COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN ACTIVE SKINCARE INGREDIENT

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ACTIVE SKINCARE INGREDIENT The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising three or more carbon atoms; (c) at least one active skincare ingredient; and (d) water. The composition according to the present invention can improve the penetration of ingredient (c) into the skin compared to a case where ingredient (b) is not used. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Description Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT FOR SKIN CARE technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a composition cosmetics and, even better, a cosmetic composition for the skin, which includes at least one active skincare ingredient. PREVIOUS STATE OF TECHNOLOGY

[0002] There is a wide variety of active ingredients for skin care used in the field of cosmetics and dermatological compositions.

[0003]

[0004] It is preferable that the active ingredients of skincare products be absorbed by the skin or that they penetrate the skin as much as possible. However, absorption by the skin or the skin penetration of such active skincare ingredients is not easy due to the skin's barrier function. Thus, a possible approach to Improving the skin penetration of a skincare active ingredient can be achieved by using a skin penetration amplifier with skin care active ingredient. For example, WO 2018 / 097303 uses a combination of a single acid ester polyglyceryl fatty acids and niacinamide in a nano- or micro-emulsion including a ceramide in order to improve the skin penetration of ceramide. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] There has always been a need for a composition comprising an active ingredient for the care of the skin that can improve the penetration into the skin of the active skincare ingredient skin, using a new skin penetration amplifier.

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition that can improve the penetration into the skin of an active skincare ingredient.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition

[0008] including: (a) at least one oil;

[0009] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more;

[0010] (c) at least one active skin care ingredient and

[0011] (d) of water.

[0012] The oil (a) can be chosen from the group consisting of: (i) fatty alcohols, (ii) (iii) fatty acids, (iv) monovalent carboxylic acid monoesters, (iv) diesters of divalent carboxylic acid, (v) N-acyl amino acid esters and (vi) lactates of alkyl, provided that 2

[0013] (i) fatty alcohols and (ii) fatty acids comprise a branched alkyl group or a linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26, and, Even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms and

[0014] (iii) monovalent carboxylic acid monoesters comprise an alkyl group branched or a linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5

[0015] with 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms, (iv) Divalent carboxylic acid diesters comprise at least one group branched alkyl having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, even better, 3 to 6 atoms of carbon, and an alkylene group having 6 to 18, preferably 6 to 14 and, better still, 6 to 10 carbon atoms,

[0016] (v) n-acyl amino acid esters comprise a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, even better, 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and an acyl group linear or branched having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 atoms of carbon, and

[0017] (vi) alkyl lactates comprise a linear or branched alkyl group or a linear or branched alkyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, better again, 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0018] The oil (a) can be selected from (v) n-acyl amino acid esters comprising at least one branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and Better still, 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably (v) n-acyl acid esters amino represented by the following general formula (5):

[0019] R²-N(R)-CH(R')-(CH2),-COO-R3 (5)

[0020] in which

[0021] R2 represents a linear or branched acyl group, having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0022] R³ represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, better Again, 3 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0023] R represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 with 4 carbon atoms,

[0024] R represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 with 4 carbon atoms that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group or a group phenyl and

[0025] n represents an integer from 0 to 2,

[0026] and, preferably, the oil (a) is isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0027] The quantity of the cosmetically hydrophilic organic solvent(s) acceptable in the composition according to the present invention may be between 3 between 0.5% and 25% by weight, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight, and even better, between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 carbon atoms or more can be selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, of dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, of polybutylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, of dihexylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

[0029] The weight ratio of the quantity of (b) diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms relative to the quantity (a) of oil may be 4 or more, preferably 5 or more, and even better 6 or more.

[0030] The (c) active skin care ingredient may have a Log P value of 4 or less, of Preference for -4.5 to 4.0 and, even better, from -4.0 to 3.5.

[0031] The active ingredient for skin care may be a cosmetic active ingredient For skincare, preferably a whitening or anti-wrinkle ingredient. and, even better, selected from the group composed of ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, tranexamic acid, tetrahydropyrantriol hydroxypropyl, niacinamide, salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol and a mixture of these substances.

[0032] The quantity of the (c) active skin care ingredient(s) in the composition according to the present invention, it can be between 0.01% and 25% by weight, of preferably between 0.05% and 20% by weight and, even better, between 0.1% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention may have a turbidity of 120 NTU or less, preferably 90 NTU or less and better still 60 NTU or less.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin and, even better, a cosmetic composition for skin care.

[0035] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, including the application step of the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0036] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to to provide a composition that can improve the penetration of an ingredient into the skin active skin care product using a new skin penetration amplifier.

[0037] Therefore, the present invention relates to a composition comprising:

[0038] (a) at least one oil; 4

[0039] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more;

[0040] (c) at least one active skin care ingredient and

[0041] (d) of water.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention can improve the penetration of the active skincare ingredient (c) in the skin, as opposed to a case in which ingredient (b) is not used.

[0043] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more can act as a skin penetration enhancer for (c) active ingredient in skincare.

[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. By Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can improve the radiance of the skin when applied to the skin.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention may include a relatively large amount important oil content. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can to provide better cosmetic effects derived from the relatively larger quantity important oil, such as an extra glow to the skin.

[0046] If the composition according to the present invention further comprises (e) at least a cellulosic compound, the composition according to the present invention may further improve skin radiance.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a fresh texture when used. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide a less greasy texture.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention can be stable over time, even under temperature changes, for example, temperature changes hot to cold and vice versa, so that they do not cause separation of phase, while maintaining a uniform appearance.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or slightly translucent, but preferably transparent.

[0050] in The composition according to the present invention must not include a surfactant. Thus, The amount of surfactant(s) in the composition can be limited, for example 1% weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less and, better still, 0.01% by weight weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include surfactant.

[0051] It is well known that surfactants can impart a greasy texture and a skin stimulation. 5

[0052] Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises only a quantity limited surfactant(s), the composition according to the present invention can provide a even less greasy texture.

[0053] Furthermore, if the composition according to the present invention comprises only a quantity limited surfactant(s), the composition according to the present invention can provide less skin stimulation.

[0054] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0055] [Oil]

[0056] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they can be the same or different.

[0057] Here, "oil" means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As for oils, those generally used in Cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0058] The oil (a) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable oil or animal and an ester oil or an ether oil or a mixture of these oils.

[0059] The oil (a) can be chosen from the group consisting of oils of origin vegetable or animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, oils based hydrocarbons and fatty alcohols.

[0060] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, oil of soy, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0062] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as that isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and the artificial triglycerides.

[0063] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of mono- or poly-acids saturated or unsaturated aliphatics, linear or branched in C₁-C26 and monoalcohols or saturated or unsaturated, linear or C₁-C26 branched aliphatic polyalcohols, the number

[0064] total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched. 6

[0065] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, palmitate may be mentioned ethyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, carbonate of dicaprylyl, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or myristate ethyl, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isonanoate isononyl, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0066] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and alcohols in C₁-C22 as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic and non-sugar alcohols dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or C4-C26 pentahydroxy can also be used.

[0067] In particular, the following compounds may be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-) sebacate ethylhexyl); diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; adipate of dioctyl; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; maleate bis(2-ethylethylethylyl); triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; citrate triisostearyl; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; citrate of trioctyldodecyl; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diisononanoate diethylene glycol.

[0068] Sugar esters and diesters can be used as ester oils of C6-C30 fatty acids and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds containing several functional groups. alcohol, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 atoms of carbon. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0069] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include the sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular derivatives alkylated, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0070] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group including the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22. If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three double bonds. conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon.

[0071] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from the monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0072] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in 7 in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0073] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0074] One example that can be mentioned is the product marketed under the name of Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0075] By way of example of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, adipate of diisopropyl, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-octanoate ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, the ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate isohexyl, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, the isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), the pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, sebacate of diethyl and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, the caprylyl glycerides, capryl, glyceryl trimyristate, tripalmitate glyceryl, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, tricaprate glyceryl, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and the tri(glyceryl caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0077] Examples of silicone oils include organopolysiloxanes linear such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, Methylhydrogen polysiloxane and similar compounds; organopolysiloxanes cyclic compounds such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, compounds similar and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and polyorganosiloxanes liquids containing at least one aryl group.

[0079] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. Silicones organomodified materials that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and include in their structure one or several organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group. 8

[0080] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0081] When they are volatile, silicones are more particularly chosen from among those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and more particularly among :

[0082] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, in particular, under the name "Volatile Silicone® 7207" by Unioncarbure or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "Volatile Silicone® 7158 » by Unioncarbure, of Silbione®70045 V5 marketed by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "Silsoft 1217" by "Momentive Performance Materials" and their blends. It Reference can also be made to cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / type methylalkylsiloxane, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 marketed by the Unioncarbure company, formula: CH with D" CH DD ة شم CH with D' SiOw CaH

[0083] Reference may also be made to mixtures of polydialkylsiloxanes cyclic compounds with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane and

[0084] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 m² / s at 25 °C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name SH 200 by the Toray Silicone company. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C in accordance with ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0085] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These silicones Non-volatile compounds are particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among of which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing groups trimethylsilyl terminals. 9

[0086] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, the following commercial products:

[0087] - Silbione® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or commercially available Mirasil® oils by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0088] - the oils of the Mirasil® series marketed by the company Rhodia;

[0089] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s and

[0090] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of General Electric.

[0091] Reference may also be made to polydimethylsiloxanes containing groups dimethylsilanol end products known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils from the Rhodia 48 series.

[0092] Among silicones containing aryl groups, polydiarylsiloxanes can be mentioned, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as oil of phenyl silicone.

[0093] The phenyl silicone oil can be selected from the phenyl silicones of the The following formula: R R2 R Ro Si-R6 R R4 Re R Si(R0)3

[0094] in which

[0095]

[0096] R₁ to R10 are, independently of each other, hydrocarbon radicals saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched in C₁-C30, preferably of C₁-C12 hydrocarbon radicals and, even better, C₁- hydrocarbon radicals C6, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals and m, n, pet q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, of preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, even better, from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0097] provided that the sum, n+m+q, is an integer other than 0.

[0098]

[0099] The products marketed under the following names are examples that may be mentioned: - Rhodia's Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series;

[0100] - the oils of the 70 633 and 763 Rhodorsil® series from Rhodia; 10

[0101] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0102] - Bayer's PK series silicones, such as product PK20;

[0103] - certain oils in the General Electric SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0104] As a phenyl silicone oil, it is preferable to use phenyl trimethicone (R₁ to R10: methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=1 in the formula above).

[0105] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain groups polyethylene oxy and / or polypropylene oxy. Silicone can also be mentioned. KF-6017 offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the company Unioncarbure.

[0106] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0107] - lower linear or branched alkanes, optionally cyclic at C6-C16. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane and

[0108] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 atoms of carbon, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam# and squalane.

[0109]

[0110] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, the squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petroleum, naphthalenes, and similar substances; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoicosan and the decene / butene copolymer and their compounds. The term "grass" in fatty alcohol signifies the inclusion of a relatively large number of grains. important number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated saturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

[0111] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from the saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 atoms of carbon, preferably with 6 to 30 carbon atoms and, even better, with 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R can be chosen from the alkyl groups at C12-C20 and alkenyl groups at C12-C20. R may or may not be substituted by au minus one hydroxyl group.

[0112] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, alcohol cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, alcohol 11 oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, Erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0113] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0114] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from pure or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, preferably pure or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and preferably, pure or branched alcohols saturated in C12-C20.

[0115] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long chain saturated aliphatic carbon. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected among all linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols in the C6-C30 range. Among the alcohols linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fats, linear saturated fatty alcohols or Branched C12-C20 alcohols are preferred. Any saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohol, Linear or branched, can be used preferably. C16- branched fatty alcohols C20 can be used preferably.

[0116] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, alcohol cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and their compounds. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture of these (for example, alcohol) cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as fatty alcohols saturated.

[0117] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention, cetyl alcohol is preferably chosen from among the ingredients listed. octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0118] It is also preferable to choose oil (a) from among oils of a weight molecular weight less than 600 g / mol.

[0119] Preferably, (a) the oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mole, chosen from ester oils with one or more hydrocarbon chains short (C₁-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), the silicone oils (for example, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol-type oils (C12-C30) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

[0120] Preferred embodiments of (a) the oil are described below.

[0121] It is preferable that (a) the oil be selected from the group consisting of (i) alcohols fats, (ii) fatty acids, (iii) monovalent carboxylic acid monoesters, (iv) of 12 (v) divalent carboxylic acid diesters, (v) n-acyl amino acid esters, and (vi) alkyl lactates, under the following conditions:

[0122] (i) fatty alcohols and (ii) fatty acids comprise a branched alkyl group or a linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26, and, Better still, 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0123] (iii) monovalent carboxylic acid monoesters comprise an alkyl group branched or a linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 with 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0124] the (iv) divalent carboxylic acid diesters comprise at least one, of preferably two, branched alkyl groups having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, better again, 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and an alkylene group having 6 to 18, preferably α to 14 and, even better, 6 to 10 carbon atoms,

[0125] (v) n-acyl amino acid esters comprise a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, even better, 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and an acyl group linear or branched having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 atoms of carbon, and

[0126] the (vi) alkyl lactates comprise a linear or branched alkyl group or a linear or branched alkyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, better again, 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0127] In this specification, the <alkyl group> refers to a hydrocarbon group saturated monovalent linear or branched aliphatic.

[0128]

[0129] Examples of linear alkyl groups with 4 to 30 carbon atoms include, for example, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group n-heptyl, an n-octyl group, an n-nonyl group, an n-decyl group, a nundecyl group, an n-dodecyl group, an n-tridecyl group, an n-tetradecyl group, a n-pentadecyl group, n-hexadecyl group, n-heptadecyl group, noctadecyl group, n-nonadecyl group and n-eicosyl group.

[0130] Examples of branched alkyl groups with 4 to 30 carbon atoms include, for example, an isobutyl group, a sec-butyl group, a tert-butyl group, an isopentyl group, a neopentyl group, an isohexyl group neohexyl, an isoheptyl group, a neoheptyl group, an isooctyl group, a isonyl group, isonocyl group, isodecyl group, isoundecyl group, an isododecyl group, an isotridecyl group, an isotetradecyl group, a group isopentadecyl, an isohexadecyl group, an isoheptadecyl group isooctadecyl, an isononadecyl group, an isoicosyl group. Examples of branched alkyl groups with 3 to 10 carbon atoms include, for example, an isopropyl group, an isobutyl group, a sec-butyl group, a tert-butyl group, isopentyl group, neopentyl group, isohexyl group, 13 a neohexyl group, an isoheptyl group, a neoheptyl group, a group isooctyl, an isooctyl group, an isononyl group and an isodecyl group.

[0131] In this specification, the "alkenyl group" refers to a hydrocarbon group monovalent unsaturated aliphatic, linear or branched, having at least one double carbon-carbon bond.

[0132]

[0133] As a linear alkenyl group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, it can be made mention, for example, of a butenyl group, a hexenyl group, a group heptenyl, of a heptadienyl group, of a heptatrienyl group, of a group octenyl, of an octadienyl group, of an octratrienyl group, of a nonenyl group, of a nonadienyl group, a nonatrienyl group, a decenyl group, a decadienyl group, decatrienyl group, undecenyl group, group undecadienyl, of an undecatrienyl group, of a dodecenyl group, of a group dodecadienyl, a dodecatrienyl group, a tridecenyl group, a group tridecadienyl, a tridecatrienyl group, a tetradecenyl group, a group tetradecadienyl, of a tetradecadienyl group, of a tetradecatrienyl group, of a pentadecenyl group, of a pentadecadienyl group, of a group pentadecatrienyl, a hexadecenyl group, a hexadecadienyl group, a hexadecatrienyl group, heptadecenyl group, heptadecadienyl group, of a heptadecatrienyl group, of an octadecenyl group, of an octadecadienyl group, of an octadecatrienyl group, of a nonadecenyl group, of a nonadecadienyl group, of a nonadecatrienyl group and an eicosenyl group. As a branched alkenyl group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, it can be made mention, for example, of an isobuteryl group, a sec-butenyl group, a isopentenyl group, isohexenyl group, isoheptenyl group, a isooctenyl group, isononenyl group, isodecenyl group, group isodecadienyl, an isodecatrienyl group, an isoundecenyl group, a group isoundecadienyl, of an isoundecatrienyl group, of an isododecenyl group, of a isododecadienyl group, isododecatrienyl group, isotridecenyl group, of an isotridecadienyl group, of an isotridecatienyl group, of a group isotetradecenyl, of an isotetradecadienyl group, of an isotetradecadienyl group, of an isotetradecatrienyl group, of an isopentadecenyl group, of a group isopentadecadienyl, of an isopentadecatrienyl group, of an isohexadecenyl group, of an isohexadecadienyl group, of an isohexadecatrienyl group, of a group isoheptadecenyl, of an isoheptadecadienyl group, of an isoheptadecatrienyl group, of an isooctadecenyl group, of an isooctadecadienyl group, of a group isooctadecatrienyl, of an isononadecenyl group, of an isononadecadienyl group, of an isononadecatrienyl group and an isoeicosenyl group. 14

[0134] In this specification, the <acyl group> refers to the R-CO group, in which R denotes a linear monovalent saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group

[0135]

[0136]

[0137]

[0138] or branched (alkyl group). As a linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, it can Mention should be made, for example, of a butanoyl group, an isobutanoyl group, of a sec-butanoyl group, a tert-butanoyl group, an n-pentanoyl group, of an isopentanoyl group, a neopentanoyl group, an n-hexanoyl group, of an isohexanoyl group, a neohexanoyl group, an n-heptanoyl group, of an isoheptanoyl group, a neoheptanoyl group, an n-octanoyl group, of an isooctanoyl group, an n-nonanoyl group, an isononanoyl group, of an n-decanoyl group, an isodecanoyl group, an n-undecanoyl group, of an isoundecanoyl group, of an n-dodecanoyl (lauroyl) group, of a group isododecanoyl, an n-tridecanoyl group, an isotridodecanoyl group, a n-tetradecanoyl (myristoyl) group, of an isotetradecanoyl group, of a group n-pentadecanoyl, an isopentadecanoyl group, an n-hexadecanoyl group (palmitoyl), an isohexadecanoyl group, an n-heptadecanoyl group, a isohexadecanoyl group, an n-octadecanoyl (stearoyl) group, a group isooctadecanoyl, an n-nonadecanoyl group, an isononadecanoyl group, a n-eicosanoyl group and an isoeicosanoyl group. (i) Fatty alcohol can be represented by the following general formula (1): R¹-OH (1) in which

[0139] R¹ represents a branched alkyl group, or a linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0140] By way of examples of the branched alkyl group and the linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, mention can be made of those listed above.

[0141] By way of (i) fatty alcohol represented by formula (1), reference may be made to, for example, 2-ethylhexanol alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, alcohol isostearyl alcohol, elaidylic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and a mixture of these.

[0142] It is preferable that (i) the fatty alcohol be chosen from the group consisting of alcohol isostearyl, oleyl alcohol and a mixture of the latter.

[0143] (ii) The fatty acid can be represented by the following general formula (2):

[0144] R¹-COOH (2)

[0145] in which 15

[0146] R¹ represents a branched alkyl group, or a linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0147] By way of examples of the branched alkyl group and the linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, mention can be made of those listed above.

[0148] By way of (ii) fatty acid represented by formula (2), reference may be made, by for example, isocaproic acid, isonanoic acid, crotonic acid, isolauric acid, myristoleic acid, isopalmitic acid, acid palmitoleic acid, isostearic acid, elaidic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, acid eicosapentaenoic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, of nervonic acid and a mixture of the latter.

[0149] It is preferable that (ii) the fatty acid be selected from the group composed of acid isostearic acid, oleic acid and a mixture of the latter.

[0150] The (iii) monovalent monoester of carboxylic acid can be represented by the The following general formula (3): R2-COO-R 3 (3) in which

[0151]

[0152]

[0153] each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms R2 represents a branched alkyl group or a linear or branched alkenyl group,

[0154] And R3 represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, better again, 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0155] By way of examples of the branched alkyl group and the linear or branched alkenyl group, each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, mention can be made of those listed above.

[0156] By way of examples of the branched alkyl group having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, it can Mention should be made of those listed above.

[0157] As (iii) monovalent carboxylic acid monoester represented by the formula (3), mention may be made, for example, of isopropyl palmitate, of isopropyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, of isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate of isostearyl and a mixture of these substances.

[0158] It is preferable that (iii) the monovalent carboxylic acid monoester be of isopropyl isostearate.

[0159] The (iv) divalent carboxylic acid diester can be represented by the formula The following general rule (4): 16

[0160] R2-OC(=O)-R*-C(=O)O-R³ (4)

[0161] in which

[0162] R2 and R³ independently represent a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, of preferably 3 to 8 and, even better, 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and

[0163] R represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 6 to 18, preferably 6 to 14 and, even better, 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0164] By way of examples of the branched alkyl group having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, it can Mention should be made of those listed above.

[0165] By way of examples of the linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 10 atoms of carbon, we can cite, for example, an ethylene group, a propylene group, a butylene group, pentylene group, hexylene group, heptylene group, a octylene group, nonylene group and decanylene group.

[0166] It is preferable that (iv) the divalent carboxylic acid diester be selected in the group composed of diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and a a mixture of these.

[0167] The n-acyl amino(v) acid ester can be represented by the following general formula (5):

[0168] R²-N(R)-CH(R)-(CH2)-COO-R³ (5)

[0169] in which

[0170] R2 represents a linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, even better, 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0171] R3 represents a branched alkyl group having 3 to 10, preferably 3 to 8 and, better Again, 3 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0172] R³ represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 with 4 carbon atoms,

[0173] R represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 with 4 carbon atoms that can be substituted by a hydroxyl group or a group phenyl and

[0174] n represents an integer from 0 to 2.

[0175] By way of examples of the linear or branched acyl group having 4 to 30 atoms of carbon, mention can be made of those listed above.

[0176] By way of examples of the branched alkyl group having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, it can Mention should be made of those listed above.

[0177] As examples of a linear or branched alkyl group having | with 4 atoms of carbon, we can mention a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, an n-butyl group, an isobutyl group, a sec-butyl group and a tert-butyl group. 17

[0178] As (v) an n-acyl amino acid ester represented by formula (5), it can Mention should be made, for example, of the following compounds: N-capryloyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, N-caprynoyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, isopropyl ester of N-lauroyl sarcosine, isopropyl ester of acyl sarcosine fatty acid oil of N-coco (isopropyl ester of N-cocoyl sarcosine), isopropyl ester of N-myristoyl sarcosine, isopropyl ester of N-palmitoyl sarcosine, ester isopropyl of N-stearoyl sarcosine, isobutyl ester of N-capryloyl sarcosine, isobutyl ester N-caprynoyl sarcosine, isobutyl ester of N-lauroyl sarcosine, isobutyl ester of N-cocoyl oil fatty acid acyl sarcosine (isobutyl ester of N-cocoyl sarcosine), isobutyl ester of N-myristoyl sarcosine, isobutyl ester of N-palmitoyl sarcosine, isobutyl ester of N-stearoyl sarcosine, isopropyl ester of N-capryloyl glycine, isopropyl ester of N-caprynoyl glysine, isopropyl ester of N-lauroyl glycine, isopropyl ester of acyl N-cocoyl oil fatty acid glycine (isopropyl ester of N-cocoyl glycine), N-myristoyl glycine isopropyl ester, N-palmitoyl isopropyl ester glycine, isopropyl ester of N-stearoyl glycine, isopropyl ester of N-capryloyl alanine, isopropyl ester of N-caprinoyl alanine, isopropyl ester of N-lauroyol Alanine, isopropyl ester of acyl alanine fatty acid from N-coconut oil (ester N-cocoyl alanine isopropyl ester), N-myristoyl alanine isopropyl ester, ester N-palmitoylalanine isopropyl ester, N-stearoylalanine isopropyl ester isopropyl of N-lauroyl-β-alanine, isopropyl ester of N-lauroyl-N-methyl-balanine, isopropyl ester of N-acyl-N-methyl-β-alanine fatty acid from coconut oil (isopropyl ester of N-cocoyl-N-methyl-ẞ-alanine) and similar.

[0179] It is preferable that (v) the N-acyl amino acid ester be isopropyl sarcosinate lauroyl. Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, a commercial product, can be used as an alternative. such as Eldew® SL-205 from Ajinomoto.

[0180] Alkyl lactate (vi) can be represented by the following general formula (6):

[0181] CH3-C(OH)-COO-R76)

[0182] in which

[0183] R represents a linear or branched alkyl group or a linear alkenyl group or branched, each having 4 to 30, preferably 5 to 26 and, better still, 6 to 22 atoms of carbon.

[0184] By way of examples of the linear or branched alkyl group or the alkenyl group linear or branched, each having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, mention can be made of those listed above.

[0185] By way of examples (vi) of alkyl lactate represented by formula (6), one can mention, for example, caprylic lactate, caprylyl lactate, lactate of 18 lauryl, myristyle lactate, palmityl lactate, stearyl lactate, lactate isostearyl, oleyl lactate and linoleyl lactate.

[0186] It is preferable that (vi) the alkyl lactate be selected from the group constituted lauryl lactate, isostearyl lactate and a mixture of the latter.

[0187] The quantity (a) of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and better still 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Furthermore, the quantity (a) of the oil(s) in the composition according to this The invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and better still, 15% or less by weight, compared to the total weight of the composition.

[0189]

[0190] Therefore, the quantity of the oil(s) according to the present invention can be between 0.5% and 25% by weight, preferably between 1% and 20% by weight, and better yet, between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (b) diol having at minus a carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms. One can use (b) two or more diols having at least one carbon chain comprising three atoms of carbon or more.

[0191] The term <diol> here designates a compound which has two alcoholic functions. In In other words, a diol is an alcohol with two hydroxy groups.

[0192] The number of carbon atoms in the carbon chain may be less than or equal to to 10, preferably less than or equal to 8, and even better, less than or equal to 6. It can to be even more preferable than the number of carbon atoms in the carbon chain either 5 or 6.

[0193] The carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the ingredient (b) can be straight or branched. The carbon chain must not be interrupted by a heteroatom such as an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom and a nitrogen atom. Thus, the carbon chain can include consecutive carbon atoms.

[0194] It may be preferable that the number of carbon chains comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more in ingredient (b) either 1 or 2.

[0195] The total number of carbon atoms in ingredient (b) may be equal to or greater to 5. The total number of carbon atoms in ingredient (b) may be less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 8, and better still, less than or equal to 6. It may be even more preferable than the total number of carbon atoms in the ingredient (b) is either 5 or 6.

[0196] The (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more (preferably 8 or less, and even better 6 atoms or less) may have a straight or divalent branched hydrocarbon group. The group 19

[0197] straight or branched divalent hydrocarbon that may be present in the ingredient (b) can be saturated or unsaturated. It is preferable that the (b) diol(s) have at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms includes a group a straight or branched divalent saturated hydrocarbon and, even better, an alkylene group straight or branched, such as a propylene group, a butylene group, a pentylene group and a hexylene group. The (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more can have a linear, branched or molecular structure cyclic, provided that it has a carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more.

[0198] The (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more can be a C3.10 diol, preferably a C4-8 diol, and better yet another C5.6 diol, comprising 2 hydroxy groups.

[0199] It is preferable that the (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 carbon atoms are selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipentylene glycol, of hexylene glycol, dihexylene glycol and a mixture of the latter.

[0200] It is preferable that the (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms be selected from the group composed of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, of hexylene glycol and a mixture thereof. Pentylene glycol is preferable.

[0201] The quantity of (b) diols having at least one carbon chain of 3 carbon atoms or more in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or plus, preferably 25% by weight or more and, better still, 30% by weight or plus, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] Furthermore, the quantity of (b) diols (3) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and better still, 50% or less by weight, compared to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] The quantity of (b) diols having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 60% % by weight, preferably 25% to 55% by weight and, even better, 30% to 50% in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] [Diol / oil weight ratio] 20

[0205] The weight ratio of the quantity of (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms relative to the quantity (a) of oil(s) may be 4 or more, preferably 5 or more, and preferably 6 or more.

[0206] On the other hand, the weight ratio of the quantity of (b) diol(s) having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms relative to the quantity (a) of oil(s) may be less than or equal to 20, preferably less than or equal to 15 and, Better still, less than or equal to 10.

[0207] Thus, the weight ratio of the quantity of (b) diol(s) having at least one chain carbonaceous comprising 3 or more carbon atoms relative to quantity (a) The oil content can be between 4 and 20, preferably between 5 and 15, and even better, between 6 and 10.

[0208] [Skin care active ingredient]

[0209] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one active ingredient of skin care. Only one type of (c) active ingredient for skin care can be used, but two or more different types of (c) active ingredients for the care of the skin can be used in combination.

[0210] It is preferable that the (c) active skincare ingredient has a Log P value of 4 or less, better still between -4.5 and 4.0, and even better still between -4.0 and 3.5.

[0211]

[0212] A Log P value is a value of the decimal logarithm of the apparent coefficient of octanol-1-ol / water partitioning. Log p values ​​are known and are determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of compound (c) in octanol-1 and water. Log P can be calculated using the method described in Meylan's article and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using numerous commercially available software packages, which determine the log P as a function of a molecule's structure. As an example, it can be done mention of the Epiwin software from the US Environmental Protection Agency. The values ​​can be calculated using software such as ACD (Advanced) Chemistry Development) Solaris V4.67; they can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: Hydrophobic, Electronic, and Steric Constants (book by (ACS professional reference, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0213] The (c) active skin care ingredient may be in the form of a salt. The salts of the (c) active ingredients in skincare products include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or a base. 21

[0214] It is preferable that the (c) skin care active ingredient be an active ingredient cosmetics for skin care and, even better, a whitening ingredient for the skin or an anti-aging ingredient for the skin such as an anti-wrinkle ingredient.

[0215] Vitamin B3 and its derivatives can be mentioned as (c) an active ingredient of skin care.

[0216] Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, is a compound of the formula next (I): (1)

[0217] where R can be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinic acid) or -CONH-OH (niconitylhydroxymic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0218] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, Nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amide derivatives niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, the products of the reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, the esters of alcohol nicotinyl and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0219]

[0220] We can also mention the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-Methylnicotinamide, 6-Aminonicotinamide, N-Methylnicotinamide, N,N-Dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate. Other derivatives of vitamin B3 that can also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and their organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with Carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

[0221] Ascorbic acid and its derivatives may be mentioned as (c) an ingredient active ingredient for skin care.

[0222] Ascorbic acid is usually in L-form, as it is generally derived from natural products.

[0223] Due to its chemical structure (α-keto lactone) which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat, and aqueous environments, it It may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of a derivative or a 22

[0224] analogue chosen, for example, from saccharide esters of ascorbic acid or of metallic salts of phosphoryl ascorbic acid, alkali metal salts, esters and of sugars. The saccharidic esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the The present invention includes, in particular, glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, and fucosyl. galactosyl, N-acetylucosamine and N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives ascorbic acid, and a mixture thereof, and more particularly ascorbyl glucoside such as that ascorbyl-2 glucoside, 2-OaD-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or acid 6-O-ẞ-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. These compounds and the processes for Their preparation is described in particular in documents EP-A-0 487 404, EP-A-0 425 066 and JP 05 213 736.

[0225] With regard to the metallic salt of phosphoryl ascorbic acid, it can to be chosen from among the alkali metals and, in particular, sodium and phosphates ascorbyl, ascorbyl phosphates of alkaline earth metals and phosphates of ascorbyl and transition metals.

[0226] It is also possible to use precursors of ascorbic acid such as active agent amides and saccharide derivatives of active agent, which involve respectively proteases or peptidases and glycosidases such as enzymes to release ascorbic acid in situ. These compounds are described in the patent EP 0 667 145.

[0227] The saccharide derivatives of the active agent are specially selected from the C3 to C6 saccharidic derivatives. They are particularly chosen from among the derivatives glucosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, galactosyl and N-acetylgalactosamine, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives and derivatives of sialic acid, and a mixture of these derivatives.

[0228] The second precursors of ascorbic acid can be chosen from derivatives hydrolyzed by other enzymes, for example by esterases, phosphatases, sulfatases, etc. According to the present invention, the second precursors of the active agent can be chosen, for example, from among phosphates, sulfates, palmitates, acetates, propionates, ferulates and, in general, alkyl or acyl esters, The alkyl or acyl ethers of the active agent. The acyl and alkyl radicals. contain, in particular, 1 to 30 carbon atoms. As an active ingredient for In skincare, we can mention 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0229] In particular, the second precursor may be an ester derived from the reaction with a mineral acid such as a sulfate or phosphate to react with a sulfatase or a phosphatase upon contact with the skin, and the second precursor can be an ester acyl or alkyl derivative resulting from the reaction with an organic acid, for example a palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, nicotinic acid, a 23

[0230] 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid or ferulic acid to react with an esterase specific skin type. Other derivatives are described, for example, in patent EP 1 430 883.

[0231] Ascorbic acid analogues are more particularly its salts, notably alkali metal salts, for example sodium ascorbate, its esters, in particular its acetic, propionic or palmitic esters, or its sugars, in particular acid glycosyl ascorbic acid.

[0232] As (c) active ingredient in skin care, reference may be made to derivatives resorcinol.

[0233] The resorcinol derivative may preferably be derivatives substituted at the position 4, such as 4-alkylresorcinols, even better phenylethylresorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol and 4-(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl)benzene-1,3-diol, and in particular the Phenylethylresorcinol, due to its whitening effect. Phenol ethyl resorcinol is also called 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol and is represented by the formula The following chemical compound. Phenol-ethyl-resorcinol can be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (product name: Symwhite 377®).

[0234] HO OH Other examples of resorcinol derivatives include: 2- methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-Dimethylresorcinol, 4,5-Dimethylresorcinol, 2,4-Dimethyl-1,3- benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine, 5-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5- alcohol dihydroxybenzyl, 2-methoxyresorcinol, 4-methoxyresorcinol monohydrate of 3,5-dihydroxytoluene, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2',4'- dihydroxyacetophenone, 3',5'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone-4- methylbenzaldehyde, 4-propylresorcinol, 2,4-dihydroxy-1,3,5-trimethylbenzene, 3,5-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-Dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-Dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5- dihydroxybanzoic, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, hydrate of 3,5-Dihydroxyanisole, 4-Aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, hydrochloride of 2-aminoresorcinol, 5-aminobenzene-1,3-diol hydrochloride, the 2',4'- dihydroxypropiophenone, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylacetophenone, (2,4- (dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, (3,5-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4'- 24 methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2,4-diethyl-1,3-benzenediol, acid 3,5-Dihydroxy-4-methylbanzoic acid, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylbanzoic acid 2,4-Dihydroxy-6-methylbanzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5- methoxybenzene-1,3-diol, 4-amino-3,5-dihydroxybenzene monohydrate of 3,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine hydrochloride, 4,6- dichlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylpropiophenone, 1-(3-ethyl-2,6- dihydroxyphenyl)ethan-1-one, 2',6'-dihydroxy-4'-methoxyacetophenone, 1-(2,6- 3-dihydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl ethan-1-one, 3(2,4-dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbanzoic acid.

[0235] As c) active ingredient in skin care, reference may be made to derivatives of glycoside C.

[0236] Glycoside C derivatives that may be present in the composition In accordance with the present invention, compounds of formula are chosen from among the compounds of general (II) below:

[0237] (II) S XR in which: methyl;

[0238] R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical C₁-C4 and C₁-C2, in particular

[0239] S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetylD-glucosamine and L-fucose and, in particular, D-xylose;

[0240] X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably, a -CH(OH)- group;

[0241] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0242] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside derivatives more particularly suitable for use in the present invention, one may mention, in particular, the following derivatives:

[0243] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0244] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0245] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0246] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0247] 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0248] 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxpropane;

[0249] 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0250] 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0251] 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; 25

[0252] 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one;

[0253] 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxpropane;

[0254] 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0255] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0256] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and, even better, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used

[0257] for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention. According to a particular embodiment, a C glycoside derivative which suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously to be hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, known as C-beta-Dxylopyranoside-2-hydroxpropane, marketed particularly as a 30% solution by weight in a water / propylene glycol (60 / 40) mixture under the name Mexoryl SBB® by Chimex. According to one embodiment, the glycoside derivative C is presented as the form of a solution in which it is present in an amount of 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, the remainder being a mixture of water and propylene glycol.

[0258] Salts of C glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present

[0259] inventions may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or mineral acids. Salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, acid hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid can They can be mentioned as examples. Salts of acids can also be mentioned. organic compounds, which may include one or more carboxylic acid groups, sulfonic or phosphonic acids. These can be linear or branched aliphatic acids. or cyclic or aromatic acids. These acids may also include a or several heteroatoms chosen from 0 and N, for example in the form of groups hydroxyls. Examples include propionic acid and acetic acid. terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. The solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described herein invention includes conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final preparation phase of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. For example, there may be mentioned solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0260] A C-glycoside derivative suitable for use in the present invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in document WO 02 / 051 828. 26

[0261] As the (c) active ingredient for skin care, there may be mentioned salicylic acid and its derivatives. The derivatives of salicylic acid can be represented by formula III : 發 이 Ο (III) OH C1 R

[0262]

[0263] in which The radical R denotes a saturated aliphatic chain, linear, branched or cyclic, containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that can be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or by through saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing 2 to 7 atoms of carbon; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) a group trifluoromethyl, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0264] R' is a hydroxyl group. The salicylic acid derivative can be found in the form of

[0265] form of a salt derived from an inorganic or organic base. As (c) an active ingredient in skincare, mention can be made of acid tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as tranexamic acid esters and amides.

[0266] Examples of tranexamic acid derivatives include tranexamic acid dimers (such as hydrochloric acid) trans-4-(trans-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyl) carboxylic acid aminomethylcyclohexane), tranexamic acid esters and hydroquinone (such as 4'-hydroxyphenyl trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane carbocylate), tranexamic acid and gentisic acid esters (such as 2- (trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyloxy)-5-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts), tranexamic amides (such as trans-4- acid methylamide aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid and its salts, trans-4-(p-methoxybenzoyl)aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid and its salts, and trans-4- guanidinomethylcyclohexane and its salts) and similar.

[0267] It is even more preferable that the active skincare ingredient (c) be selected from the group composed of ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl acid 27 ascorbic acid, tranexamic acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, niacinamide, salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, and a mixture of these substances.

[0268] The quantity of (c) skin care active ingredient in the composition according to the The present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight. weight or more, and even better, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the weight total composition.

[0269]

[0270] Furthermore, the quantity of (c) active skin care ingredient in the composition according to the present invention, it may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% in weight or less, and better still, by 15% in weight or less, compared to the weight total composition. The quantity of (c) active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0271] [Water]

[0272] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water:

[0273] The quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be 30 % by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more and, even better, 40% in weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] Furthermore, the quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and better again, 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0275] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 30% to 60% by weight, preferably 35% to 55% by weight, and even better 40%

[0276] % to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Cellulosic compound]

[0277] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one cellulosic compound. Two or more cellulosic compounds may be used.

[0278] The (e) at least one cellulosic compound may act as a brightness enhancer cutaneous.

[0279] Cellulosic compounds (e) may be anionic, cationic, polymers amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0280] The term "cellulosic compounds", according to the present invention, designates any composed of polysaccharides having residues in its structural sequences of glucose molecules linked together via κ-1,4 bonds, including unsubstituted celluloses, as well as derivatives of anionic, cationic, amphoteric and cellulosic derivatives non-ionic. 28

[0281]

[0282] Thus, the (e) cellulosic compounds can be chosen, for example, from among the unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, as well as among cellulosic ethers, cellulosic esters, cellulosic ester ethers and their mixtures. Among the cellulosic esters, we can mention the cellulosic esters inorganic (nitrates, sulfates, cellulose phosphates, etc.), cellulosic esters organic (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, cellulose acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.) and organic esters / mixed inorganic cellulose compounds, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulosic ester ethers, Examples include hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and sulfates. of ethylcellulose. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the (e) compound Cellulosic is non-associative. "Non-associative" cellulosic compounds are cellulose polymers that do not include a fatty chain, and preferably not of C10-C30 chains, in their structure.

[0283] According to a first variant, the (e) cellulosic compound is non-ionic. It can mention should be made of alkylcelluloses in (C₁-C4) such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical; of alkylcelluloses (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C4) such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, for example Natrosol 250 HHR, marketed by Aqualon and hydroxypropylcelluloses, for example Klucel EF marketed by Aqualon; mixed alkylcelluloses (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C4)alkyl-(C₁-C4) such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical; hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses for example

[0284] Akzo Noble's Bermocoll E 481 FQ and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses. According to a second variant, the (e) cellulosic compound is anionic. Among anionic cellulosic ethers, we can mention (poly)carboху(C₁- C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. As an example, we can mention the carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethyl celluloses (for example Blanose) 7M from the Aqualon company) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.

[0285] According to a third variant, the (e) cellulosic compound is cationic. Among cationic celluloses, we can mention cationic derivatives such as cellulosic copolymers or cellulosic derivatives grafted with a monomer of water-soluble quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in the US patent No. 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C4) alkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses 29 grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallyl. The products Commercial products that fall under this definition are, more specifically, the products marketed under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0286] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the (e) Cellulosic compounds are associative. "Associative" cellulosic compounds are cellulosic polymers that include in their structure any fatty chain and, preferably, a C10-C30 chain.

[0287]

[0288]

[0289] Associative cellulosic compounds can be cationic. Among these cationic associative cellulosic compounds; the preferred compounds are modified quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof. alkyl radicals carried by quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses The above preferably comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals preferentially designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. One can to indicate, as examples, quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses having Cs-C30 fatty chains, Quatrisoft LM 200a, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18- products Aa, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-Ba (alkyl C12) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8a (alkyl C18). marketed by Aqualon, the products Crodacel QMa, Crodacel QLa (alkyl C12) and Crodacel QSa (alkyl C18), marketed by Croda, and the product Softcat SL 100a marketed by Aqualon. Associative cellulosic compounds can be non-ionic. Among These preferred non-ionic associative cellulosic compounds include the celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or their mixtures, where the alkyl groups are Cg-C30 alkyl groups and in particular: non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, such as Natrosol products Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) marketed by Aqualon; the non-ionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, such as the Amercell HM-1500 product marketed by Amerchol; non-ionic alkylcelluloses, such as the product BermoCOL EHM 100 marketed by Berol Nobel. Cellulosic compounds (e) may preferably be non-ionic or anionic and free of fatty chains (non-associative alkylcellulose polymer, non-ionic or anionic). Preferably, the (e) cellulosic compounds which which may be useful in the present invention are chosen from among the ethers 30 non-ionic cellulosics such as (C₁-C4)alkylcelluloses, (poly)hydroxy(C1- C4)alkylcelluloses (poly)hydroxy(C₁-C4)alkyl-(C₁-C4)alkylcelluloses, such than hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses and anionic cellulosic ethers such as carboxymethylcelluloses, in particular sodium carboxymethylcellulose.

[0290] It is preferable that the (e) cellulosic compound be chosen from the group consisting unmodified non-ionic or anionic cellulosic ethers.

[0291] It is preferable that the (e) cellulosic compound be chosen from the group composed

[0292] cellulose, cellulose gum, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose and a mixture of these. The quantity of (e) cellulosic compound(s) in the composition according to the present The invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight. or more, and better still, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] Furthermore, the quantity of (e) cellulosic compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight weight or less, and better still, 30% or less by weight, compared to the total weight of the composition.

[0294]

[0295] The quantity of the cellulosic compound(s) in the composition according to the The present invention can be from 0.01% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 35%. % by weight and, even better, from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Optional ingredients]

[0296] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one optional ingredient commonly used in cosmetics, chosen, by For example, among film-forming polymers are solvents, dyes, pigments, and UV filters, antioxidants, preservatives, pH adjusting agents and

[0297] their mixtures. The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more solvents. cosmetically acceptable organic compounds, which may include alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, alcohol benzyl and phenylethyl alcohol; diols other than ingredient (b) such than ethylene glycol, propylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, the sugar and carbohydrate alcohols; and ethers such as monomethyl ethers, monoethyl and monobutyl ethylene glycol, monomethyl ether, 31 monoethyl and monobutyl propylene glycol and monomethyl ethers, monoethyl and monobutyl butylene glycol.

[0298] The quantity of the organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present

[0299]

[0300] The invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and better still, 1% or more by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the quantity of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the The present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight. weight or less, and better still, 10% or less by weight, compared to the total weight of the composition. The quantity of the organic solvent(s) in the composition according to this The invention may be between 0.01% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.1 between 1% and 20% by weight, and even better between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.

[0301] [Preparation]

[0302] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the one or more essential ingredients as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable necessary, as explained above.

[0303] The process and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients The above are not exhaustive. Any conventional method or means may be used. to mix the essential and optional ingredients above in order to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0304] [Form]

[0305] The shape of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.

[0306] The composition according to the present invention can be thermodynamically stable and can be considered as a single-phase composition.

[0307] The composition according to the present invention may be transparent.

[0308] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach) Company) equipped with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the composition undiluted. The blank test can be titrated with distilled water.

[0309] The composition according to the present invention has a turbidity of 120 NTU or less, of Preference for 90 NTU or less, and even better for 60 NTU or less.

[0310] [Process and use] 32

[0311] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a composition cosmetic or dermatological, preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin and, even better, a cosmetic skincare composition.

[0312] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a process non-therapeutic, such as a cosmetic process, to treat skin, by being applied to the skin.

[0313] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of a keratinous substance such as skin, including the application step of the composition according to the present invention on the keratin substance.

[0314] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a product cosmetics such as skincare products.

[0315] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to The present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. By For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

[0316] The skin care product can be a lotion, a cream, a serum, etc.

[0317] Another aspect of the present invention also relates to a method of preparation of a composition, including a mixing step:

[0318] (a) at least one oil;

[0319] (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more;

[0320] (c) at least one active skin care ingredient and

[0321] (d) of water.

[0322] It is preferable that the mixing step be carried out by a so-called low-energy process energy without a special mechanical agitator, such as a homogenizer that uses a large amount of energy. The low-energy process can be carried out by stirring simply the ingredients (a) to (d).

[0323] Another aspect of the present invention relates to the use:

[0324] (b) of at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more

[0325] in a composition comprising:

[0326] (a) at least one oil;

[0327] (c) at least one active ingredient for skin care and

[0328] (d) water

[0329] in order to improve or enhance the penetration of (c) the active ingredient of the skincare skin. 33

[0330] The present invention also relates to a use:

[0331] (b) of at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more

[0332] as a skin penetration agent for

[0333] (c) at least one active skin care ingredient,

[0334] in a composition comprising:

[0335] (a) at least one oil and

[0336] (d) of water.

[0337] It is preferable that the above composition be used and the process according to the present invention either in the form of a micro-emulsion and, better still, of a H / W micro-emulsion.

[0338] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as the Optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention may apply to the uses and processes according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the composition according to the The present invention can also be applied to the compositions listed in the uses and processes above. EXAMPLES

[0339]

[0340] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not however, they shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples of invention 1 to 6 and Comparative examples 1 to 12]

[0341] The following compositions according to examples 1-6 and the comparative examples 1-12, shown in Tables 1-3, were prepared by mixing the ingredients indicated in Tables 1-3 as follows. The symbols < (a) », < (b) », < (c) » and The values ​​in Tables 1-3 correspond to those in the claims. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients indicated in Tables 1-3 are all based on <% by weight” of active raw materials.

[0342] [Tables1] 34 Ingredients Log P Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 (d) Water psq qsp qsp qsp 100 qsp 10 psq 100 100 100 0 100 Hydroxyethylcell 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 dare (b) Pentylene glycol 40 40 40 40 40 40 (a) Isopropyl lauroyl Sarcosinate 10 10 10 10 10 10 (c) Ascorbyl Glucoside -3.4 1 Tranexamic acid -1.6 Hydroxypropyl Tetr -1.5 10 - ahydropyrantriol Niacinamide -0.37 - Salicylic acid 2.2 Phenylethyl resorb inol 3.07 5 0.2 0.3 Amount of penetration active ingredient (%) 68.2 79.0 50.1 75.3 81.9 1.5

[0343] [Tables2]

[0344] 35 Ingredients Log P Comp. Comp. Com Com comp. Ex. 2 1 p. Ex. 3 p. Comp. Ex. 5 Ex. Ex. 6 Ex. 4 (d) Water qs 10 qs 100 qs qs qs 100 qs 100 0 100 100 Hydroxyethylcellulose ulose 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 cross polymer acrylates / acryl C1 alkylate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0-30 (a) Isopropyl lauroyl Sarcosinate 10 10 10 10 10 10 (c) Ascorbyl Glucose ide -3.4 1 Tranexami acid that -1.6 Hydroxypropyl T etrahydropyrant Riol -1.5 10 Niacinamide -0.37 5 Salicylic acid 2.2 0.2 Phenylethyl resin orcinol 3.07 |- 0.3 Quantity of penetration one of 0 0 0.2 19.7 77.9 0 active ingredient (%) [Tables 3] 36 Ingredients Log P Comp. Ex. 7 Comp. Comp. Comp. Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Comp. Ex. 11 Comp. Ex. 12 (d) Water qs 10 qs 10 qs 100 qs 100 qs 10 qs 10 0 0 0 0 Hydroxyethylcell 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 dare Ethylcellulose 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (a) Isopropyl lauroyl Sarcosinate 10 10 10 10 10 10 (c) Ascorbyl Glucose ide -3.4 1 Tranexami acid that -1.6 Hydroxypropyl T etrahydropyrantriol -1.5 10 Niacinamide -0.37 Salicylic acid 2.2 Phenylethyl resorb inol 3.07 5 0.2 0.3 Penetration quantity of 10 10 0.6 7.5 42.2 0 active ingredient (%)

[0345] [Evaluation]

[0346] (amount of penetration of the active ingredient)

[0347] The penetration test experiments were carried out in a Franz cell (PermeGear) with a Strat-M membrane (Merck, surface area: 1.77 cm²). This equipment It consisted of a donor portion and a recipient portion, with the StratM membrane sandwiched between the donor and recipient portions. The recipient portion with a predetermined volume was filled with a receiving solution (0.25% by weight) of Tween 80 / deionized water) maintained at a temperature of 32°C, which was agitated continuously with a small magnetic bar. Each of the compositions according to the Examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-12 were spread with a spatula on the membrane of the donor area with a concentration of 20 mg / cm². After 1 hour, 200 µl of receiving solution were removed from the receiving part, while providing 37 the same quantity of a new receiving solution to the receiving part in order to maintain the same penetration conditions. The removed receiving solution was analyzed by HPLC to determine the amount of active ingredient in the solution receptor. The percentage of active ingredient that crossed the membrane was calculated by dividing the detected quantity of active ingredient in the receiving solution by the quantity of active ingredient spread on the membrane.

[0348] The results are presented in the line < Quantity of ingredient penetration active >> in tables 1-3.

[0349] [Summary]

[0350] Tables 1-3 show that a composition comprising (a) at least one oil, (b) at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 atoms of carbon or more, (c) at least one skin-care active ingredient, and (d) water may improve skin penetration of (c) the active skin care ingredient.

[0351] Tables 1-3 also show that the use (b) of at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in a composition comprising (a) at least one oil, (c) at least one active ingredient of care of the skin, and (d) water can improve the penetration of (c) the active ingredient of the skincare product the skin.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (a) between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one oil, said oil being isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; (b) 20% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one diol having at least one carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms, said diol being pentylene glycol; (c) at least one selected skincare active ingredient in the group composed of ascorbyl glucoside, 3-ethyl ascorbic acid, tranexamic acid, tetrahydropyrantriol of hydroxypropyl, niacinamide, and a mixture thereof, And (d) water;

2. in which the weight ratio of the quantity of (b) diol having at minus a carbon chain comprising 3 or more carbon atoms in relation to the quantity (a) of oil is 4 or more Composition according to claim 1, wherein (c) the ingredient skincare active ingredient has a Log P value of 4 or less, of Preference for -4.5 to 4.0 and, even better, from -4.0 to 3.

5.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition has a turbidity of 120 NTU or less, preferably of

4.

5. 90 NTU or less, and even better, 60 NTU or less. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the composition is a cosmetic composition, of preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin and, better again, a cosmetic composition for skin care. A cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, including the application step of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4 to the keratinous substance.