Lipid cosmetic composition intended to be integrated into a cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care

Abstract

The present invention relates to a lipid cosmetic composition comprising cerides, ceramides, triglycerides and phospholipids.The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for skin care and keratin fibers comprising a step of mixing said lipid cosmetic composition with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, the cosmetic composition for skin care and keratin fibers obtained by said method, and the use of said cosmetic composition for skin care and keratin fibers preferably intended for babies' and children's skin to allow, after topical application: the strengthening of the skin barrier, the prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort preferably being itching, heating, a tingling sensation and / or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and / or the restoration of skin hydration.

Description

Title of the invention: Lipid cosmetic composition intended to be integrated into a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers

[0001] The present invention relates to a lipid cosmetic composition comprising cerides, ceramides, triglycerides and phospholipids.The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for the care of skin and keratin fibers comprising a step of mixing said lipid cosmetic composition with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, the cosmetic composition for the care of skin and keratin fibers obtained by said method, and the use of said cosmetic composition for the care of skin and keratin fibers preferably intended for the skin of babies and children to allow, after topical application: the strengthening of the skin barrier, the prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort preferably being itching, heating, a tingling sensation and / or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and / or the restoration of skin hydration. Prior art

[0002] Since birth, our skin requires special care to maintain the integrity of our skin barrier. Indeed, the skin of children, and more particularly that of newborns, is very sensitive, particularly at the level of the upper skin layer, called the stratum corneum, which is extremely thin and practically devoid of fat.

[0003] Children's skin is in fact extremely sensitive to external aggressions, in fact, it pulls, stings, itches and reacts excessively to everything, particularly in cold weather and if it is heavily exposed to the sun.

[0004] Indeed, children's skin is hypersensitive to variations in temperature and the humidity level of the ambient air. This dehydration is linked to an exaggerated Transepidermal Water Loss. Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is the natural evaporation of water from the skin during the natural cycle of water migration in the skin.

[0005] Thus, there is an imperative need to have cosmetic compositions capable of preventing disorders such as itching, heating, tingling sensation and / or tightness sensation and preventing skin dehydration and / or restoring skin hydration while maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, to overcome the aforementioned technical problem.

[0006] In addition, although this is not necessarily recommended, parents may tend to wash their baby daily. One of the problems associated with washing with soaps or surfactants is the possible modification of the skin's characteristics, particularly its pH.

[0007] Similarly, with repeated washing, the child's skin is weakened and defatted by existing care products on the market, which leads to problems of dehydrated skin with numerous undesirable effects such as flaking, itching, which can even lead to the appearance of eczema patches.

[0008] Consequently, a need has arisen to provide a lipid cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers, in particular the skin of babies and young children, by providing them with good hydration, maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, and / or protecting the epidermis of children against external aggressions while not using products considered undesirable for children and more particularly for the skin of infants and newborns.

[0009] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has demonstrated that a lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention addresses this technical problem.

[0010] In fact, the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular added to at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers which acts as an alternative to the products found on the market for the care of the skin and keratin fibers of children and in particular babies, with good hydration of the skin, maintenance of the integrity of the skin barrier and / or protection of the epidermis of children against external aggressions.

[0011] This lipid cosmetic composition, in particular added to at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers which is also part of prevention, which is not the case in most care products intended for children and more particularly for babies, found on the market.

[0012] Indeed, certain creams, lotions, balms etc. known on the market make it possible to treat pain, redness and itching after the appearance of the latter. The lipid cosmetic composition and the cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care according to the invention have a preventive action, in order to avoid the appearance of these undesirable and harmful effects for a baby's young skin, in the sense that they prevent visual and superficial skin conditions of the child's epidermis.

[0013] In addition, certain cosmetic compositions found on the market include sulfates and / or silicone and / or mineral oils and / or paraben and / or at least a synthetic fragrance. Not only are these ingredients increasingly rejected by parents in cosmetic compositions intended for their children, but it is important to maintain the integrity of a newborn's skin barrier, if possible, not to moisturize it with products containing one of the aforementioned active ingredients. It is recognized by some that their action can be harmful to the skin of the child and in particular of the baby, and cause itching, redness and other undesirable effects.

[0014] The applicant has therefore taken these issues into account by producing a range of skin and keratin fiber care products which can be used at any age and on any skin type and preferably intended to be used for children and in particular for babies, which offers a lipid cosmetic composition intended for the cosmetic manufacture of a cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care with a view to strengthening the skin barrier, preventing visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort preferably being itching, heating, a tingling sensation and / or a feeling of tightness, preventing skin dehydration and / or restoring skin hydration, preferably offering a natural product, without silicone, without mineral oils,paraben-free and synthetic fragrance-free to be better tolerated by children's skin, especially babies'.

[0015] According to a first subject of the invention, the applicant has developed a lipid cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least one combination of cerides, ceramides, triglycerides, phospholipids. This lipid cosmetic composition is also called hereinafter "booster" in the sense that it can improve the skin and keratin fiber care performance of an existing cosmetic composition.

[0016] The ingredients of said lipid cosmetic composition are combined in effective amounts. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect, which can be determined by a person skilled in the art. Preferred amounts are indicated in the remainder of this text for each ingredient of said cosmetic composition.

[0017] Thus the first subject of the invention preferably relates to a lipid cosmetic composition comprising: - Between 10% and 20% by weight of the composition of cerides, preferably between 12 and 16%; - Between 4% and 20% by weight of the ceramide composition, preferably between 5 and 18%; - Between 10% and 40% by weight of the composition of triglycerides, preferably 25 to 35%; and - Between 4% and 20% by weight of the phospholipid composition, preferably 6 and 10%.

[0018] For the purposes of the invention, the term "lipid cosmetic composition" means a cosmetic composition, i.e. intended for topical application to the skin, mainly composed of lipids, which is preferably intended for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers. Preferably, said lipid cosmetic composition is diluted and / or dispersed in vegetable oils or glycols. In fact, the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention is mixed either with at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient, or with an existing cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers, in order to increase its results in terms of, for example, hydration, repair of the skin barrier, etc. The applicant particularly wanted to integrate a lipid cosmetic composition into a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers to restore the action of intercorneocyte lipids.Indeed, corneocytes, which are apoptotic cells of the horny layer resulting from the maturation process known as "keratinization" or terminal differentiation of the epidermis, are the cells constituting the largest part of the outer layer of the epidermis in humans and are trapped in a lipid matrix.

[0019] For the purposes of the invention, the term "corneocytes" means cells that are surrounded by lipids organized in sheets that play a fundamental role as a dynamic hydrophobic barrier. They are the site of sequences of absorption and desorption of water molecules within the intercorneocyte spaces. Essentially synthesized by keratinocytes and resulting from the secretion of lamellar bodies, the lipids of the stratum corneum have a very specific composition. The main lipids present in the stratum corneum are ceramides (45-50% by mass), cholesterol (25% by mass) and free fatty acids (10-15% by mass). It has been observed that the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention presents an alternative to the apolar lipids found on the surface of the epidermis of babies at birth.

[0020] For the purposes of the invention, the term "intercorneocyte lipids" means lipids surrounding the corneocytes having an arrangement of superimposed lamellae. They are thus arranged perpendicular to the surface of the corneocytes, parallel to each other, on either side of the adjacent horny envelopes. In addition, the lipids of the stratum corneum (horny layer) show a broad distribution in polarity. Apolar lipids predominate in the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention, such as cerides and triglycerides, whereas the lipids composing the stratum corneum are rather polar. In addition, the horny layer contains said cerides and said triglycerides but in small quantities.

[0021] By "cerides" is meant according to the invention, a homolipid very insoluble in water, chemically inert. These are esters of fatty acids and long-chain aliphatic alcohols (fatty alcohol). They are generally primary alcohols, with an even number of carbons, saturated and unbranched. The length of the carbon chains varies from 14 to 30 carbon atoms for the fatty acid and from 16 to 36 carbon atoms for the fatty alcohol. Said wax according to the invention is of plant origin, that is to say coming from the covering of the leaves. The dominant ester is constituted by palmitic acid and myricyl alcohol (CH3-(CH2)28-CH2OH) followed by myricyl hypogeate (hypogeic acid is a C16:1 A 2).

[0022] Preferably according to the invention, said cerides are chosen from fatty alcohol esters and fatty acids, preferably jojoba oil.

[0023] For the purposes of the invention, the term "ceramides" is understood to mean structurally heterogeneous and complex lipids that are essential components of the stratum corneum. Indeed, ceramides are present in a proportion of between 45 and 50% by mass of the lipids present in the stratum corneum. Their skeleton consists of a sphingoid base linked to a fatty acid by an amide bond. Depending on their chemical structure, the sphingoid bases can be of four types: sphingosine (S), dihydrosphingosine (DS), phytosphingosine (P) and 6-hydroxy sphingosine (H). These molecules are found in large quantities in cell membranes, where they are notably part of the constitution of sphingomyelins. The fatty acids that constitute them generally have an even number (from 16 to 24) of carbon atoms, are saturated or monounsaturated, and are often α-hydroxylated. Ceramides help form the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated.Indeed, a deficiency in ceramides can be the cause of skin problems, eczema, psoriasis and rosacea. UV rays and temperature variations are also factors impacting the quantity of ceramides, and can alter the skin barrier, thus contributing to dry skin. A supply of ceramides thus contributes to the restoration of the skin barrier, the hydration of the skin and the protection of the epidermis against aggressive factors. The ceramides used according to the present invention are preferably extracted from plants.

[0024] Preferably according to the invention, said ceramides are chosen from AP, EOS, EOP, NG / NS, NP, EOH and / or AH ceramides, preferably NS / NG and / or NP ceramides.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "triglycerides" means glycerides in which the three hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified by fatty acids. They are the main constituents of vegetable oils and butters and are a source of ATP through the release of fatty acids.

[0026] Preferably according to the invention, said triglycerides are provided by vegetable butter and / or vegetable oil, preferably chosen from vegetable butter of mango, murumuru seeds, cocoa, cupuaçu, olive, shea, avocado and / or sweet almond vegetable oil, preferably cocoa butter, shea butter and / or sweet almond oil.

[0027] For the purposes of the invention, the term "vegetable butter" means solid and creamy fatty substances which have the same properties as vegetable oils, namely properties of nutrition of the upper layer of the epidermis. This vegetable butter makes it possible to mimic the effect of triglycerides by providing more emollience, hydration and leaving a rich film on the surface of the epidermis. In addition, vegetable butters are rich in saturated fatty acids, in particular palmitic and stearic acid.

[0028] According to the present invention, the term "mango vegetable butter" means a butter-type composition obtained by mechanical pressure and then filtration by physical processes without solvent or chemical raw material, from the almond of the mango kernel (Mangifera indica).

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "vegetable butter from murumuru seeds" means a butter-type composition obtained from mechanical pressure on the kernel of murumuru fruits (Astrocaryum murumuru).

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cupuaçu vegetable butter" means a butter-type composition obtained from a first cold pressing of cupuaçu beans (Theobroma grandifolium).

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "olive vegetable butter" means a butter made from olive oil, preferably cold-pressed, and a fraction of olive oil composed of triglycerides of palmitic and stearic acids and rich in olive unsaponifiables.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "vegetable cocoa butter" means a butter-type composition obtained from a first cold pressing, without filtration and without deodorization of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao).

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “vegetable shea butter” means a butter-type composition obtained by mechanical pressure of sorted nuts (Butyrospermum parkii).

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "vegetable oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature, extracted from an oleaginous plant, i.e. a plant whose seeds, nuts, almonds or fruits contain lipids. The main constituents of vegetable oil are mainly triglycerides, phospholipids, free fatty acids, phenolic compounds and antioxidants. Topically, vegetable oil allows the restoration of skin homeostasis.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sweet almond vegetable oil" means an oil-type composition obtained from a first cold pressing of almonds from the fruit (Prunus dulcis).

[0036] For the purposes of the invention, the term "phospholipids" means a lipid containing a phosphoric acid group as a mono or diester. This family includes in particular phosphatidic acids and phosphoglycerides. These are amphiphilic lipids, i.e. consisting of a polar (hydrophilic) "head" and two aliphatic (hydrophobic) "tails". Although most phospholipids are phosphoglycerides, whose head is organized around a glycerol-3-phosphate residue esterified by a polar molecule, and the two tails are the aliphatic chains of two fatty acids, the other phospholipids according to the present invention are sphingolipids, which are structurally derived from sphingosine, sphingomyelins or ceramides and not from glycerol, sphingosine being a constituent of one of the two aliphatic tails mentioned above. Preferably, the phospholipids used according to the present invention are extracted from plants.Particularly preferably, the phospholipids are extracted from rapeseed and / or sunflower.

[0037] Preferably according to the invention, said phospholipids are chosen from lecithins, preferably non-hydrogenated, native and / or de-oiled lecithins.

[0038] A second subject of the invention relates to the process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers comprising at least one step of mixing the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent.

[0039] Preferably, the cosmetic composition for care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention consists of 1 to 99% of the lipid cosmetic composition and from 99% to 1% of at least one cosmetically acceptable agent. More preferably, the cosmetic composition for care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention consists of 1 to 10% of the lipid cosmetic composition and from 99% to 90% of at least one cosmetically acceptable agent. In a particularly preferred manner, the cosmetic composition for care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention consists of 1 to 5% of the lipid cosmetic composition and from 99% to 95% of at least one cosmetically acceptable agent.

[0040] For the purposes of the invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable agent" means a compound which may or may not have an activity in the context of cosmetic use. The agents used in the context of this invention are intended for topical use. In the context of this invention, the agent is, for example, chosen from water, humectants, emollients, lamellar phase emulsifiers, non-ionic mild foaming agents, film-forming agents, antimicrobials or soothing active ingredients. According to the present invention, said at least one cosmetically acceptable agent may be a mixture of cosmetically acceptable agents, constituting a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers, to which the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention will be added.

[0041] By "water" is meant according to the present invention preferably distilled water, mineral water or Aloe Vera water.

[0042] For the purposes of the invention, the term "humectant" means a cosmetic substance which absorbs water or helps another substance to retain moisture at the skin level; in fact, the humectant agent makes it possible to attract and retain water from the dermis inside the epidermal cells.

[0043] For the purposes of the invention, the term "emollient" means a cosmetic substance that allows biological tissues to relax. The emollient agent helps reduce dehydration or dryness. Emollient agents smooth, soften and protect the surface of the skin by filling the microfissures that form between the cells of the superficial layers of the epidermis. They are sometimes referred to as restructuring agents. They also prevent water evaporation. By their constitution, essentially composed of natural lipids, they are capable of penetrating more deeply into the epidermis and playing an active role there.

[0044] For the purposes of the invention, the term "emulsifier" means a molecule which, within its structure, has a duality of polarity, in the sense that one part is hydrophilic and the other is rather hydrophobic. Thus, in an emulsion, the emulsifiers will be placed all around the droplets and the emulsion will thus gain in stability. The emulsifier thus makes it possible to bind the water (aqueous phase) to the fatty substance, given that water and oil do not mix. The two ingredients repel each other, so that they can be transformed into a cream, it is therefore necessary to provide it with the binder, the main role of the emulsifier.

[0045] For the purposes of the invention, the term "non-ionic gentle foaming agent" means a natural surfactant that can form a more or less abundant foam to carry away dust, unwanted particles, excess sebum and dirt with it in order to wash the epidermis after application of the cleansing care composition to the skin. Non-ionic surfactants are the most natural surfactants on the market today.

[0046] For the purposes of the invention, the term "film-forming agent" means an agent that reduces PIE (Transepidermal Water Loss) by preventing water evaporation. Film-forming agents do not penetrate the epidermis. They act on the surface by strengthening or replacing the hydrolipidic film and effectively slow down water evaporation. They are also called occlusive agents. They belong to two main families: hydrophobic (or fatty) film-forming agents and hydrophilic film-forming agents.

[0047] For the purposes of the invention, the term "antimicrobial" means an active ingredient that allows cosmetic products to be preserved by eliminating the presence of bacteria in the cosmetic composition of the invention. In fact, the antimicrobial agent helps prevent the risk of bacterial contamination of the consumer.

[0048] For the purposes of the invention, the term "soothing active ingredient" means a cosmetic active ingredient that helps maintain the physiological balance of the skin, particularly in babies, who have more fragile skin that is prone to irritation.

[0049] A third subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers obtained by the process according to the invention comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable agent chosen from water, preferably in a sufficient quantity for and / or a humectant, preferably in an amount of between 5% and 10% by total weight of the composition and / or an emollient, preferably in an amount of between 1% and 30% by total weight of the composition and / or an emulsifier, preferably in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by total weight of the composition and / or at least one mild non-ionic foaming agent, preferably in an amount of between 2.5% and 7.5% by total weight of the composition and / or a film-forming agent, preferably in an amount of between 0.2% and 2% by total weight of the composition and / or an antimicrobial, preferably in an amount of between 0,5% and 1% by total weight of the composition and / or a soothing active ingredient, preferably in an amount of between 0.05% and 0.5% by total weight of the composition.

[0050] Preferably according to the invention, said cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care is in the form of a cream, preferably a moisturizing cream or a diaper cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse, an aerosol, a stick, a washing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous hydroalcoholic or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel and / or an anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid product.

[0051] For the purposes of the invention, the term "ointment" means an ointment with a pasty consistency, a fatty or resinous substance, of soft, pasty consistency, used for various purposes. An ointment is similar in consistency to a balm.

[0052] According to the invention, the term “cream” means a cosmetic emulsion originating from the mixture of an aqueous phase and an oily phase.

[0053] According to the invention, the term “serum” means a liquid or gelled cosmetic product comprising a high concentration of active ingredient in order to deliver it quickly.

[0054] By "emulsion" is meant according to the present invention, a pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents) or an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion or in a gel or a water-in-oil-in-water multiple emulsion.

[0055] For the purposes of the invention, the term "moisturizing cream composition" means a cosmetic composition which moisturizes the skin and prevents its dehydration by reconstituting the hydrolipidic film, which provides natural protection for the skin, removed by soap during cleaning. The cosmetic moisturizing cream composition further comprises, according to the present invention, water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a film-forming agent and an antimicrobial.

[0056] By "diaper cream composition" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a cosmetic composition designed to take care of the baby's bottom from birth, it prevents redness and other skin irritations in the bottom. This rich and thick cream has a dual function: to help repair irritations already present and to soothe thanks to its anti-inflammatory action. The cosmetic composition of diaper cream comprises according to the present invention in addition water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a film-forming agent, an antimicrobial and a soothing active ingredient.

[0057] For the purposes of the invention, the term "detangling / styling spray composition" means a composition used to facilitate the tidying of tangled hair or hair containing knots. The detangling cosmetic composition acts by means of a lubricating film which smooths the hair scales and coats it. Most often, the detangling / styling spray cosmetic composition is marketed in the form of a spray-diffuser. The detangling / styling spray cosmetic composition also comprises, according to the present invention, water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a film-forming agent and an antimicrobial.

[0058] For the purposes of the invention, the term "washing gel composition" means a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel for cleaning the skin and keratin fibers by removing pollution particles, dust, and any other dirt present on the latter. The cosmetic washing gel composition according to the invention further comprises water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, at least one mild non-ionic foaming agent, a film-forming agent, and an antimicrobial.

[0059] Preferably according to the invention, said lipid cosmetic composition preferably consists of 95%, preferably 98% and particularly preferably 100% ingredients of plant origin.

[0060] Preferably according to the invention, said cosmetic composition for care of the skin and keratin fibers preferably consists of 95%, preferably 98% and particularly preferably 100% ingredients of plant origin.

[0061] For the purposes of the invention, the term “ingredients of plant origin” means an active ingredient extracted from a plant.

[0062] A fourth object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers which, after topical application, allows: the strengthening of the skin barrier, the prevention of af visual and superficial skin disorders in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort preferably being itching, heating, a tingling sensation and / or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and / or the restoration of skin hydration.

[0063] For the purposes of the invention, the term "non-therapeutic" means a cosmetic application not intended to treat a patient. In fact, the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention does not act as a medicament for the treatment of various diseases such as acne, xerosis, psoriasis or eczema, but makes it possible to improve the superficial visual appearance of the skin.

[0064] For the purposes of the invention, the term "topical application" means the application of the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention to the surface of the skin, and the penetration of the latter into the horny layer, otherwise called stratum corneum, constituting the first thickness on the surface of the skin, the most superficial layer of the epidermis.

[0065] For the purposes of the invention, the term "strengthening the skin barrier" means protecting and reconstructing the skin barrier by maintaining the hydration of the skin, which will strengthen its hydrolipidic film.

[0066] By "prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, the prevention of a skin disorder linked to dehydration of the skin, at the level of the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum otherwise called the horny layer. Said cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention makes it possible to improve the visual appearance of the skin.

[0067] By "feeling of discomfort" is meant according to the present invention, an itching, a heating, a tingling sensation and / or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and / or the restoration of skin hydration.

[0068] A fifth subject of the invention relates to a composition for use in the treatment of acne, xerosis, psoriasis or even eczema.

[0069] For the purposes of the present invention, "acne" is understood to mean a disease present in infants, causing excess sebum which results in the appearance of small white spots or comedones the size of a pinhead and small red spots, papules. There is then an inflammation of the skin which can appear on the cheeks, forehead, chin, nose, behind the ears and on the scalp.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “xerosis” means a disease presenting in infants which is characterized by very dry, tight and tingling skin which can be very uncomfortable for the baby.

[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "psoriasis" means a skin disease present in infants which is characterized by the presence of red plaques called "erythema" covered with an adherent crust called "scale". The plaques are well defined and affect the body in a relatively symmetrical manner. As in adults, there are elective sites where the plaques develop: the elbows, knees, lower back and scalp in particular. Unlike eczema, psoriasis plaques do not itch or itch very little.

[0072] According to the present invention, "eczema" is understood to mean a skin disease present in infants which is characterized by the presence of dry or very dry skin, redness appearing in patches and can quickly become covered with small vesicles which will ooze, and when the oozing dries, this gives way to scabs. Throughout the course of the disease, the patches itch the child and give him a strong urge to scratch, thereby contributing to the creation of scabs on the surface of the skin.

[0073] Preferably according to the invention, said non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers is intended for the skin of babies and children.

[0074] According to an alternative embodiment, the invention relates to a kit comprising the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention (also called “booster”) and a composition comprising cosmetically acceptable ingredients and intended to receive the addition of said lipid cosmetic composition “booster”.The mixture of the two compositions of the kit (lipid "booster" composition and at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient) makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers which is preferably in the form of a cream, preferably a moisturizing cream or a diaper cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse, an aerosol, a stick, a washing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous hydroalcoholic or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel and / or an anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid product.

[0075] According to an alternative embodiment, the method of the invention may comprise the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition available on the market and added with the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention. This addition of the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention may typically be done in proportions of 1 to 99%, preferably of 1 to 20%, preferably of 1 to 10%, particularly preferably of 1 at 5% and makes it possible to confer or increase the hydration, dehydration prevention, and skin disorder prevention characteristics of said cosmetic composition available on the market. The lipid cosmetic composition of the invention acts as a booster on the hydrating properties of classic baby skin care ranges and keratin fibers.

[0076] By "cosmetic composition available on the market" is meant according to the invention, preferably a classic moisturizing cream composition or a diaper cream composition or a detangling / styling spray composition or a cleansing care composition in the form of a gel, cream, lotion, in liquid or solid form, marketed to consumers.

[0077] In the description and in the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight and the ranges of values ​​expressed in the form "between ... and..." include the specified lower and upper limits. The examples below are presented for illustrative purposes and do not limit the scope of the invention. Examples

[0078] Example 1: Test of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0079] The lipid cosmetic composition is packaged in glass packaging.

[0080] The lipid cosmetic composition of this example comprises the following formulation: • 20% jojoba oil in total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; • 20% of ceramide NP in total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; • 10% mango vegetable butter in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid; • 30% sweet almond oil in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid; and • 20% rapeseed lecithin in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid.

[0081] The “booster” lipid cosmetic composition is incorporated into a 10% cosmetic formulation tested on skin explants which are previously washed and treated with said lipid cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0082] The tests are carried out in comparison with a conventional cosmetic skin care composition, existing on the market. Said cosmetic skin care composition is a moisturizing cream.

[0083] For the application, 2 mg / cm2 of the lipid cosmetic composition are spread on the skin explants according to the surface of the epidermis to be covered.

[0084] Similarly, the same application with the same quantities is made with a moisturizing and protective baby cream of the MixaTm brand on skin explants.

[0085] The composition of the moisturizing and protective cream for babies from the MixaTm brand is as follows: AQUA / WATER • CYCLOHEXASILOXANE • CETYL ALCOHOL • GLYCERIN • GLYCERYL STEARATE • PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM / MINERAL OIL • HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL / SUNFLOWER SEED OIL • BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER / SHEA BUTTER • PEG-40 STEARATE • CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE • CITRIC ACID • GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL • MYRISTYL ALCOHOL • PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL / SWEET ALMOND OIL • SORBITAN TRISTEARATE • STEARYL ALCOHOL • TOCOPHEROL • PERFUME / FRAGRANCE (FIL B189508 / 1).

[0086] It is also observed, in order to characterize through a certain number of parameters, • The appearance • The smell; • The color; • The texture; • The ease of spreading of said lipid cosmetic composition; • Skin softness after topical application; • Appearance of the skin after topical application; • The presence of a film after topical application: • Hydration and nutrition felt after topical application; • The reaction of the epidermis following topical application; • Observation of the possible appearance of redness, patches or other undesirable effects;

[0087] These parameters are measured for the lipid cosmetic composition using in particular a Tewamètre® which allows the TEWL to be measured, a parameter which provides information on the integrity of the skin barrier.

[0088] The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin for 30 seconds. Upon contact, the amount of evaporated water (g / h / m2) is measured.

[0089] High TEWL values ​​correspond to a large amount of water evaporated from the skin surface and, therefore, to a damaged skin barrier. A decrease in TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) is a very good indicator of improved skin barrier integrity.

[0090] In addition, corneometry is measured using a Corneometer® which provides information on the degree of hydration of the superficial layers of the skin (stratum corneum) by measuring its dielectric properties.

[0091] The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin. Upon contact, an electric field crosses the stratum corneum, and the constant di- electrical is then measured.

[0092] The value of the dielectric constant obtained (in arbitrary units) is directly proportional to the degree of hydration of the skin.

[0093] By these measurements, it is observed that the skin covered with the lipid cosmetic composition (booster) according to the invention is better hydrated and that the skin barrier has undergone less alteration (is better preserved) than the skin having been covered with a conventional skin care cosmetic composition, such as a moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the MixaTm brand, known on the market.

[0094] Example 2: Testing of a cosmetic skin care composition of the moisturizing emulsion type comprising 5% of “booster” lipid cosmetic composition.

[0095] The cosmetic skin care composition comprises the lipid "booster" composition for 5% by weight of the final composition and 95% of a composition containing two cosmetically acceptable agents, the latter being distilled water and an emulsifier.

[0096] The cosmetic skin care composition is packaged in glass packaging.

[0097] The cosmetic skin care composition of this example comprises 5% of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition of the following formula: • 20% jojoba oil in total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; • 20% of ceramide NP in total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; • 10% mango vegetable butter in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipidic; • 30% sweet almond oil in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid; and • 20% rapeseed lecithin in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid.

[0098] The lipid cosmetic composition is mixed with distilled water and an emulsifier. The lipid composition represents 5% by weight of the final skin care cosmetic composition, the distilled water represents 94% by weight of the skin care cosmetic composition and the glyceryl stearate citrate represents 1% by weight of the skin care cosmetic composition. The skin care cosmetic composition thus obtained is in the form of an emulsion.

[0099] The cosmetic skin care composition is tested on skin explants.

[0100] The tests are carried out in comparison with a conventional cosmetic skin care composition, existing on the market. Said cosmetic skin care composition is a moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the MixaTm brand.

[0101] The composition of the MixaTm brand moisturizing and protective baby cream is as follows: AQUA / WATER • CYCLOHEXASILOXANE • CETYL ALCOHOL • GLYCERIN • GLYCERYL STEARATE • PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM / MINERAL OIL • HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL / SUNFLOWER SEED OIL • BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER / SHEA BUTTER • PEG-40 STEARATE • CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE • CITRIC ACID • GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL • MYRISTYL ALCOHOL • PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL / SWEET ALMOND OIL • SORBITAN TRISTEARATE • STEARYL ALCOHOL • TOCOPHEROL • PARFUM / FRAGRANCE (FIL B189508 / 1).

[0102] For the application, 2 mg / cm2 of the cosmetic skin care composition are spread on the skin explants according to the surface of the epidermis to be covered.

[0103] Similarly, the same application with the same quantities is made with a moisturizing cream of the MixaTm brand on skin explants.

[0104] It is also observed, in order to characterize through a certain number of parameters, • The appearance • The smell; • The color; • The texture; • The ease of spreading of said cosmetic skin care composition; • Skin softness after topical application; • Appearance of the skin after topical application; • The presence of a film after topical application: • Hydration and nutrition felt after topical application; • The reaction of the epidermis following topical application; • Observation of the possible appearance of redness, patches or other undesirable effects;

[0105] These parameters are measured for the cosmetic skin care composition using in particular a Tewamètre® which makes it possible to measure the TEWL, a parameter which provides information on the integrity of the skin barrier.

[0106] The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin for 30 seconds. Upon contact, the amount of evaporated water (g / h / m2) is measured.

[0107] High TEWL values ​​correspond to a large amount of water evaporated from the skin surface and, therefore, to a damaged skin barrier. A decrease in TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) is a very good indicator of improved skin barrier integrity.

[0108] In addition, corneometry is measured using a Corneometer® which provides information on the degree of hydration of the superficial layers of the skin (stratum corneum) by measuring its dielectric properties.

[0109] The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin. When Upon contact, an electric field crosses the stratum corneum, and the dielectric constant is then measured.

[0110] The value of the dielectric constant obtained (in arbitrary units) is directly proportional to the degree of hydration of the skin.

[0111] By these measurements, it is observed that the skin covered with the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention combined with two cosmetically acceptable agents, namely distilled water and an emulsifier (glyceryl stearate citrate), is better hydrated and that the skin barrier is less damaged (is better preserved) than the skin covered with a moisturizing and protective cosmetic composition for babies of the MixaTm brand.

[0112] Example 31 Testing of a gel-type cosmetic skin care composition baby wash containing 10% lipid “booster” cosmetic composition.

[0113] The cosmetic skin care composition comprises the “booster” lipid composition for 10% by weight of the final composition and 90% of cosmetically acceptable agents, the latter being a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, at least one non-ionic mild foaming agent, an antimicrobial and a film-forming agent.

[0114] The cosmetic skin care composition is packaged in glass packaging.

[0115] The cosmetic skin care composition of this example comprises 10% of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition of the following formula: • 20% jojoba oil in total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; • 20% of ceramide NP in total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; • 10% mango vegetable butter in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid; • 30% sweet almond oil in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid; and • 20% rapeseed lecithin in total weight of the cosmetic composition lipid.

[0116] The “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention is associated with a cosmetic skin care composition comprising several cosmetically acceptable agents for 90% of the formulation of the final cosmetic skin care composition, namely: • 10% vegetable glycerin in total weight of the cosmetic composition of skin care; • 5% of plant-based lanolin substitute in total weight of the composition skin care cosmetics; • 3% of OLIVEM 1000 in total weight of the cosmetic care composition the skin; • 6% Coco Glucoside in total weight of the cosmetic care composition the skin; • 1% of beeswax in total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition skin ; • 1% of crowberry in total weight of the cosmetic care composition the skin; and • Water qsp, from the formulation of the final skin care cosmetic composition.

[0117] The cosmetic skin care composition is tested on skin explants which are washed with said cosmetic skin care composition.

[0118] The tests are carried out in comparison with a conventional cosmetic skin care composition, existing on the market. Said cosmetic skin care composition is a gentle, soap-free, foaming and cleansing gel from the ABCDerm range of the BiodermaTM brand.

[0119] The composition of the gentle, soap-free foaming and cleansing gel from the ABCDerm range of the BiodermaTm brand is as follows: AQUA / WATER / EAU; SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE; COCO-BETAINE; METHYLPROPANEDIOL; SODIUM CHLORIDE; PENTYLENE GLYCOL; PEG-90 GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE; LAURETH-2; CITRIC ACID; DISODIUM EDTA; SODIUM CITRATE; FRAGRANCE (PARFUM).

[0120] For the application, 2 mg / cm2 of the cosmetic skin care composition are spread on the skin explants according to the surface of the epidermis to be covered and then rinsed with water.

[0121] Similarly, the same application with the same quantities is made with the gentle, soap-free foaming and cleansing gel from the ABCDerm range of the BiodermaTm brand on skin explants.

[0122] It is also observed, in order to characterize through a certain number of parameters, • The appearance • The smell; • The color; • The texture; • The ease of spreading of said cosmetic skin care composition; • Skin softness after topical application; • Appearance of the skin after topical application; • The presence of a film after topical application: • Hydration and nutrition felt after topical application; • The reaction of the epidermis following topical application; • Observation of the possible appearance of redness, patches or other undesirable effects;

[0123] These parameters are measured for the cosmetic skin care composition using in particular a Tewamètre® which makes it possible to measure the TEWL, a parameter which provides information on the integrity of the skin barrier.

[0124] The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin for 30 seconds. Upon contact, the amount of evaporated water (g / h / m2) is measured.

[0125] High TEWL values ​​correspond to a large amount of water evaporated from the skin surface and, therefore, to a damaged skin barrier. A decrease in TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) is a very good indicator of improved skin barrier integrity.

[0126] In addition, corneometry is measured using a Corneometer® which provides information on the degree of hydration of the superficial layers of the skin (stratum corneum) by measuring its dielectric properties.

[0127] The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin. Upon contact, an electric field crosses the stratum corneum, and the dielectric constant is then measured.

[0128] The value of the dielectric constant obtained (in arbitrary units) is directly proportional to the degree of hydration of the skin.

[0129] By these measurements, it is observed that the skin washed with the baby washing gel type skin care composition is better hydrated and that the skin barrier undergoes less alteration (is better preserved) than the skin having been washed with the mild, soap-free foaming and cleansing gel from the ABCDerm range of the BioderrnaTm brand.

Claims

Claims

1. Lipid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises: - Between 10% and 20% by weight of the composition of cerides, preferably between 12 and 16%; - Between 4% and 20% by weight of the composition of ceramides, preferably between 5 and 18%; - Between 10% and 40% by weight of the composition of triglycerides, preferably 25 to 35%; and - Between 4% and 20% by weight of the composition of phospholipids, preferably 6 and 10%.

2. Lipidic cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said cerides are chosen from fatty alcohol esters and fatty acids, preferably jojoba oil.

3. Lipidic cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said ceramides are chosen from AP, EOS, EOP, NG / NS, NP, EOH and / or AH ceramides, preferably NS / NG and / or NP ceramides

4. Lipidic cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said triglycerides are provided by vegetable butter and / or vegetable oil, preferably chosen from vegetable butter of mango, murumuru seeds, cocoa, cupuaçu, olive, shea, avocado oil and / or sweet almond, preferably cocoa butter, shea butter and / or sweet almond oil.

5. Lipidic cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said phospholipids are chosen from lecithins, preferably non-hydrogenated, native and / or de-oiled lecithins.

6. Process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care comprising at least one step of mixing the lipid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent.

7. Cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers obtained by the process according to claim 6, characterized in that said at least one cosmetically acceptable agent is chosen from water, preferably in a sufficient quantity for and / or a humectant, preferably in an amount of between 5% and 10% by total weight of the composition and / or an emollient, preferably in an amount of between 1% and 30% by total weight of the composition and / or an emulsifier, preferably in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by total weight of the composition and / or at least one mild non-ionic foaming agent, preferably in an amount of between 2.5% and 7.5% by total weight of the composition and / or a film-forming agent, preferably in an amount of between 0.2% and 2% by total weight of the composition and / or an antimicrobial, preferably in an amount of between 0.5% and 1% by total weight of the composition and / or a soothing active ingredient, preferably in an amount of between 0.05% and 0.5% by total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care according to claim 7, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, preferably a moisturizing cream or a diaper cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse, an aerosol, a stick, a washing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous hydroalcoholic or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel and / or an anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid product.

9. Cosmetic composition for skin and keratin fiber care according to any one of claims 7 and 8, characterized in that it consists of 95%, preferably 98% and particularly preferably 100%, ingredients of plant origin.

10. Non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition for the care of healthy skin and healthy keratin fibers according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that it allows after topical application: the strengthening of the skin barrier, the prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, and / or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and / or the restoration of skin hydration.

11. Use according to claim 10, characterized in that it is intended for healthy skin of babies and children.