Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyglycerol ester, at least one coloring matter, a mono-alcohol and a limited water content, and method implementing it

Abstract

Title: Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyglycerol ester, at least one coloring matter, a mono-alcohol and a limited water content, and method implementing it The invention relates to a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, more particularly makeup, comprising: a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units; c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol; d) optionally water at a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one coloring matter.It also relates to a makeup and / or care process consisting of applying the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or the lips. The present invention further relates to a process for makeup of the skin and / or the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) A composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the lips; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or the lips thus treated.

Description

Title of the invention: Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyglycerol ester, at least one coloring matter, a mono-alcohol and a limited water content, and method implementing it

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one compound of polyphenol type, at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one coloring matter, at least 25% by weight of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally water at a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight.

[0002] Today on the skin and / or lip care and makeup market, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as for example trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer - INCI name).

[0003] For several years, consumers have become increasingly demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are seeking in particular to use products containing an increasingly high content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients which are compatible with numerous packagings.

[0004] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.

[0005] The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions allowing excellent retention of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup of the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, in particular makeup removal products, such as certain micellar waters, makeup remover wipes for example.

[0006] Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide compositions providing hold to expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup, associated with an acceptable level of comfort.

[0007] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention which relates to a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, preferably lips, more particularly makeup, comprising: (a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol; d) optionally water at a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (e) at least one coloring matter.

[0008] It also relates to a makeup and / or care process consisting of applying to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition as defined above.

[0009] The present invention further relates to a method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) A composition as defined above is applied to the skin and / or the lips; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0010] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

[0011] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), the body, the hands.

[0012] The makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0013] For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrogen bond interaction” means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and a heteroatom. electronegative of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) is(are) made between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with polyphenol X.

[0014] The present invention more particularly comprises the use of a coating agent obtained by interaction via hydrogen bonds, of at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y. More particularly, said coating agent is in the latent state in the composition according to the invention and only appears completely in situ, that is to say once the composition has been applied to the skin and / or the lips. In other words, in the composition according to the invention, before its application, the conditions (ingredients, contents) are such that they do not promote the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid form.

[0016] By “room temperature” is meant 25°C.

[0017] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1,013.105 Pascals.

[0018] POLYPHENOL X

[0019] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention comprise at least two different phenol groups in their structure.

[0020] By "polyphenol" is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0021] By “different phenol groups” is meant chemically different phenol groups.

[0022] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in the isolated state or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. The polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic cycle.

[0023] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0024] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechol tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.

[0026] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.

[0027] As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechol tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescaline, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, diffusisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanins.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract with the INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark with the INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

[0031] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.

[0032] Preferably, the polyphenol content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0033] Y COMPOUNDS

[0034] The compound(s) Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X are therefore chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition, do not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) Y are chosen from compounds whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, or even greater than 350 g / mol.

[0037] More particularly, the compounds Y are chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derived from vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compounds Y are chosen from nonionic polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derived from vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acids may further comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids. The polyglycerolated compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or triesters.

[0038] As examples of compounds Y, the following compounds can be cited, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, esters apricot kernel oil (apricot kernel oil) polyglycerolated compounds comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units, as well as their mixtures.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, and even more advantageously between 3 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0040] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0041] C2-C8 MONO ALCOHOL

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5. As examples, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, and even more preferably ethanol.

[0043] Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol is such that compounds X and Y do not react together in the composition, before its application. Said mono-alcohol can thus be considered as a hydrogen bond inhibitor. By "hydrogen bond inhibiting agent" is meant any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between polyphenol X and compound Y and / or of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds.

[0044] More particularly, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] WATER AND WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENTS

[0046] The composition may optionally comprise water. This may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0047] More particularly, the water content is less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of the composition is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0049] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, the water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.

[0050] If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0051] The composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0052] COLORING MATTER

[0053] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0054] More particularly, the content of coloring matter(s) in the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] The coloring material(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Pigments

[0057] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0058] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0059] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0060] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0061] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0062] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the granulometric distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows to determine an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0063] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0064] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. For example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0065] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0066] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0067] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0068] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0069] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0070] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0071] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0073] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0074] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0075] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0076] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0077] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0078] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0079] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0080] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0081] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0082] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0083] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0084] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluoro-silicone surface agents; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0087] According to another particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0088] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0089] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0090] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0091] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0092] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0093] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0094] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0095] The pigment(s) are preferably present at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring matter content is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants

[0097] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.

[0098] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0099] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

[0100] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

[0101] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, we can cite anthocyanins.

[0102] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.

[0103] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly cite carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0104] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in the composition at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] OIL PHASE

[0106] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention, preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.

[0107] The term “oily phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, different from the Y compounds, such as oils, waxes, pasty substances and possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0108] Oils

[0109] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0112] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0113] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a pressure of steam ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0114] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0115] Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0116] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore apolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as of the ester type. In particular, they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, - branched C8-Ci6 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - their mixtures.

[0117] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

[0118] Volatile silicone oils

[0119] Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, inter alia, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as their mixtures.

[0120] As examples of such oils, mention may be made of octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0121] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0122] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one atom oxygen. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether.

[0123] As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pothnarron, pumpkin, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with at least one such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene dioctanoate glycol, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate,octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; , - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, we may notably mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - esters and polyesters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, for example with the INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures.

[0124] Non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils

[0125] The oil can also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated, apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0126] The non-volatile, linear or branched, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0127] Said apolar, linear or branched oils can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C15-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures.

[0128] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0129] The non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0130] For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0131] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is chosen from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0132] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values ​​in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0133] More particularly, the oily phase concentration of the composition, if present, is between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0134] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Preferably, according to this variant, the oil(s) are chosen from polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils. Preferably, the non-volatile oil is not chosen from silicone non-volatile oils.

[0135] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based. More particularly, the content of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition does not comprise any volatile silicone oil.

[0136] Waxes

[0137] The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.

[0138] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0139] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

[0140] The measurement protocol is as follows: A wax sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0141] The waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0142] More particularly, the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as their mixtures.

[0143] Among the apolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e. comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), mention may in particular be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0144] Among the polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms), waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and / or ether group are suitable.

[0145] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montane wax, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used as wax.

[0146] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0147] Also suitable are waxes of the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate type, alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0148] As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C30-C50 alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0149] The content of wax(es), if the composition comprises any, varies between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Pasty compounds

[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty body is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0152] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the quantity of energy required to pass the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0153] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

[0154] - vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii ButteR, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

[0155] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as soybean oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0156] - esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,

[0157] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0158] - polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-C10 and of diglycerol ester and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and of INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

[0159] - polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example: * esters of dimer diol (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid esters, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0160] Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI name Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof.

[0161] If the composition comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound, its / their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0163] The composition may also comprise any additional ingredient conventional in the field. Examples include antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active ingredients such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Antioxidants

[0165] In particular, antioxidant agents are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol X. They can be chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and meta bisulfite, thiol-type reducers, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as fat-soluble colorants.

[0166] These additives may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0168] MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE METHODS

[0169] According to a first variant of the invention, the composition is applied to the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips.

[0170] According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention, the following steps are implemented: 1) A composition as described above is applied to the skin and / or lips; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0171] More particularly, the second composition is applied to the first composition, without mixing. Preferably, the second composition is applied after at least partial drying of the composition deposited in the first step. Usually, the second composition is applied a few minutes after the first.

[0172] Composition (M)

[0173] The composition (M) comprises at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils indicated previously.

[0174] The composition (M) may also optionally comprise at least one coloring material chosen from those defined above.

[0175] The composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymer, or a mixture.

[0176] Examples of silicone film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include silicone resins, such as resins with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are polymers with the following INCI names: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] The film-forming polymer may also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or block ethylenic copolymers such as, for example, acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).

[0178] If the composition (M) comprises it, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously varies between 0.1 and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M).

[0179] The composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as pasty compounds, in particular hydrocarbons such as for example compounds such as vegetable butters (for example shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (for example bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; waxes, in particular hydrocarbons, polar (for example ester type) or apolar (for example polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, etc.); organic solvents; thickeners; fillers, colorless or white, lamellar, spherical or in the form of fibers; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents.

[0180] Composition (M) may or may not comprise water.

[0181] The composition (M) may be a product, in particular makeup and / or care. of the skin, face, cheeks, eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, they then contain at least one coloring matter as defined previously.

[0182] The compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, anhydrous oily compositions or multiphase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, bi- or triphasic compositions.

[0183] The compositions (M) for the skin can also be in solid form and hot-cast.

[0184] The compositions (M) for the skin, in particular for makeup, can also be eye shadows or blushers, and are more particularly presented in the form of loose or compact powder.

[0185] By “compact powder” is meant a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction during manufacturing.

[0186] By “loose powder” is meant a mass of product which is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed of particles which are predominantly isolated and mobile relative to each other.

[0187] The makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder, preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one pulverulent phase, in a content in particular greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, in particular a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.

[0189] The compositions (M) for the lips can be in solid form such as a stick or cup products or even in liquid form.

[0190] They can be anhydrous or aqueous, in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.

[0191] Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, in particular in the form of a dispersion of particles (latex).

[0192] PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

[0193] The compositions (A), (B) (C), (D) and / or (M) according to the invention may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0194] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

[0195] The closing element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closing of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.

[0196] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of an element, deformable or not, made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closing element, as described for example in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2,761,959.

[0197] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0198] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

[0199] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0200] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0201] The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0202] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

[0203] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0204] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0205] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0206] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0207] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

[0208] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. Examples

[0209] Example 1

[0210] The following composition was prepared:

[0211] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) Composition 1% by weight Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 15 Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate (SunSoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagak u) 5 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Tegosoft PC 41 - EVONIK Goldsch midt) 5 Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate (SunSoft A-121E-C - Taiyo Kagaku) ​​5 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR - Sensient) 10 Ethanol Qsp 100

[0212] Preparation process When cold, mix Rayneri, tannic acid and ethanol while stirring. Then, introduce the polyglycerolated compounds once the tannic acid has dissolved. Sprinkle the Red 7 pigment and let it stir for 15 minutes.

[0213] Evaluation

[0214] The mixture obtained is not stable over time: it separates phases but by simple manual stirring, the pigments are redispersed and the formula remains homogeneous for the duration of the makeup.

[0215] For lip makeup, the formula is very easy to apply with a dip applicator, allowing you to obtain a very thin film on the lips, with an intense, even color.

[0216] The deposit lasts over time while being comfortable.

[0217] The composition does not transfer (e.g. kiss on the hand test).

[0218] The composition was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical aggression and chemicals: dry rubbing, water and oil.

[0219] Performance evaluation protocol

[0220] L Test Preparation#:

[0221] Support#: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).

[0222] Spread composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Possibly take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the request.

[0223] 2, Requests:

[0224] Preparation of a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice the other way to form a square.

[0225] Dry resistance:

[0226] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up surfaces; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing make-up from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.

[0227] In the case where several passes are made, they would then be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e.: after each pass, the handkerchief is lifted to be repositioned at the “start” of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0228] Water resistance:

[0229] Insert the second coated support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. If necessary, take a photo of the media after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.

[0230] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

[0231] Oil resistance:

[0232] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).

[0233] Rating:

[0234] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0235] [Tables2] Note State of the deposit Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense staining - very significant to total transfer of the color - Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit. Intense staining - significant transfer of the color + Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit perceptible but which does not reveal the support Medium staining - average transfer of the color ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Slight staining - little transfer of the color +++ No variation in the color of the deposit No staining or barely visible staining - no to very little transfer of the color

[0236] It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the resistance of the deposit, the latter comprises at least one coloring material whose coloring is sufficiently intense (for example a red coloring material, such as Red 7 in particular).

[0237] In the case of comparison of several compositions, the latter have the same shade (same quantity and same coloring matter).

[0238] It should be noted that the resistance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts enabling a description of technical characteristics to be obtained - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).

[0239] Results

[0240] [Tables3] Dry resistance Water resistance Oil resistance +++ ++ +++

[0241] Example 2

[0242] The following composition was prepared:

[0243] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) Composition 2% by weight Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 5 Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate (SunSoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagaku) ​​7.5 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR - Sensient) 10 Ethanol Qsp 100

[0244] Preparation Method When cold, mix Rayneri, tannic acid and ethanol while stirring. Then, introduce the Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate once the tannic acid is dissolved. Sprinkle the Red 7 pigment and let it stir for 15 minutes...

[0245] Evaluation

[0246] The mixture obtained is not stable over time: it separates phases but by simple manual stirring, the pigments are redispersed and the formula remains homogeneous for the duration of the makeup.

[0247] For lip makeup, the formula is very easy to apply with a dip applicator, allowing you to obtain a very thin film on the lips, with an intense, even color.

[0248] The deposit lasts over time while being comfortable.

[0249] The composition does not transfer (e.g. kiss on the hand test).

[0250] Results

[0251] The performance of the composition was evaluated in accordance with the protocol detailed in Example 1.

[0252] [[Tables 5] Dry resistance Water resistance Oil resistance +++ +++ +++

Claims

Claims

1. Makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, more particularly makeup, comprising a) at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one compound Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units; c) from 25 to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol; d) optionally water at a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one coloring matter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.

4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenol X content is between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y have a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound Y is chosen from esters, preferably non-ionic, of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of carboxylic acid or of polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, or derivatives of vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from non-ionic polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, or derivatives of vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y are chosen from the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate. Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, as well as mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compound Y represents from 2 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably between 35 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight and even more precisely less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matters; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

16. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.

17. Method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is applied to the skin and / or the lips; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or the lips thus treated.