Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylated and / or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol, and the process for its implementation

Abstract

Title: Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol, and a hydroxylated carboxylic acid, and a method for implementing it. The invention relates to a makeup and / or skincare and / or lip composition, preferably for lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly a C2-C5 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol. The invention also relates to a method for applying makeup and / or skincare and / or lip products, particularly lip products, in which the aforementioned composition is applied.The invention finally relates to a process, consisting of 1) applying the composition according to the invention, said composition comprising at least one coloring matter; then 2) applying a composition (M) comprising at least one oil.

Description

Title of the invention: Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylated and / or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol, and a method for implementing it

[0001] The present invention relates to a makeup and / or skin and / or lip care composition, comprising at least one polyphenol-type compound, at least one compound Y selected from linear, branched or crosslinked, non-ionic polyoxyalkylened and / or polyglycerolated silicones, and at least 25% by weight of a C2-C8 alcohol.

[0002] Today, in the skincare and / or lip makeup market, many products claim to last all day, resisting external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" lip or face products, for home use, are primarily based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most often volatile oils. For example, some compositions include a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate resin (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), or silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymer (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).

[0003] For some years now, consumers have been increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly looking to use products containing an increasing amount of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging.

[0004] The difficulty remains, however, to reconcile these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.

[0005] The present invention aims to provide compositions that allow excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup of the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, and even to cleaning products, in particular makeup removers, such as certain micellar waters, makeup remover wipes, for example.

[0006] The present invention aims to provide compositions that allow for excellent retention of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup. of the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, and even cleaning products, especially makeup removers, such as certain micellar waters, makeup remover wipes, for example.

[0007] These objectives and others are achieved by the present invention, which relates to a makeup and / or skincare and / or lip care composition, preferably for the lips, more particularly makeup, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol.

[0008] It also relates to a makeup and / or skincare process consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition as defined above.

[0009] The present invention further relates to a method of applying makeup to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) A composition as defined above is applied to the skin and / or lips, said composition comprising at least one coloring material; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0010] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow

[0011] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin refers to the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body, of the hands.

[0012] The makeup and / or skincare and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium that is compatible with the skin and / or lips, has a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness) likely to deter the consumer from using the composition.

[0013] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrogen bond interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom from one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom from the other reactant, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, or fluorine. In the context of this invention, the hydrogen bond(s) are formed between the hydroxyl (OH) group(s) of the reactant phenol group(s) of the reactant. polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with polyphenol X.

[0014] The present invention more particularly comprises the implementation of a coating agent obtained by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y. More particularly, said coating agent is in a latent state in the composition according to the invention and only fully appears in situ, that is to say, once the composition has been applied to the skin and / or lips. In other words, in the composition according to the invention, prior to its application, the conditions (ingredients, concentrations) are such that they do not favor the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in liquid form at room temperature.

[0016] By "ambient temperature", we mean 25°C.

[0017] By “atmospheric pressure”, we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1.013.105 Pascals.

[0018] POLYPHENOL X

[0019] The polyphenols X usable according to the present invention comprise in their structure at least two different phenol groups.

[0020] By "polyphenol" is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0021] By "different phenol groups" is meant chemically different phenol groups.

[0022] The polyphenols X usable according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic ring.

[0023] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0024] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifoline), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; the catechism tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavonoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, lignins can also be mentioned.

[0026] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidine; and mixtures thereof.

[0027] As polyphenols X usable according to the invention, we can also mention chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from among the catecholic tannins such as the gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescaline, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, diffusisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanins.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract of INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin by weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by Tayo Green Power.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular a maritime pine bark extract of INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

[0031] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.

[0032] Preferably, the polyphenol content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly between 3 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0033] COMPOUNDS Y

[0034] The compound(s) Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X are therefore chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated.

[0035] According to a particular mode, the compound or compounds Y, in the middle of the composition, do not have an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

[0036] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from among the compounds whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

[0037] More particularly, these compounds Y are non-ionic, linear, branched or cross-linked polydimethylsiloxanes, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated motifs and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated motifs and / or comprising from 2 to 20 glycerolated motifs, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester(s) functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated motifs; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0038] Preferably, compound(s) Y is / are selected from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethyl-siloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosspolymer, dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax and their mixtures.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0040] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0041] C2-C8 MONO ALCOHOL

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mono-alcohol in C2-C8, more particularly in C2-C5. By way of example, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, and even more preferably ethanol, may be cited.

[0043] Advantageously, the C2-C8 mono-alcohol content is such that compounds X and Y do not react together in the composition prior to its application. Said A mono alcohol can thus be considered a hydrogen bond inhibitor. By "hydrogen bond inhibitor," we mean any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between polyphenol X and compound Y and / or of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds.

[0044] More particularly, the content of mono alcohol in C2-C8, preferably in C2-C5, and more particularly in ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] WATER AND WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENTS

[0046] The composition may optionally include water. This may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0047] More particularly, the water content is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D). According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of the composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, the water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.

[0049] If the composition includes water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0050] The composition may optionally include other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C) such as polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0051] COLOURING MATTER

[0052] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0053] More particularly, the content of coloring matter(s) in the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0054] The colouring material(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Pigments

[0056] “Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0057] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0058] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0059] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 sqm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 sqm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 sqm.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0061] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern MasterSizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and it allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0062] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0063] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with stearoyl may be cited more particularly. aluminum glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0064] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0065] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0066] The pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0067] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0068] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0069] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized such as that produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0070] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0071] According to a particular mode, the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0072] According to another particular mode, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0073] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0074] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0075] For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0076] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0077] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0078] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0079] The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% % by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0080] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0081] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0082] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0083] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0084] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0086] According to another particular mode, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally derived pigment.

[0087] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0088] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.

[0089] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0090] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0091] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0092] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0093] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the name D&CRed7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0094] The pigment(s) are preferably present at a concentration of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the colorant content is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05% and 30% by weight, and even better between 0.1% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

[0096] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0097] By "water-soluble colouring material", for the purposes of the invention, means any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0098] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of colouring.

[0099] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 may be cited.

[0100] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, anthocyanins can be mentioned.

[0101] As suitable liposoluble colorants for the invention, the following may be cited in particular: liposoluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.

[0102] By way of illustration, natural fat-soluble colorants, one can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0103] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in the composition at levels of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] OILY PHASE

[0105] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention, preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.

[0106] The term "oily phase" means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, other than compounds Y, such as oils, waxes, pastes and possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0107] Oils

[0108] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The term "oil" means a liquid fat at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0111] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0112] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0113] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0114] Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0115] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils, special mention can be made of those selected from hydrocarbon-type hydrocarbon oils (i.e., oils nonpolar hydrocarbons, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as ester-type oils. In particular, they can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, - C8-Ci6 branched esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - their mixtures.

[0116] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell by the company SHELL, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in Cognis patent application DE10 2008 012 457.

[0117] Volatile silicone oils

[0118] Among volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, among others, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0119] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0120] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0121] The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether functions.

[0122] By way of example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, one may cite: - triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular those whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C8 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can notably be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, and palm oils, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with at least such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate,octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; , - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - linear fatty acid esters and polyesters with a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; - Esters and polyesters of diol dimers and mono- or dicarboxylic acids, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, for example with the INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the NIPPON company FINE CHEMICAL and described in US application 2004-175338, the contents of which are incorporated into this application by reference; - fatty alcohols with 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being either identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures.

[0123] Non-volatile hydrocarbon non-polar oils

[0124] The oil may also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated.

[0125] The non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0126] Said nonpolar, linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin such as, for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly in Ci5-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures.

[0127] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0128] The non-volatile oil may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More specifically, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxy groups such as, in particular, (poly)ethoxy or (poly)propoxy groups, or of (poly)glycerol groups.

[0129] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0130] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is selected from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] These products are marketed, in particular, under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone products such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS, or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A, marketed by Shin Etsu; and Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 products marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values ​​in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0132] More particularly, the concentration in the oil phase of composition (D) is between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0133] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0134] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a silicone volatile oil. Preferably, the content of the silicone volatile oil is less than or equal to 20% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon. More particularly, the volatile oil content, preferably hydrocarbon, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight, and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition does not comprise any silicone volatile oil.

[0136] Waxes

[0137] The composition may optionally include at least one wax.

[0138] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0139] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0140] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of wax of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetically sealed aluminum capsule. The sample is subjected to an initial heating from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 5°C / minute. During this second heating, the melting point of the solid fat is measured. This point corresponds to the peak of the most endothermic point on the observed melting curve, representing the variation in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0141] Waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0142] More particularly, the waxes are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0143] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e., comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), we can mention in particular polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0144] Among polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms) suitable waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester, and / or ether group.

[0145] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used as wax.

[0146] Also of note are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains. Among these, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1) tetrastearate may be mentioned. propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyl-1,1,1 propane tetrabehenate) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0147] Also suitable are waxes of the type of C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, alone or in mixture, or a C2o-C4O alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "KESTER WAX K82H" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0148] As examples of alcohol wax, we can mention mixtures of linear, saturated alcohols, in C30-C50 such as, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technology, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0149] The wax content, if included in the composition, varies between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Pasty compounds

[0151] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 20°C. Thus, a pasty compound may have a melting point below 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0152] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the energy generated under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0153] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from:

[0154] - vegetable butters, such as mango butter, for example, that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

[0155] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as soybean oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0156] - hydrogenated castor oil esters and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid such as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,

[0157] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as, for example, saturated fatty acid glycerides C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0158] - polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-C10 and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

[0159] - polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as: * diol dimer esters (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid esters, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0160] Preferably, if the composition includes them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with INCI name Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof.

[0161] If the composition includes at least one hydrocarbon paste compound, its / their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0163] The composition of the invention may contain additives commonly used in cosmetics. These may include, in particular, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling or thickening agents, surfactants, cosmetic actives such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Antioxidants

[0165] In particular, antioxidant agents are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol X. They can be selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and metabisulfite, and thiol-type reducing agents. In particular, cysteine. We can also mention carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as fat-soluble colorants.

[0166] These additives may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0% of the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0168] Compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) can be manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0169] The compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) used according to the invention may be skincare, makeup, or hybrid products (with a skincare and makeup valence) of keratinous materials such as skin, eye contour, lips.

[0170] MAKE-UP AND / OR SKINCARE PROCESSES

[0171] According to a first variant of the invention, the composition is applied to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips.

[0172] According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention involves the following steps: 1) A composition as defined above is applied to the skin and / or lips, said composition preferably comprising at least one colouring substance; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0173] The application of the compositions is advantageously carried out without mixing. More specifically, it is preferable that the composition of the second step be applied once that of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guideline, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.

[0174] When the process is implemented in the presence of compositions that do not include colouring material(s), it is referred to as a cosmetic care process.

[0175] If the process is carried out in the presence of at least one coloring material, then it is referred to as a cosmetic makeup process, possibly a hybrid process (i.e., skincare and makeup).

[0176] Preferably, the process according to the invention is carried out with a composition according to the invention comprising at least one coloring material.

[0177] Composition (M)

[0178] Composition (M) comprises at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils indicated above.

[0179] The composition (M) may also possibly include at least one colouring material selected from those defined above.

[0180] The composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-siliconized film-forming polymer, or a mixture.

[0181] Examples of silicone film-forming polymers include silicone resins, such as those with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are polymers with the following INCI names: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] The film-forming polymer can also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or sequenced ethylenic copolymers such as acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).

[0183] If the composition (M) includes it, the content of film-forming polymer(s) varies advantageously between 0.1 and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M).

[0184] The composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as paste compounds, in particular hydrocarbon compounds such as vegetable butters (e.g. shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (e.g. bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; waxes, in particular hydrocarbon, polar (e.g. ester type) or non-polar (e.g. polyethylene, microcrystalline wax...); organic solvents; thickeners; fillers, colorless or white, lamellar, spherical or in the form of fibers; cosmetic actives such as vitamins, solar UV filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents.

[0185] Composition (M) may or may not include water.

[0186] Composition (M) may be a product, in particular makeup and / or skincare of the skin, face, cheeks, eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, they then contain at least one coloring substance as defined above.

[0187] The compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, anhydrous oily compositions or multiphase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, bi- or triphasic compositions.

[0188] The compositions (M) for the skin can also be in solid and hot-poured form.

[0189] Compositions (M) for the skin, in particular makeup, may also be eyeshadows or blush, and may be presented more particularly in the form of loose or compact powder.

[0190] By “compact powder” is meant a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction during manufacturing.

[0191] By "free powder" is meant a mass of product which is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed of particles which are mostly isolated and mobile relative to each other.

[0192] Makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder, preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content in particular greater than or equal to 50% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one filler which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] Composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, in particular a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.

[0194] Lip compositions (M) may be in solid form such as a stick or cup products or in liquid form.

[0195] They can be anhydrous or aqueous, in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.

[0196] Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, in particular in the form of a particle dispersion (latex).

[0197] PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

[0198] The compositions (A), (B) (C), (D) and / or (M) according to the invention can each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which includes said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0199] The container may be in any suitable shape. It may, in particular, be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case.

[0200] The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, lid, or seal, in particular of the type having a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, valve, or flap.

[0201] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described, for example, in French patent FR 2 722 380), or in the form of a deformable or non-deformable element made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or attached to a rod carried by the closure element. as described for example in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator can be attached to the container, as described for example in French patent 2,761,959.

[0202] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0203] The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fitting, or by clamping. "Snap-fitting" refers in particular to any system involving the passage of a bead or a band of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, and then by the return of said portion to its elastically unconstrained position after passing the bead or band.

[0204] The container may be made, at least in part, of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene and polyethylene.

[0205] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube-bottle.

[0206] The container may include means for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) compression of the container walls.

[0207] The container may be equipped with a wringer located near the opening of the container. Such a wringer allows the applicator and, optionally, the rod to which it may be attached, to be wiped. Such a wringer is described, for example, in French patent FR 2 792 618.

[0208] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0209] The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0210] In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients in the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0211] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0212] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages.

[0213] The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. Examples

[0214] Example 1: One-step process

[0215] The following compositions have been prepared:

[0216] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) Comparative Invention 1 Invention 2 Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem N v) 5 5 10 PEG-9 polydimethyl-siloxyethyl dim ethicone (KF 6028- SHIN ETSU) 5 PEG-10 Dimethicone (KF-6017 - Shin Etsu) 10 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR - Sensient) 10 10 5 Ethanol Qsp 100 qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0217] Preparation process Under Rayneri stirring, solubilize the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent(s) at room temperature. Once the tannic acid is solubilized, add the silicone compound Y while stirring. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add the coloring matter and continue stirring until completely homogenized. Condition

[0218] Application of compositions

[0219] The compositions are easily applied to the lips, in a smooth, thin, comfortable layer. The layer does not run.

[0220] Once dry, it is virtually imperceptible, with no transfer (for example, the kiss test, for example on a cup).

[0221] Dry resistance, resistance to water and oil was evaluated according to the protocol below.

[0222] Performance evaluation protocol

[0223] Test Preparation#:

[0224] Support#: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).

[0225] Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in succession to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Optionally, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the application.

[0226] 2, Solicitations:

[0227] Prepare a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.

[0228] Dry resistance:

[0229] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. Optionally take a photo.

[0230] If multiple passes are required, they should be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e., after each pass, the tissue is lifted and repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Optionally, a photograph should be taken between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of procedure can be used to assess the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0231] Water resistance:

[0232] Insert the second made-up support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally, take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. Optionally take a photo.

[0233] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

[0234] Oil resistance:

[0235] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).

[0236] Notation:

[0237] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0238]

[0239]

[0240]

[0241]

[0242]

[0243]

[0244] [Tables 2] Note: Condition of the deposit. Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit. Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the substrate surface appears in places. Very intense coloration - very significant to total color transfer. Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense coloration of the deposit. Intense coloration - significant color transfer. + Decrease in the intensity of the deposit's color is perceptible but does not reveal the substrate. Medium coloration - medium color transfer. ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit. Slight coloration - little color transfer. +++ No variation in the color of the deposit. No coloration or barely visible coloration - little to no color transfer. It should be noted that to facilitate the assessment of the suitability of the deposit, it includes at least one colouring material whose colour is sufficiently intense (for example a red colouring material, such as Red 7 in particular). When comparing several compositions, they have the same shade (same quantity and same coloring matter). It should be noted that the performance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts enabling a description of technical characteristics - ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299 standards). Results#: [Tables 3] Composition Resistance to dry rubbing Resistance to wet rubbing Resistance to oil rubbing Comparison ++ + ++ invention 1 +++ +++ ++ invention 2 +++ +++ ++ Example 2: Two-step process (Combining a composition and a composition (M))

[0245] The following compositions (M) have been prepared

[0246] Composition (Ml)

[0247] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight Isododecane qsp 100 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials) 17.5 Lauroyl lysine 1.5 Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis) 26 Isododecane 20 Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gell ant - Dow Corning) 11 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Comi ng SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax - Dow Corning) 0.5

[0248] Preparation process Under Rayneri stirring, mix all the compounds together directly at 70°C. Once the tannic acid. Continue stirring until the mixture is homogeneous and allow to cool to room temperature. To condition.

[0249] Application of compositions

[0250] One of the compositions (Invention 1, Invention 2) of Example 1 is applied first in order to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the support (base coat).

[0251] Then, once the first composition has dried, a (Ml) or (M2) (top coat) composition is applied over it without mixing, according to the following combinations#:

[0252] [Tables5] Test 1 Test 2 Base coat Invention 1 Invention 2 Top coat (ml) (m²)

[0253] The conditions of the performance evaluation test are the same as those detailed for example 1, as are the notations.

[0254] Results#:

[0255] [Tableauxô] Dry abrasion resistance test, Wet abrasion resistance test, Oil abrasion resistance test Test 1 +++ +++ +++ Test 2 +++ +++ +++

Claims

Demands

1. A makeup and / or skin and / or lip care composition, preferably lip care, more particularly makeup, comprising a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y selected from linear, branched or crosslinked silicone compounds, preferably non-ionic polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol; The polyphenol content being at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that polyphenol X is selected from catechuic tannins, in particular selected from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.

4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular a maritime pine bark extract, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that polyphenol X is tannic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenol content is from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is selected from nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked polydimethylsiloxanes, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 20 units glycerolated, possibly including an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester(s) functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated motifs; and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is selected from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethyl-siloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosspolymer, dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compound Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C8 mono alcohol content is between 25 and 98% by weight, in particular between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably between 35 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises water, more particularly in a content less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 60% by weight, of preference between 1 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile silicone oil

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil, at a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight and even more precisely less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matter; in particular selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble colorants, fat-soluble colorants, and mixtures thereof.

17. A makeup and / or skincare method consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

18. A method for applying makeup to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) Applying to the skin and / or lips a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, said composition preferably comprising at least one colouring material; 2) Applying to the skin and / or lips thus treated, a composition (M) comprising at least one oil.

19. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (M) comprises at least one film-forming polymer, for example selected from silicone resins, silicone acrylate type copolymers, sequenced ethylenic polymers, ethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, preferably from compounds with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, ethylcellulose, acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobomyl acrylate copolymer, or mixtures thereof.