Keratinous tissue care composition

A formulation of glycyrrhetinic acid with C2-C8 glycol, fatty acid polyglyceryle ester, and liquid fatty alcohol addresses stability and irritation issues, ensuring long-term stability and reduced skin intolerance.

FR3134005B1Active Publication Date: 2025-04-18LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022003070
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-02-25
Filing Date
2022-04-05
Publication Date
2025-04-18
Estimated Expiration
2042-04-05

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions containing glycyrrhetinic acid face stability issues due to high doses of glycols and surfactants, leading to skin intolerance and precipitation of the active ingredient, which are not suitable for daily use.

Method used

A composition comprising glycyrrhetinic acid, C2-C8 glycol, fatty acid polyglyceryle ester, and liquid fatty alcohol, formulated to maintain stability and reduce irritation, using specific ratios and ingredients to prevent precipitation.

Benefits of technology

The composition remains stable for at least an hour without glycyrrhetinic acid precipitation, offering a stable and less irritating skin care solution.

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Abstract

TITLE: Keratinous Material Care Composition The present invention relates to a keratinous material care composition comprising: (i) at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and esters; (ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol; (iii) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester; and (iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: Figure 1
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition for caring for keratinous materials Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injuries (such as trauma) and biological injuries (such as bacteria, viruses, or fungi). The epidermis is a keratinized stratified squamous epithelium. Its average thickness is 60 to 100 qm and can reach 600 to 700 qm on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands. It is composed mainly of keratinocytes, but also of other cells, and rests on a basement membrane that separates it from the dermis.

[0003] During menopause, the skin undergoes changes in all its compartments, namely the dermis and the epidermis.

[0004] The development of formulations dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0005] A wide variety of cosmetic compositions comprising cosmetic active ingredients have been used for skin care.

[0006] Glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone) is a type of anti-inflammatory ingredient that can be used in cosmetic formulas to reduce skin sensitivity, inflammation, among other things. However, it is not easy to dissolve in either water or a conventional oil.

[0007] A commonly used method is to use a high dose of glycols (>40%) to solubilize glycyrrhetinic acid, or a high dose of surfactant (>15%) to suspend glycyrrhetinic acid. Most of these applications are for medical purposes.

[0008] Document WO2021025550A1 discloses a pharmaceutical formulation which comprises 18[3-glycyrrhetinic acid, said formulation being a nanoemulsion aimed at enhancing the bioavailability of the active ingredient, the formulation comprising a solubilizing agent selected from diethylene glycol derivatives, propylene glycol derivatives or polyethylene glycol derivatives; a stabilizer selected from polyoxyglycerides, castor oil derivatives or ethoxylated fatty alcohols; and an emollient oleaginous vehicle, the solubilizing agent diethylene glycol representing at least less than 40% of the total weight of the formulation.

[0009] In cosmetic use, a high dose of glycols and surfactant can cause a problem of skin intolerance for daily use.

[0010] Thus, there continues to be a need to formulate a skin care composition comprising glycyrrhetinic acid or its derivative, which is stable (i.e., the glycyrrhetinic acid or its derivative is not precipitated) and provides less irritation (or contains a relatively small amount of surfactant or glycol). Summary of the Invention

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that the above needs can be met by the present invention.

[0012] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one cosmetic active compound chosen from glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and its esters;

[0014] (ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol;

[0015] (iii) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester; and

[0016] (iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

[0017] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0018] It has been found that the composition of the present invention is stable, i.e., glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and esters are not precipitated after a period of time, for example at least one hour.

[0019] Other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0020] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0021] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] shows the photos of the compositions of the inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 after being centrifuged at 900 rpm for 1 hour. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the de- finish described in this document applies.

[0023] In the following EC and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0024] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0025] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features, as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. In this document, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0026] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing the amount of ingredients and the like that are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the intended purpose, if necessary.

[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is more particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0028] All percentages in the present invention refer to percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

[0029] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (i) at least one cosmetic active compound chosen from glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and its esters;

[0031] (ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol;

[0032] (iii) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester; and

[0033] (iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0034] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active compound chosen from glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and its esters.

[0035] Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid derivative of the beta-amyrin type and is shown below:

[0036] Glycyrrhetinic acid may be α-glycyrrhetinic acid and / or [3-glycyrrhetinic acid.

[0037] α-Glycyrrhetinic acid [3-Glycyrrhetinic acid

[0038] The C18 hydrogen of α-glycyrrhetinic acid and [3-glycyrrhetinic acid is in the confirmation α or [3, respectively.

[0039] [3-Glycyrrhetinic acid] is a substance which is obtained by hydrolysis of glycyrrhizic acid obtained from licorice.

[0040] α-Glycyrrhetinic acid can be obtained by heating 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid in an alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic medium with an alkali metal hydroxide. The alcohols can be chosen from ethanol, n- and iso-propanol and n- and iso-butanol.

[0041] Preferred salts of glycyrrhetinic acids are alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salts or salts of organic bases, such as methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumine, morpholine or arginine.

[0042] Preferred esters of glycyrrhetinic acids are esters of saturated, straight or branched chain alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred esters are methyl esters, glyceryl esters and stearyl esters.

[0043] Thus, preferably, the cosmetic active compound is chosen from glycyrrhetinic acid, its alkali metal salts, its alkaline earth metal salts, its ammonium salts, salts of organic bases and glycyrrhetinic acid, esters of saturated alcohols, straight or branched chain, having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof.

[0044] More preferably, the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, lithium gly-cyrrhetinate, calcium glycyrrhetinate, magnesium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, salts of glycyrrhetinic acid and an organic base selected from methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumine, morpholine and arginine, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.

[0045] Most preferably, the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.

[0046] Advantageously, the cosmetic active compound chosen from glycyrrhetinic acid, its salts and its esters is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C2-C8 Glycols

[0047] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C2-C8 glycol.

[0048] The term “glycol” herein refers to an alcohol having two hydroxy groups.

[0049] Glycol can be a natural or synthetic glycol. Glycol can have a linear or branched molecular structure.

[0050] Preferably, the C2-C8 glycol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof.

[0051] In the present application, the definition of glycol includes all possible isomers. For example, propylene glycol includes 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,1-propylene glycol. Butylene glycol includes 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, etc.

[0052] More preferably, the C2-C8 glycol is selected from propylene glycol, propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof.

[0053] Most preferably, the C2-C8 glycol is dipropylene glycol, propanediol.

[0054] Advantageously, the C2-C8 glycol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 4% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid

[0055] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0056] It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises from 2 to 10 polyglyceryl units, more preferably from 4 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.

[0057] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from monoesters, diesters and triesters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably a saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0058] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 ses-quimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 ses-quistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesqui-sostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate,PG3 sesquistearate, , PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 dii-sostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, stearate PG4, PG4 sesquistearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 sesquiisostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate,PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 sesquistearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 Tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate PG5, PG5 isostearate, PG5 sesquiisostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 tetraisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 stearate,PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 caprylate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dioleate, PG7 caprylate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dioleate, PG8 caprylate, PG9, PG9 dioleate, PG9 caprylate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 caprylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is chosen from: polyglyceryl mono- or di-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono- or dioleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono- or dicaprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and a combination thereof.

[0060] It is more preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (PG6 dicaprate), polyglyceryl-6 dioleate (PG6 dioleate), polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (PG6 caprylate), polyglyceryl-2 oleate (PG2 oleate), and a combination thereof.

[0061] As PG6 dicaprate, for example, SunSoft Q-102H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Company can be used. As PG6 dioleate, SunSoft Q-172H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Company can be used. As PG6 caprylate, SunSoft Q-8H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Company can be used.

[0062] Advantageously, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 12% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Liquid fatty alcohols

[0063] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty alcohol.

[0064] The expression “liquid fatty alcohol” designates a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at normal temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013x105 Pa).

[0065] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0066] The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0067] The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They can optionally tively include in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

[0068] More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.

[0069] Isostearyl alcohol is more particularly preferred as liquid saturated fatty alcohol.

[0070] The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have at least one double or triple bond in their structure. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention carry one or more double bonds in their structure. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.

[0071] These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0072] They may optionally comprise, in their structures, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

[0073] More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen among oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.

[0074] In the composition of the invention, oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred as liquid unsaturated fatty alcohol.

[0075] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Advantageously, the liquid fatty alcohol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0077] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

[0078] Said aqueous phase contains water.

[0079] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0080] The composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.

[0081] If this is the case, advantageously, the oily phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

[0082] Said oily phase preferably contains at least one oil.

[0083] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0084] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0085] The expression "non-volatile oil" designates an oil which can remain on keratinous materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the quantity evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm2.

[0086] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0087] The composition of the present invention may comprise an active ingredient additional cosmetic in addition to the cosmetic active compound as defined above.

[0088] As an example of a cosmetic active ingredient, mention may be made of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficusindica flower extract); vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tensing agents; agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

[0089] It is easy for the person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0090] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents (for example, phytic acid), preservatives (for example, salicylic acid) and bactericides, thickeners (such as xanthan gum), pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0091] The person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0092] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0093] (i) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid;

[0094] (ii) from 6% by weight to 10% by weight of dipropylene glycol;

[0095] (iii) from 5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and a combination thereof; and

[0096] (iv) from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and a combination thereof. Dosage form and process

[0097] The composition of the present invention is in the form of a liquid, lotion, or emulsion.

[0098] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.

[0099] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0100] In particular, the keratinous material is the skin.

[0101] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature. EXAMPLES

[0102] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0103] [Tableauxl] INCI name Trade name Supplier GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID 3005100 18B-GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID INDENA ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL PRISORINE 3515-LQ-(GD) CRODA DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL LO+ DOW POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE SUNSOFT Q-8H-C TAIYO KAGAKU

[0104] Examples of the invention 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3

[0105] The compositions of the inventive examples (EI) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE) 1-3 were prepared on the basis of the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] [Tables2] Components ELI EI.2 EC.l EC.2 EC.3 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.2 Dipropylene glycol 7.5 10 10 0 7.5 Isostearyl alcohol 2 1 0 3 2 Glyceryl stearate 0 0 0 0 6 Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate 6 6 6 6 0 Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0107] The composition of the inventive examples 1-2 represents compositions according to the present invention.

[0108] The composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0109] The composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one C2-C8 glycol.

[0110] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not comprise at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. Preparation process:

[0111] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of formula 1 of the invention:

[0112] 1). mixture of glycyrrhetinic acid, dipropylene glycol, iso- alcohol tearyl ester and polyglyceryl-6 caprylate at room temperature, heating the mixture at 80 C for about 1 hour to obtain a crystalline phase A.

[0113] 2). heating the water to 80 C to use it as phase B.

[0114] 3). Mixing of phase A and phase B with a homogenizer at 1600 rpm for 15 minutes.

[0115] 4). mixing the solution obtained until it cools to the temperature ambient. Assessment :

[0116] The appearance of each composition obtained was observed with the naked eye.

[0117] The stability of each composition obtained was evaluated by centrifuging the composition at 900 rpm for 1 hour and observing it with the naked eye to check whether glycyrrhetinic acid crystals have deposited. The composition will be evaluated as stable if no glycyrrhetinic acid crystals have deposited, otherwise, it will be assessed as unstable.

[0118] [Fig.l] shows the photos of the compositions of the inventive examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 after being centrifuged at 900 rpm for 1 hour.

[0119] The appearance and stability results are summarized in Table 3.

[0120] [Tables3] Properties ELI El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 Appearance Translucent liquid Translucent liquid with white deposit Transparent liquid with white deposit Creamy white Deposit after centrifugation No No Yes Yes NA Stability Yes Yes No No NA

[0121] NA: not tested

[0122] It is clear from Table 3 that the compositions according to examples 1-2 of the invention are stable, without deposit after centrifugation.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid; (ii) from 6% by weight to 10% by weight of dipropylene glycol; (iii) from 5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid chosen from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and a combination thereof; and (iv) from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, li-nolenic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and a combination thereof.

2. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising an aqueous phase containing water.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1-2, further comprising an oily phase containing at least one oil.

4. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 to the keratinous materials.