Oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily dispersion of polymeric particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl stabilizing agent and a specific plasticizer

The cosmetic composition addresses the need for immediate skin smoothing and resistance to external aggressions by using an oil-in-water emulsion with polymer particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl stabilizing agent, forming a lasting, elastic, and resistant deposit on the skin.

FR3137831B1Active Publication Date: 2025-09-05LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022007241
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-07-13
Publication Date
2025-09-05
Estimated Expiration
2042-07-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetic compositions that aim to treat skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and fine lines, often require immediate effects and improved resistance to external aggressions, yet existing active ingredients take time to be effective, and film-forming polymers may not provide sufficient adhesion, elasticity, and resistance to bodily fluids and oils.

Method used

A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing polymer particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl stabilizing agent and a specific plasticizer, which forms a lasting deposit on the skin that adheres well, is elastic, resistant to detachment, and resistant to external aggressions like sweat and oils.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides immediate smoothing of wrinkles and fine lines with a residual film that remains adhered to the skin, exhibits good resistance to external aggressions, and maintains its properties over time without discoloring.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
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Abstract

Oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily dispersion of polymeric particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl stabilizing agent and a specific plasticizer The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising: - an oily dispersion comprising: i) one or more particles comprising one or more polymer(s) chosen from: a) ethylenic homopolymers of (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl, preferably of (C1-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl, and of b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl; in particular b2) is a (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly copolymers of (C1-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid;c) ethylenic copolymers of (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl, preferably of (C1-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; and ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) chosen from: d) ethylenic homopolymers of (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (C9-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylate; and e) ethylenic copolymers of e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, and of e2) (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl, preferably copolymers e) are copolymers of (C9-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylate and of (C1-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; iii) one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances, - diisopropyl adipate, and - at least one filler chosen from nacres, cellulose particles, hydrophobic silicas and mixtures thereof. Figure for abstract: None;
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Description

Title of the invention: Oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily dispersion of polymeric particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl stabilizing agent and a specific plasticizer

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising:

[0002] - an oily dispersion comprising:

[0003] i) one or more particles comprising one or more polymers chosen from:

[0004] a) ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably of (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylate;

[0005] b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, and of b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl; in particular b2) is a (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly copolymers of (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid;

[0006] c) ethylenic copolymers of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably of (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; and

[0007] ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) chosen from:

[0008] d) ethylenic homopolymers of (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl; and

[0009] e) ethylenic copolymers of el) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, and of e2) (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably copolymers e) are copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl and of (meth)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl;

[0010] iii) one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty bodies,

[0011] - diisopropyl adipate, and

[0012] - at least one filler chosen from nacres, cellulose particles, silicas hydrophobic and their mixtures.

[0013] During the aging process, various signs appear on the skin, very characteristic of this aging, resulting in particular in a modification of the structure and functions of the skin. The main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, which increase with age.

[0014] It is known to treat these signs of aging using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active ingredients capable of combating the aging, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids and retinoids. These active ingredients act on wrinkles by removing dead skin cells and accelerating the cell renewal process. However, these active ingredients have the disadvantage of only being effective for the treatment of wrinkles after a certain period of application. However, there is an increasing desire to obtain an immediate effect from the active ingredients used, leading to a rapid smoothing of wrinkles and fine lines and the disappearance of signs of fatigue.

[0015] Cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials having good cosmetic properties. In particular, it is necessary for the film-forming deposit to have good hold, in particular that the deposit does not transfer when in contact with fingers or clothing, as well as good hold in contact with water, in particular rain or when showering, or that the deposit is insensitive to perspiration or sebum, as well as to food fats, in particular food fats such as oils.

[0016] It is known to use dispersions of polymer particles in organic media such as hydrocarbon oils. Polymers are used in particular as film-forming agents in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eye shadows or lipsticks.

[0017] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin, and more preferably facial skin, the residual film of which after application to said materials adheres well to the keratin materials, is elastic with the least possible fragmentation, the least possible detachment from the substrate, non-sticky, exhibiting good resistance to external aggressions, and over time, not discoloring, resistant to sweat, sebum, and not very sensitive to oils such as food oils, in particular sebum. In particular, an aim of the invention is to provide a cosmetic composition exhibiting improved resistance (i.e. resistance to friction and the action of bodily fluids), in particular with respect to the deposited fillers.

[0018] The present invention addresses this problem.

[0019] The present invention therefore provides a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising:

[0020] - an oily dispersion comprising:

[0021] i) one or more particles comprising one or more polymers chosen from:

[0022] a) ethylenic homopolymers of (Cl-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cl-C4)alkyl, preferably of (Cl-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate;

[0023] b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (Cl-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cl-C4)alkyl, and b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl; in particular b2) is a (Cl-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly copolymers of (Cl-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid;

[0024] c) ethylenic copolymers of (Cl-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cl-C4)alkyl, preferably of (Cl-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; and

[0025] ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) chosen from:

[0026] d) ethylenic homopolymers of (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl; and

[0027] e) ethylenic copolymers of el) (Cl-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, and of e2) (Cl-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cl-C4)alkyl, preferably copolymers e) are copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl and of (meth)acrylate of (Cl-C4)alkyl;

[0028] iii) one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty bodies,

[0029] - diisopropyl adipate, and

[0030] - at least one filler chosen from nacres, cellulose particles, silicas hydrophobic and their mixtures.

[0031] The composition according to the invention, in the form of an H / W emulsion, makes it possible to permanently fix the charges in the form of deposits. By lasting fixation, we mean at least one day.

[0032] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. By "oil-in-water emulsion" or "O / W emulsion" is meant a composition comprising an oily phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0033] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the keratin materials, preferably the skin. Oily dispersion

[0034] The composition according to the invention comprises a specific oily dispersion.

[0035] The oily dispersion of the composition according to the invention comprises i) one or more particles of at least one polymer surface-stabilized by ii) at least one stabilizing agent, further containing iii) at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance.

[0036] In order to obtain such a dispersion, it is proposed to polymerize particular monomers capable of forming the particles i) in the presence of a polymeric statistical stabilizing agent ii) comprising a majority of a soluble part ii) and a minority of an insoluble part i) in the dispersion medium, i.e. in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii).

[0037] Preferably, the total weight content of polymers in the oily dispersion ranges from 40 to 60% by weight, preferably from 45% to 55% by weight, preferentially from 48% to 52% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily dispersion.

[0038] Preferably, the oily dispersion is present in a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] i) Polymer particles

[0040] Preferably, the particle(s) of the oily dispersion comprise(s) one or more polymer(s) chosen from:

[0041] a) ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate;

[0042] b) ethylenic copolymers of (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, and of ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl, in particular a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly b) is chosen from copolymers of (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid;

[0043] c) ethylenic copolymers of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably among ethylenic copolymers of (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0044] Preferably, the particle(s) i) is (are) made up of an ethylenic polymer derived from homopolymers a) or copolymers b), or c) as defined above.

[0045] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the particles i) is (are) chosen from the ethylenic acrylate homopolymers a) resulting from the polymerization of identical monomer of formula (I):

[0046] [Chem 1]

[0047] H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (I),

[0048] in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R' represents a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, preferably a CrC4 alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate.

[0049] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the particles i) is (are) chosen from the ethylenic acrylate copolymers b) resulting from the polymerization:

[0050] - of at least one monomer of formula (I) as defined above, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; and

[0051] - of a monomer of formula (II)

[0052] [Chem 2]

[0053] H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OH (II)

[0054] in which R is as defined above,

[0055] in particular acrylic acid.

[0056] According to this embodiment, the amount of acrylic acid varies from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of monomers of the particle i) and the polymer of the particles i) is in particular a copolymer resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid with one or more C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers, in particular chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate and ethyl (meth)acrylate.

[0057] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the particles i) is (are) chosen from the ethylenic acrylate copolymers b) resulting from the polymerization:

[0058] - of at least two different monomers of formula (I) as defined previously, preferably C1-C4 alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; and

[0059] - optionally a monomer of formula (II) as defined above, especially acrylic acid.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer of the particles i) is a polymer derived from C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers. The monomers are preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate and more preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate and ethyl (meth)acrylate.

[0061] Advantageously, a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate monomer is used. Preferably, the monomers are chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oily dispersion comprises from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular 4% to 25%, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight of (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl included in d) or e) in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion.

[0063] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the oily dispersion comprises from 60% to 98% by weight, in particular from 75% to 96% of monomers a) to c) relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion.

[0064] Preferably, the monomers capable of forming the particle(s) i) are chosen from monomers insoluble in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) of the oily dispersion. The insoluble monomers preferably represent 100% by weight of the total weight of the monomers forming the polymeric core of the particle(s) i).

[0065] Ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups

[0066] According to one embodiment of the invention, the particle(s) i) may comprise b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, and b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl.

[0067] More particularly, the ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups are chosen from (1), (2), (3), (4) and (5):

[0068] (1) R'(R2)C=C(R3)-Acid with R1, R2 and R3 representing a hydrogen atom or a CO2H, H2PO4, or SO3H group, and Acid representing a carboxy, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid, preferably carboxy group, it being understood that R1, R2 and R3 cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;

[0069] (2) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-N(R')-Alk-Acid with R and R', identical or different represent a hydrogen atom, or a (CrC4)alkyl group; Alk represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from Acid as defined above and hydroxy; and Acid is as defined above, preferably carboxy or sulfonic acid;

[0070] (3) Ar-(Ra)C=C(Rb)-Rc with Ra, Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group, and Ar represents an aryl group, preferably benzyl, optionally substituted by at least one acid group CO2H, H2PO4, or SO3H, preferably substituted by a CO2H, or SO3H group,

[0071] (4) Maleic anhydride of formula (4a) and (4b):

[0072] [Chem.3] O (4a) (4b)

[0073] in which Ra, Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a hydrogen atom. Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (4b) and more preferably is maleic anhydride; and

[0074] (5) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OH with R representing a hydrogen atom, or a group (C1-C4) alkyl such as methyl.

[0075] Preferably, b2) is a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid, more particularly b) is(are) copolymers of (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid.

[0076] More preferably, b2) is chosen from crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamiopropanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoglycolic acid, acrylic acid and their salts, even more preferably b2) represents acrylic acid.

[0077] Preferably, the particles i) are not, or only slightly, crosslinked.

[0078] Preferably, only one type of polymer particles i) is used in the invention.

[0079] The polymer particle(s) i) of the oily dispersion preferably have a average size in number ranging from 5 nm to 600 nm, notably ranging from 10 nm to 500 nm, and better ranging from 20 nm to 400 nm.

[0080] The final particle size is preferably greater than 100 nm. In particular a number average size ranging from 100 nm to 600 nm; more particularly ranging from 150 nm to 500 nm, even more particularly ranging from 160 nm to 400 nm.

[0081] The average particle size is determined by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. A MALVERN brand laser granulometer, NanoZS model (particularly well suited to submicron dispersions) is used to measure the size distribution of these samples. The operating principle of this type of device is based on dynamic light scattering (DLS), also called quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS) or photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS).

[0082] The sample is pipetted into a disposable plastic cuvette (4 transparent sides, 1 cm side and 4 mL capacity) placed in the measuring cell. The data are analyzed on the basis of a cumulant method which leads to a unimodal particle size distribution characterized by an average diameter in intensity d(nm) and a polydispersity factor in sizes Q. The results can also be expressed in the form of statistical data such as D10; D50 (median), D90 and mode.

[0083] Other granulometry techniques make it possible to obtain this type of information, such as analysis of individual particle tracking (Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis, NTA), laser diffraction (LD), acoustic extinction spectroscopy (AES), Doppler velocimetry by spatial filter or image analysis. ii) The stabilizing agent(s)

[0084] The oily dispersion of the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more stabilizing agents ii). Preferably, only one type of stabilizing agent ii) is used in the invention.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from d) ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, in particular ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C18)alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl and more preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-C18)alkyl.

[0086] More particularly, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) is (are) composed of ethylenic polymers chosen from d) ethylenic homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers of formula H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' ' with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a (C9-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C9-Ci8)alkyl. Preferably, R” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl.

[0087] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) is(are) chosen from e) ethylenic copolymers of (Cr C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl and of (Cr C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl. Particularly (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-Ci8)alkyl and of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl. Preferably copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C9-Ci8)alkyl and (meth)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl.

[0088] More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) is (are) chosen from the following ethylenic copolymers e) of formula (III) and (IV):

[0089] [Chem 4]

[0090] H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (III)

[0091] [Chem 5]

[0092] H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” (IV)

[0093] in which

[0094] - R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or group (Cr C4)alkyl such as methyl,

[0095] - R' represents a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, and

[0096] - R” represents a (C9-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C10-C20)alkyl and in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10. Preferably, R” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl, more preferably stearyl.

[0097] Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers derived from monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, and (meth)acrylates. stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, more particularly stearyl (meth)acrylate, even more preferably stearyl methacrylate), and C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate and / or ethyl (meth)acrylate, advantageously methyl acrylate.

[0098] More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers derived from monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl and hexadecyl (meth)acrylates, and C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate or ethyl (meth)acrylate.

[0099] More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers e) derived from monomers chosen from el) isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl and hexadecyl (meth)acrylates, more particularly stearyl (meth)acrylate, even more preferably stearyl methacrylate, and e2) C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate, more particularly methyl acrylate.

[0100] Preferably, the copolymer e) respects the weight ratio e1) / e2 which is greater than 4.5. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.

[0101] In particular, the stabilizing agent ii) is chosen from:

[0102] - homopolymer d) of (meth)acrylate, isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, preferably stearyl, and

[0103] - random copolymers of el) (meth)acrylate of, isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, preferably stearyl, and e2) of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably present in a weight ratio e1) / e2) greater than 4.5. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.

[0104] According to one embodiment, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization el) of a monomer of formula (IV) as defined previously and e2) two different monomers of formula (III) as defined previously.

[0105] Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of el) a monomer of formula (IV) as defined above, in particular chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, preferably stearyl, and e2) of two different monomers of formula (III) as defined above, in particular different C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably methyl and ethyl acrylate.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of el) monomer of formula (IV), in particular (meth)acrylates of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, preferably stearyl on the e2) monomer of formula (III), in particular C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl and / or ethyl (meth)acrylate, i.e. the ratio el) / e2) is greater than 4. Advantageously, said weight ratio el) / e2) ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.

[0107] According to another embodiment, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization e2) of a monomer of formula (III) and el) two different monomers of formula (IV) as defined previously.

[0108] In particular, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from e) ethylenic copolymers of e1) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, and of e2) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, as defined above according to a weight ratio of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC22)alkyl / (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl e1) / e2) greater than 4.

[0109] Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of el) two different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, preferably stearyl and e2) a monomer of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, in particular the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, preferably stearyl / C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate el) / e2) greater than 4.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 5. Advantageously, said weight ratio el) / e2 ranges from 4.5 to 10, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 8, especially 5.5 to 7.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oily dispersion comprises from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular 4% to 25%, in particular from 5.5% to 20% by weight of (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl included in d) or e) in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion.

[0111] According to one embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of two different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, and a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably methyl and ethyl acrylate, in particular the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates / C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate in the oily dispersion is less than 1. In particular, said weight ratio ranges from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 0.08 to 0.2 in the oily dispersion.

[0112] For these statistical copolymers, the defined weight ratio makes it possible to obtain a stable polymer dispersion, in particular after storage for 7 days at room temperature.

[0113] In particular, the weight ratio of ii) stabilizing agent(s) and i) polymer particle(s) is less than 1, relative to the total weight of polymers.

[0114] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are present in a content ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 25% by weight, in particular from 5.5% to 20% by weight of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cg-C22)alkyl included in d) or e) in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said oily dispersion.

[0115] The stabilizing agent(s) ii) as defined above preferably comprise 80% to 100% by weight of monomer soluble in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii), in particular from 85% to 95% by weight of soluble monomer, alone or as a mixture. The stabilizing (co)polymer(s) ii) particularly comprise between 0 and 20% by weight, in particular between 5% and 15% by weight of monomer insoluble in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii), alone or as a mixture.

[0116] Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) and the particle(s) i) have a number-average molecular weight (Mn) of between 1000 and 1,000,000 g / mol, in particular between 5,000 and 500,000 g / mol and even better between 10,000 and 300,000 g / mol.

[0117] iii) The liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies)

[0118] The oily dispersion of the composition according to the invention also comprises iii) one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances.

[0119] The liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii) are in particular chosen from hydrocarbons and C6-Ci6 or with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C6 and C16, and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones.

[0120] It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon group(s), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl group(s) OH (in particular from 1 to 4 hydroxyl group(s). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three unsaturations, preferably 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0121] As regards C6-Ci6 alkanes, the latter are linear or branched, possibly cyclic

[0122] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention comprises(s) at least one linear or branched C8-Ci4, more preferably C9-Ci3, even more preferably C9-Ci2 alkane. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from paraffin oils, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®.

[0123] Among the liquid hydrocarbon fatty bodies iii) having an overall solubility parameter according to the HANSEN solubility space less than or equal to 20 (MPa)1 / 2, mention may be made of oils, which may be chosen from natural or synthetic, hydrocarbon oils, optionally fluorinated, optionally branched, alone or as a mixture.

[0124] According to a very advantageous embodiment, the oily dispersion comprises one or more liquid fatty substances which is (are) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s). The hydrocarbon oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) iii) are linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, which are volatile, in particular chosen from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture of different oils, volatile oils preferably comprising isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0126] According to another particular embodiment, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) iii) are a mixture of a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil, the mixture of which preferably comprises dodecane or isododecane as volatile oil.

[0127] In particular, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) iii) of the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is in particular known under the name INCI C9-12 ALKANE E511470, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthls, This mixture of biodegradable volatile oils, volatile obtained from coconut oil (viscosity is 0.9-1.1 cSt (40 °C) and a flash point at 65 °C).

[0128] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity less than or equal to at 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 6m2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy and / or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and pentaphenyl silicone oils.

[0130] The hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from:

[0131] hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular:

[0132] - branched C8-Ci4 alkanes such as C8-Ci4 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls,

[0133] - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (Cl3) Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF;

[0134] - short chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate;

[0135] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or even wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea oils, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, coconut; shea butter; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

[0136] - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0137] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as that petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ®, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof;

[0138] - esters such as oils of formula R'C(O)-O-R2 in which R1 representsthe remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and Represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is 3 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate;polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, more preferably esters of linear or branched C8-Ci0 fatty acid and linear or branched C12-Ci8 fatty alcohol alone or in mixture with alkanes resulting from the complete hydrogenation / reduction of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, particularly dodecane or mixtures of cococaprylate / caprate with dodecane, we can cite those with the INCI name coconut alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate marketed under the name VEGELIGHT 1212LC® by Grant Industries; ;

[0139] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0140] The oily dispersion, in addition to the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body, may comprise a silicone oil. If silicone oil is present in the oily dispersion, preferably it is present in an amount which does not exceed 10% by weight relative to weight of the oily dispersion, more particularly in an amount less than 5% and more preferably 2%.

[0141] In particular, the oily dispersion comprises at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance iii) chosen from:

[0142] - vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed oil, macadamia, soybean, sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, corn, arara, cottonseed, apricot, avocado, jojoba, olive, coconut or cereal germ oil;

[0143] - linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and in particular isononyl isononanoate;

[0144] and more particularly the esters of formula Rd-C(O)-O-Re in which Rd represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and Re represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palmitates, adipates, myristates and benzoates, in particular diisopropyl adipate and isopropyl myristate; more preferably the esters of formula Rd-C(O)-O-Re in which Rd represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and Re represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0145] - hydrocarbons and in particular linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes, volatile or non-volatile, such as C5-C6o isoparaffins, optionally volatile such as undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, Parleam (hydrogenated polyisobutene), isohexadecane, cyclohexane, or 'ISOPARs', and their mixture; or alkanes resulting from the complete hydrogenation / reduction of mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil such as dodecane, the mixture of C9-Ci2 alkanes, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes, C9-Ci2 in particular comprising dodecane or paraffin oils, vaseline, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene;

[0146] - ethers having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0147] - ketones having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0148] - aliphatic fatty monoalcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the chain hydrocarbon having no substitution group, such as oleyl alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, octyldodecanol and linoleyl alcohol;

[0149] - polyols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol; and

[0150] - their mixtures, such as mixtures of linear or branched fatty acid esters in C8-C10 and C12-C18 fatty alcohols and alkanes from hydrogenation / reduction complete with mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, in particular dodecane, such as mixtures of cococaprylate / caprate and dodecane, we can cite those with the INCI name coconut alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate marketed under the name VEGELIGHT 1212LC® by Grant Industries; or mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, the chains of which comprise 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes, in C9-C12 in particular comprising dodecane, we can cite the mixture of oil with the INCI name C9-12 ALKANE, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthls.

[0151] Preferably, the oily dispersion comprises at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance iii) chosen from:

[0152] - vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular triglycerides;

[0153] - esters of formula Rd-C(O)-O-Re in which Rd represents the residue of an acid higher fatty acid comprising 7 to 19 carbon atoms and Re represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably the esters of formula Rd-C(O)-O-Re in which Rd represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and Re represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0154] - linear or branched C8-C6o alkanes, volatile or non-volatile such as isododecane and alkanes from the complete hydrogenation / reduction of fatty acid mixtures from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, particularly dodecane;

[0155] - cyclic, non-aromatic, C5-Ci2 alkanes; volatile or non-volatile;

[0156] - ethers having 7 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0157] - ketones having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0158] - aliphatic fatty monoalcohols having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the chain hydrocarbon containing no substitution group, and

[0159] - their mixtures.

[0160] Advantageously, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) of the invention are apolar, i.e. formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0161] The liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular volatile ones, more particularly the apolar oils, described above.

[0162] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are chosen from alkanes such as dodecane, isododecane, fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, esters such as isononyl isononanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate and mixtures thereof, more preferably alkanes.

[0163] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are chosen from linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, preferably C8-C14, more preferably C14-C13, even more preferably C9-C12 and even more preferably the alkanes are volatile. More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are volatile and chosen from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture comprising in particular dodecane, isododecane or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0164] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance iii) of the invention is isododecane.

[0165] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance iii) of the invention is different from diisopropyl adipate.

[0166] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) is (are) a mixture of non-volatile oil(s) and volatile oil(s), preferably the mixture comprises isododecane as volatile oil, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, more preferably isododecane. As a mixture of volatile and non-volatile oil, mention may be made of the mixture of isododecane and isononyl isononanoate.

[0167] More preferably, when the fatty substance(s) are a mixture of volatile and non-volatile oil, the quantity of volatile oil is greater than the quantity of non-volatile oil.

[0168] In particular, in the mixture the non-volatile oil is a phenylated silicone oil preferably chosen from pentaphenylated silicone oils. Diisopropyl adipate

[0169] The composition according to the invention comprises diisopropyl adipate.

[0170] Diisopropyl adipate has the following structure:

[0171] [Chem.6] CH, O O CH3

[0172] Preferably, the diisopropyl adipate is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 2.5% by weight, more preferably between 1.8% and 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges

[0173] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from nacres, cellulose particles, hydrophobic silicas and their mixtures.

[0174] Preferably, the filler(s) is / are present in an amount of between 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.5% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 2% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Cellulose particles

[0176] The cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).

[0177] By spherical particles for the purposes of the present invention is meant solid or porous particles having a circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disc having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0178] They preferably have an average size of less than 40 pm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 pm, more preferably from 2 to 10 pm.

[0179] Among the cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by the company Daito under the brand name CELLULOBEADS® such as CELLULOBEADS USF® (D

[50] = 4 pm), CELLULOBEADS D-5® (D

[50] < 10 pm), CELLULOBEADS D-10® (D

[50] < 15 pm), CELLULOBEADS D-30® (D

[50] < 30 pm).

[0180] Preferably, the cellulose particles are present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

[0182] The hydrophobic silica is preferably present in the form of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0183] Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials, the first of which were made by Kristler in 1932.

[0184] They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid. The most commonly used supercritical fluid is supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials from gel, namely for example (i) drying by freeze-drying, consisting of solidifying the gel at low temperature and then sublimating the solvent and (ii) drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are called cryogels and xerogels respectively. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academy Press, 1990.

[0185] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes; siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane; or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0186] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0187] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have an oil absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0188] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have a size, expressed as average diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 pm and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0189] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.

[0190] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have a specific surface area per unit volume (SV) ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

[0191] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm and / or an oil absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0192] According to another preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm, better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0193] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) method described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0194] The absorption capacity measured at the WET POINT, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the uptake of powder oil according to the principle described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

[0195] A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, it is mixed with a spatula and the oil is continued to be added until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then kneaded with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracking or lumps forming. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

[0196] The oil uptake (oil absorption capacity) corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0197] The sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvem. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles" Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0198] In the context of the present invention, the packed density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder and then the cylinder is placed on a STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER. The cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 compactions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the cylinder. The packed density is determined by the mass ratio (m) A / f, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

[0199] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SM xp, where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0200] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name silica silylate).

[0201] The preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation is further described in US 7,470,725.

[0202] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0203] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0204] Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201 and AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

[0205] More particularly, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g, will be used.

[0206] It is of course possible to use a mixture of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

[0207] The compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrophobic silica, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, in an amount of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight, preferentially between 0.2 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] Mother-of-pearl

[0209] Preferably, the nacres are chosen from mica particles coated with titanium dioxide, mica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or tin oxide and synthetic mica particles (fluorophlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide and / or tin oxide. Such nacres may be marketed by Merck under the name 141465 Spectraval Blue, 141466 Spectraval White, 141469 Spectraval Red or 141470 Spectraval Green.

[0210] Preferably, the filler comprises nacres.

[0211] The presence of nacres improves the resistance of the film formed when the composition is deposited on a keratin material.

[0212] Preferably, the mother-of-pearl(s) is / are present in an amount of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 2% and 4% by weight, more preferentially between 2.5% and 3.5% by weight, advantageously between 2.8% and 3.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of nacres, cellulose particles and hydrophobic silicas. Oily phase

[0214] The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0215] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0216] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 - 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0217] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0218] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0219] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0220] The oily phase of the composition may comprise at least one oil. The oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

[0221] A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may further optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid groups, and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups.

[0222] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0223] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0224] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0225] Hydrocarbon oils

[0226] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of:

[0227] (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, almond oil and in particular sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, coconut oil; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

[0228] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0229] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof (mineral oils);

[0230] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is >10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI, by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear di-alkyl tartrates in C14-C15 such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL by the same company; acetates;

[0231] (y) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0232] (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

[0233] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis;

[0234] (viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205 from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.

[0235] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is other than diisopropyl adipate.

[0236] Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile mineral oil and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of plant origin.

[0237] Preferably, the non-volatile plant-based hydrocarbon oil is chosen from glyceride triesters, in particular fatty acid and glycerol triesters whose fatty acids have linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chain lengths ranging from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0238] More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of plant origin is chosen from wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, almond oil and in particular sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, coconut oil; and caprylic / capric acid triglycerides.

[0239] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0240] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007 / 068371 or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. Mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

[0241] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Cl2) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

[0242] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SNELL, can also be used.

[0243] According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0244] Silicone oils

[0245] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0246] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8.106 m2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (V):

[0248] [Chem.7] Eyelash SiU D Si (H R (V)

[0249] where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

[0250] Among the oils of general formula (V), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (V) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

[0251] Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil, preferably a non-volatile PDMS.

[0252] Fluorinated oils

[0253] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0254] The oily phase may also comprise other fatty substances. Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) which may be present in the oily phase may be chosen from:

[0255] - fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0256] - waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

[0257] - pasty compounds, detailed below, such as butters of vegetable origin;

[0258] - fatty alcohols solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol;

[0259] - and mixtures thereof.

[0260] More preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one lipophilic compound chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, silicone oils, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, waxes, pasty compounds, in particular defined below, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] Even more preferably, the oily phase comprises a mixture of a fatty alcohol which is solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and a pasty compound (notably defined below).

[0262] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound (or pasty fatty substance) at 23°C, hydrocarbon or silicone.

[0263] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty body" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0264] In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0265] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”, according to the protocol defined previously.

[0266] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is more particularly equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

[0267] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

[0268] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0269] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0270] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin. The pasty compound(s) may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

[0271] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; - petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum), - polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxypropylenated units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, marketed under the name “Lanolide” by the company VEVY, a mixture where the constituents are in a weight ratio of 46 / 46 / 8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil, esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, with optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, and / or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and diglycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxylated groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as, for example, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company Sasol, vinyl ester homopolymers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (notably sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand name Waxenol 801 by ALZO, phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, in particular fatty acid triglycerides, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, C6-C30, more particularly C8-C18, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); for example with Softisan 100® marketed by the company Sasol, pentaerythritol esters, aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is C4-C3o, preferably C8-C3o. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic, tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecanoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic, octadecanoic, isostearic, nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidic acids, octyldodecanoic, heneicosanoic and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a C2-C40, preferably C10 - C34, and even more preferably C12 - C28 hydroxylated carboxylic acid; the number of hydroxyl groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 6, dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may in particular be chosen from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof, hydrogenated rosin esters (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical), butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, - and mixtures thereof.

[0272] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3%, and even better from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight of pasty fatty substance, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] Preferably, the oily phase content is between 1% and 40% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0274] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.

[0275] The aqueous phase preferably contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

[0276] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

[0277] Preferably, the water content is between 5% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 6% and 70% by weight.

[0278] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0279] According to a preferred embodiment, it is possible to use more particularly ethanol, butylene glycol, glycerin or one of their mixtures.

[0280] Preferably, the content of water-soluble or miscible solvent is between 4% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight.

[0281] According to a particular form of the invention, the aqueous phase content is between 30% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably between 40% and 70% by weight. Other ingredients

[0282] The compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular chosen from thickeners, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, active ingredients, in particular moisturizers, coloring materials other than pearls, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

[0283] As thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TRI® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer); polyacrylamides such as, for example, crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS®” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate);copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and their mixtures.

[0284] The thickeners are preferably present in an amount of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] The surfactants are preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, they are chosen from:

[0286] a) non-ionic surfactants, in particular with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture. Examples include:

[0287] esters and ethers of oses such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols such as Montanov 68 from Seppic;

[0288] oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;

[0289] oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12-C18 alcohol) such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”), the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) sold in particular under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;

[0290] polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) optionally in association with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company Croda under the name Arlacel 165;

[0291] fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, in particular sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, in particular, sold under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA;polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, ;

[0292] fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 sold in particular under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold in particular under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA,

[0293] dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company DOW CORNING,

[0294] dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from FINTEX),

[0295] copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO / OP polycondensates,

[0296] and mixtures thereof.

[0297] b) anionic surfactants such as:

[0298] polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, in particular those derived from amines or alkali salts, and mixtures thereof;

[0299] phosphoric esters and their salts such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N ION from the company CRODA) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate or potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

[0300] sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sul / osuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sul / osuccinate”;

[0301] alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

[0302] isethionates;

[0303] acylglutamates such as “Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures;

[0304] soy derivatives such as potassium soyate;

[0305] citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);

[0306] proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);

[0307] lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

[0308] sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75 / 25 (Crodasin SM from Croda);

[0309] sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

[0310] glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Ajinomoto's Amilite GCS-12).

[0311] Preferably, the surfactant used is a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C.

[0312] The surfactant is preferably present in an amount of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 8% by weight, preferably 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0313] As coloring matter other than the nacres included in the composition, mention may be made of water-soluble dyes, organic pigments, composite pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects or with interference effect, mineral pigments or their mixtures.

[0314] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0315] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following non-limiting examples.

[0316] EXAMPLES

[0317] Example 1: Preparation of the comparative reference compositions CCI* and CC2*

[0318] The comparative reference compositions CCI* and CC2* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the following protocol:

[0319] - the fatty phase is prepared by heating the corresponding ingredients to approximately 60°C,

[0320] - the aqueous phase is prepared by heating the corresponding ingredients until boiling,

[0321] - the two phases are mixed at 60°C using an emulsifier until a compact white solution,

[0322] - addition of additional ingredients to the emulsion obtained.

[0323] The quantities of each ingredient are expressed in mass ratio relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0324] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient (INCI) CCI* (% w / w) (comparative) CC2* (% w / w) (comparative) Fatty phase GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 2.5 2.5 Stearic acid 1.80 1.80 CETYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 1.13 1.15 Hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.61 0.6 OCTYLDODECANOL 2 2 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.07 0.07 Aqueous phase Water QSP 100 QSP 100 GLYCERIN 7 7 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCI NATE 0.1 0.1 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 Preservatives Qs Qs POLOXAMER 338 0.3 0.3 Additional ingredients Xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CRO SSPOLYMER 0.2 0.2 Potassium hydroxide Qs Qs Water 25 25 POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFF IN (and) LAURETH-7 1.5 1.5 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 2 2 CELLULOSE 1.39 1.4 SILICA SILYLATE 0.27 0.27 Pearlescent (Spectraval from Merck) - 3

[0325] Example 2: Preparation of the compositions according to the invention _ C3 and C4

[0326] The compositions of the invention C3 and C4 are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the protocol described in example 1.

[0327] [Tables2] Phase Ingredient (INCI) C3 (% w / w) (inventio n) C4 (% w / w) (inventio n) Fatty phase GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEAR ATE 2.5 2.5 Stearic acid 1.80 1.80 CETYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 1.13 1.13 Hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.61 0.61 OCTYLDODECANOL 2 2 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.07 0.07 Aqueous phase Water QSP 100 QSP 100 GLYCERIN 7 7 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCI NATE 0.1 0.1 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 Preservatives Qs Qs POLOXAMER 338 0.3 0.3 Additional ingredients Xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CRO SSPOLYMER 0.2 0.2 Potassium hydroxide Qs Qs Water 25 25 POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFF IN (and) LAURETH-7 1.5 1.5 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 2 2 CELLULOSE 1.39 1.39 SILICA SILYLATE 0.27 0.27 Pearlescent (Spectraval from Merck) - 3 Oily dispersion of methyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate polymer particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl group stabilizing agent 12.24 12.24 Diisopropyl adipate 1.9 1.9

[0328] The aqueous dispersion of methyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate polymer particles stabilized by a C9-C22 alkyl group stabilizing agent is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0329] General synthesis process:

[0330] In a first step, the random stabilizing polymer is synthesized by reaction between C9-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylate and a small amount of one or two different (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylates, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate such as Methyl Acrylate or Methyl Acrylate + Ethyl Acrylate.

[0331] The reaction is carried out at 90°C for 2 h. In the second step, the core of the particle is obtained after introducing the ethylenically unsaturated monomers (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl and optionally (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid, preferably (meth)acrylic acid such as acrylic acid; into the reaction medium containing the stabilizing polymer. This second step is carried out at 90°C for 5 h.

[0332] Several purification steps by distillation of the solvent (isododecane), also called “strippings”, can be carried out at the end of the synthesis to remove the residual monomers that have not reacted.

[0333] The percentage of active material in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) iii) such as isododecane is ultimately between 40% and 55% such as 50%.

[0334] The polymerization initiator is Trigonox T21S (CAS 3006-82-4).

[0335] Synthesis of the dispersion of compositions C3 and C4

[0336] For these examples, stearyl methacrylate was used in combination with methyl acrylate for the stabilizing arm and methyl acrylate was retained for the core of the particle.

[0337] The oily dispersions are formed as a whole (polymeric particles i) + polymeric stabilizing agent ii)) at 94.5% Methyl Acrylate and 5.5% Stearyl Methacrylate. The synthesis of these oily dispersions was carried out in a 1 liter controlled reactor. The synthesis is carried out in two stages:

[0338] - In a first step, the Stearyl Methacrylate is polymerized in isododecane in the presence of a small amount of Methyl Acrylate and a radical initiator (T21S). In the first step, the mass ratio of Stearyl Methacrylate / Methyl Acrylate is 85 / 15.

[0339] - In the second step, the remainder of the Methyl Acrylate is poured in the presence of Isododecane and radical initiator (T21S).

[0340] After stripping, the polymer is at a dry extract of 50% in Isododecane.

[0341] The ratios used to obtain the stabilizer and the core are summarized in the following Table STEP 1 Ingredients Mass (g) Stearyl methacrylate 13.75 Methyl acrylate 2.34 T21S 0.16 Isododecane 60 Isododecane added between the two steps Isododecane 200 STEP 2 Ingredient Mass (g) Mass added to the beaker (g) Methyl acrylate 234 269.1 T21S 2.21 2.54 Isododecane 234 269.1

[0343] The following table describes the quantities of reagents used for the preparation of the dispersion.

[0344] [Tables4] Composition of stabilizer ii) and core i) Overall polymer composition Monomer % by mass in g monomer % by mass in g Stabilizer ii) Stearyl methacrylate 85 Stearyl methacrylate 5.5 Methyl acrylate 15 Methyl acrylate 94.5 Core i) Methyl acrylate 100

[0345] Protocol:

[0346] Isododecane, Stearyl Methacrylate, Methyl Acrylate and T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank. The medium is heated to 90°C (setpoint on the medium), under argon and with stirring. The dry extract during this first stage is 22%.

[0347] After 2 hours of heating, the NMR indicates a consumption of 99% of the Stearyl Methacrylate (Consumption of Methyl Acrylate: 98%).

[0348] After 2 hours of reaction, Isododecane is introduced. The medium is heated to 90°C.

[0349] Once the medium is at 90°C, Methyl Acrylate, Isododecane and T21S are introduced over 1 hour by pouring. At the end the medium is milky.

[0350] After 7 hours of synthesis, we obtain almost total consumption of Methyl Acrylate and quantitatively of stearyl methacrylate.

[0351] 400 mL of Isododecane is then stripped (the progress of the reaction is monitored by NMR).

[0352] Example 3: Evaluation of compositions CCI*, CC2*, C3 and C4

[0353] The resistance to different chemical and physical actions of the compositions CCI*, CC2*, C3 and C4 was evaluated in vitro according to the following protocol:

[0354] - the compositions CCI* and C3 are deposited on a transparent BYK substrate using to a film puller, forming a wet film 12.5 µm thick. The film is left to dry for approximately 3 hours. The CC2* and C4 compositions are deposited on ERICHSEN contrast cards using a film puller, forming a wet film 100 µm thick. The film is left to dry for approximately 24 hours.

[0355] After the drying step, 2 types of stress are applied to the deposit: - mechanical stress using cotton wool, rubbing the dry deposit 10 times by hand; - a spray of 0.3g of fluid is applied evenly to the deposit. Then, after 5 minutes of drying at room temperature, mechanical stress is applied using a cotton pad, rubbing 10 times by hand.

[0356] Solutions (fluids)

[0357] The fluids are as follows:

[0358] - 79% Vichy water (mineral water), 20% oleic acid and 1% oleic alcohol oxyethylenated (simulates sweat);

[0359] - 28.70% glyceryl triisostearate, 28% oleic acid, 22.90% oleyl erucate stabilized, 13.70% hydrogenated isoparaffin and 6.70% octyldodecanol (simulates 100% sebum secretion); or

[0360] - micellar cleansing water.

[0361] The appearance of the deposits is then evaluated by direct observation or by optical microscopy (xlO).

[0362] The fragmentation ability of the compositions CCI*, CC2*, C3 and C4 was evaluated in vitro according to the following protocol: a deposit of a few μm thick of each composition is formed on FP40 (representative of oily skin) and the substrate is stretched to 50% of its length. The behavior of the deposit is evaluated by direct observation. If there is cracking of the deposit, this indicates a problem of cohesion, therefore of flexibility and elasticity of the composition. If there is detachment of the deposit, this indicates a problem of adhesion of the deposit, therefore of wettability.

[0363] The results of the deposit aspects are summarized below (score from 1 to 3, 3 = a lot of deposit; 1 = little deposit):

[0364] [Tables5] Composition before friction Sweat+friction Sebum+friction Micellar water +friction CCI* 3 1 1.5 1 1.5 C3 3 2.5 2.5 1 3

[0365] Composition C3 resists better than composition CCI*, which shows that the presence of the oily dispersion and diisopropyl adipate improves the resistance of the deposit, and therefore the resistance of the charges.

[0366] [Tableauxô] Composition before friction Sweat+friction Sebum+friction Micellar water +friction CC2* 3 2.5 1 1 1.5 C4 3 3 2.5 3 2.5

[0367] The results show that the friction phenomenon on the 2 dry deposits does not cause very significant or even almost no tearing. This indicates that the presence of the nacres improves the adhesion of the deposit to the substrate, in particular in the case of friction alone. The resistance of the composition C4 according to the invention is improved compared to that of the comparative composition CC2*, which again shows that the presence of the oily dispersion and the diisopropyl adipate improves the resistance of the deposit.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising: - an oily dispersion comprising: i) one or more particles comprising one or more polymer(s) chosen from: a) ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl, preferably of (Cr C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl, and b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl; in particular b2) is a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly copolymers of (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid; c) ethylenic copolymers of (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cr C4)alkyl, preferably of (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate;and ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) chosen from: d) ethylenic homopolymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C22)alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (C9-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylate; and e) ethylenic copolymers of e1) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C9-C22)alkyl, and e2) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably copolymers e) are copolymers of (C9-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylate and of (Cr C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate; iii) one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances, - diisopropyl adipate, and - at least one filler chosen from nacres, cellulose particles, hydrophobic silicas and their mixtures.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymer(s) of the particles i) is (are) chosen from ethylenic acrylate homopolymers a) resulting from the polymerization of identical monomer of formula (I): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (I), in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cr C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R' represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, preferably a Cr C4 alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the stabilizing agent(s) ii) is (are) chosen from e) the ethylenic copolymers of monomers of formula (III) and (IV) following: H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (III) and H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” (IV) in which R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl; R' represents a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl; and R” represents a (C9-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C10-C20)alkyl, and in particular (C2n)alkyl, with n integer = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10; preferably R” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl, more preferably stearyl.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) iii) comprises(s) at least one alkane, linear or branched, in C8-CM, more preferably in C9-Ci3 even more preferably in C9-C[2 more particularly chosen from hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and any of their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total weight content of polymers in active material in the oily dispersion ranges from 40 to 60% by weight, preferably from 45% to 55% by weight, preferentially from 48% to 52% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily dispersion.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily dispersion is present in a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filler comprises nacres, preferably chosen from mica particles covered with titanium dioxide, mica particles covered with titanium dioxide and / or tin oxide and synthetic mica particles (fluorophlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide and / or tin oxide.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the mother-of-pearl(s) is / are present in an amount of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 2% and 4% by weight, more preferentially between 2.5% and 3.5% by weight, advantageously between 2.8% and 3.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diisopropyl adipate is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 3% by weight, preferentially between 1.5% and 2.5% by weight, more preferentially between 1.8% and 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, said oily phase comprising at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase comprises a mixture of a fatty alcohol which is solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and a pasty compound.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase, said aqueous phase comprising water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

13. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims, to the keratin materials, preferably the skin.