Make-up process with the application of a composition comprising a polyphenol and a polyoxyalkylene compound, and a coloring matter then application of an anhydrous composition

Abstract

Title: Makeup process with the application of a composition comprising a polyphenol and a polyoxyalkylenated compound, and a coloring matter then application of an anhydrous composition The subject of the invention is a process for making up the skin and / or the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) applying to the skin and / or the lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least one compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, silicone or hydrocarbon, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated; this step taking place in the presence of at least one coloring matter; 2) applying to the skin and / or the lips thus treated, an anhydrous composition (M).

Description

Title of the invention: Makeup process with the application of a composition comprising a polyphenol and a polyoxyalkylenated compound, and a coloring material then application of an anhydrous composition

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a process for making up the skin and / or the lips, in several stages, in which a coating agent formed in situ or previously is used, by interaction by hydrogen bond(s) of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least one particular polyoxyalkylenated compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, in the presence of at least one coloring matter, followed by the application of an anhydrous composition.

[0002] Today on the market for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as for example trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer - INCI name).

[0003] For several years, consumers have become increasingly demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are seeking in particular to use products containing an increasingly high content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients which are compatible with numerous packagings.

[0004] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.

[0005] The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions allowing excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup of the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cosmetic products. cleaning, particularly makeup removal, such as certain micellar water makeup remover wipes, for example.

[0006] Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide compositions and application methods providing hold to expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup, associated with an acceptable level of comfort.

[0007] These and other objectives are achieved by implementing the method of making up the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps 1) a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction via hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least one compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, silicone or hydrocarbon, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, is applied to the skin and / or the lips; this step taking place in the presence of at least one coloring matter; 2) an anhydrous composition (M) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0008] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

[0009] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), the body, the hands.

[0010] The makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0011] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrogen bond interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) is(are) made between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of the polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of the compounds Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with the polyphenol X.

[0012] By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.

[0013] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1,013.105 Pascals.

[0014] POLYPHENOL X

[0015] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention comprise at least two different phenol groups in their structure.

[0016] By “polyphenol” is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0017] By “different phenol groups” is meant chemically different phenol groups.

[0018] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in the isolated state or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. The polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic cycle.

[0019] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0020] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavonoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.

[0022] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.

[0023] As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols.

[0024] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechic tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, diffusinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurine, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanins.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract with the INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark with the INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

[0027] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.

[0028] Y COMPOUNDS

[0029] The compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X is therefore chosen from silicone or hydrocarbon compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition, do not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

[0031] In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 200 g / mol, or even greater than 350 g / mol.

[0032] Preferably, compound Y is chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester and ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0033] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds

[0034] Non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, comprising optionally an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as their mixtures.

[0035] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0036] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols

[0037] Among the compounds of this type, we can cite, alone or in mixtures:

[0038] Poloxyethylated fatty alcohols of type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing a C8-C3o alkyl radical, or representing an average integer number ranging from 2 to 50 in particular selected from Ceteth-2, Cete-10, Cete-20, Ceteth-2 Ceteth-25, and Ceteth-40, l'Isoceteth-20, and Laureth-2, and Laureth-3, and Laureth-4, and Laureth-12, and Laureth-23, l'Oleth-2, l'Oleth-5, l'Oleth-10, l'Oleth-20, l'Oleth-2, and Deceth-3, and Deceth-5, and Beheneth-10, and Steareth-2, and Steareth-10, and Steareth-20, and Steareth-21, and Steareth-100, and Ceteareth-10, and Ceteareth-12, and Ceteareth-15, and Ceteareth-20, and Ceteareth-25, and Ceteareth-30, and Ceteareth-30, and Ceteareth-30 the Coceth-7, the Trideceth-12, and their mixtures.

[0039] Polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C3o alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. In particular, these compounds are chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin

[0041] We can cite in particular, alone or in mixtures:

[0042] Polyoxyethylenated glycerins, in particular oxyethylenated glycerin 26 EO (Glycereth-26).

[0043] Polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol.

[0044] Compounds of the type: R-(O-CH2-CH2)oO-CH2-CH(R')OH in particular Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol.

[0045] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.

[0046] Compounds of the type H(O-CR-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(R)HO)rH in particular PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer.

[0047] Polyethylene glycols

[0048] As regards these compounds, the latter may be chosen, alone or in mixtures, from polyethylene glycols of the H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH type, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] The Poloxamers

[0050] Suitable for carrying out the invention are Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the following formula: HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)o (CH2-CH2-O)PH, and for example chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, as well as their mixtures.

[0051] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters

[0052] Suitable for example:

[0053] Esters of polyethylene glycol and acid of the type: R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qOR or RO-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R In which R represent, identical or not, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, in C2-C20; n, p, q, average whole numbers, identical or not, varying from 2 to 150.

[0054] They may in particular be chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propyleneglycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s) optionally hydroxylated at C6-C40, more particularly at C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or in mixtures. Examples of such esters include PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel OR PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyoxyethylene Palm Glycerides (200 EO) and Polyoxyethylene Coconut Glycerides (7 EO), and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Polyoxyethylene butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter.

[0057] Polyoxyethylenated waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylenated jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters, in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.

[0059] PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate.

[0060] Polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters in particular chosen from PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.

[0061] Polyoxyethylenated glycerol esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate,

[0062] Polyoxyethylenated lanolins such as Laneth-15.

[0063] Their mixtures.

[0064] Polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate

[0065] These compounds are more particularly chosen from esters of sorbitol or sorbitan (also called sorbitan) and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or not, in C6-C4o, advantageously in C8-C30, and comprise 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units.

[0066] Among the Polysorbates (INCI names), we may particularly mention the compounds with the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, as well as their mixtures. Among the esters, we may mention, for example, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.

[0067] Ester or ether derivatives of polyoxyethylenated sugars

[0068] Sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives such as, for example, polyoxyethylenated polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as, for example, the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0069] Polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines

[0070] Suitable for carrying out the invention are polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, more particularly of formula RN[(CH2-CH2-O)H]q[(CH2-CH2-O)rH] with R representing a hydrocarbon group, saturated or not, in C8-C30, and q or r, identical or not, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50 and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine. Polyoxyethylenated polyamines such as for example PEG-15 Cocopolyamine may also be suitable.

[0071] Preferably, compound Y is chosen from the following compounds: - Non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, (poly)oxyethylenated and / or (poly)oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as mixtures thereof; - Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average whole number ranging from 2 to 50; - Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average whole number ranging from 1 to 50; as well as their mixtures; - Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, C6-C40, more particularly C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being (poly)oxyethylenated, comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylenated units; as well as mixtures thereof; - Esters of sorbitan and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or not, C8-C30, polyoxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; and in particular Polysorbate; as well as their mixtures; - polyoxyethylenated alkylamines; the C8-C30 alkyl group, the number of oxyethylenated units between 1 and 50; as well as their mixtures; - polyethylene glycols; - their mixtures.

[0072] COMPOSITION (A) COMPRISING POLYPHENOL(S) X

[0073] More particularly, the composition (A) has a content of polyphenol(s) X of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A). Preferably the content of polyphenol(s) X is between 2 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0074] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises water. It may be, for example, demineralized water, or a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or a thermal water. More particularly, the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0075] Composition (A) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5. Examples that may be mentioned are ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol and even more preferably ethanol.

[0076] Preferably, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0077] The pH of composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0078] Composition (A) may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0079] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition (A) is anhydrous.

[0080] The term "anhydrous composition" means any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight, or even less than 1% by weight; relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of water. Preferably, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.

[0081] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises an oily phase.

[0082] The term “oily phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, different from the Y compounds, such as oils, waxes, pasty substances and possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0083] Oils

[0084] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] By “oil” is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0087] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0088] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0089] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0090] Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0091] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore apolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as of the ester type. In particular, they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, - branched C8-Ci6 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - their mixtures.

[0092] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

[0093] Volatile silicone oils

[0094] Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, inter alia, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as their mixtures.

[0095] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0096] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0097] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether.

[0098] As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with at least one such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene dioctanoate glycol, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate,octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononanoate, isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - esters and polyesters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, for example with the INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures.

[0099] Non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils

[0100] The oil can also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated, apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0101] The non-volatile, linear or branched, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0102] Said apolar, linear or branched oils can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C15-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures.

[0103] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0104] The non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0105] For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0106] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is chosen from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0107] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0108] When composition (A) is anhydrous, preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.

[0109] Waxes

[0110] The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0112] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

[0113] The measurement protocol is as follows: A wax sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule. The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0114] The waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0115] More particularly, the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as their mixtures.

[0116] Among the apolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e. comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), mention may in particular be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0117] Among the polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms), waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and / or ether group are suitable.

[0118] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montane wax, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used as wax.

[0119] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0120] Also suitable are waxes of the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate type, alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0121] As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C30-C50 alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0122] Pasty compounds

[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty body is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0124] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in solid crystalline form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0125] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

[0126] - vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii ButteR, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

[0127] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as soybean oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0128] - esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,

[0129] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0130] - polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-C10 and of diglycerol ester and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

[0131] - polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example: * esters of dimer diol (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid esters, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0132] Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI name Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof.

[0133] When composition (A) is anhydrous, the concentration in oily phase of said composition is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0134] COMPOSITION (B) COMPRISING THE Y COMPOUNDS

[0135] The content of compound(s) Y in composition (B) advantageously represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0136] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) comprising the compound(s) Y comprises at least water. It may be, for example, a demineralized water, or even floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0137] The quantity of water is preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0138] Composition (B) may also comprise at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5. Examples that may be mentioned are ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, preferably ethanol.

[0139] Preferably, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0140] The pH of composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0141] Composition (B) may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0142] According to another embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0143] According to another embodiment, composition (B) may comprise at least an oily phase as defined previously.

[0144] When composition (B) is anhydrous, preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isodecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and more particularly isododecane.

[0145] When composition (B) is anhydrous, the concentration in oily phase of the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0146] Preferably, if composition (B) comprises an oily phase, the latter comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil. It preferably does not contain any silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile.

[0147] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the compositions (A) and (B) so that they are compatible and can be mixed and the quantities make it possible to obtain in the mixture obtained, the formation of a coating agent. by interaction by hydrogen bonds of polyphenol X with compounds Y as defined.

[0148] COMPOSITION (C)

[0149] The present invention also relates to a composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X with at least two compounds Y, as defined previously.

[0150] Pre-formed coating agent

[0151] The coating agent present in the compositions of the invention is obtained by reacting by interaction via hydrogen bonds, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y; these compounds being as described previously.

[0152] Advantageously, the content of pre-formed coating agent varies from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0153] Process for preparing the coating agent

[0154] The reaction medium may be aqueous, hydrophilic or anhydrous. Ideally, the solvent in which the preparation of the coating agent is carried out is easily removable, in particular by evaporation. Thus, the coating agent may advantageously be synthesized in water or in a volatile oil such as those indicated above, preferably isododecane.

[0155] The polyphenol X and the compounds Y are preferably introduced into the reaction medium with a ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of the compounds Y, expressed as active material, varying between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0156] The order of introduction does not matter. The contact time can be very rapid or it can be left to incubate with shaking (a few hours).

[0157] The precipitate obtained corresponding to the coating agent is recovered either by filtration of the solvent or centrifugation or by evaporation of the solvent.

[0158] The precipitate is then washed several times so as to remove the initial reagents which were not involved in the formation of the precipitate. The washing solvent is more particularly chosen from the solvents of polyphenol X and / or of the associated compounds Y. Ideally, the washing solvent is water.

[0159] The number of washes can be determined by measuring the polyphenol X recovered in the wash water. When the rate is low, it can be considered that the excess reagents have been eliminated. The quantity of solvent present in the precipitate is more particularly less than 40% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate, or even less than 35% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate.

[0160] The precipitate can then be dried, in particular in the open air, under a heated atmosphere, under vacuum or freeze-dried.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (C) comprises at least water. It may in particular be demineralized water, or else a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or a thermal water.

[0162] Depending on the nature of the aqueous composition (C), the quantity of water is preferably greater than 30% by weight, or even greater than 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 30 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0163] The composition comprises at least one coloring material which will be described later.

[0164] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (C) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined previously.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (C) is anhydrous.

[0166] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (C) may be in a multiphase form, for example in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which an oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture), in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).

[0167] When composition (C) contains water, the pH of the aqueous phase is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0168] When composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the latter comprises at least one oil

[0169] When the composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the concentration of oily phase is preferably greater than 10% by weight, or even greater than 20% by weight, and more preferably varies from 30 to 75% relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0170] Preferably, if the composition (C) comprises an oily phase, the latter comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil. It preferably does not contain any silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile.

[0171] When composition (C) is an emulsion, it may comprise one or more emulsifying surfactants.

[0172] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants Emulsifiers are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. The HLB is greater than 8 for the preparation of O / W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0173] According to a preferred form of the invention, when the composition (C) is anhydrous, the oily phase of the composition (C) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and particularly isododecane.

[0174] The quantity of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) may preferably range from 20% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (C).

[0175] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in order to improve the dispersibility of the coating agent homogeneously in the composition (C), a thickening system (polymers, waxes or pasty bodies), a suspending agent or an emulsifying system, in particular of the lamellar phase type, can be added.

[0176] COMPOSITION (D)

[0177] Another subject of the invention relates to a composition (D) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined previously, b) at least two compounds Y as defined previously, and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, even more preferably ethanol.

[0178] In this composition, the coating agent is in a latent state and only appears completely in situ, that is to say once the composition (D) has been applied to the skin and / or the lips. In other words, in the composition (D), before its application, the conditions (ingredients, contents) are such that they do not promote the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.

[0179] Preferably, the content of polyphenol X in composition (D) is at least 1.0% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight and even more particularly from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition.

[0180] Preferably, the content of compounds Y in composition (D) represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0181] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0182] Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, in particular ethanol, is such that the compounds X and Y do not react in the composition (D) before its application. Said mono-alcohol can thus be considered as a hydrogen bond inhibitor. By "hydrogen bond inhibiting agent" is meant any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between the polyphenol X and the compounds Y and / or of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds. More particularly, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol is at least 25% by weight, in particular between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

[0183] According to a first embodiment of the invention, composition (D) comprises water. Here again, it may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or thermal water.

[0184] More particularly, the composition (D) comprises a water content of less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D). According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of the composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0185] If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0186] The composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0187] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (D) comprises an oily phase.

[0188] Reference may be made to the definition of the oily phase detailed previously during the description of composition (A).

[0189] More particularly, when composition (D) comprises it, the oily phase content is between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0190] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0191] According to another variant of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a volatile silicone oil. Preferably, the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based. More particularly, the content of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition (D) does not comprise any volatile silicone oil.

[0193] Composition (D) is advantageously in a liquid form.

[0194] Composition (D) may also comprise at least one wax. Reference may be made to the list indicated previously in the description of composition (A). The content of wax(es), if composition (D) comprises any, generally varies between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0195] Composition (D) may optionally contain at least one pasty compound, as described previously in the description of composition (A). If composition (D) comprises any, the content of pasty compound(s) is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] Composition (D) may further be in a single-phase or multi-phase form, in particular in the form of a two-phase composition. It should be noted that the phases may or may not be under-dispersed in one another.

[0197] COLORING MATTER

[0198] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring materials.

[0199] More particularly, the content of coloring matter(s) of composition (A) and / or (B), of composition (C), of composition (D) is at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.

[0200] The coloring matter may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] Pigments

[0202] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0203] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0204] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0205] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0206] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0207] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0208] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0209] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0210] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0211] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0212] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0213] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0214] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0215] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0216] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0217] According to a particular embodiment, the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0218] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0219] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0220] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0221] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0222] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0223] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0224] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0225] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0226] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0227] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0228] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0229] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

[0231] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0232] According to another particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0233] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0234] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0235] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0236] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0237] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0238] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0239] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0240] The pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring matter content is less than 50% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition concerned (A), (B), (C) and / or (D).

[0241] Water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants

[0242] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.

[0243] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0244] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

[0245] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

[0246] Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.

[0247] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.

[0248] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly cite carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0249] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), (B), (C) or (D).

[0250] COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0251] The compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) of the invention may contain additives customary in cosmetics. Mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0252] Antioxidants

[0253] In particular, antioxidant agents are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol X. They may be chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and meta bisulfite, thiol-type reducers, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as fat-soluble colorants.

[0254] These additives may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0255] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0256] Compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0257] COMPOSITION (M)

[0258] The process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of an anhydrous composition (M).

[0259] Composition (M) comprises at least one oil and optionally at least one coloring matter chosen from those defined previously.

[0260] The composition (M) in accordance with the invention may be a product, in particular a makeup or care product, or even a hybrid product (in other words with a makeup and care action).

[0261] Composition (M) is more particularly a product intended to be applied to the lips, in particular a lipstick, lip gloss and lip balm.

[0262] The compositions (M) for the lips can advantageously be presented in a fluid (gloss) to solid (stick) form.

[0263] By “fluid” (or liquid) we mean in particular a composition which is not solid at 25°C, and of which it is possible to measure a viscosity.

[0264] By “solid” we mean in particular a composition whose hardness can be measured according to the so-called “butter wire” method at 20°C.

[0265] Between these two extremes, there are intermediate textures whose viscosity and hardness cannot be measured using the methods detailed below. Such compositions are then described as pasty.

[0266] Preferably, the composition (M) is not in stick form. It is advantageously in fluid or pasty form, and preferably in fluid form.

[0267] Protocol for viscosity measurement

[0268] The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle No. 2, No. 3 or a spindle No. 4, according to the usage recommendations, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the composition at a speed of 200 rpm.

[0269] By way of example, the composition may have a viscosity of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s at 25°C.

[0270] Hardness measurement protocol

[0271] The composition in stick form is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0272] The measurement is carried out at 20°C and consists of transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical in revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min.

[0273] The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm-1, is measured using a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by the company INDELCO-CHATILLON.

[0274] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the largest dimension crossed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0275] Hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation: (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L.

[0276] For example, the composition may have a hardness of between 20 and 200 Nm1.

[0277] More particularly, the composition (M) comprises at least one oil.

[0278] Among the oils, one can refer to the lists indicated previously.

[0279] Depending on the galenic of the composition, the oil content may vary. usually from 10 to 100% by weight, in particular from 15 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0280] Composition (M) may optionally comprise at least one wax. Reference may again be made to the detailed description previously for composition (A).

[0281] The content of this type of ingredient varies according to the galenic of the composition. For example, the content of wax(es), if this type of ingredient is present in the composition, varies from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, even more particularly between 0.5 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0282] Composition (M) may optionally comprise at least one pasty compound, preferably hydrocarbon-based, as described previously.

[0283] If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, preferably the content varies from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0284] Hydrophobic film-forming polymer

[0285] Very advantageously, the composition (M) comprises at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, in particular chosen from block hydrocarbon polymers; from silicone polymers such as in particular silicone resins, silicone acrylate polymers with carbosiloxane dendrimer units, silicone acrylate copolymers; ethylcellulose, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0286] Silicone resins

[0287] More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for example, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin, within the meaning of the present invention.

[0288] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0289] The letter “M” represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0290] The letter “D” signifies a Difunctional unit RlR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms

[0291] The letter “T” represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.

[0292] Such resins are described for example in “Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.

[0293] In the M, D, T patterns defined above, Ri, namely RB R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0294] Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

[0295] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.

[0296] As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of the MQ type, of the T type or of the MQT type.

[0297] MQ Resins

[0298] As an example of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,

[0299] Examples of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type include those marketed under the reference SR1000 by the company Momentive Performances Materials, under the reference MQ 1600 by Dow Corning, under the reference Belsil TMS 803 by the company Wacker.

[0300] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 marketed by the company Momentive Performances Materials). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in patent US5817302.

[0301] T Resins

[0302] As examples of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes being able to further comprise Si-OH terminal groups.

[0303] Mention may also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described for example in document US 5,246,694.

[0304] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins may be used in which R represents a methyl group, such as, for example, those marketed: - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating CH3SiO3 / 2 units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups, - by the company Dow Corning under the references Dow Corning 670 Fluid, Dow Corning 680 Fluid, in mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and in isododecane respectively.

[0305] MQT Resins

[0306] As a resin comprising MQT units, those cited in document US 5,110,890 are known in particular.

[0307] A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0308] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiOi / 2)a; (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b; (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d; with RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; a, b, c and d being molar fractions, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = l, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0309] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units (i) (Rl3SiOi / 2)a; (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d with Ri and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, Ri preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, a + b + c + d = l,eta, b, cetd being mole fractions, provided that more than 40 mole % of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

[0310] The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (Rl3SiOi / 2)a and (SiO4 / 2)d RI units representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units, R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.

[0311] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits.

[0312] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one resin of type MQ, of type T, and even more preferably at least one resin of type MQ, as described above. In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

[0313] Ethylene block copolymer

[0314] According to another embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a block ethylenic copolymer, containing at least one first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, said first block and said second block being linked together by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second monomers constituting the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2.

[0315] Polymers of this type suitable for the invention are described in document EP 1 411 069.

[0316] As an example of such polymers, mention may more particularly be made of the copolymers with the INCI name acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobomyl acrylate copolymer marketed for example under the name MEXOMERE PAS® by Chimex (as a 50% mixture in isododecane).

[0317] Vinyl polymer comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit

[0318] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (M) may comprise at least one vinyl polymer comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0319] This type of vinyl polymer has in particular a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.

[0320] In particular, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit may be used as described in applications WO03 / 045337 and EP 963 751 from Dow Corning.

[0321] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure having branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese Laid-Open Patent Application Kokai 9-171 154.

[0322] A vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit has a side molecular chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and may be derived from the polymerization: (A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and (B) from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a radical-polymerizable organic group, represented by the general formula [Chem 1] in which Y represents an organic group polymerizable by radicals, R1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X1 represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the formula: [Chem 2] F b? "1 sc—Po—| I R1 I wherein R1 is as defined above, R2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X1+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and a1 is an integer from 0 to 3; wherein said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is selected from *organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the formulas: CH2=C-(R4)-COO-R5- and CH2=C(R4)-CO-NH-R5-; in which R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and *organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the formula: [Chem 3] wherein R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, -(R8)c- represents a bond.

[0323] The vinyl-type monomer which is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer which contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.

[0324] There is no particular limitation with respect to such a monomer.

[0325] The following are examples of this vinyl-type monomer: methacrylate methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a lower alkyl methacrylate analog; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher methacrylate analog; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a lower fatty acid vinyl ester analog; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or a higher analogous fatty acid ester;styrene, vinyl toluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, or analogous aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or analogous vinyl monomers that contain a carboxylic acid group;tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, or a similar vinyl monomer with ether linkages; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound having unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether;an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid; a radically polymerizable unsaturated monomer having a sulfonic acid group such as a styrene sulfonic acid group; ; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and an ester of the acid methacrylic acid of an alcohol having a tertiary amine group such as an ester of methacrylic acid and diethylamine.

[0326] Multifunctional vinyl-type monomers can also be used.

[0327] The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethylmethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, styryl-capped polydimethylsiloxane having divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or analogous silicone compounds having unsaturated groups.

[0328] To facilitate the preparation of the mixture of the raw material of cosmetic products, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer, can be chosen in the range between 3,000 g / mol and 2,000,000 g / mol, preferably between 5,000 g / mol and 800,000 g / mol. It can be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder, or any other form. The preferred forms are solutions constituted by the dilution in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil, of a dispersion, or of a powder.

[0329] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0330] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be obtained from the polymerization: (A) from 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s); and B) from 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0331] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit may comprise a tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit corresponding to one of the formulas: [Chem 4] Or [Chem 5] I / CH, 1 ; [ - ir" s HC—CH O! CH, \ CH.

[0332] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0333] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may further comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application WO 03 / 045337.

[0334] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer within the meaning of the present invention may be carried in an oil or a mixture of oil(s), preferably volatile oil(s) in particular, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.

[0335] According to a particular embodiment, a silicone oil suitable for the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.

[0336] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be isododecane.

[0337] The vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit which may be particularly suitable for the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220, FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Corning. Preferably, the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Corning will be used.

[0338] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit usable in a composition of the invention is a copolymer with the INCI name Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, in particular that marketed in isododecane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID silicone acrylate by the company Dow Corning.

[0339] Silicone acrylate copolymers

[0340] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (M) comprises at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0341] By "copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is meant in the present application, a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0342] In the present application, the term "carboxylic monomer" means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers. Thus, the monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, their esters and mixtures of these monomers. As esters, the following monomers may be mentioned: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconoate and / or crotonoate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in the form of esters are more particularly chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably C1-C24 and better still C1-C22, the alkyl radical being preferentially chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0343] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups, at least one group chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0344] In the present application, the term “polydimethylsiloxanes” is intended to mean » (also called organopolysiloxanes or, in abbreviation, PDMS), in accordance with the general acceptance, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond °Si-O-Si°), comprising trimethyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom on said silicon atoms.The PDMS chains that can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can have for example a polymerizable radical group on both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl terminal group on the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group can be in particular an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a group. CH2= CRi - CO - O - R2, where Ri represents a hydrogen or a methyl group, and R2 represents -CH2-, -(CH2)n- with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O- CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-, -ch2-ch2-o-ch2 ch2-o-ch2-ch2-ch2-,

[0345] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual polymerization and grafting methods, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560.

[0346] The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol and preferably from approximately 5,000 g / mol to 100,000 g / mol.

[0347] The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be present as such or in dispersed form in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).

[0348] As copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made, as copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention, of the copolymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 where the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and Isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 where the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, KP561 is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being approximately 30°C.

[0349] Mention may also be made of the graft copolymer of polyacrylic and dimethylpolysiloxane dissolved in isododecane marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the name KP-550.

[0350] Alkylcellulose

[0351] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (M) comprises at least alkylcellulose whose alkyl residue comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, and preferably ethylcellulose.

[0352] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose comprising a chain consisting of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + R'Cl to ROR'+ NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents a C2-C6 alkyl radical.

[0353] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose may be chosen from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, and preferably ethylcellulose.

[0354] The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

[0355] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44 to 50%.

[0356] The alkylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0357] It is for example marketed under the trade names "ETHOCEL Standard" from Dow Chemicals, including "ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium" and "ETHOCEL standard 100 FP Premium". Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0358] Preferably, the composition (M) comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobomyl acrylate copolymer ethylcellulose, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one silicone film-forming polymer.

[0359] If the composition (M) comprises them, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously varies between 0.1 and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M).

[0360] The composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as organic solvents; thickening agents; fillers; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents.

[0361] MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE METHODS

[0362] From compositions (A) and (B)

[0363] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) a) at least one composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined above is applied to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips; and 1) b) at least one composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y as defined above; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and / or the lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; one and / or the other of compositions (A) and (B) comprising at least one coloring material, preferably composition (A); 2) an anhydrous composition (M) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0364] Advantageously, the composition (M) is applied to the composition obtained from the end of the first step, without mixing. It is also preferably applied after at least partial drying of the composition deposited during the first step. As an indication, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.

[0365] First step

[0366] The first step can be carried out by applying composition (A) first, then composition (B).

[0367] According to another variant, composition (B) is applied first, then composition (A) over the first.

[0368] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0369] This operation preferably takes place without mixing the two layers together, more particularly the second layer is applied over the first, once the latter has dried.

[0370] Either of compositions (A) and (B) may be aqueous or anhydrous.

[0371] Alternatively, one of the two compositions is aqueous, while the other is anhydrous.

[0372] According to a characteristic of the process according to the invention, this first step is carried out in the presence of at least one coloring material, as defined previously.

[0373] The coloring matter(s) may be found in composition (A), in composition (B), or even in both compositions at the same time.

[0374] Preferably, the coloring matter(s) is / are in the first composition which is applied.

[0375] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, compositions (A) and (B) are applied successively, preferably by applying composition (B) before composition (A). Preferably, the second composition is applied to the first, without mixing. Advantageously, the second composition is applied to the first once it has dried.

[0376] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the following are successively applied to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer of makeup (base coat) with an anhydrous composition (B) as defined previously comprising at least one coloring matter, preferably a pigment, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus colored, a second post-treatment layer (top coat) with an aqueous composition (A) as defined previously.

[0377] From composition (C)

[0378] Another cosmetic process for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention, consists of implementing the following steps: 1) applying to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y as defined previously; the composition (C) comprising at least one coloring matter; 2) an anhydrous composition (M) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0379] Advantageously, the composition (M) is applied to the composition obtained at the end of the first step, without mixing. It is also preferably applied after at least partial drying of the composition deposited during the first step. As an indication, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.

[0380] From composition (D)

[0381] Another cosmetic process for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention, consists in carrying out the following steps: 1) applying to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition (D) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined above, b) at least one compound Y as defined above, c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol and d) at least one coloring matter, 2) an anhydrous composition (M) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

[0382] Advantageously, the composition (M) is applied to the composition obtained at the end of the first step, without mixing. It is also preferably applied after at least partial drying of the composition deposited during the first step. As an indication, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.

[0383] PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

[0384] The compositions (A), (B) (C), (D) and / or (M) according to the invention may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0385] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

[0386] The closing element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closing of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.

[0387] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of an element, deformable or not, made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

[0388] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0389] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

[0390] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0391] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0392] The container may include means for causing or facilitating dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0393] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

[0394] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0395] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0396] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0397] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0398] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage. mass.

[0399] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. Examples

[0400] Compositions (D)

[0401] The following compositions (D) were prepared:

[0402] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) (Dl) (D2) Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 5 5 PPG-5-CETETH-20 (Procetyl AWS-LQ-(AP) - Croda) 5 PEG-10 olive glyceride (Olive Oil W -Lipoid Kosmetik) - 10 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR - Sensient) 10 5 Ethanol QsplOO QsplOO

[0403] Preparation process While stirring with Rayneri, dissolve the tannic acid (compound X) in the solvent at room temperature. Once the tannic acid is dissolved, add compound Y while maintaining stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, add the coloring matter(s). Allow to stir until the resulting mixture is well blended. Condition.

[0404] Compositions (M)

[0405] Compositions (Ml)

[0406] The following composition (Ml) was prepared:

[0407] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight Isododecane qsp 100 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Mate riais) 17.5 Lauroyl lysine 1.5 Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Ge 1ISD V® - Elementis) 26 Isododecane 20 Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant - Dow Corning) 11 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Coming SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax - Dow Corning) 0.5

[0408] Method of preparation While stirring with Rayneri, mix all the compounds together directly at 70°C. Allow to stir until the mixture is smooth and allow to cool to room temperature. Condition.

[0409] Composition (M2)

[0410] The following composition (M2) was prepared

[0411] [Tables 3] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight Phase Octyldodecanol qsp 100 A Ethylcellulose 30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone - BELSIL P DM 1000 30 B

[0412] Method of preparation While stirring with Rayneri, mix the compounds of phase A at 95°C. Let it stir until the mixture is well blended. Add phase B while stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, let it cool to room temperature. Package.

[0413] Application of the compositions

[0414] First, one of the compositions (D) is applied so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the support (base coat).

[0415] Then, once the first composition has dried, a composition (M) (top coat) is applied over it without mixing according to the combinations below:

[0416] [Tables4] Test Test 1 Test 2 Base coat (Dl) (D2) Top coat (Ml) (M2)

[0417] For lip makeup, compositions (Dl) and (D2) are very easy to apply with a dip applicator, allowing a very thin film to be obtained on the lips, with an intense, even color.

[0418] Once the composition has dried, composition (M1) or (M2) is applied over it according to the combinations in table 4.

[0419] Each time you get a non-sticky, very comfortable deposit.

[0420] The whole thing does not transfer (e.g. kiss test on a cup).

[0421] The resulting deposit was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical and chemical attacks: dry friction, water and oil, according to the following protocol.

[0422] Performance evaluation protocol

[0423] L Test Preparation#:

[0424] Support#: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).

[0425] Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Apply composition (M) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain a uniform coating. Do the same on the other two strips. Leave the coating to dry again on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Possibly take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the request.

[0426] 2, Requests:

[0427] Preparation of a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice the other way to form a square.

[0428] Dry resistance:

[0429] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up surfaces; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing make-up from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.

[0430] In the case where several passes are made, they would then be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e.: after each pass, the handkerchief is lifted to be repositioned at the “beginning” of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0431] Water resistance:

[0432] Insert the second coated support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. If necessary, take a photo of the media after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo.

[0433] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

[0434] Oil resistance:

[0435] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).

[0436] Rating:

[0437] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0438] [Tables5] Note State of the deposit Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense staining - very significant to total transfer of the color - Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit. Intense staining - significant transfer of the color + Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit perceptible but which does not reveal the support Medium staining - average transfer of the color ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Slight staining - little transfer of the color +++ No variation in the color of the deposit No staining or barely visible staining - no to very little transfer of the color

[0439] It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the resistance of the deposit, the latter comprises at least one coloring material whose coloring is sufficiently intense (for example a red coloring material, such as Red 7 in particular).

[0440] In the case of comparison of several compositions, the latter have the same shade (same quantity and same coloring matter).

[0441] It should be noted that the resistance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts enabling a description of technical characteristics to be obtained - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).

[0442] Results#:

[0443] [Tables4 Test Resistance to dry friction Resistance to water friction Resistance to oil friction Test 1 +++ +++ +++ Test 2 +++ +++ +++

Claims

Claims

1. Method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) applying to the skin and / or the lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least one compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, silicone or hydrocarbon, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated; this step taking place in the presence of at least one synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matter chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof; 2) applying to the skin and / or the lips thus treated, an anhydrous composition (M).

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

3. Method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.

4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.

5. Process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y have a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound Y is chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated alcohols and / or

8. polyoxypropylenated, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester and ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines, as well as mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound Y is chosen from: - non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked polydimethylsiloxanes, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as their mixtures; - Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average whole number ranging from 2 to 50; - Polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average whole number ranging from 1 to 50; - Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s) optionally hydroxylated at C6-C40, more particularly at C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units; - esters of sorbitol or sorbitan and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, in C6-C40, advantageously in C8-C30, and comprise 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units, and preferably Polysorbate; - polyoxyethylenated alkylamines; the C8-C30 alkyl group, the number of oxyethylenated units between 1 and 50; - polyethylene glycols; - their mixtures.

9. Method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, consisting of carrying out the following steps: l)a) applying to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5; and l)b) at least one composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y as defined according to any one of claims 1 or 6 to 8; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and / or the lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application;one and / or the other of compositions (A) and (B) comprising at least one coloring matter, preferably composition (A); 2) an anhydrous composition (M) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.;

10. Method according to the preceding claim, in which compositions (A) and (B) are applied successively, preferably by applying composition (B) before composition (A).

11. Process according to any one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the polyphenol content represents at least 2% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

12. Process according to any one of claims 9 or 11, characterized in that the content of compound Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

13. Process according to any one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises water, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).

14. Method according to any one of claims 9 to 13, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises at least less one C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A) or (B).

15. Process according to any one of claims 9 to 14, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or (B) comprises at least one oily phase, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 20 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).

16. Method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) applying to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5 with at least one compound Y as defined according to any one of claims 1 or 6 to 8; the composition (C) comprising at least one coloring matter; 2) applying to the skin and / or the lips thus treated, an anhydrous composition (M).

17. Method according to claim 16, characterized in that the content of pre-formed coating agent varies from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

18. Method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) applying to the skin and / or the lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition (D) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and b) at least one compound Y as defined according to any one of claims 1, 6 to 8 and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol, d) at least one coloring matter; 2) an anhydrous composition (M) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

19. Process according to claim 18, characterized in that the content of polyphenol X is at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight and even more particularly 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D).

20. Process according to any one of claims 18 or 19, characterized in that the content of compound Y represents at least 1.0% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D).

21. Process according to any one of claims 18 or 20, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

22. Process according to any one of claims 18 to 21, characterized in that the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more particularly ranging from 25 to 98% by weight, and even more particularly ranging from 30 to 90% by weight, and preferably ranging from 35 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D).

23. Method according to any one of claims 18 to 22, characterized in that the composition (D) comprises at least water, more particularly in a content less than or equal to less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D).

24. Method according to any one of claims 18 to 23, characterized in that the composition (D) comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

25. Method according to any one of claims 18 to 24, characterized in that the composition (D) comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile silicone oil.

26. Process according to any one of claims 18 to 25, characterized in that the composition (D) comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D).

27. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of coloring matter(s) of composition (A) and / or (B), of composition (C), of composition (D) is at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.

28. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (M) comprises at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone.

29. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (M) comprises at least one wax or at least one pasty compound, as well as their mixtures.

30. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (M) comprises at least one film-forming polymer, for example chosen from silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers, block ethylenic polymers, ethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof; and in particular chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer ethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.