Composition comprising two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids and a skin-conditioning active agent

Abstract

Composition comprising two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and a skin-care active agent. The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one optional oil; (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 13.0 or more, preferably 13.5 or more, and more preferably 14.0 or more; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.0 or less, and more preferably 8.0 or less; (d) at least one skin-care active agent; and (e) water, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 3.0 or more, preferably 4.0 or more, and even more preferably 5.0 or more;The weight ratio of the amount of oil (a) to the total amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 0.5 or less; and the composition comprises 0.1% by weight or less of anionic surfactant(s), preferably 0.01% by weight or less of anionic surfactant(s), and more preferably no anionic surfactant. The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, although it comprises at least two different types of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and at least one skin-conditioning active agent. Figure for the abstract: NONE;

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids and a skin-care active agent. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least two polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, as well as at least one active skin-care agent, within the context of art

[0002] Oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as milks, creams, toners, serums and lotions.

[0003] In particular, a fine emulsion such as a nano- or micro-oil / water emulsion is particularly interesting in cosmetic products because of its transparent or slightly translucent appearance.

[0004] On the other hand, compositions including a fatty acid polyglyceryl ester are known in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology. Fatty acid polyglyceryl esters can function as surfactants and can therefore be used to prepare, typically, emulsions such as oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are preferable for environmental reasons, such as a low environmental impact, compared to polyoxyethylene-based surfactants.

[0005] Document WO 2020 / 110716 discloses a composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising at least two different types of fatty acid polyglyceryl esters. disclosure of the invention

[0006] However, the composition disclosed in document WO 2020 / 110716 has been found to be unstable such that it can no longer be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion when a skin care active agent such as lactic acid and niacinamide is added to the composition.

[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion which comprises at least two different types of fatty acid polyglyceryl esters even when the composition also includes a skin care active agent.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:

[0009] (a) at least one optional oil;

[0010] (b) at least a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 13.0 or more, preferably 13.5 or more, and even more preferably 14.0 or more;

[0011] (c) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.0 or less, and even more preferably 8.0 or less;

[0012] (d) at least one active skin-care agent; and

[0013] (e) water,

[0014] in which

[0015] the weight ratio of the quantity of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the quantity of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 3.0 or more, preferably 4.0 or more, and more preferably 5.0 or more,

[0016] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) oil to the total quantity of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 0.5 or less, and

[0017] the composition comprises 0.1% by weight or less of anionic surfactant(s), preferably 0.01% by weight or less of anionic surfactant(s), and more preferably no anionic surfactant.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may have a turbidity of 300 NTU or less, preferably 200 NTU or less, and more preferably 100 NTU or less.

[0019] The (a) oil can be chosen from among the polar oils.

[0020] The oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 2 to 4 glycerol motifs, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol motifs, and more preferably 4 glycerol motifs.

[0022] The fatty acid fraction of (b) the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 12 carbon atoms or less, preferably 11 carbon atoms or less, and more preferably 10 carbon atoms or less.

[0023] The (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 2 to 4 glycerol motifs, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol motifs, and more preferably 2 glycerol motifs.

[0024] The fatty acid fraction of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 carbon atoms or plus, and preferably 18 or more carbon atoms.

[0025] The total amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more of the composition.

[0026] The (d) skin care active agent may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, niacinamide and their mixtures.

[0027] The quantity of (d) skin care active agent may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The pH of the composition can be between 3.5 and 9.0, preferably between 4.0 and 8.0, more preferably between 4.5 and 7.0, and even more preferably between 4.0 and 6.0.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-oil emulsion. The particle size of (a) oil may be less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 200 nm, and more preferably less than or equal to 100 nm.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0031] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion which includes at least two different types of fatty acid polyglyceryl esters even when the composition also includes a skin care active agent.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion although it comprises at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters as well as at least one active skin care agent.

[0033] One of the distinctive features of the composition according to the present invention is a combination:

[0034] of at least a first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having a higher HLB value; and

[0035] of at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having a lower HLB value.

[0036] The HLB value of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may belong to a higher HLB numerical range, the HLB value of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may belong to a lower HLB numerical range, and the range The upper HLB digital range and the lower HLB digital range do not overlap.

[0037] Another feature of the composition according to the present invention is the presence thereof of at least one active skin-care agent with the above-mentioned combination of first and second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters. Although the composition according to the present invention comprises an active skin-care agent, it can be stable so that it can retain the form of a nano- or microemulsion.

[0038] One aspect of the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:

[0039] (a) at least one optional oil;

[0040] (b) at least a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 13.0 or more, preferably 13.5 or more, and even more preferably 14.0 or more;

[0041] (c) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.0 or less, and even more preferably 8.0 or less;

[0042] (d) at least one active skin-care agent; and

[0043] (e) water,

[0044] in which

[0045] the weight ratio of the quantity of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the quantity of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 3.0 or more, preferably 4.0 or more, and more preferably 5.0 or more,

[0046] the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) oil to the total quantity of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 0.5 or less, and

[0047] the composition comprises 0.1% by weight or less of anionic surfactant(s), preferably 0.01% by weight or less of anionic surfactant(s), and more preferably no anionic surfactant.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent as it may have a turbidity of 300 NTU or less, preferably 200 NTU or less, and more preferably 100 NTU or less.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared without a large amount of energy such as that required by a homogenizer. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared using a small amount of energy such as gentle stirring of the ingredients of the composition. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly from the point of view of its preparation.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0051] [Oil]

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one optional oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0053] Herein, "oil" means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0054] The (a) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

[0055] The (a) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0056] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0058] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0059] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0060] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0061] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0062] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, can also be used.

[0063] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0064] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids, and preferably C12-C22, can be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0065] Examples of suitable sugars that can be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0066] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C6-C30 and preferably in Ci2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0067] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.

[0068] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0069] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleos-tearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0070] One example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0071] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithryl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), succinate 2-ethylhexyl, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0073] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyl-hydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dode-camethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0075] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones usable according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organo-functional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0076] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0077] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold notably under the names Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the names Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as that the Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0078] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and i. Volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics." The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0079] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0080] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0081] - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 range or Mirasil® commercial oils specialized by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0082] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0083] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200, of which the viscosity is 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0084] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the range SF (SF 96, SF 18) of the General Electric company.

[0085] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0086] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

[0087] The phenylsilicone oil can be selected from the phenylsilicones of the following formula:

[0088] in which

[0089] Ri at Rio, independently of each other, are Ci-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably Ci-C6 hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0090] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0091] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0092] By way of example, products sold under the following names may be included:

[0093] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;

[0094] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 range from Rhodia;

[0095] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0096] - silicones from the PK range of Bayer, such as product PK20;

[0097] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0098] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl groups; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0099] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0100] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0101] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0102] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as than liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and squalane.

[0103] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0104] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and even more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0105] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0106] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0107] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0108] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, saturated, and more preferably linear or branched Ci2-C20 alcohols, saturated.

[0109] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from among all saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched, in the C6-C30 range. Among the saturated fatty alcohols in the C6-C30 range, linear or branched, the saturated fatty alcohols in the C2-C20 range, linear or branched, may be used preferably. All saturated fatty alcohols in the C6-C20 range, linear or branched, may be used even more preferably. Branched fatty alcohols in the C6-C20 range may be used even more preferably.

[0110] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

[0111] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] It is also preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0113] Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isonyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (Ci2-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

[0114] It is preferable that (a) oil be chosen from among polar oils, and more preferably from among ester oils.

[0115] The (a) oil may constitute dispersed phases of the composition according to the present invention, with or without any other possible hydrophobic ingredient(s) of the composition.

[0116] The (a) oil is optional. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may or may not include the (a) oil. If the composition according to the present invention does not include the (a) oil, the dispersed phases of the composition according to the present invention may be formed by, at least, the (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, explained below.

[0117] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include (a) oil. If the composition according to the present invention includes (a) oil, it may be possible to provide skin hydration effects through (a) oil and / or improve the penetration of (d) the active skin-care agent, explained below.

[0118] The amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] The quantity of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] The quantity of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] [First fatty acid polyglyceryl ester]

[0122] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 13.0 or more, preferably 13.5 or more, and more preferably 14.0 or more. Only one type of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, but two or more different types of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used in combination.

[0123] The (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.

[0124] The (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 13.0 to 17.0, preferably 13.5 to 16.0, and more preferably 14.0 to 15.0.

[0125] The term HLB (for "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

[0126] If two or more (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0127] The (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from mono, di, tri and more saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) esters.

[0128] It is preferable that the (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprise 2 to 4 glycerol motifs, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol motifs, and more preferably 4 glycerol motifs.

[0129] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of (b) the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may comprise 12 carbon atoms or fewer, preferably 11 carbon atoms or fewer, and more preferably 10 carbon atoms or fewer. The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of (b) the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may comprise 4 carbon atoms or more, preferably 6 carbon atoms or more, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms or more. The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of (b) the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may have from 4 to 12, preferably from 6 to 11, and more preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0130] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid.

[0131] The first (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of caprate PG3 (HLB: approximately 14), caprylate PG4 (HLB: 14), laurate PG4 (HLB: approximately 14), caprate PG4 (HLB: 14), myristate PG5 (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 laurate (HLB: 15.2), PG10 myristate (HLB: 14.9), PG10 stearate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.7), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 cocoate (HLB: 16), and mixtures thereof.

[0132] It may be preferable that the (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) be / are selected from the group consisting of caprate PG3 (HLB: about 14), caprylate PG4 (HLB: 14), laurate PG4 (HLB: about 14), caprate PG4 (HLB: 14), and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] On the other hand, the quantity of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] The quantity of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] The weight ratio of the quantity of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) / the quantity of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and more preferably 2 or more.

[0137] The weight ratio of the quantity of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) / the quantity of the oil(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9 or less.

[0138] The weight ratio of the quantity of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) to the quantity of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1 to 10, preferably from 1.5 to 9.5, and more preferably from 2 to 9.

[0139] [Second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester]

[0140] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.0 or less, and more preferably 8.0 or less. Only one type of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, but two or more different types of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used in combination.

[0141] The (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.

[0142] The (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 5.0 to 10.0, preferably 6.0 to 9.0, and more preferably 7.0 to 8.0.

[0143] If two or more (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0144] The (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from mono, di, tri and more saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s) esters.

[0145] It is preferable that the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprise 2 to 4 glycerol motifs, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol motifs, and more preferably 2 glycerol motifs.

[0146] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 30 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 24 or fewer carbon atoms, and more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms. The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction or the fatty acid fraction of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have from 14 to 30, preferably from 16 to 24, and more preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0147] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction of the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and oleic acid.

[0148] The (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: approximately 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG5 trioleate (HLB: 4.0) : 7. 0), pentaoleate PG10 (HLB: 6.4), sesquicaprylate PG2 (HLB: about 8), caprate PG2 (HLB: 9.5), laurate PG2 (HLB: 8.5), myristate PG2 (HLB: 10), isopalmitate PG2 (HLB: 9), oleate PG4 (HLB: 10), stearate PG4 (HLB: 9), isostearate PG4 (HLB: 8.2), distearate PG6 (HLB: 8), distearate PG10 (HLB: about 9), tristearate PG10 (HLB: 8), diisostearate PG10 (HLB: 10), triisostearate PG10 (HLB: 8), tricocoate PG10 (HLB: 9) and mixtures thereof.

[0149] It may be preferable that the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be chosen in the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: approximately 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: approximately 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 myristate (HLB: 10), isopalmitate PG2 (HLB: 9), oleate PG4 (HLB: 10), stearate PG4 (HLB: 9), isostearate PG4 (HLB: 8.2), and mixtures thereof.

[0150] The amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] On the other hand, the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] The amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] The weight ratio of the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.2 or more, and more preferably 0.25 or more.

[0154] The weight ratio of the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of the oil(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 4 or less, preferably 3 or less, and more preferably 2 or less.

[0155] The weight ratio of the quantity of the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters to the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.2 and 3, and more preferably between 0.25 and 2.

[0156] [Weight ratio of oil / first and second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters].

[0157] According to the present invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) oil / (the total quantity of the (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) and the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester) is 0.5 or less, preferably 0.45 or less, and more preferably 0.4 or less.

[0158] The weight ratio of the quantity of (a) oil / (the total quantity of the) (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be 0.01 or more, preferably 0.03 or more, and more preferably 0.05 or more.

[0159] The weight ratio of the quantity of (a) oil / (the total quantity of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) and (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s)) may be from 0.01 to 0.5, preferably from 0.03 to 0.45, and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.4.

[0160] [Weight ratio of first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester].

[0161] The weight ratio of the amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 3.0 or more, preferably 4.0 or more, and more preferably 5.0 or more.

[0162] The weight ratio of the amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be 20 or less, preferably 19 or less, and more preferably 18 or less.

[0163] The weight ratio of the amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be from 3.0 to 20, preferably from 4.0 to 19, and more preferably from 5.0 to 18.

[0164] [Skin care active ingredient]

[0165] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one active skin care agent. If two or more active skin care agents are used, they may be identical or different.

[0166] It is preferable that the (d) skin care active agent has a logP value between -4.5 and 4.5, preferably between -4.0 and 4.0, and more preferably between -3.5 and 3.5.

[0167] A log P value is the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol / water partition coefficient. Log P values ​​are known and are determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of compound (c) in octan-l-ol and water. Log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages that determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. For example, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Epiwin software.

[0168] The values ​​can be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris V4.67 software; they can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobia, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also a website that provides values. estimated (address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0169] The (d) active skin care ingredient may be in the form of a salt. Salts of the (d) active skin care ingredient include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or a base.

[0170] Preferably the (d) skin care active ingredient is a cosmetic skin care active ingredient, and more preferably a skin exfoliating agent, a skin bleaching agent, or a skin anti-aging agent such as an anti-wrinkle agent.

[0171] As (d) active skin care ingredient, mention may be made of vitamin B3 and its derivatives.

[0172] Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula:

[0173] in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0174] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, niacinamide-derived amides by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -C0NH2, reaction products with carboxylic acids and amino acids, nicotinic alcohol esters and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0175] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quino-leinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0176] Other derivatives of vitamin B3 that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

[0177] As (d) active skin care ingredient, mention may be made of ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

[0178] Ascorbic acid is generally in L form, as it is usually extracted from natural products.

[0179] Because of its chemical structure (α-keto lactone) which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat and aqueous media, it may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of a derivative or analogue chosen, for example, from ascorbic acid saccharide esters or phosphoryl ascorbic acid metal salts, alkali metal salts, esters and sugars.

[0180] The saccharide esters of ascorbic acid usable in the present invention include, in particular, glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramine derivatives of ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, and in particular ascorbyl glucoside such as ascorbyl-2 glucoside, 2-OaD-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds and their preparation processes are described in particular in documents EP-A-0 487 404, EP-A-0 425 066 and JP 05 213 736.

[0181] As regards the metallic salt of phosphorylascorbic acid, it may be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, in particular sodium ascorbyl phosphates of alkaline earth metals and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0182] It is also possible to use ascorbic acid precursors such as active agent amides and saccharide derivatives of active agents, which respectively involve proteases or peptidases and glycosidases as enzymes to release ascorbic acid in situ. Such compounds are described in patent EP 0 667 145.

[0183] The saccharide derivatives of the active agent are in particular selected from C3 to C6 saccharide derivatives. They are in particular selected from glucosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, galactosyl and N-acetylgalactosamine derivatives, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives and sialic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0184] Secondary precursors of ascorbic acid may be selected from derivatives hydrolyzed by other enzymes, for example, esterases, phosphatases, sulfatases, etc. According to the present invention, secondary precursors of the active agent may be selected, for example, from phosphates; sulfates; palmitates; acetates; propionates; ferulates; and, in general, alkyl or acyl esters of the active agent; acyl or alkyl ethers. The acyl and alkyl radicals, in particular, contain from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid may be cited as an active ingredient in skincare.

[0185] In particular, the second precursor may be an ester resulting from the reaction with a mineral acid such as a sulfate or phosphate to react with a sulfatase or phosphatase upon contact with the skin, and the second precursor may be an acyl ester or alkyl resulting from the reaction with an organic acid, for example palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, nicotinic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid or ferulic acid to react with a specific skin esterase.

[0186] Other derivatives are described, for example, in patent EP 1 430 883.

[0187] Ascorbic acid analogues are, more particularly, its salts, especially alkali metal salts, for example sodium ascorbate, its esters, especially such as its acetic, propionic or palmitic esters, or its sugars, especially such as glycosyl ascorbic acid.

[0188] As (d) skin care active ingredient, one can cite resorcinol derivatives.

[0189] Resorcinol derivatives may preferably be derivatives substituted with Position 4, such as 4-alkylresorcinols, most preferably phenylethylresorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol, and 4-(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl)benzene-1,3-diol, and especially phenylethylresorcinol due to its whitening effect. Phenylethyl resorcinol is also called 4-(l-phenylethyl)-l,3-benzenediol and is represented by the following chemical formula. Phenylethyl resorcinol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (product name: Symwhite 377®). HÛ x Jx OH

[0190] Other examples of resorcinol derivatives include: 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,4-dimethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine, 5-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 2-methoxyresorcinol, 4-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxytoluene monohydrate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 3',5'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-propylresorcinol, 2,4-Dihydroxy-1,3,5-trimethylbenzene, 3,5-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 3,5-dihydroxyanisole hydrate, 4-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 2-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 5-aminobenzene-1,3-diol hydrochloride, 2',4'-dihydroxypropiophenone, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylacetophenone, (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone,(3,5-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, , 2,6-Dihydroxy-4'-methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2,4-diethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoic acid 3,5-Dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5-methoxybenzene-1,3-diol, 4-amino-3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyacetophenone monohydrate, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine hydrochloride, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylpropiophenone, l-(3-ethyl-2, 6-dihydroxyphenyl)ethan-l-one, 2',6'-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyacetophenone, l-(2,6-dihydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)ethan-l-one, acid 3(2,4-dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid, and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoic acid.

[0191] As (d) active skin care ingredient, C-glycoside derivatives may be mentioned.

[0192] The C-glycoside derivative(s) that may be present in the composition according to the present invention may be selected from the compounds of general formula (II) below: (n) S' "X—R

[0193] in which:

[0194] R represents a linear alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and in particular in unsubstituted Ci-C2, in particular methyl;

[0195] S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; and

[0196] X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and preferably a -CH(OH)- group,

[0197] and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0198] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside derivatives which are particularly suitable for use in the present invention, the following derivatives may be mentioned in particular:

[0199] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

[0200] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

[0201] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0202] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0203] l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0204] l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxpropane;

[0205] l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0206] l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0207] 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

[0208] 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

[0209] l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxpropane;

[0210] l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0211] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0212] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and even better C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, can be advantageously used for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention.

[0213] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside derivative suitable for the present invention may advantageously be hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, also known as C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxpropane, sold in particular as a 30% by weight solution in a water / propylene glycol (60 / 40) mixture under the name Mexoryl SBB® by Chimex. In one embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative is in the form of a solution in which it is present at a concentration of 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, the remainder being a mixture of water and propylene glycol.

[0214] Salts of C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or mineral acids. Examples include salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids, or aromatic acids. These acids may also include one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen and nitrogen, for example, in the form of hydroxyl groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0215] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0216] A suitable C-glycoside derivative for use in the present invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051 828, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0217] As an active skincare ingredient (d), mention may be made of salicylic acid and its derivatives. Salicylic acid derivatives may be represented by formula (III): î r Oh

[0218] in which

[0219] the radical R designates a saturated, linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and

[0220] R' is a hydroxyl group. The salicylic acid derivative can be in the form of a salt derived from an inorganic or organic base.

[0221] The (d) skin active agent may be selected from α-hydroxy acids.

[0222] The term “α-hydroxy acid”, or “AHA”, here refers to a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0223] Alpha-hydroxy acid can function as a skin-scrubbing agent. It may be preferable to use an alpha-hydroxy acid that can function as a mild skin-scrubbing agent.

[0224] The α-hydroxy acid may be selected from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from lactic acid, glycolic acid and citric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably being lactic acid.

[0225] It is preferable that the (d) skin care active agent be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, niacinamide and their mixtures.

[0226] The amount of (d) skin-care active agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or plus, and preferably more than 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] On the other hand, the quantity of (d) skin care active agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] The quantity of (d) skin care active agent in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] If the (d) skin care active agent is lactic acid, its quantity may be between 0.1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 9.5% by weight, and more preferably between 0.3% and 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] If the (d) skin care active agent is niacinamide, its quantity may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 18% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] [Water]

[0232] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

[0233] Water (e) can form an aqueous phase which is a continuous phase of the composition according to the present invention, with or without other possible hydrophilic ingredient(s) of the composition.

[0234] The quantity of water (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or more, preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] On the other hand, the quantity of water (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 95% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 90% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The quantity of water (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 60% and 95% by weight, preferably between 65% and 90% by weight, more preferably between 70% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] [Polyol]

[0238] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types. polyols can be used in combination.

[0239] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0240] The polyol may be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0241] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0242] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.

[0243] The amount of polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0244] On the other hand, the quantity of polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] Thus, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0246] [Other ingredients]

[0247] The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more monoalcohols which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25°C), such as linear or branched monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol and hexanol.

[0248] The quantity of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be equal to or greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably equal to or greater than 1% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0249] On the other hand, the quantity of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] Thus, the quantity of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants classically used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers; anionic, non-ionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants; thickeners; antioxidants; coloring agents; chelating agents; sequestering agents; perfumes; dispersing agents; conditioning agents; film-forming agents; preservatives; co-preservatives; and mixtures thereof, with the exception of the ingredients explained above.

[0252] The composition according to the present invention is free of anionic surfactant. The term "free" here means that the composition according to the present invention may include one or more anionic surfactants, but the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) is very limited, such that it is 0.1% by weight or less, preferably 0.01% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.001% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is most preferable that the composition according to the present invention include no anionic surfactant at all.

[0253] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be free of polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant. The term "free" here means that the composition according to the present invention may include a polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant, but the amount of polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant is very limited, such that it is 1% by weight or less, preferably less than 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is most preferable that the composition according to the present invention include no polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant.

[0254] (Preparation)

[0255] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0256] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0257] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared without a large amount of energy such as that required by a homogenizer. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared using a small amount of energy such as the gentle stirring of the ingredients of the composition. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly from the point of view of its preparation.

[0258] [Form]

[0259] The composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0260] The "micro-emulsion" can be defined in two ways, namely, in a broad sense and in a strict sense. Namely, there is one case ("micro-emulsion in the strict sense") in which the micro-emulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients: an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and there is the second case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense") in which, among the typically thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the micro-emulsion further includes emulsions of this type exhibiting transparent or translucent aspects due to their small particle size (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). The term “micro-emulsion” as used here refers to a “micro-emulsion in the strict sense”, that is, a thermodynamically stable, isotropic single liquid phase.

[0261] Microemulsion refers to one of the following states: an H / W (oil-in-water) type microemulsion in which the oil is solubilized by micelles, an W / O (water-in-oil) type microemulsion in which the water is solubilized by inverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules is made infinite so that both the aqueous phase and the oily phase have a continuous structure.

[0262] The micro-emulsion may have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, and more preferably 20 nm or less, measured by laser particle size analysis.

[0263] By “nano-emulsion”, we mean an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase whose size is less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a ring of non-ionic surfactants (b) to (d) which may optionally form a lamellar-type liquid crystal phase at the dispersed phase / continuous phase. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of nanoemulsions comes from the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size being obtained through the use of mechanical energy.

[0264] Nanoemulsions are distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. More precisely, microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, from micelles made up of ingredients (b) and (c) and swollen by ingredient (a). Furthermore, microemulsions do not require significantly high mechanical energy to be prepared.

[0265] The nano-emulsion may have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, measured by laser particle size analysis.

[0266] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention shall be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed oily phases may be oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[0267] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of oily phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore if the composition according to the present invention has the H / W architecture or structure, it can provide a pleasant sensation during use because of the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[0268] It is even more preferable that the particle size of (a) oil be less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 200 nm, more preferably less than or equal to 100 nm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 50 nm. The particle size can be measured by a dynamic light scattering method. The particle size measurement can be carried out, for example, by the ELSZ-2000 series particle size analyzer, marketed by Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.

[0269] The particle size may be a volume-average particle diameter or a number-average particle diameter, preferably a volume-average particle diameter.

[0270] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or slightly translucent.

[0271] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by Hach Company) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. Whiteness can be determined with distilled water.

[0272] The composition according to the present invention has a turbidity of less than or equal to 300 NTU, preferably less than or equal to 200 NTU, more preferably less than or equal to 100 NTU, and even more preferably less than or equal to 50 NTU.

[0273] [Use and process]

[0274] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0275] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratinous substance.

[0276] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0277] The present invention may also relate to the use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skin care products for the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0278] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0279] The care product can be a lotion, a serum and others. EXAMPLES

[0280] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0281] [Example 1 and comparative examples 1 and 2]

[0282] The following compositions according to Example 1 and comparative examples 1 and 2, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows.

[0283] The compositions according to example 1 and comparative examples 1-2 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0284] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0285] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 1 comp. Ex. 2 comp. Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Glycerin 10 10 10 Propylene glycol 3 3 3 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 Sodium lauroyl glutamate - 0.2 0.2 Xanthan gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14, 90% active) 1.8 1 1 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 8) 0.3 0.33 0.33 Isopropyl myristate 0.5 1 1 Lactic acid 3 3 - Niacinamide 5 5 - Sodium hydroxide q.s. pH 4.1 q.s. pH 4.1 q.s. pH 5.5 Total (%) 100 100 100 Weight ratio of PG surfactant with high HLB / PG surfactant with low HLB: 5.4 2.7 2.7 Oil (%) 0.5 1 1 Surfactants (%) 1.92 1.23 1.23 Oil / surfactant weight ratio: 0.26 0.81 0.81 Turbidity (NTU) 17.5 >800 60.9 Mean droplet size (nm) 18.9 NT 20.2

[0286] NT: Not tested

[0287] [Evaluations]

[0288] (Turbidity)

[0289] The turbidity of the compositions according to Example 1 and comparative examples 1-2 was measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).

[0290] The results are shown in Table 1 in "NTU". The smaller the NTU value, the more transparent the composition.

[0291] (Particle size)

[0292] The particle size (nm) of the oil droplets in the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 was measured by the ELSZ-2000ZS particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).

[0293] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0294] The particle size of the oil droplets in the composition according to comparative example 1 was not measured because it was opaque and clearly did not appear in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0295] Comparative example 2 corresponds to example 1 in document WO 2020 / 110716.

[0296] Comparative example 1 shows that the addition of lactic acid and niacinamide to the composition according to comparative example 2 prevents the formation of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0297] Example 1 shows that the use of a combination of the two different types of fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a weight ratio of the amount of fatty acid polyglyceryl ester with a higher HLB value (the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester) / the amount of fatty acid polyglyceryl ester with a lower HLB value (the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester) (cf. "High HLB PG surfactant / Low HLB PG surfactant" in Table 1) being 3.0 or more in the presence of no anionic surfactant can form a nano- or microemulsion.

[0298] [Examples 2-1 to 2-7]

[0299] The following compositions according to examples 2-1 to 2-7, shown in Table 2, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2 as follows.

[0300] The compositions according to Examples 2-1 to 2-7 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0301] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0302] [Tables2] Ex. 2-1 Ex. 2-2 Ex. 2-3 Ex. 2-4 Ex. 2-5 Ex. 2-6 Ex. 2-7 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Propylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 Caprate Polyglyceryl-4 (HLB: 14.90% active) 0.09 0.18 0.45 0.9 1.8 2.7 4.5 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 8) 0.01 0.02 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Isopropyl myristate 0.005 0.01 0.025 0.05 0.1 0.15 0.25 Total (%) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Weight ratio of PG surfactant with high HLB / PG surfactant with low HLB 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 Oil (%) 0.005 0.01 0.025 0.05 0.1 0.15 0.25 Surfactants (%) 0.091 0.182 0.455 0.91 1.82 2.73 4.55 Oil / Surfactant Weight Ratio 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Turbidity (NTU) 44.8 29 68.2 31.6 3.6 6.5 5.4 Average Droplet Size (nm) 77.5 51.7 35.1 29.4 17.5 5.8 17.5

[0303] [Evaluations]

[0304] (Turbidity)

[0305] The turbidity of the compositions according to examples 2-1 to 2-7 was measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).

[0306] The results are shown in Table 2 in "NTU". The higher the NTU value The smaller the size, the more transparent the composition.

[0307] (Particle size)

[0308] The particle size (nm) of the oil droplets in the compositions according to Examples 2-1 to 2-7 was measured by the ELSZ-2000ZS particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).

[0309] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0310] Examples 2-1 to 2-7 show that, at least, the use of the first and second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters in a total amount of 0.05% by weight or more (see "Surfactants (%)" in Table 2), relative to the total weight of the composition, can work to prepare a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0311] [Examples 3-1 to 3-5 and comparative examples 3-1 to 3-6]

[0312] The following compositions according to examples 3-1 to 3-5 and comparative examples 3-1 to 3-6, shown in Table 3, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3 as follows.

[0313] The compositions according to examples 3-1 to 3-5 and comparative examples 3-1 to 3-6 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0314] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 3 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0315] [Tables3] 3-1 com P- Ex. 3-3 com P- Ex. 3-4 com P- Ex. 3-5 com P- Ex. 3-6 com P- Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Propylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14.90% active) 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 8) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Isopropyl Myristate - 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 1.4 1.6 1.8 2 Total (%) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Weight Ratio of High HLB PG Surfactant / Low HLB PG Surfactant 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 Oil (%) - 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 1,4 1.6 1.8 2 Surfactants (%) 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 Oil / surfactant weight ratio - 0.11 0.22 0.33 0.44 0.55 0.66 0.77 0.88 0.99 1.10 , Turbidity (NTU) 1.6 3.9 4.8 46.2 177 477 >80 0 >80 0 >80 0 >80 0 >80 0 Mean droplet size (nm) 28.7 9.6 13.5 18.7 19.7 NT NT NT NT NT NT

[0316] NT: Not tested

[0317] [Evaluations]

[0318] (Turbidity)

[0319] The turbidity of the compositions according to examples 3-1 to 3-5 and comparative examples 3-1 to 3-6 was measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).

[0320] The results are shown in Table 3 in "NTU". The smaller the NTU value, the more transparent the composition.

[0321] (Particle size)

[0322] The particle size (nm) of the oil droplets in the compositions according to Examples 3-1 to 3-5 was measured by the ELSZ-2000ZS particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).

[0323] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0324] The particle size of the oil droplets in the compositions according to comparative examples 3-1 to 3-6 was not measured because they were opaque and clearly did not appear in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0325] Examples 3-1 to 3-5 show that when the weight ratio of the quantity of oil / total quantity of first and second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters (cf. "oil / surfactant weight ratio" in Table 3) is 0.5 or less, a nano- or micro-emulsion can be prepared.

[0326] Comparative examples 3-1 to 3-6 show that when the weight ratio of the quantity of oil / total quantity of first and second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters (cf. oil / surfactant weight ratio in Table 3) is greater than 0.5, a nano- or micro-emulsion cannot be prepared.

[0327] [Examples 4-1 to 4-4 and comparative examples 4-1 to 4-6]

[0328] The following compositions according to examples 4-1 to 4-4 and comparative examples 4-1 to 4-6, shown in Table 4, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 4 as follows.

[0329] The compositions according to examples 4-1 to 4-4 and comparative examples 4-1 to 4-6 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0330] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 4 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials. Com P-Ex. 4-1 Com P-Ex. 4-2 Com P-Ex. 4-3 Com P-Ex. 4-4 Com P-Ex. 4-5 Com P-Ex. 4-6 Ex. 4-1 Ex. 4-2 Ex. 4-3 Ex. 4-4 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Propylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 4.1 qs pH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 Poly-glyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14.90% active) 1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.9 Poly-glyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 8) 1 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 Isopropyl myristate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Total (%) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Weight ratio of PG surfactant with high HLB / PG surfactant with low HLB 0.9 1.1 1.4 1.7 2.1 2.7 3.6 5.1 8.1 17.1 Oil (%) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Surfactants (%) 1.9 1.89 1.88 1.87 1.86 1.85 1,84 1.83 1.82 1.81 Oil / surfactant weight ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 Turbidity (NTU) 400 453 451 462 436 303 230 35.7 4.9 37 , Average droplet size (nm) NT NT NT NT NT NT 255.8 30.2 13.7 11.4

[0332] NT: Not tested

[0333] [Evaluations]

[0334] (Turbidity)

[0335] The turbidity of the compositions according to examples 4-1 to 4-4 and comparative examples 4-1 to 4-6 was measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).

[0336] The results are shown in Table 4 in "NTU". The smaller the NTU value, the more transparent the composition.

[0337] (Particle size)

[0338] The particle size (nm) of the oil droplets in the compositions according to Examples 4-1 to 4-4 was measured by the ELSZ-2000ZS particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).

[0339] The results are shown in Table 4.

[0340] The particle size of the oil droplets in the compositions according to comparative examples 4-1 to 4-6 was not measured because they were opaque and clearly did not appear in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0341] Examples 4-1 to 4-4 show that when the weight ratio of the amount of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester (cf. "high HLB PG surfactant / low HLB PG surfactant" in Table 4) is 3.0 or more, a nano- or micro-emulsion can be prepared.

[0342] Comparative examples 4-1 to 4-4 show that when the weight ratio of the amount of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester (cf. "high HLB PG surfactant / low HLB PG surfactant" in Table 4) is less than 3.0, a nano- or micro-emulsion cannot be prepared.

[0343] [Examples 5-1 to 5-11]

[0344] The following compositions according to examples 5-1 to 5-11, shown in Table 5, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 5 as follows.

[0345] The compositions according to Examples 5-1 to 5-11 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0346] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 5 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0347] [Tables5] Ex. 5-1 Ex. 5-2 Ex. 5-3 Ex. 5-4 Ex. 5-5 Ex. 5-6 Ex. 5-7 Ex. 5-8 Ex. 5-9 Ex. 5-10 Ex. 5-11 Water q.s. 10 ... (HLB: 14.90% active) 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Poly-glyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 8) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Isopropyl myristate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Lactic acid 0.3 0.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3 4.5 6 9 3 - Niacinamide 0.5 1 2 3 4 5 7.5 10 15 - 5 Sodium hydroxide qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 qs PH 4.1 - Citric acid - - - - - - - - - - qs PH 4.1 Total (%) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Weight ratio of PG surfactant with high HLB / PG surfactant with low HLB 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 Oil (%) 0,4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Surfactants (%) 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 , Oil / surfactant weight ratio 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 Turbidity (NTU) 6.4 5.8 6.1 4.8 5 4.8 3.9 4.1 4 7 4.7 Average droplet size (nm) 8.3 8.3 8.4 8.6 13.5 13.5 26.7 22.8 33.1 17.4 8

[0348] [Evaluations]

[0349] (Turbidity)

[0350] The turbidity of the compositions according to examples 5-1 to 5-11 was measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).

[0351] The results are shown in Table 5 in "NTU". The smaller the NTU value, the more transparent the composition.

[0352] (Particle size)

[0353] The particle size (nm) of the oil droplets in the compositions according to Examples 5-1 to 5-11 was measured by the ELSZ-2000ZS particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).

[0354] The results are shown in Table 5.

[0355] Examples 5-1 to 5-9 show that, at least, the use of lactic acid in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight and the use of niacinamide in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by weight can work to prepare a nano- or micro-emulsion.

[0356] Examples 5-10 and 5-11 show that lactic acid and niacinamide can be used alone.

[0357] [Examples 6-1 to 6-10]

[0358] The following compositions according to examples 6-1 to 6-10, shown in Table 6, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 6 as follows.

[0359] The compositions according to Examples 6-1 to 6-10 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0360] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components shown in Table 6 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0361] [Tableauxô] Ex. 6-1 Ex. 6-2 Ex. 6-3 Ex. 6-4 Ex. 6-5 Ex. 6-6 Ex. 6-7 Ex. 6-8 Ex. 6-9 Ex. 6-10 Water q.s. 10 ... 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Poly-glyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 8) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Isopropyl myristate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Lactic acid 0.3 0.6 1.2 1.8 2.4 3 4.5 6 9 3 Niacinamide 0.5 1 2 3 4 5 7.5 10 15 - Sodium hydroxide qs pH 3.6 qs pH 4.0 qs pH 4.5 qs pH 5.0 qs pH 5.5 qs pH 6.0 qs pH 6.5 qs pH 7.0 qs pH 8.0 qs pH 9.0 Total (%) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Weight ratio of PG surfactant with high HLB / PG surfactant with low HLB 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 Oil (%) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Surfactants (%) 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.82 1.8282 1.82 Oil / Surfactant weight ratio 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 Turbidity (NTU) 4.5 4.7 4.9 4.8 4.6 4.9 4.5 4.5 4.5 5.4 Average droplet size (nm) 15.7 15.7 17 13.5 26.1 13.6 13.5 13.5 13.5 29.3 ,

[0362] [Evaluations]

[0363] (Turbidity)

[0364] The turbidity of the compositions according to examples 6-1 to 6-11 was measured at room temperature using a turbidimeter (2100Q portable, Hach Company).

[0365] The results are shown in Table 6 in "NTU". The smaller the NTU value, the more transparent the composition.

[0366] (Particle size)

[0367] The particle size (nm) of the oil droplets in the compositions according to Examples 6-1 to 6-10 was measured by the ELSZ-2000ZS particle size analyzer (Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.).

[0368] The results are shown in Table 6.

[0369] Examples 6-1 to 6-10 show that a nano- or micro-emulsion can be prepared at a pH between 3.5 and 9.0.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 13.0 or higher, preferably 13.5 or higher, and more preferably 14.0 or higher; (c) at least one second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or lower, preferably 9.0 or lower, and more preferably 8.0 or lower; (d) at least one skin care active agent;and (e) water, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester / the amount of (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 3.0 or more, preferably 4.0 or more, and more preferably 5.0 or more, the weight ratio of the amount of (a) oil to the total amount of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 0.5 or less, and the composition comprises 0.1 wt% or less of anionic surfactant(s), preferably 0.01 wt% or less of anionic surfactant(s), and more preferably no anionic surfactant.;

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition has a turbidity of 300 NTU or less, preferably 200 NTU or less, and more preferably 100 NTU or less.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) oil is selected from polar oils.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, and more preferably 4 glycerol units.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty acid moiety of (b) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 12 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 11 or fewer carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 carbon atony or less.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 glycerol units.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the fatty acid moiety of the (c) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (d) skin care active agent is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, niacinamide and mixtures thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is in the form of an O / W nano- or microemulsion.

10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.