COMPOSITION INCLUDES A SOLUBILIZED POLYPHENOL
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022000440
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-14
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-01-19
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising a solubilized polyphenol technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including a solubilized polyphenol, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Polyphenols are known to have antioxidant effects that could confer cosmetic effects such as anti-aging effects. Consequently, cosmetic compositions comprising one or more polyphenols have been proposed. For example, document WO 2017 / 167 364 discloses a cosmetic composition including an extract of Hordeum vulgare seeds containing polyphenols. disclosure of the invention
[0003] However, in general, it is difficult to solubilize a polyphenol in an aqueous composition. Therefore, the use of the antioxidant effects of a polyphenol in an aqueous composition was limited.
[0004] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide an aqueous composition comprising a polyphenol which is solubilized therein.
[0005] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:
[0006] (a) at least one polyphenol;
[0007] (b) at least a first cationic polymer having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 450,000, preferably from 10,000 to 350,000, and even more preferably from 50,000 to 250,000, chosen from among the chitosans;
[0008] (c) at least one organic compound selected from the group consisting of as acid corbic acid, gluconolactone, gluconic acid, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof; and
[0009] (d) water
[0010] in which
[0011] the pH of the composition is from 3.0 to 5.0.
[0012] The (a) polyphenol may be selected from ellagic acid, punicalagins and mixtures thereof.
[0013] The (a) polyphenol can be derived from plants, preferably from Punica granatum.
[0014] The quantity of (a) polyphenol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.
[0015] The (b) first cationic polymer can be chosen from chitosans with a degree of acetylation greater than 3% and less than 10%.
[0016] The quantity of the (b) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The quantity of the (c) organic compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The quantity (d) of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one second cationic polymer selected from polylysines.
[0020] The quantity of the (e) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one polyol.
[0022] It is preferable that the (f) polyol be dipropylene glycol.
[0023] The quantity of the (f) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a transparent cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin-transparent cosmetic composition.
[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention
[0026] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose an aqueous composition comprising a polyphenol which is solubilized in it.
[0027] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0028] (a) at least one polyphenol;
[0029] (b) at least a first cationic polymer having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 450,000, preferably from 10,000 to 350,000, and even more preferably from 50,000 to 250,000, chosen from among the chitosans;
[0030] (c) at least one organic compound selected from the group consisting of as acid corbic acid, gluconolactone, gluconic acid, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof; and
[0031] (d) water
[0032] in which
[0033] the pH of the composition is from 3.0 to 5.0.
[0034] The (a) polyphenol can be solubilized in the composition according to the present invention.
[0035] The solubility of (a) polyphenol can be assessed by the transparency of the composition according to the present invention. For example, if the composition according to the present invention is homogeneous and transparent, this means that the (a) polyphenol of the composition is well solubilized therein.
[0036] It is preferable that the solubility of (a) polyphenol in the composition according to the present invention be maintained for a long period of time. Thus, it is preferable that (a) polyphenol be solubilized in the composition according to the present invention for a long period of time. In other words, it is preferable that the transparency of the composition according to the present invention be maintained for a long period of time.
[0037] The composition according to the present invention can be transparent for a month or more.
[0038] The (a) polyphenol solubilized in the composition according to the present invention can exert good antioxidant effects which could contribute to cosmetic effects such as anti-aging effects.
[0039] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can confer good cosmetic effects based on the antioxidant effects due to the (a) polyphenol it contains.
[0040] The present invention will be explained in more detail below.
[0041] [Composition]
[0042] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0043] (a) at least one polyphenol;
[0044] (b) at least a first cationic polymer having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 450,000, preferably from 10,000 to 350,000, and even more preferably from 50,000 to 250,000, chosen from among the chitosans;
[0045] (c) at least one organic compound selected from the group consisting of as acid corbic acid, gluconolactone, gluconic acid, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof; and
[0046] (d) water
[0047] in which
[0048] the pH of the composition is from 3.0 to 5.0.
[0049] (Polyphenol)
[0050] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyphenol. Only one type of polyphenol may be used, or two or more different types of polyphenols may be used in combination.
[0051] The term "polyphenol" is understood to designate a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. A phenolic hydroxyl group means a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may optionally be etherified or esterified.
[0052] The (a) polyphenol may have low solubility in water. Thus, the (a) polyphenol may have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight at room temperature (20°C to 25°C, preferably 25°C) without the (b) first cationic polymer, the (c) organic compound, and (d) water, explained later.
[0053] (a) Polyphenol may be an active ingredient or active compound in cosmetics or dermatological products. The term "active compound" used here refers to a compound that has an active cosmetic or dermatological property, such as antioxidant, whitening, and antibacterial effects. Preferably, (a) polyphenol should be chosen from among those with antioxidant activity.
[0054] The (a) polyphenol that can be used in the present invention can be made up of flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
[0055] Flavonoids may be selected from the group consisting of chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, tannins, and their derivatives. In particular, flavonoids may be tannins and their derivatives.
[0056] Tannins and their derivatives can be selected from the group consisting of ellagic acid, geraniin, catechins, procyanidin, profisetinidin, prodelphinidin, and their derivatives such as ellagitannin. Among these tannins, the present invention can, in particular, preferably utilize ellagic acid and ellagitannin, as (a) polyphenols because ellagic acid has antioxidant effects.
[0057] Ellagic acid is represented by the following chemical formula. Ellagic acid can be obtained, for example, from Minasolve (product name: Minacare Elage).
[0058]
[0059]
[0060]
[0061] Ellagitannin can be chosen from the group consisting of castalagin, castalin, casuarictin, grandinine, roburine A, tellimagrandine II, terflavin B, vescalagin, punicalagin, punicalin, and mixtures thereof. Non-flavonoids can be selected from the group consisting of lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, and other phenylpropanoids, and their derivatives, such as resorcinol derivatives. In particular, non-flavonoids can be selected from stilbenoids and their derivatives, and resorcinol derivatives. Stilbenoids and their derivatives can be selected from the group consisting of piceatannol, pinosylvin, resveratrol, and their derivatives. Among these stilbenoids, the present invention may preferably use resveratrol as (a) a polyphenol because resveratrol has bleaching effects. Resveratrol is represented by the following chemical formula. Resveratrol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp.
[0062] The resorcinol derivative can preferably be a 4-substituted derivative, such as 4-alkylresorcinols, more preferably phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol, and 4-(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl)benzene-1,3-diol, and particularly phenylethyl resorcinol due to its whitening effect. Phenylethyl resorcinol is also known as 4-(l-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol and has the following chemical formula. Phenylethyl resorcinol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (product name: Symwhite 377®).
[0063] OH Other examples of resorcinol derivatives include: 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4,5-Dimethylresorcinol, 2,4-Dimethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-Dihydroxybenzylamine, 5-Methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-Dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 2-Methoxyresorcinol, 4-Methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-Dihydroxytoluene monohydrate, 4-Chlororesorcinol, 2-Chlororesorcinol, 2',4'-Dihydroxyacetophenone, 3',5'-Dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-Propylresorcinol, 2,4-Dihydroxy-1,3,5-Trimethylbenzene, 3,5-Dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-Dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-Dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-Dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-Dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-Dihydroxybenzoic acid, alcohol 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl, 3,5-dihydroxyanisole hydrate, 4-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 2-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 5-aminobenzene-1,3-diol hydrochloride, 2',4'-dihydroxypropiophenone, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylacetophenone, (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, (3,5-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4'-methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2,4-diethyl-1,3-benzenediol, acid 3,5-Dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,4-Dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoic acid, 3,5-Dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5-methoxybenzene-1,3-diol, 4-Amino-3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-Dihydroxyacetophenone monohydrate, hydrochloride of 3,5-Dihydroxybenzylamine, 4,6-Dichlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylpropiophenone, L-(3-ethyl-2,6-dihydroxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, 2',6'-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyacetophenone, L-(2,6-dihydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, acid 3(2,4-dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid, and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoic acid.
[0064] Salts of (a) polyphenol include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or a base.
[0065] Salts of (a) polyphenol include the following:
[0066] a) salts obtained by adding to the compound a mineral acid, chosen more particularly from hydrochloric, boric, hydrobromic, hydroiodic, sulfuric, nitric, carbonic, phosphoric and tetrafluoroboric acids; or
[0067] b) salts obtained by adding to the compound an organic acid, more particularly chosen from acetic, propionic, succinic, fumaric, lactic, glycolic, citric, gluconic, salicylic, tartaric, terephthalic, methylsulfonic, ethylsulfonic, benzenesulfonic, toluenesulfonic and triflic acids.
[0068] Also included are salts obtained by adding to (a) polyphenol a mineral base, such as aqueous sodium and potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, sodium, potassium or calcium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates, for example; or an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
[0069] The salts of (a) polyphenol can advantageously be chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium salts; and ammonium salts.
[0070] It is preferable that the (a) polyphenol be chosen from ellagic acid, ella-gitannins such as punicalagins and punicalin, and mixtures thereof.
[0071] Punicalagins refer to a mixture of two diastereomers, punicalagins A and B. They belong to the family of polyphenols, and in particular are complex ellagitannins formed of glucose linked to ellagic acid and gallagic acid with a molar mass of approximately 1084 gmol-1 formed by the isomers of 2,3-(S)-hexahydroxydiphenoyl-4,6-(S,S)-gallagyl-D-glucose with the following chemical formula.
[0072] The term “punicalins” refers to a mixture of two diastereomers, pu-nicalins A and B. They belong to the family of polyphenols, and are in particular ellagitannins named 4,6-(S,S)-gallagyl-D-glucose with the following chemical formula.
[0073] It may be more preferable for the (a) polyphenol to be chosen from ellagic acid, punicalagins, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] It is preferable that the (a) polyphenol be derived from plants, and more preferably from Punica granatum.
[0075] Punica granatum is a deciduous fruit-bearing shrub or small tree in the Lythraceae family, reaching a height of 5 to 10 m (16 to 30 ft). On multiple thorny branches, the deciduous leaves are opposite or in whorls of five or six, short-stemmed, oblong-lanceolate, leathery, and 1 to 10 cm (0.4 to 4 in) long. The red, white, or variegated flowers are found at the branch tips, solitary or in clusters of up to five flowers. Almost round, but crowned at the base by the prominent calyx, the pomegranate fruit has a hard, leathery skin or rind and is generally yellow covered with light or dark pink or bright red. The interior is separated by membranous walls and a white spongy tissue into compartments lined with transparent sacs filled with acidic, tasty, fleshy, and juicy pulp (the aril). In each sac, there is a white or red seed, angular, soft or hard.The arils represent approximately 52% of the weight of the entire fruit.
[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, the fruit and in particular the pericarp of Punica granatum is preferred.
[0077] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fruit of Punica granatum is harvested in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir around the district of Ramban (village of Kanga) during the period from September to December, in particular at a latitude and longitude of about 32° N, 74° E.
[0078] Extract from Punica granatum
[0079] According to one embodiment of the present invention, an extract of Punica granatum (Punica granatum extract) can be used as (a) polyphenol.
[0080] Preferably, the above extract of Punica granatum may comprise:
[0081] of 10% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of punicalagins, of preference of 10.5% to 15%, more preferably of 10.8% to 14.8%, and even more preferably of 11.7% to 14.6%; and
[0082] 10% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of ellagic acid, preferably from 10.5% to 14.5%, more preferably from 10.8% to 14.8%, and even more preferably from 11.2% to 14.5%.
[0083] The extract of Punica granatum may further comprise from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of punicalins, preferably from 2% to 4.5%, and even more preferably from 3% to 4%.
[0084] Advantageously, the weight ratio [ellagic acid / punicalagins] can vary from 0.6 to 1.6, more preferably from 0.7 to 1.3, and even more preferably from 0.7 to 1.
[0085] In a first preferred embodiment, the extract of Punica granatum may comprise:
[0086] from 11.7% to 14.6% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of punicalagins, and
[0087] from 11.2% to 14.5% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of ellagic acid,
[0088] wherein the weight ratio [ellagic acid / punicalagins] varies from 0.6 to 1.6, more preferably from 0.7 to 1.3, and even more preferably from 0.7 to 1.
[0089] In a second preferred embodiment, the extract of Punica granatum may comprise:
[0090] from 11.7% to 14.6% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of punicalagins, and
[0091] from 11.2% to 14.5% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of ellagic acid, and iii. of 3% to 4% by weight of the total weight of the dry extract of punicalins,
[0092] in which the weight ratio [ellagic acid / punicalagins] varies from 0.6 to 1.6, of more preferred way from 0.7 to 1.3, and even more preferred way from 0.7 to 1.
[0093] The extract of Punica granatum may be in the form of an ethanolic extract or a dry extract.
[0094] The term "dry extract" refers to an extract that contains no more than 7% by weight of solvents relative to the total weight of the dry extract, preferably no more than 5%, and even more preferably no more than 3% by weight of solvents relative to the total weight of the dry extract. In a preferred embodiment, the dry extract contains no more than 1% by weight of solvents relative to the total weight of the dry extract. In another preferred embodiment, the dry extract contains no solvents (i.e., 0%).
[0095] The term “solvent” refers to aqueous solvents, organic solvents and mixtures thereof.
[0096] Water may be cited as an example of an aqueous solvent. An example of an organic solvent may be an alcoholic solvent, in particular a C2-C5 monoalcohol such as those selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol and pentanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Process for preparing extract of Punica granatum:
[0098] The extract of Punica granatum can be prepared by the following steps:
[0099] (i) the supply of a Punica granatum pericarp;
[0100] (ii) the extraction of said pericarp, at least of punicalagins and ellagic acid, with ethanol of at least 99.5% at a temperature ranging from 37°C to 45°C for 2 to 5 hours;
[0101] (iii) filtration and repeating step (ii) at least two more times; and
[0102] (iv) optional drying of the filtrate obtained at the end of step (iii) at a temperature ranging from 35°C to 40°C under vacuum.
[0103] Advantageously, the ethanol of step (ii) has a moisture content of less than 0.5%, more preferably less than 0.2%.
[0104] Preferably, the pericarp of Punica granatum supplied in step (i) is a pericarp dried in the form of a powder comprising in particular 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of dried punicalagin pericarp powder and 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of dried ellagic acid pericarp powder, more preferably 2% to 3% by weight of the total weight of dried punicalagin pericarp powder and 1% to 4% by weight of the total weight of dried ellagic acid pericarp powder.
[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio [pericarp / absolute ethanol] is 1:5.
[0106] Advantageously, the temperature of the extraction step (ii) varies from 40°C to 43°C, and more preferably is 42°C.
[0107] The filtration step (iii) is carried out according to a conventional filtration process well known to those skilled in the art, for example by a Buchner funnel.
[0108] Preferably, the temperature of the drying step (iv) varies from 37°C to 39°C, and more preferably is 38°C.
[0109] In a particular embodiment, the process for preparing the extract of Punica granatum may include the following steps:
[0110] (v) supply of a pericarp of Punica granatum;
[0111] (vi) extraction of said pericarp, at least of punicalagins and ellagic acid, with ethanol of at least 99.5% at a temperature ranging from 37°C to 45°C for 2 to 5 hours;
[0112] (vii) filtration and repetition of step (ii) at least two more times; and
[0113] (viii) optional drying of the filtrate obtained at the end of step (iii) at a temperature ranging from 35°C to 40°C under vacuum.
[0114] The quantity of (a) polyphenol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] The quantity of the (a) polyphenol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] The quantity of (a) polyphenol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] (First cationic polymer)
[0118] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one first cationic polymer. Only one type of first cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of first cationic polymers may be used in combination.
[0119] The cationic polymer may have a positive charge density. The charge density of (b) the first cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 meq / g to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 meq / g to 10 meq / g.
[0120] The molecular weight of (b) first cationic polymer is from 5,000 to 450,000, preferably from 10,000 to 350,000, and more preferably from 50,000 to 250,000.
[0121] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means number-average molecular weight.
[0122] The (b) first cationic polymer is selected from chitosans. Chitosans include chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan glycosides.
[0123] Chitosan is well known. Chitosan can be a linear polysaccharide composed of randomly distributed [3-(1->4) linkage D-glucosamine (deacetylated motif) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated motif).
[0124] The degree of acetylation of chitosan may be greater than 3% and less than 10%, preferably from 3% to 8%, and more preferably from 3% to 5%.
[0125] Chitosan can be prepared, for example, by treating the chitinous shells of shrimp and other crustaceans with an alkaline substance, such as sodium hydroxide. However, it is preferable that the chitosan be derived from a fungus such as Aspergillus niger, since chitosan derived from the fungus could be free of any allergens. Thus, it is preferable that (b) the first cationic polymer be derived from a fungus.
[0126] The quantity of the (b) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] The quantity of the (b) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] The quantity of the (b) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] (Organic compound)
[0130] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one (specific) organic compound. Two or more specific organic compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a specific organic compound or a combination of specific organic compounds may be used.
[0131] The (c) organic compound is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, gluconolactone, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] The (c) organic compound may be in the form of a salt. The term "salt" here means a salt formed by adding one or more suitable bases to the (c) organic compound, which may be obtained from a reaction with the organic compound (c) of the base(s) according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0133] The quantity of the (c) organic compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] The quantity of the (c) organic compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] The quantity of the (c) organic compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] (Water)
[0137] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0138] The quantity (d) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] The quantity (d) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] The quantity (d) of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] (Second cationic polymer)
[0142] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one second cationic polymer. Only one type of second cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of second cationic polymers may be used in combination.
[0143] The cationic polymer may have a positive charge density. The charge density of (e) the second cationic polymer may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 meq / g to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 meq / g to 10 meq / g.
[0144] The molecular weight of the (e) second cationic polymer can be from 1,000 to 100,000, preferably from 1,500 to 50,000, and more preferably from 2,000 to 10,000.
[0145] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means number-average molecular weight.
[0146] The (e) second cationic polymer is chosen from polylysines. Polylysines include polylysine, and polylysine salts.
[0147] Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products.
[0148] Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine.
[0149] The quantity of the (e) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] The quantity of the (e) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] The quantity of the (e) second cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] (Polyol)
[0153] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of Polyols can be used in combination.
[0154] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0155] The polyol may be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
[0156] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.
[0157] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.
[0158] It is preferable to use dipropylene glycol as (f) polyol.
[0159] The quantity of the (f) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0160] The quantity of the (f) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0161] The quantity of the (f) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] (pH)
[0163] The pH of the composition according to the present invention is from 3.0 to 5.0, preferably from 3.1 to 4.9, more preferably from 3.2 to 4.8, more preferably from 3.3 to 4.7, and more preferably from 3.4 to 4.6, and even more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
[0164] At a pH of 3.0 to 5.0, (a) polyphenol can be well solubilized.
[0165] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than (c) organic compound.
[0166] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0167] Alkaline agent:
[0168] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.
[0169] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates, and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0170] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferable as an inorganic alkali metal.
[0171] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; basic amino acid oligomers and their derivatives; basic amino acid polymers and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives.
[0172] Examples of organic alkali-aggregates include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, omithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
[0173] wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted with a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rh R2, R3, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be represented by way of example by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine are preferable.
[0174] The alkali agent(s) may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0175] Acid:
[0176] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids can be used in combination. Thus, only one type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0177] As an acid, one can cite all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic acids, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.
[0178] A monovalent or polyvalent acid may be used.
[0179] The acid(s) may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0180] Buffer agent:
[0181] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one buffering agent. Two or more buffering agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of buffering agent or a combination of different types of buffering agents may be used.
[0182] Examples of buffering agents include an acetate buffer (e.g., acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (e.g., sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (e.g., citric acid + sodium citrate), a borate buffer (e.g., boric acid + sodium borate), a tartrate buffer (e.g., tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), a Tris buffer (e.g., tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), and a Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l-piperazineethanesulfonic acid).
[0183] (Optional ingredients)
[0184] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically used in cosmetics, specifically surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than (b) the first cationic polymer and (e) the second cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than (f) polyol; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than those including (a) polyphenol; waxes; and the like, within a range not detrimental to the effects of the present invention.
[0185] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] The amount of the surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any surfactant / emulsifier.
[0187] [Preparation]
[0188] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0189] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0190] It is preferable that ingredient (a) be mixed with ingredient (f) to obtain a mixture of ingredients (a) and (f), and the mixture of ingredients (a) and (f) is added to a mixture of ingredients (b) to (d), and optionally to ingredient (e), which has already been prepared separately, to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0191] [Cosmetic composition]
[0192] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to a keratinous substance. Hereinafter, keratinous substance refers to a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on the keratinous substance, particularly the skin.
[0193] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a skin care composition.
[0194] The composition according to the present invention may have a transparent appearance.
[0195] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, preferably a transparent cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin-transparent cosmetic composition.
[0196] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q turbidimeter (marketed by HACH) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The whiteness can be determined with distilled water.
[0197] The composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, in a more preferred less than 100 NTU, and even more preferably less than 50 NTU.
[0198] [Cosmetic processes and use]
[0199] The present invention also relates to:
[0200] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention.
[0201] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0202] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising:
[0203] (b) at least a first cationic polymer having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 450,000, preferably from 10,000 to 350,000, and even more preferably from 50,000 to 250,000, chosen from among the chitosans;
[0204] (c) at least one organic compound selected from the group consisting of as acid corbic acid, gluconolactone, gluconic acid, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof; and
[0205] (d) water
[0206] in which
[0207] the pH of the composition is from 3.0 to 5.0,
[0208] in order to solubilize (a) at least one polyphenol in the composition.
[0209] The above explanations concerning (a) polyphenol, (b) first cationic polymer, (c) organic compound, and (d) for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those of the use according to the present invention.
[0210] The above use according to the present invention can render the composition transparent, preferably for 1 month or more.
[0211] EXAMPLES
[0212] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7
[0213] [Preparation]
[0214] The compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The quantities of each ingredient used in the above preparations are shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2 are all based on '% by weight' of raw materials.
[0215] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Water q.s. 10 ...
[0216] [Tables2] Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp.2 Ex. comp.3 Ex. comp.4 Ex. comp. 5 Ex. comp. 6 Ex. comp.7 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH: 100,000) (Degree of acetylation: 4) 0.2 0.2 - - 0.2 0.2 0.2 Chitosan (WH: 2,000) (Degree of acetylation: 3) - - 0.2 - - - - Chitosan (WH: 500,000) (Degree of acetylation: 10) - - - 0.2 - - - Ascorbic acid 0.1 2 0.4 0.4 - - - Lactic acid - - - - 0.2 - - Citric acid (10% aqueous solution by weight) - - - - - 1.5 - HCl(1 (mol / L) - - - - - - 1 Dipropylene Glycol 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 9.5 Punica Granatum Extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 pH 5.5 2.8 4 4 4 4 4 Transparency (5 days after) Poor Poor Very poor Poor Very poor Very poor Very poor Transparency (1 month after) Very poor Very poor Very poor Poor Very poor Very poor Very poor Very poor 3-Carotene Bleaching Test: Poor Poor Poor Poor Poor Very Poor Very Poor Very Poor
[0217] [Evaluations]
[0218] (Transparency)
[0219] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and of the compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 7 was poured into a transparent glass bottle with a volume of 20 ml, and shaken well.
[0220] Five days later and one month later, the transparency of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and of the compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 7 was evaluated by visual observation according to the following criteria.
[0221] Very good: The composition was transparent, and no particles were found.
[0222] Good: the composition was transparent, and a very small amount of small particles was found.
[0223] Mediocre: part of the composition was not transparent.
[0224] Very poor: the composition was opaque.
[0225] The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0226] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 were transparent for a long period of time. The composition according to Example 1, including ascorbic acid, showed the best transparency. The composition according to Example 4, including ascorbic acid and polylysine, showed the best transparency.
[0227] Transparency indicates that the ingredients, including polyphenol, in the compositions are solubilized.
[0228] The compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 showed poor transparency because they did not meet the pH requirements of 3.0 to 5.0.
[0229] The compositions according to comparative examples 3 and 4 also showed poor transparency because the molecular weight of the chitosan used in them was too low or too high.
[0230] The compositions according to comparative examples 5 to 7 also showed poor transparency because they did not use ascorbic acid, gluco-nolactone or glycolic acid.
[0231] (Bleaching test with [3-Carotene])
[0232] 0.6 g of a solution of [3-carotene (solvent: caprylic / capric triglyceride) with a concentration of 0.05% by weight, and 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and of the compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 7 were mixed to obtain a mixture.
[0233] 0.4 g of the above mixture was applied to a filter (glass microfiber filter).
[0234] The above filter was exposed to UV rays of a wavelength of 365 nm for 30 minutes to oxidize [3-carotene.
[0235] If [3-carotene is oxidized, the original yellow color derived from [3-carotene] fades.
[0236] The remaining yellow color of the filter was visually assessed according to the criteria following.
[0237] Very good: almost no change
[0238] Good: little change, but acceptable
[0239] Mediocre: visible but unacceptable change
[0240] Very poor: significant change.
[0241] The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0242] The more intense the remaining yellow color, the more [3-carotene] remained. This means that the more intense the remaining yellow color, the greater the anti-oxidation effect of the polyphenol in the composition.
[0243] The compositions according to examples 1 to 4 exhibited good anti-oxidation effects. The composition according to example 1 including ascorbic acid and the composition according to example 4 including ascorbic acid and polylysine exhibited the best antioxidant effect.
[0244] The compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 showed a poor antioxidant effect because they did not meet the pH requirements of 3.0 to 5.0.
[0245] The compositions according to comparative examples 3 and 4 also showed a poor antioxidant effect because the molecular weight of the chitosan used was too low or too high.
[0246] The compositions according to comparative examples 5 to 7 also showed a poor antioxidant effect because they did not use ascorbic acid, gluco-nolactone or glycolic acid.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition, comprising: (a) at least one polyphenol; (b) at least one first cationic polymer having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 450,000, preferably 10,000 to 350,000, and more preferably 50,000 to 250,000, selected from chitosans; (c) at least one organic compound selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, gluconolactone, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof; and (d) water wherein the pH of the composition is 3.0 to 5.0, and wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one second cationic polymer selected from polylysines.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the (a) polyphenol is selected from ellagic acid, punicalagins, and mixtures thereof.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) polyphenol is derived from plants, preferably from Punica granatum.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) polyphenol(s) in the composition is from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (b) first cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one polyol.
7. A composition according to claim 6, wherein the (f) polyol is dipropylene glycol.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a transparent cosmetic composition, and more preferably a transparent cosmetic composition for the skin.
9. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.