Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, at least two different cationic surfactants and silicones, and cosmetic processing method

A cosmetic composition with a balanced ratio of cationic surfactants and silicones addresses the limitations of high-silicone hair care products by providing long-lasting conditioning and repair benefits without heaviness, enhancing hair manageability and protection.

FR3138867B1Active Publication Date: 2026-02-13LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022008393
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-08-19
Publication Date
2026-02-13
Estimated Expiration
2042-08-19

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair care compositions with high levels of silicones provide insufficient and short-lasting cosmetic benefits, leading to issues like heaviness and rapid diminishment of effects, while also being unfavorably perceived by consumers.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising a specific ratio of at least two different cationic surfactants, anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, and silicones, with a weight ratio of cationic surfactants to silicones greater than or equal to 7, offering long-lasting conditioning and repair benefits without weighing down the hair.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides pronounced conditioning and repair effects that last at least 24 hours, maintaining a feeling of lightness and cleanliness, with improved detangling, smoothness, suppleness, and protection against breakage, using lower silicone content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants; at least two different cationic surfactants; and one or more silicones, with a specific weight ratio between the total cationic surfactant content and the total silicone content. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, at least two different cationic surfactants and silicones, and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least two cationic surfactants different from each other, one or more anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, and one or more silicones, with a particular weight ratio between the cationic surfactants and the silicones.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials using said composition.

[0003] Hair is sensitive to many types of aggression and can be weakened and damaged to varying degrees by the external environment, in particular by the action of atmospheric agents such as light, air pollution and weathering, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing.

[0004] The properties of damaged hair are then degraded and various manifestations of damage can be observed, such as difficulties in detangling and styling the hair, lack of softness of the hair, hair which can eventually become dry, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the tips.

[0005] To remedy these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care cosmetic compositions designed to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair care compositions, intended for regular application to the hair, can be, for example, shampoos, conditioners, masks, or serums, and can be in the form of gels, hair lotions, and creams of varying thicknesses. These compositions generally rely on the use of high levels of silicones and offer benefits that are rarely sufficient for the most damaged hair and whose effects are only noticeable at the time of application and in the few hours that follow.

[0006] Although there are many hair repair formulas, they generally do not provide hair with entirely satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties. Indeed, the benefits provided, such as detangling, smoothness, shine, suppleness, and split end repair, are not always sufficient for the hair The most sensitive individuals experience these effects, or they are accompanied by a feeling of heaviness. Moreover, these benefits diminish rapidly over time.

[0007] In addition, the use of high levels of silicone may be perceived unfavorably by consumers.

[0008] The present invention therefore aims to provide cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratinous materials, particularly for hair conditioning. This composition comprises low levels of silicone, relative to the content of cationic surfactant-type conditioning agents. The composition is effective in providing cosmetic properties to the hair, both at the time of application and over time. Furthermore, the composition is characterized by pronounced conditioning and repair benefits while maintaining a feeling of lightness and cleanliness.

[0009] The invention therefore aims in particular to offer a composition capable of providing significant care and lightness properties from the moment of application until the next shampoo, using low levels of silicones.

[0010] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants,

[0011] - at least two cationic surfactants different from each other, and

[0012] - one or more silicones,

[0013] the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone(s) being greater than or equal to 7.

[0014] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention rinses easily, and after application gives a good level of care, as well as a clean feel, without weighing down, to the hair; these effects are lasting for at least 24 hours and can persist after shampooing.

[0015] The observed cosmetic performance, in particular of easier detangling, superior lasting smoothness to the touch, increased suppleness, improved care / nutrition, coating quality, repair in particular of the ends, protection against breakage, and prevention of frizz, can advantageously be obtained with a low silicone content, in particular a lower content than the content usually used.

[0016] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included. Cationic surfactants

[0017] The composition comprises at least two cationic surfactants, different from each other. It may comprise more than two cationic surfactants, for example at least three cationic surfactants, different from each other.

[0018] The two cationic surfactants are different from each other but may belong to the same chemical family, in particular to one of the families defined below and / or be structurally similar.

[0019] The cationic surfactants that can be used according to the present invention are non-siliconized, that is to say, they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0020] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0021] The cationic surfactants that may be used may advantageously be chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0022] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0023] - X- is an anion, in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Cl-C4) sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl sulfonates

[0024] - the groups RI to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the RI to R4 groups designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

[0025] The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from the C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, C2-C6 alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl, C1-C6 alkyl(C12-C22)acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0026] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraal-kylammonium salts such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts are preferred, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to

[0027]

[0028]

[0029]

[0030]

[0031]

[0032] 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; as well as the salts of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. In particular, the chloride, bromide or methosulfate salts of these compounds are preferred. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): r -u (iii) "8 ( xCHs0Hf^n(^ X 1 X \ C- G ' in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively. Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular those of formula (IV): in which R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more atoms of oxygen,

[0033] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Riia, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0034] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0035] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (CH „Oî;—FU (V) O " | in which:

[0036] R15 is selected from among the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl or di- groups hydroxyalkyls in Ci-C6;

[0037] Rie is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group; the R2o groups which are Ci-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0038] Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0039] R17, R[9 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from among the hydrocarbon groups in C7-C2i, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0040] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0041] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0042] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0043] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0044] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0045] The alkyl groups R[5] can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5] designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0046] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0047] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0048] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0049] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2B, identical or different, are chosen from among the Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from the Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0050] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0051] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0052] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0053] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0054] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0055] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0056] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride, bromide, or methosulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0057] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with C10-C3O fatty acids or on mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin of glycol or glycerol.

[0058] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0060] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0061] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0062] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0063] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium salts are preferred, in particular chloride, bromide or methosulfate.

[0064] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0065] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0066] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0067] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0068] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from the (C10-C30)alkylamido(C10-C8)alkyl(di)(C10-C6)alkyl amines and their salts, better from the (C14-C26)alkylamido(C10-C6)alkyl(di)(C10-C4)alkyl amines and their salts, preferably from the (C16-C24)alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl(di)(C10-C2)alkyl amines and their salts; more preferably still from the (C18-C22)alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl(di)(C10-C2)alkyl amine and their salts.

[0071] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0072] Examples of fatty amidoamines that may be used include, alone or in mixtures: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, particularly that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, and olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their salts.

[0073] Preferably, fatty amidoamines are selected from, alone or in mixtures, as well as their salts,

[0074] - brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula RC(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2

[0075] wherein RC(O) is a fatty acid derived from brassica campestris seed oil (rapeseed oil), with a majority of behenyl group (C22);

[0076] - stearamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH3-(CH2)16-C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2;

[0077] - behenamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH3-(CH2)20-C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2;

[0078] - oleamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0079] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant selected from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) or (V) above, and mixtures thereof; even better from those of formula (V) above.

[0080] Preferably, the composition comprises at least two cationic surfactants both chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better, at least one of the cationic surfactants being chosen from those of formula (V) above, and at least one other of the cationic surfactants being chosen from those of formula (II) and / or (VI) above.

[0081] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0082] Even better, the composition includes:

[0083] (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0084] (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from:

[0085] (iia) tetraalkylammonium salts, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dice-tyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, steara- midopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts; preferably the chloride, bromide, or methylsulfate salts of these compounds; and / or

[0086] (iib) the amidoamines of formula (VI) RCONHR”N(R')2 as defined above.

[0087] Preferably, the composition comprises:

[0088] (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0089] (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from tetraalkyl-lammonium salts, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethyl-lammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts; preferably chloride, bromide, or methylsulfate salts of these compounds.

[0090] Even better, the composition includes:

[0091] - one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, bromide or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; and

[0092] - one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts, in particular chloride, bromide or methosulfate of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.

[0093] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises cationic surfactants in a total quantity ranging from 0.2 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] In particular, when the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxy- thylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms, it advantageously comprises them in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] When the composition includes:

[0096] (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and

[0097] (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from tetraalkyl-lammonium salts, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts; preferably the chloride, bromide, or methylsulfate salts of these compounds,

[0098] it advantageously comprises the surfactant(s) (i) in a total quantity of 0.1 to 5% by weight, better 0.2 to 4% by weight, even better 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the surfactant(s) (ii) in a total quantity of 0.1 to 5% by weight, better 0.2 to 4% by weight, even better 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Even better, when the composition includes:

[0100] - one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts, in particular chloride, bromide or methosulfate of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof; and

[0101] - one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts, in particular chloride, bromide or methosulfate of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof;

[0102] it advantageously comprises the surfactant(s) selected from di-palmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and

[0103] the surfactant(s) selected from the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distea-ryldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity of 0.1 to 5% by weight, better 0.2 to 4% by weight, even better 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants

[0104] The cosmetic composition according to the invention also includes one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.

[0105] The composition may thus include one or more anionic surfactants, or one or more amphoteric surfactants, or one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0106] Anionic surfactant is understood to be a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0107] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0108] Anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.

[0109] It is understood in this description that:

[0110] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one car- function boxyl or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ), and may possibly further include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0111] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; and

[0112] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0113] The anionic carboxylic surfactants that may be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0114] They may be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkylethercarboxylic acids, C6-30 alkyl(aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0115] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and poly-glycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

[0116] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, special mention may be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

[0117] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0118] Ri -(OC2H4)n -OCH2COOA (1)

[0119] in which:

[0120] - Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2 CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably R| is a C8-C20 alkyl radical, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl radical;

[0121] - n' is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, of preference from 2 to 10,

[0122] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethamine residue Nolamine.

[0123] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different R groups.

[0124] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0125] - Rr designates a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular in C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0126] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0127] - n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0128] More preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Rr designates a C12-C14 alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0129] Among the commercial products, the products sold by the company KAO under the following names may preferably be used:

[0130] AKYPO® NP 70 (Ri=nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

[0131] AKYPO® NP 40 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0132] AKYPO®OP 40 (R1=octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0133] AKYPO® OP 80 (R1=octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

[0134] AKYPO® OP 190 (R1=octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

[0135] AKYPO® RLM 38 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=H)

[0136] AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

[0137] AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

[0138] AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0139] AKYPO® RLM 100 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=10, A=H)

[0140] AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

[0141] AKYPO® RLM 130 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=13, A=H)

[0142] AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

[0143] or by the company SANDOZ under the names:

[0144] SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R1= Cn alkyl, n=6, A=H)

[0145] SANDOPAN DTC (Ri=Cn alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

[0146] SANDOPAN LS 24 (R1=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

[0147] SANDOPAN JA 36 (Ri=Cn alkyl, n=18, A=H),

[0148] and more specifically, the products sold under the following names:

[0149] AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO® RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

[0150] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0151] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0152] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitic acid- toylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0153] - acyllactylates, particularly in C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0154] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0155] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20) ether- boxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0156] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0157] in particular in acidic form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0158] Preferably, polyoxyalkylened alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

[0159] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used contain at minus a sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamide-sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0160] the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0161] these compounds being polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0162] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0163] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

[0164] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly lauryl- sulfosuccinates.

[0165] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0166] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0167] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0168] The anionic sulfate surfactants that may be used have at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0169] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0170] the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0171] these compounds being polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0172] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0173] - alkyl sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

[0174] - alkyl ether sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preference of 1 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0175] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, of ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0176] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0177] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0178] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0179] Preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures,

[0180] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,

[0181] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, particularly C12-C20; comprising preference of 1 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0182] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0183] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

[0184] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0185] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0186] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0187] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0188] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particularly those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, especially ethylene;

[0189] - acylglutamates in C6-C24, in particular in C12-C20;

[0190] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0191] in particular in acidic form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0192] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0193] The composition according to the invention may also be free (0%) of surfactants sulfated (sulfate-free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture,

[0194] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0195] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

[0196] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0197] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0198] - acylsarcosinates in C6-C24, in particular in C12-C20;

[0199] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0200] in particular in acidic form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0201] When present, the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity less than or equal to 1% by weight, better less (strictly) than 1% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The amphoteric surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are non-siliconized.

[0203] An amphoteric surfactant is understood to be a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.

[0204] In particular, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines may be cited alone or in mixtures.

[0205] They may also be selected from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0206] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, possibly quantified and usable, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C):

[0207] (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+,

[0208] in which:

[0209] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0210] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0211] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0212] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0213] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0214] (B) Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B')

[0215] in which:

[0216] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0217] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0218] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0219] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0220] - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0221] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0222] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodi-propionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0223] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0224] (C) Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n -N(Rd)(Re)

[0225] in which:

[0226] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0227] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical droxyalkyl in Ci to C4;

[0228] - Z'' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0229] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0230] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0231] Among amphoteric surfactants, preferred are alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as coca-midopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C ) such as salts, in particular sodium salt, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0232] Preferably, amphoteric surfactants are selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] When present, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity less than or equal to 1% by weight, better less (strictly) than 1% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] Preferably, the composition comprises a total surfactant content selected from anionic and amphoteric surfactant(s) ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0235] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from among amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amine silicones are selected from among non-volatile liquid silicones.

[0237] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0238] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.

[0239] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from

[0240] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0241] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). On can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0242] - dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers with structure chemical:

[0243] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0244] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0245] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decametethyltetrasiloxane.

[0246] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0247] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), poly-diarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0248] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0249] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0250] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising even currently alkyl groups in C6-C24 such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0251] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0252] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0253] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hy- function droxyalkyl;

[0254] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.

[0255] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0256] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, the principal examples of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes include the following commercial products:

[0257] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® commercial oils specialized by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0258] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0259] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0260] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0261] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.

[0262] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0263] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0264] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.

[0265] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0266] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:

[0267] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA;

[0268] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0269] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0270] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;

[0271] - BAYER's PN and PH series silicones, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products

[0272] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0273] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups (CTFA: dimethicone), in particular liquid and non-volatile.

[0274] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0275] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0276] The amine silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the amine silicones are chosen from among non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

[0277] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0278] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0279] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0280] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II):

[0281] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0282] in which:

[0283] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in C1-C8, for example methyl or alkoxy in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0284] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0285] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0286] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quatemized, chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+ H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0287] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be selected from:

[0288] (i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones conforming to formula (III): -J (m)

[0289] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0290] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0291] in which:

[0292] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0293] - Ri, R2, R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0294] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0295] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0296] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0297] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0298] in which:

[0299] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0300] - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0301] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0302] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0303] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0304] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulations. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0305] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, microemulsions of Aminated silicone of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

[0306] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0307] in which:

[0308] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by specific from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0309] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0310] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol. One silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0311] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0312] in which:

[0313] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by specific from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0314] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0315] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g / mol. One silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0316] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0317] in which:

[0318] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0319] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0320] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0321] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0322] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0323] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)

[0324] in which:

[0325] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0326] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0327] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical hy monovalent drocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0328] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0329] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.

[0330] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0331] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0332] in which:

[0333] - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0334] - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0335] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0336] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0337] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0338] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0339] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0340] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else [0341 ] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0342] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0343] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0344] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0345] - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0346] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0347] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-C 12, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0348] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0349] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0350] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0351] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): W r (0¾ NH, (XI)

[0352] in which:

[0353] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, designate an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0354] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0355] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000.

[0356] in which:

[0357] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0358] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0359] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0360] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0361] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, Ri and R2, whether identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0362] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), there is:

[0363] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0364] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0365] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; of Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0366] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; Preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0367] A preferred silicone formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. An example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0368] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): (XV) MH.,

[0369] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.

[0370] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.

[0371] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0372] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.

[0373] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0374] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also include, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: -- (xvm) ] HCL ___ / \| I / \ I HO— / '—OH |

[0375] in which:

[0376] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0377] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;

[0378] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0379] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0380] - R” is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0381] Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the identical or different Rs are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular in C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0382] Preferably, the R's” are identical.

[0383] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or radical -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.

[0384] Preferably, R'' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0385] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0386] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0387] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0388] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0389] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0390] - R' ' is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0391] Even better, the composition may include one or more formula silicones (XVIII) in which:

[0392] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0393] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0394] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0395] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0396] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0397] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".

[0398] Preferably, the amine silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the amine silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above.

[0399] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones, better liquid and non-volatile, in particular chosen from the amino silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above, even better chosen from the amino silicones of formula (I), (III) and / or (XI) as defined above.

[0400] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone, only one or more amino silicones; in other words, according to this preference, the composition does not comprise (0%) non-amino silicone.

[0401] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.

[0402] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0403] According to the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 7. Advantageously, this weight ratio can range from 7 to 20, in particular from 8 to 15, even better from 9 to 13.

[0404] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of amino silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 7, better is from 7 to 20, even better is from 8 to 15, and even better is from 9 to 13. solid fats

[0405] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-siliconized solid fats, which may advantageously be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, butters, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0406] The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C, 1 atm, i.e., having a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), or petrolatum.

[0407] By "solid fat" is meant a fat having a melting point above 25 °C, preferably above or equal to 28 °C, better above or equal to 30 °C, at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

[0408] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0409] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, with R denoting a linear alkyl group, even actually substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0410] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0411] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0412] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0413] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably selected from solid esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0414] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0415] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0416] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, the stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0417] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0418] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0419] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0420] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0421] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0422] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW. We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax, marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene. We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, we can notably mention isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.Waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0423] As a wax, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0424] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0425] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petrolatum, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); the waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0426] Butters can also be used as a solid fat.

[0427] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.

[0428] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0429] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0430] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter. It is well known that shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is extracted and generally refined. Shea butter contains triglycerides of fatty acids. The fatty acid composition of shea butter varies, particularly depending on the geographical origin of the nuts, with stearic and oleic acids being by far the most abundant and generally exceeding 80% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acids.

[0431] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0432] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: I? .x GH ü H—GH—CH r * WH

[0433] in which: - Ri designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in Ci5-C26, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in CrCi4; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.

[0434] Preferably, ceramides are used in which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0435] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated or unsaturated group in Ci5.

[0436] Compounds can also be used in which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0437] As particularly preferred compounds, we can also mention the 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-l,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N- Stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine is used.

[0438] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-siliconized solid fats selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0439] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols and one or more solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols.

[0440] Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-siliconized solid fats selected from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, better still 14 to 22 carbon atoms; C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, C9-C26 alkyl myristates, C9-C26 alkyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0441] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-siliconized solid fat(s) in a total content of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0442] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-siliconized solid fat(s) selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in a total content of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0443] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may be present at a rate of 65 to 98% by weight, better at 70 to 97% by weight, preferably at 75 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0444] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more water-miscible organic solvents. Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are selected from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, and polyols such as C2-C6 diols or triols, preferably C2-C4 diols or triols, such as propylene glycol or glycerol. When present in the composition according to the invention, the organic solvent(s) generally represent 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0445] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may possibly further include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention non-ionic surfactants, cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, non-siliconized liquid fats, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, and fillers. Naturally, a person skilled in the art will ensure that any additional compound(s) are chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsic to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition(s). The above-mentioned additives may generally be present in quantities ranging from 0 to 20% by weight of each, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0446] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined above. The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratinous materials, possibly having been washed with shampoo.

[0447] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to moist keratin fibers.

[0448] After a possible setting time of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 2 to 10 minutes, the keratin fibers can then be rinsed, for example with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0449] The cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials is preferably a hair conditioning process.

[0450] The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a rinse-out conditioner or a rinse-out hair mask, but can also be in the form of a leave-in hair care composition such as a leave-in conditioner or a hair serum.

[0451] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being intended to be limiting.

[0452] In the following examples, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0453] Example 1 Compositions A to D according to the invention were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0454] [Tables 1] ABCD Amodimethicone (DOWSIL AP-8568 AMINO FLUID from Dow Corning) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Behentrimonium chloride 0.8 1.0 1.0 - Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine - - - 0.95 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cocobetaine 0.02 0.02 - 0.02 Sodium laureth sulfate - - 0.015 - Cetearyl alcohol 4.7 4.6 4.6 4.6 Cetyl esters 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Glycerin - 2 - - pH agent (pH = 4.1 ± 0.5) Qs Qs Qs Qs Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Ratio of cationic surfactants / silicone 9 10 10 9.5

[0455] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off hair care product (conditioning conditioner).

[0456] These compositions provide good cosmetic (conditioning) properties to the hair, in particular in terms of smoothness to the touch, detangling and shine; they also provide repair benefits, while leaving the hair light.

[0457] Composition A according to the invention was tested against a commercial conditioner for damaged hair.

[0458] A panel of testers, regular users of conditioning hair products for dry, damaged or colored hair, tested for 2 weeks either composition A according to the invention, or the commercial conditioner for damaged hair.

[0459] Composition A (or the commercial conditioner) was used in the usual way (application, setting, rinsing, drying), after the use of a commercial shampoo.

[0460] After 2 weeks of use, the testers indicated whether they were agree / completely agree with the proposed performance criterion.

[0461] The following results were obtained (% of testers agree / strongly agree with the performance criterion):

[0462] [Tables2] Performance criterion A (invention) A' (trade) Hair smooth to the touch 80% 64% Hair shiny 91% 85% Hair feels light until the next shampoo 94% 83% Ease of detangling 94% 89% Protects against breakage 88% 76% Makes hair stronger and more resilient 87% 79%

[0463] It can be seen that for each of the criteria, the difference is significantly in favor of the composition according to the invention. It thus provides significantly superior care (detangling, smoothing, shine) and repair (protection against breakage, strengthening of the hair) benefits compared to a commercially available composition specifically designed for damaged hair. It also provides the added benefit of lasting lightness.

[0464] Example 2 Compositions E according to the invention and comparative E' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0465] [Tables3] E E' Amodimethicone (DOWSIL AP-8568 AMINO FLUID from Dow Corning) 0.2 0.2 Behentrimonium chloride 0.9 0.9 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1.0 1.0 Sodium laureth sulfate 0.04 - Cetearyl alcohol 4.6 4.6 Cetyl esters 0.4 0.4 pH agent (pH = 4.1 ± 0.5) Qs Qs Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0466] Compositions are obtained that can be used as hair care products at rinse (conditioner). Evaluation of the homogeneity of the deposit

[0467] The compositions are tested on strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20), 1 g and 27 cm in length.

[0468] Initially, the strands are cleaned using a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Chamomile), at a rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0469] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to the wet strands at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, before a time of 5 minutes followed by a 10 second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0470] The homogeneity of the silicone deposit on wet hair is evaluated by measuring the friction forces of the treated strand from the length to the tip of the hair, during its movement at constant speed, between two cylinders, while squeezing it at constant compression.

[0471] The difference in friction forces between the body of the strand and the tip of the strand is determined to characterize the quality of the coating. The smaller the difference, the more homogeneous the coating is over the entire hair, resulting in a smoother, higher-quality feel.

[0472] The following results are obtained (average of measurements taken on 6 strands):

[0473] [Tables4] E (invention) E' (comparative) Gap (Points Length) 80 140

[0474] The difference in friction forces measured on wet hair, between the body of the strand and the tip, is significantly lower for strands treated with the composition according to the invention.

[0475] The surface deposit provided by the composition according to the invention therefore appears to be more homogeneous and gives a better quality of smoothness to the touch over the whole of the hair. Sensory evaluation

[0476] The tests are carried out on strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20), weighing 2.7 g and measuring 27 cm in length. The strands are pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Chamomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair.

[0477] Each strand is then treated with a classic repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oréal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, left on for 15 seconds, then rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0478] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, left on for 2 minutes, then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C). The hair is towel-dried and then evaluated while damp. Finally, the strands are blow-dried and then evaluated (dry).

[0479] Detangling is assessed using a comb, while smoothness and coating are noted by touch. The scores range from 0 (no performance) to 5 (maximum performance).

[0480] Evaluation of smoothness by touch: the evaluator takes a strand of hair at the root and runs it between their fingers along its entire length to the tips. The more uniform and homogeneous the hair is from root to tip, the fewer rough edges it has, the less it catches the fingers, and the better the smoothness by touch.

[0481] Coating assessment: the assessor takes the strand of hair in their hand, starts at the root and slides it to the tips. The more a deposit is felt on the fiber, the better the coating.

[0482] Detangling assessment: Detangling is assessed using a comb that the assessor slides from root to tip. The more easily the comb slides, the better the detangling.

[0483] The following results are obtained:

[0484] [Tables5] Evaluated criterion E (invention) E' (comparative) Wet hair Ease of detangling 4.5 3.5 Smoothness to the touch 4 3 Coating 4 3 Dry hair Smoothness to the touch 4 3 Coating 4 3

[0485] It is observed that the composition according to the invention comprising an anionic surfactant is significantly superior across all the criteria tested, compared to the composition without anionic surfactant. This superiority is manifested on wet hair by greater ease of detangling, smoother hair to the touch, and a more pronounced coating indicating better fiber transformation. On dry hair, the hair appears more treated (more conditioning coating). important) and softer (smoother, superior feel)

[0486] Example 3 Compositions F according to the invention and comparative F' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0487] [Tableauxô] F F' Amodimethicone (DOWSIL AP-8568 AMINO FLUID from Dow Corning) 0.24 0.71 Behentrimonium chloride 1.2 1.2 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1.3 1.3 Cocobetaine 0.03 0.03 Cetearyl alcohol 5.2 5.2 Cetyl esters 0.4 0.4 pH agent (pH = 4.1 ± 0.5) Qs Qs Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Ratio of cationic surfactants / silicone 10.4 3.5

[0488] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off hair care product (conditioning conditioner). Hair application

[0489] The compositions are tested on strands of natural Caucasian hair, 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.

[0490] Initially, the strands are cleaned using a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Chamomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0491] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, left on for 2 minutes followed by a 15-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C). Finally, the strands are dried for 30 minutes in an oven at 60°C.

[0492] The standard shampoo application cycle + composition to be tested + oven drying is repeated 4 more times.

[0493] The deposition of silicone on hair is quantified by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry via the measurement of the mass concentration of silicon on the fiber capillary. We subtract from the measurement obtained on the treated hair the amount of silicon naturally present in the untreated hair (silicon deposit = content measured on treated hair - content measured on untreated hair).

[0494] The following results are obtained (silicon deposition measured by XRF on dry hair, treated in multi-application (x5) with compositions F or F'. The values ​​are expressed in pg of silicon element per g of hair):

[0495] [Tables?] Silicon Deposition F (invention) F' (comparative) Average value 251 33 Standard deviation 50 24

[0496] It is observed that the composition according to the invention leads to a significantly higher silicone deposition on the hair than the comparative composition, although it comprises a lower concentration of silicone. Sensory evaluation

[0497] The tests are carried out on strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20), weighing 2.7 g and measuring 27 cm in length. The strands are pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Chamomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair.

[0498] Each strand is then treated with a classic repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oréal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0499] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, left for 2 minutes followed by a 15-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C). The hair is then towel-dried and evaluated while wet. Finally, the strands are blow-dried and evaluated (dry).

[0500] Detangling is assessed using a comb (by 1 evaluator) while smoothness is noted by touch (by 4 evaluators). Scores range from 0 (no performance) to 5 (maximum performance).

[0501] The following results are obtained:

[0502] [Tables8] Evaluated criterion F (invention) F' (comparative) Wet hair Ease of detangling 4.5 4.0 Smoothness to the touch 3.8 ± 0.2 2.5 ± 0.6 Dry hair Smoothness to the touch 4.2 ± 0.3 3.3 ± 0.4

[0503] It is observed that the composition according to the invention facilitates detangling and provides superior hair smoothing performance in both wet and dry conditions, significantly superior to that of the comparative composition, although it contains less silicone.

[0504] Instrumental evaluation of smoothing performance

[0505] The compositions are tested on strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20), 1 g and 27 cm in length.

[0506] Initially, the strands are cleaned using a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Chamomile), at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35 °C).

[0507] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to wet hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g hair, before a time of 5 minutes followed by a 15 second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0508] The friction forces on dry hair are measured, from the length to the tip of the treated strand, during its movement at constant speed between two cylinders, while it is clamped under constant compression. Low friction forces reflect a smoother hair surface.

[0509] The following results are obtained (average of measurements taken on 6 strands):

[0510] [Tables9] Friction forces (mJ) F (invention) F' (comparative) Average friction force 143.4 164.5 Standard deviation 5.6 6.6

[0511] It is observed that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the friction forces on dried hair compared to the comparative composition, although it includes a lower silicone content.

[0512] A cationic surfactant / silicone ratio greater than or equal to 7 can therefore allow to significantly increase the effectiveness of silicone deposition on the hair and to obtain added value on sensory qualities and detangling, as well as a significant gain on the performance of the hair smoothness criterion.

[0513] Example 4 Compositions G according to the invention and comparative G' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0514] [TableauxlO] G G' Amodimethicone (DOWSIL AP-8568 AMINO FLUID from Dow Corning) 0.17 0.17 Behentrimonium chloride 0.95 0.95 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1.0 1.0 Cocobetaine 0.02 - Cetearyl alcohol 4.6 4.6 Cetyl esters 0.4 0.4 pH agent (pH = 4.1 ± 0.5) Qs Qs Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0515] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off hair care product (conditioning conditioner). Hair application

[0516] The compositions are tested on strands of natural Caucasian hair, 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.

[0517] Initially, the strands are cleaned using a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Chamomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0518] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, left on for 2 minutes followed by a 15-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C). Finally, the strands are dried for 30 minutes in an oven at 60°C.

[0519] The deposition of silicone on hair is quantified by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry via the measurement of the mass concentration of silicon on the hair fiber. The amount of silicon naturally present in untreated hair is subtracted from the measurement obtained on treated hair (silicon deposition = content measured on treated hair - content measured on untreated hair).

[0520] The following results are obtained (silicon deposition measured by XRF on dry hair treated with compositions G or G'. The values ​​are expressed in pg of element silicon per gram of hair.

[0521] [Tables 11] G (invention) G' (comparative) Silicon deposition 220 194 Standard deviation 16 61

[0522] It is observed that the composition according to the invention leads to a higher deposition of silicone on the hair than the comparative composition. Sensory evaluation

[0523] The tests are carried out on strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20), weighing 2.7 g and measuring 27 cm in length. The strands are pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Chamomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair.

[0524] Each strand is then treated with a classic repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oréal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0525] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, left for 2 minutes followed by a 15-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C). The hair is then towel-dried and evaluated while wet. Finally, the strands are blow-dried and evaluated (dry).

[0526] Detangling is assessed using a comb, while smoothness and coating are noted by touch. The scores range from 0 (no performance) to 5 (maximum performance).

[0527] The following results are obtained:

[0528] [Tables 12] Evaluated criterion G (invention) G' (comparative) Wet hair Ease of detangling 4.5 3.5 Smoothness to the touch 4 3 Coating 4 3 Dry hair Smoothness to the touch 4 3 Coating 4 3

[0529] It is observed that the composition according to the invention comprising an amphoteric surfactant is significantly superior on all the criteria tested, to the com Formulated without amphoteric surfactants. This superiority is evident on damp hair as it is easier to detangle, feels smoother, and has a more pronounced coating, indicating better fiber transformation. On dry hair, the hair appears more treated (greater conditioning coating) and softer (superiorly smooth feel).

[0530] Example 5 Compositions H according to the invention and comparative H' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

[0531] [Tables 13] H H' Amodimethicone (DOWSIL AP-8568 AMINO FLUID from Dow Corning) 0.4 0.4 Behentrimonium chloride 1.54 1.16 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1.66 1.24 Cocobetaine 0.25 0.25 Cetearyl alcohol 4 4 Cetyl esters 0.4 0.4 pH agent (pH = 4.1 ± 0.5) Qs Qs Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Ratio of cationic surfactants / silicone 8 6

[0532] Compositions are obtained that can be used as a rinse-off hair care product (conditioning conditioner). Sensory evaluation

[0533] The tests are carried out on strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20), weighing 2.7 g and measuring 27 cm in length. The strands are pre-cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP Chamomile) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair.

[0534] Each strand is then treated with a classic repair shampoo (ELSEVE Total Repair 5, L'Oréal Paris) at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair. The shampoo is massaged onto the strand to create a lather, before a 15-second application time, followed by a 10-second rinse with water (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C).

[0535] In a second step, the composition to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g / g of hair, before a processing time of 2 minutes followed by rinsing at The hair is rinsed for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l / h, temperature: 35°C). The hair is then towel-dried and assessed as wet. Finally, the strands are blow-dried and assessed as dry.

[0536] Detangling is assessed using a comb (1 assessor) while smoothness and coating are noted by touch (3 assessors). The scores range from 0 (no performance) to 5 (maximum performance).

[0537] The following results are obtained:

[0538] [Tables 14] Evaluated criterion H (invention) H' (comparative) Wet hair Ease of detangling 5.0 4.0 Smoothness to the touch 4.4 ± 0.3 3.0 ± 0.0 Coating 3.9 ± 0.3 3.0 ± 0.0 Dry hair Smoothness to the touch 4.0 ± 0.4 3.0 ± 0.0 Coating 4.3 ± 0.3 3.0 ± 0.5

[0539] It is observed that the composition according to the invention is significantly superior on all the criteria tested, to the comparative composition.

[0540] It provides superior usability qualities (ease of detangling) and better cosmetic performance on wet and dry hair (smooth to the touch, coating).

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more surfactants chosen from anionic and amphoteric surfactants, - at least two cationic surfactants that are different from each other, and - one or more silicones, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone(s) being greater than or equal to 7.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic surfactants are selected from the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts: - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which: - X- is an anion specifically chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates; - the RI to R4 groups, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or al-kylaryl, at least one of the RI to R4 groups designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): F" “H (III) FL: O; M"' ' ' " " X 3 / R7 $ C““C | Hs in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively. - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular those of formula (IV): R --(CH ।—N—R » ci' 13 A, FU in which R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms. Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, R10a, Riia, Ru, R12, Rb and R[4, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (V) O s 'f in which: Rn is chosen from among the Ci-C6 alkyl groups and the Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(0)- group; the R20 groups which are CrC22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom, Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(0)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R denotes R22. - fatty amines, and in particular fatty amidoamines, preferably of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

3. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least one cationic surfactant selected from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI), and mixtures thereof, said formulas being as defined in claim 2; better from those of formula (II) or (V), and mixtures thereof; even better from those of formula (V).

4. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising at least two cationic surfactants both selected from those of

5. formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof, said formulas being as defined in claim 2; better at least one of the cationic surfactants being selected from those of formula (V) and at least one other of the cationic surfactants being selected from those of formula (II) and / or (VI). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; Better yet, the composition includes: (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms; and (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from: (iia) tetraalkylammonium salts, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts; preferably chloride, bromide, or methylsulfate salts of these compounds; and / or (iib) amidoamines of formula (VI)RC0NHR”N(R')2 as defined in claim 2.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: (i) one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof; preferably of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium and / or diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium; the acyl groups preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms;and (ii) one or more cationic surfactants selected from tetraalkylammonium salts, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts; preferably chloride, bromide, or methylsulfate salts of these compounds. Better still, the composition includes: - one or more cationic surfactants chosen from among the salts, in particular chloride, bromide or methosulfate, of dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethyl-ammonium, and their mixtures;and - one or more cationic surfactants selected from salts, including chloride, bromide or methosulfate, of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof.;

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising cationic surfactants in a total amount of 0.2 to 10% by weight, better 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, preferably selected from, alone or in mixture, - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20; comprising preferably with 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20; - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20; - C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20; - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates; - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those with 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene; - C6-C24 acylglutamates, in particular C12-C20; - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20; in particular in acid form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol;preferably, selected from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20, and C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol; as well as mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less (strictly) than 1% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants, in particular selected from, alone or in mixtures, - alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines; - secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, of the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C): (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO , M+ , X in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkali-o-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; (B) Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkali-o-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid R, -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group. (C) Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkali-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in the C10 to C30 position of an acid Ra -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3. preferably alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopro-pylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (C ) such as salts, especially sodium salts, of diethylaminosuccinamate of diethylaminopropyl.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in a total amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less (strictly) than 1% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of surfactant(s) selected from anionic and amphoteric surfactant(s) of 0.001 to 1% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones selected from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof; in particular selected from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, non-volatile liquid amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones selected from the following amino silicones, alone or in mixtures: A) polysiloxanes conforming to formula (I): fCG. ~| P GH £ ■: ? $ $ § HG -■■■■■■-: - G Si ----- G -)- HL ' ' 1 ] I JJ xx V' (I) .< w«« •' ■ -■ in which x1 and y1 are integers such that the mass mo average lecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol; B) Amino silicones corresponding to formula (II): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II) in which: - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl group in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy group in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quaternized, chosen from the following groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C2O alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, including halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; Preferably, amino silicones of formula (II) being selected from: (i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones conforming to formula (III): in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10. (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. (iii) silicones of the following formula (V): in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms; this radical is preferably linear. (v) silicones of the following formula (VII): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms; this radical is preferably branched. C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII): in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; And - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50. D) Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX) in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of an organic acid, in particular acetate; and - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X) in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; F) Multiblock polyoxyalkylated amine silicones of type (AB)n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylated block comprising at least one amine group; said silicones preferably being composed of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' >R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R' -N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon divalent radical, possibly containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, designate an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' designate -CH(CH3)-CH2-. G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): CH, S OL (XI) in which: - R, R' and R”, identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1 -C4 or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500000. in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100; - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. H) polysiloxanes, and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): HgHCH>jaHg€H:rW^ (XV) In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000. In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000. I) Amino silicones conforming to the formula (XVIII) below: in which: - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5; - R”’, identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH; - R’ is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R” is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 5 carbon atoms.preferably, the amino silicone(s) being chosen from, alone or in mixture, the amino silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above; even better chosen from the amino silicones of formula (I), (III) and / or (XI) as defined above.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the silicone(s) in a total content preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactants and the total content of silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention is from 7 to 20, in particular from 8 to 15, or even better from 9 to 13.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-siliconized solid fats, advantageously selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, butters, ceramides and mixtures thereof; better selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; even better selected from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, C9-C26 alkyl myristates, C9-C26 alkyl stearates; and their mixtures.

18. A cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.