SKINCARE COMPOSITION

Abstract

SKINCARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a skincare composition comprising: (i) at least one TRPV1 antagonist; (ii) at least one compound of formula (I): (I) wherein: R1=H or -CH3; R2=H or -CH3; R3=-CH3; and R1 and R2 are not simultaneously equal to H; and (iii) at least one vitamin compound selected from vitamin B5 and its derivatives. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic skincare method, comprising the application of said composition to the skin. Figure for the abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for skin care. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of skin care, background art

[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injuries (such as trauma) and biological injuries (such as bacteria, viruses, or fungi). The epidermis is a keratinized stratified squamous epithelium. Its average thickness ranges from 60 to 100 qm and can reach 600 to 700 qm on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands. It is composed mainly of keratinocytes, but also of other cells, and rests on a basement membrane that separates it from the dermis.

[0003] During menopause, the skin undergoes changes in all its compartments, i.e. the dermis and the epidermis.

[0004] The main changes concern the dermis and consist of a decrease in collagen content and thickness of the dermis. In postmenopausal women, this results in a thinning of the skin and / or mucous membranes. Women then experience a sensation of "dry skin" or tight skin and there is an accentuation of surface wrinkles and fine lines. The skin has a rough feel. Finally, the skin shows a decrease in its suppleness.

[0005] The main changes affecting the epidermis are a decrease in the differentiation of keratinocytes, resulting in a deficit in cornified cell matrix proteins, an increase in metalloproteinases, which are proteases that degrade the extracellular matrix and participate in skin aging, and also a decrease in the synthesis of different glycosaminoglycans.

[0006] The development of formulations dedicated to skin care is ongoing.

[0007] A wide variety of cosmetic compositions have been used to care for of the skin, for example to repair it. However, for most of them, the skin care effect, especially skin repair, is not satisfactory.

[0008] Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition for taking care of the skin, which can deliver a restorative and / or soothing effect. Summary of the invention

[0009] The applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate com- positions for skin care, which can provide a restorative and / or soothing effect.

[0010] Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a skin care composition comprising:

[0011] (i) at least one TRPV1 antagonist;

[0012] (ii) at least one compound of formula (I):

[0013] in which: Ri=H or -CH3; R2=H or -CH3; R3=-CH3; and Ri and R2 are not simultaneously equal to H; and

[0014] (iii) at least one vitamin compound chosen from vitamin B5 and its derivatives.

[0015] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising applying to the skin the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention.

[0016] The composition of the present invention can provide a restorative and / or soothing effect on the skin.

[0017] Other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0018] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0019] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] shows the cell viability after administration of each composition without SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) challenge.

[0020] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows the cell viability after administration of each composition after induction of irritation by SDS at 1.0 mg / mL. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0022] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “between...and...” and “from...to...”

[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0024] In this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all optionally mentioned features, as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0025] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing the amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified according to the intended purpose, if necessary.

[0026] All percentages in the present invention refer to percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated. TRPV1 antagonists

[0027] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one TRPV1 antagonist.

[0028] Transient receptor potential vanilloid type 1 (TRPV1) is a ligand-gated ion channel that functions as an integrator of multiple pain stimuli including heat, acid, capsaicin, and a variety of putative endogenous lipid ligands. TRPV1 is expressed on central and peripheral neurons. TRPV1 is also expressed in many non-neuronal cells, including keratinocytes, differentiated sebocytes, hair follicle cells, sweat gland ducts, the secretory portion of eccrine sweat glands, mast cells, 3T3-L1 predipocytes, and fibroblasts. TRPV1 activation in keratinocytes causes the release of inflammatory mediators such as PGE2 (prostaglandin E2) and 1TL-8 (interleukin-8), and the induction of matrix metalloproteinases such as MMP-1, respectively.

[0029] TRPV 1 antagonists have been shown to decrease inflammatory pain in animal models and produce limited hyperthermia at analgesic doses.

[0030] Examples of TRPV1 antagonists include capsazepine, (E)-3-(4-t-butylphenyl)-N-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][l,4]dioxin-6-yl)acrylamide and 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol.

[0031] Preferably, the TRPV1 antagonist is 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol.

[0032] In particular, the TRPV1 antagonist is trans-4-tert-butyl-cyclohexanol.

[0033] In the context of the present invention, the term "trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol" includes (+)-trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol, (-)-trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol, represented by the following formulas, and mixtures thereof. OH OH

[0034] A commercial example of a TRPV1 antagonist is SYMSITIVE 1609 from Symrise GmbH of Holzminden, Germany, which is 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol.

[0035] Advantageously, the TRPV1 antagonist is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Compound of formula (I)

[0036] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one compound of formula (I):

[0037] in which: Ri=H or -CH3; R2=H or -CH3; R3=-CH3; and Ri and R2 are not simultaneously equal to H.

[0038] Preferred compounds of formula (I) are madecassoside (compound of formula (I) with Ri=R3=-CH3 and R2=H) and terminoloside (compound of formula (I) with Ri=H and R2=R3=-CH3).

[0039] These compounds of formula (I) and in particular their mixtures can in particular be extracted from Centella asiatica according to the process described in application WO 2004 / 062678.

[0040] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside is used. More preferably, the mixture of madecassoside and terminoloside has a madecassoside content ranging from 30% by weight to 70% by weight, in particular ranging from 45% by weight to 55% by weight, and more particularly 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0041] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, an extract of Centella asiatica comprising more than 95% by weight of the made-cassoside / terminoloside mixture will be used, relative to the weight of the extract.

[0042] An extract of Centella asiatica comprising more than 95% by weight of the madecassoside / terminoloside mixture (50 / 50% by weight) is sold in particular under the trade name Madecassoside by Bayer.

[0043] A commercial madecassoside product is also available from the company SEPPIC, which consists of madecassoside.

[0044] Advantageously, the compound of formula (I) described above is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin compound

[0045] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one vitamin compound chosen from vitamin B5 and its derivatives.

[0046] The term "vitamin B5" has its usual and ordinary meaning in biochemistry.

[0047] Vitamin B5 is also called pantothenic acid having the following structure.

[0048] Examples of vitamin B5 derivatives include:

[0049] [Tables4] Panthenol OH A g Calcium pantothenate O HCL JL XX xx Y 'N

[0050] The above vitamin B5 derivative can easily be converted into vitamin B5.

[0051] Thus, preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one vitamin compound chosen from vitamin B5, panthenyl triacetate, ethyl panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, calcium pantothenate, and a combination thereof.

[0052] In particular, panthenol is D-panthenol, which can convert to pantothenic acid in the skin.

[0053] Advantageously, the vitamin compound is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The inventors of the present invention have found that with the combination of the TRPV1 antagonist, the compound of formula (I) and the vitamin compound chosen from vitamin B5 and its derivatives, a synergistic effect on the repair and / or soothing of the skin has been obtained. Aqueous phase

[0055] The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

[0056] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0057] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 88% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 25°C) chosen from glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydrating effect.

[0059] If present, advantageously, the water-miscible organic solvent chosen from glycols and polyols is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention comprises water, caprylyl glycol and glycerin. Oily phase

[0061] The composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.

[0062] Advantageously, the oily phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0063] Said oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil. The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0064] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0065] The term "non-volatile oil" designates an oil which can remain on keratinous materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the quantity evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm2.

[0066] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0067] Said oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon or fluorinated oils.

[0068] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. Such an oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0069] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0070] Preferably, the oily phase comprises an ester oil. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0071] The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0072] As an example of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as Carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed flower extract & Opuntia ficus-indica); other vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tensing agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0074] The composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example surfactants (such as stearic acid, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate), perfumes, preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin) and bactericides, thickeners (such as xanthan gum), pH regulators (e.g., triethanolamine, citric acid, potassium hydroxide, and sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0075] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of adjuvants or additional additive so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0076] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for the care of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0077] (i) from 0.05% by weight to 0.5% by weight of trans-4-t-butylcyclohexanol;

[0078] (ii) from 0.05% by weight to 0.5% by weight of madecassoside; and

[0079] (iii) from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one compound selected from vitamin B5, panthenyl triacetate, ethyl panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, calcium pan-tothenate and a combination thereof. Dosage form and process

[0080] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion (O / W or W / O), or other liquid formats, for example, tonics, serums, lotions, creams, masks, sprays.

[0081] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.

[0082] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising applying to the skin the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention.

[0083] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting. EXAMPLES

[0084] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0085] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier TRANS-4-T-BUTYLCYCLOHEX ANOL SYMSITIVE® 1609 SYMRISE MADECASSOSIDE MADECASSOSIDE SERDEX (SEPPIC) PANTHENOL D PANTHENOL CARE BASF GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA STEARIC ACID PALMAC® 50-18 / MB IOI GROUP OLEOCHEMICA LS POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE LAUNDRY OF POTASH 50% QUARON CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE MASESTER E7000 LR01-1 / MB PT MUSIM MAS BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER OLVEA ISONONYL ISONONANOATE ERCAREL ISN / O ERCA MYRISTYL MYRISTATE TEGOSOFT® MM EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT CHLORPHENESIN MACROCIDE-OL MACROCARE

[0086] Invention Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0087] The compositions of Invention Examples (IE) 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of the amounts indicated in Table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] [Tables2] IE.1 IE.2 IE.3 CE.l CE.2 CE.3 TRANS-4-T-BUTYLCYC LOHEXANOL 0.1 0.2 0.4 1.0 2 - MADECASSOSIDE 0.05 0.1 0.5 1.0 - 1.0 PANTHENOL 0.5 1.0 5.0 - 20 20 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 GLYCERIN 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 STEARIC ACID 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Preparation process:

[0089] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of formula 1 of the invention:

[0090] [Tables5] Phase INCI Name % A WATER Up to 100 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 GLYCERIN 8.00 B STEARIC ACID 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 0.80 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 1.00 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 1.23 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2.00 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 3.55 C

[0091] 1. weigh the ingredients of phase A into a container and mix to obtain a transparent mixture, then stir at 75°C under a stirring rate of 500 rpm until a yellowish transparent liquid is obtained;

[0092] 2. heat the premix of phase B to 85°C, then add it to the clear liquid yellowish at 75°C under a stirring rate of 1500 rpm and mix for 10 minutes to obtain a white emulsion;

[0093] 3. add the premix of phase C at 75°C under a stirring rate of 1500 rpm. min to obtain a fine white cream, then cool to 40°C;

[0094] 4. add phase D at 40°C, then cool to room temperature while stirring to obtain the composition. Assessment

[0095] Cell viability was tested as follows.

[0096] 1.0 mg / mL of SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) was used to induce responses irritation. Cell viability represents the percentage of the number of living cells after each treatment compared to the number of living cells before each treatment.

[0097] Cell viability was calculated as follows:

[0098] Cell viability (%) = Nafter / Nbefore * 100%.

[0099] Navant: the number of living cells before each treatment;

[0100] After: the number of living cells after each treatment.

[0101] The higher the cell viability, the greater the cell survival.

[0102] After simultaneous exposure of the compositions of the invention examples 1 to 3, a A trend towards increased cell viability at 1.0 mg / mL SDS was observed, indicating less cell death and greater cell survival.

[0103] Topical SDS treatments were performed at IC30-40 and IC60-70, respectively, to induce local irritation, while systemic administration of the test composition was used to counteract adverse cellular effects caused by SDS treatments.

[0104] [Fig.l] shows cell viability after administration of each composition without SDS challenge.

[0105] [Fig.2] shows the cell viability after administration of each composition after inducing irritation by SDS at 1.0 mg / mL.

[0106] The results of cell viability of the compositions according to the examples of the invention and the comparative examples are listed in Table 3.

[0107] [Tables3] Properties IE.1 IE.2 IE.3 CE.l CE.2 CE.3 Cell viability (%) 51.2 58.1 44.7 36.0 9.7 9.3

[0108] It can be concluded that the composition of the present invention can be used for potential anti-inflammation

Claims

Claims

1. A skin care composition comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.05% by weight to 0.2% by weight of trans-4-t-butylcyclohexanol; (ii) from 0.05% by weight to 0.1% by weight of madecassoside; and (iii) from 0.02% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one vitamin compound selected from vitamin B5, panthenyl triacetate, panthenyl ethyl ether, calcium pantothenate and a combination thereof.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase.

3. A composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water and a miscible organic solvent selected from glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises an oily phase.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises one or more elements selected from surfactants, perfumes, preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

6. A non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising applying to the skin the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

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