Creamy moisturizing cosmetic composition in a water-releasing emulsion
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022001205
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-02-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-21
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-02-11
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Creamy moisturizing cosmetic composition in water-releasing emulsion DOMAIN
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a creamy water-in-oil emulsion which exhibits rapid aqueous separation upon application. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers are seeking cosmetic compositions formulated with sustainable, natural, and / or green materials, and in particular that are free of or minimize the use of non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and petroleum-based ingredients) and ingredients that have a negative environmental impact. In some examples, consumers are seeking compositions that also provide moisturizing and humectant benefits with a pleasant texture, such as moisturizing and humectant products that include a high water content in an inverse or water-in-oil emulsion.A variety of products are available that include at least some of the characteristics sought by consumers, however, formulations that include a high water content in an inverse or water-in-oil emulsion have proven unstable for conventional use and storage, due to the limitations of the emulsifying systems employed to retain the aqueous phase within the oil phase. Thus, despite their otherwise desirable properties, these products may not meet customer quality expectations when the products pre-fractionate (i.e., release the aqueous phase from the oil phase and change from a thick, creamy state to a liquid state) before the application loses its thick, creamy texture and becomes thin and runny or leaves pools of aqueous and / or oil phase in the container.As a result, there is a need for products that meet the environmental and sensory properties customers seek and maintain texture stability during storage and under ordinary use conditions. SUMMARY
[0003] To address the shortcomings of the art with moisturizing and humectant products, particularly having a high aqueous phase content, the inventors provide a composition which has a unique rapid aqueous break of the emulsion rapidly releasing the substantial internal aqueous phase during application. The composition provides an initial substantially thick creamy texture transitioning to a fine texture, the creamy emulsion being stabilized and not susceptible to separation under freeze-thaw and high temperature conditions, making it desirable from a quality perspective. With this invention, the composition, as illustrated herein, encompasses various embodiments that are high quality, silicone-free inverse emulsion products capable of containing a substantial aqueous phase content, greater than 75%, and having a consumer-pleasing texture. In various embodiments, the composition is formulated with sustainable, natural and / or green materials, and in particular that are free of or minimize the use of non-renewable ingredients and ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment.
[0004] According to different embodiments, the invention provides a cosmetic composition, in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase, the creamy emulsion having
[0005] i. at least one polyglyceryl ester;
[0006] ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof;
[0007] iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol;
[0008] iv. at least one oil;
[0009] v. water and
[0010] vi. optionally one or more additives.
[0011] In various embodiments, the composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters. And in various embodiments, the creamy emulsion exhibits rupture and release of the aqueous phase upon rubbing the composition onto a substrate, and the composition exhibits stability at temperatures in a range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, the stability being evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of rubbing onto a substrate.
[0012] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearoyl dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof, and combinations thereof.In some embodiments, said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Co- wax. pemicia Cerifera (Camauba) Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, squalane and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexanediol and combinations thereof.
[0013] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester is present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 2%, by weight of the composition;
[0014] In some embodiments, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof may be in an oil phase or an aqueous phase. In embodiments wherein the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in an aqueous phase.
[0015] In some embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
[0016] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 23%, by weight of the composition;
[0017] In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in an amount in a range of about 0.01% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, such that under a given application stress when the composition is rubbed onto a substrate, the creamy emulsion exhibits breakdown and release from the aqueous phase more rapidly as the amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is increased within the range.
[0018] In some embodiments, water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof is present from about 75% to about 95% by weight of the composition, and wherein, when present, said at least one moisturizing agent is present from about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
[0019] In some embodiments, the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase that comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof, and the at least one glycol or diol, the aqueous phase present in a range of about 75% to about 95% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, and (b) an oil phase comprising the at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and the at least one oil. In some embodiments, the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the phase aqueous to the total weight of said at least one polyglyceryl ester ranging from about 45 to about 70. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof may be in an oil phase or in an aqueous phase. In embodiments in which the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in an aqueous phase.
[0020] In some embodiments, the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase ingredients selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble active ingredients, emollients, silicone oils, and combinations thereof, and the aqueous phase and the oil phase or both phases optionally comprise one or more of the optional additives, wherein the optional additives are selected from the group consisting of pH regulators, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, colorants, pigments, and combinations thereof.
[0021] According to certain embodiments, the invention provides a cosmetic composition in which
[0022] i. said at least one polyglyceryl ester is present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 2% maximum, by weight of the composition;
[0023] ii. glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is present in an amount of at least about 0.1% to about 1.5%, by weight of the composition;
[0024] iii. said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10%, by weight of the composition;
[0025] iv. said at least one oil is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 23%, by weight of the composition;
[0026] v. water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof is present in an amount of about 65% to about 95% by weight of the composition and
[0027] vi. the optional additive(s) are selected from the group consisting of pH regulators, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, colorants, pigments and combinations thereof.
[0028] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearoyl dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexanediol and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Copemicia Cerifera (Camauba) Wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, squalane and combinations thereof.
[0029] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, glutamic acid or a derivative thereof comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol, and said at least one oil comprises Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Copernicia Cerifera (Camauba) Wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, squalane and water or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof comprises water, and at least one moisturizer present from about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition, all amounts by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0030] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35%; glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8%; said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol present from about 1.6% to about 5%; said at least one oil comprises Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Copernicia Cerifera (Camauba) Wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil and squalane, each present from about 0.1% to about 23%; and water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof comprises water, and at least one moisturizing agent that includes glycerin present at about 5%.In some embodiments, the composition further comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide greens, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene (beta-carotene or other provitamin A carotenoid), retinol, citric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0031] According to various embodiments, the invention also relates to a method of applying a cosmetic composition with water phase disruption. In certain embodiments, the method comprises steps which include: selecting a cosmetic composition in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase, the creamy emulsion comprising
[0032] i. at least one polyglyceryl ester;
[0033] ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof;
[0034] iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol;
[0035] iv. at least one oil and
[0036] v. water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof
[0037] and applying the composition to a keratin substrate by contacting the composition and rubbing in a circular motion so that the creamy emulsion exhibits separation and release of the aqueous phase.
[0038] In certain embodiments of the method, the provided cosmetic composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters and the composition exhibits stability at temperatures in a range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, the stability being evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of rubbing on a substrate.
[0039] In some embodiments of the method, in the provided cosmetic composition said at least one polyglyceryl ester is present from about 0.01% to about 2%; glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present from about 0.1% to about 1.5%; said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present from about 0.01% to about 10%; said at least one oil is present from about 0.1% to about 23% by weight of the composition; and water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof is present from about 65% to about 95%; all amounts being by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments of the method, the provided cosmetic composition optionally comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of pH regulators, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, colorants, pigments and combinations thereof.
[0040] In some embodiments of the method, in the provided cosmetic composition said at least one polyglyceryl ester comprises poly-glyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35%; glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8%; said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol present at about 1.6% to about 5%; said at least one oil is present at about 0.1% to about 23%, by weight of the composition; and water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof comprises water present at about 65% to about 95% and glycerin present at about 5%. In some embodiments of the method, in the provided cosmetic composition the composition further comprises one or more additives selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide greens, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene (beta-carotene or other provitamin A carotenoid), retinol, citric acid and combinations thereof, and by weight of the composition.In some embodiments of the method, in the provided cosmetic composition, the composition is a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol and (b) an oily phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and said at least one oil.In some embodiments of the method, in the provided cosmetic composition, the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of the at least one polyglyceryl ester in a range of about 45 to about 70, and the oil phase further comprises one or more oil phase ingredients selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, oil-soluble active ingredients, emollients, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof may be in the oil phase or in the aqueous phase. In embodiments wherein the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.
[0041] According to various embodiments, the invention also relates to a method of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase. In certain embodiments, the method comprises steps which include: providing ingredients which exclude mineral and organic anti-UV actives, the provided ingredients comprising:
[0042] i. at least one polyglyceryl ester;
[0043] ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof;
[0044] iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol;
[0045] iv. at least one oil;
[0046] v. water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof and,
[0047] vi. optionally one or more additives
[0048] and combining the provided ingredients to obtain (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol and (b) an oil phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and said at least one oil. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof may be in the oil phase or in the aqueous phase. In embodiments in which the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase.
[0049] In certain embodiments of the method, the cosmetic composition demonstrates stability at temperatures in a range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions that range from about -20°C to about 25°C, stability evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of rubbing on a substrate.
[0050] In some embodiments of the method, the composition formed is a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one acceptable glycol or diol and (b) an oil phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and said at least one oil, the oil phase further comprising one or more oil phase ingredients selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble active ingredients, emollients, silicone oils, and combinations thereof, and wherein the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of said at least one polyglyceryl ester of about 45 to about 70.In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof may be in an oil phase or an aqueous phase. In embodiments wherein the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in an aqueous phase.
[0051] In certain embodiments of the method, the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is provided in an amount in a range of about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, whereby, under a given application stress, the creamy emulsion exhibits more rapid separation and release from the aqueous phase as the amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is increased within the range.
[0052] These and other aspects of the invention are set forth in the appended claims and described in more detail in the detailed description of the invention.
[0053] This invention describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with the general inventive concepts and is not intended in any way to limit the scope of the invention. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not limited by the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning.
[0054] It is understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are both exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0055] The term "separation" as used herein refers to the phenomenon of release of the aqueous phase from the oil phase in an inverse (water-in-oil) emulsion and the conversion of the emulsion from a thick, creamy state to a liquid state. Separation is demonstrated and may be measured based on one or more elements, including the extent of release of the aqueous phase from the emulsion as detected visually or by measuring the amount of aqueous phase released, and the change in the fluid properties of the emulsion, either as detected visually / tactically as a change from a more solid cream to a liquid cream, or as a rheological measurement. The term "breakpoint" refers to a measurable point at which breakage occurs upon application of a frictional force and, in some cases, application of a stress measurable using a testing instrument.As described herein, the breaking point of a composition of the invention may be selected based on the amount of at least one diol present where an increased amount of diol provides faster breaking under the same application of friction or stress compared to a lesser amount of diol.
[0056] The terms "stable" and "stability" with respect to the emulsion architecture of the composition of the invention refer to the composition remaining in a creamy emulsion state and not to phase separation, as evidenced by the formation of significant fluid droplets or the accumulation of separated phases (e.g., upon storage and in the absence of application of force or frictional stress to a substrate) and / or the maintenance over time of rheological characteristics. In some embodiments, stable or stability may include the absence or minimal formation of droplets that indicate release of the internal aqueous phase of the emulsion. Stability is evidenced by visual inspection and / or by direct measurement of viscosity.In various embodiments, a composition according to the invention remains stable at temperatures between about 5°C and about 45°C, inclusive, over a period of time of at least 8 weeks (~ two months), and may remain stable for longer periods, for example, for at least three months, or at least four months, or at least six months, and up to about at least 3 years, or any value, range, or subrange therebetween. Embodiments . illustrated compositions of the inventive composition shown in the examples herein have demonstrated stability at 5°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C for a period of eight weeks. And such illustrated compositions have demonstrated stability over 10 freeze-thaw cycles at -20°C / 25°C.
[0057] The cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase comprising at least one polyglyceryl ester, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, at least one oil, water, and optionally one or more additives. A water-in-oil emulsion is sometimes referred to as an inverse emulsion. The composition is formulated as a "green" or more "natural" composition compared to comparable compositions, which may contain mineral oil and / or fossil-based ingredients and leave an unpleasant feeling of oily and greasy skin after use. The composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters. The creamy emulsion exhibits breakage upon application by rubbing the composition onto a substrate.The composition exhibits stability at temperatures in the range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, where stability is evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of rubbing on a substrate. The composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion of creamy texture.
[0058] The inventors developed the composition of the invention to address certain gaps in the art, including the consumer need for compositions that are formulated with sustainable, natural, and / or green materials, and in particular that are free of or minimize the use of non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and gasoline-based ingredients) and ingredients that negatively impact the environment (e.g., EDTA, which mobilizes heavy metals).In some embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of non-renewable ingredients and ingredients that negatively impact the environment, and in some particular embodiments, is free or essentially free of ingredients selected from the group consisting of parabens, phthalates, cyclomethicones, fragrance, silicone, mineral oil, synthetic colorants, gelling agents, sulfates, polyquaternium, microplastics, EDTA, silicone oils, mineral UV filters, organic UV filters, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the composition may include only nominal amounts of essence-based ingredients or may be free of essence-based ingredients.
[0059] The inventors also sought to address the shortcomings of the art related to the instability of inverse emulsions, particularly those having a significant aqueous phase, which are vulnerable to phase separation during typical storage periods or when exposed to freeze-thaw cycles. In some embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises a poly-glyceryl ester emulsifier.
[0060] It is known to the inventors that polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, which is generally used for light, low viscosity cosmetic formulations (not thick, creamy emulsions), is used and recommended for use in amounts greater than 2%.
[0061] The inventors have shown in compositions that use polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers, for example, using polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, in an amount well below the recommended or generally used amount of less than 2%, that these compositions stably retain most of the important internal phase without separation or pooling but that stability decreases over time. The inventors have unexpectedly provided a composition in which the inclusion of glutamic acid or a derivative thereof results in prolonged stability, as shown in the examples. In addition, the inventors have unexpectedly provided a composition in which the inclusion and modulation of the amount of a glycol, in some embodiments a diol, and as illustrated using propanediol, allows adjustment of the point at which the aqueous transition occurs at a given voltage.As shown in the examples, increasing the weight percent amount of propanediol in the composition results in earlier and more abrupt failure during application (at a particular voltage) compared to applying the same composition with a lesser amount of glycol.
[0062] Thus, the inventors have demonstrated that the composition of the invention forms a robust emulsion that exhibits freeze / thaw stability and long-term storage stability (up to 8 weeks), while retaining the property of separating upon application by rubbing onto a substrate such as skin. Comparative compositions lacking the ingredients of the inventive composition described herein fail material stability tests, including freeze / thaw and storage stability, as well as water resistance when rubbed onto a substrate. Glyceryl ester emulsifier
[0063] In accordance with the invention, embodiments of the composition comprise at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier. In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one polyglyceryl ester.
[0064] The term "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" or "HLB" refers to an ex- empirical pressure of the relationship between the hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups of an emulsifier. This term is well known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (Pub: ICI Americas Inc., 1984) and US2006 / 0217283 at
[0053] ,
[0065] In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier may have an HLB that is about 10, or less than about 10, and is in some embodiments in a range of about 2.5 to about 10, or about 2.5 to about 9.5 or about 3 to about 9, and in some examples, the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier has an HLB that is in a range of about 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, to about 9.9, including increments of about 0.1 therein and therebetween. In some embodiments, the at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier may have an HLB equal to or greater than about 10.In some embodiments, the composition excludes emulsifiers having an HLB of about 10, or greater than about 10, including up to or greater than about 15, wherein the composition is free of, or substantially free of, emulsifiers having an HLB of about equal to or greater than about 10. In some embodiments, the composition excludes polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers having an HLB that is about 10. In some embodiments, the composition excludes polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers having an HLB that is greater than 10, or in a range of greater than 10 to about 15 or greater than about 15.
[0066] In various embodiments, the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, poly-glyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, poly-glyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate,polyglyceryl-4 caprate, poly-glyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, poly-glyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, poly-glyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, poly-glyceryl-5 trioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and , their combinations.
[0067] In some embodiments, a suitable polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, poly-glyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, poly-glyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, poly-glyceryl-5 trimyristate, polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, poly-glyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate and combinations thereof.
[0068] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearoyl dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof.
[0069] In some embodiments, said at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
[0070] In some embodiments, a suitable polyglyceryl ester emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 distearate, poly-glyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, poly-glyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate and combinations thereof, wherein the polyglyceryl emulsifier has an HLB that is about 10 or greater than about 10.In some such embodiments, the composition excludes a polyglyceryl emulsifier selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, poly-glyceryl-3 caprate and combinations thereof.
[0071] In various embodiments, each of said at least one polyglyceryl ester is present in the composition at a concentration of from about 0.01% to about 10%, and in some embodiments from about 0.1% to about 5%, and in some embodiments from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, or about 1.35%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, the combination thereof present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 10%, each of the more than one present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0072] In some representative examples, a polyglyceryl ester coemulsifier comprising polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate may be present in the composition in a range of about 0.1% to about 1% or about 0.2%.
[0073] Thus, in various embodiments, each of said at least one polyglyceryl ester emulsifier is present in a composition according to the invention from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 weight percent, including increments and ranges therebetween. Glutamic acid or a derivative thereof
[0074] In accordance with the invention, embodiments of the composition comprise at least one glutamic acid or derivative thereof. In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than glutamic acid or derivative thereof.
[0075] In some embodiments, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof, and combinations thereof.
[0076] In certain particular embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.
[0077] In various embodiments, glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is present from about 0.01% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, or from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.4% to about 1.2%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.4% to about 1%, and in some embodiments from about 0.5% to about 0.9%, or about 0.8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0078] Thus, in various embodiments, glutamic acid or a derivative thereof, is present in a composition according to the invention from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4 to about 5 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween. Cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol
[0079] In accordance with the invention, embodiments of the composition comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol. In some embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is a diol, and in some particular embodiments an alkane diol. In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol.
[0080] In some embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is a diol selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexanediol and combinations thereof.
[0081] In certain particular embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol comprises propanediol.
[0082] In various embodiments, said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition, and in some embodiments, from about 0.8% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 7%, and in some embodiments, from about 2% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, at about 5% or about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0083] Thus, in various embodiments, each or a combination of at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in a composition according to the invention at about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween. Oil
[0084] According to the various embodiments, the composition comprises at least one oil. In certain embodiments, said at least one oil is a water-immiscible oil. In certain embodiments, said at least one oil may comprise more than one oil. In certain embodiments, said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of butters, waxes and vegetable or plant-derived hydrocarbon oils.
[0085] In certain particular embodiments, an oil may be selected from purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), squalane, hemisqualane, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-hexyl palmitate, palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate and 2-diethylhexyl succinate, cocoglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicapryl maleate, caprylic / capric triglyceride,isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, avocado oil, aloe extracts, jojoba oil, castor oil, fatty acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, fatty alcohol, cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C9-C15 alcohols, alkanes, mineral oil, silicone, poly-siloxane dimethyl, ether, polyoxypropylene butyl ether, poly-oxypropylene cetyl ether, alkyl benzoate C12-C15, aryl alkyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate and any combinations thereof. In some embodiments, an oil may be selected from isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate, coco caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl adipate, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, silicone, synthetic, and petroleum-based oils are excluded. In some specific embodiments, the composition excludes mineral oil, silicone oil, petroleum-based oil, or a combination thereof.
[0086] In accordance with the various embodiments, the at least one oil is present from about 0.01% to about 20%. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0087] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least one vegetable butter, said at least one butter selected from the group consisting of butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuaçu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, said at least one butter has a melting point in the range of about 30 to about 45 degrees Celsius.
[0088] In some embodiments, said at least one oil comprises at least one wax. In some particular embodiments, said at least one wax is selected from the group consisting of Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and combinations thereof.
[0089] In some embodiments, said at least one oil may be selected from Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil, squalane and combinations thereof.
[0090] In an exemplary embodiment, said at least one oil comprises a mixture comprising Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter, Co-pemicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil and squalane.
[0091] In some embodiments, the at least one oil may be present from about 0.01% to about 23%, or from about 1% to about 12%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0092] In some embodiments, the amount of vegetable butter present in the composition may be at least 1%, alternatively from about 1% to about 23%; from about 2% to about 9%, alternatively from about 3% to about 8%, alternatively from about 4% to about 7%, alternatively from about 5% to about 6%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0093] In some embodiments, the amount of wax, when present in the composition, may be from about 0.05% to about 5%, or from about 0.05% to about 1% or 0.1% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, depending on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0094] Therefore, any oil or combination of oils is present, by weight, in based on the total weight of the composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16,17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent by weight, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween. Water
[0095] According to various embodiments, the composition comprises an aqueous phase which is present in a range of about 75% to about 95%, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof, the at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol and any optional suitable aqueous phase additive.
[0096] In accordance with the various embodiments, water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent, or a combination thereof, are present in the composition. In some embodiments, the water is present in a range of from about 65% to about 95%, and in some embodiments, from about 60% to about 85%, and in some embodiments, from about 70% to about 80%, and in some embodiments, from about 70% to about 77%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.Thus, water is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, to about 95 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges within and between these values. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0097] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, corn water, chamomile water or lime water and / or natural thermal water or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Good, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, that is, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.
[0098] The pH of the composition, in particular the aqueous phase of the composition, may be adjusted before combining the oily phase with the aqueous phase to avoid practical difficulty in measuring the pH in an internal aqueous phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. In various embodiments, the pH is a physiologically acceptable pH. In some embodiments, the pH of the aqueous phase before emulsification may be adjusted with pH regulators to a pH of between about 5 and 6 by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid. Moisturizing agents and solvents
[0099] In accordance with the invention, embodiments of the composition may comprise at least one moisturizing agent, at least one solvent, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one moisturizing agent, more than one solvent, or a combination thereof. The moisturizing agent may be a polyol. In some embodiments, the moisturizing agent comprises glycerin.
[0100] In some embodiments, suitable moisturizing agents that may be used according to the disclosure may be selected from one or more polyols, including, for example, glycerin, glycerol, glycols, such as caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexaxylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol hexaxylene glycol; glycolic ethers such as monopropylene, dipropylene (C1-C4) alkyl ethers and tripropylene glycol; squalane; triacetin; sugars such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose pentaerythritol, inositol; pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); lactic acid; lithium chloride; acetamide MEA; sodium lactate; urea; dicyanamide; hyaluronic acid; aloe vera; honey;algae extract and their combinations..;
[0101] In certain embodiments, suitable solvents that can be used according to the invention can be selected from monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin.
[0102] In various embodiments, the at least one humectant, solvent, or combination thereof, is present from about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition, and in some embodiments, from about 2% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, at about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one humectant, solvent, or combination thereof, the combination thereof being present in the composition at a concentration of about 1% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, at about 5% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.
[0103] Thus, in various embodiments, each or a combination of at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in a composition according to the invention at about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to about 20 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween. Optional additives.
[0104] The composition may also comprise at least one additive used in the cosmetic field which does not alter the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as perfumes, preservatives / antimicrobials (for example, chlorphenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate and caprylyl glycol); active ingredients (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, vitamins, panthenol, tocopherol); oil-soluble active ingredients (for example, vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E) and emollients; coloring matters / pigments; essential oils; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing, chelating, or pH-regulating agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, EDTA, and sodium hydroxide) and combinations thereof.
[0105] In some particular examples, the oily phase may further comprise oil-soluble actives selected from the group consisting of vitamin E, vitamin A, beta-carotene, retinol, resveratrol, derivatives thereof and combinations thereof. And in some particular examples, the aqueous phase may further comprise water-soluble actives selected from the group consisting of vitamin C, niacinamide, their derivatives and their combinations.
[0106] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one additive selected from the group consisting of pH regulators, chelating agents, skin care actives, preservatives, fillers, powders, fragrances, colorants, pigments, and combinations thereof. In some particular embodiments, the composition may include at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, chromium oxide greens, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene (beta-carotene or other provitamin A carotenoid or retinol), citric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0107] Although the optional additives are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used if suitable for a cosmetic composition.
[0108] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the composition according to the invention may be present in a range of from about 0.0001% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.15% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5% and, in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange by weight, based of the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention..
[0109] Therefore, any active or combination of actives and additives may be present, each or the combination being present in an amount of about 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent by weight, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween.
[0110] The examples below according to the invention are given for illustrative purposes and without limitation. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The quantities are, unless otherwise stated, given in % by weight. EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1: Compositions
[0111] Various representative embodiments of inventive compositions and com- comparatives are illustrated here.
[0112] [Table 1]
[0113] Inventive Compositions 1-2 and Comparative Compositions 1-3 Ingredient Invl Inv 2 Comp 1 Comp 2 Comp 3 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 3.00 3.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Persea Gratis sima (avocado) oil 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 Squalane 6.50 6.50 5.00 6.50 Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 Propanediol 1.60 5.00 1.60 1.60 *Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.80 0.80 Sodium Chloride, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Salicylic Acid, Chromium Oxide Greens, Sodium PCA 1.68 Copper Gluconate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Salicylic Acid, Chromium Oxide Greens, Sodium PCA 1.69 1.69 1.69 Sodium Hydroxide 0.025 0.03 Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Propylene Glycol, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Tridecyl Stearate (and) Tridecyl Trimellitate (and) Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Salicylate 23.8 . Isodecyl, P-Anisic Acid, Copper PCA, Beta-Carotene, Sodium PCA Isopropyl Isostearate 1.50 Tocopherol, Beta-Carotene, Caffeine 0.61 0.61 Tocopherol, Beta-Carotene, Citric Acid, Caffeine 0.66 0.66 Water 75.80 72.40 72.19 76.74 76.62
[0114] * The glutamic acid derivative is 47.5% active
[0115] Comparative Compositions 1 to 4 were employed with the Inventive Compositions in studies as shown in the examples below, wherein Comp 1 has a different general formulation and does not contain the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier and comprises a different emulsifier, is free of propanediol and is free of glutamate or derivative. Comparative Compositions 2 and 3 have a similar base to Inventive Compositions 1 and 2 but are free of glutamate or derivative.
[0116] In preparing the exemplary inventive compositions, the ingredients of the aqueous phase (A) are mixed separately from the ingredients of the oily phase (B) which are mixed under heating and then added batchwise to the aqueous phase and mixed before being subjected to viscosity measurement.
[0117] In a representative embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate present at about 1.35%; tetrasodium glutamate diacetate present at about 0.8%; propanediol present at about 1.6% or about 5%; Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) butter present at about 3%, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax present at about 0.1%, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) oil present at about 3.5%, squalane present at about 6.5%, more generally, each present from about 0.1% to about 23%; water present from about 70% to about 76%, and glycerin present at about 5%, all amounts by weight of the composition.The composition also comprises sodium dehydroacetate, salicylic acid, chromium oxide greens, sodium PCA, copper gluconate, sodium chloride, tocopherol, caffeine, beta-carotene and citric acid. The composition is a creamy water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol and (b) an oil phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid or a derivative thereof, and said at least one . at least one oil. The composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of said at least one polyglyceryl ester of between about 45 and about 70. In some embodiments, the glutamic acid or a derivative thereof may be in the oil phase or in the aqueous phase. In embodiments in which the glutamic acid comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, the tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is in the aqueous phase. EXAMPLE 2: Freeze-thaw stability
[0118] Referring to TABLE 1, the inventive and comparative compositions presented were exposed to 10 freeze-thaw cycles of -20°C / +25°C.
[0119] Only the inventive Compositions are stable under these conditions.
[0120] Comparative Compositions 2 and 3, both devoid of glutamate or derivative, showed minor separation. Comparative Composition 1 devoid of the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, propanediol and glutamate or derivative, showed separation. EXAMPLE 3: Heat stability
[0121] Referring again to TABLE 1, the inventive and comparative Compositions presented were exposed for 2 months at 25°C and 45°C.
[0122] Comparative Composition 1 lacking the polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, propanediol and glutamate or derivative showed separation under conditions of 45°C. This formulation also showed separation during a longer term evaluation at room temperature (approximately 6 months).
[0123] Comparative Composition 2, devoid of glutamate or derivative, did not show separation under conditions at 45°C; however, it was not stable due to the softening of the texture which became a lotion and no longer a substantially thick cream.
[0124] EXAMPLE 4: Quantization of the transition texture
[0125] Rheology studies were conducted to quantify the unique transition texture of the compositions of the invention. The tested compositions were evaluated at their initial time point as well as after 2 months for stability at 25°C and 45°C and for breakage and rheological properties. Comparative Composition 1 without polyglyceryl ester emulsifier, propanediol or glutamate or derivative exhibited softening over time and earlier separation, resulting in its eventual separation instability as shown in Examples 2 and 3. The inventive Compositions exhibited stability over time and maintained their initial breakage point and rheological properties over time. Inventive Composition 1, with the least amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, exhibited separation at a higher stress (i.e., requiring a longer friction time before breakage) than Inventive Composition 2 with a greater amount of glycol. This study demonstrated that in a composition according to the invention, propanediol can be used to adjust the breakage point of a composition. Thus, an inventive composition can be designed to require more or less friction of the composition during application before the emulsion thins and releases the aqueous phase, wherein a greater amount of propanediol allows for an earlier transition by requiring less stress for transformation compared to the same composition having a lesser amount of propanediol applied with the same force or stress.
[0126] While the invention has been described with reference to disclosed embodiments, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements herein without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the invention without departing from the essential scope thereof. Accordingly, it is understood that the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out the invention but that the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.
[0127] The articles "a" and "an" as used herein mean one or more when applied to any feature of the embodiments of the present invention described in the specifications and in the claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless a limitation is specifically indicated. The article "the" preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases denotes a specified particular feature or features and may have a singular or plural connotation depending on the context in which it is used. The adjective "all" denotes one, some, or all, regardless of quantity.
[0128] “At least one,” as used herein, means one or more, including two or more two and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0129] The transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "composed of", when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended form, define the scope of the claim with respect to the elements or steps of additional unrecited claims, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or open-ended and does not exclude any additional element, method, step or material not enumerated. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claim and, ultimately, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material(s). The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps or materials and to those which do not significantly affect the basic and novel feature(s) of the claimed invention. All materials and methods described herein which embody the present invention may, in other embodiments, be more specifically defined by any transitional terms such as "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "composed of".
[0130] The terms "free from" and "devoid of" indicate that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the composition, generally 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The term "substantially free from" means that, while it is preferable that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible for very small amounts of the excluded material to be present in the composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition. Notably, "substantially free from" means that the excluded material may be present in the composition in an amount of less than about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0131] The term "about" means within 10% of the stated number (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% - 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% - 2.2%).
[0132] All percentages and ratios are, unless otherwise indicated, calculated by weight. All percentages are, unless otherwise indicated, calculated based on the total composition. In general, unless otherwise expressly indicated herein, “weight” or “amount,” as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient, refers to the amount of raw material comprising the ingredient, wherein the raw material may be described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient’s activity. Accordingly, the weight percentage of an active in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, wherein the final percentage of the active depends on the weight percentage of active in the raw material.
[0133] The terms "weight percent" and "weight %" may be used interchangeably and mean a percentage by weight, based on the total weight of a composition, article, or material, unless otherwise indicated with respect to, for example, a phase or system that is a component of a composition, article, or material. All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include subranges and amounts using any disclosed point as the endpoint. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%," is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5%,” “2% to 10%,” and so on. A given range of “about 1% to 10%” is intended to have the term “about” which modifies both the 1% and 10% endpoints. Furthermore, a range is intended to include the endpoints of the range and all numbers within the range, unless otherwise specified. Furthermore, it is understood that where an amount of a component is given, it is intended, unless specifically stated otherwise, to mean the amount of active ingredient.
[0134] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters defining the broad scope of the invention are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values indicated in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of the present invention without being limiting.
[0135] All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are incorporated herein by reference, and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between the present invention and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present invention shall prevail.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase, the creamy emulsion comprising: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; v. water and, vi. optionally one or more additives, the composition excluding mineral and organic UV filters, the creamy emulsion comprising (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one glycol or diol, the aqueous phase being present in a range of from about 75% to about 95% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, and (b) an oily phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and said at least one oil, and wherein the creamy emulsion exhibits rupture and release of the aqueous phase upon rubbing application of the composition onto a substrate,and wherein the composition exhibits stability at temperatures in a range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, stability evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of friction on a substrate.,
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said at least one polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearoyl dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and combinations thereof, and wherein glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is selected from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, salts thereof and combinations thereof, and wherein said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Co-pernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, squalane and combinations thereof; and wherein said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is selected from the group consisting of propanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, decylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexanediol and combinations thereof.
3. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the above claims, said at least one polyglyceryl ester being present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2%, by weight of the composition.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the above claims, wherein glutamic acid or a derivative thereof is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight of the composition.
5. The cosmetic composition of any one of the above claims, wherein said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the above claims, said at least one oil being present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 23%, by weight of the composition.
7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the above claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is present in an amount in a range of about 0.01% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, whereby, under a given application stress, the creamy emulsion exhibits faster breakdown and release from the aqueous phase as the amount of cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol is increased within the range.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the above claims, wherein the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising (a) the aqueous phase and (b) the oily phase, one of the aqueous phase and the oily phase also comprising glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and wherein the composition has a ratio of the total weight of the aqueous phase to the total weight of said at least one polyglyceryl ester in the composition is in a range of about 45 to about 70.
9. A method of applying a cosmetic composition with water phase breakage, comprising: a. selecting a cosmetic composition comprising: a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase, the creamy emulsion comprising i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil and v. water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof and b. applying the composition to a keratin substrate by contacting the composition and rubbing in a circular motion such that the creamy emulsion exhibits rupture and release of the aqueous phase, wherein the composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters, wherein the creamy emulsion comprises (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one glycol or diol, the aqueous phase being present in a range of from about 75% to about 95% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, and (b) an oily phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester, in some embodiments glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, and said at least one oil,and wherein the composition demonstrates stability at temperatures in a range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions that range from about -20°C to about 25°C, stability evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of friction on a substrate.,
10. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a creamy emulsion having an internal aqueous phase in an oily phase, the process comprising: a. the supply of ingredients which exclude mineral and organic anti-UV active ingredients, the ingredients supplied including: i. at least one polyglyceryl ester; ii. glutamic acid or a derivative thereof; iii. at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol; iv. at least one oil; v. water, or water and a water-based moisturizing agent or solvent or a combination thereof and, vi. possibly one or more additives and b. combining the ingredients provided to provide (a) an aqueous phase which comprises water, or water and a water-based moisturizer or solvent or a combination thereof, and said at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, and (b) an oily phase comprising said at least one polyglyceryl ester and said at least one oil, wherein glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, is present in one of the aqueous and oil phases, wherein the aqueous phase is present in a range of about 75% to about 95% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, and wherein the composition demonstrates stability at temperatures in a range of about 5°C to about 45°C for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions ranging from about -20°C to about 25°C, stability evidenced by the absence of separation of the water and oil phases in the absence of rubbing on a substrate.