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5,000 and 500,000 LH (XII)

[0222] in which:

[0223] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2,000 and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably, it goes from 1 to 100;

[0224] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group linear or branched alkyl, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0225] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 2 to 8 atoms of carbon.

[0226] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.

[0227] The following divalent groups can be cited in particular:

[0228] -CH2CH2CH2- and CH2CH(CH3)CH2-,

[0229] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, Ri and R2, whether identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0230] The amine silicone(s) is / are preferably of formula (XII) with:

[0231] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000 and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0232] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0233] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; of Preferably, A is branched; more specifically, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0234] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0235] A preferred silicone formula (XII) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. An example is the amine silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive.

[0236] h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XIV)

[0237] or (XV)

[0238] or J] .--JJ -to— 0 ô ---^-- If (xvi)

[0239] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amine silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.

[0240] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV) include the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu.

[0241] In formula (XV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amine silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0242] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XV) include the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0243] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amine silicone is between 500 and 50,000.

[0244] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0245] i) and mixtures thereof.

[0246] Preferably the amine silicone(s) is / are chosen from amine silicones of formulas (II), (XII) and (XVI) and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from amine silicones of formula (XII), and mixtures thereof, and even better the amine silicone (b) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.

[0247] Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s), other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, is / are selected from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, triglyceride-type vegetable oils other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii), amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0248] The total amount of additional fat(s), other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, when present in the composition according to the invention, is preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] The total quantity of fat (i.e., the sum of the total quantity of fatty acid triglyceride(s) (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms and the quantity total of optional additional fat(s)), present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] The weight ratio (Rb) between the total quantity of the additional fat(s), other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and the total quantity of fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, and even better greater than or equal to 2. Cationic surfactants

[0251] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0252] By "cationic surfactant" is meant a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups in the composition according to the invention.

[0253] The cationic surfactant(s) is / are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0254] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8 to C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0255] The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition of the present invention are preferably chosen from the following quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof:

[0256] - quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (XVII) below- below: (XVII)

[0257] wherein the groups R28 to R3[, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R28 to R3[ designating a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. The aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from alkyl groups in C1 to C30, alkoxy groups in C1 to C30, polyoxyalkylene (in C2 to C6), alkylamide groups in C1 to C30, alkyl (in C12 to C22), and amidoalkyl groups (in C2 to C6), alkyl acetate (C12 to C22), hydroxyalkyl (C1 to C30); X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C1 to C4) sulfates and alkyl (C1 to C4)- or alkyl (C1 to C4) arylsulfonates.

[0258] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XVII), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium salts, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distea-ryldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyle acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the Van Dyk company. In particular, it is preferable to use the chloride salts of these compounds;

[0259] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (XVIII) below: + (XVIII) ^.€H2CH2--N(R.SS

[0260] in which:

[0261] - R32 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, for example, derivatives of tallow fatty acids,

[0262] - R33 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a group alkenyl or alkyl comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0263] - R34 represents an alkyl group in C4,

[0264] - R35 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in C1 to C4,

[0265] - X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates and alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates, whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0266] Preferably, R32 and R33 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example, tallow fatty acid derivatives, R34 denotes a methyl group, and R35 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

[0267] - di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (XIX): rn « (XIX) R. v R.^

[0268] in which:

[0269] - R36 designates an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 atoms of carbon, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms;

[0270] - R37 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a group (R36a)(R37a)(R38a)N-(CH2)3,

[0271] - R36a, R37a, R38a, R38, R39, R40 and R41, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0272] - X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.

[0273] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 75);

[0274] - quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those with formula (XX) below: O (XX) he K X- —C:—(OC^ —N:-R^ R^

[0275] in which:

[0276] - R42 is selected from the alkyl groups in C1 to C6 and the hydroxyalkyl groups or dihydroxyalkyl in C1 to C6;

[0277] - R43 is chosen from:

[0278] - the Q group

[0279] - the R47 groups, which are linear hydrocarbon groups in C1 to C22 or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

[0280] - a hydrogen atom;

[0281] - R45 is chosen from:

[0282] - the O group C--

[0283] - the R49 groups, which are linear C1 to C6 hydrocarbon groups or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

[0284] - a hydrogen atom;

[0285] - R44, R46 and R48, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hydrocarbon groups in C7 to C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0286] - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0287] - y is an integer from 1 to 10;

[0288] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 at 10;

[0289] - X is a simple or complex anion and organic or inorganic;

[0290] provided that the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 15, that when x is 0 then R43 designates R47, and when z is 0 then R45 designates R49.

[0291] The R42 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0292] Preferably, R42 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0293] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z goes from 1 to 10.

[0294] When R4Î is an R47 hydrocarbon group, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0295] When R45 is an R49 hydrocarbon group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0296] Advantageously, R44, R46 and R48, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cn to C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from among the alkyl and alkenyl groups in Ci 1 to C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0297] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0298] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0299] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and more particularly are equal to 2.

[0300] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function may be used.

[0301] Anion X is more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0302] Ammonium salts of formula (XX) are used more particularly in the tint composition according to the invention, in which:

[0303] R42 designates a methyl or ethyl group;

[0304] x and y are equal to 1;

[0305] z is equal to 0 or 1;

[0306] r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0307] R43 is selected from:

[0308] - the Q group C—

[0309] - methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in CM to C22,

[0310] - a hydrogen atom;

[0311] R45 is chosen from:

[0312] - the Q group C—

[0313] - a hydrogen atom;

[0314] R44, R46 and R48, identical or different, are chosen from the hydrocarbon groups in C13 to C17, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably among the alkyl and alkenyl groups in Cn to Cp, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.

[0315] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0316] Examples that may be mentioned include compounds of formula (XX) such as salts of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained most particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0317] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated, with C10 to C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10 to C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0318] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

[0319] Among these compounds, we can notably mention dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate.

[0320] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

[0321] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, as described in US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180 patents, can also be used.

[0322] Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0323] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0324] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, which can be used, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl-lammonium salts are preferred.

[0325] The cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from those of formula (XVII) and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.

[0326] The total quantity of the cationic surfactant(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] The weight ratio (Rc) between the total quantity of fatty acid triglycerides (ii) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms and the total quantity of ca-tionic surfactant(s), when it is (are) present in the composition according to the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably this weight ratio (Rc) goes from 1 to 10, and even better from 1 to 5. Organic solvents

[0328] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0329] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is / are chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and more preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, polyols, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0330] Examples of usable organic solvents according to the invention, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

[0331] The total quantity of organic solvent(s), when present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.005 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0332] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise water.

[0333] The total quantity of water, which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 50 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 55 to 95% by weight, and even better from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0334] The composition according to the present invention may further include one or more additives other than the compounds of the invention.

[0335] As additives that can be used according to the invention, we can mention anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic, amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic polymers, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents to prevent hair loss and / or to promote hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins other than tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives.

[0336] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select these additional (optional) compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition(s).

[0337] The aforementioned additives can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0338] The pH of the composition according to the invention ranges from 7.5 to 10, preferably from 8 to 9.5, more preferably from 8.5 to 9.

[0339] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of commonly used alkalizing or acidifying agents. Examples of alkalizing agents are ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Acidifying agents include, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, and carboxylic acids such as than acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulfonic acids.

[0340] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises one or more alkaline agents.

[0341] Among the alkaline agents that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of aqueous ammonia, (bi)carbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or guanidine, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, silicates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, hydroxides of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and compounds of the following formula (XXI): zR? / XXI) N WN r / X

[0342] formula (XXI) wherein W is a linear or branched alkylene (Ci-C6) group, in particular propylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R6, R7, R8 and R9, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical or a Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0343] The organic alkali-sealing agent(s) is / are preferably chosen from among organic amines having a pKb at 25 °C less than 12, preferably less than 10, and more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the functional group with the highest basicity. Furthermore, the organic amines do not contain an alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0344] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) is / are selected from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine or ethanolamine, carbonates, in particular guanidine carbonate, silicates, in particular sodium silicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0345] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for styling and / or conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined above, and after an optional application time, optionally removing it by rinsing.

[0346] The composition can be used as a leave-on product.

[0347] After an optional application time, the composition can preferably be removed by rinsing with water. The fibres can then be dried or left to dry.

[0348] In general, the exposure time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from a few seconds to 12 hours, preferably from 5 seconds to 60 minutes and better still from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, or better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

[0349] The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers, preferably to wet keratinous fibers.

[0350] The composition according to the invention is generally applied to dry keratinous materials which have optionally been washed with shampoo.

[0351] In the present invention, the term "keratinous fibers" refers to human keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair.

[0352] The following example serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES

[0353] In the following example and unless otherwise indicated, quantities are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition. I. Risk of breakage during combing

[0354] a. Compositions

[0355] The following compositions Al (invention) and B1 and B2 (comparatives) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of active ingredient (AI)):

[0356] [Tables] Al (invention) B1 (comparative) B2 (comparative) Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 5 - 5 Cysteine ​​HCl 0.75 0.75 - Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 5 Isononyl isononanoate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride (VARISOFT BT 85 - EVONIK) 3.95 3.95 3.95 Cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters (CRODAMOL MS-PA-(MH) -CRODA) 2.5 2.5 2.5 Prunus armeniana (apricot) seed powder 0.25 0.25 0.25 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (SILSOFT AX-E PMF- MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.4 0.4 0.4 Ethanolamine 0.53 0.53 0.53 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.4 0.4 0.4 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1 0.1 Perfume 1 1 1 pH Adjuster Qs pH 8.8 Qs pH 8.8 Qs pH 8.8 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100

[0357] pH of the formula = 8.8.

[0358] b. Protocol

[0359] In this mechanical evaluation method, the hair fibers are subjected to repeated low-amplitude extension cycles until the fiber breaks or the maximum number of cycles set by the operator is reached. At the end of the fatigue test, the fiber lifetime is measured. It corresponds to the number of cycles of extension that the fiber was able to withstand without breaking.

[0360] The tensile mechanical stress applied to the fiber can be a constant strain, a constant force, or a constant stress. For this analysis, cyclic fatigue tests were performed at a constant stress of 144 MPa using a Diastron CYC 801 cyclic fatigue tester. Cross-sectional area measurements were taken using a fiber dimensional analysis system (FDAS, Diastron) and used to obtain a correct target stress.

[0361] The following protocol was used for each composition Al, B1 and B2 on multiethnic virgin hair (curl pattern 4-5) from the IHIP:

[0362] 1. Prepare a strand of hair of 1 g.

[0363] 2. Wash 1 g of hair with 0.4 g of Au Naturale shampoo (product commercial).

[0364] 3. Dry the sample with a towel

[0365] 4. Apply 4 g of each composition A1, B1 and B2 to 1 g of hair strand humid.

[0366] 5. Leave the treated hair on a heated plate at 31 degrees Celsius (for 15 minutes).

[0367] 6. Rinse off the treatment after 15 minutes

[0368] 7. Dry the hair with cool air, and

[0369] 8. Comb the hair (120 strokes of the comb)

[0370] Steps 2 to 8 of the above protocol were repeated 5 times (5 treatments and 600 comb strokes).

[0371] The following protocol was used as a control on multiethnic virgin hair (4-5 curl pattern) from the IHIP:

[0372] 1. Prepare a strand of hair of 1 g.

[0373] 2. Wash 1 g of hair with 0.4 g of Au Naturale shampoo.

[0374] 3. Dry the wick with a towel

[0375] 4. Dry the hair with cool air, and

[0376] 5. Comb the hair (120 strokes of the comb).

[0377] Steps 2 to 5 of the above control protocol were repeated 5 times (5 treatments and 600 comb strokes).

[0378] c. Results

[0379] The results thus obtained for each composition Al, B1 and B2 are expressed in Table 2 below. The higher the number of cycles before breakage, the more resistant the hair.

[0380] [Tables2] Al (invention) B1 (comparative) B2 (comparative) Control Average cycle before breakage 6560 5154 4249 4333

[0381] The results thus obtained show that the claimed composition Al, which comprises a combination of cysteine ​​with a specific fatty acid triglyceride, strengthens curly hair by increasing the average number of cycles before breakage. Indeed, the number of cycles before breakage is significantly higher when hair is treated with the claimed composition Al compared to the comparative compositions B1 and B2, which comprise either cysteine ​​or the specific fatty acid triglyceride alone.

[0382] Thus, the combination of cysteine ​​with at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms provides a synergistic effect regarding the strengthening of curly hair. II. Ease of combing

[0383] a. Compositions

[0384] Compositions A1 (invention) and B1 and B2 (comparatives) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 of Example I.

[0385] b. Protocol

[0386] The combing process measures the combing force of a strand on a Lloyd extensometer (Ametek Inc, USA). The lower the force, the easier it is to comb the hair.

[0387] A wide-tooth comb attachment, resembling a comb typically used for natural African hair, was used. The Afro comb had teeth spaced approximately 3 mm apart and was attached to the instrument's gantry as shown below. To perform the test, a sample (approximately 1 g) was inserted into the center of the comb, and the sample was attached to the sensor. The sample was moved by the gantry in a linear translation, and the comb forces were measured. This movement was repeated four times, and the average combing force was used to evaluate the effectiveness of the tested composition. The lower the force, the easier it was to comb the hair.

[0388] The following protocol was used for each composition Al, B1 and B2 on Curl pattern 7-8 hair from South Africa:

[0389] 1. Each 1 g strand of afro hair was washed with 0.4 g of shampoo. Naturale (commercial product) then rinsed.

[0390] 2. 1 g of each composition Al, B1 and B2 was applied to each gram of damp hair from step 1.

[0391] 3. Leave the treated hair on a heated plate at 31 degrees Celsius (for 15 minutes).

[0392] 4. The wick was then rinsed and left to dry for 24 hours at temperature ambient (±22 °C).

[0393] Steps 1 to 4 of the above protocol were repeated 5 times.

[0394] A similar protocol comprising only steps 1, 3 and 4 of the above protocol was used as a control.

[0395] At the end of the process, the hair strands were left to air dry for 24 hours and then characterized for combing strength using a Lloyd tensiometer.

[0396] c. Results

[0397] The results thus obtained for each composition Al, B1 and B2 are expressed in Table 3 below.

[0398] [Tables3] A1 (invention) B1 (comparative) B2 (comparative) Control Total work required to comb hair (average in Joules) 1472 2246 1917 2283

[0399] The results thus obtained show that the claimed composition Al, which comprises the combination of cysteine ​​with a particular fatty acid triglyceride, improves the manageability of very curly hair. Indeed, combing is significantly easier when hair is treated with the claimed composition Al compared to the comparative compositions B1 and B2 comprising either cysteine ​​or the particular fatty acid triglyceride alone.

[0400] Thus, the combination of cysteine ​​with at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms provides a synergistic effect regarding the ease of combing very curly hair. III. Hair strengthening

[0401] a. Composition

[0402] The following composition A2 (invention) was prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 4 below (% by weight of active ingredient (AI)):

[0403] [Tables4] A2 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 5 Cysteine ​​HCl 0.75 Cetearyl alcohol 5 Isononyl isononanoate 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride (VARISOFT BT 85 - EVONIK) 3.95 Cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters (CRODAMOL MS-PA-(MH) - CRODA) 2.5 Prunus armeniana (apricot) seed powder 0.25 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (SILSOFT AX-E PMF-MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.4 Ethanolamine 0.6 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.4 Tocopherol 0.1 Ascorbic acid 0.2 Sodium metabisulfite 0.2 Fragrance 1 pH adjuster Qs pH 8.8 Water Qs 100

[0404] pH of the formula = 8.8.

[0405] b. Protocol

[0406] In this mechanical evaluation method, the effect of a formula on reducing breakage of textured hair fibers is measured by a repeated wet grooming technique. To evaluate breakage, the method consists of holding the curl in one hand over a sheet of paper and then combing it 100 times with a tail comb. The comb strokes must be rapid and pass quickly over the entire length of the curl; otherwise, the The comb gets stuck in the hair.

[0407] Every 20 strokes of the comb, spray a mist of water on the hair to prevent the curl from drying out (at a distance of 15.25 cm (6 inches), spray a mist of water 3x on each side of the curl).

[0408] The broken fibres on the sheet of paper and in the comb are then counted. The average control breakage must not be less than 50 fibres.

[0409] The following protocol was used for composition A2 on virgin Afro hair (Curl pattern 7-8) from Tsebo Technical Services (South Africa):

[0410] 1. Prepare a strand of hair of 0.25 g.

[0411] 2. Wash 0.25 g of hair with 0.1 g of “Dark&Lovely 3inl” shampoo (commercial product).

[0412] 3. Dry the sample with a towel

[0413] 4. Apply 1 g of composition A2 to 0.25 g of wet hair strand.

[0414] 5. Leave the treated hair on a heated plate at 31 degrees Celsius (for 15 minutes).

[0415] 6. Rinse off the treatment after 15 minutes

[0416] 7. Dry the sample with a towel and ensure that the sample is damp (without being wet).

[0417] 8. Perform repeated wet washing

[0418] Steps 2 to 8 of the above protocol were repeated 5 times (5 treatments).

[0419] A similar protocol comprising only steps 1, 2, 3 and 8 of the above protocol was used as a control.

[0420] c. Results

[0421] The results thus obtained for composition A2 are expressed in Table 5 below.

[0422] [Tables5] A2 Control Cumulative number of broken fibers 164,267

[0423] The results thus obtained show that the claimed composition A2, which comprises a combination of cysteine ​​with a specific fatty acid triglyceride, improves the strength of very curly hair. Indeed, the number of fibers broken during wet combing is significantly lower when the hair is treated with the claimed composition A2 compared to the control. IV. Compositions according to the present invention

[0424] The following compositions A3, A4 and A5 according to the present invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 6 below (% by weight of active ingredient (AM)):

[0425] [Tables] A3 A4 A5 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 5 5 5 Cysteine ​​0.65 0.65 Cysteine ​​HCl 0.75 Cetearyl alcohol 4.5 4.5 4.5 Isononyl isononanoate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride (VARISOFT BT 85 - EVONIK) 3.95 3.95 3.95 Cetyl esters (and) cetyl esters (CRODAMOL MS-PA-(MH) - CRODA) 2 - 2 Prunus armeniana (apricot) seed powder 0.25 0.25 0.25 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (SILSOFT AX-E PMF- MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0.4 0.4 0.4 Ethanolamine (Qs) Qs pH 9 Qs pH9 Qs pH9 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.4 - 0.4 Tocopherol 0.1 0.1 0.1 PEG-180 2 2 2 Isopropyl alcohol - 0.9 0.9 Colorant - qs - Perfume 1 1 0.9 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100

[0426] Hair treated with the compositions A3, A4 and A5 thus obtained is not only easy to detangle and quick to comb, but also manageable for styling is also very good. Furthermore, the A3 and A4 compositions give the hair excellent conditioning properties, particularly in terms of softness and volume. The hair is also strengthened.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (i) cysteine ​​and salts thereof, (ii) one or more fatty acid triglycerides containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms in a total amount greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the fatty acid triglyceride(s) (ii) being selected from coconut oil, and (iii) optionally one or more additional reducing agents other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the pH of said composition ranging from 7.5 to 10, said composition further comprising one or more cationic surfactants selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of cysteine ​​(i) is less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even better from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (ii) is from 1 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or any of its derivatives (i) are selected from non-thiolic reducing agents and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulfites, sulfite derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, tocopherols, tocopherol derivatives and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of additional reducing agents (iii) other than cysteine ​​and / or one of its derivatives (i) is from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.15 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it further comprises one or more additional fats other than the fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (ii), preferably selected from C6 to Ci6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglycerides other than the fatty acid triglycerides (ii) previously described, fluorinated oils, non-polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, vegetable waxes, non-siliconized waxes, silicones and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, triglyceride-type vegetable oils other than fatty acid triglycerides (ii), amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of the additional fat(s), other than the fatty acid triglyceride(s) containing 6 to 16 carbon atoms (ii), is from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A cosmetic method for combing and / or styling keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, and after an optional application time, optionally removing it by rinsing.