COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE

Abstract

COSMETIC SKINCARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a cosmetic skincare composition comprising: (i) at least one N-substituted sulfonic amino acid compound; (ii) at least one hydroxy acid; and (iii) at least one penetration activator. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic skincare method comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin for a period of time and then rinsing the skin. Figure for the abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, in the context of the art

[0002] The appearance of dandruff is bothersome both in terms of personal appearance and discomfort (itching, rashes, etc.). Therefore, many individuals suffering from dandruff seek an effective and definitive treatment method. Antifungal agents are commonly used to control dandruff by eliminating or reducing the multiplication of resident yeasts on the scalp. Common antifungal agents include climbazole, zinc pyrithione, and piroctone olamine, which may be included in an antidandruff composition.

[0003] For example, document IN201927042237A discloses a care composition ca Anti-dandruff pill comprising (i) 0.01 to 3% by weight of zinc pyrithione; (ii) 1 to 5% by weight of amino acid; and (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of additional zinc compound.

[0004] Document IN202147030786A discloses a hair care composition comprising from 0.5 to 45% by weight of an acyl glutamate salt and a piroctone olamine anti-dandruff agent, wherein the acyl glutamate salt and the anti-dandruff agent are present in a weight ratio of from 5:1 to 50:1, and wherein the composition does not comprise other anionic surfactants in addition to the acyl glutamate salt.

[0005] However, after prolonged use of these antifungal agents, consumers feel that their scalp tends to be dry and fragile.

[0006] Consumers find treating dandruff with shampoo convenient because it fits into their regular routine. Anti-dandruff shampoos provide hair cleansing benefits while simultaneously treating dandruff.

[0007] However, many commercially available anti-dandruff shampoos are not effective enough in combating dandruff.

[0008] There is therefore a need to formulate a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, which can relieve the problem of dandruff and the consequences due to dandruff such as itching, erythema, etc. without disturbing the barrier function of the scalp. Summary of the invention

[0009] An object of the present invention is to provide a composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, which can alleviate the problem of dandruff and the consequences due to dandruff such as itching, erythema, etc. without disturbing the barrier function of the scalp.

[0010] Another object of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic method for the care of the skin, particularly the scalp, which can alleviate the problem of dandruff and the consequences due to dandruff such as itching, erythema, etc. without disturbing the barrier function of the scalp.

[0011] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for skin care, comprising:

[0012] (i) at least one N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compound;

[0013] (ii) at least one hydroxy acid; and

[0014] (iii) at least one penetration enhancer.

[0015] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin for a period of time and then rinsing the skin.

[0016] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can alleviate the problem of dandruff and the consequences due to dandruff such as itching, erythema, etc. without disturbing the barrier function of the scalp.

[0017] It has also been found that the composition according to the present invention is soft and stable over time at room temperature (25°C).

[0018] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from the detailed description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0019] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0020] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] shows photographs of the scalp of a subject with severe dandruff, in which A: before treatment; B: after being treated for 4 weeks.

[0021] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows photographs of the scalp of a subject with moderate dandruff, in which A: before treatment; B: after being treated for 4 weeks.

[0022] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows the standard for grading dandruff on a scalp.

[0023] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] shows the scalp dryness scale using a dermascore.

[0024] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] shows the HEPES signal in the stratum corneum after application of the composition of inventive example 1, in which A: after 1 minute; B: after 15 minutes.

[0025] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] shows photos of the composition of the invention example 1 after it has been stored for 2 months, wherein A: stored at room temperature (25°C), B: stored at 45°C.

[0026] [Fig.7] [Fig.7] shows photographs of the composition of the inventive example 4 after 2 months of storage, in which A: stored at 45°C, B: stored at room temperature (25°C). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0027] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "ranging from... to...".

[0028] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0029] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0030] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing the amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values, which may be modified according to the intended purpose, if necessary.

[0031] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification is inconsistent with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein document applies.

[0032] In the context of the present invention, the term "skin" is intended to cover facial skin, body skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and the scalp. The scalp is more particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0033] All percentages in the present invention refer to percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

[0034] According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin, in particular the scalp, comprising:

[0035] (i) at least one N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compound;

[0036] (ii) at least one hydroxy acid; and

[0037] (iii) at least one penetration enhancer. N-substituted amino acid sulfonic compounds

[0038] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compound.

[0039] Suitable N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compounds include, but are not limited to, N,N-bis[2-hydroxyethyl]-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, 3-[N-morpholino]propanesulfonic acid, piperazine-N,N'-bis[2-ethanesulfonic acid], 3-[N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino]-2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid, 2-[N-morpholino]ethanesulfonic acid, N-(2-acetamido)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methyl-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. A mixture of these acids may also be used.

[0040] Preferably, the N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compound is selected from N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, piperazine-N,N'-bis[2-ethanesulfonic acid], and a combination thereof.

[0041] More preferably, the N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compound is N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, also referred to as hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid.

[0042] The inventors have discovered that the use of N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compounds, in particular hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, can improve dandruff condition without disrupting the barrier function of the scalp.

[0043] As a commercial product of N-substituted amino acid sulfonic compounds, mention may be made of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid sold under the name HEPES-LUV by the company TAIWAN HOPAX.

[0044] Advantageously, the N-substituted amino sulfonic acid compound is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 5% by weight to 7.5% by weight, for example. relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacids

[0045] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydroxy acid.

[0046] The hydroxy acid suitable for the composition according to the present invention may be chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids.

[0047] By "alpha-hydroxy acid" is meant a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).

[0048] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.

[0049] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and a combination thereof.

[0050] More preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the composition includes glycolic acid.

[0051] As a commercial alpha-hydroxy acid product, glycolic acid may be mentioned. sold under the name KELTROL CG-T by the company CP KELCO.

[0052] By “beta-hydroxy acid” is meant a carboxylic acid comprising a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0053] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof and combinations thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivative of formula:

[0055] in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, conjugated or not, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0056] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula: --O--C — Ri O

[0057] in which Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0058] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

[0059] More preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and a combination thereof.

[0060] Most preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred that the hydroxy acid used in the composition comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0062] Advantageously, the hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Penetration activators

[0063] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least less a penetration enhancer.

[0064] The penetration enhancer suitable for use in the composition according to the present invention includes, but is not limited to:

[0065] - alcohols, alkanols, alkanones such as benzyl alcohol, decanol, ethanol, octanol and propanol, oleyl alcohol;

[0066] - polyols and esters thereof such as 1,2,6 hexanetriol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate;

[0067] - fatty acids such as lauric acid, oleic acid and valeric acid;

[0068] - fatty acid esters such as ethyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, adipate of diisopropyl and methyl propionate;

[0069] - amides and other nitrogen compounds such as diethanolamine, dimethylacetamide, dimethylformamide, ethanolamine, l-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 2-pyrrolidone, triethanolamine and urea;

[0070] - ethers such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, octadecyl ether of polyethylene glycol, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether;

[0071] - pyrrolidones such as 2-pyrrolidone;

[0072] - 1-substituted azacycloheptan-2-ones, such as ln-dodecylcyclazacycloheptan-2-one;

[0073] - sulfoxides such as decylmethylsulfoxide and dimethylsulfoxide, and

[0074] - a combination of these.

[0075] Preferably, the penetration enhancer is selected from diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, oleyl alcohol, propylene glycol, diisopropyl adipate, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, triethanolamine, polyethylene glycol octadecyl ether, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, and a combination thereof.

[0076] More preferably, the penetration enhancer is ethanol.

[0077] Advantageously, the penetration activator is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic thickeners

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener.

[0079] It has been found that in the presence of a hydrophilic thickener, a higher viscosity is obtained, which is beneficial for the stability and application of the composition.

[0080] The viscosity of the composition according to the invention can be measured at 25°C, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M1 or M2 rotating at 200 rpm.

[0081] Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of 15 UD (Deflection Units) to 60 UD, preferably 20 UD to 55 UD, measured at 25°C using a Rheomat R180 viscometer equipped with an M1 or M2 spindle rotating at 200 rpm.

[0082] By “hydrophilic thickener” is meant a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0083] Hydrophilic thickeners can be used alone or in combination.

[0084] As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may in particular be chosen from:

[0085] - polyvinylpyrrolidone,

[0086] - polyvinyl alcohol

[0087] - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as products sold under the name Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) by the Goodrich company;

[0088] - homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F® or Versicol K® or Salcare SC95 by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica, polyacrylic acids of the Synthalen K type;

[0089] - polyacrylamides;

[0090] - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their salt of sodium under the name Reten® by the company Hercules, poly(sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan No. 7® by the company Vanderbilt, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F® by the company Henkel;

[0091] - homopolymers and copolymers of acid 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium poly-acryldimethyltauramide);

[0092] - crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide / AMPS, in emulsion form W / O, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0093] - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of the Pemulen type;

[0094] - polysaccharide biopolymers, for example xanthan gum, gum guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose. Examples include xanthan gum sold under the trade name Keltrol® CG-T by CP Kelco; and hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the trade name NATROSOL 250 HHR by ASHLAND.

[0095] - hydrophilic pyrogenic silicas obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing finely divided silica. Hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM-130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by the company Cabot. They preferably have a particle size that can range from nanometric to micrometric, for example from about 5 to 200 nm;

[0096] - hydrophilic clays;

[0097] - associative polymers, for example PEG-150 / alcohol copolymer stearyl / SMDI sold as Aculyn 46 by Rohm & Haas, or steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold as Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis;

[0098] - and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers.

[0100] More preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and a combination thereof.

[0101] Most preferably, the hydrophilic thickener comprises a combination of xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0102] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Chelating agent

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent.

[0104] More preferably, the chelating agent is chosen from carboxylic amino acids and salts thereof.

[0105] The salts are in particular the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.

[0106] The chelating agents may be chosen in particular from compounds having the following INCI name:

[0107] diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA),

[0108] ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS,

[0109] ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA),

[0110] ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG),

[0111] glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS),

[0112] 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS),

[0113] ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA),

[0114] N,N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED),

[0115] nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA),

[0116] methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA),

[0117] N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133),

[0118] iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102),

[0119] beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid- N-monoacetic acid (described in document EP-A-509 382),

[0120] chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (described in EP-A-509 382),

[0121] ethanoldiglycine acid, and

[0122] tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38, 45S or GL-47-S from Akzo Nobel.

[0123] Among the chelating agents mentioned, preferably used are ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) and a combination thereof.

[0124] Most preferably, the chelating agent is tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

[0125] It has been found that in the presence of a chelating agent, the stability and appearance of the composition can be improved; the appearance of the composition remains unchanged after one month of storage.

[0126] Advantageously, the chelating agent is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0127] The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0128] Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.

[0129] The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.

[0130] The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20 to 25°C), for example polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, in particular caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, hexylene glycol, glycerin; glycol ethers (containing in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to the invention, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0132] The composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, preservatives (for example, potassium sorbate, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol), pH regulators (for example, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0133] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of adjuvants or additional additive so as not to negatively affect the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for skin care, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0135] (i) from 3% by weight to 7.5% by weight of N-acid 2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid;

[0136] (ii) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of glycolic acid;

[0137] (iii) from 10% by weight to 20% by weight of ethanol;

[0138] (iv) from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one hydrophilic agent chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers; and

[0139] (v) from 0.1% by weight to 0.25% by weight of at least one chelating agent chosen from ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and a combination thereof. Dosage form and use

[0140] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a serum.

[0141] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention has a higher viscosity.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of 15 UD (Deflection Units) to 60 UD, preferably 20 UD to 55 UD, measured at 25°C using a Rheomat R180 viscometer equipped with an M1 or M2 spindle rotating at 200 rpm.

[0143] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of skin care comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin for a period of time and then rinsing the skin.

[0144] In particular, the skin is the scalp.

[0145] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, having a limiting character. EXAMPLES

[0146] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0147] [Tableauxl] INCI name Trade name Supplier HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZ INE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID HEPES-LUV TAIWAN HOPAX GLYCOLIC ACID GLYPURE 70 CHEMOURS ETHANOL ETHYL ALCOHOL 99N AROMA HOLLY LIMITED XANTHAN KELTROL CG-T CP KELCO TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE DISSOLVINE GL-47-S AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON) HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE NATROSOL 250 HHR CS ASHLAND

[0148] Invention Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1

[0149] The compositions according to the examples of the invention (El.) 1 to 5 and the comparative example (EC.) 1 were prepared according to the contents indicated in table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated).

[0150] [Tables2] Components DI 1 DI. 2 DI 3 DI 4 DI 5 EC. 1% by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight HYDROXYETHYLPL PERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID 5 5 5 5 5 0 GLYCOLIC ACID 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 0 ETHANOL 10 10 10 10 10 0 XANTHAN 0.12 0.5 0.375 0.12 0.12 0.12 HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0 0 0.375 0 0 0 TE-TRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.2 0.2 0.2 0 0.2 0.2 POTASSIUM SORBATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6 6 6 6 6 6 PROPANEDIOL 2 2 2 2 2 2 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.25 0 CITRIC ACID 0 0 0 0 0 0.7 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 PH 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.6 4 5.3 Preparation process

[0151] The above compositions were prepared as follows:

[0152] 1). add xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose (if used) into water little by little to avoid clumping and stir well until a uniform mixture is obtained;

[0153] 2). add glycolic acid and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid (the if applicable) to the mixture and shake well;

[0154] 3). gradually add to the mixture the ethanol (if applicable), the caprylyl glycol, the butylene glycol and propanediol;

[0155] 4). add potassium sorbate and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate to the mixture; and

[0156] 5). measure and adjust the pH with sodium hydroxide and citric acid (the if applicable) to obtain a composition.

[0157] The compositions obtained are in the form of serum. Example 2: Evaluation of compositions

[0158] The anti-dandruff efficacy, softness, cleansing performance and scalp barrier function and the softness of the formula, penetration of the active ingredient, viscosity, stability, of the compositions prepared in Example 1 were characterized. Anti-dandruff efficacy

[0159] The anti-dandruff efficacy of the composition of inventive example 1 was evaluated by a consumer test and a clinical study as follows. Consumer testing

[0160] Study design: 4-week treatment, 15 subjects aged 18 to 40 years with moderate to severe dandruff, they are users of commercial anti-dandruff shampoos.

[0161] First, the composition of inventive example 1 was applied to the dry and dirty scalp for 15 minutes, then the hair was washed with a commercial anti-dandruff shampoo. This treatment was carried out 3 to 4 times per week.

[0162] [Fig. 1] shows photographs of the scalp of a subject with severe dandruff: (a) before treatment; (b) after being treated for 4 weeks.

[0163] [Fig.2] shows the scalp photographs of a subject with moderate dandruff: (a) before treatment; (b) after being treated for 4 weeks.

[0164] After 4 weeks of treatment, the subjects were asked to give their opinion on the effect of relieving the dandruff problem.

[0165] According to the subjects' comments, compared with using a commercial anti-dandruff shampoo to wash their hair, after the subjects used the composition of Invention Example 1 and the commercial anti-dandruff shampoo for 2 weeks, the size of dandruff was reduced, the amount of dandruff was decreased, the dandruff syndrome including itching and erythema was improved, and the dandruff problem was under control after 2 to 3 weeks of application. Meanwhile, with the application of the composition of Invention Example 1, the scalp was well moisturized, and the oily feeling on the scalp can be postponed for 0.5 to 1 day. The moisturized and itchy-free scalp lasts well between 2 hair washes, providing relief and Non-greasy scalp for more than a day, almost no acne / bumpy scalp during product testing. Hair was well cleansed and had a volumized appearance. Clinical study

[0166] Design: 8 subjects, composition of inventive example 1 (test) versus composition of comparative example 1 (placebo), half-head test, 7-day treatment.

[0167] The composition of Invention Example 1 and the composition of Comparative Example 1 were applied to the dry and dirty scalp of one half of the head and the other half of the head respectively for 15 minutes, and then the hair was washed with a neutral shampoo. Such treatment was carried out every other day, once a day.

[0168] Test points: just before the first wash (T0), 24h after the first wash / just before the second wash (T24h), 48h after the first wash / just before the third wash (T48h), and just before the fifth wash (T8d).

[0169] A film score ranging from 0 to 5 was assigned to each test point based on the standard shown in [Fig.3].

[0170] The variation of the score at T24h, T48h and T8d compared to the score at T0 was calculated and summarized in Table 3.

[0171] [Tables3] Change in score from T0 T24h T48h T8d Half-head-trial (ELI) -0.61 -0.59 -0.98 Half-head-placebo (EC.l) -0.55 -0.53 -0.97 P-value 0.821 0.451 0.007 (S)

[0172] (S)-statistically significant at 95% CL

[0173] The results of the adhesive anti-dandruff grade show that compared to the composition of comparative example 1, the composition of inventive example 1 can provide an anti-dandruff benefit for 7 days of use.

[0174] Scalp barrier function and cleansing performance

[0175] The scalp barrier function and cleansing performance of the composition of inventive example 1 were evaluated as follows.

[0176] Study plan:

[0177] 2 groups of subjects: test group and control group.

[0178] Test group: 42 subjects aged 20 to 40 years with oily scalp;

[0179] Control group: 42 subjects aged 20 to 40 years with an oily scalp.

[0180] During 6 weeks of treatment, for the test group, the composition of the invention example 1 was applied to the dry and dirty scalp for 15 minutes, then the hair was washed with a neutral shampoo; and for the control group, the hair was washed with the neutral shampoo without prior treatment with the composition of the invention example 1. This treatment was carried out once a day. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

[0181] Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was determined using a vapometer just before the first wash (T0), 24h after the first wash / just before the second wash (T24h), just before the 8th wash (T2wk), and just before the 15th wash (T4wk). A lower TEWL indicates a better barrier function.

[0182] The results are summarized in Table 4.

[0183] [Tables4] Mean TEWL T0 T24h T2wk T4wk Test group 26.8 25.8 25.3 23.4 i(S) Control group 22.9 22.6 24.1 28.1 î

[0184] î: significant increase compared to T0 at 95% CL

[0185] J, : significant decrease compared to T0 at 95% CL

[0186] S: significant difference compared to the control group at 95% CL

[0187] It is found that the scalp barrier function was significantly improved at T4wk for the test group; the scalp barrier function of the control cell was significantly decreased at T4wk for the control group.

[0188] It can also be seen that the barrier function of the scalp was effectively improved at T4wk with the application of the composition of Invention Example 1. Scalp sebum

[0189] The sebum level was determined with a sebuminometer just before the first wash (T0), 24h after the first wash (T24h), just before the 8th wash (T2wk), and just before the 15th wash (T4wk).

[0190] The results are summarized in Table 5.

[0191] [Tables5] Average sebum T0 T24h T2wk T4wk Test group 84.9 80.6 91.3 91.8 Control group 64.0 62.1 73.5 82.7 î

[0192] î: significant increase compared to T0 at 95% CL

[0193] J, : significant decrease compared to T0 at 95% CL

[0194] Scalp sebum was found to be maintained across time points for the test group, and scalp serum increased significantly at T4wk for the control group. Dry scalp

[0195] Scalp dryness between 0 and 9 was determined using a dermascore just before the first wash (T0), 24h after the first wash (T24h), just before the 8th wash (T2wk) and just before the 15th wash (T4wk). Lower scalp dryness indicates a better effect.

[0196] [Fig.4] shows the scalp dryness scale using a dermascore.

[0197] The results are summarized in Table 6.

[0198] [Tableauxô] Drought Average T0 T24h T2wk T4wk Test group 2.2 1.2 i 1.5 i 1.5 i Control group 1.7 1.0 i 1.7 1.4

[0199] î: significant increase compared to T0 at 95% CL

[0200] J, : significant decrease compared to T0 at 95% CL

[0201] It was found that scalp dryness was significantly improved in the Over time for the test group, scalp dryness was significantly improved at T24h for the control group. Compared to the control group, better cleansing performance was demonstrated for the test group using the composition of Invention Example 1.

[0202] Furthermore, for the test group, it was found that with the composition of Invention Example 1, a clean and whitened scalp can be observed, dead cells softened by the serum can be easily removed by rubbing, there was a feeling of light, breathable and refreshing scalp. Softness

[0203] The softness of the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 5 was evaluated as follows:

[0204] The tested composition was injected into an Episkin Day-6 model from Shanghai EPISKIN Biotechnology Co., Ltd, cell viability was determined after 18 hours of incubation.

[0205] Cell viability was calculated as follows:

[0206] Cell viability (%) = Nafter / Nbefore * 100%.

[0207] Navant: the number of living cells before each treatment;

[0208] After: the number of living cells after each treatment.

[0209] The higher the cell viability, the greater the cell survival.

[0210] If the cell viability is greater than 50%, then the tested composition proves to be sufficiently gentle for the scalp.

[0211] The results are summarized in Table 7.

[0212] [Tables?] Formula % mean viability ET NgC (no treatment) 100.0 0.0 ELI 64.8 8.6 EI.5 66.9 4.3

[0213] The results show that the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 5 are gentle to the scalp. Penetration capacity

[0214] The penetration capacity of the compositions of the invention example 1 was evaluated with a confocal Raman laser scanning microscope as follows:

[0215] Material: 3cmX3cm pigskin

[0216] Application of the formula: 6ul / 0.8cmX0.8cm, topical 1 & 15 minutes, 32°C

[0217] Sample processing: cryo-section, 30um thickness / section

[0218] Raman confocal parameters

[0219] Equipment: LabRam HR Evolution (Horiba Jobin-Yvon)

[0220] Raman laser: 532 nm

[0221] Objective: 50X

[0222] Step size: 3 um / dot,

[0223] Scanning area: 21 um (X axis) X 150 um (Y axis)

[0224] Pixel: 2 um / dot

[0225] [Fig.5] shows the HEPES (hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid) signal in the stratum corneum after application of the composition of inventive example 1, in which A: after 1 minute; B: after 15 minutes.

[0226] Comparison of the HEPES signal in the stratum corneum after 1 minute of application and 15 minutes of application shows that the composition of inventive example 1 can penetrate into the stratum corneum after 15 minutes of application. Viscosity

[0227] The viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat RI80 viscometer equipped with an M1 or M2 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and spindle speed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

[0228] The viscosities are summarized in Table 8.

[0229] [Tables8] Properties ELI El. 2 El. 3 EL 4 El. 5 EC. 1 Viscosity (UD) 53 (Ml) 21.5 (M2) 32.7 (M2) 53 (Ml) 52 (Ml) 49 (Ml) Stability

[0230] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 4 were stored at room temperature (25°C).

[0231] [Fig.6] shows photos of the composition of the invention example 1 after it has been stored for 2 months, wherein A: stored at room temperature (25°C), B: stored at 45°C.

[0232] It can be seen that the composition of Invention Example 1 did not show any obvious change in appearance after it was stored at 25°C and 45°C for 2 months.

[0233] [Fig.7] shows photos of the composition of inventive example 4 after it has been stored for 2 months, wherein A: stored at 45°C, B: stored at room temperature (25°C).

[0234] It can be seen that the composition of Invention Example 4 did not show any obvious change in appearance after being stored at 25°C for 2 months, but became yellow after being stored at 45°C for 2 months.

[0235] It can be seen that the composition of inventive example 1 has better stability than that of the composition of inventive example 4.

Claims

1.

2. Claims Cosmetic composition for skin care, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 3% by weight to 7.5% by weight of N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid; (ii) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of glycolic acid; (iii) from 10% by weight to 20% by weight of ethanol; (iv) from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one hydrophilic agent chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers; and (v) from 0.1% by weight to 0.25% by weight of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid, S,S'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and a combination thereof. A non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising applying the composition of claim 1 to the skin for a period of time and then rinsing the skin.

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