Composition and application, particularly cosmetic

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.05 to 1.5 µg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 700 to 990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil. The composition is used to provide a soothing effect on the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition and application, particularly cosmetic

[0001] The invention relates to a composition and its application, particularly cosmetic, to provide a soothing effect on the skin and / or maintain homeostasis.

[0002] The skin is a complex organ made up of 3 layers of tissue: the epidermis, the most superficial layer and made up of epithelial tissue including keratinocytes and melanocytes; the dermis, connective tissue which supports the epidermis and includes, among other things, fibroblasts; and the hypodermis, adipose tissue located under the dermis.

[0003] While the skin constitutes a protective barrier for the body against the outside world, it is also a major sensory organ. The epidermis, dermis and hypodermis are in fact widely innervated and contacts between the nerve fibres constituting the cutaneous nerves and the skin cells have been observed. Cutaneous nerve fibres are known to release neurotransmitters such as substance P, somatostatin, CGPR (Calcitonin-Gene Related Peptide), neuropeptide Y and endorphins. Skin cells (epidermal and dermal) also produce neurotransmitters and also express a certain number of receptors for these neurotransmitters.

[0004] The CGRP peptide is a neurotransmitter of pain, just like substance P. It is a peptide of 37 amino acids, of which there are two forms, alpha and beta, released mainly by the unmyelinated C fibers of the epidermis, we speak of free nerve endings.

[0005] The MOR or popioid receptor is a neuronal endomorphic receptor whose presence in the nerve fibers of the skin has been shown by immunohistochemical studies. It thus participates in the modulation of the response to pain at the cutaneous level and the increase in its expression provides an immediate feeling of well-being by relieving pain.

[0006] The cutaneous system is in fact in close interaction with the nervous system and the immune system. We speak of the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NICS). It is this system which allows homeostasis to be maintained. It is also this system which explains the skin sensitivity felt by certain people, without there necessarily being any observable clinical sign. We frequently speak of sensitive skin. People most often describe feelings of discomfort, with one or more characteristic symptoms such as itching, tingling, tightness, heating, sensation of pain to the touch. These manifestations have their origin in a neurosensory component and are due to the release of neurotransmitters by nerve fibers in the epidermis and dermis.

[0007] While ingredients already exist on the cosmetics market to try to respond to the improvement of this state of discomfort and pain of so-called sensitive skin, there is a permanent need for effective alternative ingredients.

[0008] It is to this need that the present invention proposes to respond by providing a composition of totally natural origin.

[0009] Surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that a composition which comprises from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of at least one sterol, from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of at least one phycoprostane and from 700 to 990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil has effects on the expression of certain proteins of interest in the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system, with the unexpected effect of a calming effect on the skin, in particular on sensitive skin. The composition also has effects on increasing the length of neuronal extensions, making it possible to maintain homeostasis.

[0010] One of the advantages of the composition according to the invention is that it can be prepared from a completely natural, non-genetically modified microalgae extract, and without any additive other than a vegetable oil. It is not irritating to the skin and does not induce an allergic reaction.

[0011] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to target several components of the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system, making it particularly effective in reducing sensations of cutaneous discomfort and pain.

[0012] Application WO2013032333A1 describes a composition based on omega-3 fatty acids, in particular eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), astaxanthin and glycerophospholipids, useful for the prevention or treatment of cognitive disorders in oral administration. The ingredients are present in the composition in the form of microalgae extracts. This application does not disclose any cosmetic use of such a composition, nor even a composition in proportions different from the molecules described.

[0013] Application JP2003063942A describes a skin composition useful for treating sensitive skin. Said composition comprises an anti-inflammatory agent and a skin barrier function normalizing agent, making it possible to improve skin hydration. Omega-3 fatty acids are described therein but as barrier function normalizing agents. Thus, this application does not describe the use of an omega-3 fatty acid effective in reducing skin sensitivity or for a calming effect on the skin.

[0014] Microalgae extracts are also described for their beneficial effect on the skin. Thus, application EP2168570B1 is known relating to the use of an extract of Tisochrysis lutea (Isochrysis sp. var. Tahiti) capable of modifying or influencing hair growth and / or the pigmentation of the skin and hair.

[0015] A dermo-cosmetic formula described in application WO2015084136A1 may also comprise an extract of a microalgae of the genus Isochrysis. Said formula has several activities including an anti-inflammatory activity, an antibacterial activity, and an antioxidant activity.

[0016] Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, a soothing effect on the skin of a composition comprising omega-3 fatty acids, xanthophylls, prostaglandin-type compounds and sterols has never been described. A soothing effect on the skin of an extract of microalgae of the genus Isochrysidaceae has also not been described.

[0017] A first subject of the invention thus relates to a composition comprising from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 700 to 990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

[0018] A composition of the present invention is disclosed in the present text in a cosmetic application, however it is not restricted thereto. It can thus be envisaged that it is used according to a mode of administration other than that which is recommended by topical application.

[0019] For example, it could be administered orally.

[0020] A second object relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the composition according to the invention to provide a soothing effect on the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

[0021] A third object relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, comprising the topical application of the composition according to the invention.

[0022] A first subject of the invention therefore relates to a composition comprising from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 700 to 990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g of composition of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.1 to 1.2 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 800 to 990 mg of at least one vegetable oil.

[0024] Still advantageously, said composition comprises from 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g of composition of omega-3 fatty acids, from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.2 to 1.0 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 850 to 980 mg of at least one vegetable oil, and very advantageously, it comprises from 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of composition of omega-3 fatty acids, from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.35 to 0.8 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and 950 to 980 mg / g of composition of at least one vegetable oil.

[0025] Omega-3 fatty acids are a family of unsaturated fatty acids whose hydrocarbon chain has about 4 to 36 carbon atoms, generally about 14 to 36 carbon atoms, and whose double bond or first double bond, counted from the terminal methyl group of the chain, is located on the third carbon-carbon bond. The unsaturation(s) can be, independently of each other, cis or trans. The most representative acids are alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), but the term "omega-3 fatty acids" is not restricted to these.Furthermore, and in particular when the fatty acid(s) are of natural origin, they can be extracted from algae and be present in the form of free molecules but also in a derived form such as an esterified form, for example in mono-, di- or tri-esterified form, or in mixtures of these forms.

[0026] Preferably within the meaning of the invention, the or at least one of the omega-3 fatty acids is chosen from stearidonic acid (SDA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and / or any of their mixtures. More preferably, the omega-3 fatty acid is SDA.

[0027] For the purposes of the invention, the term "xanthophylls" means astaxanthin, cantaxanthin, vaucheriaxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, diadinoxanthin, neoxanthin, loroxanthin, siphonoxanthin, diatoxanthin, violaxanthin, dinoxanthin, flavoxanthin, α-cryptoxanthin, β-cryptoxanthin, fucoxanthin and / or any of their derivatives and / or any of their mixtures. Preferably, it is fucoxanthin and / or any of its derivatives.

[0028] The term “derivatives” means their esterified form of mono- or pluri-esters, their glycosylated form and / or any of their mixtures.

[0029] Sterols are a family of well-known lipids having a sterane nucleus whose carbon in position 3 carries a hydroxyl group, the latter being able to be modified for example by an acetyl group. They include natural sterols or phytosterols, and are grouped in the present text under the term phycosterols. non-exhaustively, phytosterols include 24-methylene-cholesterol, [3-sitosterol, fucosterol, isofucosterol, saringosterol, loxocholesterol acetate, crinosterol, and more particularly brassicasterol, stigmasterol and campesterol, and preferably brassicasterol.

[0030] By "phycoprostane" is meant a family of lipids structurally of the prostaglandin type, of natural origin, resulting from non-directly enzymatic oxidations of fatty acids naturally present within microalgal biomasses, grouped in the present text under the term phycoprostanes. These compounds are in particular chosen from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, depending on the fatty acid which has undergone the oxidation(s). Thus, these compounds can be derived from fatty acids such as α-linolenic acid (ALA), arachidonic acid (ARA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), or docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Phytoprostanes are mainly derived from ALA and can be selected from 9-epi-9Flt-PhytoP, ent-16-epi-16-Flt-PhytoP, 9-Flt-PhytoP, ent-16Blt-PhytoP, ent-9Llt-PhytoP, 16(RS)-16-Alt-PhytoP.Isoprostanes are mainly derived from TARA and EPA and can be selected from 15-E2t-IsoP, 15-F2t-IsoP, 15-epi-15-F2t-IsoP, 5-F2t-IsoP, 8(RS)-8-F3t-IsoP. Neuroprostanes are mainly derived from DHA and can be selected from 4-F3t-NeuroP, 10-F4t-NeuroP, 10-epi-10-F4t-NeuroP, 4(RS)-4-F4t-NeuroP, 14(RS)-14-F4t-NeuroP, 20(R)-20-F4t-NeuroP.

[0031] Advantageously within the meaning of the invention, the or at least one of the phycoprostanes is chosen from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, more advantageously neuroprostanes.

[0032] By "vegetable oil" is meant any oil extracted from a plant or an algae, including a microalgae, notably chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil. By medium-chain triglycerides (MCT), is meant esters of glycerol and saturated fatty acids, the hydrocarbon chain of which has 6 to 12 carbon atoms. An MCT oil can thus be chosen from coconut oil, advantageously coconut oil, palm kernel oil and palm oil but can be obtained from other fats or oils.

[0033] Advantageously within the meaning of the invention, the vegetable oil is coconut oil, very advantageously coconut oil.

[0034] Thus, a preferred composition according to the invention comprises: - from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition, preferably from 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g, very preferably from 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of fucoxanthin, - from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition, preferably from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g, very preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of at least one omega-3 fatty acid chosen from stearidonic acid (SDA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and / or any of their mixtures, - from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition, preferably from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g, very preferably from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least one phycosterol, - from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1.2 pg / g, very preferably from 0.2 to 1.0 pg / g and very advantageously from 0.35 to 0.8 pg / g of at least one phycoprostane chosen from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, - from 700 to 990 mg / g of composition, preferably from 800 to 990 mg / g and very preferably from 850 to 980 mg / g of coconut oil, preferably coconut.

[0035] Another preferred composition comprises: - from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition, preferably from 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g, very preferably from 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of fucoxanthin, - from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition, preferably from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g, very preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of at least stearidonic acid (SDA), - from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition, preferably from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g, very preferably from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least one phycosterol, - from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1.2 pg / g, very preferably from 0.2 to 1.0 pg / g and very advantageously from 0.35 to 0.8 pg / g of at least one phycoprostane chosen from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, - from 700 to 990 mg / g of composition, preferably from 800 to 990 mg / g and very preferably from 850 to 980 mg / g of coconut oil, preferably coconut.

[0036] Another preferred composition further comprises: - from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition, preferably from 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g, very preferably from 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of fucoxanthin, - from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition, preferably from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g, very preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g and very advantageously from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of at least stearidonic acid (SDA), - from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition, preferably from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g, very preferably from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g and very advantageously from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of at least brassicasterol, - from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1.2 pg / g, very preferably from 0.2 to 1.0 pg / g and very advantageously from 0.35 to 0.8 pg / g of at least one phycoprostane chosen from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, - from 700 to 990 mg / g of composition, preferably from 800 to 990 mg / g and very preferably from 850 to 980 mg / g of coconut oil, preferably coconut.

[0037] The composition may further comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from natural oils such as argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturizing agents, conditioners, shine agents, texturizing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes, antimicrobial agents, biological additives, chelating agents, biocidal agents, astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents.

[0038] The composition according to the invention is presented in any form suitable for cosmetic use and preferably in a form chosen from a cream, a serum, a gel, a soap, a dermatological bar, a shower gel, an aqueous or oily solution, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, a mask, a lotion, an ointment, a mousse.

[0039] A second object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention to provide a soothing effect on the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

[0040] Preferably within the meaning of the invention, the composition is not used to moisturize the skin.

[0041] The term "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic use, that is to say non-pharmaceutical and non-dermatological; in this indication, it therefore has no therapeutic aim and will advantageously be applied to all or part of healthy skin; however, it is not limited to this, it can actually be applied to all or part of damaged skin without conferring a therapeutic effect.

[0042] “Healthy skin” means any area of skin deemed non-pathological by a dermatologist, i.e. an area of skin not showing any injury, redness, infection, scar, allergy, wound, disease, eczema, inflammation, acne and / or dermatitis.

[0043] The composition according to the invention is advantageously applied topically. Thus, in a cosmetic indication, a composition of the invention is presented in a form suitable for topical application. For the purposes of the invention, the term "topical application" means the local application of the composition to the skin or its vaporization on the surface of the skin.

[0044] The composition is a topically acceptable composition, that is to say a composition which is non-irritating to the skin, non-toxic, and which does not induce an allergic reaction. It may also comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0045] The composition may be applied topically to at least one area of skin selected from any area of the face and / or body. "Any area of the body" means any area of the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, neck, feet and / or hands, including the scalp.

[0046] The term “providing a soothing effect” means inducing an immediate effect of well-being on the skin, a calming effect, advantageously on healthy skin, very advantageously on skin described as sensitive.

[0047] “Sensitive skin” means skin presenting sensations of pain and / or burning, the characteristic signs of which are itching and / or tingling and / or tightness and / or pins and needles and / or discomfort, but without visible clinical signs, i.e. without redness, without eczema, without dermatitis, without desquamation or plaque. Thus, sensitive skin within the meaning of the invention is not allergic skin.

[0048] In one embodiment of the invention, the term "providing a soothing effect" means reducing the gene and / or protein quantity of the neuropeptide CGRP (Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide), also called CALCA (Calcitonin related polypeptide alpha), a known neuromediator of pain, in the presence of the composition according to the invention. Advantageously, this is a reduction of at least 22% in the presence of the composition according to the invention, preferably of at least 30%, more preferably of at least 40% of the protein quantity of CGRP, in comparison with the quantity of CGRP proteins measured without addition of the composition according to the invention but in a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensitive neurons subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin.

[0049] Here, the term "sensory neurons" means human neurons derived from reprogrammed human fibroblast cells. These neurons express the TRPV1 receptor (transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1), capsaicin receptor, TrkA and MOPr and synthesize substance P and the neuropeptide CGRP in their cytoplasm. They depolarize in the presence of capsaicin.

[0050] Still advantageously, this is a protein reduction of the neuropeptide CGRP measured in the presence of a concentration of the composition of 0.1%, 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. Very preferably, the measurement of the protein quantity of CGRP is carried out by ELISA assay under the conditions as described in example 2a) [Table 1].

[0051] Alternatively, it is a decrease in the protein quantity of CGRP measured at the level of a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensory neurons subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC (allyl isothiocyanate). Thus advantageously, the protein decrease of CGRP is at least 16% in the presence of the composition according to the invention, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40%, in comparison with the quantity of CGRP proteins measured in said co-culture subjected to oxidative stress without the composition according to the invention. Still advantageously, it is a protein decrease of the neuropeptide CGRP measured in the presence of a concentration of the composition of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. Very preferably, the measurement of the protein quantity of CGRP is carried out by ELISA assay under the conditions as described in example 2b) [Table 2].

[0052] In another embodiment of the invention, the term "providing a soothing effect" means increasing the level of gene and / or protein expression of the MOR receptor (popioid receptor) in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the level of gene and / or protein expression of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (Control). In a preferred embodiment, this is an increase, in the absence of stress, of the level of protein expression of the MOR receptor in a co-culture of sensitive neurons and human keratinocytes, of at least 14%, preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 100% and very advantageously at least 200% compared to the level of protein expression of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (Control). Advantageously, this is an increase in the presence of a concentration of the composition of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample.Advantageously, the level of protein expression of the MOR receptor is measured by immunolabeling, under the conditions described in example 2c) [Table 3].

[0053] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is an increase in the level of gene and / or protein expression of the MOR receptor in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the level of gene and / or protein expression of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (Control), in a co-culture of sensory neurons and human keratinocytes subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin (Positive control). Advantageously, this is an increase in the protein expression level of the MOR receptor of at least 70%, advantageously at least 150%, still advantageously at least 200% compared to the protein expression level measured in the co-culture subjected to stress in the presence of capsaicin and without the composition according to the invention.

[0054] Advantageously again, the increase is measured in the presence of a concentration of the composition of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. Advantageously again, the level of protein expression of the MOR receptor is measured by immunolabeling, under the conditions described in example 2d) [Table 4],

[0055] Alternatively, this is an increase of at least 35%, more preferably of at least 50% and very preferably of at least 200% in the level of protein expression of the MOR receptor in the presence of the composition according to the invention, compared to the level of protein expression of said receptor measured in the absence of the composition (Positive Control), at the level of a co-culture of sensitive neurons and human keratinocytes subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC. Advantageously, the increase is measured in the presence of a concentration of the composition of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample. More preferably, the level of protein expression of the MOR receptor is measured by immunolabeling, under the conditions described in Example 2d) [Table 5].

[0056] Homeostasis is defined here as maintaining the balance between the exchange and synthesis functions of the various molecular and cellular components at the cutaneous and / or neuronal level, making it possible to maintain constant biological parameters when these are subjected to stress or stimuli induced by changes in external conditions. Thus, within the meaning of the invention, the term "maintaining homeostasis" means maintaining the balance of the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NICS) so that the pain felt is effectively correlated to a negative external stimulus, and not induced by an imbalance due to an overreaction of the NICS system uncorrelated with an external stimulus. One of the components of maintaining this homeostasis is associated with maintaining the neuronal network and, in fact, with the length of the neuronal extensions.

[0057] Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the term “maintaining homeostasis” means maintaining and / or increasing the length of neurons in the presence of the composition according to the invention. Advantageously, the composition is effective in maintaining said homeostasis when the length of the neuronal extensions is increased by at least 14%, preferably by at least 20%. in the presence of the composition according to the invention, in comparison with the length measured without the composition in the co-culture model of keratinocytes and sensory neurons subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, this is an increase measured in the presence of a concentration of the composition of 0.05% or 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the sample, under the conditions as described in example 3.

[0058] In a very advantageous embodiment, this is an increase in the neuronal extension of the non-myelinated C fibers. Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not increase the length of the myelinated neurites. It also does not increase the length of the non-myelinated fibers in the absence of oxidative stress.

[0059] In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition has no anti-inflammatory activity, that is to say in particular no activity of inhibition of pro-inflammatory markers.

[0060] The invention further relates to the use of a microalgae extract chosen from any one of the taxa Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haplophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae, to prepare the composition according to the invention. Preferably, the microalgae extract comes from the microalga Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricomutum, more preferably T. lutea.

[0061] The term "microalgae extract" means any extract of the biomass from organisms capable of photosynthesis obtained by a process making it possible to obtain, directly or indirectly, the composition of the invention. These extracts have a composition, expressed as a mass percentage of the total extract, of proteins between 0.05% and 0.20%, of sterols between 0.005% and 0.050%, and between 0.1% and 0.5% of chlorophyll.

[0062] More specifically, the lipophilic part composing the extract, advantageously the extract of T. lutea, expressed as a mass percentage relative to the lipophilic fraction, comprises 0.438% of unsaturated fatty acids, 0.25% of omega-3 acids, 0.054% of omega-6 acids. Said extract further comprises between 0.02% and 0.04% of xanthophylls as a mass percentage relative to the extract. It comprises 0.035% of fucoxanthin.

[0063] The extract further comprises 2.65 mg of omega-3 acids / g of extract, and 230 ng of phycoprostane(s) / g of extract.

[0064] The microalgae are cultivated in a controlled manner within suitable systems such as raceways, open ponds or preferably closed systems such as photobioreactors. The photobioreactors used can be of any existing type such as horizontal tubular photobioreactors, vertical ones such as so-called "green wall panel" systems, flat or columnar photobioreactors. Preferably, biomass production will take place within a closed cultivation system, by autotrophy without impact on arable land.

[0065] The production of biomass is carried out according to the batch, fed-batch, continuous, semi-continuous, turbidostat or chemostat type cultivation methods.

[0066] The extracts are obtained after concentration of the biomass by elimination of all or part of the water using chemical or physical processes such as centrifugation, filtration, flocculation, sedimentation, coupled, or not, with drying steps by freeze-drying, vacuum drying, drum drying, atomization or any other process allowing the water content of the biomass to be reduced. In addition to these steps, cell lysis processes can be implemented such as the application of pressures, electrical flows of shear forces, the use of enzymes, or any other process allowing the destructuring of tissues, organs, cells or organelles.

[0067] The microalgae extract can be obtained by any solid-liquid extraction type process, which can be by hypercritical fluids or by subcritical fluids, which can involve co-treatments carried out in parallel or sequentially of microwave, ultrasound, pressure, enzymatic types. Thus the microalgae extract can be obtained by extraction under subcritical conditions.

[0068] The extraction can be carried out in the presence of any suitable solvent chosen from acetone, hexane, ethyl acetate, methyltetrahydrofuran, heptane, methanol, a natural or branched oil, ethanol or any other solvent allowing all or part of the compounds of hydrophobic and amphiphilic nature to be extracted. The solvent can be used pure or as a mixture. Here, the term "as a mixture" means a mixture with another solvent or a mixture with water in respective proportions by volume solvent / water of 99:1 (v / v) to 1:99 (v / v).

[0069] The solvent or mixture of solvents is separated from the residual biomass after extraction by processes such as centrifugation, filtration and can subsequently be concentrated, or the solvent removed, by techniques such as vacuum evaporation or any other technique allowing the selective evaporation of the solvent in question. The extract thus obtained is of a lipophilic nature while comprising amphiphilic molecules.

[0070] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the microalgae extract is an extract of Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricomutum, more preferably T. lutea.

[0071] Advantageously, it is obtained by extraction in the presence of an ethanol / water mixture of 99:1 (v / v) to 30:70 (v / v) from the biomass of T. lutea, under the conditions described in example 1. The final extract comprises in mg / g of extract:

[0072] Another subject of the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, comprising the oral administration or the topical application, preferably the topical application, of the composition according to the invention, or of a microalgae extract chosen from any one of the taxa Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae, preferably Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricomutum, still preferably T. lutea, advantageously for preparing the composition according to the invention, for providing a soothing effect on the skin and / or for maintaining homeostasis.

[0073] In an advantageous embodiment, the method comprises the topical application of the composition to at least one area of skin, preferably healthy, chosen from any area of the face and / or body, i.e. any area of the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, neck, feet and / or hands, including the scalp.

[0074] Examples referring to the description are presented below. These examples are illustrative and do not limit the scope of the invention. The examples are an integral part of the present invention and any new feature compared to a state of the prior art from the description taken as a whole is an integral part of the invention.

[0075] Unless expressly stated, percentages are expressed as weight / weight and temperature is given in degrees Celsius.

[0076] Example 1: method of preparing the composition and an extract of T. lutea

[0077] The geographical origin of the microalgae strain used to prepare the composition according to the invention is France.

[0078] An extract is obtained by extraction in an ethanol-water mixture (70:30; v / v) from the microalga Tisochrysis lutea. It is insoluble in water and highly viscous, preventing any handling at room temperature.

[0079] The extract and the coconut oil are brought to room temperature (25 ± 1 °C) 24 hours before preparation. The extract is transferred into a centrifuge tube containing the oil in such a way that the final net mass of the mixture is approximately 5 g and the mass proportion is such that the extract consists of 25% of the total net mass of the mixture. The mixture is stirred for one minute using a so-called vortex mixing device. The stirring is repeated three times per mixture. A homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0080] The final extract obtained includes:

[0081] Omega-3 fatty acids (ALA, SD A, EPA, DHA): 2.65 mg / g of extract;

[0082] Fucoxanthin: 0.35mg / g of extract;

[0083] Sterols 0.115mg / g of extract;

[0084] Phycoprostane(s) 230 ng / g of extract; and coconut oil (950 mg / g of said extract). Example 2: Soothing effect of the composition

[0085] Example 2a) Protein reduction of the neuropeptide CGRP in a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensory neurons subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin.

[0086] Protocol: Co-culture of neurons and keratinocytes:

[0087] Sensory neurons were obtained from hiPS cells (human induced pluripotent stem cells) themselves obtained from human fibroblasts. The cells were seeded and maintained for a period of 6 days in culture in a medium inducing their differentiation at a temperature of 37°C (5% CO2). The culture medium was changed every 2 days. After a period of 9 days of culture, the culture medium was changed to a maturation medium. The cells were maintained in culture at a temperature of 37°C under 5% CO2. The culture medium was changed every 2 to 3 days. After a period of 14 days of culture, commercial keratinocytes from a 29-year-old adult donor (Lonza) were added to the culture of differentiated hiPS cells.The co-culture was maintained in a culture medium consisting of a mixture of maturation medium and growth medium for keratinocytes (Promocell) at a temperature of 37°C under 5% CO2. The culture medium was changed every 2 to 3 days.

[0088] Treatment of the co-culture by the composition according to the invention:

[0089] After a period of 17 days of co-culture, the composition was added to the medium at a final concentration by weight relative to the total weight of the medium and the composition of 0.01% or 0.05% (w / w).

[0090] After a 24-hour incubation period, capsaicin (100M) or AITC (100M) or DMSO (0.2% w / w) as a control, was added to the co-culture in the presence of the composition according to the invention.

[0091] CGRP Assay: After a 30-minute stress period, culture supernatants were collected and CGRP assay by ELISA was performed. Results are expressed as the average of 6 samples (n=6).

[0092] Result:

[0093] [Tables 1] CGRP Protein Amount (%) Standard Deviation from Mean Unstressed Control (DMSO 0.2%) 100 0 Positive Control (Capsaicin 100M) 135 5 Capsaicin (100M) and composition according to Example 1 at 0.01% (w / w) 105**** 3 Capsaicin (100M) and composition according to Example 1 at 0.05% (w / w) 103**** 2 Capsaicin (100M) and composition according to Example 1 at 0.1% (w / w) 101**** 2

[0094] Conclusion: the composition according to the invention made it possible to significantly reduce the protein quantity of the neuropeptide CGRP in the co-culture model subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of capsaicin, showing the positive soothing effect of the composition at the concentrations tested (**** p< <0.0001 One Way Anova test with Dunnett's correction).

[0095] Example 2b) Protein reduction of the neuropeptide CGRP in a co-culture of keratinocytes and sensory neurons subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC

[0096] Protocol: the protocol is that described in example 2a).

[0097] Result:

[0098] [Tables2] Protein quantity of CG RP (%) Standard deviation from the mean Unstressed control (DMSO 0.2%) 100 0 Positive control (AITC ImM) 132 8 AITC (ImM) and composition according to example 1 at 0.01% (w / w) 104**** 4 AITC (ImM) and composition according to example 1 at 0.05% (w / w) 97**** 2

[0099] Conclusion: The composition made it possible to significantly reduce the protein quantity of the neuropeptide CGRP in the co-culture model subjected to oxidative stress in the presence of AITC, showing here again the positive soothing effect of the composition at the concentrations tested (**** p< <0.0001 One Way Anova test with Dunnett's correction).

[0100] Example 2c): Increased protein of the MOR receptor in a co-culture of keratinocytes and human sensory neurons not subjected to stress

[0101] Protocol: the protocol for preparing the co-culture is that described in example 2a).

[0102] Immunostaining: After or without [Table 3] the addition of capsaicin (100M) [Table 4] or AITC (100M) [Table 5] or DMSO (0.2%) as a control, the culture supernatants were recovered and the previously fixed cells were incubated in the presence of primary antibodies anti [3-tubulin (Euromedex) and anti-MOR (Merck). These antibodies were revealed by secondary antibodies coupled to fluorochromes (Fisher Scientific). The nuclei were labeled with a solution of Hoechst (Sigma Aldrich), a nuclear fluorescent marker, in the same solution as the secondary antibodies.

[0103] Photographs were taken with an automatic microscope (InCell 2200; GE Healthcare) at x20 magnification. The expression density of the MOR marker was measured and compared to the control condition and corresponds to the average of 6 samples (n=6).

[0104] Statistical analysis was performed using a One Way Anova test corrected with a Dunnett test.

[0105] Result:

[0106] [Tables3] MOR receptor protein expression rate (%) Standard deviation from the mean Control without composition (DMSO 0.2%) 100 7 Composition according to example 1 at 0.01% (w / w) 146 25 Composition according to example 1 at 0.05% (w / w) 394**** 33

[0107] Conclusion: the basal level of protein expression of the MOR receptor was significantly increased, by at least 14% in the presence of the composition according to the invention at the 2 concentrations tested in the absence of stress, in comparison with the control.

[0108] Example 2d): Protein increase of the MOR receptor in a co-culture of human keratinocytes and sensory neurons subjected to stress in the presence of capsaicin [Table 4] or AICT [Table 5]

[0109] [Tables4] MOR receptor protein expression rate (%) Standard deviation from the mean Control without composition (DMSO 0.2%) 100 7 Positive control (Capsaicin lOpM) 82 20 Capsaicin lOpM and composition according to T example 1 0.01% (w / w) 198** 20 Capsaicin lOpM and composition according to T example 1 0.05% (w / w) 310*** 41

[0110] (*** p< 0.001; ** p<0.01 One Way Anova test with Dunnett's correction) [YES] [Tables5] MOR receptor protein expression level (%) Standard deviation from the mean Control without composition (DMSO 0.2%) 100 7 Positive control (AITC ImM) 78 15 AITC (ImM) and composition according to Example 1 0.01% (w / w) 159** 28 AITC (ImM) Composition according to Example 1 0.05% (w / w) 303*** 18

[0112] (*** p< 0.001; ** p<0.01 One Way Anova test with Dunnett's correction)

[0113] Conclusion: whatever the oxidative stress tested (Capsaicin or AITC), the composition according to the invention made it possible to significantly increase, by at least 70% (Capsaicin) and at least 35% (AITC) the level of protein expression of the MOR receptor in the co-culture studied, in comparison with said level of expression measured in the co-cultures subjected to stress. The levels of expression in the presence of the composition are clearly higher than that measured in the control co-culture (not stressed).

[0114] Example 3: Effect on the increase in the length of neuronal extensions

[0115] Protocol: the protocol for preparing the co-culture of sensory neurons and keratinocytes is that described in example 2a).

[0116] After the addition of capsaicin (100M) or DMSO (0.2%) as a control [Table 6], the culture supernatants were collected and the cells were previously fixed. Photographs were taken with an automatic microscope (InCell 2200; GE Healthcare) at x20 magnification. A neuron count was performed and the length of neuronal processes was measured for each condition. The results were compared to the control condition (n=6). Statistical analysis was performed using a One Way Anova test followed by a Dunnett test.

[0117] Results:

[0118] [Tableauxô] Length of neuronal processes / number of neurons (%) Standard deviation from the mean Control without composition (DMSO 0.2%) 100 6 Positive control (Capsaicin lOpM) 76 3 Capsaicin lOpM and composition according to example 1 0.01% (w / w) 101* 8 Capsaicin lOpM and composition according to example 1 0.05% (w / w) 102* 7

[0119] Conclusion: the composition at the tested concentrations made it possible to significantly increase the length of neuronal extensions and made it possible to restore the length measured at the level of the control not subjected to oxidative stress.

[0120] (* p<0.05; One Way Anova test with Dunnett's correction)

[0121] Example 4: Example of a cosmetic formulation comprising the composition

[0122] The components are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the formulation.

[0123] Caprylic / capric triglyceride 10.00

[0124] Glycerin 2.98

[0125] Myristyl myristate 2.50

[0126] Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

[0127] Sodium polyacrylate 0.60

[0128] Composition of the invention (Ex. 1) 0.50

[0129] 1,2-hexanediol 0.30

[0130] Caprylyl glycol 0.30

[0131] Ethylhexylglycerin 0.29

[0132] Xanthan gum 0.25

[0133] EDTA disodium 0.10

[0134] Tocopherol 0.09

[0135] Sodium hydroxide 0.02

[0136] Helianthus annuus seed oil 0.005

[0137] Water Qsp 100

Claims

Claims

1. A composition comprising from 0.1 to 8.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 45.0 mg / g of composition of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.8 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.05 to 1.5 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 700 to 990 mg / g of at least one vegetable oil.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.1 to 4.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 20.0 mg / g of composition of at least one omega-3 fatty acid, from 0.02 to 0.4 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.1 to 1.2 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 800 to 990 mg / g of composition of at least one vegetable oil.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising from 0.1 to 1.0 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 5.0 mg / g of composition of omega-3 fatty acids, from 0.02 to 0.2 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.2 to 1.0 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 850 to 980 mg / g of composition of at least one vegetable oil.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising from 0.1 to 0.5 mg / g of composition of at least one xanthophyll, from 1.0 to 3.1 mg / g of composition of omega-3 fatty acids, from 0.02 to 0.15 mg / g of composition of at least one sterol, from 0.35 to 0.8 pg / g of composition of at least one phycoprostane and from 950 to 980 mg / g of composition of at least one vegetable oil.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least one vegetable oil is chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil is chosen from palm oil or coconut oil, preferably coconut oil.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the or at least one of the omega-3 fatty acids is chosen from stearidonic acid (SDA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and / or any of their mixtures, advantageously stearidonic acid.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the or at least one of the xanthophylls is fucoxanthin.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the or at least one of the sterols is chosen from phytosterols, advantageously brassicasterol.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the or at least one of the phycoprostanes is chosen from phytoprostanes, isoprostanes and neuroprostanes, advantageously neuroprostanes.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is presented in a form chosen from a cream, a serum, a gel, a soap, a dermatological bar, a shower gel, an aqueous or oily solution, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, a mask, a lotion, an ointment, a mousse.

13. Use of a microalgae extract selected from any of the taxa Pinguiophyceae, Chrysophyceae, Bacillariophyceae, Mamiellophyceae, Prymnesiophyceae, Haptophyceae, Coccolithophyceae, Isochrysidaceae and Phaeodactylaceae, for preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19

14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the microalgae is Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana or Phaeodactylum tricomutum, preferably T. lutea.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or of a microalgae extract chosen from any one of the taxa Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana, by application to healthy skin, to provide a soothing effect on the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or microalgae extract chosen from any one of the taxa Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana, for its use in providing a soothing effect on sensitive skin.

17. Cosmetic care method comprising the topical application to healthy skin of the composition according to any one of 1 to 12, or of a microalgae extract chosen from any one of the taxa Tisochrysis lutea or Isochrysis galbana, more preferably T. lutea, to provide a soothing effect on the skin and / or to maintain homeostasis.

18. Cosmetic care method according to claim 17, characterized in that it comprises topical application to at least one area of skin chosen from any area of the face and / or any area of the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, neck, feet and / or hands, including the scalp.