Colored skincare and / or makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: Zinc oxide, and One or more light-sensitive coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof.

Description

Title of the invention: Colored skincare and / or makeup composition. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to colored cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Colored anhydrous skincare and / or lip makeup products are sought after by consumers for their coverage, hold, and color properties for a skin and / or lip makeup effect.

[0003] Coverage is generally provided by white pigments and / or fillers, and titanium dioxide is notably used for its strong opacifying and covering power. Color is provided by coloring materials, organic and / or inorganic, some of which are known to be light-sensitive. This sensitivity can lead to instability of the color or hue on the surface when the composition is exposed to light. The color or hue on the surface of the composition exposed to light loses intensity and / or saturation; the surface of the composition is also said to decolorize in the light. Therefore, efforts are made to preserve and protect light-sensitive coloring materials to avoid these variations in hue or color.

[0004] Unexpectedly, the Applicant demonstrated that the use of zinc oxide particles, particularly in an anhydrous composition containing light-sensitive colorants, protected these colorants and thus promoted the stability of the composition's color and shade. Zinc oxide particles are therefore particularly advantageous, as a replacement for titanium dioxide particles, in the formulation of skincare and / or makeup compositions to provide coverage and, moreover, to protect light-sensitive colorants. The use of these zinc oxide particles thus makes it possible to obtain stable shades, even with light-sensitive pigments, which was not possible with titanium dioxide. Description of the invention

[0005] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. Zinc oxide particles, and ii. One or more light-sensitive colouring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0006] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0007] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. Zinc oxide particles, and ii. One or more light-sensitive colouring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0009] By "anhydrous composition," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0010] According to one embodiment, the composition is fluid or liquid, that is to say, it flows under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0011] According to another embodiment, the composition is in the form of a powder, in particular a free powder.

[0012] According to another embodiment, the composition is a solid composition. Preferably the solid composition comprises one or more waxes.

[0013] By "solid composition", as opposed to liquid or fluid composition or free powder, is meant according to the invention a composition which does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0014] The composition may in particular be in the form of a compact powder or a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0015] The term "compact powder" refers to a solid composition based on powders, distinct from a loose powder. The compact powder is generally prepared by mixing all the components of the particulate phase and then adding a liquid phase to this mixture while stirring. The mixture is then poured into a cup, a bucket, or a mold and compacted. Compaction is typically carried out at a pressure of 5 to 25 MPa and results in a reduction in the volume of the compacted composition. PULVERULENT PHASE

[0016] The powder phase of the composition comprises fillers and pigments.

[0017] The composition of the invention includes, in particular, zinc oxide particles. Zinc oxide particles

[0018] Zinc oxide particles are in the form of a white powder and are insoluble in water.

[0019] Zinc oxide particles can be in a heterogeneous form, generally hexagonal and cubic in shape.

[0020] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention are pigmentary zinc oxide particles, as opposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles used as a mineral sunscreen.

[0021] The average size of the zinc oxide particles used according to the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 50 pm (micrometers), in particular from 0.1 to 1 pm, or even from 0.1 to 1 pm.

[0022] The particle size can be measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method with a Malvern Mastersizer type device, in particular by measuring the value D

[50] , which represents the maximum size that 50% of the volume of the particles represents.

[0023] We can cite in particular the commercial references RONACARE ZINC OXIDE of the company Merck, or the reference A120-ZnO-l 1S3 of the company Kobo, or the reference ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS of the company Keyser&Mackay / Grillo.

[0024] According to a particular and preferred mode, the zinc oxide particles contain more than 80% by weight of ZnO, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, or 99% by weight of ZnO, or even 100% of ZnO.

[0025] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oil phase.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc oxide particles are not treated and they have the INCI name: Zinc oxide.

[0027] According to another particular mode, the zinc oxide particles are treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0028] Zinc oxide particles can also be mixed with a wetting agent to facilitate their dispersion in the composition and thus improve the homogeneity of the composition.

[0029] According to a particular mode, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 50% by weight of zinc oxide, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight of zinc oxide relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of zinc oxide particles will generally range from 1% to 50%, better from 5% to 40% by weight (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total content of zinc oxide particles will generally range from 0.5% to 30%, better from 1% to 20% by weight (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total zinc oxide particle content will generally range from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% (zinc oxide) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1%, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0034] According to an even more preferred mode, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

[0035] The composition further comprises one or more light-sensitive coloring materials. Light-sensitive coloring materials

[0036] For the purposes of this invention, "colorant" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Colorants are classically chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase).

[0037] Colouring materials may be made of material of mineral, synthetic or natural origin.

[0038] According to a particular method, the coloring materials are of mineral or synthetic origin.

[0039] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0040] A light-sensitive colouring material usable in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments and / or their salts, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] By "light-sensitive colorants" is meant colorants whose color (e.g., a colorant) or tint (e.g., a mixture of colorants) in formulation is not stable after exposure of the composition to light. The stability of the color or tint can be observed with the naked eye by a color expert or measured with a spectrocolorimeter by calculating the AE00 color difference between two samples (irradiated vs. control). A color or tint that is not stable in light is a color or tint that loses intensity and / or saturation. It is also said that the surface of the composition decolorizes in light.

[0042] To select light-sensitive colorants suitable for use in the compositions of the invention, the following test (also known as the 'Sun Test') can be used, which aims to identify colorants whose color or tint in formulation is affected by exposure to light, for example, irradiation for 16 hours: - The colouring material is generally pre-dispersed (for pigments) or solubilised (for dyes) in an oil and then the mixture (also called 'pigment paste') is dispersed homogeneously in an oily or greasy base including for example hydrocarbon oils and waxes as described below by way of illustration; - The composition obtained in the previous step is then conditioned in two cups, one serving as a control and the other being subjected to irradiation, for example for 16 hours; the irradiation is carried out using a Sun Test XLS type device, at a power of 500W / m2, for 16h, with a Store light reduced IR filter; - The hues of the irradiated composition versus the control (non-irradiated) composition are evaluated by a color expert who observes and describes the color or tint of each composition or by measuring a color difference AEoo according to the protocol described below; - A color that varies (e.g., loses intensity and / or saturation, fades) in the irradiated condition compared to the control condition (for example, an AEOo measurement greater than 1, in particular greater than 3, more particularly greater than 8, or even greater than 10 between the irradiated composition versus the non-irradiated control) indicates that the coloring material in formulation is a light-sensitive coloring material, capable of being used in the present invention in association with the zinc oxide particles that will prevent this fading.

[0043] The parameter AE00 is evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0044] The colorimetric parameters of the compositions are measured using a spectrocolorimeter such as a d / 8° spectrocolorimeter (COLORi7800 X Rite).

[0045] The device is used in included specular mode, with an aperture window of 17mm, UV is excluded from the light source. Spectral measurements are performed on each sample before and after irradiation.

[0046] The colorimetric values ​​are calculated in the CIELAB76 space, in which L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis, illuminating D65, observer 10°. Color deviations are calculated to evaluate the colorimetric evolution of the samples#between the hue of the irradiated composition versus the control composition: lightness deviation DL*ab, chroma deviation DC*ab, hue deviation DH*ab (ISO / CIE 11664-4:2019) and overall color deviation AEOo determined as defined by the CIE (ISO / CIE 11664-6:2014).

[0047] As an example for carrying out this test, the following oily and greasy base can be used:

[0048] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight POLYISOBUTENE QsplOO OCTYLDODECANOL 14.5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1.7 WAXES 25 CHOLESTEROL ESTERS 8.3 POLYGLYCEROL ESTER 6 CALCIUM CARBONATE 5

[0049] This mixture is used as a dispersion base (once melted) for bichromatic pigment preparations with equivalent TiO2 (opacifier) ​​and colorant contents. The mixture "Base + TiO2 pigment paste + colorant paste" is adjusted to achieve a level of color saturation similar to that found in products currently on the market; the texture is adjusted by adding a polyglycerol ester. The pigment pastes are dispersions of colorants in a polyglycerol ester of known concentration, prepared extemporaneously. For example, 60% of this base is mixed with 5% of a TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of Red 28 Lake pigment paste to be tested (3% Red 28 Lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester) and 25% polyglycerol ester (to bring the composition back to 100%).This mixture is heated to 95°C and homogenized using a rotor-stator to ensure consistent color. The product is poured into a mold at a temperature of approximately 90°C. The mold is left at room temperature for a few minutes, then placed in the freezer for 5 minutes. Afterward, the product is either unmolded or left in its mold and left to rest for a minimum of 24 hours before undergoing the Sun Test.

[0050] The steps of the protocol are followed, and the SunTest is used to assess whether the irradiated tint varies compared to the control tint. Compositions for which a variation in tint is observed indicate that the tested colorant is sensitive to light.

[0051] The Applicant has notably tested the organic dyes and pigments Red 28 Lake, Red 6 Sait, Blue 1 Lake and a mica-based mother-of-pearl coated with Red 6 and shown a variation in shade according to this protocol, with the greatest variation for Red 28 Lake, the most sensitive to light.

[0052] Thus, among the "light-sensitive organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lakes)" that can be used according to the invention, we can mention in particular the compounds Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410). 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof;in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and their mixtures.

[0053] "Lakes" are organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base"). In particular, lakes comprising a base selected from alumina (Al), barium sulfate (Ba), or calcium rosinate (Ca) bases will be used. For example, Red 28 Al lake is a lake comprising an alumina base on which the dye Red 28 is precipitated.

[0054] According to a more particular mode, the composition comprises at least one organic colorant or pigment (e.g., lake) selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably again Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] For the purposes of this invention, “composite pigment” means a pigment comprising a substrate and mineral and / or organic pigment(s) embedded and / or encapsulated in said substrate. Light-sensitive composite pigments usable according to the invention therefore comprise a substrate and at least one of the aforementioned light-sensitive organic colorants or pigment(s).

[0056] In general, composite pigments resulting from the encapsulation and / or embedding of mineral and / or organic pigments in or on substrates or matrices of different natures bring new optical properties to the pigments: in particular a lot of transparency while bringing Boutantes properties.

[0057] The substrate may be a matrix or a core comprising at least one inorganic material and / or at least one organic material.

[0058] Thus, the light-sensitive composite pigments according to the invention comprise an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and their mixtures, are embedded or encapsulated

[0059] The inorganic material of the substrate of said composite pigment may be chosen from the group consisting of: mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass or borosilicate flakes, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, titanium dioxide, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminium oxide, aluminium silicate, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, mineral clay, synthetic clay, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The organic material of the substrate of the composite pigment can be chosen from the group consisting of: polymethylmethacrylates (PMMA), polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polysaccharides, cellulose, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl resins, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, at least one of the organic colorants or pigments of said composite pigment is chosen from the light-sensitive organic colorants and pigments mentioned above and their mixtures and the substrate is chosen from silica, and more particularly silica spheres, borosilicate, alumina, or mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a particular method, said composite pigment is treated on the surface in particular by a lipophilic treatment agent and the resulting coating can be continuous or discontinuous.

[0063] By “pearlescent pigments”, also called “pearls” or “reflective particles”, we mean pigments with multilayer structures (distinct from the aforementioned composite pigments which are not multilayered) comprising a substrate (e.g. mica, bismuth oxychloride) covered with at least one of the colorants or organic pigments as mentioned above, and whose size, structure and physical and chemical nature of the layers as well as their surface condition, allows them to reflect incident light and create points of highlighting on the skin after application of said composition containing them.

[0064] Examples of usable pearlescent pigments according to the invention include colored pearlescent pigments based on mica and at least one of the aforementioned organic dyes or pigments. In particular, examples include pearlescent pigments based on synthetic mica with Bluel, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or carmine, or mixtures thereof. Examples include the commercially available pearlescent pigment ranges Intenza®, Colorona®, Sunshine®, Syncrystal®, and Reflecks®.

[0065] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises one or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of: i. Les colorants et pigments organiques choisis dans le groupe constitué par Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof; in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; ii. Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, are embedded or encapsulated; iii. Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Bluel, Blue 1 lake (CI42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; iv. and their mixtures;

[0066] preferably also organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and mixtures thereof.

[0067] In particular, the total content of light-sensitive colouring material(s) in the compositions of the invention shall range from 0.001% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0068] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of light-sensitive colouring material(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 50%, or better yet, from 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., color corrector), the total content of light-sensitive colorant(s) will generally from 0.001% to 30%, better from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total content of light-sensitive colouring material(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises another additional ingredient selected from additional coloring materials, fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof. Additional coloring agents

[0072] The composition may further comprise one or more additional colouring materials, distinct from the light-sensitive powdered colouring materials as defined above.

[0073] These additional colouring materials can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, soluble or insoluble in the oil phase of the composition, composite pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] According to a particular method, the additional colouring material(s) are in particular chosen from mineral pigments distinct from zinc oxides; organic pigments; composite pigments; mother-of-pearls; colorants, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Among the mineral pigments distinct from zinc oxides, one may mention iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and ferric blue.

[0076] Preferably, the composition will comprise one or more iron oxides.

[0077] Among the "additional organic colorants or pigments", one can mention Green 3, Green 5, Orange 10, Violet 2, Red 17, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, Orange 5, and quinoline yellow, and / or their lakes, and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Among the "additional composite pigments", one can cite those formed of a substrate and inorganic pigments such as iron oxides or organic pigments not sensitive to light such as those mentioned above.

[0079] Among the "additional pearlescent pigments," one can mention in particular colored pearlescent pigments, such as mica with iron oxides and with or without TiO2, mica with an additional organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples include the commercially available Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncrystal® ranges of pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments may also have a base of silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (e.g., calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate), or cellulose or cellulose derivatives.

[0080] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, additional organic pigments, additional mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] In particular, the total content of colouring materials (including colouring materials sensitive and not sensitive to light) in the composition shall range from 0.001% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 50% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of colouring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 50%, or better yet, from 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total content of coloring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, better from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total content of colouring matter(s) will generally range from 0.001% to 30%, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] The composition of the invention may further include one or more additional fillers (distinct from the zinc oxide particles). Charges

[0086] The fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to give a mattifying and / or blurring effect.

[0087] For the purposes of the invention, "charges" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.Additional fillers, separate from zinc oxide particles, are chosen from among the following: micas, of natural or synthetic origin; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; boron nitride; kaolin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (e.g. nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as crosslinked or uncrosslinked corn, wheat, rice, and cotton starches; hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

[0088] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention does not include talc.

[0089] The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent; such as those described previously for zinc oxide particles.

[0090] According to a particular mode, the charge is not surface treated.

[0091] According to another particular mode, the charge is treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent such as those described above.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least boron nitride particles as a filler. The presence of boron nitride particles is advantageous in a solid anhydrous composition comprising zinc oxide particles, for obtaining optimal hardness.

[0093] Boron nitride particles

[0094] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention are generally of lamellar or platelet shape. By 'lamellar particle' or 'platelet particle', it is understood that the thickness of the particle is less than the width of the particle, in particular the ratio between the width and the thickness of the particle goes from 2 to 100.

[0095] Boron nitride particles are generally known by the INCI name: Boron nitride.

[0096] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention generally have a average size ranging from 0.5 to 20pm, in particular from 1 to 1 Opm, measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method described previously.

[0097] The following commercial references can be cited in particular: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from IWASE / Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo.

[0098] The boron nitride particles may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0099] According to a particular mode, the boron nitride particles are not treated.

[0100] According to a particular mode, the boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles.

[0101] According to a particular mode, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.1% to 50%, in particular from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises at least one additional filler, distinct from the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles. Examples of additional fillers are listed above.

[0103] The total content of filler(s) in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.01% to 50%, in particular from 0.1% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total filler content will generally range from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total filler content will generally range from 0.5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total filler content will generally range from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OILY OR GREASY PHASE

[0107] The composition may include one or more oils and optionally also an ingredient selected from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats and mixtures thereof.

[0108] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0109] Oils that can be used in the invention include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0110] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, fatty alcohols in C12-C26 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, higher fatty acids in C12-C22 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and their mixtures.

[0111] Examples of oils of vegetable origin include soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil; Candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] As an example of a C10-C26 aliphatic fatty alcohol, linear or branched, saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols are cited, preferably also C16-C20 such as 2-octyldodecanol.

[0113] Examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons include paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, and mineral oils (mixtures of hydrocarbon oils). petroleum derivatives), polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or among linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes.

[0114] Examples of possibly branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] By way of example of esters, monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids having a linear or branched fatty chain containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as those mentioned above, or mixtures thereof, and of fatty alcohols having a fatty chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 esters of dipentaerythrityl, or polyesters of polyglycerol, polyesters of trimethylolpropane, polyesters of propylene glycol, polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil, and more particularly isononyl isononanoate, stearyl octanoate, isopropyl palmitate, myristate isopropyl, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate,diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin triisostearate; diisostearyl malate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, alkyl benzoate, (di)pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, triisostearate trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, triglyceride mixtures obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-oxyalkylated polyglycerol esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,Diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; jojoba esters; polyglyceryl polyricinoleates such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates, and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates (in their INCI names), and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The oil content may range from 0.2 to 90%, preferably from 0.5% to 80%, better from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total oil content will generally range from 0.2 to 50% by weight, in particular from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total oil content will generally range from 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total oil content will generally range from 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0121] By "lipophilic gelling agent" according to the invention, we mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of a composition.

[0122] The lipophilic gelling agent may advantageously be chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrin and fatty acids such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C8 C30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).

[0123] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites, and zeolites. Preferably, it can be selected from hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C2O alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0124] As a preferred liposoluble gelling agent, one may mention in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the reference BENTONE GEL of Elementis with INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0125] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

[0126] When the composition includes one or more gelling agent(s), the total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) may range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes. Waxes

[0128] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0129] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a particular and preferred mode, the total wax content in the composition of the invention ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better from 0.5% to 25%, even better from 1% to 25%, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total wax content will generally range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total wax content will generally range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm stick), the total wax content will generally range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, better from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fats.

[0135] Pasty fat

[0136] By "pasty fat body" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0137] According to the invention, the pasty fat can be selected from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, esters diglycerol, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 diacid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or polyol, the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid such as a monodi- or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5 OE) oxypropylenated (5 OP) pentaerythritol, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof.

[0139] The content of pasty fats can range from 0.05 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] For a compact powder composition (e.g., eyeshadow, face powder), the total content of pasty fats will generally range from 0 to 10%, in particular from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin that is distinct from a powder (e.g., concealer), the total content of pasty fats will generally range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For an anhydrous solid composition for the lips (e.g., lip balm), the total content of pasty fats will generally range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a solid composition comprising: - Zinc oxide particles, - One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof, - Boron nitride particles, - One or more waxes, preferably in a total content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, - Optionally, one or more additional light-insensitive coloring agents, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0143] and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0144] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is a solid composition comprising: - Zinc oxide particles, in particular at a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 1 to 30% by weight or even 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic colorants or pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of 0.001% to 30%, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Boron nitride particles, in particular at a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents, - One or more additional light-insensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0145] and characterized in that it is free of titanium dioxide.

[0146] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a fluid or liquid composition comprising: - Zinc oxide particles, - One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, - Optionally, one or more additional light-insensitive coloring agents, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0147] and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0148] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is a fluid or liquid composition comprising: - Zinc oxide particles, in particular at a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 1 to 30% by weight, or even 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of 0.01% to 50%, notably from 0.01% to 40%, or even from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents, - One or more additional light-insensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0149] and characterized in that it is free of titanium dioxide.

[0150] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising: - Zinc oxide particles, - One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic dyes or pigments, and mixtures thereof, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, - Optionally, one or more additional light-insensitive coloring agents, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0151] and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0152] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising: - Zinc oxide particles, particularly in a content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, notably 1 to 30% by weight, or even 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more light-sensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lacquers), composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content of 0.001% to 50%, notably from 0.01% to 40%, or even from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents, - One or more additional light-insensitive coloring materials, chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0153] and characterized in that it is free of titanium dioxide.

[0154] In particular in these different particular and preferred embodiments, the light-sensitive coloring materials are chosen from the group consisting of: i. The organic dyes and pigments chosen from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof;in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; ii. Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, are embedded or encapsulated; iii. Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; iv. and their mixtures;

[0155] preferably also organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and mixtures thereof. GALENIQUE

[0156] The composition of the invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the eyelids, eyebrows and lips.

[0157] The composition may be in the form of a loose powder, a fluid foundation, a lip gloss or in the form of a compact powder or a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup, in particular a lip gloss, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick.

[0158] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in a liquid or fluid form. This will notably be a fluid foundation or a lip gloss.

[0159] According to a first mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a free powder.

[0160] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a compact powder.

[0161] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup.

[0162] In particular, it will be a compact powder for the eyelids (eyeshadow or eyeshadow) or for the complexion.

[0163] According to another method, it will be a lip stick or a composition in a pot or cup for the lips.

[0164] According to another particular mode, it will be a liner pencil.

[0165] According to another particular mode, it will be a stick or a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with a finger or brush, for eyebrows (ex: eyebrow pencil).

[0166] In another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with a finger, sponge or brush, for the eyelids (ex: eyeshadow).

[0167] According to another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge or brush, for the skin of the face, in particular certain areas (ex: complexion corrector or concealer).

[0168] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lip gloss or lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or lip stick. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0169] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0170] The compositions of the invention are as defined above.

[0171] According to a particular method, the composition applied to the skin is in the form of a compact powder.

[0172] Preferably, the composition applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip gloss, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick.

[0173] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0174] Example 1: Effect of zinc oxide particles on color protection

[0175] Several tests were carried out beforehand to determine the covering power of zinc oxide particles, compared to titanium dioxide, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired coverage effect.

[0176] These results showed that, for an equivalent covering power, in an anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, a quantity of zinc oxide particles approximately 3 to 4 times greater than the quantity of titanium dioxide was required for an equivalent covering result.

[0177] Various organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lacquers) and a mother-of-pearl were tested in a lipstick base as described below:

[0178] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight POLYISOBUTENE QsplOO OCTYLDODECANOL 14.5 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1.7 WAXES 25 CHOLESTEROL ESTERS 8.3 POLYGLYCEROL ESTER 6 CALCIUM CARBONATE 5

[0179] This mixture is used as a dispersion base (once melted) for bichromatic pigment preparations with equivalent TiO2 (opacifier) ​​and colorant contents. The mixture "Base + TiO2 pigment paste + colorant paste" is adjusted to achieve a level of color saturation similar to that found in products currently on the market; the texture is adjusted by adding a polyglycerol ester. The pigment pastes are dispersions of colorants in a polyglycerol ester of known concentration, prepared extemporaneously.

[0180] To facilitate reading the first line of the table, 60% of this base was mixed with 5% of a TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of the Red 28 Lake pigment paste to be tested (3% Red 28 Lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), and 25% polyglycerol ester (to bring the composition to 100%). This mixture was heated to 95°C and homogenized using a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The product was poured at a temperature of approximately 90°C into a mold. The mold was left at room temperature for a few minutes, then placed in the freezer for 5 minutes. Afterward, the product was either unmolded or left in its mold and allowed to rest for a minimum of 24 hours before undergoing the Sun Test. Color evaluation by Sun Test:

[0181] The color stability properties of the compositions in light were evaluated according to a 'Sun Test' protocol, in which the compositions are subjected to irradiation for 16 hours.

[0182] Each composition is poured into two lipstick pots: one control and one which will be irradiated for 16 hours.

[0183] Irradiation is carried out using a Sun Test XLS type device, at a power of 500W / m2, for 16h, with a Store light reduced IR filter.

[0184] The hues of each composition tested, compared to the control composition (non-irradiated), are evaluated by a colorist who observes and describes the color variation of each composition.

[0185] The results are presented in the following table:

[0186] [Tables3] Formulas % expressed as pure matter SunTest Pigments / Mother-of-Pearl Tested s likely to be light-sensitive Composition Pigment / mother-of-pearl s likely to be light-sensitive TiO2 in the mother-of-pearl %TiO2 (provided by the pigment paste) %ZnO (provided by the pigment paste) Visual evaluation after SunTest Red 28 Al lake Control Ti O2 3 3 Strong decolorization ZnO *4 3 12 Decreased decolorization (protective effect of ZnO) Red 6 Sait Control Ti O2 0.6 3 Weak decolorization ZnO *4 0.6 12 Decreased decolorization (protective effect of ZnO) Blue 1 lake Tem oin Ti 02 3 3 Average discoloration ZnO *4 3 12 Decrease in discoloration (protective effect of ZnO) Intenz a Orange Control oin Ti 02 0.07 (In Mother-of-Pearl) 0.17 3 Average discoloration mica- Red 6 ZnO *4 0.07 (In Mother-of-Pearl) 0.17 12 Reduction of discoloration (protective effect of ZnO)

[0187] ZnO *4: the quantity of ZnO is multiplied by 4 with respect to the quantity of TiO2 to obtain the same covering power and to be 'iso-tinted' in the examples.

[0188] These results show that zinc oxide (ZnO) particles have a protective effect on the discoloration of light-sensitive coloring materials. Example 2: Formulations

[0189] The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator.

[0190] 2.1 Liquid anhydrous lip gloss

[0191] [Tables4] INGREDIENTS % by weight s POLYBUTENE 20 TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE 6 PENTAER TYTRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 10 VEGETABLE FAT ESTERS 15 COLORS 0.1 RED 27 LAKE 0.01 ZINC OXIDE PARTICLES 0.2 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE QSP100

[0192] 2.2 Compact Powder

[0193] [Tables5] INGREDIENTS (INCI NAMES) % by weight SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE Qsp 100 NACRE (mica and Red 6) 2 MICA 10 CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE 10 SILICA 7.9 PRESERVATIVE qs ZINC OXIDE PARTICLES 5.7 ZINC STEARATE 0.5 Lipophilic treated IRON OXIDES 3.3 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MIGLYOL 8 29 MB) 3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE (DERMOF EEL BGC MB) 5.5 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 2 GLYCOLS 2.5

[0194] The compact powder exhibits good color stability in light. When applied to the skin of the face, it provides good coverage and color.

[0195] 2.3 Anhydrous lip balm

[0196] [Tableauxô] INGREDIENTS % by weight SILICA 5.0 POLYETHYLENE WAX 5.5 CANDELILLA WAX 3.0 SHEA BUTTER 1.5 IRON OXIDE (red) 5.0 RED 28 LAKE 2.0 BORON NITRIDE PARTICLES 0.2 ZINC OXIDE PARTICLES 3.0 POLYDECENE HYDROGEN QSP100

[0197] The lipstick exhibits good color stability in light. When applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good coverage and color properties.

[0198] 2.4 Anhydrous eyeshadow

[0199] [Tables?] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight SILICA 15 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGO PITE 10 IRON OXIDE 8 ZINC OXIDE PARTICLES 10 NACRES (mica and Red7 la ke) 2 OILS AND WAXES q.s. 100

[0200] The eyeshadow, packaged in a small dish, exhibits good color stability in light. Applied to the eyelids, the eyeshadow provides coverage and a pearlescent effect.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide, and (ii) One or more light-sensitive colorants selected from the group consisting of organic colorants and pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, said light-sensitive colorant being selected from the group consisting of organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410). 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28,or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and mixtures thereof, and the composition being characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of light-sensitive colouring matter(s) ranges from 0.001 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the zinc oxide particle content ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight of zinc oxide, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular is free from titanium dioxide.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a powder.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a fluid or liquid composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a solid composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises another additional ingredient selected from additional coloring materials, additional fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in the form of a loose powder, a liquid foundation, a lip gloss or in the form of a compact powder or a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup, in particular a lip gloss, a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or a lip stick.

10. Cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.