Cosmetic composition customization kit

Abstract

Cosmetic Composition Customization Kit The present invention relates to a block formulation kit and its use for preparing cosmetic compositions with varied and personalized textures. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Kit for personalizing a cosmetic composition Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a kit for customizing cosmetic compositions; in particular a block formulation kit; and its use for preparing cosmetic compositions with varied and personalized textures. Context of the invention

[0002] New digital technologies mark the advent of hyper-personalized cosmetics. Thus, new launches of "personalization" type cosmetic products are based, for example, on a new mixing device, a new digital application, a new skin diagnostic process or a process for determining the color of a cosmetic product that corresponds to the skin color of a user.

[0003] Several models coexist. In particular, there is "homemade" cosmetics, where consumers make their own beauty products, for example using boxes of ingredients. Personalized products can be made at home, by mixing the ingredients by hand or with tools such as a spoon, spatula, whisk, or using a mixer. The most classic cosmetics personalization is "mixology" which consists of mixing different ingredients with a process very often involving heating and low-energy mixing equipment such as a manual whisk. The diversity of raw materials, the complexity of their handling and the following of a particular recipe makes the approach tedious and does not allow for obtaining a homogeneous and efficient mixture close to industrial quality.

[0004] Furthermore, the approach to customization at the industrial level is also very complex with classic operational systems.

[0005] Personalization at the point of sale is also booming, particularly for skin care and makeup. Foundations and lipsticks can now be made on site, at the counter, in front of the customer, using micro-factories, offering thousands of possible combinations. This is what Skin-Ceuticals offers, for example, with a personalized skin care service called "Custom DOSE", or even Lancôme's "Teint Particulier". In the case of "Teint Particulier", a Lancôme beauty advisor accompanies each customer and begins the consultation with a skin scan in three different places to precisely analyze the type and shade. An algorithm interprets the data collected to define the ideal foundation formulation. Thanks to its color sensitivity superior to that of The human eye, the algorithm allows you to choose the shade perfectly suited to each skin tone. The tailor-made formula is then prepared in-store in around twenty minutes. While the shade can be adjusted, so can the level of hydration and coverage, with 72,000 possible combinations.

[0006] To date, there is no product offering or cosmetic process that allows the texture to be personalized, while guaranteeing, for example, the same stability or constant effectiveness of active ingredients regardless of the texture. One of the main challenges of personalization is to have a simple, agile and rapid formulation system that allows the tailor-made personalization of skin care in all its dimensions, including texture.

[0007] The problem also arises of how to emulsify oils, disperse fillers and add thermolabile active ingredients (or even those sensitive to strong

[0008] shears) quickly and at room temperature without heating, for greater safety and for assured quality (reproducibility), on small quantities for

[0009] custom-made with a low energy mixing tool.

[0010] There therefore remains a real need to provide new processes or new kits, using new compositions of formulating bases, hereinafter “blocks”, making it possible to easily create and prepare, by mixing between said cosmetic blocks, a whole range of cosmetic textures, and thus allow complete customization.

[0011] On the other hand, consumers have a heightened environmental awareness, expectations of more naturalness, the need to be reassured about the ingredients of cosmetic formulas, in particular their safety, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or even their renewable nature.

[0012] The present invention aims to propose formulas that respond to this quest for environmental responsibility, for thoughtful, more sober consumption, for cosmetic products that are both simpler but also more precise, freshly prepared, on demand and "tailor-made". These formulas must correspond perfectly to their skin, their desires and their environment.

[0013] The present invention therefore aims to develop a kit and a method for block formulation, which is both minimalist and sufficiently robust in terms of stability criteria, to be able to adapt to different formulating environments when mixing said blocks; and thus enable the obtaining of stable personalized compositions whatever the final texture required.

[0014] In any case, it should be noted that the mixing efficiency is lower than that of industrialized cosmetics. Therefore, to ensure the stability and quality of these mixtures, it is necessary to design new pre-formulated cosmetic preparations (also called "cosmetic blocks") that are easy to assemble and mix using new agile manufacturing methods, including “block” formulation. Thus, this trend towards extreme customization creates a need for new types of formulations, and in particular processes capable of rapid formulation on demand.

[0015] The present invention therefore aims to design a kit or method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition from robust formulatory “blocks” which can be combined “custom-made” with different functional blocks by means of low-energy stirring (in particular by means of a Speedmixer®) and at room temperature (typically 25°C).

[0016] One objective is also to facilitate access to the personalization of skin care, in a few minutes, in all its dimensions (texture, skin finish, visual effect, hydration, active ingredients, photoprotection, etc.). The question also arises of how to adjust the texture without diluting the performance expected by the consumer (hydration, absorption of active ingredients, optical effects, coverage, color, etc.). According to a classic approach, the formulator creates a formula by combining raw materials implemented in situ according to a defined manufacturing process. If he wishes to adjust the texture or the shade, he must remanufacture the formula from scratch. This approach is therefore not directly accessible to a consumer.

[0017] Generally, texture adjustment is done by adjusting the water and compensating across the entire formula, which can dilute the final performance of the formula. It is rarer to compensate on the surfactant system at the risk of compromising the stability of the formula. This texture adjustment is all the more crucial for certain professions, particularly foundation makeup, because formulators are subject to the effects of pigments on the final texture (e.g., yellow pigment significantly thickens textures). Being able to adjust the texture without affecting the final shade or coverage would be a real advance in formulation.

[0018] The present invention thus aims to design a kit and method for preparing personalized cosmetic products, allowing agility, time saving, energy saving, quality and speed of preparation of each personalized final product.

[0019] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the kit according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0020] According to a first aspect, the present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

[0021] - On the one hand a Textural block (a) comprising:

[0022] - a basic formula composition (hereinafter also called engine block or “BM” of the formula) and

[0023] - an aqueous phase (Water Block); and

[0024] - On the other hand a Functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions,

[0025] in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product for the skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair;

[0026] wherein said formulating base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0027] A) at least one diol, preferably at least two diols, containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0028] B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0029] C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 with 22 carbon atoms; and

[0030] D) water.

[0031] Preferably, said formulating base comprises A) at least two diols comprising at least:

[0032] - a first major diol chosen from those in list Al consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

[0033] - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list Al and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0034] Advantageously, said mixing of the blocks of the Kit is carried out by means of an asymmetrical mixing device, in particular with planetary movement, such as a Speedmixer®.

[0035] Advantageously, said mixture is produced at a temperature below 50°C, preferably below 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 30°C, preferably 18 to 25°C.

[0036] Advantageously, said mixture is produced directly in the final container of said cosmetic composition.

[0037] According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is a process for preparing a cosmetic product with a personalized texture, from a kit as defined above, in which said textural block (a) is mixed with one or more functional blocks (b), said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 25°C, preferably close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

[0038] According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and / or lips of a composition obtained according to the process as defined above.

[0039] The kit of the invention comprises in particular the use of a specific and robust formulating base, for the manufacture of at least one cosmetic product with a personalized texture, in which said base is mixed, preferably in blocks, with one or more other compositions (blocks), in particular pre-formulated, said mixing being carried out preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 15 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 25°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

[0040] The present invention thus proposes the use of a simple minimalist universal base ("engine block" with industrial quality) which already has the appearance of a cream with an interesting basic sensory effect (fresh / moisturizing without soaping or sticky effect) and which has the capacity to stabilize at room temperature one or more raw materials ("functional blocks") from several families such as Fatty substances, Water, Active ingredients, Gelling agents, Fillers, Pigments. The mixing of the base block with the functional block(s) can be done at room temperature directly in the packaging or final container with a low-energy mixing tool and preferably of the asymmetric or planetary type (Speedmixer® type) but it is not excluded to heat the whole.The incrementation by the kits according to the invention makes it possible to explore a wide range of textures (from lotion to serum, including creams and balms) and sensory effects for care or hybrid makeup and care applications (BBcream) for various areas ranging from the face, hair, to the body.

[0041] The present kit and method for preparation by blocks, from a robust formulating base block, allows a rapid tailor-made formulation by simple combination of said base block / textural block, with different functional blocks, and makes it possible to explore a whole range of textures, sensory effects and benefits with a performance at least equal to conventional formulas manufactured according to a conventional industrial process by mixing raw material by raw material. Detailed description of the invention

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0043] By "keratin materials" is meant the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the appendages. Preferably, the keratin materials are the skin, in particular the skin of the face, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or the appendages such as the eyelashes.

[0044] The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, they are cosmetic compositions.

[0045] The composition according to the invention contains a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0046] In the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium, compatible with keratin materials, in particular with the skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair or lips of human beings. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and feel, and intended for topical application.

[0047] By "soluble or solubilized compound" is meant a compound which can be dissolved in a liquid, or which is miscible, and forms only a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the liquid.

[0048] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0049] The expressions “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0050] In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the contents and percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore generally expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. The ratios are also weight ratios. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0051] By Speedmixer® (in particular DAC400), we mean more particularly a mixer operating on the principle of an asymmetrical centrifuge, by planetary movement with an acceleration of 400G and a speed ranging from 800 to 2750 rpm.

[0052] By high-performance composition, we mean a base composition that is robust to the various possible constraints (pH, salts, dilution, heating, cold emulsification with low energy, etc.) that may be imposed by the addition of other (blocks of) raw materials with a view to diversifying textures.

[0053] By “robust” composition is meant in particular a composition which meets at least the criteria below (as defined and measured according to the protocols specified below in Table 1 of the examples):

[0054] “be stable over a wide pH range, to enable antimicrobial protection of the formula and pH-dependent activity of certain active ingredients;

[0055] 'be stable at high temperature at 45°C, and at 75°C to allow the introduction of hot blocks of ingredients, in particular based on melted wax, and thus guarantee the possibility of obtaining a texture of balm or butter consistency;

[0056] 'be insensitive to electrolytes, in particular resistant to the presence of NaCl type salts, to allow the introduction of mineral water, such as Vichy water or La Roche Posay water without risk of instability linked to the presence of mineral salts, or guarantee stability following the addition of certain active ingredients charged with ions;

[0057] “be stable upon dilution with or without the presence of fatty substances, and in particular:

[0058] “to be able to emulsify fatty substances, such as vegetable oils, at room temperature (25°C), with a low-energy tool of the Speedmixer® type;

[0059] “be stable when diluted in water and thus guarantee the possibility of obtaining a texture of mist / serum / lotion consistency.

[0060] - By "stable composition" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a composition which, after 2 months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, does not show any macroscopic change in color, odor, or viscosity, but on the contrary remains homogeneous and regular, and does not dephase (no separation of the aqueous phase and the oily phase) nor release oil.

[0061] - by “very stable” composition, we mean a composition which, after centrifugation (3700 rpm Ih), shows no change in texture (no drop in viscosity or consistency) at T0 (after manufacturing), nor after 2 months in an oven at 45°C (storage and accelerated aging).

[0062] By "predominantly" or "in a majority capacity", it is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that the compound is in the majority among the compounds of the same type in the composition, that is to say that it is the one which represents the greatest quantity by mass among the compounds of the same type. Preferably, the mass of this compound represents at least 50% of the total mass of the compounds of the same type in the composition. For example, in a system comprising a single fatty alcohol, this is in the majority within the meaning of the present invention; and in a system comprising two fatty alcohols, the majority fatty alcohol represents at least half, preferably more than half, of the total mass of the fatty alcohols, in other words the mass of this fatty alcohol represents at least 50% of the total mass of the two fatty alcohols.In the same way, a so-called majority diol is the one representing the greatest mass among all the diols in the composition, in particular whatever the type of diol, including those of type Al or A2 as defined according to the invention. On the other hand, the majority Al diol is the one representing the greatest mass among all the Al diols in the composition. If the composition contains only 2 Al diols of equal content in the composition, they are both at 50% by weight, so one or the other can be considered as an Al diol ma-. majority in the composition of the invention. KIT

[0063] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

[0064] - On the one hand a textural block (a) comprising a basic formulatory composition and an aqueous phase; and

[0065] - On the other hand a functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions,

[0066] in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product for the skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair;

[0067] wherein said formulating base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0068] A) at least one diol, preferably at least two diols, containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0069] B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0070] C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 with 22 carbon atoms; and

[0071] D) water.

[0072] Advantageously, said mixing is carried out by means of an assy mixing device metric, in particular with planetary movement, such as a Speedmixer®. Advantageously, said mixing is carried out at a temperature below 50°C, preferably below 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 30°C, preferably 18 to 25°C. Advantageously, said mixing is carried out directly in the final container of said cosmetic composition. Preferably, said mixing is carried out at a mixing speed in the range of 300 to 3000 rpm, preferably 1000 to 3000 rpm. Said mixing is preferably carried out for a period of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 20 minutes, preferably 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 4 minutes, preferably 1 to 3 minutes, preferably 1 to 2 minutes.

[0073] Preferably, in the Kit according to the invention:

[0074] - the textural block (a) represents a content of 35 to 95%, preferably of 40 to 90%, preferably from 50 to 85%, preferably from 60 to 80%, preferably from 70 to 80%; and

[0075] - the functional block (b) represents a content of 5 to 65%, preferably from 10 to 60%, preferably 15 to 50%, preferably 20 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%;

[0076] by weight, on the total weight of the final formula representing 100%.

[0077] Preferably, in the Kit according to the invention:

[0078] - the formulating base represents from 40 to 100%, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight;

[0079] - the aqueous phase representing from 0 to 60%, preferably from 10 to 50%, by weight;

[0080] on the total weight of the textural block (a) representing 100%.

[0081] Advantageously, the weight ratio T, of the quantity of formula base (f) to the quantity of aqueous phase (e), regulates the texture of the final formula, according to the following formulation rules:

[0082] T > 1 gives a cream

[0083] T =1 gives a serum

[0084] Tel gives a lotion.

[0085] Preferably, the aqueous phase (e) contains at least 90% water, preferably at least 95% water, preferably at least 98% water, out of the total weight of aqueous phase representing 100%.

[0086] In the Kit according to the invention, said at least one functional block (b) comprises at least one block chosen from the following blocks:

[0087] 1) sensory or skin finish block, including in particular fatty substances, such as oils;

[0088] 2) visual effect block, comprising in particular fillers and / or coloring materials;

[0089] 3) block of active ingredient(s), including in particular moisturizing, firming, anti-aging agents, clarifying, or anti-blackheads;

[0090] 4) protective block, including in particular anti-UV filters;

[0091] and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Advantageously, in the kit according to the invention, the modulation of T does not modify the cosmetic effect produced by said functional block(s) in the final formula.

[0093] Thus, the kit according to the invention, by allowing a formulation by blocks, guarantees that the cosmetic effect produced by said functional block(s) is independent of T, that is to say the cosmetic effect produced by said functional block(s) is the same whatever the texture of the final formula.

[0094] Formula base or “Engine block” of the formula or “BM”

[0095] The kit according to the invention uses a formulating base (also called formulation engine block, hereinafter “BM”), preferably comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0096] A) at least two diols comprising at least:

[0097] - a first major diol chosen from those in list Al consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

[0098] - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list Al and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0099] B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0100] C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0101] and

[0102] D) water.

[0103] The applicant has found that this formulating base used according to the invention, based on water, a mixture of specific fatty substances (fatty alcohol and alkylpolyglucosides) and a mixture of particular diols, according to preferred ratios, provides a formulating base (or formulation engine block "BM") which is robust and therefore customizable, combined with other blocks in a Kit according to the invention and in particular according to a low-energy process at room temperature. It forms a common base for the composition of different cosmetic products with very varied textures.

[0104] Furthermore, the basic formula composition used according to the invention has in itself a stable cream texture without requiring the addition of gelling agent, which contributes to its minimalist side and its permissiveness to vary the texture, in particular by simple dilution in water without fear of destabilization. Fatty alcohols

[0105] The basic formulating composition used in the kit of the present invention comprises at least one, and preferably at least two, fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0106] A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0107] By "fatty alcohol" within the meaning of the invention, we mean any alcohol comprising: a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function.

[0108] By “hydrocarbon chain” is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0109] A fatty alcohol that can be used according to the invention is formed from a fatty chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0110] By "fatty alcohol containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms" is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function.

[0111] Preferably, the fatty chain of said fatty alcohols is chosen from the following units: cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the following units: cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, and arachidyl.

[0112] The fatty alcohols particularly suitable for the invention may be chosen from cetyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE 16 by the company COGNIS, or stearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE 18 by the COGNIS company, or the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO, or cetearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE O OR by COGNIS company; we can also cite arachidyl alcohol such as the commercial products HAINOL 20SS® from KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); and mixtures thereof.

[0113] The basic composition used according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0114] Advantageously, the total content of fatty alcohols in the base composition used according to the invention is in the range of 1 to 20%, preferably 1.5 to 15%, preferably 2 to 12%, preferably 3 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0115] According to the present invention, said fatty alcohols comprise at least one major fatty alcohol present in a weight content greater than or equal to that of each of the other fatty alcohols present in the composition, preferably said major fatty alcohol representing more than 50% by weight of the total weight of fatty alcohols present in the composition, the total weight of fatty alcohols representing 100%.

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18) has the INCI name CETEARYL ALCOHOL, and although it comprises a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C16) and stearyl alcohol (C18), it counts as a single fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) in the composition of the present invention. Cetearyl alcohol is therefore combined with at least one other fatty alcohol, preferably combined with at least two other fatty alcohols, containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms in the composition of the present invention, such as, for example, arachidyl alcohol (C20) and / or behenyl alcohol (C22).

[0117] Preferably said at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms comprise cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0118] Advantageously, the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of comparatively higher average chain length. In other words, among all said fatty alcohols, the weight content of each fatty alcohol of radical R' in the composition is greater (compared to the other fatty alcohols) the smaller the chain length of its Alkyl radical R'.

[0119] By way of example, the fatty alcohol contents in the composition of the invention are such that the content of cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18 mixture) > the content of ara- cetearyl alcohol (C20) > the behenyl alcohol content (C22). In the above example, it is therefore cetearyl alcohol which is the majority fatty alcohol within the meaning of the present invention.

[0120] Preferably, said majority fatty alcohol is chosen from: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol, preferably chosen from cetearyl alcohol.

[0121] Advantageously, said majority fatty alcohol is present in the composition of the invention in a content within the range of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 6% by weight, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0122] Alkyl polyglucosides (hereinafter abbreviated as “APG”), optionally polyalkoxylated, may be chosen from a group comprising the compounds of the following general formula: R'O-(G)a,

[0123] in which R1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical, and / or an alkylphenyl radical, comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the group G a sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] The alkyl polyglucoside may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C16-C22 fatty alcohol and glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers of C16-C22 fatty alcohol and methyl glucose. The fatty unit of the ethers may be chosen in particular from cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl units and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, said at least two alkylpolyglucosides are chosen from cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl polyglucoside, octyldodecyl xyloside, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.

[0126] As examples of additional alkyl polyglucosides possibly present in the composition in addition to those defined above according to the present invention, mention may also be made of decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names “PLANTAREN 2000” and “PLANTAREN 1200”.

[0127] The APGs that can be used in the composition of the present invention are advantageously chosen from: cetearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), marketed for example under the name “MONTANOV 68” by the company Seppic, under the name “TEGO Care CG90” by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name “ EMULGADE KE 3302 » by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name « MONTANOV 202 » by Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35 / 65) marketed under the name « MONTANOV 82 » by Seppic, octyldodecyl xyloside marketed under the names « FLUIDANOV 20X » or « EASYNOV » by Seppic.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from “MONTANOV 68” or “MONTANOV 202” by the company Seppic.

[0129] Preferably, the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of lower average alkyl chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of comparatively higher average alkyl chain length. In other words, and preferably in a BM composition according to the invention, an APG of longer alkyl chain is present in a lower content than that of an APG of comparatively shorter alkyl chain. Or, the weight content of each APG in the composition is lower the longer the chain length of the Alkyl radical of said APG. Thus, between two APGs, the one of the two which has the longer alkyl chain is preferably present in a content lower than or equal to that of the two APGs which has the shorter chain.

[0130] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidylpolyglucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1; preferably comprise, or are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1.

[0131] Advantageously, the total APG content is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5%, preferably 1 to 3%, by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0132] Advantageously, the BM composition according to the invention comprises two types of fatty substances:

[0133] - at least two alkylpolyglycosides (also called “APG”) of formulas (I) and (II)

[0134] R10(Gl)xl (I)

[0135] R2O(G2)x2 (II)

[0136] in which RI and R2 each represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G1 and G2 each represent a residue of a saccharide, and xl and x2 each represent a number between 1 and 5;

[0137] and

[0138] - at least two fatty alcohols of formula R'OH, in which R' is an ali radical phatic, linear or branched, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably the alkyl part of which is identical to the alkyl part RI, R2 of the aforementioned alkylpolyglycosides;

[0139] - preferably, the weight content of each APG in the composition is as much greater than the chain length of the radical RI or R2 is smaller.

[0140] - preferably, the weight content of each fatty alcohol in the composition is the greater the shorter the chain length of the radical R'.

[0141] Preferably, in the basic formulatory composition used in the kit and method of the present invention, the weight ratio of the total fatty alcohol content to the total APG content is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment, said composition comprises the following specific mixture of APG and fatty alcohols:

[0143] - from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight arachidyl alcohol;

[0144] - from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.75% by weight arachidyl glucoside;

[0145] - from 0.1 to 3%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight behenyl alcohol;

[0146] - from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 8%, preferably from 1 to 7% of celandine alcohol tearyl;

[0147] - from 0.1 to 4%, preferably from 0.2 to 3%, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight of cetearyl glucoside;

[0148] in association with the diols and water, as defined according to the invention; said composition being in the form of a formulating base or in the form of a final cosmetic formula. Diols or glycols

[0149] The basic composition used in the kit according to the present invention comprises at least one, or even better at least two diols or glycols.

[0150] By diol according to the invention is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only two hydroxyl groups. The diol can be a natural or synthetic diol. The diol can have a linear, branched or cyclic structure.

[0151] The basic formula composition advantageously comprises at least two specific diols comprising at least:

[0152] - a first major diol chosen from those in list Al consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

[0153] - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list Al and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0154] The diol(s) Al is (are) chosen from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol-1,3; and mixtures thereof.

[0155] According to a first particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

[0156] According to a second particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

[0157] According to a third particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0158] Preferably, said at least one diol A2 contains from 5 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0159] When it is present in the composition used as a base in the kit according to the invention, the diol(s) A2 is (are) advantageously chosen from diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the diol(s) A2 is (are) advantageously chosen from: pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; preferably comprises (comprise) at least hexylene glycol.

[0161] Advantageously, the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diol(s), in particular possible A1+A2, to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.75; preferably greater than 1.85.

[0162] Preferably, the weight ratio RI of the total quantity of diol(s) Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

[0163] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the weight ratio RI' of the majority quantity of diol Al to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio RI” of the quantity of each diol Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol being less than 1.

[0166] Preferably, the weight ratio R2' of the majority quantity of diol A2 on the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

[0167] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio R2” of the quantity of each diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the contents by weight are such that: the majority diol Al content > or = the majority fatty alcohol content > the majority diol A2 content, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0169] Preferably, the weight contents in the composition are such that:

[0170] the content of each diol Al > or = with majority fatty alcohol content > the content of each diol A2, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0171] Advantageously, the total content of diol(s) Al is in the range of 5% to 40%, preferably 7% to 30%, preferably 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0172] Preferably, the total content of optional diol(s) A2 is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably is in the range of 0.5 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4%, preferably 1 to 3.5%, preferably 1 to 3% by weight on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0173] Advantageously, said diols may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Water - Aqueous phase

[0174] The kit, and in particular the basic cosmetic composition used in the kit of the present invention, comprises water, and forms an aqueous phase with at least the diols present according to the present invention. The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.

[0175] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0176] In the present invention, the term water-soluble solvent means a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0177] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

[0178] Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols, including those other than said diols according to the invention and having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0179] The composition preferably comprises water in a content ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] The aqueous phase is preferably present in a concentration of 2 to 99% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably in the range of 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0181] Preferably, the quantity of water in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention preferably varies in the range from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40 to 80% by weight, and more particularly 45 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] According to one embodiment, said glycol(s) in accordance with the invention and the water described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a mass ratio of said glycol(s) / water, for example ranging from 0.05 to 5, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1. Other ingredients

[0184] Advantageously, said at least one other cosmetic ingredient mixed with the formulating base defined above is chosen from: fatty substances which are liquid at the temperature of said mixture, in particular oils, such as vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, silicone or non-silicone; water; gums; resins; UV filters, fillers, pigments, such as nacres and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides; non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative, clays, cosmetic active ingredients, in particular heat-sensitive active ingredients; water-soluble solvents; perfumes; peptizing agents; vitamins; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0185] Advantageously, said mixture comprises the dispersion and / or emulsification of at least one liquid fatty substance at the temperature of the mixture, preferably the emulsification of at least one oil, preferably in aqueous continuous phase.

[0186] Sensory or skin finish block - Fatty substance - Fatty phase

[0187] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0188] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound, liquid at tem- room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0189] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0190] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is free of silicone oil(s).

[0191] A composition comprising a limited content of silicone oil(s) is advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less sticky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish, than a composition comprising 2% by weight or more of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0193] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0194] By “non-volatile” is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0195] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0196] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0197] “Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and may optionally comprise one or more, preferably one, carbonate or ester group.

[0198] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0199] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0200] Mention may in particular be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, esters branched C8-C16 such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0201] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0202] Mention may also be made of the following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin:

[0203] - a mixture of branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that which is com marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN® L15;

[0204] - a mixture of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, for example that which is marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name EMOGREEN® L19.

[0205] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular an undecane-tridecane mixture, and linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, in particular a mixture of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes.

[0206] In particular, such hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and do-decamethylpentasiloxane.

[0208] As cyclic silicone volatile oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0209] Non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone oils may also be mentioned.

[0210] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can notably cite:

[0211] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

[0212] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as squalane, ethers of synthesis having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether,

[0213] - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 10.The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononanoate isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; .

[0214] - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as tetrahydroxystearate / tetrai- dipentaerythritol sostearate,

[0215] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,

[0216] - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

[0217] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate,

[0218] - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, and

[0219] - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

[0220] as well as mixtures of these different oils.

[0221] In particular, the composition may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0222] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ôa, is equal to 0 (J / cmSyÆ

[0223] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three di-mensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0224] According to this Hansen space: - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); and - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2. The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0225] The non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atoms.

[0226] Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it may be chosen from:

[0227] - paraffin oil or its derivatives,

[0228] - vaseline oil,

[0229] - polybutylenes, for example Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco,

[0230] - polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example Parléam® marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g / mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g / mol),

[0231] - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers by example the Indopol L-14,

[0232] - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

[0233] - and their mixtures.

[0234] Said non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.

[0235] Examples include mono-, di- or tri-esters.

[0236] Ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.

[0237] The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from:

[0238] - monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as for example Purcellin (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, isoamyl laurate. Preferably, these are esters of formula R1C00R2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, RI and R2 being such that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 18.Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; .

[0239] - diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably dii-sostearyl malate or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Akzo;

[0240] - triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol monocarboxylic acid triesters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0241] - tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as than tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra-2-decyl tetradecanoate;

[0242] - polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, we can notably mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

[0243] - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as - esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular obtainable from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular C8 to C34, in particular C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, and more particularly Cl8, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic dimer diols, for example such as those marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

[0244] - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example that sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol);

[0245] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquids at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

[0246] - and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, triglycerides of fatty acids, in particular saturated ones such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol and esters of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, RI and R2 being such that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as isoamyl laurate.

[0248] More preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, fatty acid triglycerides, in particular saturated fatty acids such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

[0249] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 6.0% to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 10.0% to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position.

[0250] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-C4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil” or “BY29” by the company Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by the company Grant Industries.

[0251] As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax.

[0252] Such waxes may be chosen from lauryl or lauryl alcohol, myristyl or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0253] Preferably, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.

[0254] As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one butter, in particular a vegetable butter.

[0255] The vegetable butter(s) suitable for the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, urucum butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

[0256] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

[0257] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 atoms, mixtures of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of linear and / or branched C15-C19 alkanes, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] Preferably, the fatty phase, in particular such oils, are in particular present in the kit or in the final formula according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the kit or of the final formula.

[0260] Visual effect block - fillers and / or coloring materials Fillers

[0261] As mentioned previously, a kit or a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, polymeric fillers, metal oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0262] For example, a filler content of at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously makes it possible to formulate a composition according to the invention having both satisfactory stability and sensory properties.

[0263] Furthermore, the nature of the filler influences the rheological properties and / or the sensory properties of the composition. For example, fillers advantageously make it possible to formulate an emulsion presenting a good compromise between fluidity and thickness, not leaving a greasy and / or shiny finish after application. Talc

[0264] As an example of talc suitable as a filler according to the invention, mention may be made of those marketed under the names LUZENAC PHARMA UMO (average size 2.7 pm) by the company WORLD MINERALS (IMERYS). Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

[0265] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0266] They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in liquid medium then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usable in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0267] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the method nitrogen absorption method called BET (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) method corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer type MasterSizer 2000 from Malvem. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.

[0268] The aerogels which can be used according to the present invention are in particular hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

[0269] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0270] Concerning the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

[0271] Particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate.

[0272] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1200.

[0273] The silica aerogel particles, in particular silylated silica aerogel particles, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 13%, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular ranging from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles

[0274] Suitable N-acylated amino acids as filler comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group, preferably lauroyl.

[0275] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

[0276] According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids are lauroyl-lysine particles. As an example, the lauroyl lysine powder marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL® (average size 11.7 pm) by the company AJINOMOTO may be cited.

[0277] The particles of C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 25% by weight. Starches

[0278] The starch molecules suitable as fillers according to the present invention may originate from any plant source of starch, in particular cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly, they may be starches from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats or tapioca. The starch is preferably derived from corn.

[0279] Examples that may be mentioned include Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by the company Remy; B® corn starch from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch.

[0280] The modified starch may be a (CrC4) carboxyalkyl starch, also called "carboxyalkyl starch". These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of the starch, in particular by reaction of starch and monochloroacetate of alkali metals such as sodium in an alkaline (basic) medium. The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and in particular salts of an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as Na, K, Li, NH4, of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as mono, di or triethanolamine. The (Ci-C4) carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches.The carboxyalkyl starches that can be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name PRIMOJEL® by the company DMV International or GLYCOLYS® and GLYCOLYS® LV by the company Roquette.

[0281] The starch(es), modified or not, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight. Boron nitride

[0282] Boron nitride is a chemical compound with the formula BN.

[0283] The boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary size of between 1 and 50 pm, better still between 1 and 30 pm, more preferably between 1 and 25 pm, and even more preferably between 5 and 15 pm.

[0284] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" means the maximum dimension that can be measured between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size can be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface area by the BET method or by means of a laser granulometer.

[0285] As commercial boron nitride usable in a composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, in particular under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or even Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.

[0286] Boron nitride may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2.0 to 6.0% by weight. Polymeric fillers

[0287] By “polymeric filler” is meant any filler formed from particles of polymer(s), crosslinked or not, including homo- and co-polymers.

[0288] Such polymeric fillers are, for example, poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), polymeric hollow microspheres, in particular polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid (co)polymers such as hollow spherical polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders sold under the names COVABEAD LH85 (average size 7.5 pm) by the company SENSIENT or TECHPOLYMER MBP-8 (average size 7.5 pm) by the company SEKISUI PLASTICS, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, particles of elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes optionally coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin,such as the products marketed under the name KSP-100® (average size 4.3 pm) or KSP-300® (average size 6 pm), by the company Shin Etsu, (INCI name: VINYL 15 DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER), organosilicon particle powders, for example in the form of bowls or rugby balls such as those described in JP-2003 128 788, JP-A-2000-191789, or in application EP1579841 and marketed in particular under the names NLK506© (average size 2.6 pm) and NLK602© (average size 2.3 pm) by the company TAKEMOTO OIL & FAT, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon 12, those sold under the name ORGASOL® 2002 (average size 9 pm) by the company ARKEMA, or ethylene dimethacrylate copolymer powder, glycol / lauryl methacrylate sold under the name POLYTRAP® 6603 (average size 12.2 pm) by the company DOW CORNING. Metal oxides

[0289] The fillers suitable for the invention may also be chosen from metal oxides, for example iron, zinc, titanium, zirconium, aluminum oxide, preferably iron oxide.

[0290] The metal oxide(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 7% to 15% by weight.

[0291] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles, modified or unmodified starches, and mixtures thereof.

[0292] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 3%, or even at least 6%, by weight of at least one filler as defined above.

[0293] In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 6.0% and 60% by weight, in particular between 8.0% and 50% by weight, in particular between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] Advantageously, the kit or the final composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders.

[0295] By filler, we mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0296] The fillers used in the present invention can be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3), their unpacked density, and / or their oil absorption capacity.

[0297] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0298] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM x p^^^where p is the tapped density expressed in g / cm3 and $4 is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0299] In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density:

[0300] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the cylinder is placed on the ST AV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tampings (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of tamped powder is measured directly on the cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). The oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining powder oil uptake described in standard NF T 30-022.It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: .

[0301] A quantity m= 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, it is mixed with a spatula and the oil is continued to be added until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then kneaded with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracking or lumps forming. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

[0302] The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0303] The sizes of the charges can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0304] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g / g to 3.5 g / g, preferably of 0.93 g / g to 2.5 g / g, or even of 1.25 g / g to 2.5 g / g.

[0305] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 pm to 40 pm, preferably from 0.5 pm to 20 pm, and even more preferably ally from 1 pm to 4 pm.

[0306] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have an unpacked density ranging from 0.2 g / cm3 to 2.2 g / cm3.

[0307] According to a particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 to 1000 m2 / g, and more particularly from 150 to 800 m2 / g.

[0308] In the present application, the term "spherical particles" means particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100°C).

[0309] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical particles of porous silica are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 pm, more particularly from 1 to 20 pm, and preferably from 1 to 16 pm.

[0310] As an example of porous silica microbeads, the following commercial products can be used: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferably SB 300 from the company MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, in particular the Sunsphere H-51 or the Sunsphère 12L, Sunsphère H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from the company Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from the company Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from the company Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically Satinier M13 and M16, MSS-500 silicas from KOBO, and more specifically MSS-500-20N, as well as Silica Shells from KOBO.

[0311] According to a particular embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles usable in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 pm, preferably from 1 to 20 pm, and more particularly from 4 to 15 pm.

[0312] As examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, mention may in particular be made of the solid cellulose beads marketed under the names CEL-LULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

[0313] The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid may be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine.

[0314] According to a particular embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid(s) comprise an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, this is the lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder may be a lauroyl lysine powder such as that marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by the company AJINOMOTO or that marketed under the name CORUM 5105 S by the company CORUM. Coloring matters

[0315] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or non-water-soluble coloring matter, and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0316] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0317] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of coloring materials, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0318] As specified above, the coloring materials suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.

[0319] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0320] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0321] Water-soluble colorants are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0322] For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble coloring matter” means any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0323] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0324] The particulate coloring materials may be present in an amount of 0.01% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0325] These may in particular be pigments, nacres and / or particles with metallic reflections.

[0326] By “pigments” is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them.

[0327] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0328] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight and more preferably at least 15% by weight, of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0329] The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0330] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0331] It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of around 30.

[0332] It may also be a question of pigments having a structure which may be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Bail PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being made up of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0333] Advantageously, the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.

[0334] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized, and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0335] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0336] The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matter.

[0337] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0338] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can cite the Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome mother-of-pearls (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the Timiron mother-of-pearls marketed by the company Merck, the Prestige mother-of-pearls based on mica marketed by the company Eckart and the Sunshine mother-of-pearls based on synthetic mica marketed by the company Sun Chemical.

[0339] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0340] Advantageously, the nacres in accordance with the invention are micas covered with titanium dioxide or iron oxide as well as bismuth oxychloride.

[0341] By "metallic reflective particles", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface condition allows it to reflect incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner.

[0342] The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; - particles comprising a substrate, organic or mineral, single-material or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one layer with a metallic sheen comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative; and - mixtures of said particles.

[0343] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0344] By “metal derivatives” is meant compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0345] By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart and glass particles covered with a metallic layer, in particular those described in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710. Hydrophobic treatment of coloring materials

[0346] The powdery coloring materials as described above can be surface-treated, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, in particular so that they have good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.

[0347] Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in document EP-A-1086683.

[0348] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; hexafluoropropylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above designates in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. “Assets” functional block

[0350] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0351] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0352] The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0353] As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0354] The additional active ingredient(s) may in particular be chosen from: - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide) nicotinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives (vitamin C), retinol (Vitamin A), - humectants or moisturizers such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylglucoside and plant extracts (in particular tea, mint, orchid, soy, aloe vera, honey, and in particular glycerol; - C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (or proxylane); - antioxidant compounds; - anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid sodium salt;

[0355] - keratolytic agents such as lactic acid or glycolic acid; and - their mixtures. C-glycoside compounds

[0356] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular of the following general formula:

[0357] [Chem.4] S^^X— R

[0358] in which: - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular methyl; - S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0359] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of the C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be mentioned: - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; - 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane; - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0360] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (or proxylane).

[0361] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula illustrated above suitable for the invention may preferably be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Te-trahydropyrantriol, in particular available under the name Mexoryl SBB®, Mexoryl SCN® or Mexoryl SCS® by Novéal.

[0362] Salts of C-glycosides suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.

[0363] By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0364] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol may be mentioned.

[0365] The C-glycosides of formula illustrated above are known from document WO 02 / 051828.

[0366] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside in an amount of between 0.1% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly between 1.0% and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Niacinamide compound

[0367] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from niacinamide compounds, in particular chosen from niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N-picolylniacinamide, N-allylniacinamide. According to a preferred embodiment, the niacinamide compound is niacinamide.

[0368] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of adenosine or analog, relative to the total weight of the composition. Adenosine and its analogues

[0369] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from adenosine and its analogues.

[0370] Among the adenosine analogues which can be used according to the invention, mention will in particular be made of adenosine receptor agonists and compounds which increase intra or extracellular levels of adenosine.

[0371] Examples of adenosine analogs include 2'-deoxyadenosine; 2',3'-isopropoylidene adenosine, toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside; 6-chloropurine riboside, 5'-adenosine monophosphate; 5'-adenosine diphosphate and 5'-adenosine triphosphate, phenylisopropyl-adenosine ("PIA"), I-methylisoguanosine, N-6-Cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N-6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5' (N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy3-nonyl) adenine ("EHNA") and iodotubercidine.

[0372] Adenosine is commercially available in powder form from the company PHARMA WALDHOF.

[0373] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight of adenosine or analog, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ascorbic acid and derivatives

[0374] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, and / or one of its derivatives.

[0375] Ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and glycosylated ascorbic acid.

[0376] As derivatives of ascorbic acid, mention may in particular be made of ose esters of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

[0377] The ose esters of ascorbic acid which can be used in the invention are in particular the glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-aD glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or even 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds as well as their preparation processes are in particular described in documents EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and J05213736.

[0378] For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0379] Suitable ascorbic acid derivatives according to the present invention may be chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by the company Exsymol, the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by the company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by the company Hayashibara.

[0380] Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is preferably used.

[0381] A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hyaluronic acid

[0382] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0383] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0384] [Chem.5]

[0385] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl glucosamine.

[0386] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a sequence by alternating glycosidic bonds [3(1,4) and [3(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.

[0387] The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

[0388] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in joint synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristagalli apophysis.

[0389] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range mentioned above.

[0390] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions which do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

[0391] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System”, R.Stem et al, European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular weight.

[0392] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, we speak of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0393] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions which may also be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, we speak of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

[0394] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, we speak of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0395] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylenated alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5 to 50%.

[0396] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl esters, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have been described in particular in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0397] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0398] Hyaluronic acid may in particular be supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (PM: 1.1 x 106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (PM: 820000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (PM: 69000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (PM: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (PM: 380 Da).

[0399] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are marketed by BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Sphere. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely PM 1.5 x 106, 400000 and 600000 Da.

[0400] Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used.

[0401] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 3% and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Salicylic acid compounds

[0402] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from salicylic acid compounds.

[0403] The salicylic acid compound present in a composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula:

[0404] [Chem.6]

[0405] in which: - the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which can be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group; as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base.

[0406] Preferably, the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; as well as their salts obtained by salification by a mineral or organic base.

[0407] The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C3-Cn alkyl group.

[0408] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds, mention may be made of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0409] The salicylic acid compound is preferably selected from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

[0410] The salts of the compounds of formula illustrated above can be obtained by salification by a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, mention may be made of alkali or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia.

[0411] Among the organic bases, amines and alkanolamines may be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

[0412] The compounds of formula illustrated above which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378 936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, EP-A-570,230.

[0413] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least at least one salicylic acid compound in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight. Plant extract

[0414] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plant extract, in particular an aloe vera extract.

[0415] The aloe vera extract may be present, in a composition according to the invention, at a content of at least 0.01% by weight, and at most 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0416] The material preferably used is known under the commercial reference ALOE VERA FREEZE DRIED POWDER 200:1 from MEXI ALOE LAB. Retinol

[0417] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise retinol, otherwise known as Vitamin A.

[0418] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "retinol" means all isomers of retinol, in particular all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4-didehydroretinol.

[0419] Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

[0420] A composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of retinol of between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, in particular of between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably of between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight, and more preferably of between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0421] It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of retinol introduced into the composition.

[0422] According to a particular embodiment variant, the retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, in particular in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably approximately 10% by weight in the oil.

[0423] Particularly suitable are those marketed by the company BASF, in particular under the name Retinol 10SU, at 10% by weight of active ingredient in soybean oil.

[0424] According to another particular embodiment variant, the retinol can also be implemented in an encapsulated form.

[0425] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from humectants, preferably glycerin; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate; acid compounds salicylic acid, and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl sa-licylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts, retinoids, in particular retinol, niacinamide compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0426] Even more preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one anti-aging cosmetic active agent, in particular chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0427] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active ingredient(s), in particular anti-aging active ingredient(s), preferably from 1% to 8% by weight of active ingredient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0428] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from C-glycoside compounds, preferably chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (or proxylane).

[0429] Protective block - UV filters Organic UV filters

[0430] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These may be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters and insoluble organic UV filters.

[0431] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0432] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0433] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of produced in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solid after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0434] Organic UV filters are notably chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649;4,4-diarylbutadien compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EPI33981 and mixtures thereof.;

[0435] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name. Cinnamic compounds:

[0436] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0437] Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0438] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

[0439] DEA Methoxycinnamate,

[0440] Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

[0441] Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0442] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0443] Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane. Para-aminobenzoic compounds:

[0444] PABA,

[0445] Ethyl PABA,

[0446] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

[0447] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name “ESCALOL 507®” by ISP,

[0448] Glyceryl PABA,

[0449] PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF. Salicylic compounds:

[0450] Homosalate sold under the name “Eusolex HMS®” by Rona / EM Industries,

[0451] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS®” by Symrise,

[0452] Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name “DIPSAL ®” by SCHER,

[0453] TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise. P,P-diphenylacrylate compounds:

[0454] Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 539®” by BASF,

[0455] Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF. Benzophenone compounds:

[0456] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name “UVINUL 400®” by BASF,

[0457] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name “UVINUL D 50®” by BASF,

[0458] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,

[0459] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name “UVINUL MS 40®” by BASF,

[0460] Benzophenone-5,

[0461] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,

[0462] Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24®” by American Cyanamid,

[0463] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name* UVINUL DS 49®» by BASF,

[0464] Benzophenone-12,

[0465] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle sold under the trade name “UVINUL A Plus ®” or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL A Plus B®” by the company BASF,

[0466] 1,1 '-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[ l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion. Benzylidene camphor compounds:

[0467] 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SD®” by CHIMEX,

[0468] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX 6300®” by MERCK,

[0469] Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,

[0470] Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,

[0471] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,

[0472] Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX. Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

[0473] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:

[0474] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER. Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

[0475] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0476] Methylene bis-(hvdroxvphénvl benzotriazole) compounds:

[0477] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hi0O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hi0O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB M®” by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles micronized having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C20)alkyl-ester of poly-glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392., Triazine compounds:

[0478] - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula:

[0479] [Chem.l]

[0480] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB S®” by BASF,

[0481] - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL T 150® » by BASF,

[0482] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB HEB ®» by SIGMA 3V,

[0483] - dineopentyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

[0484] - diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

[0485] - n-butyl 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0486] - 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate of n- butyl)-s-triazine,

[0487] - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0488] - triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups such as described as patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethyl-isilyl-ioxy]-disiloxa nyl]propyl)amino]-s-triazine. Anthranilic compounds:

[0489] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA®” by Symrise. Imidazoline compounds:

[0490] Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate. Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0491] Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE. 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Compounds:

[0492] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene. Benzoxazole compounds:

[0493] 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine sold as Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.

[0494] Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi :

[0495] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0496] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0497] Homosalate,

[0498] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0499] Octocrylene,

[0500] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0501] Benzophenone-3,

[0502] Benzophenone-4,

[0503] Benzophenone-5,

[0504] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle,

[0505] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

[0506] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0507] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

[0508] Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol,

[0509] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

[0510] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0511] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0512] 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

[0513] 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

[0514] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0515] 2,4-bis-(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

[0516] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

[0517] 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,

[0518] 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

[0519] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0520] Polysilicone-15,

[0521] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

[0522] 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine,

[0523] and mixtures thereof.

[0524] The particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from:

[0525] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0526] Homosalate,

[0527] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0528] Octocrylene,

[0529] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate,

[0530] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0531] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0532] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0533] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0534] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0535] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

[0536] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0537] and mixtures thereof.

[0538] According to a first particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

[0539] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0540] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0541] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0542] Octocrylene,

[0543] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0544] and mixtures thereof.

[0545] According to a second particular embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

[0546] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0547] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0548] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0549] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0550] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0551] and mixtures thereof.

[0552] According to a preferred embodiment, the organic UV filters are chosen from:

[0553] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0554] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0555] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0556] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0557] and mixtures thereof.

[0558] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term "free of octocrylene" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene.

[0559] The organic UV filters may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional UV filters

[0560] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

[0561] The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[0562] They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

[0563] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK AND DEGUSSA.

[0564] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0565] Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0566] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:

[0567] - silica such as the products "SUNVEIL®" from the company IKEDA, "SUNSIL TIN 50” from SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE company,

[0568] - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA,

[0569] - silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE,

[0570] - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14 / 4" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

[0571] - alumina and aluminum stearate such as "MICROTITANIUM" products DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK,

[0572] - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ®" from the TAYCA company,

[0573] - of alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S®" from TAYCA,

[0574] - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F®" from TAYCA,

[0575] - zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the company's product "BR 351®" TAYCA,

[0576] - of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICRO- TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from the company TAYCA,

[0577] - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as product “STT-30-DS®” from the company TITAN KOGYO,

[0578] - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" from the SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS company,

[0579] - alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)®" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262®" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

[0580] - triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from the company TITAN KOGYO,

[0581] - stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA,

[0582] - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" from TAYCA,

[0583] - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name “T 805®” by the company DEGUSSA SILICES,

[0584] - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name com commercial "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company CARDRE,

[0585] - anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HY-DROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES,

[0586] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) from CRODA,

[0587] - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the denomination commercial nominationSolaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA),

[0588] - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name mination LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50,

[0589] - TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

[0590] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters.We can cite more particularly the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA.

[0591] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "Transparent titanium oxide PW®", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".

[0592] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0593] - those marketed under the name “Z-cote” by the company Sunsmart;

[0594] - those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis;

[0595] - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0596] Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

[0597] - those marketed under the name "Oxide zinc CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane);

[0598] - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the Nanophase Technologies company (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols);

[0599] - those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAL TOPERSION Zn-50®" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane);

[0600] - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);

[0601] - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

[0602] - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone);

[0603] - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by the Fuji company Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

[0604] - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols with poly-condensate of hydroxystearic acid).

[0605] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOÏDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC.

[0606] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name "TY- 220®".

[0607] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345®", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by the company BASF under the name "OXYDE DE FER TRANSPARENT®".

[0608] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

[0609] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0610] When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the mineral UV filters are advantageously present at a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0611] Finally, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition obtained from the cosmetic kit as defined above.

[0612] Shapes and textures of the compositions according to the invention

[0613] The cosmetic kit according to the invention comprises:

[0614] - on the one hand a basic formula composition (a) of composition conforming to the invention, and

[0615] - on the other hand one or more compositions (b),

[0616] in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously.

[0617] Advantageously, the kit and the block mixing method of the invention allow the manufacture of at least one cosmetic product with a personalized texture, for example directly in the final container. Said base composition (engine block) is mixed in blocks with one or more other compositions or blocks, in particular pre-formulated ones, said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 200 to 2800 rpm, preferably 200 to 2500 rpm, preferably using a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the container (or "pack" or “packaging”) final of said cosmetic product supplied to the user.

[0618] The composition according to the invention may be in liquid form, in the form of a serum, a milk, in thickened form, in particular a gel, a cream, a wax, a paste, a butter or in the form of a mousse.

[0619] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional compounds chosen from non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative, silicones in the form of oil, gums or resins or non-silicone vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, UV filters, fillers, such as nacres and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides, clays, cosmetic active ingredients, perfumes, peptizing agents, vitamins and preservatives.

[0620] The technical characteristics described above concerning the different ingredients of the BM composition used according to the present invention also apply of course to any cosmetic composition prepared from the composition of this BM.

[0621] Finally, the subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0622] From a consumer experience perspective, skincare personalization is based on 3 key steps:

[0623] 1) The diagnosis which allows to analyze the state of the skin and to recommend to the consumer a personalized routine,

[0624] 2) An e-order interface to define and order the personalized product, and Finally

[0625] 3) Reception of personalized products.

[0626] Technically, the global customization offer can further include a diagnostic step to guide the recommendation to the consumer, to complete the simple and agile formulation system, in particular by blocks in the form of a kit according to the invention, which allows a wide range of textures and functions, as well as an industrial tool adapted to customization such as the micro-factory.

[0627] The present invention therefore also relates to a method comprising at least the following steps:

[0628] 1) a diagnostic step which allows the condition of the skin to be analyzed and recommendations to be made to the consumer a personalized routine

[0629] 2) a step of ordering at least one personalized kit, preferably by a e-command interface

[0630] 3) a possible step of simple and agile formulation which allows a wide range of textures and functions

[0631] 4) a step of receiving the personalized kit(s) or the final formula by the consumer.

[0632] The composition according to the invention is not limited to the embodiments which have just been described.

[0633] Protocols for measuring the parameters cited and measured in the present description of the invention:

[0634] Protocol for measuring the biomechanical properties (extensibility, tone) of the skin by PTM:

[0635] Skin elasticity was assessed by the following DTM parameters: Extensibility Ue and Tonicity Ur, using the device available under the trade name Dermal Torque Meter® from DTM® Dia-Stron Limited, Andover, Hampshire, UK. This device allows the study of the skin's response to a deformation applied in the direction parallel to its surface, as described in Escoffier C et al., Age-Related Mechanical Properties of Human Skin: an In Vivo Study, J. Invest. DermatoL, 1989, 93:353-357.

[0636] Study conditions: Measurements are carried out in an air-conditioned area at a constant temperature of 21°C ± 1°C and a constant humidity of 45% ± 5% (recorded at each measurement). The subject is placed in the air-conditioned area, with the measurement areas uncovered, 20 minutes before the measurements and throughout the measurement period. Consumption of coffee, tea, and any other substance likely to cause sweating is prohibited. Subjects must avoid bending or rubbing on the test areas. During the measurements, subjects must be seated with their forearms resting on a flat, rigid surface (table).

[0637] Product application: The sites, without any hairiness, are marked on the inside of the forearms (4 sites on each forearm), using a mask and a pen that are not likely to run during application of the product. The precise measurement areas are delimited by a mask forming a circle of 4 cm in diameter. A control area is necessary. The sites are randomized. The quantity of product applied is 2 mg / cm2 under standard conditions. The product is applied with a finger until completely absorbed. In the case of several products, the fingering must be changed before each application.

[0638] Measurements: Measurements must be carried out in a double-blind fashion, for each evaluation time and for each zone. Each zone is measured once in different areas.

[0639] Sample size: The evaluation is carried out on a sample of 24 subjects.

[0640] Descriptive analysis: A descriptive analysis is performed on the demographic data. Quantitative variables are evaluated for each time point and for [Ti-TO] for each formula, by calculating the mean, standard deviation, and max and min values. Qualitative variables are evaluated by calculating the frequency.

[0641] Statistical analyses: Time effect for each formula - file split by formula (8 with 7 formulas and a control: the untreated area). Analysis of variance (ANOVA) with fixed factor (time), random factor (subject) on the raw data if the data follow the normal minimum otherwise in the ranks. Normality test carried out on the residuals.

[0642] Comparison of time with Tukey test.

[0643] Comparison of products: Analysis of variance (ANOVA) on deltas (Ti-TO) with fixed factor [products] and random factor [subject] on raw data if data follows normal minimum otherwise in ranks. Normality test performed on residuals.

[0644] Product comparison with Tukey test.

[0645] Statistical analysis is performed using SPSS software.

[0646] Significant statistical probability (noted “S”) p<0.05

[0647] Probability close to significance (noted “L”) 0.05<=p<0.1

[0648] No significant probability (noted “NS”) p>=0.1

[0649] Materials and methods used in the present description of the invention:

[0650] - Planetary mixer: Speedmixer® TM DAC400FVZ. The speed of the mixer is set (in rpm) and the mixing time (in minutes) as indicated in the test examples below.

[0651] - The viscosity of the composition is measured at room temperature (25°C) using of a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscometer equipped with a spindle No. 3 or 4 (M3, M4), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the product (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at a shear of 200 s-1. The results are given in UD (Deflection Unit), then using an Abaque transcribed in Poise then in Pa.s-1. In the context of the present invention, the cone / plane or plane / plane geometry was used.

[0652] - Consistency and flow behavior of low-deficiency samples formation were obtained by rheological measurements using a Thermo Fisher Scientific Haake Mars III rheometer (Massachusetts, USA) using a cone / plate geometry. Samples were taken with a spatula (approximately 1 ml) from the center of the surface with the minimum possible shear. The HAAKE RheoWin software from Thermo Fisher Scientific was used. The program begins by lowering the disk to 1 mm above the plate. Then, the oscillating disk sweeps the sample with a deformation of 0.05 Pa to 500 Pa at a frequency of 1 Hz. temperature is kept constant at 20±1°C. The titanium disc used has a conical shape and has been sandblasted, its dimensions are 60.005 mm in diameter, 0.053 mm truncation and a cone angle of 1.008°, its geometric factors of 1.768x104 Pa / Nm for factor A and 56.84 (l / s) / (rad / s) for factor M. The complex shear modulus, G* (Pa), was obtained as a function of the deformation shear stress, r (Pa). The rheological behavior of the formulas was analyzed. Measurements of the storage moduli G', loss or dissipation G” made it possible to determine the complex modulus G* as well as the phase shift ô between stress and deformation. These data are analyzed as a function of the shear stress. The value of the complex modulus G* at the plateau preceding the break in the curve gives an idea of ​​the consistency of the product at rest. Examples

[0653] The following examples allow a better understanding of the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0654] Tests used in the examples to evaluate the robustness of the BM used in the kit of the invention and associated Protocols:

[0655] [Tableauxl] Acid pH test (pH4.5) Adjust the pH to 4.5 with a 7M citric acid solution (143.08 g / 100 mL) - Visually observe the evolution at T0, T24h, Isem, Imois, 2mois, of the appearance: homogeneity OK or NOK release (water base, oily phase on the surface) - pH monitoring up to 2 months Tamb and 45°C: if pH variation > 0.5 => NOK / if pH variation < 0.5 => OK Dilution test in water (water / BM: 80 / 20, 70 / 30, 60 / 40, 50 / 50) In a polypropylene (PP) pot (185 ml) incorporate the BM at different concentrations 20g, 30g, 40g and 50g and the water QSP 100. Shake at Speedmixer® (DAC 400) 2 min at 2750 rpm Visually observe the evolution at T0, T24h, Isem, Imois, 2mois, of the appearance: homogeneity OK or release NOK (water base, oily phase on the surface) of the mixture NaCl test In a PP pot (185 ml) incorporate 96 g of BM and 4 g of the aqueous NaCl solution (25% in water) Shake with Speedmixer® (DAC 400) 2 min at 2750 rpm Visually observe at T0, T24h, Isem, Imois,2 months the appearance: homogeneity OK / release NOK (water base, oily phase on the surface) or if necessary to move to a lower mobile for viscosity measurement (e.g.: M3=>M2) NOK C entri-fugation test of the BM alone Incorporate 10 g of formula into a centrifugation tube Shake 1 h at 3000 rpm Observe at T0 visually and under the microscope the appearance of the centrifuged BM: homogeneity OK / release (water base, oily phase on the surface) NOK Emulsification of the oils: 4 oils are tested separately: Jojoba oil, Make 200 g of formula by incorporating 54% of the BM, 10% of oil, and water qsp 100 in a PP 600 pot (750ml) Shake in the Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 4 min at 2750 rpm; then 1) Visually observe the T0 appearance (OK homogeneity / NOK release); then 2) Centrifugation at T0: OK homogeneity / release (water pellet, Dimethicone, Squalane, C15-19 ALKANE (Emogreen L15) oil phase on the surface) NOK; then 3) Accelerated aging / rheology (G* consistency at rest = ratio between the elastic component G' / viscous G”): measurement at 2 months with the HAAKE MARS III rheometer of G* at 2m T45°C, G* at 2m Tamb: if G* Tamb - T45°C > 50% NOK, if variation <50% OK Test Emulsification jojoba oil + NaCl Emulsification of jojoba oil 10% at 25°C with Speedmixer® 4' 2750 RPM + 1% NaCl Speedmixer® 4' 2750 RPM, then Visually observe the appearance: homogeneity OK / NOK release (water base, oily phase on the surface) or if it is necessary to switch to a lower spindle for viscosity measurement (e.g.: M3=>M2) NOK Test Ultra centri ULTRAcentrifugation 30 mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% jojoba oil + 1% NaCL,then visually observe the appearance: homogeneity OK (water base accepted here) / release NOK = oily phase on the surface) Extreme test with 10% jojoba oil + 1% NaCl ULTRAcentrifugation 2X 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C + 5h 10000 RPM 40°C: homogeneity OK / release (water base, oily phase on the surface) NOK.,

[0656] Example 1 - Comparison: methods according to the invention vs. conventional method

[0657] The following compositions were prepared according to the methods described below:

[0658] [Tables2] INCI Exl Cp2 Ex3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.05 0.05 0.05 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 4.50 4.50 4.50 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 4.50 4.50 4.50 SALICYLIC ACID 0.18 0.18 0.18 AQUA 71.32 71.32 71.32 PROPANEDIOL 4.50 4.50 4.50 HYDROXYACETOPHENON E 0.45 0.45 0.45 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4.50 4.50 4.50 C15-19 ALKANE 10.00 10.00 10.00 MANUFACTURING TOOLS low energy: planetary Speedmixer® (no moving parts, directly in the packaging) high energy: classic industrial tank with rotor / stator high energy: classic industrial tank with rotor / stator Type of assembly FORMULATION BY BLOCKS Engine block 90% + 10% Oil continuous industrial formulation continuous industrial formulation Industrial advantage Agile: from a single block you can create several personalized compositions 1 single product is manufactured in large quantities 1 single product is manufactured in large quantities Temperature (T, °C) of oil introduction 25°C 70°C 30°CMixing speed 2750 rpm 4500 rpm 2000 rpm Oil emulsification time 2-4 mins 30 mins 10-15 mins CONSISTENCY G* (Pa) 13,000 Pa 940 Pa 18,000 Pa TEXTURE high consistency: thick cream medium consistency: soft cream that flows easily under shear high consistency: thick cream Flow threshold (Pa) 31.83 14.24 32.28 LIGHT MICROSCOPY EP x40 diluted and LPxlO undiluted at RT Presence of spherulites that respond in polarized light in the form of a Maltese cross with large drops of oil without birefringence around the drops No spherulites, no Maltese cross but drops of oil with birefringence around the drops Presence of spherulites that respond in polarized light in the form of a Maltese cross malt with large drops of oil next to it without birefringence around the drops OPTICAL MICROSCOPY DICx20 diluted and undiluted at TA (ambient T°,25°C) Coarse ovoid drops 20 pm Round drops 100 pm Fairly coarse elongated drops 10-20 pm DSC high enthalpy: 11.9 J / g (sample 19.18 g) Melting peak: 59°C low enthalpy: 2.4 J / g (Solubilization of fatty alcohol by hot oil) (sample 20.61 g) 1st peak at 43 °C and 2nd Melting peak: high enthalpy 10.2 J / g (sample 19.18 g) Melting peak: 58°C, 60°C CENTRIFUGATION T0,TA (25°C) OK homogeneous and stable OK homogeneous and stable OK homogeneous and stable 1 WEEK 55°C Appearance soft homogeneous cream micro: coarse but homogeneous emulsion PHASE SHIFT: Wax on the surface and liquid at the bottom micro: Wax clumps Appearance soft homogeneous cream micro: coarse but homogeneous emulsion PLAY TIME & TOUCH at TA More consistent a little less slippery, a little less fresh, slightly less sticky, nude skin finish, no greasy and satiny effect More fluid, slight transformation, very slippery, and fresh, a little more sticky, and more oily and shiny skin finish Advantages of spherulites versus without spherulites thicker texture (G*2x>), stability (stable at Isem 55°C) and senso nude finish, no solubilization of fatty alcohols by the oil (therefore enthalpy >10 J / g) more fluid texture (G*2x<), stability (phase shift at Isem 55°C) and senso oily finish, solubilization of fatty alcohols by oil (therefore enthalpy <10 J / g) thicker texture (G*2x>),stability (stable at Isem 55°C), no solubilization of fatty alcohols by the oil (therefore enthalpy >10 J / g) Characteristic markers of the process in the composition obtained LP microscopy / enthalpy > for the same FIL LP microscopy / enthalpy < for the same FIL LP microscopy / enthalpy > for the same FIL,

[0659] Completely unexpectedly, for the cold emulsification process according to the invention Exl or Ex3, despite a coarse emulsion at room temperature with oil drops of average size 20 μm, the stability of the composition thus obtained is better and the skin finish more natural (“NUDE”) and less sticky than with the composition obtained by the conventional hot emulsification process of comparison 2.

[0660] The process according to the invention, carried out cold (T° 20-30°C) with a mixing speed between 1000 and 3000 rpm is therefore particularly advantageous.

[0661] Example 2 - Optimization of the BM used in the method of the invention

[0662] [Tables3] INCI Cp5 Cp6 Cp7 Cp8 Cp9 CplO AQUA 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.00 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE 3.00 SUCROSE LAURATE 1.50 SUCROSE PALMITATE 1.50 SORBITAN LAURATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURATE (and) DILAURYL CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DISTEARATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-3 ME- THYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 3.00 pH stability test acid (pH 4.5) OK NOK NOK OK OK OK Heating test at 45°C OK OK NOK NOK OK OK Heating test at 75°C OK NOK NOK NOK NOK NOK Electrolyte sensitivity test (1% NaCl) OK NOK Emulsification test OILS 25°C, Speedmixer®, Appearance OK NOK OK NOK NOK NOK Stability test 2 months 25°C OK OK NOK NOK NOK Stability test 2 months 45°C NOK NOK NOK NOK NOK

[0663] Compositions Cp6 to CplO do not withstand the “first elimination tests” (Acid pH stability test (pH 4.5), 45°C heating test, Heating test at 75°C, Electrolyte Sensitivity Test 1% NaCl):

[0664] Composition Cp6 is unstable at acid pH and sensitive to electrolytes (1% NaCl). Cp7 is unstable at acid pH; compositions Cp8 to Cpl0 do not withstand at least one of the heating tests (45°C and / or 75°C).

[0665] Among all the surfactants tested (Potassium stearate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, Sucrose laurate / palmitate, Sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate / glyceryl stearate citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose distearate, cetearyl glucoside) in association with Cetearyl alcohol in water, only Cetearyl glucoside of composition Cp5 (Alkylpolyglucoside, non-ionic) is robust to the "first elimination tests", as well as to the emulsification test of oils of different natures, and to the stability test at room temperature (2 months at 25°C). Cp5 is however not stable in the stability test at 45°C (2 months at 45°C).

[0666] Example 3 - Choice of fatty substances and optimization of fatty substance / diol contents in the BM

[0667] [Tables4] INCI US Cpll Cpl2 Exl3 Cpl4 Cpl5 Cpl6 WATER 79,24 79,24 79,24 79,24 79,24 79,25 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8,00 6 4 2 7,00 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 1,38 2,75 4,12 5,5 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0,75 1,5 2,25 3,00 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 2,00 1,50 1,00 0,50 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0,38 0,75 1,13 1,50 POLYGLYCERYL-3 ME- THYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 3,00 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 PROPANEDIOL 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 HYDROXYACETOPHENON E 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 SALICYLIC ACID 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,05 Test pH Acide OK OK OK OK OK OK Test DILUTION EAU OK OK OK OK OK NOK Test 1% NaCl OK OK OK NOK NOK OK Test Emulsification HUILES (diff natures) à Tamb au Speedmixer®, aspect : OK OK OK NOK NOK NOK Test Centrifugation HUILES Ih, 3000 rpm OK OK OK NOK NOK NOK Test Stabilité HUILES 2m45°C NOK NOK OK OK OK NOK

[0668] Cetearyl alcohol-based BM effectively stabilized emulsified oil drops at room temperature using a low-energy mixing tool (Speedmixer®). However, depending on the nature of the oils, solubilization of the fatty chains may occur during storage for 2 months at 45°C, fluidizing the system (creaming). The combination of Cetearyl Alcohol with longer fatty chain fatty alcohols (Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Alcohol) improved significantly this stability at the temperature of 45 °C.

[0669] The table above indicates that the best results in the emulsification and stability tests of cold-formed emulsions (25°C) were obtained for the following combination of ingredients in the following proportions:

[0670] - mixture of the following fatty substances, with weight contents of each ingredient (INCI) on the total weight of the composition meeting the following criteria:

[0671] Cetearyl alcohol content > Arachidyl alcohol content > Behenyl alcohol content

[0672] Similarly, better results are observed if the following APGs are used and the contents of these APGs meet the following criteria in the composition:

[0673] Cetearyl glucoside content > Arachidyl glucoside content

[0674] - the propylene glycol and / or propanediol content, when it is greater than the Cetearyl alcohol content, helps stabilize the emulsion, particularly at 45°C.

[0675] The following tables also confirm this criterion of interest:

[0676] Propylene glycol content or propanediol content > content of each fatty alcohol.

[0677] Compositions Cpl2 and Cpl5 do not meet this last criterion, do not pass the 2m 45°C stability tests and the cold emulsification test respectively.

[0678] Advantageously, these preferred criteria are valid for the BM composition as well as for the final composition which incorporates the BM.

[0679] According to Cpl4, when these preferred characteristics of order of content between fatty alcohols are not respected, the formula is not totally robust: NOK for the salification test by addition of electrolytes (1% NaCl) and NOK for the emulsification tests of oils.

[0680] Preferably, according to the invention, the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is therefore: greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of higher average chain length. The contents are indicated by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0681] Preferably, according to the invention, the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average lower alkyl chain length: is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average higher alkyl chain length.

[0682] For Cpl2, the emulsification of oils by BM after 2m 45°C is not stable. This shows the advantage of having a weight content of diol Al chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol preferably greater than or equal to the weight content of the majority fatty alcohol.

[0683] In the case of Cpl 1 and Cpl5 respectively where the composition contains only one alkylpolyglucoside, the stability test 2m 45°C shows that the formula is not stable, NOK; and the salification test (1% NaCl), shows that the formula is not stable, NOK.

[0684] Dilution test and obtaining textures from the most fluid to the thickest

[0685] The BM of Exl3 was diluted with water at room temperature (25°C) to obtain a liquid consistency. Four different samples were prepared in the Speedmixer® with respectively 50%, 40%, 30%, 20% by weight of BM in water (qsplOO). Stirring was done in the Speedmixer® (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm.

[0686] The samples showed very different textures. All were stable even after centrifugation, and visual and microscopic observations were similar to those of the original BM sample (homogeneous appearance).

[0687] Rheometer analysis shows that the consistencies (G*: the consistency of the product at rest) are in different ranges, from 100 Pa (most fluid consistency for the most diluted BM) to 1300 Pa (thickest consistency for the least diluted BM in water). Obtaining butter by emulsifying wax

[0688] The BM of Exl3 was used to emulsify 5% paraffin wax.

[0689] The product thus obtained has a buttery consistency, and has a particular application particularly soft on the skin.

[0690] The rheology 24 hours after manufacture indicates a consistency G*=1725 Pa.

[0691] Visual and microscopic observations show a dispersion similar to that of BM at room temperature.

[0692] The process carried out using an engine block according to the invention is robust, since it allows both the effective stabilization of oil emulsions, without requiring an additional stabilizer or gelling agent, and the production of several stable textures, from liquid consistency to butter consistency. Example 4 - Choice of diols

[0693] [Tables5] INCI Cpl 7 Cpl 8 Exl 9 Ex2 0 Cp2 1 Cp2 2 Cp2 3 Cp2 4 Cp25 Cp2 6 Ex2 7 WATER 90,0 0 88,0 0 82,5 0 82,5 0 82,5 0 82,5 0 82,5 0 82,5 0 82,50 82,5 0 82,5 0 PROPANEDIOL C3 5,50 2,00 7,50 2,00 PROPYLENE GLYCOL C3 2,00 2,00 5,50 7,50 BUTYLENE GLYCOL C4 7,50 PENTYLENE GLYCOL C5 7,50 1,2-hexanediol (C6) 7,50 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL C8 7,50 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 5,50 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (4,00) (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (1,00) 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (2,75) (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (1,5) (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (0,75) 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 Test Emulsi- crèm crèm crè crè crèm crèm crèm crèm crème crè crè 10% jojoba oil formulation, APPEARANCE T0 (according to the protocol described above) soft soft thick soft soft soft thick soft thick soft translucent thick soft, oily soft Emulsification CRE CRE OK OK OK OK liqui liqui liquid Liqu OK OILS ME ME CRE crem crem crem de de e ide cre JOJOBA 10% at D'EC D'EC ME eee NO NO NOK deph me TA Speedmixer OUL OUL KK ase ® 4min 2750 EE NO RPM NO NO K + 1% NaCl Speedmixer® 4' 2750 RPM, APPEARANCE: KK ULTRAcentrifuge NO OK OK OK NO OK NO OK NOK NO OK ation 30min 10000 rpm 40°C 10% JOJOBA oil + l%NaCl KKKK “Extreme” test NO OK OK NO OK with 10% jojoba oil + l%NaCl: ULTRA centrifugation 2X 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C + 5h 10000 RPM 40°CKK Conclusion of the tests OK OK NO NO NO NO NO NO K NO OK Tests and and ne ne KKK and depha K of Emulsification NO NO deph deph deph deph deph deph NO se deph KK oils ase ase ase ase ase K ase eco eco not not not flows out ule ule and and ule in in remains remains in penc penc cre cre penc hant hant me me hant the the the pot pot pot

[0694] The best results of BM emulsification tests are obtained for BM compositions based on two diols, in particular chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and di-propylene glycol, corresponding to Examples 19, 20 and 27 according to the invention. The compositions resulting from the cold emulsification, by BM, of the oils in the Speedmixer®, are particularly stable for these glycols. The stability in the NaCl Test measured by ultracentrifugation, is better for Propylene glycol or Dipropylene Glycol in association with 1,3-propanediol. With pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, or caprylyl glycol (alone) the cold emulsified composition is comparatively less stable, in particular in the NaCl Test, because the texture becomes fluid as soon as NaCl is added.

[0695] Preferably, propanediol is therefore used between 3 and 8%, combined with propylene glycol between 3 and 10% in the BM engine block composition of the invention.

[0696] Hexanediol (7%) or Caprylyl glycol (7%), used alone, depending on these contents, do not promote the emulsification of oils at room temperature in the Speedmixer® and the emulsions thus obtained (Cp25, Cp26) are not stable in the various tests, in particular in the extreme tests (ultracentrifugation 30 mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% jojoba oil + 1% NaCl).

[0697] Nevertheless, when used in combination with at least one of the above preferred diols, and used in amounts of less than 4%, preferably in the range of 1 to 3%, preferably 2 to 3%, by weight of the total weight of the BM composition, the diol(s) containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms reduce soaping, thus improving the intrinsic sensoriality of the BM, without creating instability problems during the emulsification of said BM, even in the Ultracentrifugation test, as shown in the following table, for several hexanediol contents.

[0698] [Tableauxô] INCI Cp28 Cp29 Cp30 Cp31 Cp32 AQUA qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4 4 4 4 4 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 1 1 1 1 1 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 5 5 5 5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 7.5 1 2 3 C15-19 ALKANE 5 5 5 5 5 Hand soaping NOK OK NOK NOK OK Texture cream cream + soft cream + soft cream + soft cream + soft ULTRAcentrifugation 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 5% EMOGREEN oil + 1%NACL Cream OK Liquid NOK OK OK Cream OK

[0699] When it enters into the composition of the BM, said second diol different from the first diol, and containing from 4 to 8 atoms, preferably represents a content by weight of less than 4%, preferably in the range of 1 to 3%, preferably of 2 to 3% by weight on the total weight of the BM composition.

[0700] For this reason, in the BM composition used according to the invention, and to guarantee the stability of the final emulsions incorporating it, the weight content of each fatty alcohol is preferably greater than the weight content of each of said optional A2 diols containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms (other than dipropylene glycol).

[0701] Example 5 - PTM test for two formulas with different textures: cream / serum

[0702] Composition of the textural blocks (engine block and water block) used in the 2 examples of Kits (1 and 2) below according to the invention:

[0703] [Tables7] Textural blocks Formulary base or BM PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 PROPANEDIOL 5 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.75 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 2.75 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 4 WATER / AQUA 79.243 HYDROXYACETOPHEN ONE 0.5 SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.057 Block Aqueous phase WATER / AQUA 89.243 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 PROPANEDIOL 5 HYDROXYACETOPHEN ONE 0.5 SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.057 Composition of Kits 1 and 2 according to the invention:

[0704] [Tables8] Kitl Kit 2 Textural blocks: Formula base or BM 61.73% 38.58% Aqueous phase block 15.43% 38.58% Functional blocks: Sensory block 5% 5% C15-19 ALKANE Active block 1 8.57% (3% MA) 8.57% (3% MA) HYDROXYPROPYL TE- TRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL Active block 2 9.27% ​​9.27% ​​Glycerin T>1 => thick cream texture T = 1 => serum DTM Test Results:

[0705] They are identical for both formulas.

[0706] The formulas of the example Kits 1 and 2 all improve the biomechanical parameters of the skin: extensibility (Ue) and tonicity (Ur) for 4 hours.

[0707] Whatever the texture obtained from the Kit, the block formulation according to the invention made it possible to improve the hydration and firmness of the skin according to identical performances for the serum (liquid fluid texture) as for the thick cream.

[0708] Composition of the final formulas obtained from Kits 1 and 2

[0709] [Tables9] INCI Final Formula of Kit Ex 1 (thick cream) Final Formula of Kit Ex 2 (liquid serum) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 3.0865 1.929 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.0865 1.929 PROPANEDIOL 3.858 3.858 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3.858 3.858 C15-19 ALKANE 5, 5, HYDROXYPROPYL TETRA- HYDROPYRANTRIOL 8.57 (3% MA) 8.57 (3% MA) GLYCERIN 9.27 9.27 HYDROXYACETOPHENON E 0.3858 0.3858 SALICYLIC ACID 0.1543 0.1543 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.044 0.044 WATER 62.6869 65.0019

[0710] Ultimately, the present invention succeeds in providing a kit allowing, from a versatile and versatile basic formula composition, to "design" any type of cosmetic texture, and to respond precisely to the requirements of each person, by proposing a cosmetic product best suited to the desired cosmetic experience without compromising on the expected performance.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic kit comprising: - On the one hand a textural block (a) comprising a formulating base composition and an aqueous phase; and - On the other hand a functional block (b) comprising one or more compositions, in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a final cosmetic formula, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product for the skin, mucous membranes, superficial body growths or hair; in which said formulating base comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: A) at least two diols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;and D) water, wherein the weight ratio R of the total amount of diols to the amount of major fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.75, and wherein the respective weight content of each of the lower average chain length fatty alcohols is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of the higher average chain length fatty alcohols.;

2. Kit according to claim 1, in which: - the textural block (a) represents a content of 35 to 95%, preferably 40 to 90%, preferably 50 to 85%, preferably 60 to 80%, preferably 70 to 80%; and - the functional block (b) represents a content of 5 to 65%, preferably 10 to 60%, preferably 15 to 50%, preferably 20 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%; by weight, on the total weight of the final formula representing 100%.

3. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which: - the formulating base represents from 40 to 100%, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight; - the aqueous phase representing from 0 to 60%, preferably from 10 to 50%, by weight; on the total weight of the textural block (a) representing 100%.

4. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio T, of the quantity of formula base (f) on the quantity of aqueous phase (e), is greater than, equal to or less than 1, and regulates the texture of the final formula according to the following trends: T > 1 gives a cream T = 1 gives a serum Tel gives a lotion.

5. Kit according to claim 4, wherein the aqueous phase (e) contains at least 90% water, preferably at least 95% water, preferably at least 98% water, on the total weight of aqueous phase representing 100%.

6. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said functional block (b) comprises at least one block chosen from the following blocks: 1) sensory or skin finish block, comprising fatty substances, such as oils; 2) visual effect block, comprising fillers and / or coloring materials; 3) active ingredient block(s), comprising moisturizing, firming, anti-aging, clarifying, or anti-blackhead agents; 4) protective block, comprising anti-UV filters; and mixtures thereof.

7. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the base composition comprises at least A) two diols comprising at least: - a first major diol chosen from those in list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol, - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those in said list A1 and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

8. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diols to the quantity of major fatty alcohol is greater than 1.

85.

9. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio RI of the total quantity of diols Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

10. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio RI' of the majority quantity of diol Al to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

11. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio RI” of the quantity of each diol Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

12. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the formulating base comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol being less than 1.

13. Kit according to claim 12, characterized in that the weight ratio R2' of the quantity of majority diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

14. Kit according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the weight ratio R2' ' of the quantity of each diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

15. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein the respective weight content of each of said lower average alkyl chain length alkylpolyglucosides is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said higher average alkyl chain length alkylpolyglucosides.

16. A kit according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidylpolyglucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1; preferably comprise, or are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1.

17. A method for preparing a cosmetic product with a personalized texture, from a kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said textural block (a) is mixed with the functional block (b), said mixture being carried out with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 25°C, preferably close to 25°C, preferably from 500 to 3000 rpm, preferably from 1000 to 3000 rpm, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

18. Non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and / or lips of a composition obtained according to the process of claim 17.