Makeup process with a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated compound in a first composition, and a polyphenol in direct emulsion as a second composition

Abstract

Makeup process with a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated compound in a first composition, and a polyphenol in direct emulsion as a second composition The present invention relates to a process for makeup of the skin and / or lips, preferably lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) a composition (B) is applied comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring material, at least one compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylenated and / or (poly)oxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated group, 2) a composition (A) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups.

Description

Title of the invention: Makeup process with a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated compound in a first composition, and a polyphenol in direct emulsion as a second composition

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a two-step process for making up the skin and / or the lips, in which a first composition is applied comprising at least one coloring matter and at least one compound Y comprising at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated group, then a second composition is applied in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups.

[0002] Today on the market for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as for example trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer - INCI name).

[0003] Furthermore, in recent years, there has been an increase in consumer demands regarding the composition of their cosmetic products. Indeed, consumers are seeking to use products with an increasingly high content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging types.

[0004] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.

[0005] The aim of the present invention is to propose a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, which is simple to implement and makes it possible to obtain a deposit having excellent resistance to the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup of the skin, the lips, color which is resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, particularly makeup removal products, such as certain micellar waters and makeup remover wipes, for example.

[0006] Furthermore, the present invention aims to propose a method making it possible to obtain a deposit with good resistance to the expected cosmetic effects, such as color, associated with an acceptable level of comfort.

[0007] These and other objectives are achieved by implementing the process for making up the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) a composition (B) is applied comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring matter, at least one compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylenated and / or (poly)oxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated group, 2) a composition (A) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups.

[0008] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

[0009] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), the body, the hands.

[0010] The makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0011] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrogen bond interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) is(are) made between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with polyphenol X.

[0012] By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.

[0013] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1,013.105 Pascals. POLYPHENOL X

[0014] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention comprise at least two different phenol groups in their structure.

[0015] By “polyphenol” is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene groups, in free or condensed form, each benzene group comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0016] By “different phenol groups” is meant chemically different phenol groups (not containing the same substituents).

[0017] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in the isolated state or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. The polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic cycle.

[0018] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0019] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavonoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0020] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.

[0021] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.

[0022] As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols

[0023] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechic tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, diffusinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurine, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanins.

[0024] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract with the INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark with the INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

[0026] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv, or LEXSOD M marketed by the company ICHIMARU PHARCOS. COMPOSE Y

[0027] The compound(s) Y are chosen from compounds comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylenated and / or (poly)oxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated group.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition, do not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

[0029] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from compounds whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

[0030] More particularly, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated esters and / or (poly)glycerolated, Polysorbate and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters, as well as their mixtures.

[0031] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds

[0032] Non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 20 glycerolated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as their mixtures.

[0033] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, Dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols

[0035] Among the compounds of this type, we can cite, alone or in mixtures:

[0036] * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of type R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, R representing an alkyl radical at C8-C30, representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, namely selected from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-3 Laureth-12, and Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, and Deceth-3, and Deceth-5, and Beheneth-10, and Steareth-2, and Steareth-10, and Steareth-2, and Steareth-21, and Steareth-100, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7, Trideceth-12, and their mixtures.

[0037] * Poloxyethylene and oxypropylene alcohols of type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o- (O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. Preferably, compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin

[0039] We can cite in particular, alone or in mixtures:

[0040] * Polyoxyethylenated glycerins, in particular oxyethylenated glycerin 26 EO (Glycereth-26).

[0041] * Polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol.

[0042] * Compounds of the type: R-(O-CH2-CH2)oO-CH2-CH(R')OH in particular the Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol.

[0043] * Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.

[0044] * Compounds of the type H(O-CR-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(R)HO)rH in particular PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer. Polyethylene glycols

[0045] As regards these compounds, the latter may be chosen, alone or in mixtures, from polyethylene glycols of the H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH type, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220, and mixtures thereof. The Poloxamers

[0046] Suitable for carrying out the invention are Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the following formula: HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)o (CH2-CH2-O)PH, and for example chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, as well as their mixtures.

[0047] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated esters

[0048] Suitable for example:

[0049] * Esters of polyethylene glycol and acid of the type: R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qOR or RO-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R In which R represent, identical or not, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, in C2-C20; n, p, q, average whole numbers, identical or not, varying from 2 to 150. They may in particular be chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propyleneglycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] * Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or acid polymer(s) carboxylic(s) optionally hydroxylated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising 2 with 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or in mixtures. Examples of such esters include PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyoxyethylene Palm Glyceride (200 EO) and Coconut Glyceride Blend polyoxyethylenes (7 EO), as well as their mixtures.

[0051] * Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or acid polymer(s) carboxylic(s) optionally hydroxylated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or in mixtures.Examples of such esters include PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyoxyethylene Palm Glyceride (200 EO) and Coconut Glyceride Blend polyoxyethylenes (7 EO), as well as their mixtures.

[0052] * Polyoxyethylene butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter.

[0053] * Polyoxyethylenated waxes, in particular chosen from ester waxes polyoxyethylenes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof

[0054] * Polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters, in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.

[0055] * PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate.

[0056] * Polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters, in particular chosen from PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.

[0057] * Polyoxyethylenated glycerolated esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate,

[0058] * Polyoxyethylenated lanolins such as Laneth-15,

[0059] * Their mixtures.

[0060] Sorbitol or sorbitan esters _ polyoxyethylenated and Polysorbate

[0061] These compounds are more particularly chosen from esters of sorbitol or sorbitan (also called sorbitan) and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or not, in C6-C40, advantageously in C8-C30, and comprise 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units.

[0062] Among the Polysorbate (INCI name), we can particularly mention the compounds with the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, as well as their mixtures. As regards the esters, we can mention PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.

[0063] Ester or ether derivatives of polyoxyethylenated sugars

[0064] Sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives such as, for example, polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as, for example, the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0065] Polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines _,

[0066] Suitable for carrying out the invention are polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, more particularly of formula RN[(CH2-CH2-O)H]q[(CH2-CH2-O)rH] with R representing a hydrocarbon group, saturated or not, in C8-C30, and q or r, identical or not, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50 and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine. Polyoxyethylenated polyamines such as for example PEG-15 Cocopolyamine may also be suitable.

[0067] Preferably, compound Y is chosen from polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated esters, polyglycerol esters, polysorbates, as previously described, as well as their mixtures.

[0068] COMPOSITIONS (A) COMPRISING POLYPHENOL(S) X

[0069] As indicated previously, composition (A) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which an oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).

[0070] Preferably, composition (A) is in a liquid form at room temperature.

[0071] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) preferably has a content of polyphenol(s) X of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A). More particularly, the content of polyphenol(s) X is between 2 and 50% by weight, even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Aqueous phase

[0072] The water content is more particularly greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0073] Composition (A) may optionally comprise at least one solvent, more particularly chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol; from liquid polyols (at room temperature and atmospheric pressure) having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; from C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes; as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, and C3-C8 liquid polyols, in particular propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, alone or in mixtures.

[0074] If they are present, the content of these solvents is less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0075] The pH of the aqueous phase of composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6. Oily phase

[0076] Composition (A) further comprises an oily phase.

[0077] The term “oily phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance chosen from oils, as well as possibly waxes, pasty substances and all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0078] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, other than the aforementioned compounds Y, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 1.013. 105Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0081] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0082] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0083] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104). Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0084] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore apolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as of the ester type. In particular, they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, and - branched C8-Ci6 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - their mixtures.

[0085] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457. Volatile silicone oils

[0086] Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, among others, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0087] As examples of such oils, mention may be made of octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0088] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether.

[0089] As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethyl palmitate hexyl, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - esters and polyesters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338; - fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0090] The oil may also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated, apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0091] The non-volatile, linear or branched, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0092] Said apolar, linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C15-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0093] The first non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0094] For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0095] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is chosen from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0096] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0097] More particularly, the concentration of oil(s), preferably non-volatile, of composition (A) is between 1 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (A).

[0098] More particularly, the concentration in oily phase of composition (A) is between 1 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (A).

[0099] According to a first variant of the invention, the oily phase of the composition (A) comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Preferably, according to this variant, the oil(s) are chosen from polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, preferably from ester type oils. As a particularly advantageous example, the composition (A) comprises at least one ester oil chosen from C4-C36 triglycerides, and in particular from vegetable oils. Preferably, the non-volatile oil is not chosen from silicone non-volatile oils.

[0100] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase more particularly comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based. Advantageously, the composition (A) does not comprise any volatile silicone oil. More particularly, the content of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based, is between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Surfactants

[0101] Composition (A) preferably comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0102] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means a amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. The HLB is greater than 8 for the preparation of O / W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0103] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are different from the compounds Y.

[0104] If the composition (A) comprises at least one surfactant chosen from the compounds Y, then the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, is less than 0.1.

[0105] Advantageously, if the composition (A) comprises at least one surfactant chosen from the compounds Y, then their content would preferably be less than 1.5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A). Common additives

[0106] The composition may also comprise any additional ingredient conventional in the field, such as, for example, waxes, in particular polar or apolar hydrocarbon waxes, pasty compounds, in particular hydrocarbons, such as, for example, compounds such as vegetable butters (for example, shea butter, cocoa butter, etc.), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (for example, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; organic solvents; aqueous phase thickening agents, such as xanthan gum; lipophilic phase thickening agents, such as silica and / or hydrophobic or non-hydrophobic modified clays; fillers; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, solar UV filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents.

[0107] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. COMPOSITION (B) COMPRISING COMPOUND(S) Y

[0108] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0109] Preferably, composition (B) is in a liquid form at room temperature. Hydrophilic phase

[0110] The composition may comprise a hydrophilic phase.

[0111] According to a first embodiment of the invention, composition (B) comprises at least water.

[0112] The quantity of water is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 35 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0113] Composition (B) may optionally comprise at least one solvent, more particularly chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol; from liquid polyols (at room temperature and atmospheric pressure) having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; from C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes; as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, and C3-C8 liquid polyols, in particular propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, alone or in mixtures.

[0114] If they are present, the content of these solvents varies from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0115] The pH of the aqueous phase of composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0116] According to another embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0117] The term “anhydrous composition” means any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight, or even less than 1% by weight; relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of water.

[0118] When composition (B) is anhydrous, it may comprise at least one of the above-mentioned solvents, in particular chosen from C2-C5 monoalcohols, more particularly C2-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, C3-C8 liquid polyols, in particular propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, alone or in mixtures. More particularly, the content of this type of solvent, if the composition comprises it, represents from 5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 15 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0119] When composition (B) is anhydrous, composition (B) may comprise an oily phase.

[0120] The oily phase concentration of the composition, if present, is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0121] Reference may be made to the description of the oily phase detailed previously for composition (A).

[0122] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present, then it preferably comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin. (also called isoparaffins) such as isodecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and more particularly isododecane.

[0123] Preferably, the oily phase does not contain volatile silicone oil.

[0124] Preferably, composition (B) is free of oily phase. Coloring Matter

[0125] Composition (B) comprises at least one coloring matter. The coloring matter(s) are synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0126] More particularly, the content of coloring matter(s) in composition (B) is at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned.

[0127] The coloring material(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Pigments

[0128] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in a medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0130] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0131] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0132] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0133] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the granulometric distribution of all the particles on a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0134] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0135] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. For example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0136] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0137] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0138] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0139] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0140] The mother-of-pearls may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0141] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0142] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic reflection particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be associated in so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0144] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (A) and / or the composition (B), according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0145] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0146] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0147] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0148] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0149] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0150] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0151] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0152] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0153] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0154] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0155] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0158] According to another particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0159] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0160] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0161] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0162] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0163] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0164] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0165] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0166] The pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition (B). More particularly, their content is at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (B). More particularly, the coloring matter content is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

[0167] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.

[0168] For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble coloring matter” means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0169] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

[0170] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

[0171] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, we can cite anthocyanins.

[0172] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.

[0173] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly cite carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0174] The water-soluble or fat-soluble dye(s), preferably present in composition (B), are used at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0175] Compositions (A) and (B) can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field. MAKE-UP PROCESSES

[0176] The method of making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to the invention therefore consists of implementing the following steps:

[0177] 1) a composition (B) comprising, in particular in a medium physiologically acceptable, at least one coloring matter, at least one compound Y as detailed previously,

[0178] 2) a composition (A) is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated. in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups.

[0179] More particularly, the first step takes place without mixing the two compositions together, more particularly the second layer is applied to the first, once the latter has dried. PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

[0180] Compositions (A) and (B) may each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0181] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

[0182] The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closing of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.

[0183] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of an element, deformable or not, made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

[0184] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0185] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

[0186] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0187] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0188] The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0189] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR2792618.

[0190] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0191] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0192] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

[0193] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0194] The following compositions were prepared: Composition (A) - Top Coat

[0195] [Tables] % Composition (Al) below 90 Tannic acid (LEXSOD M; ICHIMARU PHARCOS) 10 Composition (Al)

[0196] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Phase Water Qsp 100 Al Glycerin 7 Al (carnauba) Wax 1.5 B1 Cocos Nucifera (coconut) Oil 5 B1 Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil 3 B1 Undecane (and) Tridecane (Cetiol UT, BASF) 8 B1 Olea Europaea (olive) Fruit Oil 5 B2 Tocopherol 0.15 B2 Benzyl Alcohol 0.7 C Silica (Sunsphere H51, AGC SLTECH) 3 D

[0197] Method of manufacturing the composition (Al):

[0198] Mix the ingredients of phase Al at 72°C. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce compound A2 and disperse until a gelled liquid without lumps is obtained. Then add A3 and disperse until well hydrated. Prepare phase B1 by mixing the various ingredients and introduce phase B1 into the mixture previously obtained. Once the mixture is homogenized, add the ingredients of phase B2 while stirring. At 30°C, add ingredients C and D while stirring slowly. Manufacturing process for composition (A):

[0199] Add at room temperature, the tannic acid to the composition (Al) obtained previously, with stirring. Condition. Compositions (B)

[0200] The following compositions (Bl) and (B2) were prepared: Composition (Bl)

[0201] [Tables3] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight Butylene Glycol 5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Water Qsp 100 Red 7 15 Polysorbate 60 (SP Tween 60 MBAL-LQ-(MV), Croda) 5.5 Preparation method:

[0202] Under a rayneri, mix the water, butylene glycol, Polysorbate-60 and heat to 60°C. Once the mixture is homogeneous, turn off the heat and sprinkle the pigment while stirring. Continue stirring for 15 minutes then add the phenoxyethanol. Condition. Composition (B2)

[0203] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity % by weight Butylene Glycol 5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Water 74 Red 7 15 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Dermofeel G 10 L MB, Ev onik) 5.5 Manufacturing process of composition (B2):

[0204] Under rayneri, mix the water, butylene glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate and heat to 60°C. Once the mixture is homogeneous, turn off the heat and sprinkle the pigment while stirring. Maintain stirring for 15 minutes then introduce the phenoxyethanol. Condition. Application and evaluation

[0205] For makeup on the lips, composition (Bl) or (B2) is applied very easily with a dip applicator, allowing a very thin film to be obtained on the lips, with an intense, homogeneous color.

[0206] Once the composition has dried, composition (A) is applied over it.

[0207] A non-sticky, very comfortable deposit is obtained.

[0208] The whole does not transfer.

[0209] The resulting deposit was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical and chemical attacks: dry friction, water and oil.

[0210] Performance Evaluation Protocol#: 1. Test preparation:

[0211] Support#: Forearm, inner side; the test area represents a square surface of 4x5 cm.

[0212] Application of compositions (A) and (B): Spread composition (B) over the entire surface to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Allow the deposit to dry for 10 minutes. Spread over the composition (A) over the entire surface to obtain a uniform deposit. Allow the deposit to dry again for 15 minutes and carry out the test protocol. 2. Test protocol:

[0213] Series of requests: 1. Run under tap water at room temperature for 5 seconds then rub with your finger after 5 seconds. 2. Rub once with a Wypall cloth folded in 4. 3. Rub twice with a Garnier Skin Naturals Extra Gentle Micellar Cleansing Wipes, folded in 4. 3. Rating:

[0214] For each test, note the result according to this table#:

[0215] [Tables5] Note State of the deposit on the arm after the series of attacks Total or partial elimination of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places - Partial elimination resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense coloration of the deposit. + Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit perceptible but which does not reveal the support ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit +++ No variation in the color of the deposit

[0216] It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the resistance of the deposit, the latter comprises at least one coloring material whose coloring is sufficiently intense (for example a red coloring material, such as Red 7 in particular).

[0217] In the case of comparison of several compositions, the latter have the same shade (same quantity(ies) and same coloring matter(s)).

[0218] The resistance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.), can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts enabling a description of technical characteristics to be obtained - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299). Results

[0219] [Tableauxô] Requests Composition Step Step Step s 1 2 3 (B1) + (A) +++ +++ ++ (B2) + (A) +++ ++ +

Claims

Claims

1. Method for making up the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) a composition (B) is applied comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coloring matter, at least one compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, comprising at least one (poly)oxyethylenated and / or (poly)oxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated group, 2) a composition (A) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the skin and / or the lips thus treated, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

3. Method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.

4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.

5. Process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polyphenol(s) represents at least 2% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A).

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) comprises at least one oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (A).

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, chosen in particular from ester oils; preferably from C4-C36 fatty acid triglycerides, for example from vegetable oils.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based, preferably at a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) Y are chosen from compounds whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, and mixtures thereof.

13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y are chosen from: * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50; * Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, 0 and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50; * Polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms; or derivatives of vegetable oils; * Polysorbate; * Their mixtures.

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises water more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises at least one oily phase, preferably at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varying from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

17. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the composition (B) is free from oily phase.

18. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) optionally comprises at least one surfactant chosen from the compounds Y, with a ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, is less than 0.

1.

19. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) optionally comprises at least one surfactant chosen from the compounds Y, with a content less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises at least one solvent, more particularly chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, liquid polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes; as well as their mixtures, preferably from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, alone or in mixtures.

21. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) comprises at least one solvent at a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

22. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises at least one solvent at a content of between 0.5 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

23. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises less than 5% by weight of water and comprises at least one solvent at a content of between 5 and 85% by weight, preferably 15 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

24. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises at least one solvent, in particular chosen from C2-C8 monoalcohols, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol; from liquid polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; from C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes; as well as their mixtures.

25. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH of the aqueous phase of composition (A) and / or composition (B) is less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to A

26. d U. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B), preferably the composition (B) comprises at least one material coloring agent, in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.