Shea butter extract enriched with detriterpene unsaponifiables

Abstract

SHEA BUTTER EXTRACT ENRICHED WITH UNSAPONIFIABLE DETRITERPENE. The invention relates to a shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative triterpenic alcohol content less than or equal to 20% (w / w) by weight of triterpenic alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter, and to the method for obtaining it. It also relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims. Said composition being a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, particularly a dermatological one, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier, a shea butter extract according to the invention.Finally, it concerns the use of said shea butter extract as substitutes and / or equivalents for fossil-derived paraffins and / or natural waxes, particularly beeswax, carnauba wax and / or candelilla wax, especially in the fields of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboards, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.

Description

Title of the invention: Shea butter extract enriched with detriterpene unsaponifiables

[0001] The present invention relates to a shea butter extract characterized in that it has a significantly higher unsaponifiable content than conventional shea butter and a significantly lower relative triterpene alcohol content than conventional shea butter. The invention also relates to the use of said extract in the fields of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, coatings, inks, varnishes, paper, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, and / or food products.

[0002] Paraffins, also called mineral waxes, are hydrocarbon compounds derived from petroleum refining. Composed of linear and branched cyclic alkanes with 18 to 60 carbon atoms, respectively iso- and cycloalkanes, paraffins are substances with a solid to semi-solid consistency at room temperature (Bio-paraffin from Soybean OH as Eco-friendly Alternative to Mineral Waxes. Sandra Romero et al. Ind. Eng. Chem. Res. 2021, 60, 5364-5373). Their main properties are their variable melting point, ranging from 35 to 90°C, their excellent oxidation and temperature stability, their odorless nature, and their clarity.

[0003] Different types of mineral paraffins are distinguished according to their consistency and melting point: soft waxes, microcrystalline waxes, and paraffin waxes, respectively better known by their English names slack wax, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerites, and Eisher Tropsch wax. The applications of mineral paraffins are extremely wide-ranging, as they are widely used in the fields of packaging and cardboard manufacturing in particular (more than 30% of production volumes), candles (25% of volumes), inks and coatings (more than 10% of volumes), plastics and rubbers (8%), adhesives (8%), and cosmetics (An Example of Commercializing Bio-based Coatings and Binders. D. Jarboe. Written for presentation at the 2017 ASABE Annual International Meeting Sponsored by ASABE Spokane, Washington July 16-19, 2017).

[0004] Many of these markets are also served by certain so-called natural waxes of vegetable or animal origin, such as beeswax, candelilla wax, and carnauba wax. Although more expensive, these waxes offer a renewable alternative to mineral paraffins. Their main common characteristic is their melting or dropping point, which is between 40 and 90°C (The World of Wax. M. Becker. Oils & Fats). International (0F1), January 2010, pp 38-40). But their global production volume of 400,000 tonnes remains far below that of mineral paraffins, estimated at over 3 million tonnes.

[0005] However, mineral paraffins and natural waxes do not meet certain recent market expectations, particularly in terms of environmental friendliness and safety. These waxes and paraffins are also facing increasing regulatory challenges.

[0006] Thus, a significant group of mineral paraffins is suspected of toxicity, particularly carcinogenic effects. Therefore, in 2013, the EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) established acceptable daily intakes for microcrystalline waxes (food additive E 905) and medium-viscosity white paraffins, applicable to a wide range of food products (Scientific Opinion on Minerals or Hydrocarbons in Food, EFSA Panel on Contaminants in the Food Chain (CONTAM), published on 28 August 2013). This resulted in maximum concentration limits to be observed, particularly in dairy products, vegetable oils, cereals, spices, fish, eggs, etc.

[0007] Furthermore, due to their origin, mineral paraffins contribute negatively to the increase of anthropogenic carbon dioxide. In addition, they are not biodegradable and induce bioaccumulation in the environment (Waxes and Related Materials. American Petroleum Institute. January 21, 2011). This is why many sectors are seeking substitutes of natural and renewable origin.

[0008] Finally, recent developments in petrochemical processes and in the type of fossil fuel resources used have gradually led to a decrease in the volumes of mineral paraffins produced. In 2013, the National Petrochemical & Refiners Association in the USA estimated that 25% of global volumes were at risk, for three main reasons: 1) greater efficiency in catalytic cracking processes for paraffins, 2) a constantly decreasing demand for oil, and 3) the recent development of shale gas, which produces significantly fewer paraffin co-products than oil cracking. Consequently, the need to develop renewable alternatives is becoming increasingly important for sectors that are heavy users of mineral paraffins.

[0009] With regard to natural waxes of plant and animal origin such as carnauba, candelilla, and beeswax, other problems have arisen. First, candelilla and carnauba waxes are obtained through processes and supply chains that are not very respectful of human rights and the environment. Very low-wage labor exposed to toxic substances such as sulfuric acid has significantly discredited the resulting waxes. To such an extent that these waxes do not meet CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) criteria. Environmental standards are now required by many industrial sectors. Furthermore, these waxes are extracted from plants harvested wild and uncontrolled, negatively impacting biodiversity. For example, the candelilla plant, Euphorbia antisiphilityca, is now listed as a plant in danger under CITES. Finally, the production of carnauba and candelilla waxes is often affected by climatic conditions and limited access to the resource, leading to frequent supply disruptions.

[0010] Regarding beeswax, its animal origin limits its use in certain sectors such as natural cosmetics and certified "vegan" products. Furthermore, it is a by-product of large-scale honey production and is therefore contaminated by pesticides that must be eliminated through costly purification processes.

[0011] Finally, in many applications, natural waxes cannot completely replace microcrystalline waxes because they have lower melting points and do not have the same hardness.

[0012] Vaseline, also known as petrolatum, is a raw material belonging to the class of mineral oils, with a smooth to slightly pasty texture. It is a widely used ingredient in food (as an additive) and in cosmetics, particularly in balms and lipsticks, moisturizing creams, and hair care products. However, the use of Vaseline is increasingly controversial and subject to strict regulations (Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Petroleum Distillate, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Volume 5, Number 3, 1986, Statutory Instruments - Consumer Protection, The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2008, No. 1284, pp. 1-144).

[0013] This is why, in cosmetics, numerous plant-based substitutes have been proposed, for example in US3764537, US4659573, US5976560, or WO 2007 / 107966, which consist of mixtures primarily composed of fatty esters of vegetable oils, vegetable oils, and hydrogenated vegetable oils. The semi-synthetic nature of these substitutes, as well as their multi-component composition, makes their incorporation into various types of topical formulations, makeup, and hair products difficult. Consequently, it is necessary to develop substitutes that are simpler to use and composed of a minimum number of ingredients, ideally no more than two.

[0014] Lanolin and its derivatives have long been used ingredients in cosmetics. They are used for their moisturizing properties for the skin and hair (Final Report for the Safety Assessment of Acetylated Lanolin Alcohols and Related Compounds, Cosmetic Ingredient Review, https: / / www.cir-safety.org / sites / default / files / 115_buff3g_suppl.pdf). They are also lubricants. giving formulations a soft and smooth feel, and even, in some applications, an adhesive effect. Produced from sheep's wool, their animal origin significantly limits their use in cosmetics, particularly since the mad cow disease crisis and the consumer trend towards vegan and animal-friendly products. This is why numerous lanolin substitutes have been proposed, for example in WO 2005 / 044203, JP 2019047841 and / or US 5,436,006. Here again, these are complex mixtures of natural and semi-synthetic ingredients, which makes them difficult to incorporate into different types of cosmetic formulations (makeup, skincare, haircare, etc.).

[0015] Silicones, and in particular dimethicones and their derivatives, are widely used ingredients in cosmetics (Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Volume 1, Number 4, 1982, Silicone Polymers in Skin Care, Anthony J. O'Lenick and Kevin A. O'Lenick, MRS Bulletin, Vol. 32, October 2007, www.mrs.org / bulletin). Among silicones, dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes, PDMS) are the most widely used in cosmetics, notably for their film-forming properties. Dimethicones and their derivatives form a surface film on the skin and coat the hair. From a sensory perspective, they provide shine and a silky, soft feel. Despite their remarkable properties, they are increasingly rejected by consumers because they are suspected of not being non-toxic.Consequently, the cosmetics industry is developing products labeled "silicone-free." Many different types of substitutes are also available. For example, SEPPIC offers linear and branched alkane fractions obtained by hydrocracking vegetable oils (S. Duprat-de-Paule. Augmented Bio-based Lipids for Cosmetics. OCL 2018, 25(5), 2018 pp 2-12). While partially replicating some of the sensory properties of silicones, these alkanes do not have the hair-coating power of dimethicones. Similarly, INOLEX offers plant-based alternatives to silicones under the brand name LexFeel™, which are bio-based synthetic esters (glyceryl triheptanoate, heptyl undecylenate, diheptyl succinate). These esters have the disadvantage of being easily hydrolyzed and releasing strongly odorous alcohols and fatty acids, unlike silicones which have excellent stability to hydrolysis.It is therefore necessary to develop substitutes for silicones, and in particular dimethicones, which have excellent hydrolysis stability and a strong hair-coating capacity.

[0016] In order to address the various problems associated with the use of mineral paraffins and natural waxes, substitutes have been proposed. For example, application WO 03 / 093404 claims compositions comprising hydrogenated polymerized oils. However, the process for obtaining them involves steps of Chemical synthesis, in this case the polymerization of drying oils (soybean, linseed, safflower) and their hydrogenation at high temperature, involves energy-intensive and hazardous process steps. Furthermore, these polymerized and hydrogenated oils do not allow for the production of waxy compositions with very high melting points, i.e., above 90°C.

[0017] US patent application 8,529,924 discloses paraffin wax substitutes for candle making, consisting of hydrogenated vegetable oils. Here again, the production process involves a relatively hazardous procedure, in this case catalytic hydrogenation, and leads to compositions with limited melting points.

[0018] US application 4,842,648 claims a paraffin wax substitute consisting of glycerol monostearate and refined palm stearin. However, the maximum melting point of the composition is significantly lower than that of paraffin waxes.

[0019] US patent application 8,685,118 discloses paraffin substitutes obtained by intermolecular metathesis of unsaturated vegetable oils. The metathesis reaction involves the use of homogeneous, specific, and expensive catalysts, making the process economically unviable. Furthermore, it is known to those skilled in the art that the selectivity of metathesis reactions is difficult to control and leads to the production of complex mixtures of coupling products whose final rheological properties are difficult to determine.

[0020] French patent FR 2702773 discloses a process for preparing fat fractions enriched in unsaponifiable matter, particularly shea butter. The extracts according to this application have an unsaponifiable content significantly lower than 85%.

[0021] Patent JP 2011132207 discloses a shea butter gum derivative for these cosmetic applications. However, this derivative has a significantly lower unsaponifiable content than 85% because its process is not carried out at heat and includes saponification with ethanol as a solvent.

[0022] The applicant has succeeded in a completely surprising and unexpected way in developing a shea butter extract (Vitellaria paradoxa) with a very high unsaponifiable content which has the advantage of guaranteeing the stability over time of the rheological, functional, safety properties, softening temperature, viscosity, resistance to hydrolysis and oxidation.

[0023] In fact, in formulation, the shea butter extract according to the invention possesses, in particular, emulsifiable characteristics, spreading properties, film-forming properties, gelling power, and a hair-coating effect significantly superior to any shea butter fraction or extract having an unsaponifiable content inferior. Consequently, the sensory properties of the formulations, a very important criterion in cosmetics, are significantly better with the shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0024] Triterpene alcohols and sterols / methylsterols tend to precipitate at low temperatures, which can destabilize emulsions, cloud liquid formulations, particularly cosmetics, especially serums, shampoos, and styling products, and also make emulsions granular, thus negatively affecting the sensory properties of the formulations. Similarly, these compounds can modify rheological and stability properties through the formation of oxidized products (oxysterols and peroxides), which over time can also lead to discoloration of the formulations (browning) and / or skin intolerance problems.

[0025] The applicant has also succeeded in a completely surprising and unexpected way in developing a shea butter extract whose low content of triterpenic alcohols and sterols and methyl sterols makes it possible to solve all the problems mentioned above.

[0026] The shea butter extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an alternative to paraffins, respectful of humans and the environment, non-ecotoxic and bioaccumulative, natural, renewable, vegan, low toxicity and exhibiting an excellent naturalness index.

[0027] Also, the extract according to the invention combined with one or more ingredients is an alternative to petroleum jelly, lanolin and dimethicones, the disadvantages of which have been stated above.

[0028] A first object of the invention relates to a shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative triterpenic alcohol content less than or equal to 20% (w / w) by weight of triterpenic alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, "shea butter extract" means any compound derived from a fraction of shea butter which has undergone a treatment enabling it to be enriched in certain constituents.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, "shea butter fraction" means any compound obtained from the fractionation of shea butter.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, "shea butter" means raw, semi-refined or refined shea butter.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, "fractionation of shea butter" means at least one processing step of raw, semi-refined or refined shea butter using an organic solvent.

[0033] The fractionation of shea butter is carried out with at least one solvent chosen from the list including acetone, methyl-THF, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dodecane, alpha and beta pinene, limonene, pinane, adamanthane, dichloromethane, dichloroethane, methyl isobutyl ketone and / or isopropanol and leads to the olein and stearin fractions and a precipitate.

[0034] This precipitate, which is usually not valued, is the raw material which will allow the preparation of the fraction according to the invention; in the remainder of this application it will be referred to as "precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process".

[0035] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is the co-product of the saponification of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0036] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is obtained by a process not comprising a treatment step with ethanol, nor with a solvent from the family of linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes, and / or from the family of aromatic compounds of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, "unsaponifiable" means compounds insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents obtained after saponification of the precipitate resulting from the shea butter fractionation process. Generally, unsaponifiables include, in particular, sterols, methyl sterols, triterpene alcohols, tocopherols, and / or hydrocarbons.

[0038] The determination of the unsaponifiable content may be carried out by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it may be carried out by the standardized method NF EN ISO 18609.

[0039] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0040] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content at least 5 times greater than the unsaponifiable content of shea butter.

[0041] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content at least 9 times greater than the unsaponifiable content of shea butter.

[0042] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content at least 3 times greater than the unsaponifiable content of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0043] For the purposes of the present invention, "raw shea butter" means an unrefined butter, obtained by simple mechanical pressing of the kernels or by extraction with a solvent, for example hexane.

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, "semi-refined shea butter" means a butter which has undergone at least one neutralization, degumming, bleaching step on bleaching earth in the presence or absence of activated carbon and / or neutralizing or non-neutralizing deodorization step.

[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, "refined shea butter" means butter that has undergone physical or chemical refining. Chemical refining means butter that has undergone the steps of neutralization in the presence of a base, degumming, bleaching on bleaching earth with or without activated carbon, and deodorization. Physical refining means butter that has undergone the steps of degumming, bleaching on bleaching earth with or without activated carbon, and neutralizing deodorization.

[0046] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a saponification index of less than or equal to 30 mg KOH / g.

[0047] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a saponification index of less than or equal to 20 mg KOH / g.

[0048] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a saponification index less than or equal to 10 mg KOH / g.

[0049] The determination of the saponification value may be carried out by any method commonly known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it may be carried out according to the standardized method NF ISO 3657.

[0050] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content less than or equal to 10% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

[0051] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content of less than or equal to 5% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable.

[0052] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content less than or equal to 1% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable.

[0053] The measurement of the triterpene alcohol content can be carried out by all the methods classically used by a person skilled in the art.

[0054] According to one embodiment of the invention, the measurement of the triterpene alcohol content is carried out by gas chromatography GC-FID.

[0055] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content at least 15 times lower than the relative triterpene alcohol content of shea butter.

[0056] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content at least 30 times lower than the relative triterpene alcohol content of shea butter.

[0057] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content at least 5 times lower than the relative triterpene alcohol content of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0058] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative triterpene alcohol content at least 8 times lower than the relative triterpene alcohol content of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0059] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and / or methyl sterols less than or equal to 20% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

[0060] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and / or methyl sterols less than or equal to 10% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

[0061] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and / or methyl sterols less than or equal to 5% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

[0062] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and / or methyl sterols less than or equal to 3% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

[0063] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative content of sterols and / or methyl sterols less than or equal to 2% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

[0064] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content at least 10 times lower than the relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content of shea butter.

[0065] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content at least 15 times lower than the relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content of shea butter.

[0066] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content at least 3 times lower than the relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0067] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content at least 5 times lower than the relative content of sterols and / or methyl sterols of the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0068] The determination of the sterol and / or methyl sterol content can be carried out by all the methods classically used by a person skilled in the art.

[0069] According to one embodiment of the invention, the measurement of the sterol and / or methyl sterol content is carried out by gas chromatography GC-FID.

[0070] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by TGA (Thermo-Differential Analysis - Thermo-Gravimetric Analysis) greater than or equal to 160°C.

[0071] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by TGA-ATG greater than or equal to 180°C.

[0072] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature measured by TGA-DTA greater than or equal to 450°C.

[0073] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature measured by TGA-DTA greater than or equal to 480°C.

[0074] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by TGA greater than or equal to 160°C and a decomposition temperature measured by TGA greater than or equal to 450°C.

[0075] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature measured by TGA greater than or equal to 180°C and a decomposition temperature measured by TGA greater than or equal to 480°C.

[0076] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature within a range of 100 to 250 °C.

[0077] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature within a range of 120 to 200 °C.

[0078] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening temperature within a range of 140 to 170 °C.

[0079] The softening temperature can be determined by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, the total melting temperature can be determined by DTA-TGA or by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry).

[0080] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature in the range of 400 to 600 °C.

[0081] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature in the range of 420 to 500 °C.

[0082] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has a decomposition temperature in the range of 440 to 480 °C.

[0083] The decomposition temperature can be determined by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, the total melting temperature can be determined by DTA-TGA or by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry).

[0084] For the purposes of the present invention, the "softening" temperature means the temperature from which the material begins to liquefy and loses hardness.

[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the "decomposition" temperature means the temperature from which matter, in decomposing, begins to lose mass as observed by DTA-TGA analysis.

[0086] For the purposes of this invention, "TGA-DTA" refers to thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential thermal analysis (DTA). These are two complementary thermal analysis techniques. Used simultaneously, they allow the study of the thermodynamic behavior of materials. Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) measures the mass change of a sample at a given temperature as a function of time. This analysis therefore requires very precise knowledge of the data, namely mass, time, and temperature. The curves obtained from the analysis are then processed and interpreted.

[0087] These softening and decomposition temperature characteristics offer the advantage of providing a substitute or equivalent product to paraffins. They also allow the development of waxy compositions with very high melting points by adding the shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0088] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an iodine value greater than or equal to 50 g I2 / 100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter fraction according to the invention.

[0089] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an iodine value greater than or equal to 80 g I2 / 100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter fraction according to the invention.

[0090] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an iodine value greater than or equal to 100 g I2 / 100gen gram of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0091] The iodine value can be determined by any conventional method known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it is determined according to standard NF ISO 3961.

[0092] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an acid value less than or equal to 10 mg KOH / g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0093] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an acid value less than or equal to 5 mg KOH / g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0094] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an acid value less than or equal to 1 mg KOH / g in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0095] The determination of the acid value may be carried out by any method conventionally known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it may be carried out according to the standardized method NF EN ISO 660.

[0096] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is hydrogenated.

[0097] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrogenated" means an extract that has undergone at least one hydrogenation reaction.

[0098] In one embodiment, the hydrogenation of the shea butter extract according to the invention is carried out in an organic solvent in the presence of at least one homogeneous or heterogeneous metallic catalyst, comprising at least one hydrogenating metal included in the group of nickel, copper, cobalt, platinum, ruthenium, rhenium and / or palladium.

[0099] In one embodiment, the hydrogenation reaction is carried out under a hydrogen pressure greater than 1 bar.

[0100] In one embodiment, the hydrogenation reaction is carried out at a temperature above 60°C.

[0101] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is hydrogenated and has an iodine value less than or equal to 60 g I2 / 100g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0102] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention is treated with an alcohol.

[0103] For the purposes of the present invention, "treated with an alcohol" means an extract which has undergone at least one washing step in the presence of an alcohol comprising 1 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0104] Preferably, the alcohol-treated extract is treated with ethanol in an extract / alcohol mass ratio of 0.01 to 100. The alcohol wash may comprise one or more washes, at a temperature of 20 to 250°C. The wash is carried out in batch mode or continuously against the current.

[0105] Thus, in one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative triterpene alcohol content less than or equal to 20% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a saponification index less than or equal to 30 mg KOH / g and a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content less than or equal to 10% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a softening temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 160 °C and a decomposition temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 450 °C and an index of iodine greater than or equal to 50 g I2 / 100 g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid value less than or equal to 10 mg KOH / g inmilligram of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0106] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract, a relative triterpene alcohol content less than or equal to 5% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter, a saponification value less than or equal to 20 mg KOH / g, a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content less than or equal to 10% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter, a softening temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 160 °C, a decomposition temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 450 °C, and an iodine value greater than or equal to 90 g I2 / 100 g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid value less than or equal to 5 mg KOH / g in milligramsof potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0107] In one embodiment,The shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract, a relative triterpene alcohol content less than or equal to 1% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter, a saponification value less than or equal to 10 mg KOH / g, a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content less than or equal to 2% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter, a softening temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 180°C, a decomposition temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 480°C, and an iodine value greater than or equal to 1 g I₂ / 100g. in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid value less than or equal to 1 mg KOH / g in milligrams of hydroxide, potassium per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention, the shea butter extract being hydrogenated.

[0108] In one embodiment, the shea butter extract according to the invention has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative triterpene alcohol content less than or equal to 1% (w / w) by weight of triterpene alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a saponification value less than or equal to 10 mg KOH / g and a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content less than or equal to 2% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter and a softening temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 100°C and a decomposition temperature measured by DTA-TG greater than or equal to 350°C and an iodine value greater than or equal to 100 g I2 / 100 g in grams of iodine per 100 grams of shea butter extract according to the invention and an acid value less than or equal to 1 mg KOH / g inmilligram of potassium hydroxide per gram of shea butter extract according to the invention, the shea butter extract being treated with alcohol.

[0109] Another object according to the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0110] In one embodiment, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, is characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier an extract of shea butter according to the invention.

[0111] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a shea butter extract content according to the invention of 1.103 to 99% (w / w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0112] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a shea butter extract content according to the invention of 5 to 80% (w / w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0113] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a shea butter extract content according to the invention of 10 to 70% (w / w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0114] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a shea butter extract content according to the invention of 15 to 60% (w / w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0115] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is characterized in a shea butter extract content according to the invention of 30 to 50% (w / w) by weight of the shea butter extract relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0116] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one bio-based ingredient included in the group consisting of alkanes, natural or synthetic waxes, fatty esters of vegetable oils, blown and / or polymerized and / or hydrogenated and / or polyhydroxylated vegetable oils, fatty acid esters, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, fatty acid soaps, natural polymers, synthetic polymers, fatty alcohols, free phytosterols / stanols, esterified phytosterols / stanols, free triterpenic alcohols, esterified free triterpenic alcohols, and / or glycol fatty esters.

[0117] The composition thus obtained is a bio-based composition.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, "bio-based ingredient" or "bio-based composition" means a compound or composition comprising at least 95% bio-based carbon, as determined by ASTM D6866-12 (Standard Test Methods for Determining the Biobased Content of Solid, Liquid, and Gaseous Samples Using Radiocarbon Analysis).

[0119] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a homogeneous mixture.

[0120] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has the characteristics of a eutectic mixture.

[0121] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient having a refractive index at 20°C of 1.5000 to 1.5200.

[0122] Mixing the extract according to the invention with an ingredient having a substantially identical refractive index, in this case from 1.5000 to 1.5200 at 20°C, has the advantage of making the mixture translucent. The mixture thus formed is therefore more easily formulated, particularly in cosmetics.

[0123] Ingredients having a refractive index of 1.5000 to 1.5200 at 20°C may in particular be chosen from poly(2-chloroethyl methacrylate), poly(cyclohexyl methacrylate), polyisobutene, poly(2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate), poly(tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate), poly(acrylic acid), poly(acrylonitrile), poly(methyl isopropenyl ketone) and / or polyisoprene.

[0124] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises polyisoprene.

[0125] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient included in the group consisting of antioxidants, surfactants, sunscreens and / or preservatives.

[0126] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one ingredient of fossil origin included in the group consisting of alkanes, mineral oils, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, paraffin waxes, liquid paraffins and / or oily paraffins, petrolatum, vaseline, waxes soft, ozokerites, Fisher Tropsch waxes, synthetic waxes, synthetic fatty alcohols, synthetic fatty acids and / or polymers.

[0127] According to the invention, "paraffin" means an alkane or a mixture of alkanes, in particular linear alkanes, isoalkanes (or branched alkanes), cycloalkanes and naphthenes, MOSH (Mineral Oil Saturated Hydrocarbons) with a carbon number greater than 18, mono- or polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons known as MOAH (Mineral Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons) with a carbon number greater than 10.

[0128] Another object according to the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention and one or more oils.

[0129] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention and one or more oils, in which the shea butter extract is present in a content of 0.1 to 30% (W / W) by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0130] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition comprising a shea butter extract according to the invention and one or more oils, in which the shea butter extract is present in a content of 5 to 15% (w / w) by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0131] According to one embodiment, the oil or oils are chosen from the list including vegetable oils and / or their ester-type derivatives, mineral oils, esterified oils and / or linear and / or branched alkanes from C10 to C44.

[0132] Another object according to the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier an extract of shea butter according to the invention.

[0133] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0134] In one embodiment, said cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition further comprises an active ingredient.

[0135] According to the present invention, "cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable support" means a cosmetic or pharmaceutical excipient that is non-irritating to the skin, non-toxic, does not induce an allergic response, and is chemically stable.

[0136] According to the present invention, "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say, a composition intended for the prevention and / or care of healthy skin, including a healthy scalp, and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes.

[0137] According to the present invention, "healthy skin", "healthy skin appendages" or "healthy mucous membranes" means any area of ​​skin and / or skin appendage and / or mucous membrane that is qualified as non-pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say, that does not present any infection, inflammation, scar, disease or skin condition such as folliculitis, candidiasis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, pathologies related to melanogenesis such as vitiligo, eczema, acne, actinic keratosis, carcinoma, melanoma, boil or dermatitis, in particular seborrheic dermatitis, alopecia or wounds or injuries.

[0138] For the purposes of the present invention, "phanera" refers to integumentary structures derived from the ectoderm that are characterized by a high degree of keratinization. Thus, phanera do not include the skin or mucous membranes. In humans, the principal phanera are hair, body hair, and nails.

[0139] In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition further comprising at least one compound selected from non-volatile oils, shiny oils, pasty fats, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, waxes, antioxidants, pigments, colorants, surfactants, an aqueous phase, or mixtures thereof.

[0140] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0141] For the purposes of this invention, “non-volatile oil” means an oil having a flash point above 110°C measured according to ATSM D93.

[0142] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0143] These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or fluorosiliconized oils.

[0144] For the purposes of the present invention, hydrocarbon oil means an oil essentially consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen and possibly oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms.

[0145] Among these hydrocarbon oils, one can mention linear or branched alkanes of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched alkanes of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, (poly)esters and (poly)ethers, and in particular (poly)esters of C2-C24 acids (preferably C6-C20), triglycerides of fatty acids in C6-C20, vegetable oils, dialkyl carbonates, branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids, branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols.

[0146] Regarding non-volatile silicone oils, they are in particular chosen from the group including phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, or derivatives of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes and their mixtures.

[0147] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile linear or branched alkanes.

[0148] In one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched alkanes of 17 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0149] In one embodiment, the non-volatile oils are of vegetable origin.

[0150] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the non-volatile oil is a vegetable hydrocarbon oil.

[0151] Vegetable hydrocarbon oils are in particular selected from the group comprising wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, coconut, apricot, castor, corn, avocado, soybean, shea, olive, sweet almond, cottonseed, palm, macadamia, rapeseed, jojoba, hazelnut, poppy, alfalfa, pumpkin, blackcurrant, squash, evening primrose, barley, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0153] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0154] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0155] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0156] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the non-volatile oil is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0157] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one shining oil.

[0158] For the purposes of the present invention, "shining oil" means an oil possessing intrinsic shining properties. "Shine oils" are frequently used in cosmetics to guarantee a "shining effect" when applying cosmetic compositions to keratinous materials, for example.

[0159] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized by the shining oil being a non-volatile oil.

[0160] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the shining oil is selected from the group comprising:

[0161] - polymers such as: polybutylenes, in particular POLYBUTENE® marketed or manufactured by the company ATAMAN, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, polyfarnesenes, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers including the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, ANTARON V 220 ® marketed or manufactured by the company ISP.

[0162] - esters such as linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon greater than 30, aromatic esters, fatty alcohol esters or branched fatty acids having 20 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0163] - ester copolymers such as: dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7®), dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (VISCOPLAST 14436H®), dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer and their mixtures.

[0164] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0165] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0166] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0167] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0168] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0169] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0170] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the shining oil is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0171] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one pasty fatty substance.

[0172] For the purposes of the present invention, "pasty fat" means a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, having at room temperature (25 °C) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0173] In other words, the melting temperature of the pasty fat is less than or equal to 25 °C.

[0174] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fat is chosen from the group comprising synthetic pasty fats, animal pasty fats, vegetable pasty fats and mixtures thereof.

[0175] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pasty fat body is a synthetic pasty fat body selected from the group comprising: polyol ethers, petrolatum, vinyl polymers, pentaerythritol esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0176] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the animal fat paste is lanolin.

[0177] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the vegetable fat paste is chosen from the group comprising: vegetable butters, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, and their mixtures.

[0178] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fat body is between 0% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0179] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fat body is between 0% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0180] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fat body is between 0% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0181] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pasty fat body is between 0% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0182] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one gelling agent.

[0183] In addition, certain gloss oils such as VISCOPLAST 14436H®, and compounds marketed under the name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and LUSPLAN DD-DA7® can also be used as gelling agents.

[0184] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising: organic gelling agents, mineral gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is an organic gelling agent selected from the group comprising: ethylcellulose and its derivatives, resins derived from rosin, dextrin esters, fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a mineral gelling agent selected from the group comprising: hectorite and its derivatives, fumed silica and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a polymeric gelling agent selected from the group comprising: organopolysiloxanes and their derivatives, dimethicone copolymers and their derivatives, polystyrene / polyisoprene copolymers, polystyrene / polybutadiene copolymers, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene) copolymers, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene) copolymers, mixtures of copolymers in isododecane such as ethylene / propylene copolymer or butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer, polyesters and their derivatives, polyamide resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0188] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is dextrin palmitate or one of its derivatives.

[0189] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the type BENTONE GEL ISD V® or one of its equivalents.

[0190] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK SB® type or one of its equivalents.

[0191] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a modified hectorite of the disteardimonium hectorite type associated with triethyl citrate.

[0192] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is a copolymer mixture in isododecane such as ethylene / propylene copolymer.

[0193] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the gelling agent is the combination of a dimethicone polymer and a mixture of alkanes marketed under the name VEGELIGHT SILK SI 118 ® by BIOSYNTHIS, or one of its equivalents.

[0194] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0195] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is at least 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0196] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0197] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0198] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0199] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0200] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 15% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0201] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the gelling agent is between 20% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0202] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one film-forming polymer.

[0203] For the purposes of the present invention, a film-forming polymer is understood to be a polymer capable of forming a macroscopically continuous film, particularly on the lips, within the framework of our invention.

[0204] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group comprising: acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, silicone polymers.

[0205] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is trimethylsilloxysilicate marketed under the name TMS 803.

[0206] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0207] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is at least 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0208] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 1% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0209] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 10% and 25% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0210] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 1% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0211] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the film-forming polymer is between 10% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0212] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one wax.

[0213] Waxes play an important role in the design of cosmetic products, particularly lipsticks, because they influence certain essential criteria such as the texture, appearance and / or solidity of the product.

[0214] In the context of the present invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid / liquid change of state. In other words, the compound is solid at room temperature (25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0215] In one embodiment, the waxes used have a melting point greater than or equal to 50°C.

[0216] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that at least one wax is chosen from the group consisting of synthetic waxes, mineral waxes, vegetable waxes and animal waxes.

[0217] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a mineral wax or a synthetic wax selected from the group comprising: microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes.

[0218] The term "vegetable wax" means a composition comprising at least one partially or fully hydrogenated oil. These vegetable waxes may include esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and may further include fatty acids, free fatty alcohols, long-chain linear alkanes and / or unsaponifiables.

[0219] In one embodiment, the waxes used are vegetable waxes.

[0220] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the wax is a vegetable or animal wax chosen from the group including: lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Berry wax, beeswax, sunflower wax, mimosa wax, jojoba wax, castor wax, olive wax.

[0221] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is at least 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0222] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0223] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 2% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0224] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0225] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 2% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0226] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the wax is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0227] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one antioxidant.

[0228] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the antioxidant is chosen from the group comprising: phenolic antioxidants of the type BHA, BHT, DBPC, gallates, so-called natural antioxidants such as dl-alpha-tocopherol or its derivatives, tocotrienols, plant extracts, dibasic lipopeptides such as lysine or arginine, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0230] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0231] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 2% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0232] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0233] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.1% and 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0234] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the antioxidant is between 0.01% and 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0235] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one pigmentary part.

[0236] This pigment component provides the color for the cosmetic composition. The pigments used are of synthetic, mineral, or vegetable origin. Their dosage is also carefully controlled.

[0237] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part is chosen from the group comprising: water-soluble colorants, fat-soluble colorants, pigments, pearlescent pigments, glitter and mixtures thereof.

[0238] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment portion is selected from the group comprising: organic pigments such as fixed pigments or precipitated pigments, mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide or iron oxides, sodium aluminosilicate thiosulfates, chromium oxides, bismuth oxychloride, copper phthalocyanine, metal-free phthalocyanine, chlorinated copper phthalocyanine.

[0239] Thus, the titanium oxide content determines the coverage and opacity of the film.

[0240] The use of precipitated lacquers or pigments determines the colour and chrominance.

[0241] By way of illustration, other types of pigments can be used such as titanium mica, borosilicates and their derivatives, mica, silica.

[0242] Mineral pigments are used to nuance the shades while compounds such as bismuth oxychloride can be used to confer special effects (metallic, shimmering effects, etc.).

[0243] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic colorant selected from the group comprising: CI100006, CI12010, CI12085, CI12120, CI12370, CI12420, CI12490, CI14270, CI14700, CI14720, CI14815, CI15525, CI15580, CI15620, CI15630, CI15850, CI15865, CI15880, CI15980, CI15985, CI1035, CI16255, CI16290, CI17200, CI18O5O, CI45100, CI45220, CI45380, CI45430.

[0244] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a synthetic colorant selected from the group comprising: CI77499, CI77267, CI77268, CI77499 CI77266, CI50420, CI27755, CI28440, CI20470 and mixtures thereof.

[0245] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the pigment part comprises a colorant of vegetable origin chosen from fruit and / or plant extracts containing colorants.

[0246] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is at least 0.01% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0247] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is at least 1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0248] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0249] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 0.01% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0250] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 1% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0251] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 5% and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0252] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 1% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0253] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0254] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 0.01% and 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0255] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 5% and 10% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0256] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the pigment portion is between 10% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0257] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant.

[0258] For the purposes of the present invention, a surfactant is defined as a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces or phases. Generally, these compounds are amphiphilic molecules and allow the solubilization of two immiscible phases of a composition.

[0259] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the minimum surfactant is chosen from the group comprising non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants.

[0260] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the least surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant.

[0261] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the minimum surfactant is chosen from the group of non-ionic surfactants consisting of: polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0262] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the least surfactant is an anionic surfactant.

[0263] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the minimum surfactant is an anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of: alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates, sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0264] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the least surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant.

[0265] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 0.1% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0266] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is at least 5% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0267] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 0.1% and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0268] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the at least surfactant is between 5% and 15% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0269] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it further comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0270] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase consists of water.

[0271] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one water-miscible organic solvent.

[0272] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent selected from the group consisting of lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ketones and short-chain aldehydes in the C2 to C4 range.

[0273] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 95% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0274] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 80% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0275] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 5 and 60% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0276] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 50% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0277] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 30% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0278] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 10 and 40% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0279] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of the aqueous phase is between 1 and 20% relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0280] Another object according to the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a. We have a precipitate obtained from a shea butter fractionation process, b. a saponification step is carried out on said precipitate in a concentrated sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide solution, c. Dilution in hot water and hot decantation are carried out, d. The soapy phase is removed to obtain a phase lightweight, e. The light phase obtained in step d) is washed with demineralized water and / or a saline solution, f. the said washed light phase obtained in step e is dried, said process being carried out in the absence of solvent of the family of linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes, and / or of the family of aromatic compounds and / or the saponification step b) being carried out in the absence of alcohol.

[0281] In one embodiment, the saponification step b) is carried out in the absence of ethanol.

[0282] The absence of a treatment step with a solvent from the family of linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes, and / or from the family of aromatic compounds has the advantage of ensuring the naturalness of the product obtained, also allows working in non-ATEX conditions and increasing the yield of unsaponifiable matter.

[0283] The absence of alcohol as a solvent in saponification step b) allows for operation at higher temperatures, thus improving the effectiveness of vigorous agitation because the viscosity remains moderate, whereas it would tend to increase as triglycerides are transformed into soaps at lower temperatures. In the presence of ethanol, the yield of the unsaponifiable fraction according to the invention is significantly altered, as the alcohol carries away a substantial portion of the fraction unsaponifiable matter according to the invention during washing with water. The absence of ethanol therefore also increases the yield in terms of unsaponifiable content.

[0284] In one embodiment, the precipitate from the fractionation process of the available shea butter is obtained by fractionation of raw, semi-refined and / or refined shea butter.

[0285] In one embodiment, the fractionation is carried out by treatment with acetone, at the reflux temperature of acetone and then cooled to room temperature to remove the stearin and olein fractions and obtain the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process.

[0286] Said precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process is then subjected to a drying step to obtain the dry precipitate.

[0287] In one embodiment, the acetone treatment step is carried out for less than one hour.

[0288] In one embodiment, the acetone treatment step is carried out for approximately thirty minutes.

[0289] In one embodiment, the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process is obtained with a production yield of at least 1% by weight of dry precipitate relative to the dry weight of shea butter from which the fractionation process is implemented.

[0290] In one embodiment, the yield of precipitate production from the shea butter fractionation process is at least 3% by weight of dry precipitate relative to the dry weight of shea butter from which the process is implemented.

[0291] In one embodiment, the drying step to obtain the dry precipitate is carried out under vacuum.

[0292] In one embodiment, step b) further includes heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 60°C under stirring until complete melting of the precipitate from the fractionation process of the previously vacuum-dried shea butter.

[0293] In one embodiment, step b) further includes heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 80°C under stirring until significant softening of the precipitate from the fractionation process of the previously vacuum-dried shea butter.

[0294] The advantage of using a precipitate from the fractionation process of significantly softened shea butter is to allow for the maintenance of a moderate viscosity and to be able to vigorously agitate the reaction medium.

[0295] For the purposes of the present invention, "concentrated sodium hydroxide solution" or "concentrated potassium hydroxide solution" means a concentrated sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution at least 1% (w / w) by weight of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide relative to the total weight of the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution.

[0296] In one embodiment, the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution used in step b) is concentrated at 5% (w / w) by dry weight of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide relative to the total weight of the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution.

[0297] In one embodiment, the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution used in step b) is concentrated to 10% (w / v) by dry weight of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide relative to the total weight of the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution.

[0298] In one embodiment, at least one of steps b), d) and / or e) is carried out hot.

[0299] In one embodiment, all steps b), d) and e) are carried out while hot.

[0300] For the purposes of the present invention, a process step carried out "hot" means any step carried out at a temperature above 90°C

[0301] In one embodiment, step b), is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

[0302] In one embodiment, step b) is carried out at a temperature above a temperature of approximately 120°C.

[0303] In one embodiment, step c), is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

[0304] In one embodiment, step c) is carried out at a temperature above a temperature of approximately 120°C.

[0305] In one embodiment, step c), is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

[0306] In one embodiment, step c) is carried out at a temperature above a temperature of approximately 120°C.

[0307] In one embodiment, step e), is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

[0308] In one embodiment, step e) is carried out at a temperature above a temperature of approximately 120°C.

[0309] In one embodiment, steps b), c), d) and d) are carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C.

[0310] In one embodiment, steps b), c), d) and d) are carried out at a temperature above a temperature of approximately 120°C.

[0311] Performing the process steps at a high temperature lowers the viscosity of the reaction medium, achieving almost complete saponification of fatty acids and glycerides in a relatively short time compared to a reaction carried out below 90°C. Similarly, a high temperature prevents crystallization of the extract according to the invention, which would result in, in addition to an alteration of the yield, clogging of the installation, to the point where it becomes impossible to drain the reactor in order to recover the extract according to the invention.

[0312] The applicant, in a particularly surprising and unexpected manner, succeeded in significantly lowering the relative content of triterpenic alcohols and sterols and / or methyl sterols of the shea butter extract according to the invention by implementing step c) at high temperature.

[0313] In one embodiment, step e) is repeated at least twice.

[0314] In one embodiment, step e) is repeated at least five times.

[0315] Repeating the washing steps allows the solution to be neutralized, making it easier to formulate, particularly in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions.

[0316] Step f) of drying can be carried out by all the means classically known to the person skilled in the art.

[0317] In one embodiment, step f) is carried out under vacuum.

[0318] In one embodiment, step f) is carried out at a temperature higher than 100°C.

[0319] In one embodiment, the process further includes a step of grinding the shea butter extract obtained.

[0320] The advantage of a grinding step is to make the extract easier to formulate, particularly in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions.

[0321] In one embodiment, the process further includes a step of hydrogenating the shea butter extract.

[0322] In one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the hydrogenation of the shea butter extract according to the invention is carried out in an organic solvent in the presence of at least one homogeneous or heterogeneous metallic catalyst, comprising at least one hydrogenating metal included in the group of nickel, copper, cobalt, platinum, ruthenium, rhenium and / or palladium.

[0323] In one embodiment, the hydrogenation reaction is carried out under a hydrogen pressure greater than 1 bar.

[0324] In one embodiment of the process according to the invention, the hydrogenation reaction is at a temperature above 60°C.

[0325] In one embodiment, the process further comprises a step of re-solubilization in a solvent of the shea butter extract according to the invention and cold recrystallization.

[0326] In one embodiment, the process further includes a step of bleaching the shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0327] In one embodiment, the decolorization is carried out with hydrogen peroxide.

[0328] In one embodiment, the process further includes a step of treating the shea butter extract according to the invention with ethanol.

[0329] Another object of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention to maintain and / or increase the hydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular to maintain and / or decrease insensible water loss and / or to maintain and / or increase the water content of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or slow down the appearance of signs of dry skin and / or mucous membranes and / or to maintain and / or increase the shine of healthy skin and / or healthy hair, in particular healthy lips and / or healthy hair, and / or to smooth healthy hair and / or to prevent and / or reduce wrinkles in healthy skin and / or to mattify healthy skin and / or reduce shine in healthy skin.

[0330] According to the present invention, "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic, non-pharmaceutical use of the shea butter extract according to the invention, on all or part of the healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or healthy mucous membranes.

[0331] For the purposes of the present invention, "insensible water loss" means passive diffusion and insensible perspiration measured at the cutaneous or mucosal level. Also referred to as transepidermal water loss or TEWL, insensible water loss can be measured by various methods, including in vivo, particularly using an evaporimeter or a tewameter, in vitro, particularly using the open cylinder technique, and / or ex vivo according to methods conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

[0332] For the purposes of this invention, "water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes" means the amount of water contained in the epithelia, in particular the epidermis and / or the epithelium of the mucous membranes. This content thus reflects the state of hydration. There are various methods for measuring the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes, notably in vivo and in particular via the corneometer, and / or by measuring desquamation via the corneofix (corneometry), or in vitro, in particular via the measurement of dielectric conductivity according to the methods classically used by those skilled in the art.

[0333] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic care method for maintaining and / or increasing the hydration of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, in particular for maintaining and / or reducing insensible water loss and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the water content of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or for preventing and / or slowing the appearance of signs of dryness of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or for maintaining and / or increasing the radiance of healthy skin and / or healthy hair, particularly healthy lips and / or healthy hair, and / or to smooth healthy hair and / or to prevent and / or reduce wrinkles on healthy skin and / or to mattify healthy skin and / or reduce shine on healthy skin characterized in that it comprises the topical application on at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or healthy mucous membrane of a shea butter extract according to the present invention or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising it.

[0334] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the invention to modify the rheology of a composition, and / or to gel an oily composition and / or a glycol and / or an alcohol and / or the oily phase of a composition and / or the aqueous phase of a composition, and / or to maintain and / or increase the stability of an emulsion and / or to increase the hydrophobic character of a composition.

[0335] For the purposes of the present invention, "modifying the rheology of a composition" means any modification of the viscosity and / or plasticity and / or elasticity of the composition.

[0336] In one embodiment, the modification of the rheology of the composition corresponds to maintaining and / or increasing the viscosity, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the plasticity, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the elasticity of the composition.

[0337] Viscosity, plasticity and / or elasticity measurements may be carried out by all the methods classically used by a person skilled in the art.

[0338] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent in a composition.

[0339] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention to gel an oily composition, said oily composition being chosen from the list including mineral oils, vegetable oils and / or their ester-type derivatives, mineral oils, esterified oils and / or linear and / or branched alkanes from C10 to C44.

[0340] One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for polyols.

[0341] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for glycols and / or glycerol and / or polyglycerols.

[0342] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for polyethylene glycol and / or propylene glycol.

[0343] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent for glycols in a toothpaste composition.

[0344] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent and / or for gelling alcohols.

[0345] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a gelling agent and / or for gelling denatured ethyl alcohols (INCI: ALCOHOL DENAT) and / or isopropyl alcohols (INCI: ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) and / or fatty alcohols from C6 to C44.

[0346] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the present invention as a thickener in a composition.

[0347] For the purposes of the present invention, "maintaining and / or increasing the stability of an emulsion" means maintaining a homogeneous mixture and / or preventing the emulsion from separating into its two constituent phases.

[0348] In one embodiment, the emulsions are oil-in-water emulsions.

[0349] In one embodiment, the emulsions are water-in-oil emulsions.

[0350] One embodiment according to the invention relates to the use of a butter extract of shea butter according to the present invention to increase the hydrophobic character of a cosmetic composition, in particular for the manufacture of varnishes and / or foundations and / or sun products and / or products for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes.

[0351] Another object of the present invention relates to a method for modifying the rheology of a composition, and / or for gelling an oily composition and / or a glycol and / or an alcohol and / or the aqueous phase of a composition and / or the oily phases of a composition, and / or for stabilizing an emulsion and / or for increasing the hydrophobic character of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for the manufacture of nail polish and / or foundations and / or sunscreens, and / or a product for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises the addition in said composition or in said emulsion of a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0352] An embodiment according to the invention relates to a gelling process of an oily composition characterized in that it comprises the addition in said alcohol of a shea butter extract according to the invention, said oily composition being chosen from the list comprising mineral oils, vegetable oils, mineral oils, esterified oils and / or linear and / or branched alkanes from C10 to C40.

[0353] An embodiment according to the invention relates to a gelling process of denatured ethyl alcohol (INCI: ALCOHOL DENAT) and / or isopropyl alcohol (INCI: ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) and / or fatty alcohols from C6 to C44, characterized in that it comprises the addition in said alcohol of a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0354] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of a shea butter extract according to the invention as a substitute and / or equivalent for fossil paraffins, dimethicones, lanolin and / or petrolatum, and / or natural waxes in particular beeswax, carnauba and / or candelilla wax, particularly in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboards, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and / or pharmaceutical products.

[0355] Another object of the present invention relates to a method of substituting a compound chosen from the list consisting of paraffins of fossil origin, dimethicones, lanolin and / or petrolatum and / or natural waxes in particular beeswax, carnauba and / or candelilla wax, in particular in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboards, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and / or pharmaceutical products characterized in that the substitution is carried out by replacing the compound with a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0356] Another object of the present invention relates to a shea butter extract according to the invention for use alone or in a pharmaceutical composition, particularly dermatological, in the treatment and / or prevention of burns to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or chapped skin and / or scabies and / or pityriasis alba and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness of the skin and / or mucous membranes that accompany skin conditions and / or mucous membrane pathologies such as eczema, and / or to maintain or improve the hydration of the skin and / or mucous membranes of damaged, sensitive, sensitized, altered, intolerant, fragile and / or reactive skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or in the treatment of scaly conditions and / or itching related to dryness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of lice. and / or parasites and / or as an SPF booster.

[0357] For the purposes of the present invention, "SPF booster" means a formulation intended to increase sun protection against UVA and / or UVB rays in combination with chemical and / or mineral sunscreens

[0358] An embodiment according to the invention relates to the shea butter extract according to the invention for its use as an anti-lice and / or anti-parasitic agent by oxygen-depriving occlusive effect.

[0359] Another object according to the invention relates to a method for the therapeutic treatment and / or prevention of burns to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or chapped skin and / or scabies and / or pityriasis alba and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dry skin and / or mucous membrane conditions that accompany skin conditions and / or mucous membrane pathologies such as eczema, and / or to maintain or improve the hydration of the skin and / or mucous membranes of skin and / or mucous membranes that are damaged, sensitive, sensitized, altered, intolerant, fragile and / or reactive, and / or in the treatment of scaly conditions and / or itching related to dry skin and / or mucous membranes and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of lice and / or parasites and / or as an SPF booster characterized in that it comprises the application to the area to be treated of a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0360] In the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise stated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0361] Example 1: Process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0362] Fractionation of shea butter

[0363] One kilogram of raw shea butter (origin: Ghana) is mixed with 5 liters of acetone in a stirred reactor equipped with a condenser. The mixture is refluxed for 30 minutes until the shea butter is completely dissolved. The mixture is then cooled to 25°C for one hour and subsequently filtered and dewatered under vacuum. After removal of the liquid phase containing olein and stearin, a brown to light brown precipitate A is recovered with a yield of 3.2%, or 32 g of material.

[0364] Process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to the invention

[0365] Precipitate A from the shea butter fractionation process is heated to 80°C with stirring until completely melted. 160 g of 10% sodium hydroxide solution is added. The mixture is refluxed with stirring at 120°C for 30 minutes. 100 g of water is added to the mixture with constant stirring, and the temperature is maintained at 120°C for 2 hours. Stirring is stopped, and the mixture is allowed to settle for 2 hours at 120°C. The heavy soapy phase is then separated and discarded. The light phase is washed with 100 g of demineralized water. After settling, the heavy aqueous phase is separated and discarded. The demineralized water washing operation is repeated 5 times until a pH of 6.5 is obtained. The light phase is then dried under vacuum at 500 mbar and with stirring at 140°C for 3 hours. This yields a shea butter extract according to the invention, which is in solid form and light beige in color..

[0366] The shea butter extract according to the invention is finally finely ground and dried under vacuum (40 mbar) in an oven at 60°C for 48 hours. The final yield extracted of shea butter according to the invention compared to the precipitate from the shea butter fractionation process is 43% or 13.7 g of material.

[0367] Example 2: Determination of the physico-chemical characteristics of the shea butter extract according to the invention.

[0368] The determination of the saponification index is carried out using the standard method NF ISO 3657.

[0369] The determination of the acid number is carried out using the standardized method NF EN ISO 660

[0370] The determination of the iodine value is carried out using the standardized method NF NF ISO 3961

[0371] The determination of the unsaponifiable content is carried out using the standard method NF EN ISO 18609.

[0372] The determination of the relative content of triterpenic alcohols and sterols and / or methyl sterols is carried out by gas chromatography as follows.

[0373] A quantity of 0.5 g of the shea butter extract to be tested and 2 mL of 2 M potassium hydroxide ethanolic solution are introduced into a 10 mL test tube. The test tube is then sealed with an airtight stopper and vigorously shaken using a vortex mixer. It is then heated to 90°C in an oil bath for 30 minutes and then cooled to room temperature. 2 mL of hexane, 0.2 mL of ethanol, and 1 mL of demineralized water are added. The mixture is then vigorously shaken using a vortex mixer. The mixture is allowed to settle for 30 minutes. 1.5 mL of the supernatant hexane phase is withdrawn and introduced into a vial. One ml of pyridine containing 1 mg of sorbitol per ml of pyridine, 0.5 ml of hexamethyldisilazane, and 0.5 g of chlorotrimethylsilane are added to this solution. The mixture is then filtered through a filter cartridge (0.45 µm syringe filter).The filtrate is then analyzed by gas chromatography GC-FID under the following conditions: . • GC-FID VARIAN 3800 chromatograph • BP5-MS capillary column: L30m, ID 0.32mm, stationary phase thickness 0.25pm • Volume of solution injected: 2 pl • Injector temperature: 260°C • Column temperature: 60°C for 1 minute, then increase Temperature increase from 30°C / min to 180°C, hold for 5 minutes at 180°C, then increase temperature again by 3°C / min to 285°C • Detector temperature: 290°C • Carrier gas: hydrogen • Carrier gas flow rate: 1 ml / min

[0374] The results are expressed in relative proportion with respect to the total weight of the compound to be tested.

[0375] The determination of the softening temperature and the decomposition temperature is carried out by DSC-TGA according to the method as follows.

[0376] A quantity of 50 mg of the shea butter extract according to the invention is placed in a platinum crucible. An SDT Q600 V8.3 Build 101 calorimeter equipped with a standard DSC-TGA model is used for thermal analysis. The analysis is carried out in the presence of air with a flow rate fixed at 100 ml / min. The crucible is then gradually heated according to a temperature ramp of 10°C / min, the temperature range of the analysis being between 25 and 800°C.

[0377] The results of the different tests are presented in Table 1. [Tables 1] Raw Shea Butter Precipitate A according to Example 1 Shea Butter Extract according to Example 1 Saponification Value (mg KOH / g) 173.18 127.0 7.9 Acid Value (mg KOH / g) 6.2 11.0 1.0 Iodine Value (I2 / 100 g) 62.0 64.0 100.3 Unsaponifiable Content (%) 9.2 16.4 91.1 Relative Triterpene Alcohol Content (%) 68.4 16.2 1.8 Relative Methylsterol Content (%) 9.7 3.9 0.6 Softening Temperature (°C) <20 <25 >180 Decomposition Temperature (°C) sius) >400 >400 >480

[0378] Conclusion: The shea butter extract according to the invention possesses entirely novel physicochemical properties. The unsaponifiable content of the shea butter extract is very high (> 90%). The fraction of unsaponifiable compounds is significantly depleted in triterpenic alcohols and sterols / methylsterols compared to the unsaponifiable fraction of shea butter.

[0379] Example 3: Demonstration of the gelling and thickening power of the shea butter extract according to the invention in a vegetable oil.

[0380] The shea butter extract according to the invention as obtained in Example 1 is mixed with refined sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus dulcis (Almond) seed oil - Supplier: Pharmac) in the proportions indicated in Table 2, to achieve a final weight of 200g.

[0381] The mixture is heated under magnetic stirring for several minutes, until the mixture reaches 85°C.

[0382] It is then mixed using a rotor / stator at 3000 rpm until the mixture reaches 40°C.

[0383] It is then mixed under planetary stirring up to 25°C.

[0384] The measurement is carried out using an NDJ-1 viscometer with the motor moving at 4 to 12 rpm for 1 min

[0385] The results are presented in Table 2. The proportions are indicated by weight. [Tables 2] Viscosity (in mPa·s) Refined sweet almond oil <500 5% Shea butter extract according to example 1+ 95% Refined sweet almond oil 4,500 10% Shea butter extract according to example 1+ 90% Refined sweet almond oil 27,000 15% Shea butter extract according to example 1+ 85% Refined sweet almond oil 78,000

[0386] Conclusions: When dispersed under heat in refined sweet almond oil, the shea butter extract according to the invention significantly increases the viscosity of the mixture. The resulting oily gel is opaque, homogeneous, and its viscosity increases with the percentage of shea butter extract according to the invention incorporated into the mixture.

[0387] Thus, the shea butter extract according to the invention makes it possible to modify the rheology of the composition, in particular to increase the viscosity and to gel an oily composition.

[0388] Example 4: Demonstration of the gelling and thickening power of the shea butter extract according to the invention an esterified oil.

[0389] The shea butter extract according to the invention as obtained in Example 1 is mixed with a caprylic / capric triglyceride oil (Myritol®318 BASF) in the proportions indicated in Table 3, to achieve a final weight of 200g.

[0390] The mixture is heated under magnetic stirring for several minutes, until the mixture reaches 85°C.

[0391] It is then mixed using a rotor / stator at 3000 rpm until the mixture reaches 40°C.

[0392] It is then mixed under planetary stirring up to 25°C.

[0393] The measurement is carried out using an NDJ-1 viscometer using the mobile at 4 to 12 rpm for 1 min.

[0394] The results are presented in Table 3. The proportions are given by weight. Viscosity (in mPa.s) Myritol® 318 <500 5% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 95% Myritol® 318 2,500 10% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 90% Myritol® 318 14,500 15% Shea butter extract according to example 1 + 85% Myritol® 318 35,000

[0395] Conclusion: When dispersed under heat in Myritol® 318, the shea butter extract according to the invention significantly increases the viscosity of the mixture. The resulting oily gel is opaque, homogeneous, and its viscosity increases with the percentage of the shea butter extract according to the invention incorporated into the mixture. Thus, the shea butter extract according to the invention makes it possible to modify the rheology of the composition, in particular to increase the viscosity and to gel the oily composition.

[0396] Example 5: Composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0397] A composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion made up of the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 4] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Cetiol c5 BASF Coco-caprylate 6.00 Shea butter extract as per example 1 5.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric triglyceride 6.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mes h QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 3.00 C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) m ethylparaben 0.80

[0398] The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a suitably sized glass beaker and heating this mixture to 85°C under magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is also heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When both phases A and B have reached 85°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B, under rotor / stator stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, and then the mixture is cooled in a cold water bath under planetary stirring at a speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C.Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C under planetary stirring, at a stirring speed between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

[0399] Example 6: Composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0400] A composition according to the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion made up of the following four phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 5] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Paraffin oil code standard 1 AIGLON Paraffinum liquidum 6.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric triglyceride 6.00 B1 Shea butter extract as per example 1 0.25 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 10.00 B2 Xanthan gum 80 mg QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.10 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

[0401] The process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a suitably sized glass beaker and heating this mixture to 85°C under magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B1 are mixed and this mixture is heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When phase B1 has reached 85°C, it is mixed using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, and then the mixture is cooled under rotor / stator stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm until it reaches 50°C. Phase B2 is then heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When both phases A and B2 have reached a temperature of 85°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B, under agitation in the rotor / stator, at a speed of 3000 rpm.Agitation is maintained for 5 minutes then . The entire assembly is cooled using a cold water bath, under planetary mixing, at a speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm, until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added, along with mixture B1 at 30°C, under planetary mixing, at a speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

[0402] Example 7: Composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0403] A composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion constituted from the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below [Tableauxô] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Plurol diisostearic GATTEFOSSE Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 5.00 Paraffin oil code standard 1 AIGLON Paraffinum liquidum 10.00 Shea butter extract as per example 1 3.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric triglyceride 8.00 B Xanthan gum 80 ml QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP Ronacare magnesium sulfate MERCK KGAA Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Ronacare sodium chloride MERCK KGAA Sodium chloride 1.00 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 5.00 C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (And) Ethylparaben (And) Methylparaben 0.80

[0404] The process for preparing water-in-oil emulsion essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a suitably sized glass beaker and heating this mixture to a temperature of 85°C under magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When both phases A and B have reached 85°C, phase B is slowly poured into phase A, under rotor / stator stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, then the mixture is cooled in a cold water bath under planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C under planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until completely homogenized.

[0405] Example 8: Composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0406] A composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion made up of the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 7] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Plurol diisostearic GATTEFOSSÉ Polyglyceryl-3-dose ostearate 5.00 Paraffin oil code standard 1 AIGLON Paraffinum liquidum 10.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric triglyceride 8.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mes h QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Shea butter extract as per example 1 - 3.00 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP Ronacare magnesium sulfate MERCK KGAA Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Ronacare sodium chloride MERCK KGAA Sodium chloride 1.00 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 5.00 C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) methylparaben 0.80

[0407] The process for preparing water-in-oil emulsion is identical to that according to Example 7.

[0408] Example 9: Composition according to the invention in the form of a sunscreen.

[0409] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a sunscreen made up of the following three phases, has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 8] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside 3.00 Montanov s SEPPIC Coco-glucoside & coconut alcohol 2.00 Shea butter extract as per example 1 5.00 Tinosorb s BASF Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3.00 Uvinul mc80 BASF Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 8.00 Uvinyl tl50 BASF Ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5.00 B Xanthan gum 80 mes h QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.30 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 5.00 C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) m ethylparaben 0.80

[0410] The process for preparing a sunscreen essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a suitably sized glass beaker and heating this mixture to 85°C under magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B are mixed and this mixture is also heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When both phases A and B have reached 85°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B, under rotor / stator stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, and then the mixture is cooled in a cold water bath under planetary stirring at a speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C while stirring. planetary mixer, at a stirring speed between 700 and 1200 revolutions / min until complete homogenization.

[0411] Example 10: Composition according to the invention in the form of a mattifying serum.

[0412] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a mattifying serum made up of the following three phases has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 9] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Shea butter extract as per example 1 1.25 Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 50.00 B Xanthan gum 80% QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0.10 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) ethylparaben 0.80

[0413] The process for preparing a mattifying serum essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a suitably sized glass beaker and heating this mixture to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When phase A has reached 85°C, it is mixed using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, then the mixture is cooled under rotor / stator stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm until it reaches 50°C. During this time, phase B is heated to 50°C under magnetic stirring. When both phases A and B have reached 50°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B under rotor / stator stirring at a speed of 3000 rpm.The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes, then cooled in a cold water bath using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until completely homogenized.

[0414] Example 11: Composition according to the invention in the form of a sun stick.

[0415] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a sun stick has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 10] Phase Nom commercial Fournisseur Nom INCI % A Kahlwax 8108 Kahl GmbH & Co Cera alba (beewax) 12,00 Carnauba waxtl NATURA-TEC Copemicia cerifera c era 3,50 Naturasoft shea NATURA-TEC Butyrospermum park ii butter 4,00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric trigl yceride Q.S.P Extrait de beurre de karité selon l’exempl e 1 5,00 Solaveil cz-300 CRODA Zinc oxide & caprylic / capric triglycéride & polyhy droxy stearic acid & isostearic acid 30,00 Solaveil xt-300 CRODA Titanium dioxide ( and) caprylic / capric triglycéride & polyhy droxy stearic acid & s tearic acid & alumina 20,00 Cithrol pg32is CRODA Polyglyceryl-3 diisost earate 2,00

[0416] The process for preparing a sunscreen stick essentially consists of mixing all the ingredients of phase A one by one in a suitably sized glass beaker. This mixture is then heated to a temperature of 85°C under magnetic stirring. Once the mixture has reached 85°C, it is blended using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, and then the mixture is poured into suitable packaging.

[0417] Example _ 12: Composition according to the invention in the form of a lipstick

[0418] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a lipstick made up of the following two phases has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tableauxll] Phase Commercial Name Supplier Name INCI % A Natura-tec jojoba oil NATURA-TEC Simmondsia chinens is (jojoba) seed oil 10,00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric trigl yceride 18,00 Mod cyl mb O8 myrtedoSS0 ta Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 B Kahlwax 8108 Kahl GmbH & Co Cera alba (beewax) 10.00 Natura-tec carnauba waxtl NATURA-TEC Carnauba wax 6.50 Natura-tec candelilla wax Candelilla Ca andelilla-0 GATTEFOSSÉ Cl0-18 triglycerides 2,00 Dk pgt paste r7 Daito Kasei Polyglyceryl-2 triisos tearate, red 7 18,00 Dk pgt paste ti Daito Kasei Titanium dioxide, pol yglyceryl-2 triisostea rated, t0 ro aluminum CHEMISTRY Tocopherol 0.50

[0419] The process for preparing a lipstick essentially consists of mixing all the ingredients of phase A one by one in a suitably sized glass beaker. This mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C under magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached 85°C, it is mixed using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. All the ingredients of phase B are mixed one by one in a suitably sized glass beaker. This mixture is heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached 85°C, it is cooled using planetary mixing at a stirring speed of between 700 and 1200 rpm. min, until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 70°C. Phase A is added to phase B and then poured into a suitable mold.

[0420] Example 13: Composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion foundation.

[0421] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a foundation made up of the following five phases has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 12] Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % Al Unipure white lc987 ba SENSIENT Ci 77891 (and)per sea gratissima (avoca do) oil (and) hydroge nated vegetable oil (and) tocopherol 20.30 Unipure yellow Ici 82 ba SENSIENT Ci 77492 (and)per sea gratissima (avoca do) oil (and) hydroge nated vegetable oil ( and) tocopherol 2.60 Unipure red lc381 ba SENSIENT Ci 77491 (and)per sea gratissima (avoca do) oil (and) hydrogen nated vegetable oil (and) tocopherol 0.85 Unipure black lc989 ba SENSIENT Ci 77499 (and)per sea gratissima (avoca do) oil (and) hydrogen nated vegetable oil ( and) tocopherol 0.20 OLVEA refined castor oil Ricinus communis s eed oil 4.50 A2 Plurol diisostearique GATTEFOSSÉ Polyglyceryl-3 diisost earate 1.00 Cithrol pg3pr CRODA Polyglyceryl-3 poly ricinoleate 3.00 A3 Shea butter extract according to example 1 2.50 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric trigl yceride 5.00 Cetiol c5 BASF Coco-caprylate 4.00 B Demineralized water - Aqua (water) QSP Glycérine 99,5% BASF Glycerin 3,00 C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) m ethylparaben 0,80

[0422] The process for preparing a foundation essentially consists of preparing phase A1 by mixing the ingredients and blending them using a three-roll mill. This operation is repeated three times. In a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase A3 are mixed. This mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C under magnetic stirring. When the mixture has reached 85°C, it is blended in a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. In a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase A1 are mixed with the ingredients of phase A2, and this mixture is heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. Phase A3 is then incorporated into the mixture of phases A1 and A2. Meanwhile, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B are mixed, and this mixture is heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring.When both phases A1+A2+A3 and B have reached a temperature of 85°C, phase B is slowly poured into phase A1+A2+A3, while the mixture is stirred using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, then the mixture is cooled in a cold water bath, using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm, until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until completely homogenized.

[0423] Example _ 14: Composition according to the invention in the form of a foundation in oil-in-water emulsion.

[0424] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion foundation made up of the following five phases shall have a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 13] Phase Nom commercial Fournisseur Nom INCI % A Montanov 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl alcohol & ce tearyl glucoside 3,00 Lanette o BASF Cetearyl alcohol 2,00 Cetiol oe BASF Dicaprylyl ether 4,00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric trigl yceride 5,00 Lipocire a GATTEFOSSÉ Cl0-18 triglycérides 3,00 B1 Covarine white wn 9787 SENSIENT Titanium dioxide, water, glycerin, xant han gum, sodium ci trate 12,00 Covarine yellow wn 1798 SENSIENT Iron oxides, water, g lycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 3,50 Covarine red wn 37 98 SENSIENT Iron oxides, water, g lycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 0,95 Covarine black wn 9798 SENSIENT Iron oxides, water, g lycerin, xanthan gum, sodium citrate 0,32 B2 Eau déminéralisée - Aqua (water) Q.S.P Extrait de beurre de karité selon l’exempl e 1 2,50 Glycérine 99,5% BASF Glycerin 3,00 Xanthan gum 80 mes h QUIMASSO Xanthan gum 0,30 C Microcare pm3 THOR Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylparaben (and) m ethylparaben 0,80

[0425] The process for preparing water-in-oil emulsion foundation essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase A in a suitably sized glass beaker, and this mixture is heated to a temperature of 85°C under magnetic stirring. Meanwhile, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B1 are mixed. Similarly, in a suitably sized glass beaker, the ingredients of phase B2 are mixed, and the mixture is heated to 85°C with magnetic stirring. When mixture B2 has reached 85°C, it is mixed with a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. Phase B1 is then added to phase B2 and mixed again with a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm for 5 minutes. When both phases A and (B1+B2) have reached 85°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase (B1+B2) while stirring with a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm.The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes, then cooled in a cold water bath using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until the emulsion reaches 30°C. Finally, the ingredients of phase C are added at 30°C using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until complete homogenization.

[0426] Example 15: Composition according to the invention in the form of a serum for hair treatment.

[0427] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in serum form for hair treatment made up of the following three phases has a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 14] Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name % A Shea butter extract according to example 1 5.00 Natura-tec sweet al mond oil NATURA-TEC Prunus amygdalus d ulcis oil 25.00 Natura-tec jojoba oil NATURA-TEC Simmondsia chinens is seed oil 12.00 Myritol 318 BASF Caprylic / capric trigl yceride 25.00 B Natura-tec coconut oil NATURA-TEC Cocos nucifera oil QSP C Bioxan sft 50 QUIMASSO Tocopherol 0.50

[0428] The process for preparing serum for hair treatment essentially consists of mixing all the ingredients of phase A one by one in a beaker in a suitably sized glass beaker. This mixture is heated to 85°C under magnetic stirring. Once the mixture has reached 85°C, it is mixed using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, then the mixture is cooled using planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 60°C. Meanwhile, phase B is heated to 60°C in a suitably sized glass beaker. When both phases A and B are at 60°C, phase B is added to phase A under planetary mixing at a speed of 700 to 1200 rpm until the temperature of the resulting emulsion reaches 30°C. Phase C is then added at 30°C.

[0429] Example 16: Composition according to the invention in the form of a toothpaste.

[0430] A cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of a toothpaste made up of the following four phases, having a weight composition as indicated below. [Tables 15] Phase Trade Name Supplier INCI Name % A Veegum d VANDERBILT Magnesium aluminum silicate 1.30 Demineralized water - Aqua (water) 10.10 Sorbitol 70% BASF Sorbitol 25.00 B Glycerin 99.5% BASF Glycerin 10.00 Shea butter extract as per example 1 0.25 C Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate - Dicalcium phosphate dihydrate q.s.p. D Flavor - Flavor 1.00 Saccharin - Saccharin 0.20 Sodium benzoate - Sodium benzoate 0.20 Sodium lauryl sulfate - Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.50

[0431] The process for preparing a toothpaste essentially consists of mixing the ingredients of phase B in a suitably sized glass beaker and heating this mixture to a temperature of 85°C under magnetic stirring. When phase B has reached a temperature of 85°C, it is mixed using a rotor / stator at a speed of 3000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 5 minutes, and then the mixture is cooled using from a cold water bath, under planetary mixing, at a mixing speed between 700 and 1200 rpm, until the temperature of the emulsion thus obtained reaches 30°C. Then incorporate into this mixture the ingredients of phase A, then C, then D, under planetary mixing, at a mixing speed between 700 and 1200 rpm.

[0432] Example 17: Demonstration of the effect of the shea butter extract according to the invention on the melting temperature of a composition comprising it.

[0433] A quantity of 2 g of shea butter extract according to Example 1 and 98 g of hydrogenated castor oil, previously heated to 80°C, are introduced into a suitably sized flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer. The temperature of the mixture is raised to 150°C under stirring for 20 minutes. Then, 50 mg of the mixture and of each of the two compounds are taken separately for analysis by DSC according to a protocol identical to that of Example 2. The results from the analysis of the thermograms are as follows: [Tables 16] Compound Melting Point Temperature Other Melting Points Shea butter extract according to example 1 >180°C None Hydrogenated castor oil 88°C None Mixture Hydrogenated castor oil - Shea butter extract according to example 1 96°C None

[0434] Hydrogenated castor oil has a melting point of 88°C. The shea butter extract according to the invention has a softening point above 180°C. The hydrogenated castor oil-shea butter extract mixture according to the invention has a melting point of 96°C.

[0435] None of the 3 compounds analyzed by DSC exhibits a melting point other than that observed.

[0436] The addition of the shea butter extract according to the invention makes it possible to produce a homogeneous mixture having a single melting point.

[0437] These results indicate that it is possible to produce a homogeneous mixture with a high melting point (> 85°C) consisting of a binary mixture based on shea butter extract according to the invention.

Claims

Demands

1. Shea butter extract characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 85% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract and a relative triterpenic alcohol content less than or equal to 20% (w / w) by weight of triterpenic alcohols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable.

2. Shea butter extract according to claim 1, characterized in that it has an unsaponifiable content greater than or equal to 90% (w / w) by weight of unsaponifiable relative to the total weight of the extract.

3. Shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it has a relative sterol and / or methyl sterol content of less than or equal to 10% (w / w) by weight of sterols and / or methyl sterols relative to the total weight of unsaponifiable matter.

4. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a saponification index less than or equal to 30 mg KOH / g.

5. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a softening temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 160°C and / or a decomposition temperature measured by ATD-ATG greater than or equal to 450°C.

6. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is hydrogenated.

7. Shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is treated with an alcohol.

8. Composition comprising a shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims.

9. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier an extract of shea butter according to any one of claims 1 to 7.

10. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it further comprises an active ingredient.

11.

12.

13.

14. A process for obtaining a shea butter extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a. We have a precipitate obtained from a shea butter fractionation process, b. a saponification step is carried out on said precipitate in a concentrated sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide solution, c. Dilution in hot water and hot decantation are carried out, d. The soapy phase is removed to obtain a light phase, e. The light phase obtained in step d) is washed with demineralized water and / or a saline solution, f. The washed light phase obtained in step e) is dried. said process being carried out in the absence of solvents from the family of linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes, and / or from the family of aromatic compounds and / or the saponification step d) being carried out in the absence of alcohol. A process according to claim 11, characterized in that steps b), d) and / or e) are carried out hot. A method for modifying the rheology of a composition, and / or for gelling an oily composition and / or a glycol and / or an alcohol and / or the aqueous phase of a composition and / or the oily phases of a composition, and / or for stabilizing an emulsion and / or for increasing the hydrophobic character of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for the manufacture of nail polish and / or foundations and / or sunscreens, and / or a product for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises the addition in said composition or in said emulsion, of a shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7. A process according to claim 13, for gelling a denatured ethyl alcohol and / or an isopropyl alcohol and / or a C6 to C44 fatty alcohol and / or a polyol and / or a glycol and / or a glycerol and / or a polyglycerol and / or a propylene glycol and / or a polyethylene glycol.

15. Shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for its use in the treatment and / or prevention of burns to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or chapped skin and / or scabies and / or pityriasis alba and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness of the skin or mucous membranes associated with skin and / or mucous membrane disorders such as eczema, and / or for maintaining or improving the hydration of the skin and / or mucous membranes of damaged, sensitive, sensitized, altered, intolerant, fragile, or reactive skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or in the treatment of scaly conditions and / or itching related to dryness of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of lice and / or parasites and / or as a booster of SPF.

16. Use of a shea butter extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 as substitutes and / or equivalents for fossil paraffins, dimethicones, lanolin and / or petrolatum, and / or natural waxes in particular beeswax, carnauba and / or candelilla wax, in particular in the field of coatings, inks, varnishes, papers, cardboards, adhesives, candles, plastics, rubbers, food products, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.