Composition for conditioning keratin fibers
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022001264
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-01-14
- Filing Date
- 2022-02-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-02-14
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition for conditioning keratinous fibers Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, for example hair, context of the art
[0002] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, bad weather, and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.
[0003] There are many products comprising lipophilic active ingredients available for hair conditioning. For example, there are many hair oil products comprising lipophilic active ingredients. In order to meet the needs of different consumers, cosmetic companies are keen to diversify hair oil product categories. When developing hair oils, it is difficult to include hydrophilic active ingredients for hair conditioning, let alone a high amount of hydrophilic active ingredients. Thus, this relatively small amount cannot satisfy the desirable benefits for keratin fibers.
[0004] Furthermore, it is highly desirable to provide the benefit of hair conditioning using products with a pleasing appearance, for example, products with a transparent appearance, and it is also desirable that the hair conditioning products be stable over time.
[0005] Therefore, there is still a need to develop compositions for conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, for example hair, which comprise a relatively higher amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for hair conditioning and sensory performance enhancement, and which have a transparent appearance and are stable over time, thus providing long-term biological benefits to the keratinous fibers. Summary of the invention
[0006] In order to increase the hydrophilic active ingredients in keratinous fiber conditioning products and simultaneously maintain the transparent appearance, we incorporate deep eutectic solvents (DES) into the conditioning products, e.g., hair oils, to deliver said active ingredients. hydrophilic, in which the components constituting the deep eutectic solvents, per se, are active substances, and the deep eutectic solvent may additionally carry other active substances, for example hydrophilic plant extracts, hydrophilic dyes, hydrophilic preservatives, etc.
[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising:
[0008] a) a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil; and
[0009] b) one or more polar phases, comprising deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers. As mentioned above, the expression "deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers" means that the deep eutectic solvents, per se, are active substances, and may additionally carry other active substances, for example hydrophilic plant extracts, hydrophilic dyes, hydrophilic preservatives, etc.
[0010] Preferably, the polar phases comprise less than about 10% by weight of water, and in particular less than about 6% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the deep eutectic solvents. More preferably, the polar phases comprise substantially no water, and this means that the polar phases comprise a minute amount of water, i.e., water is included as an impurity, if present.
[0011] The transparent composition comprising the effective amount of the hydrophilic active ingredient provides consumers with active ingredients to nourish keratinous fibers and enhanced sensory experiences.
[0012] For the deep eutectic solvent according to the present invention, it includes a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor, and both are physiologically beneficial actives, and are, in themselves, the above hydrophilic active ingredients.
[0013] According to the present invention, the transparent composition may or may not comprise a surfactant. In one aspect, the transparent composition does not comprise a surfactant. In another aspect, the transparent composition comprises a combination of surfactants comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, and optionally at least one ionic surfactant, the ionic surfactant preferably being selected from anionic surfactants.
[0014] By means of the combination of surfactants, reverse micelles are formed in the composition, so that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time. In the reverse micelle system, the DES, instead water, serves as a core inside. In addition, the combination of surfactants allows for a relatively higher amount of hydrophilic active ingredients. Furthermore, since DESs are, per se, hydrophilic active ingredients, the composition of the present invention often contains a greater amount of actives than compositions comprising the reverse micelle system containing water cores.
[0015] With respect to the surfactant combination, in order to comply with the safety standard and not to harm the health of users, the surfactant combination is present in a relatively small amount and comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant and optionally at least one ionic surfactant. In one embodiment, the amount of the at least one ionic surfactant is not more than about 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Surprisingly, the inventor discovers that reverse micelles can be formed and maintained in the composition of the present invention even at a very small amount of ionic surfactant.
[0016] Theoretically, all oils that are suitable for the treatment of keratinous fibers are applicable to the composition of the present invention. In one embodiment, the at least one oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, triglycerides, ether oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, comprising, consisting substantially of, or consisting of the above transparent composition, in the form of biphasic oils or homogeneous oils. For homogeneous oils, the above reverse micelles comprising the specific combination of surfactants are formed.
[0018] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from the detailed description and examples which follow. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0019] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] represents the multimodal size distribution of sample 1, corresponding to inventive example 2, from a Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment.
[0020] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] represents the multimodal size distribution of sample 2, corresponding to inventive example 3, from Brookhaven's dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment.
[0021] Each measurement from Brookhaven's DLS analyzer determines the mean diameter (effective diameter) and distribution width (polydispersity) of the samples, the DLS measuring the correlation function of intensity fluctuations, which can be mathematically converted into an intensity size distribution, and the diagram describes the multimodal intensity size distribution of the sample when a numerical algorithm is used. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0022] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...".
[0023] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be construed to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features.
[0024] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0025] The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in the embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically indicated.
[0026] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0027] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values expressing the amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as needed.
[0028] As used herein, the term "keratinous fibers" includes animal keratinous fibers and human keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0029] As used herein, the term "at least one" as used in this description is equivalent to the term "one or more".
[0030] As used herein, the term "eutectic solvent "Deep" means that it is present in a liquid state at room temperature. Compared with ionic liquids, the preparation of deep eutectic solvents is simpler, faster, cheaper, and less toxic, and is called "green solvent." Deep eutectic solvent is mainly composed of a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor to form a binary and ternary system of deep eutectic solvents. The most important physical property of deep eutectic solvent is the decrease in the melting point of the solvent. As a new type of green solvent that can replace ionic liquids, it has a wide range of use and can be used for the separation of natural organic components, or used as a reaction solvent, etc.
[0031] As used herein, the term "reverse micelles" or "reverse micelles" has the following definition: surfactants are dissolved in non-polar organic solvents; when their concentration exceeds the critical micelle concentration (CMC), micelles are formed in the organic solvent, which are called reverse micelles, or reverse micelles. In reverse micelles, the non-polar groups of the surfactant are on the outside in contact with the non-polar organic solvents, while the polar groups are arranged inside to form a polar core. This polar core has the ability to dissolve polar substances. In the case where the polar core contains water, it forms a "water pool" or a "water core". The reverse micelle is a nanoscale aggregate, which is a transparent and thermodynamically stable W / O system.
[0032] As used herein, the term "lipophilic" means that a substance or material can be dissolved or dispersed in an oil phase at 25°C to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase.
[0033] As used herein, the term "effective amount" means an amount of the hydrophilic active ingredient comprised in the polar phases of the composition, said amount being sufficient to effectively condition the keratinous fibers. According to the present invention, the effective amount may be about 0.01% by weight or even more, for example about 0.05% by weight, about 0.1% by weight, about 0.15% by weight, about 0.2% by weight, about 0.25% by weight, about 0.30% by weight, about 0.35% by weight, about 0.40% by weight, about 0.45% by weight, about 0.5% by weight, about 0.6% by weight, about 0.7% by weight, about 0.8% by weight, about 1.0% by weight, about 1.5% by weight, about 2.0% by weight, about 2.5% by weight, about 3.0% by weight, about 4.0% by weight, about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
[0034] According to the first aspect of the present invention, a transparent composition is provided, and the composition comprises a continuous oil phase comprising at less oil.
[0035] Herein, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0036] As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. This (these) oil(s) can be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
[0037] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.
[0038] The oil may be an oil of vegetable or animal origin or a synthetic oil.
[0039] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, Camellia, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0041] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0042] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.
[0043] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0044] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols may also be used, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols.
[0045] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii- citrate socetyl; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0046] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0047] Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0048] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C6-C30 and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0049] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0051] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0052] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0053] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0055] Ether hydrocarbon base oil, also known as ether oil, may be volatile or non-volatile and is preferably non-volatile.
[0056] An ether hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group, linear, branched or cyclic. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical.
[0057] Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.
[0058] Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0059] Cyclic alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a cy-clohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0060] Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, no-nylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0061] Preferably, it is selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Dicapryl ether is particularly suitable for use.
[0062] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, organopoly- linear siloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0063] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0064] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0065] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0066] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0067] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: D" - D —— IT - D' —। CH, U”””------------------------------- ÇH3. with D” î - ® and with Cf: Si O ■■ CHS
[0068] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0069] (ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25°C. For example, One example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones in this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27 to 32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0070] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0071] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:
[0072] - Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0073] - oils from the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
[0074] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200, the viscosity is 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0075] - General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) of General Electric.
[0076] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0077] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
[0078] - Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
[0079] - oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
[0080] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0081] - Bayer PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;
[0082] - certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0083] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0084] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:
[0085] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, e.g., isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
[0086] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such such as liquid paraffins, liquid petrolatum, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0087] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0088] As examples, the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, a hydrocarbon ether-based oil having a C8-C12 alkyl group, such as dicaprylic ether, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, such as dimethicones, dimethiconols, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] Preferably, the oil is selected from isododecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dimethicones, dimethiconols and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from about 10% by weight to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 25% by weight to about 97% by weight, or from about 50% by weight to about 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polar phase
[0091] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more polar phases of deep eutectic solvents to carry an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers.
[0092] Preferably, the polar phases comprise less than about 10% by weight of water, and in particular less than about 6% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the deep eutectic solvents. More preferably, the polar phases comprise substantially no water, or even water is included as an impurity, if present. The expression "comprises substantially no water" means that the polar phases comprise 5% by weight or less of water, relative to the weight of the deep eutectic solvents.
[0093] Furthermore, the polar phases of the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 lower polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
[0094] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, e.g., butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
[0095] The water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, if present, may represent from about 0.1% by weight to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 1% by weight to about 30% by weight, or from about 5% by weight to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Deep eutectic solvent (DES)
[0096] The deep eutectic solvent according to the present invention includes a hydrogen bond donor (HBD) and a hydrogen bond acceptor (HBA), wherein the hydrogen bond donor and the hydrogen bond acceptor are both physiologically beneficial actives, and are, per se, the hydrophilic active ingredients comprised in the composition of the present invention.
[0097] In particular, the expression "hydrophilic" is interchangeable with the term "water-soluble", and the term "hydrophilic" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25°C, at a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
[0098] More particularly, the hydrogen bond donors included in the composition of the present invention are acids, alcohols, amines or carbohydrates, and are preferably organic acids, and are in particular chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, adipic acid, galacturonic acid, and gluconic acid. Preferably, the hydrogen bond donors are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid and citric acid. In particular, the hydrogen bond donors are chosen from lactic acid.
[0099] The hydrogen bond acceptors are selected from quaternary salts, including quaternary ammonium salts and quaternary phosphonium salts, for example betaine and choline chloride; polyols derived from sugars, for example trehalose, xylitol, glucose and panthenol; and certain amino acids, for example alanine, glycine, histidine and proline. Preferably, the hydrogen bond acceptors are selected from betaine, trehalose, glucose and panthenol. In particular, the hydrogen bond acceptors are selected from betaine.
[0100] Advantageously, the weight ratio of hydrogen bond acceptors to hydrogen bond donors ranges from about 1:20 to about 1:0.1, preferably from about 1:13 to about 1:0.5, or from about 1:10 to about 1:0.8, for example about 1:7, about 1:5, about 1:3, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1.2, about 1:1, and about 1:0.9.
[0101] Advantageously, the deep eutectic solvent including a bond acceptor hydrogen and a hydrogen bond donor is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt% to about 50 wt%, preferably from about 0.05 wt% to about 35 wt%, or from about 0.1 wt% to about 25 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. Other hydrophilic active ingredients
[0102] According to the present invention, the polar phases may carry a quantity of other hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers, than the above deep eutectic solvents, i.e. any natural or synthetic compound, generally organic, which is soluble in the deep eutectic solvent. For example, the other hydrophilic active ingredients may include plant extracts, dyes and preservatives.
[0103] As hydrophilic plant extracts, mention may be made of citrus jundos fruit extract, aloe vera extract, lavender extract, citrus aurantium extract, ginkgo biloba extract, lemon extract, zingiber officinale extract and the like.
[0104] As hydrophilic dyes, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, including acidic or basic water-soluble dyes, for example FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), ACID Red 52 (CI: 45100), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090), Acid Black 1, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Red 76, and combinations thereof.
[0105] As hydrophilic preservatives, mention may be made in particular of pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, capryl glycol, sodium benzonate, and the like. Combination of surfactants
[0106] The composition of the present invention optionally comprises a combination of surfactants, consisting of at least one non-ionic surfactant and optionally at least one ionic surfactant, wherein the ionic surfactant is preferably selected from anionic surfactants.
[0107] To date, there are virtually no oily systems or phases using reverse micelle technology to obtain dispersed polar phases comprising deep eutectic solvents, to carry an effective amount of a hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning keratinous fibers.
[0108] By means of the combination of surfactants, reverse micelles are formed in the composition, so that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamic. unusually stable over time. In addition, the combination of surfactants allows for a relatively higher amount of hydrophilic active ingredients. Furthermore, since DESs are, per se, hydrophilic active ingredients, the composition of the present invention often contains a greater amount of actives than compositions comprising a reverse micelle system containing water cores.
[0109] Advantageously, the combination of surfactants is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactant
[0110] The non-ionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably lipophilic.
[0111] As non-ionic surfactants, mention may be made of the non-ionic surfactant having at least at least one C6-C22 alkyl chain, for example one, two or three C6-C22 alkyl chains, and preferably the non-ionic surfactant further has an HLB value ranging from about 0 to about 10.
[0112] Examples that may be mentioned are polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably of 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of one or more C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C6-C22, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; and a mixture thereof. ;
[0113] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include addition products of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and a mixture thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8, PEG-12 distearate, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, ethylene glycol dioleate, PEG-3 dioleate, PEG-4 dioleate, etc.
[0114] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl di- and / or tristearate) such as glyceryl 1,3-distearate, glycerol dioleate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl 1,3-dipalmitate and a mixture thereof.
[0115] As polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, the polyglycerol moiety may be derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, or 2 to 6 glycerols, and / or the fatty acid may be a C6-C22 fatty acid, and preferably a C12-C22 fatty acid*.
[0116] The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-esters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, palmitic acid and myristic acid.
[0117] The polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids may be chosen from polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-caprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-laurate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-myristate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-palmitate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-stearate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-isostearate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units and / or derived from a C12-C22 fatty acid being preferable.
[0118] The sorbitol esters of C6-C22 fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof may be chosen from sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan trioleate and fatty acid esters such as span 65, span 85 and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Croda.
[0119] As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may in particular be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more particularly diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (methylglucose dioleate), mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid / hydroxy stearic acid mixture. (methylglucose dioleate / hydroxystearate), methylglucoside ester of isostearic acid (methylglucose isostearate), methylglucoside ester of lauric acid (methylglucose laurate), mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (methylglucose sesquiisostearate), mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (methylglucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed as Glucate SS by Lubrizol, and a mixture thereof.
[0120] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name GLUCAM E-20 DISTEARATE by Lubrizol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name GLUCAMATE SSE-20 by Lubrizol, and a mixture thereof, may for example be mentioned.
[0121] As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose trioleate, sucrose tristearate.
[0122] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; in particular polyglyceryl mono-, di- or tri-oleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di- or tri-isostearate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ionic surfactant
[0125] In the context, the term "ionic surfactant" means a surfactant carrying at least one anion or cation in the molecule, and non-limiting examples that may be mentioned are anionic surfactant, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant and zwitterionic surfactant.
[0126] The ionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably chosen from an anionic surfactant. Furthermore, the ionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably lipophilic.
[0127] The anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinates, including mono- alkyl sulfosuccinates and di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.
[0128] Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinates present in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Different or identical alkyl radicals may be present in a di-alkyl sulfosuccinate molecule, the identical ones being preferred. The alkyl radicals may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0129] The sulfosuccinates may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the sulfosuccinates are chosen from alkali metal salts and even more particularly the sodium salt, including disodium salts for mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and sodium salts for di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.
[0131] Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is chosen from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.
[0132] Des exemples non limitatifs de di-alkyl sulfosuccinates sont diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dinonyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, diisononyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, diheptyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dicapryl sulfosuccinate de sodium, didécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, diundécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dilauryl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dicocoyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, ditridécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dinonyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, diisononyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, diheptyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dicapryl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, didécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, diundécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dilauryl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dicocoyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium,ditridécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dinonyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, diisononyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, diheptyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dicapryl sulfosuccinate de potassium, didécyl sul- , fosuccinate de potassium, diundécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dilauryl sulfo-succinate de potassium, dicocoyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, ditridécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium étant très particulièrement préféré.
[0133] Non-limiting examples of mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates are diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetyl sulfosuccinate, disodium coco-sulfosuccinate, disodium isodecyl sulfosuccinate, disodium isostearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinate, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium tridecyl sulfosuccinate, with disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate being very particularly preferred.
[0134] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which each alkyl has 6 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the two alkyls are identical. In one example, the anionic surfactant is sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate.
[0135] In order to meet the safety standard and not harm the health of users, a relatively small amount of ionic surfactant is required. Advantageously, the ionic surfactant is present in an amount of less than about 5.0% by weight, preferably less than about 3.0% by weight, or less than about 1.5% by weight, and even in a range of from about 0.1% by weight to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Reverse micelle system
[0136] By means of the system comprising the above continuous oil phase, the surfactant combination and the polar phases, reverse micelles can be formed in the present composition. The reverse micelles allow the composition of the present invention to have a transparent appearance and to be thermodynamically stable over time.
[0137] Compared with reverse micelles comprising water cores, reverse micelles comprising DES cores can carry more hydrophilic active ingredients, since DES are, per se, hydrophilic active ingredients. In addition, as a special solvent, DES can dissolve other hydrophilic active ingredients, e.g., plant extracts, dyes, and preservatives.
[0138] In the composition comprising said reverse micelles, the hydrophilic active ingredients are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% by weight to about 2.0% by weight, or from about 0.2% by weight to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0139] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, otherwise known in compositions for conditioning keratinous fibers, for example perfumes, which are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.3% by weight to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily product
[0140] According to the second aspect of the present invention, there is provided an oily product comprising or consisting of the above transparent composition. When the oily product consists of the above transparent composition, it means that the above transparent composition is in the form of an oily product. According to the present invention, the oily product may be in the form of a two-phase oily product or a homogeneous oily product. Biphasic oily product
[0141] In context, the term "biphasic oily product" means a product that appears to the naked eye to be two phases or layers.
[0142] The biphasic oily product according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil; and a polar phase comprising deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers. The types of oily phase, deep eutectic solvent and hydrophilic active ingredient are defined as above.
[0143] In one embodiment, the biphasic oily product according to the present invention comprises an oily phase and a polar phase.
[0144] In the two-phase oily product according to the present invention, the at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from about 10% by weight to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 25% by weight to about 80% by weight, or from about 40% by weight to about 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] In one embodiment, the biphasic oily product according to the present invention does not comprise any surfactant.
[0146] In one embodiment, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount ranging from about 8 wt% to about 50 wt%, preferably from about 12 wt% to about 35 wt%, or from about 15 wt% to about 25 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of hydrogen bond acceptors to hydrogen bond donors is defined as above.
[0147] By means of the deep eutectic solvent comprising hydrophilic active ingredients, the two-phase oily product has a transparent appearance, and is thermodynamically stable over time. In one embodiment, the two-phase oily product is in the form of hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably leave-in hair oils. Homogeneous oily product
[0148] In the context, the term "homogeneous oily product" means a product that is homogeneous and transparent to the naked eye and not stratified at room temperature.
[0149] The homogeneous oily product according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil; dispersed polar phases comprising deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers; and a surfactant combination consisting of at least one non-ionic surfactant and optionally at least one ionic surfactant which is preferably an anionic surfactant. The types of the oily phase, the deep eutectic solvent, the hydrophilic active ingredient and the surfactant combination are defined as above.
[0150] In one embodiment, the homogeneous oily product according to the present invention comprises an oily phase and a plurality of polar phases dispersed in said oily phase.
[0151] In the homogeneous oily product according to the present invention, the above reverse micelles are formed, and the at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from about 80% by weight to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 85% by weight to about 98% by weight, or from about 90% by weight to about 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] In one embodiment, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt%, preferably from about 0.05 wt% to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of hydrogen bond acceptors to hydrogen bond donors is defined as above.
[0153] By virtue of a specific reverse micelle system comprising the deep eutectic solvent, the homogeneous oily product has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time. In one embodiment, the homogeneous oily product is in the form of hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably leave-in hair oils. Preparation and use
[0154] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the oily phase, the polar phase and the surfactants, if present, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.
[0155] The method and means for mixing the above various ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used for mixing the above various ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0156] The term “clear” is interchangeable with the term “transparent” for the purposes of this disclosure.
[0157] The presence of reverse micelles can be confirmed by measuring the size of the reverse micelles by dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0158] The composition can be used on damp or dry hair.
[0159] According to the third aspect of the present invention, it relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratinous fibers comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers.
[0160] According to the fourth aspect of the present invention, it relates to the use of the composition of the present invention as hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils.
[0161] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting its scope. EXAMPLES
[0162] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0163] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur Dimethicone DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 5 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) Isododecane ISODODECANE INEOS Trisiloxane XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) Dimethicone DOWSIL PMX-1301 FLUID DOW CORNINIG (DOW CHEMICAL) Fragrance / parfum LA LA LAN 93Y GIVAUDAN Trehalose TREHALOSE100 HAYASHIBARA Glucose DEXTROSE MO NOHYDRATE F ROQUETTE Panthenol D PANTHENOL CARE BASF Betaine GENENCARE OSMS BA DANISCO Lactic acid L(+)-LACTIC ACID 90 % HEAT STABLE PERSONAL CARE GRADE JUNGBUNZLAUER Propylene glycol 1,2-PROPYLENEGLYCOL CARE BASF Polyglyceryl-2 trii-sostearate COSMOL 43 V (MB) NISSHIN OILLIO Polyglyceryl-2 oleate SUNSOFT Q-17D(G)-C TAIYO KAGAKU Diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate AEROSOL OT 100 % SURFACTANT CYTEC Exemple inventif 1
[0164] A biphasic hair oil according to the inventive formula IE. 1 was prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of the ingredients relative to the total weight of the hair oil, unless otherwise indicated), in which the water comes from the polar phase ingredients as an impurity:
[0165] [Tables2] Phase Components IE. 1 Oil phase Dimethicone (5 cSt) 3 Isododecane QS100 Trisiloxane (1 cSt) 3 Dimethicone (500,000 cSt) 3 Fragrance 0.48 Polar phase Lactic acid 9 Water 1 Betaine 10 Propylene glycol 20
[0166] Preparation procedure:
[0167] The composition was prepared from the following steps:
[0168] 1) Mix betaine and lactic acid in the quantities shown in the table 2 ;
[0169] 2) heat the mixture to about 80°C, and stir for a few minutes to obtain a transparent and stable solution;
[0170] 3) prepare the oily phase by mixing and stirring the oils thoroughly;
[0171] 4) prepare the polar phase by mixing the preformulated DES lactic acid / betaine with propylene glycol; and
[0172] 5) mix the oily phase with the polar phase.
[0173] Evaluation:
[0174] The stability of the obtained hair oil was evaluated by keeping the hair oil at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) or 45°C for 2 months and observing it with the naked eye to check whether the hair oil was transparent. The oil is considered stable if the tested hair oil is transparent at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) and 45°C for 2 months, otherwise it is considered unstable.
[0175] The appearance of the hair oil obtained was observed with the naked eye.
[0176] The result has been summarized in Table 3.
[0177] [Tables3] Properties IE. 1 Stability Stable Appearance Upper oil phase: homogeneous, transparent Lower polar phase: homogeneous, transparent
[0178] From Tables 2 and 3, it can be seen that the biphasic hair oil of IE. 1 had a transparent appearance, and was thermodynamically stable over time. Inventive Examples 2 and 3 and Comparative Example 1
[0179] The homogeneous hair oils according to the inventive formulas IE. 2 and 3 and the comparative formula CE. 1 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 4 (the contents were expressed as weight percentages of ingredients relative to the total weight of each hair oil, unless otherwise indicated), with water coming from the polar phase ingredients as an impurity:
[0180] [Tables4] Phase Components IE. 2 IE. 3 CE. 1 Oil phase Dimethicone (5 cSt) 5 5 5 Isododecane QS100 QS100 QS100 Trisiloxane (1 cSt) 5 5 5 Dimethicone (500,000 cSt) 5 5 5 Fragrance 0.8 0.8 0.8 Polar phase Lactic acid 0.11 0.18 / Water 0.01 0.02 0.01 Betaine 0.13 0.2 0.13 Surfactant combination Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 3 3 3 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate 1 1 1 Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate / 0.15 0.15
[0181] Preparation procedure:
[0182] The compositions were prepared from the following steps:
[0183] 1) Mix betaine and lactic acid in the quantities shown in the table 4 ;
[0184] 2) heat the mixture to about 80°C, and stir for a few minutes to obtain transparent and stable solutions of the polar phase;
[0185] 3) prepare the oil phase by mixing and stirring the oils thoroughly;
[0186] 4) add the surfactants into the oil phase, and stir carefully at tem room temperature to completely dissolve the surfactants in the oils; and
[0187] 5) add the preformulated polar phase into the oily phase containing the ten sioactives, and shake thoroughly at room temperature to obtain clear and homogeneous liquids. Assessment :
[0188] The stability and appearance of the obtained homogeneous hair oils were evaluated as described above.
[0189] The results have been summarized in Table 5.
[0190] [Tables5] Properties IE.2 IE. 3 CE. 1 Stability Stable Stable Undissolved betaine powders Appearance Homogeneous, transparent Homogeneous, transparent Phase separation, deposits
[0191] From Tables 4 and 5, it can be seen that each of the hair oils of IE. 2 and 3 had a transparent appearance, and was thermodynamically stable over time.
[0192] In contrast, the composition which did not include the deep eutectic solvent of the present invention led to phase separation, i.e., it could not achieve the desirable transparent appearance.
[0193] Furthermore, from Tables 4 and 5, it can be seen that no amount or only an amount of 0.15 wt% of the anionic surfactant in the reverse micelle system encapsulated as high as 0.38 wt% of hydrophilic active ingredients in the composition and provided the composition with a stable transparent appearance. This amount of hydrophilic active ingredients was higher than that of the same reverse micelle system comprising water cores. The amount of anionic surfactant, as low as 0.15 wt%, meets safety standards and does not harm the health of users.
[0194] Measurement of the size of reverse micelles by dynamic light scattering
[0195] The sizes of the formulated reverse micelles were characterized using Brookhaven's dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment. The DLS experiment measured the hydrodynamic radius of reverse micelles, and included solvation effects. Since the viscosity of the base oil was higher than the maximum value suggested by Brookhaven, pure isododecane was chosen as a representative simplex oil for the study of reverse micelle systems by DLS. The main experimental parameters defined for the DLS experiments are listed in Table 6.
[0196] [Tableauxô] Parameters Set value for DLS measurements Instrument parameters Angle 90 degrees Wavelength 659 nm Cell type BLSCP Measurement parameters Temperature 25 °C Set time 100 seconds Equilibrium time 120 seconds Dust cutoff 20 Sample parameters Liquid Unspecified (Isododecane) Viscosity 4 cP Refractive index 1.42
[0197] In the following Table 7, samples 1 and 2 corresponded to IEs 2 and 3 respectively, but the oil bases were simplified by using isododecane alone. All results of mean effective diameter and mean polydispersity were obtained from at least three measurements.
[0198] Samples 1 and 2 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 7 (contents are expressed as weight percentages of the ingredients relative to the total weight of each sample, unless otherwise indicated):
[0199] [Tables?] Phase Components Sample 1 Sample 2 Oil phase Isododecane QS100 QS100 Polar phase (DES) Lactic acid 0.11 0.18 Water 0.01 0.02 Betaine 0.13 0.2 Surfactant combination Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 3 3 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate 1 1 Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate / 0.15 Average effective diameter (nm) 28.3+5.4 2.8+0.1 Average polydispersity 0.25+0.03 0.09+0.03
[0200] The definition of the polydispersity index (PDI) is a dimensionless measure of the width of the size distribution calculated from cumulant analysis. This value should range from 0 to 1. If this value is greater than 1, the distribution is too polydisperse and the sample is not suitable for DLS measurement.
[0201] From Table 7 above, in conjunction with Figures 1 and 2, it can be seen that each of Samples 1 and 2 obtained an average polydispersity of less than 1. Thus, it was demonstrated that inverse micelles having the average effective diameters shown in Table 7 were indeed formed and were stable over time in the homogeneous hair oils of IEs 2 and 3.
[0202] Due to the stable reverse micelles formed in the homogeneous hair oils of the present invention, the homogeneous hair oils have retained the transparent appearance over time, and an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients, for example 0.25% by weight or even more, based on the total weight of the composition, can be contained in the dispersed polar phases of the transparent composition of the present invention.
Claims
Claims
1. A transparent composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: a) a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil, and b) one or more polar phases, comprising deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers, wherein the deep eutectic solvent includes a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor, said hydrogen bond acceptor being lactic acid, said composition further comprising a surfactant combination consisting of at least one non-ionic surfactant and optionally at least one anionic surfactant, wherein reverse micelles are formed in the composition, said non-ionic surfactant being selected from polyglyceryl mono-, di- or trioleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, mono-,polyglyceryl di- or triisostearate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.,
2. A transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrogen bond acceptor is selected from quaternary salts, including quaternary ammonium salts and quaternary phosphonium salts, e.g., betaine and choline chloride; polyols derived from sugars, e.g., trehalose, xylitol, glucose and panthenol; and amino acids, e.g., alanine, glycine, histidine and proline; preferably, the hydrogen bond acceptor is selected from betaine, trehalose, glucose and panthenol; in particular, the hydrogen bond acceptor is selected from betaine.
3. A transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant comprises at least one C6-C22 alkyl chain, such as one, two or three C6-C22 alkyl chains, wherein the alkyl chain in the nonionic surfactant is preferably a C12-C22 alkyl chain; preferably, the nonionic surfactant further has an HLB value ranging from 0 to 10.
4. A transparent composition according to claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and mixtures thereof.
5. A transparent composition according to claim 1, wherein the ten- The anionic sioactive agent is chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates, and is preferably chosen from di-alkyl sulfosuccinates with two identical alkyls, in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular 6 to 14 carbon atoms.
6. A transparent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the surfactant combination consists of polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, or sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.
7. A transparent composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, which is in the form of a biphasic oily product, for example, hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably leave-in hair oils, wherein the at least one oil is present in an amount of from 10 wt% to 90 wt%, preferably from 25 wt% to 80 wt%, or from 40 wt% to 70 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition; preferably, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount of from 8 wt% to 50 wt%, preferably from 12 wt% to 35 wt%, or from 15 wt% to 25 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. A transparent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is in the form of a homogeneous oily product, for example, hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably leave-in hair oils, wherein the at least one oil is present in an amount of from 80 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably from 85 wt% to 98 wt%, or from 90 wt% to 96 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition; preferably, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount of from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.05 wt% to 3 wt%, or from 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.