KERATIN FIBER TREATMENT COMPOSITION
The keratin fiber treatment kit addresses the need for improved hair cosmetic products by using a reducing agent and neutralizer composition to enhance hair smoothness and frizz control, achieving effective shape transformation and fiber quality improvement.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022011431
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-08-12
- Filing Date
- 2022-11-03
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-14
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-11-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair cosmetic products lack effective alternatives for improving properties such as coating and smoothness, particularly in changing hair appearance, shape, and providing frizz control and improved fiber quality.
A keratin fiber treatment kit comprising a reducing agent composition with cationic cellulose-based polymers, silicones, reducers, and optionally fatty substances, and a neutralizer composition with cationic polymers, amino silicones, oxidants, and amphoteric surfactants, designed for permanent wave products.
The kit effectively changes hair appearance and shape, providing improved smoothness, frizz control, and enhanced fiber quality by using a combination of cationic cellulose-based polymers and silicones in a two-step process.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: KERATIN FIBER TREATMENT COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, particularly hair. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, particularly hair, using the composition of the present invention. CONTEXT
[0002] Cosmetic and personal care products intended for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are commercially available in various forms, for example, creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of their form, these products must offer certain benefits and attributes such as efficacy, cosmetic appeal, a desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Therefore, in order to meet consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of these products continually seek to reformulate and create new products with increased efficacy, while remaining stable and safe to use.
[0003] One area in which manufacturers are constantly seeking to improve is that of hair cosmetic products, such as those designed to change the appearance, shape, or configuration of hair, as well as to offer hair care benefits such as ease of styling, frizz control, volume reduction, and improved hair fiber quality. Examples of such hair cosmetic products include relaxers or smoothing products that can straighten or smooth curly or frizzy hair, including wavy hair. Other hair cosmetic products include perms and wave-forming compositions to give curls or shape to hair. These products can increase manageability and ease of styling and can be applied in a hair salon by a professional or at the individual consumer's home.
[0004] It is desirable to find alternatives to improve the properties of hair cosmetic products, such as a suitable amount of coating and good smoothness. Summary of the invention
[0005] An object of the present invention is therefore a keratin fiber processing kit comprising:
[0006] I) a reducing agent composition I), comprising the following components:
[0007] 1-1) a cationic cellulose-based polymer,
[0008] 1-2) a silicone,
[0009] 1-3) a reducer, and
[0010] 1-4) optionally a fatty substance; and
[0011] II) a neutralizer composition II), comprising
[0012] II-1) a cationic polymer, preferably a polyquatemium in liquid form,
[0013] 11-2) an amino silicone,
[0014] II-3) an oxidant, and
[0015] 11-4) optionally an amphoteric surfactant.
[0016] The device according to the present invention is particularly useful for a permanent wave product.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular keratin fibers on the surface of the body, in particular hair, using the necessary equipment according to the invention. METHODS OF IMPLEMENTING THE INVENTION
[0018] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising one" shall, unless otherwise stated, be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one". Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0019] Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with "comprising" or similar should be understood as encompassing a preferred embodiment defined with "consisting essentially of" and a preferred embodiment defined with "consisting of".
[0020] Apart from the operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", with a meaning classically known in the art, for example, to within 10% of the number indicated (e.g. "approximately 10%" means 9% - 11% and "approximately 2%" means 1.8% - 2.2%).
[0021] Throughout the description, including the claims, the "keratin fiber" according to the present invention is preferably hair.
[0022] In the application, unless otherwise stated, the content, parts and percentages are expressed in weights.
[0023] Other features and advantages of the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. Composition I), reducing agent composition
[0024] The reducing agent composition I) according to the invention comprises a cationic cellulose-based polymer, used as component 1-1).
[0025] Cationic cellulose-based polymer
[0026] Composition I) according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic cellulose-based polymers.
[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic cellulose-based polymer" means any non-silicone cellulose-based polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and preferably not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0028] According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" includes any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 sequences of glucose residues linked together by [3-1,4] bonds. The cellulose-based polymer may be associated, that is to say, it may carry in its structure at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.
[0029] Alternatively, the cellulose-based polymer may be non-associative, i.e., not carrying a C8-C3O fatty chain.
[0030] The cationic cellulose-based polymers that can be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 5000 and 5x106 and preferably between approximately 103 and 3x106.
[0031] Among cationic celluloses, special mention may be made of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups optionally modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer.
[0032] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in document FR 1 492597, and examples include the polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group and called Polyquaternium-10.
[0033] Cationic cellulose copolymers or celluloses grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, and examples include hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropylcelluloses, particularly those grafted with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more specifically, those sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the National Starch company. Examples include quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0034] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0035] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names:
[0036] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the Quatrisoft LM 200® product, sold by the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical;
[0037] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as
[0038] Crodacel QM® product;
[0039] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and
[0040] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cl8 alkyl), such as Crodacel QS® product, sold by the Croda company.
[0041] Other examples include hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-, Cl. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from Amerchol / Dow Chemical.
[0042] More particularly, the cationic cellulose-based polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryldimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name: Polyquaternium-67) and hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group and called Polyquaternium-10.
[0043] The cationic cellulose-based polymer may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition I).
[0044] Silicone
[0045] The necessary elements of the invention may include at least one silicone, used as component 1-2). The useful silicone may include amino silicone and in particular a silicone elastomer mixture.
[0046] Silicone elastomer mixture
[0047] Useful silicone elastomer mixtures according to various embodiments of the disclosure may comprise at least one crosslinked silicone polymer dispersed in at least one oil.
[0048] In some embodiments, at least one crosslinked silicone polymer may be selected from dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymers and dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymers. In other embodiments, the crosslinked silicone polymer may be modified by one or more groups selected from alkyl, polyether, or polyglycerin groups. For example, alkyl-modified crosslinked silicone polymers may be selected from vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymers, cetearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymers, and C30-C45 cetearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymers. Non-limiting examples of polyether-modified crosslinked silicone polymers include dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymers.Suitable alkyl and polyether modified silicone crosslinked polymers can be selected, for example, from PEG-10 / lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymers and PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymers. Polyglycerin modified silicone crosslinked polymers include, for example, dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymers and lauryl dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymers.
[0049] The crosslinked silicone polymer can be dispersed in at least one oil. In some embodiments, the oil can be selected from silicone oils, such as cyclic and linear organopolysiloxanes. Cyclic organopolysiloxanes may include, for example, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, and methylated cyclic organopolysiloxanes, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Non-limiting examples of linear organopolysiloxanes include low molecular weight dimethicones; high molecular weight dimethicones; alkyl derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, for example, cetyl dimethicone and lauryl trimethicone; aryl derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, for example, phenyl trimethicone; and hydroxylated derivatives of linear organopolysiloxanes, for example, dimethiconol. In other embodiments, the oil may be chosen from organic oils, such as mineral oil; linear and branched alkanes, for example, isododecane; triethylhexanoin; and squalane.
[0050] Preferably, each of the crosslinked silicone polymer and silicone oil is free of amine groups.
[0051] In one embodiment, at least one cross-linked silicone polymer may constitute from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer mixture, for example, from 10% to 20% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. At least one oil may constitute from 65% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone elastomer mixture, for example, from 80% to 90% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0052] Non-limiting examples of commercially available silicone elastomer blends include products sold under the KSG product line by Shin-Etsu, such as KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-210 and KSG-18; products sold under the VELVESIL product line by Momentive, such as VELVESIL 125 and VELVESIL DM; and products sold under the DOWSIL™ Liquid Satin Blend product line by Dow, such as DOWSIL™ 3901 Liquid Satin Blend and DOWSIL™ 3903 Liquid Satin Blend.
[0053] At least one silicone elastomer mixture may be present in the required amount in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, for example from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducer composition I), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0054] Composition (I) also contains a reducer. This reducer can be any currently known reducer for treating hair, preferably reducers conventionally used for perms.
[0055] Reducer
[0056] The reducing agents present in the invention can be any reducing agent useful for treating hair, preferably perms. It can be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent.
[0057] Non-thiol reducing agents can be selected from sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. Preferably, the non-thiol reducing agent can be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.
[0058] According to one embodiment, the reducing agent can be a thiol-based compound.
[0059] The necessary components of the invention may include at least one thiol-based compound selected from thioglycolic acid, thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, their derivatives, their salts and their mixtures.
[0060] At least one thiol-based compound of this disclosure may be used as a combination of two or more of them or with other thiol-based compounds selected from cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts and mixtures thereof.
[0061] At least one thiol-based compound of this disclosure may be a salt formed from alkali metal sulfites, alkaline earth metal sulfites, ammonium or phosphines, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] In some embodiments, the thiol-based compound used in the composition of the invention is thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid or a salt thereof, for example, an ammonium, for example ammonium thioglycolate.
[0063] At least one thiol-based compound may be present in the required amount in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, or preferably from 3% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0064] In certain embodiments, at least one thiol-based compound is selected from thiolactic acid and is used in the composition of the present invention in an amount of approximately 1%, 1.25%, 1.5%, 1.75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, or approximately 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6.75%, 6.25%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75%, 7%, 7.25%, 7.5%, 7.75%, 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 11%, 11.5% %, 12%, 13% or 14%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] Alkaline agent
[0066] According to one embodiment, the reducing composition (I) contains an alkali agent. This alkali agent can be selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide-based compounds and mixtures thereof, in particular from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Organic amines can be selected from amino-2-methyl-l-propanol (or aminomethylpropanol), ethylamines, ethyleneamines, alkanolamines, cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms in the ring, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] Organic amines can be chosen from those having a pKb at 25 °C less than 12, such as less than 10 or less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of greatest basicity.
[0069] Organic amines can be selected from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.
[0070] Organic amines may be selected from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkylamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.
[0071] Among the alkanolamine-type compounds that may be mentioned are, but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0072] Other examples include, but are not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
[0073] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from among the amino acids.
[0074] By way of non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen, for example, from among carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.
[0075] Amino acids that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, omithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0076] Furthermore, by way of non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be selected from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. These basic amino acids may be selected from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.
[0077] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. Besides histidine, which has already been mentioned in the Amino acids, we can mention in a non-limiting way pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
[0078] In some embodiments, the organic amines are selected from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in this disclosure include, but are not limited to: camosine, anserine, and baleine.
[0079] In some embodiments, the organic amines are selected from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, in addition to arginine which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.
[0080] The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that can be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate and their derivatives.
[0081] Hydroxide-based compounds are selected from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic compounds and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples include ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, cesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidiidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
[0082] At least one alkali agent may be selected from at least one organic amine, such as at least one alkanolamine. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (aminomethyl propanol), ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof. Ethanolamine is an even more particularly preferred alkanolamine.
[0083] According to at least one embodiment, the alkaline agent is selected from aminomethylpropanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanolamine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl / tallowamine, lysine, omithine, arginine, the monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] According to another preferred embodiment, the alkaline agent at least is chosen from aminomethylpropanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
[0085] The alkali agent may be present in the required amount in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 4.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing agent composition I), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0086] Fatty substance
[0087] The reducer composition I) according to the invention may optionally include a cosmetically acceptable fatty substance.
[0088] By "fatty substance" is meant organic compounds that are insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1%, and even more preferably 0.1%). They may preferably have in their structure a chain of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0089] The fatty substances are specially chosen from among lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular synthetic mineral, vegetable, animal or non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
[0090] In the context of the invention, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is / are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0091] As regards lower alkanes, these alkanes comprise from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, alkanes may be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
[0092] Examples of non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include:
[0093] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
[0094] -hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or synthetic origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, alternatively, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, bone marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those marketed by Stéarinerie Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
[0095] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms and of origin mineral or synthetic, such as liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®;
[0096] - fluorinated oils, for example perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, marketed under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl marketed under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluorofluorofluorofluorofluoromorpholine marketed under the name PF 5052® by 3M.
[0097] The fatty alcohols that can be used in the composition of the invention are not oxyalkylated. They are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, and linoleyl alcohol.
[0098] The useful esters are the esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being, more particularly, greater than or equal to 10.
[0099] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned, without limitation: dihydroabietyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, a Ci2-Ci5 alkyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isocetyl octanoate; isocedyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyle stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle, stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; Dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0100] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0101] The following may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; glycol distearates; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
[0102] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids and preferably of C2-C22-H fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0103] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0104] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0105] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.
[0106] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures of the latter such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.
[0107] It is particularly preferred to use monoesters and diesters, and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0108] Advantageously, the content of fat(s) ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, or from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (I). Composition II), neutralizer composition
[0109] The neutralizing composition comprises at least one oxidant. The oxidants are of a commonly used type and include, for example, hydrogen peroxide, an alkali metal bromate, persalt, a polythionate, or a mixture of alkali metal bromate and persalt. The concentration of hydrogen peroxide may vary from 1 to 20 volumes, preferably from 1 to 10 volumes, the concentration of alkali metal bromate may vary from 1% to 12% by weight, and the concentration of salt may vary from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizing composition (II). The pH of the neutralizing composition is generally between 2 and 10.
[0110] In the context of the invention, alkali metal bromate can preferably be used in a preferred amount of 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II).
[0111] The neutralizer composition II) according to the invention preferably comprises a polyquaternium in liquid form, i.e., liquid polyquaternium. However, the liquid polyquaternium used for composition II) is preferably different from the (poly)quaternium compound selected from Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-67 used for composition I).
[0112] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid" may be a liquid not in solid or gaseous phase, including those having a very high viscosity, for example, those generally considered "semi-solids", and also including dispersion systems (comprising an emulsion) containing a certain solid content.
[0113] It is known that a cationic polymer is generally added to a hair care product, particularly a perming product. For a perming product, the cationic polymer may be added to the reducing agent or the neutralizing agent, or both; whereas generally, the cationic polymer is more often added to the reducing agent. However, for the purposes of the present invention, one believes that adding a cationic polymer to the neutralizer composition is preferable.
[0114] Cationic polymers
[0115] The cationic polymers of this disclosure contain at least one carboxyl group.
[0116] The cationic polymer may have a negative charge but remains overall cationic, may be an amphoteric polymer which can carry a cationic charge, or may be a betaine polymer which remains amphoteric at any pH.
[0117] Liquid polyquaternium 11-1 may be polymers resulting from the homogenization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers selected from: (i) at least one nonionic monomer such as (Meth)Acrylamide, Alkyl (Meth)Acrylate Ester, Vinyl Pyrrolidone, Vinyl Imidazole; (ii) at least one cationic monomer such as ethyltrimonium (alkyl)(meth)acrylamide, ethyltrimonium (alkyl) (meth)acrylate ester, vinylimidazoline, dimethylaminopropyl (alkyl) (meth)acrylamide, methacrylamidopropyltriethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), diallyl dimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC); (iii) at least one (alkyl)acrylic acid; (iv) at least one amphoteric monomer such as a zwitterionic carboxybetaine monomer.
[0118] Appropriate examples of these liquid polyquaterniums are: diallyidimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22); the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylic acid and / or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47); the acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER OR MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-39);an ampholytic terpolymer composed of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-53); Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7; Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquaternium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquaternium-89; ; Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98, Polyquaternium-104; Polyquaternium-111; Polyquaternium-112, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Among other things, polyquaternium compounds are particularly preferable within the meaning of the present invention when obtained from acrylamide or acrylic acid monomers, preferably from acrylamide monomers.
[0120] Polyquaternium in liquid form
[0121] Although conventional cationic polymers can be used in the composition of neutralizing agent II), it is estimated, without being limited to any known theory, that polyquaternium in liquid form may be particularly beneficial for use in the composition of neutralizing agent II), as component II-1).
[0122] By way of example, Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7 can be specifically mentioned as liquid polyquaternium useful for the present invention where the polyquaterniums are in aqueous form.
[0123] Component II-l) is present in the compositions according to the disclosure in quantities ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and in some embodiments from 0.01% to 15% by weight, and in some other embodiments from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total quantity of the neutralizer composition II).
[0124] Amino silicone
[0125] The neutralizer composition II) comprises amino silicone, preferably non-volatile amino silicone oils useful as component 11-2).
[0126] According to one embodiment of the invention, the amino silicone useful as component 11-2) can also be used for the silicone of component 1-2).
[0127] For the purposes of the invention, the terms “silicone” and “silicone oil” may be used interchangeably.
[0128] The non-volatile amino silicone oil used as component 11-2) may preferably be phenyl-free, i.e., a non-phenyl silicone. The term "non-phenyl" refers to a compound not containing phenyl substituents.
[0129] Silicone is generally used as an oil for various cosmetic purposes. An amino silicone is of particular interest, among others. The term "amino silicone" refers to any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group (i.e. a quaternized group).
[0130] A silicone may carry the amine group on the backbone chain of the molecule, called amino-terminal silicone, or carry the amine group on the dangling chain, called amino-grafted silicone.
[0131] Amino silicones are described, for example, in documents US2011 / 0155163 and US2011 / 155164.
[0132] Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, quaternium-22 silicone, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, bis-isobutyl / PEG / PPG-20 / 35 / amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40 / PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl / PEG / PPG-20 / 35 / amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG / PPG-7 / 3 aminopropyl dimethicone, quaternium-22 silicone, bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl Dimethicone, PEG-7 amodimethicone, quaternium-8 silicone, Visamino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, polysilicone-19, quaternium-18 silicone, and their derivatives. The useful mixture may include, in particular, an emulsion of dimethicone and amodimethicone.
[0133] Preferably, the aminosilicone is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having a D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
[0134] - a silicone mixture comprising (i) one or more dialkylpolysiloxane terminated(s) by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
[0135] - a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, the mixture of emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
[0136] -water.
[0137] Such a silicone is known by the INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3.
[0138] Advantageously, component 11-2) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the neutralizer composition II). Surfactant
[0139] The compositions according to the present invention may optionally include at least one surfactant, for example, an amphoteric, non-ionic surfactant, or a mixture of these, in particular at least one non-ionic surfactant, and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0140] Non-ionic surfactant
[0141] According to one embodiment of the invention, the necessary according to the present invention may optionally include at least one non-ionic surfactant, to be used as a component in the reducing composition I) and / or the neutralizing composition II).
[0142] Examples of useful nonionic surfactants may include esters of (poly)alcohols and saturated or unsaturated fatty acids containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and, better still, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, namely derivatives containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated motifs, such as glyceryl esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylated derivatives; sugar (sucrose, glucose, or alkylglucose) esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their oxyalkylated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
[0143] According to the invention, the esters useful for component C) may preferably comprise 21 carbon atoms or more. In other words, with regard to fatty acid esters, those comprising 20 carbon atoms or fewer, for example, C[2-C20> fatty acid esters, can be used as component B); whereas fatty acid esters comprising 21 carbon atoms or more are useful as component C).
[0144] Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, or glyceryl ricinoleate), and mixtures thereof.
[0145] Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids which may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) and more particularly polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 OE (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 OE (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
[0146] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel® 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin® by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE); or a mixture containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.
[0147] Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for example methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for example methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more particularly methylglucoside and oleic acid diester (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the ester mixture of methylglucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and disester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate® SS by the company Amerchol, and their mixtures.
[0148] Examples of oxyethyl ethers of a fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose that may be mentioned include oxyethyl ethers of a fatty acid and methylglucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ether of methyl glucose and stearic acid diester containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam® E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL; polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Grillocose® PSE-20 by the company Goldmidt, and mixtures thereof.
[0149] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
[0150] Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and particularly from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and, preferably, from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA names Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] The non-ionic surfactant may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight, such as 0.15% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition I) or the total weight of the neutralizing composition II).
[0152] Amphoteric surfactant
[0153] According to one embodiment of the invention, the necessary according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant, which may also be called a zwitterionic surfactant, in the reducing composition I) and / or the neutralizing composition II), preferably in the neutralizing composition II).
[0154] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0155] In particular, we can mention (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines and (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.
[0156] Among the (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, examples include behenylbetaine, cetylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, and decylbetaine. Among the alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example, the products sold by Rhodia under the trade name Mirataine® BB / FLA.
[0157] The at least one amphoteric surfactant, if present, may be present in an amount of between 0.5% and 20% by weight, for example from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition I) or the total weight of the neutralizing composition II). Solvent
[0158] The reducing composition I) or the neutralizing composition II) according to the invention may each advantageously comprise one or more solvent(s), for example, water and / or an organic solvent.
[0159] Water
[0160] The reducing agent composition I) or the neutralizing agent composition II) according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various quantities. For example, water is used in a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition. The water content in the low-viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, or from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0161] Organic solvent
[0162] The reducing agent composition I) or the neutralizing agent composition II) according to the invention may also include one or more organic solvents, preferably water-soluble organic solvents (solubility greater than or equal to 5% in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0163] Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for example monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers, for example monomethyl ether of propylene glycol; and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, in particular C1-C4 alkyl ethers, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, alone or in mixtures.
[0164] Organic solvents, when present, may represent between 0% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition I) or the neutralizing composition II) according to the invention, and preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, or between 0.3% and 5% by weight. According to one embodiment of the present invention, no alcohol, in particular polyol, is intentionally added to the composition of the invention as an organic solvent. For example, the reducing composition I) or the neutralizing composition II) according to the present invention may be free of any polyol. Additional additives
[0165] According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to keratin fibers, such as skin or hair. In accordance with these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as active ingredients, humectants, fatty substances, agents to prevent hair loss and / or to promote hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, perfumes, and preservatives.
[0166] A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients can be found in the publication of US patent application no. 2004 / 0170586.
[0167] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional additives and / or their quantity are selected in such a way that the advantageous properties of the reducing composition I) or the neutralizing composition II) according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.
[0168] These substances can be selected in various ways by those skilled in the art to prepare a composition that has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. In particular, the additives, if used, and their quantities are specifically determined according to the specific products / applications, for example lotion, leave-in conditioner, perm, cream, rinse-out conditioner, emulsion, and the like.
[0169] These additives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and such as from 0.1% to 30% by weight (if present), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Method and use
[0170] The kit according to the present invention can generally be prepared based on the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. However, it is understood that a person skilled in the art may choose the preparation method, based on their general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example their solubility in the vehicle, and the intended application of the compositions or the kit.
[0171] According to one embodiment, the device according to the present invention can be used to treat keratin fibers, in particular hair. This use can be manifested as a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the step of applying the composition of the invention to said keratin fibers.
[0172] The device according to the present invention is preferably useful for producing a perm product. For the perm product, the reducing composition I) is first applied to the hair, optionally cleaned with shampoo or a similar product, and then the neutralizing composition II) is applied.
[0173] Accordingly, the reducing composition I) and the neutralizing composition II) of the necessary according to the present invention can preferably be placed in two chambers separate from each other, for example, for the permanent product.
[0174] The invention will be illustrated in more detail by the following examples, which set out particularly advantageous embodiments.
[0175] Although the numerical ranges and parameters that define the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values stated in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without, however, limiting its scope. EXAMPLES
[0176] The quantities / concentrations of the ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below have been expressed as % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition / formula.
[0177] The principal raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are indicated below. Materials not specified here were each commercially available.
[0178] [Tables] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur CETEARETH-20 SP BRU CS20-[LO] M BAL-PA-(SG) CRODA MINERAL OIL / PARAFFI NUM LIQUIDUM COSMETIC GRADE WHITE OIL 15 (C-15-L01) ZHEJIANG CHXIN OIL TECHNOLOGY CETEARYL ALCOHOL (et) CETETH-10 PHOSPHATE SP CRODAFOS CES MB AL-[JQ]-PA-(MH) CRODA CETEARYL ALCOHOL LANETTE 0 OR BASF ETHANOLAMINE MONOETHANOLAMIN E HUNTSMAN (INDOR AMA) AMMONIUM THIOGLYCO LATE AMMONIUM THIOGL YCOLATE 71% (60% T GA) EVANS CHEMETICS EDTA EDTA-ACID SHIJIAZHUANG JA CKCHEM POLYQUATERNIUM-67 SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X DOW DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSP OLYMER DOWSIL 3903 LIQUID SATIN BLEND DOW BIS-AMINOPROPYL DIM ETHICONE X-22-9678B SHIN ETSU POLYQUATERNIUM-10 UCARE EXTREME P OLYMER DOW TRISODIUM PHOSPHATE PRAYPHOS TSP12 FG PRAYON SODIUM BROMATE SODIUM BROMATE JIANGSU WORLDCH EMICAL INDUSTRY SODIUM PHOSPHATE NI 1-03 MONOSODIU M PHOSPHATE 2-HYD RATE CRYST. BUDENHEIM COCO-BETAINE DEHYTON AB 30 BASF WATER / AQUA DEIONIZED WATER ROBIOLOGICALLY CLEAN MIC PLANT L'OREAL CITRIC ACID CITRIC ACID MON OHYDRATE GRANUL AR BELGIAN CITRIC DIMETHICONE (and) AMOD IMETHICONE (and) TRIDE CETH-10 (and) PEG-100 ST EARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3 BELSIL DADM 5050E WACKER POLYQUATERNIUM-7 MERQUAT 550PR P OLYMER NALCO (LUBRIZOL) QUATERNIUM-87 VARISOFT W 575 PG N EVONIK GOLDSCHM IDT
[0179] Example A
[0180] The reducing agent composition and the neutralizing agent composition comprising the ingredients listed in Tables 2 and 3, respectively, were formulated:
[0181] [Table 2] reducing agent composition Composants R-EX1 R-EX2 R-EX3 R-CE1 R-CE2 R-CE3 CETEARETH-20 3 3 3 3 3 3 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFI NUM LIQUIDUM 3 3 3 3 3 3 CETEARYL ALCOHOL ( et) CETETH-10 PHOSPH ATE 5 5 5 5 5 5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 7 7 7 7 7 ETHANOLAMINE 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 AMMONIUM THIOGL YCOLATE 8,5 8,5 8,5 8,5 8,5 8,5 EDTA 0,092 0,092 0,092 0,092 0,092 0,092 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0,5 0,5 0,5 - POLYQUATERNIUM-10 - - 0,5 - - QUATERNIUM-87 - - - 1,3 - - DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSP OLYMER 1 - 1 - - 1 BIS-AMINOPROPYL DIM ETHICONE - 1 - - - - EAU / AQUA Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100
[0182] [Tableau 3] composition de neutralisant N-EX1 N-EX2 N-EX3 N-CE1 N-CE2 N-CE3 TRISODIUM PHOSPHATE 0.5 SODIUM BROMATE 6 6 6 6 6 6 SODIUM PHOSPHATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 COCO-BETAINE 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 2.15 CITRIC ACID 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 CATIONIC POLYMER (POLYQUATERNIUM-7) 0.8 8 1.2 - 8 - AMINOSILICONE * 6 1.8 3 - - 4.8 WATER / AQUA Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs for 100
[0183] * DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3,
[0184] The compositions listed above were prepared according to a manufacturing process known in the field.
[0185] Compositions have been obtained for the permanent product according to the present invention. Example B
[0186] The compositions of Ex.l were evaluated according to the following steps:
[0187] The detailed procedure for preparing the above examples is as follows:
[0188] 1) all materials have been supplied;
[0189] 2) compositions conforming to the examples have been prepared;
[0190] 3) strands of hair were washed;
[0191] 4). The reducers were respectively applied to strands of hair and have were left for 15 minutes;
[0192] 5). The reducers were respectively rinsed with tap water;
[0193] 6). The strands of hair were respectively wound onto the shaft and were wrapped with clips on the outside, using the rubber band to secure the clip;
[0194] 7). The hair strands were respectively heated for 10 min at 80 °C and 15 minutes at 120°C;
[0195] 8). The hair strands were respectively cooled to room temperature and the clips were removed;
[0196] 9). The neutralizing compositions were respectively applied to the hair and left for 10 minutes;
[0197] 10). The neutralizing compositions were respectively rinsed with water from the tap and dried with a towel;
[0198] then for each strand of hair:
[0199] 11). The hair strands were washed with a cleansing shampoo;
[0200] 12). then a sensory evaluation was subsequently carried out by 6 hairdressers for each strand of hair; and
[0201] 13). The sensory scores of the 6 hairdressers were collected and the average scores were were given below.
[0202] [Table 4] Mean sensory score Condition Score (0-5), 0-worst cosmeticity and 5-best cosmeticity R-EX1 + N-EX1 5 R-EX2 + N-EX1 3.5 R-EX3 + N-EX1 4.5 R-CE1 + N-EX1 2 R-CE2 + N-EX1 2.2 R-CE3 + N-EX1 2.5 R-EX2 + N-EX2 2.8 R-EX3 + N-EX3 3.5 R-CE1 + N-CE1 0 R-CE2 + N-CE2 1 R-CE3 + N-CE3 2
Claims
Demands
1. Keratin fiber processing necessary, comprising: I) a reducing composition I), comprising: 1-1) a cationic cellulose-based polymer, 1-2) a silicone, selected from dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymers and dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymers, 1-3) a reducing agent, and 1-4) optionally a fatty substance; and II) a neutralizing composition II), comprising II-1) a cationic polymer, II-2) an amino silicone, II-3) an oxidizing agent, and II-4) optionally an amphoteric surfactant.
2. Necessary according to claim 1, wherein the cationic cellulose-based polymer is Polyquatemium-67 and / or Polyquatemium-10.
3. Necessary according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising, in the composition of reducer I) an alkali agent selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide-based compounds, and mixtures thereof, in particular from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-didimethylamino-l,2-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
4. Necessary according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the reducing agent is a thiol-based compound selected from thioglycolic acid, thioglycerol, thiolactic acid, their derivatives, salts and mixtures thereof.
5. Necessary according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a fatty substance, preferably selected from the group consisting of lower alkanes, alcohols
6.
7.
8.
9. fats, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular synthetic mineral, vegetable, animal or non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes and silicones. Necessary according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polymer of component II-1) is a polyquaternium acrylamide, preferably in liquid form, preferably selected from Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7 in water.Necessary according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicone of component II-2) is selected from the group consisting of amodimethicone, quaternium-22 silicone, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, bis-isobutyl / PEG / PPG-20 / 35 / amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40 / PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl / PEG / PPG-20 / 35 / amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG / PPG-7 / 3 aminopropyl dimethicone, quaternium-22 silicone, bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, PEG-7 amodimethicone, quaternium-8 silicone, visamino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, polysilicone-19, quaternium-18 silicone, and mixtures thereof. Necessary according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising, in the composition of reducer I) and / or in the composition of neutralizer II), a non-ionic surfactant. Use of the necessary ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in the preparation of a keratin fiber treatment product, in particular for hair perms.