Cosmetic composition comprising a particulate cellulose compound, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and a plant-derived wax

The combination of particulate cellulose, hydrophobic silica aerogel, and plant-derived wax in cosmetic compositions addresses the challenges of blurring skin imperfections, ensuring stability and sensory comfort, and reduces silicone and microplastic use for a smooth, non-sticky application.

FR3130606B1Active Publication Date: 2025-10-24LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2021014061
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2021-12-21
Publication Date
2025-10-24
Estimated Expiration
2041-12-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to provide effective blurring of skin imperfections while maintaining stability, sensory comfort, and environmental friendliness, often leading to fluffing, dryness, or oily sensations, and are not suitable for broad application on the face.

Method used

A composition comprising particulate cellulose compounds, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and a wax of plant origin with a melting point above 25°C, which together enhance optical and sensory performance, providing stable, homogeneous coverage without fluffing or stickiness.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves good blurring effects, stability, and sensory comfort, offering a luminous complexion with improved emollience and glide, while minimizing silicone and microplastic content.

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Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising a particulate cellulose compound, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and a wax of plant origin The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for caring for keratin materials, comprising: at least one particulate cellulose compound; at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and at least one wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application of this composition to the keratin materials. Figure for abstract: None
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a particulate cellulose compound, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and a wax of plant origin

[0001] The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and hygiene of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and in particular of the skin, a new composition which is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performance and the sensory sensations which it provides to the user when it is applied to them, in particular to the skin.

[0002] By “keratin materials” is meant in particular the skin, and / or the lips, and preferably the skin. Technical field

[0003] Cosmetic compositions are commonly used to camouflage and / or unify imperfections in the skin's texture such as pores, wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have been developed to date.

[0004] When these compositions are more particularly intended to blur the visibility of the relief of the skin, the formulator uses diffusing or blurring fillers. However, the corresponding compositions currently available are not entirely satisfactory, particularly in terms of blurring performance.

[0005] In order to obtain a satisfactory degree of blurring, it is often necessary to introduce a significant quantity of blurring fillers into the composition. However, this level of blurring fillers can lead to destabilization of said composition and lead to cosmetic properties that do not meet users' expectations, in particular the formation of fluff during application of the product and / or after drying and / or penetration of the product into the skin; or even a dry effect after application causing an unpleasant sensation, or even discomfort, for the consumer.

[0006] These defects are prohibitive for the user, because the application is not homogeneous or pleasant given this fluffy effect when applying or removing the product. In addition, it gives a "dirty" impression on the skin, making it difficult to apply the product to the entire face and its use in daily use.

[0007] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products is becoming an important issue in order to satisfy new consumer expectations, in particular those of natural and / or eco-designed products, i.e. the design of which and development take into account environmental impacts.

[0008] Just like any other conventional cosmetic composition, eco-designed and / or natural cosmetic compositions must meet performance and usage criteria (stability, applicability, safety, etc.). Prior art

[0009] In order to overcome these problems and provide comfortable care with a blurring effect, alternative oily galenics are currently available on the cosmetics market.

[0010] However, these formulations have the disadvantages linked to the presence of high levels of fatty phase and fillers in the composition, namely the provision of shiny skin and / or the sensation of oily and / or sticky skin. In addition, they also have stability problems.

[0011] Furthermore, such oily formulations cause sensations of heat on the skin. Thus, they are reserved for certain specific skin types, and are generally applied very locally on specific areas of the face.

[0012] The use of silicones, and in particular crosslinked silicones, is another alternative. This type of raw material allows for a combination of a matte and soft-focus effect. However, they have the disadvantage of being characterized by a greasy and warm feel that is uncomfortable, with a "mask" effect.

[0013] Furthermore, there is currently a trend on the international market towards compositions without silicone compounds and without microplastic compounds, with a consumer preference for products that allow safe use and are also environmentally friendly.

[0014] It therefore remains difficult for those skilled in the art to develop compositions meeting these requirements, and which are homogeneous, stable and capable of providing an immediate visual result on the skin with a sensation of lightness and comfort on application, with a non-sticky deposit, this expected immediate result preferably being good coverage of imperfections, homogeneity of the complexion and / or relief imperfections. Statement of the invention

[0015] There therefore remains a need for cosmetic compositions that comply with current regulations, and are stable and environmentally friendly, making it possible to mask skin imperfections, while having good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of optical and sensory effects, without exhibiting any fluffing phenomenon or dry effect after application.

[0016] There also remains a need for new formulations containing essentially uncriticized products, and which remain stable and homogeneous over time and under effects of light and temperature.

[0017] There is also a need to have such cosmetic compositions which are compatible with consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view.

[0018] The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0019] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one particulate cellulose compound; - at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and - at least one wax of vegetable origin with a melting point above 25°C.

[0020] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the combination of specific compounds as defined above makes it possible to improve the optical and sensory performances of a composition, and to obtain stable compositions with a consistency adapted to the intended cosmetic applications.

[0021] As is apparent from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention have good blurring effects, in other words good soft-focus optical effects, are stable and do not present any linting problems.

[0022] The compositions according to the invention make it possible to combine optical and sensory performances. In particular, a composition according to the invention is stable and makes it possible to mask imperfections and provide a luminous complexion, while having good sensory properties, in particular in terms of emollience, stickiness and glide on the skin.

[0023] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone compound(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone compound(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is devoid (free) of silicone compound(s).

[0024] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone, in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is devoid (free) of silicone.

[0025] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of microplastic compound(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of microplastic compound(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of microplastic compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is devoid (free) of microplastic compound(s), in particular of microplastic filler(s). plastic(s).

[0026] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention. Detailed description

[0027] As indicated above, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one particulate cellulose compound; - at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and - at least one wax of vegetable origin with a melting point above 25°C. Particulate cellulose compound

[0028] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one particulate cellulose compound.

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the term particulate means that the cellulose compound is in the form of particles.

[0030] Thus, the particulate cellulose compounds according to the invention are different from polymeric celluloses.

[0031] The particulate cellulose compounds are more particularly chosen from cellulose compounds in the form of spheres, cellulose compounds in the form of fibers, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Among the spherical cellulose particles, we can in particular cite the following commercial products sold by the company Daito Kasei in Japan: - Cellulobeads USF® with a particle size of 4-7 pm (porous spherical cellulose beads), - Cellulobeads D-5® with a particle size less than 10 pm,

[0033] - Cellulobeads D-10® with a particle size of 15 pm, - Moiscell PW D-5 XP® with a particle size of 10 pm (potassium succinate cellulose), - Moiscell PW D-50 XP® with a particle size of 50 pm (potassium succinate cellulose).

[0034] Among the cellulosic particles in the form of fibers, we can in particular cite: - cellulose fibres marketed under the name Tego® Feel C 10, by the Evonik Company, which have an average particle size of 30 pm, and - cellulose fibers marketed under the name Naturesoft® 800, by the Micro Powders Company, which have an average particle size of 7-12 pm.

[0035] By "average size" of the particles is meant the parameters D[4,3] and D[2,3] measured in the dry process by laser diffraction using a Microtrac S3500 granulometer, the results being expressed in the form of granulometric distributions in volume and number giving access to the average diameter.

[0036] In a particular embodiment, the particulate cellulose compounds according to the invention are chosen from cellulose compounds in the form of a sphere.

[0037] The cellulose compounds in the form of a sphere are preferably chosen from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, and more preferably from spherical cellulose beads.

[0038] For the purposes of the invention, the term “cellulose beads” means cellulose particles in spherical form with a median diameter in volume less than or equal to 8 μm.

[0039] The cellulose beads can be porous or non-porous.

[0040] Preferably, the cellulose beads are porous.

[0041] The porosity of the cellulose microbeads can be characterized by a specific surface area of ​​10 m2 / g to 1500 m2 / g, more preferably of 50 m2 / g to 1000 m2 / g, and even more preferably of 50 m2 / g to 500 m2 / g according to the BET method.

[0042] As spherical cellulose beads, mention may preferably be made of those marketed by the company Daito Kasei under the name Cellulobeads USF®.

[0043] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, of particulate cellulose compound(s), and in particular of spherical cellulose beads, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise less than 0.5% by weight of polymeric cellulose compound(s), in particular less than 0.1% by weight, and preferably are free of polymeric cellulose compound(s). Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

[0045] A composition according to the invention comprises hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0046] Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials, the first of which were made by Kristler in 1932.

[0047] The term “hydrophobic silica” means both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles totally or partially coated with hydrophobic silica.

[0048] The hydrophobic silicas that can be used are preferably amorphous and of pyrogenic origin. They are preferably in powder form.

[0049] Amorphous hydrophobic silicas of pyrogenic origin are generally obtained from hydrophilic pyrogenic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis in continuous flame at 1000 °C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic, for example, by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. Hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas by, among other things, a lower silanol group density and a lower water vapor adsorption.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise hydrophobically treated pyrogenic silica aerogel particles.

[0051] The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane, or dimethylsilyloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of dimethyldichlorosilane.

[0052] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0053] It will also be possible to use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups, namely trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.

[0054] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention preferably have a size, expressed as average diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 pm, and preferably ranging from 1 pm to 30 pm, preferably from 2 pm to 25 pm, better still from 2 pm to 20 pm and even better still from 2 pm to 15 pm.

[0055] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 microns to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 m2 / g to 800 m2 / g.

[0056] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 m2 / g to 800 m2 / g.

[0057] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200, as well as the references Airlica TL3 and Airlica TL5 marketed by the company Toyukama.

[0058] A composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.1% by weight of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to its total weight.

[0059] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Wax of vegetable origin with a melting point above 25°C

[0061] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C.

[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change.

[0063] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0064] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.

[0065] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from - 20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then is cooled from 100 °C to - 20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from - 20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0066] As waxes of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

[0067] - camauba wax, - candellila wax, in particular the commercial reference Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from the company Strahl & Pitsch, - lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof, - rice bran wax, - Ouricury wax, - Alfa wax, - cork fiber wax, - sugar cane wax, - Japanese wax, - sumac wax, - montan wax, - Orange wax, in particular that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - Laurel wax, - sunflower wax, - lemon wax, - olive wax, - berry wax, - sumac wax, - beeswax, in particular that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP 453P by the company Strahl & Pitsch or Cerabeil Lor by the company Baerlocher, - buckwheat wax, in particular that marketed by the company Codif, - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols with a C12 to C18 chain, in particular sold by the company Sophim in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), - partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil, - hydrogenated jojoba oil, - isomerized jojoba oil, in particular partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-500, - fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, in particular the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & helianthus annus seed wax & acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl, in particular the product marketed under the name Hydracire S or Acticire® by the company Gatefossé, - hydrogenated glycerol esters, in particular the product marketed under the name Cegesoft HF 52 by the company Cognis (BASF), a mixture of hydrogenated rapeseed and palm oils, or the product marketed under the name Softisan 100 Cremer by the company OLEO, - partially hydrogenated olive oil, in particular the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated sunflower oil, - hydrogenated castor oil, - hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, in particular Thixinr from Rheox, - hydrogenated coconut oil, - hydrogenated palm oil, - hydrogenated coconut oil, - hydrogenated coco-glycerides, - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, - behenyl alcohol, - and / or their mixtures.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C chosen from carnauba wax, partially hydrogenated wax esters of jojoba oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated jojoba oil), fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, behenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C chosen from hydrogenated jojoba oil, the mixture of three waxes jojoba esters & helianthus annus seed wax & acacia decurrens extract and polyglyceryl sold under the name ACTICIRE by the company Gattefossé, and their mixtures.

[0070] More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment, the waxes of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight of hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fat phase

[0073] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0074] For the purposes of the invention, the term “fatty phase” means a phase comprising at least at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients or fatty substances required according to the invention.

[0075] Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase comprising, in addition to the wax(es) of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C suitable for the invention, at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil and where appropriate at least one additional wax and / or a pasty.

[0076] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more, of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0077] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0078] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0079] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0080] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0081] The fatty phase may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.

[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0083] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0084] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0085] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals, provided that these oils are environmentally friendly. Volatile oils

[0086] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0087] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone.

[0088] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made of branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-Ci6 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4 ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures.

[0090] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and do-decamethylpentasiloxane.

[0091] As volatile cyclic silicone oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0092] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used. Non-volatile oils

[0093] By “non-volatile” is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0094] The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0095] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can notably cite: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and their mixtures, - non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer. “Non-volatile alkane” means a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of March 11, 1992: “Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K”. In particular, the non-volatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ, rice bran, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pothnarron, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Limanthes alba seeds (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil);or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name “Finsolv TN” or “Witconol TN” by the company Witco or “Tegosoft TN” by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, benzoate 2-ethylphenyl such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate,isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms,for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear di-alkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example, example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular the dimer dilinoleate esters, more particularly chosen from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl di-merdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdi-linoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name “Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto, - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids C12-C22, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis; - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methylcone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils. Other fatty substances

[0096] A fatty phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or dissolved in an oil, other fatty substances distinct from the wax(es) of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C.

[0097] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example: - fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - waxes, distinct from wax(es) of vegetable origin having a melting point above 25°C, such as paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4-alkyldimethicone and tri- fluoropropyldimethicone; - silicone elastomers such as products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries; - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.

[0098] As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may comprise in particular at least one butter, more particularly a vegetable butter.

[0099] The vegetable butter(s) suitable for the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, urucum butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular shea butter.

[0100] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile ester oil.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters, esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, carbonates, as well as mixtures of these different oils.

[0103] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one oil chosen from squalane, glyceride triesters, myristate myristyl, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, dimer dilinoleate esters, in particular bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdi-linoleyl dimerdilinoleate, octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one other fatty substance, distinct from the wax(es) of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C, in particular at least one butter, more particularly a vegetable butter, and preferably shea butter.

[0106] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms.

[0107] More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), or mixtures thereof.

[0108] Preferably, the fatty phase content is between 0.5% and 50% by weight, in particular between 0.5% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is devoid (free) of silicone oil(s). Aqueous phase

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0111] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, when present, comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0112] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.5% by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0115] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

[0116] Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0117] According to an alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0119] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

[0120] A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

[0121] The polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0122] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from butylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

[0126] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.

[0127] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water (or aqueous phase) content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition or even less than 0.5% and in particular free of water. In this definition, the water mentioned includes the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. Gelling agents

[0128] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent, and in particular at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

[0130] The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0131] The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

[0132] The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

[0135] Natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents

[0136] The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

[0137] For the purposes of the invention, the expression “of natural origin” is intended to designate polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

[0138] These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

[0139] More precisely, these gelling agents fall into the category of polysaccharides.

[0140] In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, gums Tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin,in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates and mixtures thereof, and preferably among biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

[0141] For the purposes of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin.

[0142] The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent considered according to the invention may be particulate or not.

[0143] For the purposes of the invention, the term particulate means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

[0144] As is apparent from the following, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, and their mixtures, in particular as defined below.

[0145] Polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid

[0146] The polymers used suitable as aqueous gelling agents for the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0147] They are preferably totally or practically totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

[0148] These AMPS® polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0149] The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS® monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents; or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small quantities.

[0150] As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS® suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0151] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises an AMPS® homopolymer.

[0152] As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example: - crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic; - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS® / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl-dimethyl taurate copolymer); - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or such as the product marketed under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

[0153] As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers and / or copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate. Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers

[0154] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids with α,β-ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) with ethylenic unsaturation comprising a hydrophobic group. The term "copolymers" means both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers. According to a preferred embodiment, these polymers are crosslinked.

[0155] Among these polymers, preferred according to the present invention are acrylate / Cio-C3O-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / Cio-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2.

[0156] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those marketed under the name Cosmedia SP® or Cosmedia SPL®, sold by the company Cognis.

[0157] Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.

[0158] The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers. For the purposes of the present application, the term "(meth)acrylic" means "acrylic or methacrylic". For example, mention may be made of those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M.

[0159] Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, we can in particular cite Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / Cio-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) marketed by the company Lubrizol. Surfactants

[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant.

[0161] The surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactant

[0162] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0163] The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, in particular sucrose stearate, glycerol esters, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, non-ionic copolymers with three poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) blocks also called poloxamer, and their mixtures.

[0164] As glycerol esters, mention may in particular be made of C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glyceryl, in particular glyceryl esters of fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0165] As ester of glyceryl and C18 fatty acid, mention may in particular be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0166] As ester of glycerol and fatty acid, mention may be made of mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, and in particular that comprising a 50 / 50 mixture, marketed under the name Arlacel 165® by the company Croda, or the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, marketed under the name Tegin® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0167] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant, and preferably a surfactant chosen from glycerol and fatty acid esters, non-ionic copolymers with three poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) blocks, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] Among the non-ionic copolymers with three poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) blocks, also called poloxamer, mention may be made in particular of those marketed under the name Pluronic or Kolliphor by the company BASF or under the name Synperonic by the company Croda. Anionic surfactant

[0169] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of Cw-Cw fatty acids, in particular C16-C25, in par in particular metal stearates and behenates, alkali salts of cetylphosphate, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] As alkaline salts of cetylphosphate, mention may in particular be made of potassium cetylphosphate. In particular, use may be made of the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name “Amphisol K” by the company DSM Nutritional products. Cationic surfactant

[0171] The cationic surfactants may be chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (C12-30 alkyl)-tri(C14-30 alkyl)ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride). Amphoteric surfactant

[0172] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or even silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as that sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical. Silicone surfactant

[0173] The composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, may be mentioned, dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and non-ionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol.

[0174] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), and more preferably is free of silicone surfactant(s).

[0175] The surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention, in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Assets

[0176] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0177] In particular, the additional cosmetic active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0178] The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable to form hydrogen bonds.

[0179] As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, preferably glycerin, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.

[0180] The additional active ingredient(s) may in particular be chosen from: - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopheryl acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3 - humectants such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, and xylitylglucoside, and in particular glycerol; - C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantiol, notably marketed under the name Mexoryl SBB® or Mexoryl SCN® by Chimex; - antioxidant compounds; - known anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; - organic or inorganic, insoluble or soluble, lipophilic or hydrophilic or particulate sunscreens.

[0181] The UV filter is a UV filter commonly used in cosmetics. It can be chosen from the positive list contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009, which specifies the list of UV filters authorized in cosmetics.

[0182] The UV filters suitable for the invention may be of different natures.

[0183] They can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic.

[0184] By “lipophilic UV filter” is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0185] By “hydrophilic UV filter” is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0186] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter which is neither defined as a lipophilic UV filter nor as a hydrophilic UV filter, and which present in the form of particles in aqueous or liquid fatty phase.

[0187] The UV filters considered according to the invention can provide UVA and / or UVB photoprotection.

[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention, preferably cosmetic, may comprise at least one organic and / or mineral UV filter (UV radiation filters from sunlight).

[0189] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV filter chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters, insoluble organic UV filters, mineral filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0190] In particular, a composition may comprise one or more UV filters chosen from bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] The organic UV filters may also be chosen from anthranilics; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in US patent 5,624,663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, as described in patents EP 6,693,23 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives, as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole derivatives, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665;dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; merocyanine derivatives described in applications WO 04006878, WO 05058269 and WO 06032741 and mixtures thereof.;

[0192] According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of organic UV filters in a composition according to the invention varies from 1% to 50%, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and again for example varies from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] A composition according to the invention may also comprise mineral UV filters which are generally pigments. The pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0194] Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0195] In a known manner, silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.

[0196] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular, alkyl silanes.

[0197] The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferably, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes.

[0198] Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones, may have been treated with other surface agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures.

[0199] Thus, the mineral UV filters can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular from coated titanium oxide pigments, titanium oxides treated with a silicone, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name “Sunveil A”, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product “M 261” sold by the company Kemira or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product “M 211” sold by the company Kemira.

[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of the mineral UV filter(s) present in a composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It varies, for example, from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more organic UV filters and one or more mineral UV filters.

[0203] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a combination of UV filters as described in patent FR 2 977 490, application WO 2013 / 004777 or application US 2014 / 0134120.

[0204] - veinotonics, such as polyphenols, and in particular escin, ruscus, diosmin, hesperidin, resveratrol, and - their mixtures.

[0205] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant), in particular for a care application.

[0206] Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerin.

[0207] The moisturizing agent(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, or even from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0208] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient, in particular chosen from anti-aging agents, moisturizing agents, preferably glycerin, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Such active ingredients may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.15% to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 23% by weight, or even from 1.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycoside compounds

[0210] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular of the following general formula:

[0211] [Chem.l] "X—R

[0212] in which: - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0213] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be mentioned: - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0214] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.

[0215] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above suitable for the invention may preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Te-trahydropyrantriol, notably marketed under the name Mexoryl SBB® or Mexoryl SCN® by Chimex.

[0216] Salts of C-glycosides suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

[0217] By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0218] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include

[0219]

[0220]

[0221]

[0222] conventional solvates such as those formed during the last stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, we can cite solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol. The C-glycosides of the formula illustrated above are known from WO 02 / 051828. Salicylic acid compounds In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional cosmetic active agent chosen from salicylic acid compounds. The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula: [Chem. 2] O

[0223]

[0224] in which: - the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group; as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base. Preferably, the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups under free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as their salts obtained by salification by a mineral or organic base.

[0225] The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C3-Cn alkyl group.

[0226] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0227] The salicylic acid compound is preferably selected from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

[0228] The salts of the compounds of formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, mention may be made of alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

[0229] Among the organic bases, amines and alkanolamines may be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

[0230] The compounds of formula illustrated above which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378 936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, EP-A-570,230.

[0231] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), dispersing agents, cosmetic active ingredients such as, for example, healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and / or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0232] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one nacre as an additive. Among the nacres that may be envisaged, mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration and without limitation, of natural nacres, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored mica-titanium, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic composition

[0234] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.

[0235] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0236] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0237] A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for topical application.

[0238] For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may have the form in particular of an aqueous or oily solution or of a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of the ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0239] In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil, in the form of an anhydrous composition, in the form of an aqueous composition, or in the form of a bi-gel (or gel-gel) composition. A gel-gel composition is different from an emulsion.

[0240] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0241] According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, preferably a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0242] Preferably, a composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 3 Pa.s and 50 Pa.s, preferably between 3.5 Pa.s and 20 Pa.s, measured using a rheometer of the Rhéomat RM 200 type from Lamy Rheology with a spindle which is adapted to the level of viscosity measured, for example at a speed of 200 rpm.

[0243] In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition varies from 4 to 7.5.

[0244] A composition according to the invention can be characterized by Haze measurements and transparency (TH transmission).

[0245] “Haze” corresponds to the percentage of scattered light relative to the total transmittance according to ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).

[0246] 50 µm films of composition are applied to 50 µm polyethylene (PE) films. The film is then measured after one hour of drying at room temperature. Finally, the film is placed in the apparatus and transparency and haze measurements are carried out.

[0247] Measurements can be carried out using a Hazegard (Hazegard plus C®, BYKGardner).

[0248] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention has a transmittance greater than 85%, and more preferably greater than 90%.

[0249] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention has a Haze value at t = 1 second greater than 70%.

[0250] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0251] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin and / or keratin fibers, in particular the body or the face, in particular the face.

[0252] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, of the lips in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, and / or of the lips, and / or for the makeup of the skin and / or of the lips.

[0253] Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, lips, in particular care products, sun protection and daily photoprotection products and makeup products.

[0254] The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of skin or semi-mucous membrane care products, such as a protective composition, cosmetic care for the face, for the lips, for the hands, for the feet, for anatomical folds or for the body (for example day creams, night cream, day serum, night serum, make-up remover cream, make-up base, anti-sun composition, protective or care body milk, after-sun milk, lotion, gel or mousse for skin or scalp care, serum, mask or after-shave composition).

[0255] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as a care product and / or sun protection and daily photoprotection for the face and / or body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as lotions, milks, creams of varying thickness, gels, gel-creams. They may be packaged in aerosol cans and come in the form of mousse or spray.

[0256] In particular, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0257] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.

[0258] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a lip product.

[0259] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0260] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

[0261] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0262] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of the occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended for example to be applied locally to the skin. Examples of cosmetic supports include a patch, a wipe, a roll-on, a mask or a pen.

[0263] Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying directly to said keratin materials, a composition as defined above.

[0264] According to another embodiment, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied to said keratin materials, such as a patch, a wipe, a roll-on or a pen, and preferably a wipe.

[0265] In particular, a composition according to the invention can be used for the purpose of combating the signs of skin aging.

[0266] Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging.

[0267] Indeed, a composition in accordance with the present invention advantageously makes it possible to effectively reduce the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines.

[0268] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for improving the homogeneity of the complexion, for reducing and / or preventing the characteristics of wrinkles and / or fine lines, for improving and / or reducing the micro-relief of the skin, and / or for reducing and / or removing spots, and / or for smoothing the skin and / or for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or stimulating epidermal renewal.

[0269] Preferably, it relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to reduce and / or prevent the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, to improve and / or reduce the micro-relief of the skin, and / or to smooth the skin and / or to promote desquamation of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal.

[0270] Preferably, the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

[0271] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0272] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0273] In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are weight percentages (i.e. mass percentages). The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0274] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Measurement methods

[0275] In the detailed examples below, the following measurement methods are used.

[0276] Soft-focus measurement protocol (blurring effect)

[0277] The determination of soft-focus (blurring effect) is done by measuring Haze and transparency, that is to say the perception of light at wide angles.

[0278] The measurements are carried out using a Hazegard (Hazegard plus C®, BYKGardner) on a 50 qm thick film, deposited on a PET film (PA-2871®, BYK10 Gardner). Three measurements are carried out after 1 hour of drying at room temperature.

[0279] The sensitivity of the measurement method for Haze is + / - 0.3. Viscosity measurement protocol

[0280] The viscosity of the formulas was measured using a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 200 rheometer with spindle 4 (3 to 96 Pa.s) at a speed of 200 rpm. The measurements are expressed in Pa.s and determined at room temperature (25°C), 24 hours after manufacture (t24h) and after 2 months (t2months), the value being taken after 10 minutes of shear (T 10min) (at T25°C / 45°C). Stability assessment

[0281] A macroscopic evaluation of the formulas is carried out: color, appearance and odor of the formula and also an evaluation by optical microscopy (x20 in unpolarized and polarized white light). The viscosity and pH of the formula are measured at several times / temperatures: after 24 hours at 25°C and after 2 months at 25°C and 45°C.

[0282] The sensitivity of the viscosity measurement method is + / - 2.4 Pa.S. Sensory study protocol

[0283] The study is carried out on a panel of 5 experienced people: the evaluation is done on the back of the hand with a quantity of 50pl, several sensory criteria are noted specifically, namely the criteria fresh effect, dry effect, sticky effect, play-time, and the plush effect (presence / appearance of pilling). Example 1: Compositions 1 to 3

[0284] The compositions (1) according to the invention and (2) and (3) outside the invention, in the form of direct emulsions, were prepared from the compounds and contents detailed in Table 1 below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] [Tables 1] Phase Nam tamïaesAB / ' Csæpesê çu sosa ING Formula 1 according to FiayestioH Formula 2 outside invention Formula 3 outside entiun A Glycol 2.;00 2 A Cosseivatews 1.00 LvO 1.00 A Water W iœ WW qsp 500 A Glycerin 7,.00 7,00 7.00 A Chelatant 040 040 040 A Pcdoxamer 338 0.30 0.30: 0.30 B ARLACEL® 165 / CRODA Glyceryi Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 2.50 2.5Û 2.56 B guetbet alcohol 2.00 2 AB fatty acid. 1.80 1.80 L < B Beeswax 2 B Fatty alcohol 140 1.50 B Hydrogenated Jojobs oil 2.00 - B antioxidant: Q2Q7 0.07 0.07 B LIPEX® SHEASOFT / AARHUSKARLSH AMN BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEAj BUTTER / BUT YRQSPER MUM PARKII BUTTER 5.00 C Polyacrylainide (and) C13-14 Lsoparaffm. (and) Laurdh-7 1 v5û 1.50 1.50 C Xanthan Gum 045 045 c 15 C polymer polysaccharide 2.00 2.00 2.01; (DOW CHEMICAL) Silica Silyhte - D CELLULOBEADS ® USF / DAITO KASEIKOGYO Cellulose 1.50 1.50 Table 1 Preparation of the compositions

[0286] Each raw material of phase A was introduced into a beaker. Then, this phase was heated to 60°C. Then, the raw materials of phase B previously heated to around 65-70°C were added. The mixture was emulsified under high-speed emulsifier. Once the emulsion was made, each of the raw materials of phases C to D was introduced, at room temperature.

[0287] Three white creams are obtained. Sensory results

[0288] The sensory qualities of compositions (2) and (3) outside the invention and (1) according to the invention were tested. Table 2 below shows the criteria tested and the assessments.

[0289] [Tables2] Qualities Formula 1 according to the invention Formula! outside the invention Formula 3 outside the invention Dry effect (very dry e to -HF not dry) FEE -r-É Finished play (long E to reduced efe):| | j •e-é- Plush effect (significant e to existing EHm) EEE "Ert—F Fiais effect (+ significant to eee .nonexistent) -H- Sticky effect (+ nuportant to +++ little) E+E 'T' Table 2

[0290] The composition (1) according to the invention and the composition (2) outside the invention have good sensoriality. In particular, they do not fluff.

[0291] In particular, sensory studies have demonstrated that the composition (1) according to the invention provides a non-dry effect, a fresh effect and a low-stickiness effect during and after application.

[0292] Composition (1) according to the invention shows a non-degraded sensory quality compared to composition (2) outside the invention, i.e. composition (1) according to the invention keeps the same (close) levels of sensory qualities as formula (2) outside the invention. Haze results

[0293] Haze measurements to evaluate the blurring (soft-focus) of the compositions (1) according to the invention and of the compositions (2) and (3) outside the invention were carried out.

[0294] The results are detailed in Table 3 below.

[0295] [Tables3] Formulas Formula 1 according to the invention Formula 2 outside the invention Formula 3 outside the invention Haze (%) 93.4 3 LS 07.5 Table 3

[0296] The composition (1) according to the invention therefore has a level of blurring effect optimal compared to compositions outside the invention. Stability results

[0297] Compositions (2) and (3) outside the invention and (1) according to the invention were also tested in terms of stability, whether in terms of odor, color, pH and viscosity, after 24 hours (t24h) at 25°C (Tamb) and over time after two months (t2months) at 25°C (Tamb) and at 45°C.

[0298] The viscosity and pH results are detailed in Table 4 below.

[0299] [Tables4] Viscosity values ​​Formula 1 according to the invention Formula 2 outside the invention Formula 3 outside the invention Viscosity at t24h and at Tsa^. at 10 min 6.4 Fa. 5.7 Pa.s 6.9 Pm pH at t24h and at 6.4 6.5 6.4 Viscosity at bmœs and at Ts*, at 10 min 5.9 7.8 Pa.s 7.6 Pa.s pH S- ts aïoü cl- T'anih 6.4 6.4 6.4 Viscosity at Emoi* and at Tw, at 10 min 8.71¾. s 8.3 Pa.s 6.9 Pa.s pH at basa and at Tst 6.4 6.4 6.4 Table 4

[0300] All three formulas prove to have satisfactory stability. Indeed, the measurements remain within the standard deviations of each measurement and / or are acceptable for the stability of cosmetic creams.

[0301] In conclusion, it appears that only formula (1) according to the invention makes it possible to satisfy all of the expectations, namely good sensory qualities associated with a satisfactory blurring effect and stability.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one particulate cellulose compound; - at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and - at least one wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C, said composition comprising at least hydrogenated jojoba oil as wax of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C

2. V-. Composition according to claim 1, in which the particulate cellulose compound(s) are chosen from cellulose compounds in the form of spheres, cellulose compounds in the form of fibers, and mixtures thereof, and preferably are chosen from cellulose compounds in the form of spheres.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the particulate cellulose compound(s) are chosen from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, preferably from spherical cellulose beads, and more preferably from porous spherical cellulose beads.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of particulate cellulose compound(s) varies from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name silica silylate).

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles varies from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of wax(es) of plant origin having a melting point above 25°C ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one gelling agent, and in particular at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, and in particular chosen from glycerol and fatty acid esters, non-ionic copolymers with three poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) blocks, and mixtures thereof.

11. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.