Perfumed composition comprising at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound, at least one organic UV filter and at least one perfumed substance
A perfumed composition using sulfur-containing antioxidants and organic UV filters stabilizes olfactory properties and color, addressing the need for environmentally friendly, long-lasting perfumed compositions that avoid BHT.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-13
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for environmentally friendly, stable, and olfactory-permanent perfumed compositions, particularly hydroalcoholic ones, that do not degrade over time due to light and temperature variations, and that maintain their olfactory properties without using controversial compounds like BHT.
A perfumed composition comprising sulfur-containing antioxidant compounds, such as dilauryl thiodipropionate, and organic UV filters, like dibenzoylmethane derivatives, along with perfumer substances, to stabilize the composition and maintain olfactory stability.
The composition achieves excellent olfactory stability and color retention over time, with minimal degradation, lasting up to 5 years, while being environmentally friendly and compatible with current consumer requirements.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Perfumed composition comprising at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound, at least one organic UV filter, and at least one perfume substance. Technical field
[0001] The present invention aims to provide a new perfumed composition, in particular cosmetic, for the field of perfumership of keratinous materials and / or clothing, but also for the care and / or cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials. Previous technique
[0002] In general, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products is becoming an important issue to satisfy a new consumer expectation, in particular that of natural and / or eco-designed products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental impacts.
[0003] Particularly sought are formulations of cosmetic products which make it possible to protect the consumer, in particular by avoiding the use of compounds which may give rise to suspicion on the part of the consumer, for example those suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.
[0004] These environmental issues concern all cosmetic products, particularly perfumed compositions.
[0005] It is known that a perfume is a combination of different fragrant substances that evaporate at different times. Every perfume has what is called a "top note," which is the odor that is first released when the perfume is applied or when the container is opened; a "heart note" or "middle note," which corresponds to the complete perfume (emitted for a few hours after the "top note"); and a "base note," which is the most persistent odor (emitted for several hours after the "heart note"). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the perfume's longevity.
[0006] Human beings have always sought to perfume themselves and the objects around them or the places they are in, both to mask strong and / or unpleasant odors and to give a pleasant smell.
[0007] It is common to incorporate perfume into a number of products or compositions, particularly cosmetic and dermatological products such as eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, aftershave lotions or skincare waters.
[0008] A perfume or perfume composition must be stable, particularly olfactorily, and have a pleasant odor; that is, it must not degrade olfactorily over time. It must resist various aggressions such as light and temperature variations. It is also of great interest to stabilize the color of a perfume or perfume composition.
[0009] In order to ensure the stability of perfumed formulations, and in particular to avoid a change in odor, it is known to incorporate an antioxidant system such as B HT.
[0010] However, BHT is a controversial compound due to its alleged toxicity to humans. Furthermore, it is suspected of being harmful to the environment and of not being biodegradable.
[0011] However, to the inventors' knowledge, there is no known substitute for BHT for hydroalcoholic perfumed products to date.
[0012] The search for alternative antioxidant systems to BHT is therefore a major area of study. Description of the invention
[0013] Thus, there remains a need to research new perfumed compositions, particularly hydroalcoholic ones, which remain stable over time, under the effects of light and temperature.
[0014] In particular, there remains a need for new perfumed compositions, especially hydroalcoholic ones, which have olfactory stability over time and under the effects of light and temperature.
[0015] In particular, there remains a need to have such perfumed cosmetic compositions, the evolution of whose organoleptic properties, namely the smell and / or the color, in particular at least the smell, is controlled over time.
[0016] In particular, there remains a need to have perfumed compositions that allow the olfactory effect to be maintained over time, without loss of strength.
[0017] In particular, there remains a need for additives to stabilize olfactorily most, or even all, olfactory families in perfumery.
[0018] There also remains a need to increase the persistence of such perfume compositions on keratinous materials without the perfume degrading, in particular in contact with the other constituents of the composition.
[0019] There remains a need for olfactorily stable formulations that can meet industrial constraints, and in particular that can be manufactured easily.
[0020] Finally, there also remains a need for perfume compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from a point of view of environmental view.
[0021] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs. Summary of the invention
[0022] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a perfumed composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: a) at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound selected from compounds with the following formulas (I) and / or (II) following, as well as their optical, geometric, salt and solvated isomers such as hydrates: (I) RrS-R2 (II) Ri-SS-R2 formulas (I) and (II) in which: • Ri and R2, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C24)alkyl radical, a linear or branched (C2-Ci8)alkenyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a phenylalkyl radical possessing 7 to 15 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical, said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from among the -OH, -OC(O)-R3, -C(O)-O-R3-C(O)-R3, -OR'3, and -NH2 groups, in particular -OH, -OR'3, and -NH2, and / or said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being possibly interrupted by one or more group(s) chosen from among heteroatoms such as -O-, or groups -N(H)-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -C(O)- and -NR'3-, said phenyl radical and / or said phenylalkyl radical, such as benzyl, possibly being substituted on the phenyl by 1 to 3 linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl radicals, with R3 independently representing a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a linear or branched (C3-C8)alkenyl radical, a (C6-Ci4)aryl radical, or a (C7-Ci5)aralkyl radical, and • R'3 representing a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical; b) at least one organic UV filter selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives; and c) at least one perfumer substance.
[0023] Preferably, in a composition according to the invention, the sulfur antioxidant compound a) is selected from dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, dilauryl dithiodipropionate, distearyl dithiodipropionate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate and mixtures thereof.
[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least dilauryl thiodipropionate in combination with butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0025] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the association of a compound a specific sulfur antioxidant and an organic UV filter derived from dibenzoylmethane, in the presence of perfumer substances, makes it possible to obtain a perfumed cosmetic composition with excellent olfactory stability, similar to or even superior to that obtained by using BHT, and whose odor and olfactory power degrade little over time.
[0026] Indeed, as can be seen from the examples below, the compositions according to the invention are stable, in that the evolution of the odor and its strength remains minimal over time, even under conditions simulating accelerated aging of the composition. It is also noted that the compositions according to the invention are stable in terms of color intensity, that is to say, the color intensity decreases only slightly over time.
[0027] Furthermore, it is observed that the specific association implemented in the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain excellent performance in terms of olfactory stability for many olfactory families in perfumery.
[0028] In particular, the implementation of the sulfur-containing antioxidant compound with an organic UV filter derived from dibenzoylmethane makes it possible to formulate hydroalcoholic perfume compositions with a lifespan of at least 3 years, or even up to 5 years.
[0029] A composition according to the invention is intended in particular to be applied to keratin materials or clothing.
[0030] Thus, the invention relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.
[0031] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular skin, or clothing, comprising at least one step of applying a perfumed composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials and / or clothing.
[0032] It is understood that the cosmetic treatment processes referred to in this application are non-therapeutic.
[0033] A composition according to the invention is intended in particular to be used to perfume keratin materials and / or clothing.
[0034] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of perfumerizing keratinous materials, and in particular skin, and / or clothing, preferably skin, comprising the application on said keratinous materials and / or said clothing of the composition as defined above.
[0035] Advantageously, the composition can be applied by spraying, in particular using a sprayer.
[0036] According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to the use of at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound, in particular as described in the present text, selected from the compounds of the following formulas (I) and / or (II), as well as their optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts and solvates such as hydrates: (I) RrS-R2 (II) R1-SS-R2 formulas (I) and (II) in which: Ri and R2, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C24)alkyl radical, a linear or branched (C2-Ci8)alkenyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a phenylalkyl radical possessing 7 to 15 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical, said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from among the -OH, -OC(O)-R3, -C(O)-O-R3-C(O)-R3, -O-R'3, and -NH2 groups, in particular -OH, -OR'3, and -NH2, and / or said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being possibly interrupted by one or more group(s) chosen from among heteroatoms such as -O-, or groups -N(H)-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -C(O)- or -NR'3-, said phenyl radical and / or said phenylalkyl radical, such as benzyl, possibly being substituted on the phenyl by 1 to 3 linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl radicals, with R3 independently representing a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched (CrCi8)alkyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a linear or branched (C3-C8)alkenyl radical, a (C6-Ci4)aryl radical, or a (C7-Ci5)aralkyl radical, and R'3 representing a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical; as a stabilizer in a perfumed composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular aqueous or hydroalcoholic, further comprising at least one organic UV filter selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular as described in this text, and at least one perfumer substance, in particular as described in this text.
[0037] In particular, the use according to the invention implements the sulfur antioxidant compound, the organic UV filter and the perfumer substance in the form of a composition according to the invention. Definitions
[0038] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:
[0039] By “perfumed composition” or “perfuming composition” or even “perfume” in the sense of the present invention, we mean any composition which leaves a perfume after application to keratinous materials.
[0040] For the purposes of this invention, "perfuming substance" means Any perfume, any fragrant raw material or aroma capable of emitting a pleasant odor, in particular as defined below. The terms "perfuming," "fragrant," or "odoriferous" substances are synonymous for the purposes of this invention.
[0041] For the purposes of this invention, "natural" means a compound or extract obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, possibly via one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification, or filtration, or obtained through a biotechnological process, particularly from cell or microbiological cultures, for example, of fungi or bacteria. "Natural" compounds include compounds that occur in nature and can be reproduced by (semi)chemical synthesis.
[0042] For the purposes of this invention, "of natural origin" means any compound obtained from a natural substance that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that substance. By way of non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, one may mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.
[0043] According to the invention, a compound is considered to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, that is to say when the weight ratio of natural constituents to non-natural constituents that compose it is greater than 1.
[0044] For the purposes of this invention, "keratinous materials" means, in particular, skin, lips, hair, scalp, eyelashes and eyebrows, or nails, especially skin and / or lips, and preferably skin.
[0045] By "colorant" or "coloring material" is meant any compound capable of coloring the perfumed composition, that is to say, which absorbs in the visible spectrum, in particular so as to appear to the human eye in a color such as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue or green.
[0046] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application on keratinous materials, in particular topical application on the skin, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.
[0047] Preferably, this refers to a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate discomfort. unacceptable, i.e. tingling, pulling, redness, likely to deter the user from applying this composition.
[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, a "stabilizer" means a compound capable of stabilizing the perfumed composition comprising it, in particular in terms of preserving its organoleptic properties against external aggressions, in particular light, temperature differences or oxygen, in particular the color and / or odor of said composition.
[0049] A (Cx-Cz)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising x to z carbon atoms. For example, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0050] A (Cx-Cz)alkenyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising x to z carbon atoms and one or more unsaturations, conjugated or not, preferably a single unsaturation. For example, a (C2-Cio)alkenyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and one or more unsaturations.
[0051] A (Cx-Cz)alkoxy group represents an -O-(CX-Cz)alkyl radical, in which the (Cx-Cz)alkyl group is as defined above.
[0052] A (Cx-Cz)cycloalkyl group represents a monocyclic or polycyclic carbocycle (cyclic hydrocarbon group), condensed or not, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic, comprising x to z carbon atoms.
[0053] A (Cx-Cz)aryl group represents a monocyclic or polycyclic carbocycle, condensed or not, comprising x to z carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl, preferably phenyl.
[0054] A (Cx-Cz)aralkyl group represents an alkyl radical substituted by an aryl radical, comprising x to z carbon atoms.
[0055] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".
[0056] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0057] Other features, variations, and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. Detailed description a) Sulfur-containing antioxidant compound
[0058] As mentioned previously, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound selected from the compounds of the following formulas (I) and / or (II), as well as their optical, geometric, salt and solvated isomers such as hydrates: (I) Ri-S-R2 (II) RrS-S-R2 formulas (I) and (II) in which: Ri and R2, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C24)alkyl radical, a linear or branched (C2-Ci8)alkenyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a phenylalkyl radical possessing 7 to 15 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical, said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from the -OH, -OC(O)-R3, -C(O)-O-R3, -C(O)-R3, -OR'3, and -NH2 groups, in particular -OH, -OR'3, and -NH2, and / or said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from heteroatoms such as -O-, or -N(H)- groups. -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -C(O)- or -NR'3-, said phenyl radical and / or said phenylalkyl radical, such as benzyl, being optionally substituted on the phenyl by 1 to 3 linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl radicals, with R3 independently representing a hydrogen atom,a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a linear or branched (C3-C8)alkenyl radical, a (C6-Ci4)aryl radical or a (C7-Ci5)aralkyl radical, and R'3 representing a linear or branched (CrCi8)alkyl radical.
[0059] Preferably Ri and R2 are identical.
[0060] In particular, Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a (Ci-C24)alkyl radical, in particular (C8-C20)alkyl, or even (Ci2-Ci6)alkyl, linear or branched, interrupted by one or more -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O- group(s), and possibly substituted by one or more group(s) chosen from among the -OH, -OC(O)-R3, -C(O)-O-R3, -C(O)-R3, -O-R'3 and -NH2 groups, in particular -OH, -O-R'3 and -NH2, more particularly -OH and -NH2, preferably being unsubstituted.
[0061] In particular, the sulfur-containing antioxidant compound(s) are selected from mercapto(s) (or thio) compounds of formula (I) as defined above. More particularly, mercapto(s) of formula (I) are selected from among which Ri and R2 are identical and represent a group selected from i) R'3-OC(O)-ALK- and ii) R'3-C(O)-O-ALK-, preferably i) R'3-OC(O)-ALK-, with ALK representing a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, such as methylene or ethylene, preferably ethylene, and R'3 being as defined above, in particular R'3 representing a linear or branched (C6-Ci6)alkyl group, more particularly R'3 representing a linear or branched (C8-CM)alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched (Ci0-Ci2)alkyl group, more preferably R'3 is a linear alkyl group such as n-dodecyl (Ci2H25).
[0062] In particular, the sulfur antioxidant compound is selected from thiodipropanoic acid diesters, dithiodipropanoic acid diesters and their mixture.
[0063] Preferably, the perfumed composition comprises at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound a) selected from dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, dilauryl dithiodipropionate, distearyl dithiodipropionate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from dilauryl thiodipropionate, for example that marketed under the trade name Tinogard® DA by BASF, distearyl thiodipropionate, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] According to a preferred embodiment, the perfumed composition comprises at least dilauryl thiodipropionate.
[0065] According to another particular embodiment, said sulfur antioxidant compound a) is chosen from compounds of formula (I) with carboxy acid group(s) in particular those for which Ri and R2 are identical and represent an -ALK-C(O)-OH group with ALK as defined above, in particular methylene or ethylene, preferably ethylene, and their derivatives.
[0066] According to another particular embodiment, said sulfur antioxidant compound a) is selected from thiodipropanoic acid, dithiodipropanoic acid, derivatives of thiodipropanoic acid, derivatives of dithiodipropanoic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Examples of derivatives of thiodipropanoic acid and dithiodipropanoic acid include monoesters, diesters and salts of thiodipropanoic acid and monoesters, diesters and salts of dithiodipropanoic acid.
[0068] The esters of thiodipropanoic acid and the esters of dithiodipropanoic acid may be monoesters or diesters of thiodipropanoic acid and R-OH alcohol(s), or monoesters or diesters of dithiodipropanoic acid and R-OH alcohol(s), with R being a (C4-C20)alkyl radical, in particular (C6-Ci6)alkyl, or even (C8-Ci4)alkyl, linear or branched, preferably linear, preferably linear or branched (Ci0-Ci2)alkyl, more preferably R is a linear alkyl group such as n-dodecyl (Ci2H25). R may also be a (Ci2-Ci8)alkyl radical.
[0069] The composition may include at least 0.01% by weight, in particular at least 0.05% by weight, or even at least 0.08% by weight, or even at least 0.1% by weight of sulfur-containing antioxidant compound(s) a), in particular dilauryl thiodipropionate, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0070] The composition may include at most 4% by weight, in particular at most 1% by weight, or even at most 0.1% by weight of sulfur-containing antioxidant compound(s) a) relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight, in particular of 0.03% to 2% by weight, in particular 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.07% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.08% to 0.1% by weight, of sulfur-containing antioxidant compound(s) a), in particular dilauryl thiodipropionate, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0072] In particular, the sulfur antioxidant compound(s) a) are implemented in a mass ratio of sulfur antioxidant compound(s) a) / perfumer(s) substance(s) c) ranging from 0.05 / 100 to 2 / 100, in particular from 0.1 / 100 to 0.9 / 100, more particularly from 0.3 / 100 to 0.7 / 100.
[0073] In particular, the sulfur antioxidant compound(s) a) and the organic UV filter(s) b) are implemented in a mass ratio of sulfur antioxidant compound(s) a) / organic UV filter(s) b) less than or equal to 2, more particularly less than or equal to 1, preferably less than 1, better from 0.01 to 0.9, more particularly from 0.05 to 0.6, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 such that 0.3. b) Organic UV filter
[0074] As mentioned previously, a perfumed composition according to the invention also includes at least one organic UV filter selected from di-benzoylmethane derivatives.
[0075] For the purposes of this invention, "UV filter" means any compound that filters ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range from 280 nm to 400 nm.
[0076] In particular, dibenzoylmethane derivatives may be compounds corresponding to formula (III) below, as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and their solvates;
[0077] [Chem.l] OO X 1 J. X 3 Y--' 'Y 'ij' (R18^^- I 1 | : Y—(R19^ 4^ R'18 5 5' (III)
[0078] in which: - RI8, whether identical or different, represents a group chosen from among those of formulas (A) to (H) following:
[0079] [Tables 1]
[0080] in which:
[0081] • R4 and R5, identical or different, preferably different, represent a group (C2-Cio)alkyl, in particular (C2-C8)alkyl, more particularly (C2-C6)alkyl, preferably R4 represents an ethyl group, and R5 represents an n-butyl group; • R6, R7, R8, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a phenyl or benzyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or else R6, and R7, are identical and represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R8 different from R6 and R7, represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably branched (C4-C6)alkyl such as 2,2-dimethylpropyl; • R'6, R'7, R'8, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, a phenyl, benzyl, phenoxy, or benzoxy group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group and in particular a methyl group; • R9 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular a methyl group; • R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, and R15, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; • R16, R17, R18, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; • R'18 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • n is equal to 0 or 1, preferably 1;
[0082] • R19, R20, R21, and R22, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, it being understood that two alkoxy radicals cannot be carried by the same carbon atom; • R23, R24, R25, R26, and R27, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, it being understood that at least one of the groups R23, R24, R25, R26, and R27 represents a t-butyl group; preferably R23, R24, R26, and R27 represent a hydrogen atom and R25 represents a t-butyl group; • R28, and R29, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; • R30 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, particularly a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, especially methyl, preferably R20 represents a hydrogen atom; • R31, and R32, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom; • R33, and R34, identical or different, preferably different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl; • the pattern:
[0083] [Chem.2]
[0084] represents the part of the group that is bonded to the rest of the molecule; and
[0085] • the pattern:
[0086] [Chem.3]
[0087] represents a single or double bond, preferably double;
[0088] - or R18, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group linear or branched CrC8 alkyl, preferably branched C4-C8, more particularly RI8 represents a group of formula (B) as defined above, or a linear or branched C6 Ci alkyl group;
[0089] - R' 18 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear (Ci-C6)alkyl group or branched, particularly branched such as i-propyl (isopropyl); - R19, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C6 Ci alkyl group, or a linear or branched C4 Ci alkoxy group, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and i-propyl, a methoxy or ethoxy group; - m represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusively, particularly is worth 1 or 2, preferably 1, more particularly RI8 is in position 4;
[0090] - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive, particularly equal to 1 or 2, preferably 1, more particularly R19 is in position 4'; it being understood that RI8, R' 18 and R19 cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom.
[0091] In particular, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives may be chosen from compounds of formula (III) in which R18 and R19, identical or different, preferably different, represent a group chosen from (A) to (H) as defined above, in particular a linear or branched Ci to Ci6 alkyl group; or a linear or branched Ci to Ci6 alkoxy group, in particular a (CrC8)alkoxy group; or a hydrogen atom; preferably, R19 represents an alkoxy group in Ci-C6, preferably in Ci-C4, such as methoxy, and RI8 represents a group chosen from (A) to (H), and in particular alkyl in linear or branched Ci-C8, preferably in branched C4-C8, and more particularly RI8 represents a group chosen from the groups of formula (B), in particular a tert-butyl group, with in particular R' 18 representing a hydrogen atom, m and p being 1, and RI8 and R19 being in positions 4 and 4' respectively.
[0092] In particular, dibenzoylmethane derivatives may be selected from compounds of formula (III) in which: - RI8 represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C6 to C1 alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; and - R19 represents a linear or branched C6 alkyl group, a linear or branched C4 alkoxy group, in particular a (CrC8)alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and i-propyl, with in particular R' 18 representing a hydrogen atom, m and p equal to 1, and RI8 and R19 being located respectively in positions 4 and 4'.
[0093] In particular, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives can be selected from 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0094] Preferably, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives are chosen from Butyl Me- thoxydibenzoylmethane, also called t-Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane or 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, for example that marketed under the trade name "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann La Roche, and Isopropyl Di-benzoylmethane, also called 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, for example that marketed under the trade name "Eusolex 8020" by Merck, and their mixture.
[0095] Preferably, the perfumed composition comprises at least Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the composition may comprise at least 0.05% by weight, in particular at least 0.1% by weight, more particularly at least 0.2% by weight, or even at least 0.25% by weight of organic UV filter(s) b) selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0097] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% to 0.35% by weight such as 0.3% by weight, of organic UV filter(s) b) selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0098] In particular, the organic UV filter(s) b) are implemented in a mass ratio of organic UV filter(s) b) / perfumer(s) substance(s) c) ranging from 0.1 / 100 to 5 / 100, in particular from 0.5 / 100 to 3 / 100, more particularly from 1 / 100 to 2 / 100. c) Perfume substance(s)
[0099] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one perfumer substance.
[0100] Perfumes are compositions containing, among other things, the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.
[0101] A perfumed composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one perfumer substance selected from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
[0103] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the According to the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant material, either by steam distillation, dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not result in a significant change in composition.
[0104] The choice of method for obtaining essential oils depends primarily on the raw material: its original state and characteristics, its very nature. The yield of "essential oil / plant material" can vary considerably depending on the plant: from 15 ppm to over 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular its viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, and enrichment or depletion of certain constituents.
[0105] Steam distillation is the vaporization of a substance that is only slightly miscible with water in the presence of steam. The raw material is placed in a still with boiling water or steam. The steam carries the essential oil vapor, which is condensed in the condenser and collected in liquid form in a Florentine flask (or essential oil separator) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate remaining after steam distillation, once the essential oil has been separated, is called "aromatic water," "hydrosol," or "floral distillate."
[0106] Dry distillation involves obtaining the essential oil by distilling woods, barks, or roots, without the addition of water or steam, in a closed container designed so that the liquid is collected at the bottom. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of extraction.
[0107] The cold-pressing method is applicable only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) by mechanical processes at ambient temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the peels are shredded and the contents of the ruptured secretory sacs are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists of applying an abrasive action to the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After the removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations actually allow for the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.
[0108] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are lipophilic and soluble in common organic solvents, steam-distillable, and very slightly soluble in water.
[0109] Among the essential oils usable according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Annonaceae, for example ylang-ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, rock samphire, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodiaceae; Cistaceae, for example rockrose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae, for example wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae, for example geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae, for example St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae;Lamiaceae, for example thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjoram, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm; Lauraceae, for example ravensara, bay leaf, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp or hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, for example roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, for example all citrus fruits; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, for example sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, for example benzoin; Thymelaceae, for example agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, for example valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, for example lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, for example galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
[0110] We can also mention essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, calamus, ginger), woods (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).
[0111] Examples of perfumer substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, the 2-methyl-3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enylcarboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde,4-(4-methyl 1-3-pentenyl 1)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyltetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-1, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolone, hawthorn, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl oxide, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, indane musks, tetraline musks, isochromane musks, macrocyclic ketones, macrolactone musks, aliphatic musks,Ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
[0112] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise one or more natural or naturally derived perfumed substances.
[0113] A perfumed composition according to the invention may in particular have a content of natural or naturally derived perfumer(s) greater than the content of synthetically derived perfumer(s).
[0114] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfumer substances is used which together produce a pleasant note for the user.
[0115] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the perfumed composition comprises at least one mixture of perfumed substances, in particular at least two distinct perfumed substances, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least three distinct perfumed substances.
[0116] Perfume substances will preferably be chosen in such a way that they produce notes (top, middle and base) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes in particular pink and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fougère, leathery, and musk.
[0117] For obvious reasons, the quantity of perfumer substance(s) present in a composition according to the invention is likely to vary significantly with regard to the odor or odor intensity sought by its presence.
[0118] By way of illustration, a perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight of perfumer substance(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0119] Perfume substances can be introduced into a perfumed composition according to the invention in the form of a perfume concentrate.
[0120] The perfume concentrate can be a concrete or an absolute, preferably an absolute.
[0121] Thus, a perfumed composition according to the invention particularly comprises at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight of perfume concentrate, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional UV filters
[0122] A perfumed composition according to the invention may also include one or more additional UV filter(s), distinct from the organic UV filters b) selected from the dibenzoylmethane derivatives defined above. The additional UV filter(s) may, in particular, be selected from UVA and / or UVB filters.
[0123] UV filters can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV filters, hydrophobic and / or mineral UV filters.
[0124] Preferably, they are chosen from among hydrophilic or hydrophobic organic UV filters.
[0125] By "UV-B filter" is meant any compound that filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range from 280 nm to 320 nm.
[0126] The term "UV-A filter" refers to any compound that filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range from 320 nm to 400 nm. Short-wave UV-A filters (absorbing rays with a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm) and long-wave UV-A filters (absorbing rays with a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm) can be distinguished.
[0127] The term “hydrophilic UV filter” means any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being com completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0128] By "hydrophobic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase. Hydrophobic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters
[0129] The UV filters can be selected from hydrophobic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters chosen from: i) para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, ii) cinnamic derivatives, iii) salicylic derivatives, iv) 3,3-diphenylacrylate and 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, v) benzophenone derivatives, vi) benzylidene camphor derivatives, vii) phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, viii) triazine derivatives, ix) anthranilic derivatives, x) imidazoline derivatives, xi) benzalmalonate derivatives, xii) merocyanine derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] More specifically, the hydrophobic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters can be selected from:
[0131] i) Derivatives or esters of para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular of formula (IV) as well as their optical and geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0132] [Chem.4] (IV)
[0133] in which: - R20 and R21, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl and isobutyl; - R22 represents a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H) as defined above, or a (Ci-C2o)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl or a formula group (A) as defined above.
[0134] In particular, the derivatives or esters of para-aminobenzoic acid, (PABA) may be selected from the (Ci-C6)alkyl)PABA of formula (IV) in which: - R20 and R21, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl and isobutyl; - R22 represents a (Ci-C2o)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl.
[0135] In particular, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives or esters are selected from Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, for example that marketed under the name "Escalol 507" by ISP, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] More particularly, the derivatives or esters of para-aminobenzoic acid, (PABA) may be selected from Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, or mixtures thereof.
[0137] ii) cinnamyl derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (V), as well as their optical and geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0138] [Chem.5] (V)
[0139] in which: - R20 represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl; and - R22 represents a chosen group of formula groups (A) to (H) as defined previously, or a (Ci-C20)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, i-propyl, butyl and i-amyl.
[0140] In particular, the cinnamyl derivatives or esters may be selected from compounds of formula (V) in which: - R20 represents a hydrogen atom, or an (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (CrC4)alkyl, such as methyl; - R22 represents a (Ci-C20)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-Cio)alkyl, more particularly (Ci-C6)alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, i-propyl, butyl and i-amyl.
[0141] In particular, the cinnamic derivatives or esters may be selected from Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, for example that marketed under the trade name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann La Roche, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate, for example that marketed under the trade name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer, Cinoxate, Dii-sopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate and mixtures thereof.
[0142] More particularly, the cinnamic derivatives or esters may be selected from Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate, Cinoxate, Dü-sopropyl Methylcinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
[0143] This may include Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate.
[0144] iii) salicylic derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (VI) and their Optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates:
[0145] [Chem.6] (VI)
[0146] in which: - RI3 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, benzyl or alkyl in C4-C2o, branched, in particular in C6-Ci2, more preferably in C8-Ci0 branched, more particularly R13 represents a group of formula (A) or benzyl; - R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C2o alkyl radical, possibly forming rings, in particular represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, preferably a hydrogen atom;
[0147] In particular, the salicylic derivatives or esters may be selected from compounds of formula (VI) in which: - RI3 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously or alkyl in C4-C20, branched, in particular in C6-Ci2, more preferably in C8-Cio branched, more particularly R13 represents an alkyl radical in C6 to Ci6 substituted by at least one methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and / or ter-butyl radical; - R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched, or, where applicable, cyclic CrC2O alkyl radical; in particular, it represents a group chosen from among the groups of formulas (A) to (H), and preferably is a hydrogen atom.
[0148] Salicylic derivatives or esters may in particular be selected from Homosalate, for example that marketed under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, for example that marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer, Benzyl salicylate, Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate, in particular sold under the name "Dipsal" by Scher, TEA Salicylate, in particular sold under the name "NEO Heliopan TS" by Symrise, and mixtures thereof.
[0149] Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, in particular corresponding to the commercial product Neo Heliopan OS.
[0150] iv) 3,3-diphenylacrylate derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (VII) as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates, and 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives or diesters, in particular of formula (VII') as well as their optical and geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0151] [Chem.7] (VII)
[0152] [Chem. 8] RIB (SEEN')
[0153] in which: -R15 and R15', identical or different, represent a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H) as defined above, or a linear or branched C6-Ci alkyl group, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl or ter-butyl, preferably ethyl, hexyl or a formula group (A) as defined above; - R16, R'16, R17 and R'17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched CrCi2 alkyl group, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci6 alkoxy radical; preferably R16, R'16, R17 and R'17 represent an atom hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as methyl.
[0154] In particular, the derivatives or esters of 3,3-diphenylacrylate may be selected from compounds of formula (VII) in which: - RI5 represents a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group, preferably linear such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl; more preferably ethyl; and - R16 and R17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in linear or branched Ci-Cio, or an alkoxy radical in linear or branched Ci-Cio, preferably representing a hydrogen atom.
[0155] In particular, the derivatives or esters of 3,3-diphenylacrylate may be selected from the derivatives of 3,3-diphenyl-2-cyanoacrylate, in particular of formula (VII) as well as their optical or geometric isomers, and their solvates, wherein: - RI5 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, in particular a linear or branched C6 to Ci6 alkyl group, substituted by at least one methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl or ter-butyl radical; - R16 and R17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group, or a linear or branched Ci-Ci6 alkoxy radical, preferably R16 and R17 represent a hydrogen atom.
[0156] Preferably, R15 represents a C6 to C8 alkyl radical substituted by at least one ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, more particularly, RI5 represents a C6 alkyl radical substituted by at least one ethyl, propyl, or isopropyl radical, even more preferably R15 represents a group of formula (A).
[0157] In particular, this refers to Octocrylene, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul N539" by BASF, Etocrylene, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF, and the following filters (1), (2) and (3) and their mixtures:
[0158] [Chem.9] (1)
[0159] [Chem. 10]
[0160] (2) [Chem. 11]
[0161]
[0162]
[0163]
[0164] (3) Etocrylene is particularly suitable for the invention, such as that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF. (v) Benzophenone derivatives or esters, in particular of formula (VIII), as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates: [Chem. 12] (VIII) in which: - G1 represents a hydrogen atom, an R1R2N- group, or Rl-O-, with RI and R2, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in the form of Ci-Cio, linear or branched, preferably in linear CrC8, or else RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom which bears them form a heterocycle with 5 or 6 links, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated such as pyrrolidino, piperazino, piperidino, or morpholino; - G2 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl, or a -C(O)-O-R3 group with R3 representing a linear or branched C1-C12 carbon chain, possibly forming one or more rings, in particular a (C4-Cio)alkyl group, preferably a (C6-Cio)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as n-butyl, preferably a -C(O)-O-R3 group, in par- tarticulier G2 is positioned ortho to the carbonyl; - G1 can be in position 3 or 5 of the carbonyl (in meta position relative to the hydroxy or para of the carbonyl).
[0165] Preferably, G1 represents an R1R2N- group and the radicals RI and R2 are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, pentyl optionally substituted at position 2 or 3 by a methyl or ethyl group.
[0166] Preferably, RI and R2 are chosen from ethyl, propyl, and butyl.
[0167] When RI and R2 together form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached a he- heterocycle, in particular a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl. Preferably, RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom bearing them form a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group.
[0168] This refers in particular to Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF, Benzophenone-4, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF, Benzophenone-8, for example that marketed under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0169] In particular, benzophenone derivatives or esters may be selected from compounds of formula (VIII'):
[0170] [Chem. 13] (VIII')
[0171] in which: - RI and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C8 alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably Ci-C6, or else RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom on which they are based form a heterocycle with 5 or 6 links, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, such as pyrrolidino, piperazino, piperidino, or morpholino; - R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C12 carbon chain, possibly forming one or more rings, in particular a (C4-Ci0)alkyl group, preferably a (C6-Ci0)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as n-butyl; and - NR1R2 can be in position 3 or 5 of the phenolic ring (in meta position relative to the hydroxy).
[0172] Preferably, the radicals RI and R2 are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C4 alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, pentyl optionally substituted at position 2 or 3 by a methyl or ethyl group.
[0173] Preferably, RI and R2 are chosen from an ethyl, propyl and butyl group.
[0174] When RI and R2 together form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached a he- heterocycle, in particular a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl. Preferably, RI and R2 together with the nitrogen atom bearing them form a morpholino, pyrrolidino or piperidino group.
[0175] Benzophenone derivatives may in particular be selected from Benzophenone-1, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; Benzophenone-2, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; Benzophenone-6, in particular sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; Benzophenone-8, in particular sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-10; Benzophenone-11; Benzophenone-12.
[0176] Benzophenone derivatives are preferably selected from n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, for example sold under the trade name "Uvinul A+" by BASF.
[0177] vi) Benzylidene camphor derivatives, in particular of formula (IX) and their optical and geometric isomers and their solvates:
[0178] [Chem. 14]
[0179] (IX) in which: - R16, R17, R18, and n are such as defined in the preceding formula (E); - R23 represents a hydrogen atom or an (CrC4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R24 represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, or R27-C(O)-X-(CH2)P- with R27 representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl, (C2-C4)alkenyl group, X representing an oxygen or NH atom, p being an integer between 0 and 4, in particular 1, particularly R24 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl such as methyl, preferably R24 is positioned para to the styryl group; and - R25 and R26, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy, (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, preferably a hydrogen atom; preferably R25 and R26 are positioned in meta of the styryl group;
[0180] In particular, this filter is selected from 3-Benzylidene camphor, for example that marketed under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, for example that marketed under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene camphor, for example that manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex, and mixtures thereof.
[0181] vii) phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, in particular selected from those of formula (X) as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates:
[0182] [Chem. 15] (X)
[0183] in which: - q is equal to 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4, preferably q is zero; - R31, when q is 1, 2, 3 or 4, represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, linear or branched, or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkoxy group; - R32 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino or a (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, linear or branched, or linear or branched, (Ci-Cio)alkoxy linear or branched, preferably hydroxy, more particularly R32 is positioned on the phenyl group ortho to the benzotriazolyl group; - R33 represents a hydrogen atom, a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H) as defined previously, a group chosen from: i) -(ALK)t-(A), ii) -(ALK)t-(B), iii) -(ALK)t-(C), iv) -(ALK)t-(D), v) -(ALK)t-(E), vi) -(ALK)t-(F) or -(ALK)t-(F'), vii) -(ALK)t-(G), and viii) -(ALK)t-(H), with t being 0 or 1, ALK representing a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably branched, more preferably a linear or branched (CrC4)alkylene group, preferably branched, and (A) to (H) representing a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H) as defined above, a group (J) following:
[0184] [Chem. 16] R'32 (J)
[0185] in which ALK is as defined above, preferably a methylene group, and R'31, R'32, R'34 and q' are as defined respectively for R31, R32, R34, and q, preferably R'31 = R31, R'32 = R32, R'34 = R34 and q' = q; - preferably R33 is positioned on the phenyl group meta to the benzo-triazolyl group; - R34 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably branched, more preferably chosen from groups (A) and (B) as defined above, even more preferably (B) such as 'Bu-CH2 -C(CH3)2-,
[0186] Phenyl benzotriazole derivatives may be selected from 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-phenol derivatives, in particular selected from those of formula (XI), as well as their optical isomers, and their solvates:
[0187] [Chem. 17] (XI)
[0188] in which: - R4 represents a linear or branched CrCi2 carbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, possibly forming one or more rings, saturated or unsaturated, preferably R4 represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl such as methyl; more preferably the radical R4 is located on the phenyl para of the hydroxy group; - R5 represents a carbon chain, linear or branched in Ci-C6, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, R5 more particularly represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular in (Ci-C4)alkyl and preferably methyl; - R6 represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, preferably R6 represents RR'R”Si- with R, R”, R'”, identical or different represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, or tri(Ci-C4)alkylsiloxy group, preferably R6 represents a group chosen from the groups of formula (C) or (D), more preferably R6 is of formula (XII):
[0189] [Chem. 18] SiMe3 (XII)
[0190] with R6 representing a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl in particular such as methyl.
[0191] Preferably, R4, R5 and R6 represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl.
[0192] In particular, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives may be selected from si-latrizole, for example Mexoryl XL, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, for example that marketed under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, for example that marketed, in solid form, under the trade name “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical or, in micronized form, in aqueous dispersion under the trade name “Tinosorb M” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4,6-bis(l-methyl-l-phenylethyl)phenol, for example that marketed under the name HMPB2 or Eversorb 89.
[0193] It may preferably be silatrizole.
[0194] viii) triazine derivatives, in particular selected from those of formulas (XIII) or (XIII'), as well as their optical isomers, tautomers and their solvates:
[0195] [Chem. 19] (XIII)
[0196] [Chem.20] (XIII')
[0197] in which: - Xa, Xb, and Xc, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a bond, an oxygen atom, -N(Ra)- with Ra representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Xa, Xb, and Xc, are identical and represent a bond or -N(H)-, more preferably -N(H)-; - R35, R37, and R39, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy group, linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl, linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkoxy, or a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, preferably a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group; in particular R35, R37, and R39 are positioned ortho to the phenyl groups linked to the triazine group; - G represents a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously, preferably a group of formula (A) as defined previously; - R36, R38, and R40, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from a) (Ci-C6)alkyl linear or branched, b) (Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl, c) (Ci-C6)alkoxy linear or branched such as methoxy, d) (Ci-C6)alkoxycarbonyl, e) (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino, f) (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)aminocarbonyl, in particular such as '-butylaminocarbonyl, g) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)carbonylamino, h) -C(R41)=C[C(O)-O-R42]2, i) -(X')t-(A), j) -(X')t-(B), k) -(X')t-(C), l) -(X')t-(D), m) -(X')t-(E), n) -(X')t-(F) or -(X')t-(F'), o) -(X')t-(G), p) -(X')t-(H), q) 2-(benzo)oxazolyl optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, linear or branched, preferably branched, r) 2-(benzo)imidazolyl optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, linear or branched, preferably branched, s) 2-(benzo)triazolyl optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, linear or branched, preferably branched;with (A) to (H) being a group of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously; R41 representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, R42 representing a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably branched such as t-butyl, t being 0 or 1, preferably 1, X' representing a group;
[0198]
[0199] ALK as defined above, or Y; with Y representing an oxygen atom, -N(H)-, -C(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(H)-, -N(H)-C(O)-, -OC(O)-N(H)- or -N(H)-C(O)-O-, or -N(H)-C(O)-N(H)- preferably Y represents an ester; more particularly the R36 groups represent a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, linear or branched, such as methoxy, or -C(O)-O-(A), R38, and R40, identical or different, preferably identical, represent -O-(A) or -C(O)-O-(A) with (A) being a group of formula (A) as defined above; in particular, R36, R38, and R40 are positioned para to phenyl groups linked to the triazine group; it being understood that at least two groups R35 to R40 are different from a hydrogen atom. In particular, triazine derivatives may be chosen from among the derivatives of 2,4-bis(hydroxyphen-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, preferably those of formula (XIV) as well as their optical isomers and their solvates: [Chem.21]
[0200]
[0201] (XIV) in which: - R7 and R8, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group selected from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined previously or a C4-C2O alkyl group, branched, in particular at C6-Ci2, more preferably at C8-CiO, branched possibly forming one or more rings, preferably R7 and R8 represent a group selected from the groups of formula (A) as defined previously; and - R9 represents a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkoxy such as methoxy; In particular, triazine derivatives can also be chosen from 2,4,6-tri(anilino)-1,3,5-triazine, especially of formula (XV) as well as their optical isomers, and their solvates:
[0202] [Chem.22] (XV)
[0203] in which: - X1, X2, and X3, identical or different, preferably identical, represent an oxygen atom or an NR' 12 group, preferably X1, X2, and X3 represent an oxygen atom; - RIO, R11 and R12, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group chosen from the groups of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above, or a C4-C20 alkyl, branched, in particular at C6-C12, more preferably at C8-C1 branched; and - R' 12 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C7-C2o alkyl radical, or a group chosen from the formula groups (A) to (H) as defined previously, or a branched C4-C20 alkyl, in particular C6-Ci2, more preferably branched C8-Ci0, in particular R' 12, represents a hydrogen atom or a formula group (A); with preferably RIO, RI 1 and R12, representing a group of formula (A), particularly triazine derivatives of formula (XV) are selected from tris(2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate (also called Ethylhexyl triazone, octyl triazone or marketed as Uvinul T150), tris(2-ethyl-2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, and the tris(2-ethyloctyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate and mixtures thereof.
[0204] In particular, triazine derivatives may be selected from Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, for example that marketed under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvinul T150" by BASF, the Die- thylhexyl Butamido Triazone, for example that marketed under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3 V, 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino diisobutyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-6-(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-iminol, 3,5-triazine, for example that marketed under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V, tris(2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, tris(2-ethyl-2-propylhexyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate, and the tris(2-ethyloctyl)-4,4',4”-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate and mixtures thereof.
[0205] Preferably, triazine derivatives can be selected from the 2,2'-[6-(4-Methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]bis {5-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]phenol], also known as Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Bemotrizinol, or Tinosorb S, Anisotriazine, and mixtures thereof. The filter marketed under the name Tinosorb S is particularly suitable.
[0206] Preferably, the triazine derivatives may be selected from tris(2-ethylhexyl)-4,4',4"-(l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tribenzoate (Uvinul T150) and / or the 4- [ [4,6-bis [[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl] amino] -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] amino]benz oate of 2-ethylhexyl.
[0207] Preferably, this is 2,4,6-tri(anilino)-l,3,5-triazine, in particular marketed under the name ethylhexyl triazone or Uvinul T150.
[0208] ix) anthranilic derivatives, in particular of formula (XVI), as well as their optical and geometric isomers, and their solvates:
[0209] [Chem.23] (XVI)
[0210] in which: - Y is such as defined previously in particular -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, preferably Y represents -C(O)-O-; - R43 to R46, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R47 represents a group of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above, preferably formulas (F) or (F'), more preferably (F') such as menthyl; and in particular menthyl anthranilate, sold notably under the trade name "NEO Heliopan MA" by Symrise.
[0211] x) imidazoline derivatives, in particular those of formula (XVII) as well as their optical and geometric isomers, their tautomers and their solvates:
[0212] [Chem.24] (XVII)
[0213] in which: - R47, R48, and R49, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, linear or branched, in particular R47 represents a hydrogen atom, and R48, and R49 represent a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; - R5o represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably hydrogen; - R51 represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably hydrogen -ALK'-(Y)t-(A), -ALK'-(Y)t-(B), -ALK'-(Y)t-(C), -ALK'-(Y)t-(D), -ALK'-(Y)t-(E), -ALK'-(Y)t-(F) or -ALK'-(Y)t-(F'), -ALK'-(Y)t-(G), and -ALK'-(Y)t-(H) with t being 0 or 1, preferably 1, (A) to (H) representing a group of formulas (A) to (H) as defined above with Y as defined above, preferably Y represents an ester, and more particularly -C(O)-O-(A); and in particular Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
[0214] xi) Benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular benzalmalonate polyorganosiloxanes, in particular Polysilicone-15, notably sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc., and Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0215] xii) merocyanine derivatives, in particular octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate. Hydrophilic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters
[0216] Among the hydrophilic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters, hydrophilic UV-A filters may be cited in particular, such as bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323, and US 2 463 264, and more particularly the compound Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazo tetra-sulfonate, notably sold under the trade name "NEO Heliopan AP" by Symrise.
[0217] We can also mention Terephtalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (sold for example under the trade name Mexoryl SX).
[0218] Among the hydrophilic organic UV-B and / or UV-A filters, hydrophilic UV-B filters such as can be specifically mentioned:
[0219] - the following p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives: PABA; Glyceryl PABA; and PEG-25 PABA, in particular sold under the trade name "Uvinul P25" by BASF; - Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid, in particular sold under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by MERCK; - ferulic acid; - salicylic acid; - DEA methoxycinnamate; - benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, in particular sold under the name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; - camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, in particular sold under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex. Mineral UV filters
[0220] The composition according to the invention may also incorporate mineral UV filters, which are generally colorless pigments. The pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0221] For the purposes of this invention, "pigments" means white or colored solid particles, mineral or organic.
[0222] By "non-coloured" we mean that to the naked eye the pigment does not absorb in the visible spectrum and appears white or colourless.
[0223] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as those described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0224] As is known, silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
[0225] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes required for their preparation, in particular, alkyl silanes.
[0226] The silicones used for coating pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogenosiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes, and polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes.
[0227] Of course, metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0228] Coated pigments are, for example, coated titanium oxides: - silica, in particular the product "Sunveil" from the company Ikeda and the product "Eusolex T-Avo" from the company Merck; - of silica and iron oxide, in particular the product "Sunveil F" from the company Ikeda, - of silica and alumina, in particular the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" from the company Tayca, "Tioveil" from the company Tioxide, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from the company Rhodia, - alumina, in particular the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from the Ishihara company, and "UVT 14 / 4" from the Kemira company, - of alumina and aluminium stearate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01" from the company Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W", "Solaveil CT 100" and "Solaveil CT 200" from the company Uniqema, - of silica, alumina and alginic acid, in particular the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca, - of alumina and aluminum laurate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from the company Tayca, - iron oxide and iron stearate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from the company Tayca, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, in particular the product "BR351" from the company Tayca, - of silica and alumina and treated with silicone, in particular the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" from the company Tayca, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, in particular the product "STT-30-DS" from the company Titan Kogyo, - of silica and treated with silicone, in particular the product "UV-Titan X 195" from the company Kemira, or the product SMT-100 WRS from the company Tayca, - of alumina and treated with silicone, in particular the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" from the Ishihara company, or "UV Titan M 262" from the Kemira company, - triethanolamine, in particular the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo, - stearic acid, in particular the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" from Ishihara, - sodium hexametaphosphate, in particular the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from the company Tayca.
[0229] Other titanium oxide pigments treated with silicone are, for example, TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with polydimethyl-siloxane such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by Cardre, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "Micro Titanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
[0230] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by TAYCA under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600 B", by Degussa under the name "P 25", by Wackher under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW", by Miyoshi Kasei under the name "UFTR", by Tomen under the name "ITS" and by Tioxide under the name "Tioveil AQ".
[0231] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; - those marketed under the name "Nanox" by the company Elementis; - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0232] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0233] - those marketed under the name "Z-Cote HP1" by the company Sunsmart (ZnO coated with dimethicone), - those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane), - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by the company Nanophase Technologies (in dispersion at 40% in Finsolv TN, benzoate of alcohols in Ci2-Ci5), - those marketed under the name "Daitopersion ZN-30" and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane), - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane), - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane), - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone), - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane), - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in benzoate of alcohols in Ci2-Ci5 with poly-condensate of hydroxystearic acid).
[0234] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide".
[0235] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the Arnaud company under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ", "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by the Mitsubishi company under the name "TY-220".
[0236] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345", "Nanogard FE 45 BL", or by the company BASF under the name "Transparent iron oxide".
[0237] We may also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the Ikeda company under the name mination “Sunveil A”, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product “M 261” sold by the company Kemira or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product “M 211” sold by the company Kemira.
[0238] Pigments can be introduced as such or in the form of pigment paste, i.e. mixed with a dispersant, as described for example in document GB 2206339.
[0239] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not use mineral UV filters.
[0240] According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of the mineral UV filter(s) can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, it ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further incorporates one or more additional organic UV filters, preferably hydrophobic.
[0242] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention implements one or more auxiliary UV filters chosen from among hydrophobic organic UV-A filters, hydrophobic organic UV-B filters, and / or mixed hydrophobic organic UV-A and UV-B filters.
[0243] More preferably, the composition according to the invention further implements one or more additional UV filters chosen from among para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, 3,3-diphenylacrylate and 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzal-malonate derivatives and mixtures thereof.
[0244] According to one embodiment, the quantity of the additional organic UV filter(s) present in a composition according to the invention can range from 0.05% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0245] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight of additional UV filters, or even is devoid of additional UV filters. Additional antioxidant agents
[0246] A perfumed composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more antioxidant agent(s) distinct from the compounds of formula (I) or (II).
[0247] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention may also include one or more additional antioxidant agent(s), distinct from the sulfur antioxidant compounds a) defined above and the vitamins defined below.
[0248] The antioxidant agent may be of the primary or secondary type, and may be selected from among the bulky phenols, aromatic secondary amines, organophosphorus compounds, sulfur compounds, lactones, acrylated bisphenols; and mixtures thereof.
[0249] Among the antioxidants particularly suitable for the invention, the following may be mentioned in particular: butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tert-butylhydroquinone (TBHQ), 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, octadecyl-3,5,di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxycinnamate, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate such as that marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard® TT, tetrakis-methylene-3-(3,5-di-tertbutyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate methane, 2,5-di-tertbutyl hydroquinone, the 2,2-methyl-bis-(4-methyl-6-tert-butyl phenol), 2,2-methylene-bis-(4-ethyl-6-tert-butyl phenol), 4,4-butylidene-bis(6-tert-butyl-m-cresol), N,N-hexamethylene bis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamamide), pentaerythritol tetrakis (3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate), particularly that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox® 1010, octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox® 1076; 1,3,5-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6(1H,3H,5H)trione, in particular that marketed by Mayzo of Norcross, GA under the name BNX® 3114; di(stearyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite; tris(2,4-di-tert-butyl phenyl)phosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos® 168; bis(2,4-di-tert-butyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos® 126; bis(2,4-bis)[2-phenylpropan-2-yl]phenyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, triphenyl phosphite, (2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl)pentaerythritol diphosphite, particularly that marketed by GE Specialty Chemicals under the name UL Tranox® 626, tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite, particularly that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos® TNPP, the 1:1 mixture of N,N-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamamide) and tris(2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl phosphate, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox® B 1171; tetrakis (2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl)phosphite, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irgafos® P-EPQ; 2,4-bis(octylthiomethyl)o-cresol, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox® 1520; 4,6-bis(dodecylthiomethyl)o-cresol, in particular that marketed by CIBA under the name Irganox® 1726.
[0250] The additional antioxidant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.
[0251] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, or even less than 0.01% by weight of additional antioxidant agent(s). For example, a perfumed composition according to the invention is free of additional antioxidant agent(s).
[0252] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also include butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) as an antioxidant.
[0253] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is preferably free from compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, that is to say, it comprises less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, or even is devoid of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, in particular butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).
[0254] Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT). Additional stabilizers
[0255] A perfumed composition according to the invention may also include one or more colour stabilizing agent(s) distinct from said sulfur antioxidant compound a).
[0256] As color stabilizers for perfume compositions, examples include Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate as sold under the name "Tinoguard Q" by Ciba-Geigy; Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate as sold under the name "Tinoguard HS" by Ciba-Geigy; Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-Cresol as sold under the name "Tinoguard TL" by Ciba-Geigy; Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate (and) Buteth-3 (and) Tributyl Citrate as sold under the trade name "Cibafast H Liquid" by Ciba-Geigy; and Bumetrizole as sold under the name "Tinoguard AS" by Ciba-Geigy.
[0257] These stabilizers may be present in a content ranging from 0.005% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0258] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.05% by weight of color stabilizing agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even devoid of color stabilizing agent. Vitamins
[0259] A perfumed composition according to the invention may also include vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide), nicotinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives (vitamin C), retinol (vitamin A).
[0260] In particular, vitamins or their derivatives may be selected from tocopherol and its derivatives. Tocopherol may be found in one of its various forms, including alpha, beta, gamma, and delta. Tocopherol derivatives include tocotrienols and esters.
[0261] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one or more antioxidant agent(s) selected from tocopherol and tocopherol esters, in particular tocopherol acetate, more preferably from alpha-tocopherol and alpha-tocopherol acetate.
[0262] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.001% by weight, in particular from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight, or even from 0.03% to 0.05% by weight, of tocopherol and / or its derivatives, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition. Solvent
[0263] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition, namely comprising at least water as solvent(s), an alcoholic composition, namely comprising at least one alcohol as solvent(s), or a hydroalcoholic composition, namely comprising a mixture of water and alcohol as solvent(s).
[0264] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% by weight, in particular from 60% to 95% by weight, more particularly from 70% to 90% by weight, of one or more solvent(s) selected from water, an alcohol and their mixture, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0265] Preferably, a perfumed composition according to the invention is a hydroalcoholic composition.
[0266] A perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of water and alcohol in an alcohol / water mass ratio ranging from 50 / 50 to 99.5 / 0.5, preferably ranging from 70 / 30 to 99 / 1, in particular ranging from 80 / 20 to 98 / 2, notably ranging from 85 / 15 to 95 / 5.
[0267] As mentioned previously, a perfumed composition according to the invention can be an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic composition.
[0268] Alcohols particularly suitable for the invention are chosen from i) monoalcohols, having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, and ii) glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
[0269] Preferably, the alcohols are of natural origin. Bioethanol is a particular example.
[0270] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises, as solvent(s), water, (bio)ethanol, pentylene glycol, or a mixture of at least two of these compounds.
[0271] As mentioned previously, a perfumed composition according to the invention can be an aqueous composition, namely comprising water as solvent(s), or a hydroalcoholic composition, namely comprising a mixture of water and alcohol as solvents.
[0272] A perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent distinct from the alcohols defined above.
[0273] In the present invention, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at a temperature of 20°C to 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0274] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes may be mentioned in particular.
[0275] Alternatively, a perfumed composition according to the invention may be anhydrous, namely that it may comprise less than 2% by weight of water, in particular less than 1% by weight of water, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water, or even be totally free of water.
[0276] A perfumed composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol. For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule having at least three free hydroxyl (-OH) groups. Preferably, a polyol according to this invention is in liquid form at room temperature. A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having at least three -OH groups on the alkyl chain, in particular at least four -OH groups.
[0277] Polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0278] Preferably, the polyol can be chosen for example from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, glycerol, polyglycerols, in particular glycerol oligomers, preferably diglycerol, and mixtures thereof. Additives
[0279] A perfumed composition according to the invention may further comprise any additive commonly used in the field of perfumes, such as emollients or softeners, in particular sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, sweeteners, moisturizing agents, in particular glycerin, soothing agents, in particular α-bisabolol, allantoin and aloe vera; essential fatty acids, propellants, peptizers, fillers, co-solvents, surfactants, antifoaming agents, polar additives, fillers, film-forming polymers, gelling agents, thickening agents, pH adjusters (acids or bases), neutralizing agents, chelating agents or preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0280] It is part of the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties of the latter are not affected.
[0281] When present in the composition of the invention, these additives may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. d) Coloring agents
[0282] A perfumed composition according to the invention may also include at least one coloring material.
[0283] Generally speaking, a "colouring material" means any compound capable of colouring a composition, that is to say, which absorbs in the visible spectrum, in particular so as to appear to the human eye in a colour such as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue or green.
[0284] This (or these) colouring material(s) is (or are) preferably chosen from colouring particulate materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0285] For the purposes of this invention, "liposoluble colorant" means any colorant, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat.
[0286] Colouring particulate materials may be coloured pigments (i.e. different from UV filter pigments), mother-of-pearls and / or particles with metallic reflections.
[0287] The pigments are naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases commonly used in cosmetics. They can alternatively be rendered insoluble by formulation in the form of a lacquer, if necessary.
[0288] In particular, the pigment is poorly or not at all soluble in hydroalcoholic media.
[0289] Pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Examples of mineral pigments include metallic oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, and violet. manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
[0290] In particular, the colouring material may be chosen from organic pigments and synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, preferably from synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes.
[0291] Among the organic pigments of the invention, we can mention carbon black, D & C type pigments, in particular azo, anthraquinone, nitrate and / or tria-rylmethane, and lakes based on carmine, cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, preferably D&C type pigments.
[0292] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material(s) of the invention is / are chosen from water-soluble dyes. Water-soluble dyes may be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or neutral, more particularly anionic (i.e. commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity with alkaline substances).
[0293] By "anionic dyes" is meant any dye having in its structure at least one CO2R' or SO3R' substituent with R' designating a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
[0294] Anionic dyes may be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic tria-rylmethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.
[0295] As anionic dyes suitable for the invention, the following dyes may be cited from those of formulas (G), (G'), (J), (J'), (K), (K'), (L), and (M), and their mixtures, in particular those of formula (G), (J) and (L) and their mixtures:
[0296] a) the anionic azo dyes of formulas (G) and (G') below:
[0297] [Chem.25] (G)
[0298] [Chem.26] tG')
[0299] Formulas in which R7, R8, R9, R10, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'10, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a group selected from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - R”-S(O)2-, with R” representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di)(alkyl)amino, aryl(alkyl)amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group; - R'”-S(O)2-X'- with R”' representing an alkyl group, possibly substituted aryl, X' being as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above; - heteroaryl possibly substituted; preferably a benzo-thiazolyl group; - cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl; - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an aryl group possibly substituted; preferably a phenyl possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups, (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino; - or two contiguous groups R7 with R8 or R8 with R9 or R9 with R10 together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R'8 or R'8 with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from nitro; nitroso; (O)2S(O-)-, M+; hydroxy; mercapto; (di)(alkyl)amino; R°-C(X)-X'-; R°-X'-C(X)-; R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; Ar-N=N- and aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted; with M+, R°, X, X', X” and Ar as defined above; and in which: - W represents a sigma-o bond, an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a radical
[0300]
[0301]
[0302] divalent -NR- with R as defined above, or methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or Ra and Rb together with the carbon atom bearing them form a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl; provided that the formulas (G) and (G') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical (O)CO-, M+ on one of the rings A, A', B, B' or C; preferably sodium sulfonate. A titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (G) on peut citer: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment Red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Orange 4, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Food Yellow 3 ou sunset yellow ; et à titre d’exemple de colorants de formule (G’) on peut citer : Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38. b) les colorants anthraquinones de formules (J) et (J’) ci-dessous : [Chem.27]
[0303]
[0304] Formulas (J) and (J') in which R22, R23, R24, R2s, R26 and R27, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group selected from: - alkyl; - hydroxy, mercapto; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - aryloxy or arylthio possibly substituted, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; - aryl(alkyl)amino possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; and in which: Z' represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 where R28 and R29, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl; - aryl, possibly substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group; - cycloakyl; in particular cyclohexyl; Z, represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined previously; it being understood that the formulas (J) and (J') comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0305] Examples of colorants of formula (J) include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, EXT violet No. 2; and examples of colorants of formula (J') include: Acid Black 48.
[0306] d) the nitrate dyes of formulas (K) and (K') below:
[0307] [Chem.29]
[0309] wherein R30, R3[ and R32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a group selected from: - alkyl; - alkoxy possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - polyhalogenoalkyl; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X' and X” as defined previously; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; - heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R 30, R3i and R32 represent a hydrogen atom; and in which: - Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - W is as defined previously; W particularly represents a grouping -NH-; - ALK represents a linear or branched divalent alkylene group, in Ci-C6; particularly ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group; - n is equal to 1 or 2; - p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive; - q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive; - u is equal to 0 or 1; - when n equals 1, J represents a nitro, or nitroso, group; particularly nitro; - when n equals 2, J represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or a divalent radical —S(O)m— with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a radical -SO2-; - M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion;
[0310] [Chem.31]
[0311] present or absent represents a benzo group possibly substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above; provided that the formulas (K) and (K') include at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate.
[0312] Examples of colorants of formula (K) include: Acid Brown 13, Acid Orange 3; examples of colorants of formula (K') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2”-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethanesulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7.
[0313] e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (L) below:
[0314] [Chem.32]
[0315] Formula (L) in which: - R33, R34, R35 and R36, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, possibly substituted aryl and possibly substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group possibly substituted by an (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously; - R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R^, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - (di)(alkyl)amino; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; - or two contiguous groups R^ with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R^ together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from nitro; nitroso; (O)2S(O-)-, M+; hydroxy; mercapto; (di)(alkyl)amino; R°-C(X)-X'-; R°-X'-C(X)-; R°-X'-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X', X” as defined previously; particularly R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or (O)2S(O-)-, M+; and when R41 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O-)- group; it being understood that at least one of the cycles G, H, I or I' comprises at least one radical sulfonate (O)2S(O-)- or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulfonate.
[0316] Examples of colorants of formula (L) include: Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 50.
[0317] f) Xanthene-derived dyes of formula (M) below:
[0318] [Chem.33]
[0319] Formula (M) wherein R45, R46, R47 and R48, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom and R49, R50, R51 and R52, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen, or a group chosen from: - alkyl; - alkoxy, alkylthio; - hydroxy, mercapto; - nitro, nitroso; - (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion; - (O)CO—, M+ with M+ as defined previously; In particular, R49, R50, R5i and R52 represent a hydrogen atom or halogen; and in which: - G represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or an NRe group with Re re exhibiting hydrogen atony or an alkyl group; particularly G represents an oxygen atom; - L represents an O-, M+ alkoxide; an S-, M+ thioalkoxide or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium; - The ' represents an oxygen atom, sulfur or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, aryl possibly substituted; The ' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined previously; - Q and Q', whether identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom; - M+ is as defined previously.
[0320] As suitable coloring materials for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 and their mixtures may be cited in particular, more particularly selected from FDC Red 4, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1 and their mixtures.
[0321] Among the natural direct colorants usable according to the invention as a coloring material, we can mention lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carmine & carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, betanin (beetroot), metallic chlorophyllin in particular copper, methylene blue, caramel, sandalwood, gardenia, spirulina and riboflavin.
[0322] For the purposes of this invention, “mother-of-pearl” means colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shells or synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
[0323] The nacres can be chosen from among the nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0324] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.
[0325] By "metallic reflection particles", in the context of the present invention, we mean any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface condition enables it to reflect incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner.
[0326] The metallic-reflecting particles usable in the invention may in particular be selected from particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, particles comprising a substrate, organic or mineral, single-material or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one metallic-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and mixtures of said particles. These particles are different from metal ions.
[0327] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
[0328] By "metallic derivatives" we mean compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
[0329] Preferably, the colouring materials, if present, are natural or of natural origin.
[0330] These colouring materials may be present in a content ranging from 0.00005% to 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.0001% to 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition
[0331] As mentioned previously, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound as defined previously, b) at least one organic UV filter selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives as defined previously, and c) at least one perfumer substance as described previously.
[0332] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises: a') from 0.05% to 0.5%, in particular from 0.08% to 0.1%, of one or more sulfur-containing antioxidant compound(s) selected from dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, dilauryl dithiodipropionate, distearyl dithiodi-propionate and mixtures thereof, in particular dilauryl thiodipropionate, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition; b') from 0.1% to 1%, in particular from 0.25% to 0.35%, of one or more organic UV filter(s) selected from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Isopropyl Diben-zoylmethane, in particular Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, in relation to the total weight of said perfumed composition; (c) from 1% to 35%, in particular from 10% to 25%, of one or more perfumer substance(s) in relation to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
[0333] A perfumed composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, namely cosmetically acceptable for application to keratinous materials, particularly human ones, without altering them.
[0334] It can be presented in all the galenic forms classically used for topical application and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution or suspension or an oily solution or a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type, an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fat phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream type (O / W) or (W / O), or an aqueous or anhydrous gel, an ointment, or any other cosmetic form. Preparation of the composition
[0335] A composition according to the invention can be obtained by any method known to a person skilled in the art for the formulation of colored perfumed compositions.
[0336] In particular, a perfumed composition according to the invention can be obtained by simple mixing, at room temperature, namely at a temperature ranging from 20 °C to 25 °C, of the compounds constituting the composition. Destination of the composition
[0337] A composition according to the invention is a perfumed composition, generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0338] Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition.
[0339] The invention applies not only to perfumed products but also to care products, cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, including the scalp, and of the lips, containing an odorous substance.
[0340] A composition according to the invention can thus constitute a fragrance, skincare, or cosmetic treatment composition for keratinous materials, and in particular be presented in the form of eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, aftershave lotion, skincare water, silicone or hydrosilicone-based skincare oil, or even eau de Cologne. It can also be presented in the form of a perfumed bi-phase lotion (eau de toilette phase / hydrocarbon oil and / or silicone oil phase), body lotion, or shampoo. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention can also be an elixir or a concrete.
[0341] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, eau de Cologne or eau de soin, and even more preferably it is an eau de parfum.
[0342] A composition according to the invention may also constitute all forms of com- cosmetic positions of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.
[0343] The compositions according to the invention can be packaged in the form of bottles.
[0344] A perfumed composition according to the invention can be diffused by means of different systems such as sprays, aerosols, piezoelectric devices.
[0345] They can also be applied in the form of fine particles by means of mechanical or propellant gas pressurization devices. Devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include pump bottles or "sprays," aerosol containers comprising a propellant, and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in particular in US patents 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
[0346] Aerosol compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane.
[0347] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is diffused in the form of a spray.
[0348] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages. Examples Measurement and Evaluation Methods
[0349] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by observation, visually, of the evolution of the color over time, and by olfactory evaluation of the evolution of the notes of the perfumed composition.
[0350] In particular, the compositions are poured into 50 mL borosilicate glass flasks and then observed after storage for 2 months, under atmospheric pressure and under different conditions: a) In the refrigerator, at a temperature of 4°C; b) At room temperature, i.e. between 20 °C and 25 °C, away from light; c) In an oven, at a temperature of 37 °C; d) In an oven, at a temperature of 45 °C;
[0351] e) In natural light (north-facing, Paris location) and at room temperature, i.e. between 20 °C and 25 °C, then: el) 16 hours in an ATLAS brand SunTest CPS+ aging device, equipped with a Xenon lamp, a radiant light source whose spectral distribution is close to that of the sun, delivering an energy of 765 W / m2, simulating exposure to neon lights in a shop; and e.2) 2 weeks in an oven at a temperature of 55 °C, simulating an extreme condition for the perfume.
[0352] Storing the compositions for 2 months at 45 °C simulates accelerated aging of the product corresponding to 3 years of shelf life. Raw materials
[0353] The compositions of the following examples employ different perfumes, named A to I, belonging to different olfactory families, as detailed below the tables. Example 1 Preparation of perfume compositions
[0354] Different perfumed compositions A, B and C, according to the invention, and perfumed compositions a, b and c, outside the invention, are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 2 below.
[0355] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the perfumed composition. Essai A Estai B Essai C Psrauu(*)Ç^as ®CÎ : Psdwsi A Farfiiss B ^srSas B Psrftæi C FRAGRANCE) 12 12 1S 173 lïOiiiiiiiiii Alcool aoa dénaturé 7S,1 iliiiiiii 79 0 liifiiiiii 7SA (liiiiiii!: Bistyl Me&axydibear»^ mefetse 03 8.3 03 iiiiiiii E^yStesyt salKjdste - -■ Përèaentfaïtyl Teîra-di-t-butyl Hydroxydiydro-cuàswste nXÜGKllïDJT (11(((((((((((((((((( Düssryl âdo&prsp»^^ ai :3-:))))))))))))))))))))))3:) 03 01. (:7((::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Cstatt» (3.0.1 %daas alrçolâ ÎS'X**) 03 iiiiiiiii -■ (((?(((((((((((((((((((((((((( OW (10( ... 0..070 (111(((((((((((((( (*) A csaclHæé par : Head : Hespèridé (bergamot, smteæe, eiirotî} (effect œfegùeï Aïomatkjsæ (sage, basil. jæmsræ, fcsvædei;, Enàté (coiscoE&re, sæefesi); calorie Bc^s feedre Musqué (g-fedide) ; Bæfitm B characterized by: Breasts. Hesperides (bergamot). Spicy (goat:), Strawberry green: (apple) ; Ccest, Flœal i"' oeUtet, &essaa, wieite).. Àromatiqi^ Fond, Muscgré (gsfaxoltô^ (mrassæ dectes, pate&sd 3»»-e ■- tctal) : Farûm C is characterized by :: Head : Fssiiê Green (possme, pear). Green (gaze®), Hespéridé (bergamot) : Heart : Floral (ssgaalia, rose, jasmine, Seur ÆcfrsHgœ). U» (eari grey) ; Foad : Gsumiaad (varsile. carameljjyrmae, popesm). Woody (patchouli, oedre) Musqué (gatecoüde). (**) Test A and Test a: mixture of BLUE 1 and RED 33: Test C and Temsin c: EXT. VIOLET 2 (***) Essay c and Topic c: meeting of YELLOW S and RED 33
[0357] Tests A and B are, on average, across all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, more stable in odor and color, respectively, than comparative tests a and b, which are devoid of Butyl Methoxydiben- zoylmethane and Dilauryl thiodipropionate.
[0358] Moreover, composition C according to the invention is at least as stable in odor and color, or even more stable in odor and color, than composition c comprising ethylhexyl salicylate in combination with Butyl Methoxydiben-zoylmethane. Example 2 Preparation of perfume compositions
[0359] Different perfumed compositions D, E, F and G, according to the invention, and perfumed compositions d, e, f and g, outside the invention, are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 3 below.
[0360] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the perfumed composition. Essay D Summer And Essay F (11^^ Summer G Ttosae PaiiaES»4 s xNcsa INCI : n ; Family and Family : Parfera Friends and Friends 14(((1(1.(17). illiii) 20 (iiiiiiii MEIHLT .V2TEL-O TLaTE - - : “ 3.0045 l®!i((((l AieocS asi jasfes'è ->7 A < t Bllll < ï tOSSSSSSt 05 •((((((((ihi) M(ê(il Æ'vdlbeSETfl-iïss&ase r?; 0.2 : ~ (11(((((((((() - fise&ylassso fepàcsy-èeuzayl hesiyi bensœste ■- : " 1111(:11111111111( Tristtefcaaefeva^^ ef-nixcl 11G i_\te D^ïij^ x iL.àE^x *- ÏDDG xRE D 0.1 §A 0,1 01 s. iiiiiiiii vd< a S ' 'idœ S a "C "D.<UM 0,044 (111(((((((( 0,18 (1(1((((((((((( " 1111:11:11111111111: E > -T- ic~a ee iLi i> t k'sn 'tesassït « >i* Ne'» D'LT : ^A~ER A AV tps.p ÎM qs$ ISO ((1((()1((1( qsp ISO ty .p ISS 1111(1) ' P fifisu 3 v rooted by ; T-*- Yes^pr^se Tss^ncte. coffee. ^isé: «if), To know is®s&) ; 0®sr :. Ssskæ, feet^x, Ter p? K^et^ssi) ; Fsad : Boisé, JWîré; .FatSsïï And characterized by : Tea : Hesperides. srssr.e, ws&ràt^, Green (gaStwssX Strawberry ^is», pcassae) ; Home : Fairgrounds designed. stse> Fruity (pineapple., &sse) ; Fk^ : Gotsæassd {vsm&e, estas, sarassei.}, Ssk4 {este}. Masqaé (gah&dide) ; Pss&æF can be calculated by : Head ; Hespensfe ibeissniote, d&æa, pænpkmoweX ÀæsEaâqse (DHM. iavwdé, &y$a, jkmsssb^, his szctæ^e (resrte isdè} : C <e® Ehrsi 'heâKsie; géssEsas; : Fs®d : Bote teste, ea&æerassK Kfessjæ {gteso&fe) ; P&✠& characterized by: Tte :: Citrus tessis» dosce, ssaadsïias, tegasasi^.S: Cass: : Eteai: (jassrÉa, Sets dsæsseri, Fîtes (pair. cassis): Background: Gatansmd (yassiSè. sa® îsteteoBstetete, pstcteaEi, Mtss^ué {gtextete). i Es as F and T easus. f: EXT. PURPLE 2; Este G Tassas g: head of YELLQW 6 and RED 4 t *** ? Ess: D and Tésassn d: rsâssgs of GREEN 5 and RED 3 3 ; Em E and Tèsssm e ; ssêlasge of LELLOIV 5, RED 4 and RED 33: Test F and Têæsss f: wêhsge of ORANGE 4, RED 4 s ELLæ 1
[0362] Composition D according to the invention is at least as olfactorily stable, on average, over all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, or even more olfactorily stable, than composition d comprising ethylhexyl salicylate in combination with Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0363] Composition E according to the invention is at least as olfactorily stable, on average, over all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, or even more olfactorily stable, than composition e comprising ethylhexyl salicylate and Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate in combination with Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0364] As for composition F according to the invention, it is at least as olfactorily stable, on average, over all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, or even more olfactorily stable, than composition f comprising ethylhexyl salicylate, Tris(tetramethylhydroxy-piperidinol)citrate and Die-thylamino hydroxy-benzoyl hexyl benzoate in combination with Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0365] Test G is, on average, across all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, more olfactorily stable than comparative test g, which is free of Dilauryl thiodipropionate. Example 3 Preparation of perfume compositions
[0366] Different perfumed compositions H and H', according to the invention, and perfumed compositions h and h', outside the invention, are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 4 below.
[0367] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the perfumed composition. Test H Control h Test Hr Control h' ParfrŒffi *) (INCI Name: FRAGRANCE) Par hay H Parfiun H PaifomH Psïfim H 23 7¾ 23 23 Undenatured alcohol 69 69 69 69 Alpha-Tocopheiol - - 0.036 9.036 ButylMetlioxydibenzoj'lmethaué PARSOL 1PS9 9.3 - 0.3 - Beazotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol T1NOGUARDTL - 0.49 - 0.49 Tris(tetiaaie«hylhydrosy-pipdidmol} citrate TINOGARI> O - 0.03 0.03 Dilauryl tfoodipropionate TINOGARDGA 0.1 - 0.1 - EXT. VIOLET 2 to 0.1 % in alcohol 70 * 0.375 0.17 - 0.375 0.375 RED 33 to 0.3% in alcohol 70 4 O.«45i 0.045 0.045 0.045 Deionized nuclear-biologically pure water (INCI Name: WATER / AQUA) qs,p 100 q.sp 100 q.&p 190 q,sp 100 (*) ParfciH H characterized by ; Top notes: Citrus (sweet orange), Spicy (pink peppercorn, hibiscus), Green fruity (pear); Heart notes: Fruity (cherry, blackberry, currants): Rosy floral (peony), Violet floral (rose), Jasmine (jasmine); Base notes: Balsamic (vanilla, baobab, toaka bean), Woody (sausage).
[0369] Tests H and H' are, on average, across all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, more olfactorily stable, respectively, than comparative tests h and h' comprising Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol and Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)citrate in combination with Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0370] Moreover, composition H' according to the invention, further comprising alpha-tocopherol, is more olfactorily stable, on average, over all the tests described in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, than composition H according to the invention devoid of alpha-tocopherol. Example 4 Preparation of perfume compositions
[0371] Different perfumed compositions 1 to 6, according to the invention, and perfumed compositions 7 and 8, outside the invention, are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 5 below.
[0372] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the perfumed composition. Test 1 Test 2 Test 3 Test 4 Test 5 Test 6 Control 7 Control 8 Among» I(4) (NCI Name: FRAGRANCE) 35.00 25.00 25.00 25.00 25.00 25.00 25.00 25.0-0 METHYL ANTHRANILATE 0.0049 0.0049 0.0049 0.0049 0.0049 0.0049 0.0049 0.0949 Undenatured alcohol 68.72 68.72 68.72 68.72 68.72 68.72 68.72 6S 72 Butylmethyloxyphene-methane R4HSUL 1 0.250 0.500 0.125 0.375 0.250 0.250 Ddawyî thiodipiopioMte HNOGARDm 9.025 0.050 0.050 0.075 0.075 0.100 0.050 RED 4 at 0.3% te alcohol '0 -7 0.123 0.123 0.123 0.123 0.123 0.123 0.123 0.123 RED 33 at 0.3% in alcohol 70 “ 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.005 Deionized water microbio-loaKâisïiienl piopre (INC name!: WATER / AQUA) qs 100 qs 100 qs BXi qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 1® q .s. p 190 (*) Partum I characterized by: Top: Fruity (blackcurrant, pear). Citrus (bergamot, orange); Heart: Powdery (ai, ioiioiKs), White flowers (jasmine, star apple); Base: Gourniafid (paiuiue, vanilla, tonka bean), Woody (paicteuii).
[0374] As detailed in the Measurement and Evaluation Methods section, the compositions of tests 1 to 8 are poured into 50 mL borosilicate glass boil-in flasks and then evaluated after storage for 2 months, under atmospheric pressure and under condition e).
[0375] The olfactory evaluation was carried out by a panel of 7 evaluators by comparing the compositions to a composition stored at 4°C. The odor was scored from 0 to 10, with a score of 10 being given for an odor identical to that of the composition stored at 4°C. Thus, a higher score is associated with better olfactory stability. The averages obtained are reported in Table 6.
[0376] [Tableauxô] Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3 .£$331 Trial 5 Trial 6 Control 7 Control S Cxleur (average results) 5.0 5.6 5.6 6.3 El 4.6 3.1
[0377] The olfactory stability of compositions 1 to 6 according to the invention is improved compared to control tests 7 and 8 respectively devoid of dilauryl thiodipropionate and of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. In addition, excellent olfactory stability is obtained for the compositions according to the invention, in particular for the compositions of tests 5 and 6.
Claims
Demands
1. A perfumed composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: a) at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound selected from the compounds of the following formulas (I) and / or (II), together with their optical, geometric, salt and solvated isomers such as hydrates: (I) RrS-R2 (II) R1-SS-R2 formulas (I) and (II) wherein: Ri and R2, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C24)alkyl radical, a linear or branched (C2-Ci8)alkenyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a phenylalkyl radical possessing 7 to 15 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical, said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from among the -OH, -OC(O)-R3, -C(O)-O-R3, -C(O)-R3, -OR'3, and -NH2 groups, in particular -OH, -OR'3, and -NH2, and / or said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from among heteroatoms such as -O-, or -N(H)- groups. -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -C(O)- and -NR'3-, said phenyl radical and / or said phenylalkyl radical, such as benzyl, being optionally substituted on the phenyl by 1 to 3 linear or branched (CrC io)alkyl radicals, with R3 independently representing a hydrogen atom,a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a linear or branched (C3-C8)alkenyl radical, a (C6-Ci4)aryl radical, or a (C7-Ci5)aralkyl radical, and, R'3 representing a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical; b) at least one organic UV filter selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives; and (c) at least one perfumer substance, in which said at least one perfumer substance is present in a content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said perfumed composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, said sulfur antioxidant compound a) being selected from thiodipropanoic acid, dithiodipropanoic acid, derivatives of thiodipropanoic acid, derivatives of dithiodipropanoic acid and mixtures thereof, in particular from thiodipropanoic acid diesters, dithiodipropanoic acid diesters and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising at least one sulfur antioxidant compound a) selected from dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, dilauryl dithiodipropionate, distearyl dithiodipropionate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate and mixtures thereof, and more preferably comprising at least dilauryl thiodipropionate.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.03% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.07% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 0.1% by weight, of sulfur-containing antioxidant compound(s) a), in particular dilauryl thiodipropionate, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one organic UV filter b) selected from Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane also called t-Butyl Methoxydiben-zoylmethane, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof, preferably comprising at least Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% to 0.35% by weight, of organic UV filter(s) b) selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
7. Perfumed composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said perfumer substance(s) c) are selected from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight. weight, more preferably 10% to 25% by weight, of perfume substance(s) c) in relation to the total weight of said perfumed composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more antioxidant agent(s) distinct from the compounds of formula (I) or (II), in particular selected from tocopherol and tocopherol esters, in particular tocopherol acetate.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic, in particular hydroalcoholic.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 50% by weight, in particular from 60% to 95% by weight, more particularly from 70% to 90% by weight, of one or more solvent(s) selected from water, an alcohol and mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of said perfume composition.
12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one coloring matter, in particular selected from organic pigments, especially selected from carbon black, D&C type pigments, and carmine, cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum lakes, preferably D&C type pigments, and synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants, more preferably selected from synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants, in particular from FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably selected from FDC Red 4, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 and their blends.
13. A cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular skin, or clothing, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials and / or clothing, a perfumed composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.
14. Use of at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound selected from the following compounds of formulas (I) and / or (II), and their optical, geometric, salt and solvated isomers such as hydrates: (I) RrS-R2 (II) RrS-S-R2 formulas (I) and (II) wherein: Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C24)alkyl radical, a linear or branched (C2-Ci8)alkenyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a phenylalkyl radical having 7 to 15 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical, said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from -OH, -OC(O)-R3, -C(O)-O-R3, -C(O)-R3, -OR'3, and -NH2, in particular -OH, -OR'3, and -NH2, and / or said alkyl radical and / or said alkenyl radical being optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from heteroatoms such as -O-, or groups -N(H)-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-O-, -C(O)- or -NR'3-, said phenyl radical and / or said phenylalkyl radical, such as benzyl, being optionally substituted on the phenyl by 1 to 3 linear or branched (CrC io)alkyl radicals,with R3 independently representing a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical, a (C5-Ci2)cycloalkyl radical, a linear or branched (C3-C8)alkenyl radical, a (C6-Ci4)aryl radical, or a (C7-Ci5)aralkyl radical, and, R'3 representing a linear or branched (Ci-Ci8)alkyl radical; as a stabilizer in a perfumed composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular aqueous or hydroalcoholic, further comprising at least one organic UV filter selected from diben-zoylmethane derivatives and at least one perfumer substance.
15. Use according to the preceding claim, the sulfur antioxidant compound being as defined in claim 2 or 3, and / or said organic UV filter being as defined in claim 5, in particular implementing said sulfur antioxidant compound, said organic UV filter and said perfumer substance in the form of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), relative to the total weight of said fragrance composition.