HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION
The hydrogel capsule-based hair conditioning composition with an inner oil core and polysaccharide shell addresses instability and uneven application in existing products, providing stable and effective conditioning benefits.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022005663
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-04-29
- Filing Date
- 2022-06-13
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-25
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-06-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair conditioning products often fail to provide long-lasting conditioning benefits and are unstable over time, leading to issues such as dryness, brittleness, and unmanageability in varying humidity conditions, and are difficult to apply evenly and rinse off.
A hair conditioning composition comprising hydrogel capsules with an inner oil core and outer polysaccharide thickened hydrogel shell suspended in a hydroalcoholic medium, providing a stable three-phase system that maintains conditioning benefits and is easy to apply and rinse.
The composition offers long-lasting conditioning effects, stability under various temperatures, and ease of application and rinsing, enhancing hair manageability and appearance.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION Technical field
[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetic products. In particular, the present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for conditioning hair. RELATED ART
[0002] The appearance and / or condition of keratin fibers are often affected by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors such as aging.
[0003] Keratin fibers, including hair, are constantly exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions, such as the sun, chemical damage, for example, from detergents, lightening agents, relaxing agents, dyeing agents and perms, heat, for example, from hair dryers or curlers, and stress or mechanical wear, for example, from brushing and styling activities. In addition, any type of hair may decrease in quality and / or quantity over time due to age and / or factors such as natural oiliness, sweat, skin cells from the scalp, pollution, dirt and extreme humidity conditions.
[0004] The factors described above may cause thinning of the hair and / or impair the visual appearance and feel of the hair, and lead to flat body and reduced volume.
[0005] For example, hair may dry out and lose its shine or color or become frizzy and less manageable in both low and high humidity conditions. In low humidity conditions, hair may dry out, and dry hair tends to be less shiny and more brittle. Conversely, in high humidity conditions, hair tends to absorb water, causing the hair to lose its shape and become unmanageable and unattractive.
[0006] Additionally, hair can lose its desirable attributes due to physical stress on the hair such as brushing and heat application. As such, these factors typically damage the keratin fibers, either by affecting the protective materials on the surface of the hair (the cuticle) or by altering the hair fiber internally (the cortex).
[0007] Thus, it is highly desirable to have products that provide conditioning benefits to the hair.
[0008] Additionally, for hair conditioning products, it is also desirable that the products be stable over time.
[0009] Thus, there is also a need to formulate a cosmetic hair care composition that can condition the hair and is stable over time. Summary of the invention
[0010] An object of the present invention is thus to develop a hair conditioning composition which can effectively provide the hair with conditioning benefits.
[0011] Another object of the present invention is thus to develop a hair conditioning composition which is stable over time and easy to use with various types of hair products such as conditioning products.
[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair conditioning composition comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprise:
[0013] a) an inner core comprising at least one oil; and
[0014] b) an outer hydrogel shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,
[0015] in which the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
[0016] The composition according to the present invention comprises an inner core oil phase, an outer shell hydrogel phase, and a liquid medium phase, thus it is a three-phase system, which is stable at room temperature, 4°C, and 45°C for at least 2 months.
[0017] The composition according to the present invention can provide conditioning benefits to the hair.
[0018] In addition, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and evenly to the hair, and can be rinsed easily.
[0019] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method of conditioning hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair.
[0020] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] In this document, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0022] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted to include all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.
[0023] In this document, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. "consisting of").
[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0025] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified depending on the desired performance obtained as required.
[0026] In this document, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it.
[0027] According to the first aspect of the present invention, a hair conditioning composition comprises hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprise:
[0028] a) an inner core comprising at least one oil; and
[0029] b) an outer hydrogel shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,
[0030] in which the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
[0031] Preferably, the weight ratio of capsules to medium is from 10:90 to 40:60, preferably from 20:80 to 40:60. Hydrogel capsules
[0032] As used herein, the term hydrogel capsule refers to beads consisting of an inner core and an outer hydrogel shell that covers and protects the core, wherein the outer shell is a hydrogel.
[0033] Advantageously, the hydrogel capsules have a particle size of 0.3 to 15 mm, preferably 1 to 10 mm, more preferably 2 to 6 mm.
[0034] In this document, the particle size of the hydrogel capsules refers to the average diameter thereof.
[0035] According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one oil and an outer hydrogel shell comprising at least one polysaccharide thickener. Inner core comprising at least one oil
[0036] According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one oil.
[0037] Herein, an "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0038] As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. The oil(s) can be volatile, preferably non-volatile.
[0039] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols, and ethers; or a mixture thereof.
[0040] The oil can be oils of vegetable or animal origin and synthetic oils.
[0041] Preferably, the oil is a triglyceride oil.
[0042] Preferably, the triglyceride oil has the following formula (I):
[0043] CH2(OOCRi)CH(OOCR2)CH2(OOCR3) (I)
[0044] wherein Rh R2 and R3 are independently selected from C6-C30 alkyl and C6-C30 alkenyl.
[0045] Advantageously, in formula (I), Rb R2 and R3 are independently selected from C6-C24 alkyl and C6-C24 alkenyl, preferably C6-C20 alkyl and C6-C20 alkenyl, more preferably C6-C14 alkyl and C6-C14 alkenyl, more preferably C6-C12 alkyl and C6-C12 alkenyl, most preferably C6-C10 alkyl and C6-C10 alkenyl, said alkyl or alkenyl is linear or branched.
[0046] In formula (I), Rb R2 and R3 may be different, or two or all of Rh R2 and R3 may be the same.
[0047] Examples of triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook.
[0048] Preferred triglyceride oils according to formula (I) are obtained from carboxylic acids with a carbon chain length in the range of C6 to C24, preferably C6 to C20, and more preferably C6 to C[8, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol.
[0049] In some embodiments, the triglyceride oils according to formula (I) are synthetic.
[0050] In some embodiments, the triglycerides according to formula (I) are of plant origin. For example, vegetable oils that comprise a triglyceride according to formula (I), or a triglyceride according to formula (I) obtained from vegetable oils may be used.
[0051] Triglyceride oils of plant origin according to formula (I) are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as sources of triglyceride according to formula (I) include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil and sunflower seed oil.
[0052] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a triglyceride oil selected from peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, sunflower seed oil, and a combination thereof.
[0053] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises soybean oil.
[0054] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 3 wt% to 40 wt%, more preferably from 5 wt% to 35 wt%, most preferably from 8 wt% to 25 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0055] The core may also include a fragrance.
[0056] The fragrance is not particularly limited.
[0057] One skilled in the art can adjust the amount of perfume by conventional means.
[0058] Outer hydrogel shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener
[0059] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises water and at least one polysaccharide thickener.
[0060] Advantageously, the outer core has a thickness of 0.1 to 2 μm, preferably 0.1 to 1.5 μm.
[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polysaccharides" is intended to mean a polymer consisting of sugar units.
[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0063] The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0064] The sugar units that may be included in the polysaccharide thickener of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0065] In particular, mention may be made, as polysaccharides, of native gums such as:
[0066] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
[0067] - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0068] - gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
[0069] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0070] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
[0071] b) algae-derived gums, including:
[0072] - agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
[0073] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0074] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and sulfate of anhydrogalactose);
[0075] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
[0076] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0077] - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0078] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0079] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
[0080] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0081] d) microbial gums, including:
[0082] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0083] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0084] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer).
[0085] The polysaccharide(s) of the composition according to the invention may also be chosen from mixtures of the above polysaccharides.
[0086] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As a physical treatment, heat treatment can in particular be mentioned.
[0087] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may in particular be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.
[0088] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums and carob gums.
[0089] The non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0090] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0091] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0092] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0093] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0094] The cationic guar gum is preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, typically commercially available under the trade name JAGUAR C 162, from the company Rhodia.
[0095] In a particularly preferred manner, the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from:
[0096] - agar-agar,
[0097] - the guars, and
[0098] - combinations of these compounds,
[0099] these polysaccharide thickeners being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction,
[0100] Even more preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is selected from agar-agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
[0101] The polysaccharide thickener may be inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates, cellulose phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates may be mentioned.
[0102] The polysaccharide thickener may be non-ionic cellulose ethers, including (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0103] The polysaccharide thickener may be anionic cellulose ethers, of which mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. For example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
[0104] The polysaccharide thickener may be cationic cellulose ethers, of which mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0105] In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least two distinct polysaccharides such as those mentioned above.
[0106] In particular in this preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of agar, celluloses and guar such as those mentioned above, in particular a combination of agar-agar and hydroxyalkyl guar cationic such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and a hydroxyalkyl cellulose such as hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
[0107] Advantageously, the polysaccharide thickener is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] Advantageously, the outer shell of the capsules comprises from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of agar-agar and from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of cationic hydroxyalkylguar, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0109] More advantageously, the outer shell of the capsules comprises from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of agar-agar and from 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0110] The envelope may also comprise a pigment.
[0111] The pigment is not particularly limited.
[0112] For example, the pigment may be selected from titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, aluminum hydroxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, silver powder, gold powder, barium sulfate, carbon black, mica, and a mixture thereof.
[0113] In some embodiments, the outer shell in the composition according to the present invention comprises mica as a pigment. Liquid medium
[0114] According to the first aspect, the liquid medium in the composition according to the invention is a hydroalcoholic medium.
[0115] In particular, the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium comprising water and monoalcohols and / or polyols, preferably polyol.
[0116] The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds comprising numerous hydroxyl groups. In certain cases, the one or more polyols is / are chosen from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols. The one or more polyols are liquid at room temperature (25°C). The one or more polyols may comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0117] The monoalcohols can be ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.
[0118] The polyols that may be included in the compositions of the present disclosure, in some cases, are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, polyethylene glycols, caprylyl alcohol, diglycerin, glycerin, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, the polyol is butylene glycol. In certain other cases, the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol. Additionally, in some cases, the compositions comprise at least butylene glycol, and one or more polyols other than butylene glycol such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and / or glycerin.
[0119] Non-limiting examples of polyols which may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include and / or may be selected from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether,diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and a mixture thereof.
[0120] The one or more polyols may optionally be glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. In some cases, the one or more polyols may include or are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
[0121] In one or more embodiments, the at least one polyol comprises one or more glycols.
[0122] Preferably, the glycols are selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0123] Even more preferably, the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol, in particular, 1,3-butylene glycol. Most preferably, the butylene glycol is produced by biotechnology.
[0124] Advantageously, the alcohol(s), in particular the polyol(s), is (are) present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 50% by weight, more preferably from 4% by weight to 40% by weight, most preferably from 4% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] In some embodiments, the medium comprises 50 to 80% by weight of water in the medium, relative to the total weight of the composition. Adjuvants or additives
[0126] The liquid medium or outer hydrogel shell of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, preservatives and bactericides, hair conditioners based on hydrophilic thickeners.
[0127] As examples of hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of celluloses as described above.
[0128] As a hair conditioner, mention may be made of cationic polymers, a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, silicones, aminosilicones.
[0129] Optionally, the hydrophilic thickener in the liquid medium is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 3 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0130] Preferably, the liquid carrier comprises 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a hair conditioning composition comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0132] a) an inner core comprising from 8% by weight to 25% by weight of soybean oil; and
[0133] b) an outer hydrogel shell comprising from 0.1 wt% to 1 wt% agar-agar and from 0.05 wt% to 1 wt% hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water;
[0134] wherein the liquid medium comprises from 2% by weight to 40% by weight of polyol, in particular butylene glycol, and from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, in particular hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and water. Preparation and use
[0135] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared firstly by preparing capsules and then suspending the hydrogel capsules in the liquid medium.
[0136] The capsules may be prepared by a known method. For example, the composition according to the present invention may be prepared as follows:
[0137] 1) a phase (A) for the outer shell is prepared separately to include all the ingredients in the outer shell;
[0138] 2) a phase (B) for the inner core is prepared separately to include all the ingredients in the core;
[0139] 3) a medium is prepared separately to include all the ingredients in the medium;
[0140] 4) the capsules are formed in a cooling base by a process dripping with both phases (A) and (B);
[0141] 5) the formed capsules are cleaned and mixed with the medium so that the capsules are suspended in the medium.
[0142] Methods for producing hydrogel capsules are well known in the art. In particular, hydrogel capsules can be prepared by phase separation with different surface tensions.
[0143] For example, a triple-flow concentric dripper can be used to prepare hydrogel capsules, the center is for the core phase, the middle layer is for the outer hydrogel shell wrapped concentrically around the core phase, the outer layer is for a gas flow or a cooling fluid.
[0144] The composition according to the present invention can be used individually or mixed with a cationic hair treatment system to enhance the conditioning benefits for the hair.
[0145] The composition can be used on wet or dry hair.
[0146] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a method of conditioning hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair.
[0147] In some embodiments, the method comprises the step of mixing the composition according to the present invention with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the resulting mixture to the hair.
[0148] The conditioning composition comprising a cationic conditioner is not particularly limited. For example, it may be any composition commonly used in the art, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, a di(Cl-C2 alkyl)(C12-C22 alkyl)hydroxy(Cl-C2 alkyl)ammonium salt, such as a dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propanetallowdiammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0149] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be combined with a mask preferably containing one or more cationic conditioners and then applied to the hair.
[0150] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustrating the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope. EXAMPLES
[0151] The main raw materials used, the trade names and the suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 1.
[0152] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier BUTYLENE GLYCOL BUTYLENE GLYCOL-1.3 KH NEOCHEM GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL REFINED CT SOYBEAN OIL ZOR AGAR AGAR A MORISHITA JINTA N HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIM ONIUM CHLORIDE JAGUAR C 162 SGI RHODIA (SOLV AY) HYDROXYPROPYL METH YLCELLULOSE METHOCEL K 15 M PR EMIUM DOW BLACK MICA COLORONA BLACKS TAR GREEN MERCK Invention Examples 1-3
[0153] The compositions according to the inventive examples (El.) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed in grams):
[0154] [Tables2] phase Components ELI EI.2 EL3 Core GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL 16.67 17.49 19.93 Shell AGAR 0.4 0.33 0.24 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIM ONIUM CHLORIDE 0.16 0.13 0.09 PIGMENTS 0.22 0.3 0.3 WATER 35 65 65 Liquid medium HYDROXYPROPYL METH YLCELLULOSE 0.16 0.16 0.54 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 32 5.21 5.86 WATER up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 Average capsule diameter* 3-5 mm 3-5 mm 3-5 mm
[0155] * The average diameter can be measured with a Brookhaven particle sizer from type BI90PLUS® based on quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS). Preparation procedure:
[0156] The above compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition of Invention Example 1 as an example.
[0157] 1) a phase (A) for the outer shell was prepared separately to include water, agar-agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and black mica;
[0158] 2) a phase (B) for the inner core was prepared separately to include soybean oil;
[0159] 3) a liquid medium was prepared separately to include butylene glycol, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and water;
[0160] 4) capsules were formed in a cooling base by a process dripping with both phases (A) and (B);
[0161] In particular, with syringe pumps, phase (B) was transported to the center of a triple-flow concentric dripper, phase (A) was transported to the intermediate layer of the concentric dripper, a concentric liquid column was formed by phase (A), and compressed air was expelled from the layer exterior of the concentric dripper to force the liquid column and phase (B) to be blown into small capsules and to drain into a collection container;
[0162] 5) The formed capsules, which are spherical, were cleaned and mixed with the liquid medium so that the capsules were suspended in the medium. Evaluation
[0163] A stability evaluation and a sensory evaluation were carried out on the compositions prepared above. Stability
[0164] The stability of each composition can be evaluated based on rapid stability tests under extreme conditions, total stability, and stability under stirring as follows. Stability tests:
[0165] The following tests were carried out
[0166] Stability under extreme conditions
[0167] The sample to be tested was placed in an oven at 50°C for 2 weeks.
[0168] The sample to be tested was placed in the refrigerator at -10°C for 24 hours.
[0169] Total stability
[0170] The samples to be tested were placed in an oven at 45°C, 4°C and room temperature, respectively, for two months.
[0171] After each test, the organoleptic properties Appearance, Color and Odor of the sample were checked.
[0172] The sample is considered stable if there is no separation between the capsules and the medium and no change in the organoleptic properties. Stability under stirring
[0173] The sample to be tested was loaded into a plastic box, and placed in a stir plate for a period of 60 minutes.
[0174] After the test was completed, the samples were opened and examined for capsule rupture. A white color signifies capsule rupture due to emulsification between the oil in the inner core and the liquid medium. The test was repeated 2 times.
[0175] The results for the stability tests are summarized in Table 3.
[0176] [Tables3] EI.2 Stability under extreme conditions Stable Total stability Stable Stability under agitation No color change In vivo sensory evaluation by experts
[0177] A half-head comparison between each composition of the invention examples 1-3 in combination with a hair mask (available under the name Kerastase Chronologiste Mask from the company L'Oréal) and a commercial product on the market sold under the name Kérastase Perles de caviar Chronologiste by the company Kérastase (which comprises agar-agar beads suspended in an aqueous gel) in combination with the same hair mask was carried out by inviting 6 models (women aged 30 to 50 years with a medium to high level of hair damage) to put the composition to be tested on the hair mask, to mix the beads in the mask and then apply the hair mask with the composition to be tested on the head, one half with the composition of the invention example to be evaluated, and the other half with the commercial product,and asking hair experts (hairdresser at Kérastase Salon and R&I) to provide feedback on usage and cosmetic performance.
[0178] The results of the sensory evaluation show that the compositions of the invention provide an improved conditioning effect compared to commercial products.
[0179] Mixing the beads with the mask is easier with the compositions of the invention, in particular with compositions EI.2 and EI.3.
[0180] The resulting inventive compositions after mixing are more uniform without pearl residue, thus facilitating the step of application to the hair. The resulting inventive mixtures are also easier to rinse.
[0181] It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention are stable and can provide conditioning benefits to the hair. At the same time, the compositions according to the present invention can be easily and evenly applied to the hair, and can be rinsed off easily.
Claims
Claims
1. A hair conditioning composition comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprise, based on the total weight of the composition: a) an inner core comprising from 8 wt% to 25 wt% soybean oil; and b) an outer shell of the capsules comprises from 0.1 wt% to 1 wt% agar and from 0.05 wt% to 1 wt% hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water; wherein the liquid medium comprises from 2 wt% to 40 wt% polyol and from 0.1 wt% to 2 wt% alkylcellulose.
2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the polyol has from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably, the polyol is selected from hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and combinations thereof.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, further comprising as hydrophilic thickener in the liquid medium at least one alkylcellulose, preferably selected from (Cl-C4) alkylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C4)alkyl(C 1 -C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and a combination thereof.
4. A method of conditioning hair comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 to the hair.
5. A method according to claim 4 comprising the step of mixing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the resulting mixture to the hair.