Aqueous makeup remover composition with a gentle peeling effect

Abstract

Aqueous makeup remover composition with a gentle peeling effect The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition, in particular a micellar makeup remover water with a gentle peeling effect, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: at least one polyhydroxy acid, at least one hydroxy acid chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids and / or beta-hydroxy acids, at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably of the betaine type, and at least one non-ionic surfactant, such as a poloxamer. It also relates to a method for removing makeup and / or cleaning keratin materials using such a composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Aqueous makeup remover composition with gentle peeling effect

[0001] The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition, in particular a micellar make-up remover water with a gentle peeling effect, containing a combination of polyhydroxy acid(s) (PHA) and hydroxy acid(s) (AHA / BHA), at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably of the betaine type, and at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0002] Removing make-up from the skin is very important for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, face, eyelids, lips but also keratin fibres such as eyelashes. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, residues of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular water-resistant ones, accumulate in particular in the skin folds and on the surface of the skin, and can clog the pores of the skin and thus cause the appearance of spots.

[0003] More particularly, the sensitivity of the eye and the eyelids and the nature of certain eyeshadows (waterproof eyeshadows) require makeup remover formulations specially adapted to guarantee both good ocular tolerance and maintenance of the skin barrier, at the same time as easy and effective makeup removal.

[0004] The majority of available makeup remover compositions are compositions comprising oils, these allowing the dissolution of fatty residues and the dispersion of residual pigments. Mention may in particular be made of two-phase compositions, i.e. consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which require prior stirring before application. Such formulations allow good makeup removal, are well tolerated, but leave a finish on the skin which is often greasy.

[0005] There are also micellar waters, which are fluid single-phase compositions that provide freshness upon application. Such compositions are not always effective in removing makeup and cleansing the skin, and generally do not provide any additional benefits, particularly in terms of cell renewal.

[0006] There therefore remains a need for effective and well-tolerated makeup remover compositions, which have a liquid and fresh texture, and which provide a benefit upon application, and in particular on cell renewal, while respecting sensitive skin.

[0007] Peels are a well-known way to accelerate cell renewal, improve the surface appearance of the skin, particularly to treat or smooth out irregularities. visible and / or tactile regularities of human skin. These peels have the effect of removing part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly the superficial layer of the dermis), by applying compositions containing high concentrations of agents stimulating skin desquamation, such as hydroxy acids like glycolic acid or salicylic acid. Although giving satisfactory results in terms of peeling effect, the products used for peels generally contain acids at high concentrations giving compositions of pH < 2, and therefore cause significant discomfort during application and after application: redness, stinging, burning sensation.

[0008] Some foaming cleansing products claim a neutral pH (7) and a peeling effect, but the peeling effect proves to be insufficient because a neutral pH (7) is generally not compatible with the effectiveness of the hydroxy acids used as peeling active ingredients. On the other hand, these foaming products contain surfactants, and require rinsing, which can lead to skin dryness, or even aggravate possible skin intolerance.

[0009] There therefore remains a need for new types of compositions which are both effective in terms of makeup removal and cell renewal, and have good skin and eye tolerance compatible with eye makeup removal.

[0010] The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that an aqueous composition comprising the combination of at least one polyhydroxy acid (PHA), at least one hydroxy acid (AHA / BHA), and at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably of the betaine type, combined with the presence of at least one non-ionic surfactant such as a polyoxamer, allows both effective makeup removal and cell renewal, with very good ocular tolerance and good maintenance of the skin barrier.

[0011] The present invention thus relates to a liquid aqueous composition, preferably a micellar water for removing make-up and / or cleansing keratin materials, comprising: at least one polyhydroxy acid (PHA), at least one hydroxy acid chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably of the betaine type, at least one non-ionic surfactant, and water.

[0012] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is single-phase aqueous, and has a fluid and transparent appearance similar to water under ambient conditions of temperature (25°C) and pressure (100 kPa).

[0013] The present invention also relates to a process for removing make-up and / or cleaning keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0014] By "keratin materials" is meant the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the appendages. Preferably, the keratin materials are the skin, in particular the skin of the face, the mucous membranes such as the lips, the eyelids, the eye contour, and / or the appendages such as the eyelashes.

[0015] The components of the composition according to the invention are now described in more detail. Aqueous phase

[0016] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0017] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water, in particular at least 50% water, and optionally one or more organic solvent(s) soluble in water, at 25°C. This (these) solvent(s) may advantageously be chosen, for example, from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0018] The composition generally comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 70 to 98% by weight, preferably from 80 to 98% by weight, preferably from 85 to 97% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The amount of organic solvent(s) may range, for example, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 13% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention also comprises: at least one polyhydroxy acid (PHA), at least one hydroxy acid chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably of the betaine type, at least one non-ionic surfactant. Polyhydroxy acids or polyhydroxy acids or PHA

[0021] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first compound chosen from polyhydroxylated acids, and their derivatives in the form of salts or their lactone forms.

[0022] The term "polyhydroxy acid" refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferred, with one carboxyl group being more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferred, and 2 to 6 are even more preferred. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but preferably the PHA contains 3 to 11 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8.

[0023] The PHA may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.

[0024] The polyhydroxy acid is advantageously chosen from: dihydroxy-propanoic acid, such as glyceric acid; trihydroxy-butanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxy-pentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxy-hexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactose, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexhydroxy-heptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, their derivatives in the form of salts or their lactone forms such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone, and their mixtures.

[0025] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferable. If two or more acid salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0026] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring is preferably saturated; and preferably in this case, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Among the list of PHAs that can be used according to the invention, galactose is also included, although it is a hexose from the aldose family, it is pentahydroxylated, and can be used as a gentle exfoliant.

[0028] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid according to the invention is therefore chosen from: lactobionic acid, galactose, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the aqueous composition according to the invention uses one or more PHAs, so as to select or combine their effects. For example, lactobionic acid, derived from lactose, is moisturizing, antioxidant and soothing. Galactose, which is naturally found in the deep layers of the skin, has an action on the production of collagen. Gluconic acid, gluconolactone, like galactose, are naturally present in skin cells. Their role is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

[0029] Preferably, said polyhydroxy acid used in the composition according to the invention is gluconolactone.

[0030] The amount of PHA in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 4%, preferably 0.5 to 3%, preferably 1 to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacids

[0031] In addition, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxy acid different from the PHA(s), chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Alpha-hydroxy acids (also called AHAs or alpha-hydroxy acids)

[0033] By "alpha-hydroxy acid" is meant a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).

[0034] The α-hydroxy acids (alpha-hydroxy acids) are in particular chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their esters, their salts and their mixtures. Mixtures of these different acids can also be used.

[0035] Advantageously, the alphahydroxy acid(s) is(are) chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, their esters, their salts, and their mixtures. Thus, glycolic acid (which is derived from sugar cane) is one of the most effective AHAs, because its smaller molecule allows it to exfoliate more deeply into the skin. It refines skin texture and gives radiance to the complexion. Glycolic acid is also said to have a slight reducing effect on sebum production. Lactic acid comes from the fermentation of milk but is also found in several fruits. It is one of the mildest acids, so it is ideal for dry and sensitive skin. It is an excellent natural humectant. It attracts water and retains it in the skin. Regarding malic acid, it is found in particular in Apples, pears, grapes. It is often used in cosmetic preparations to rebalance their pH, but on the skin, it is also said to have moisturizing properties and helps stimulate collagen production. It can penetrate very deeply into the skin thanks to its small molecular size. Mandelic acid, from almonds, is one of the gentlest AHAs because its molecular size is larger than that of other acids and therefore limits its ability to absorb deep into the skin. It acts more on the surface, and is therefore less irritating than other acids that act more intensely. It also helps reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Tartaric acid comes from grapes. This acid has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Citric acid, comes from citrus fruits. It is mainly used for its lightening properties on dark spots and hyperpigmentation.It is also astringent so can also reduce pore size. Advantageously, the aqueous composition according to the invention uses several AHAs in order to combine their effects.

[0036] More particularly, the alphahydroxy acid(s) is(are) chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, their esters, and their mixtures.

[0037] Ester derivatives include in particular ester compounds of glycolic acid, lactic acid, such as methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, butyl lactate and, likewise, ester compounds of glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid.

[0038] Particularly suitable alpha-hydroxy acids in the composition of the present invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the aqueous composition of the present invention is glycolic acid.

[0040] Beta-hydroxyacids (also called BHA or beta-hydroxy acids)

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “beta-hydroxy acid” means a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0042] The b-hydroxy acid(s) (beta-hydroxy acid(s)) are in particular chosen from: salicylic acid, beta-hydroxypropionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxymethylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and their combinations. Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives.

[0043] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives.

[0044] Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is an active agent, particularly for anti-blemish treatment.

[0045] Alternatively, a salicylic acid derivative is present. The salicylic acid derivatives are preferably those of formula (I):

[0046] [Chem.l]

[0047] in which: - the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said nuclei and chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or ester group of formula -OC(O)-R1 in which RI denotes an aliphatic chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; - as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base.

[0048] Preferably: - the radical R denotes a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or ester group of formula -OC(O)-R1 in which RI denotes a radical -(CH2)n-CH3 where n is a number ranging from 0 to 14; - as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0049] The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group and R' denotes hydroxyl. Other particularly interesting compounds are those in which R represents a chain derived from linoleic, linolenic or oleic acid. Another group of particularly preferred compounds is constituted by compounds in which the radical R denotes a C3-C11 alkyl group carrying a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R' denotes hydroxyl.

[0050] As preferred derivatives of salicylic acid, the following may therefore be mentioned: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid or 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0051] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0052] Advantageously, salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is used as the sole hydroxy acid or in combination with an AHA to ensure increased penetration of the composition into the skin.

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, the salts of these hydroxy acids are also considered. The salts can be obtained by salification of the acid in question with an organic or mineral base. As mineral bases, particular mention may be made of hydroxylated bases of alkalis or alkaline-earth metals, such as, for example, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide and ammonia. As regards organic bases, these may in particular be bases of the amine or alkanolamine type.

[0054] The hydroxy acid(s) are present in the composition of the present invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% and better still from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5%, preferably from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.2 to 0.8%, by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0055] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants. The amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the invention may be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0056] In particular, we can cite betaines and sulfobetaines (or sultaines) as well as their mixtures, and in particular, alone or as a mixture: betaine, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, and in particular cocobetaine; alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(Cl-C6)betaines, and in particular alkyl(C8-C20)amidopropylbetaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines.

[0057] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, mention may also be made of the products of the following respective structures (Al) and (A2):

[0058] (Al) Ra-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-)

[0059] in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an Ra-COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; m is equal to 0.1 or 2; Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

[0060] (A2) Ra'-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m'-N(B)(B')

[0061] in which: B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; B' represents -(CH2)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z'; m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group; Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane; Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.

[0062] Compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are particularly preferred.

[0063] Among the compounds of formula (A2) for which X' represents a hydrogen atom, mention may be made of the compounds known under the names (CTFA) sodium co-coamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate. Other compounds of formula (A2) are known under the names (CTFA) disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroam-phodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroampho-dipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0064] Compounds of formula (A3) can also be used:

[0065] (A3) Ra”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re)

[0066] in which: Ra” represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra”-C(O)OH, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; Y” represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z” with Z” representing a cation derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0067] Among the compounds of formula (A3), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl co-coaspartamide. Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants

[0068] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of betaine type of the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0069] - alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine such as for example the product GENAGEN KB® from CLARIANT, or coco-betaine such as Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH;

[0070] - N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® from SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT ET WILSON or Dehyton PK 45), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO), or N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl ami-noacetate N-disodium (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® from RHODIA CHIMIE);

[0071] - sultaines, such as cocoylamidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine (for example CROSULTAINE C-500 from CRODA);

[0072] - and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Preferably, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl-betaines and N-alkylamido-betaines, preferably from N-alkylamido-betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The active material content of amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from betaine type, in particular chosen from alkyl-betaines, is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.1 to 0.5%, by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0075] The composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0076] They can be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-20)phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0077] Mention may also be made of non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, in particular represented by the following general formula: R10-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al-kylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4; v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0078] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which: RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the average degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0079] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucoside, laurylglucoside; and coco-glucoside.

[0080] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company BASF under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0081] Preferably, C8 / C16-alkyl (poly)glycoside 1,4 are used, in particular 53% aqueous solution, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention uses one or more surfactants having, at 25°C, an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the sense of Griffin, greater than or equal to 8, more particularly an HLB greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12, preferably greater than or equal to 13, used alone or as a mixture. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0083] Mention may in particular be made of: monosaccharide esters and ethers, such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols, for example Montanov 68 from Seppic; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohols), such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol comprising 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20") and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), marketed under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) and polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, marketed under the name Myrj 52P® by ICI Uniquema; fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, marketed under the name Simulsol 220® by Seppic;polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat S® marketed by Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat 0® marketed by Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Varionic LI 13® marketed by Sherex, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat L® marketed by Goldschmidt, and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate comprising 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat 1® from Goldschmidt; fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 groups; oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene), commonly referred to as “carbohydrate-based esters (CBEs)”. Examples of such carbohydrate-based esters, but not limited to, are polysorbate 20, marketed as Tween20® by Croda, polysorbate 21, sold as Tween21® by Croda or polysorbate 60, sold as TweenôO® by Croda; dimethicone copolyol such as that sold as Q2-5220® by Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® from Fintex). Examples of such surfactants are provided in US 2012 / 042894, which is incorporated herein by reference; poloxamers, which are copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide.

[0084] Said copolymers of propylene oxide (PO) and ethylene oxide (EO), also called EO / PO polycondensates, are copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks. Preferably, the EO / PO polycondensate is chosen from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates, for example those having the following chemical structure:

[0085] H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH, formula in which: a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably a ranges from 10 to 130, and b ranges from 20 to 80.

[0086] The block copolymer surfactant (polycondensate) of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20000, better still ranging from 1500 to 19000, in particular ranging from 2000 to 18000 and even better still ranging from 4000 to 17000.

[0087] As polycondensates, mention may in particular be made of the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates marketed under the names “Synperonic” by the company Uniqema, such as the condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (13 EO / 30 OP / 13 EO) (MW: 2900) marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 64 NAA LQ (Poloxamer 184), the condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (8 EO / 30 OP / 8 EO) (MW: 2500) marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 62 (INCI name: Poloxamer 182), the condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (6 EO / 67 OP / 6 OE) (MW: 4400) marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 121 (INCI name: Poloxamer 401), ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide condensates (46 OE / 16 OP / 46 OE) (MW: 5000) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F38 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108),condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (128 EO / 54 OP / 128 EO) (MW: 14,000) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), condensates of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (11 EO / 21 OP / 11 EO) (MW: 2200) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), the , condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (5 EO / 21 OP / 5 EO) (MW: 1630) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (98 EO / 67 OP / 98 EO) (MW: 12,000) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), condensates of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (97 EO / 39 OP / 97 EO) (MW: 10,800) marketed under the name Synperonic® PE / F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238) and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in the composition according to an active material content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Preferably, said non-ionic surfactant is chosen from: polyol fatty acid esters, and in particular fatty acid glyceryl esters, such as PEG-6 Caprylic / capric glycerides fatty acid ester; polycondensates, in particular oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated block polymers such as poloxamers; sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as sorbitan monostearate, and their oxyethylenated derivatives, such as polysorbates;

[0090] - oxyethylenated ethers of dihydrocholesterol; alkylpolyglycosides, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as for example decyl-glucoside; caprylyl / capryl glucoside; laurylglucoside; and coco-glucoside; and mixtures thereof.

[0091] More preferably, said non-ionic surfactant comprises at least one po-loxamer, i.e. a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate, preferably with the following chemical structure:

[0092] H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH, formula in which a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably a ranges from 10 to 130, and b ranges from 20 to 80.

[0093] Even more preferably, the poloxamer is the condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (13 EO / 30 OP / 13 EO) (MW: 2900), in particular as marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 64 NAA LQ by the company Croda (INCI name: Poloxamer 184),

[0094] Preferably, the concentration of poloxamer (i.e. active material) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably of 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even more particularly of 0.2 to 0.9% by weight.

[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least one amphoteric surfactant of betaine type, such as those cited previously and at least one non-ionic surfactant, such as those preferred and cited previously.

[0096] Preferably, the mixture comprises at least coco-betaine and a poloxamer, preferably the condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (13 EO / 30 OP / 13 EO) (MW: 2900), in particular as marketed under the name Synperonic PE / L 64 NAA LQ by the company Croda (INCI name: Poloxamer 184).

[0097] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first non-ionic surfactant chosen from poloxamers and at least one second non-ionic surfactant chosen from: fatty acid esters of polyol; sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as sorbitan monostearate, and their oxyethylene derivatives, such as polysorbates; alkylpolyglycosides, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as for example decylglucoside; caprylyl / capryl glucoside; laurylglucoside; and coco-glucoside; preferably said non-ionic surfactant(s) comprise a poloxamer and a polysorbate.

[0098] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains a PHA, an AHA, an amphoteric surfactant of betaine type and at least one non-ionic surfactant, in which the weight content of PHA is greater than the weight content of AHA, itself greater than the weight content of amphoteric surfactant of betaine type, and the non-ionic surfactant comprises at least one poloxamer; preferably said composition contains gluconolactone, glycolic acid, coco-betaine, a poloxamer, and polysorbate; preferably the aqueous composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 2% of gluconolactone, from 0.1 to 1% of glycolic acid, from 0.1 to 1% of coco-betaine, from 0.1 to 1% of poloxamer, and optionally from 0.1 to 1% of polysorbate, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional surfactants

[0099] The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more other surfactants, chosen from anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants (different from the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type described above), and mixtures thereof.

[0100] It may be hydrocarbon or silicone, and may have at 25°C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, preferably greater than or equal to 8. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

[0101] Preferably, said additional surfactant is chosen from: a. anionic surfactants such as: - salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from alkali salts, and their mixtures; - phosphoric esters and their salts such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N ION from CRODA) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan); - sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfo-succinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”; - alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate; - isethionates; - acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures; - soy derivatives such as potassium soyate; - citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets of Degussa); - proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, Palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic); - lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB); - sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75 / 25 (Crodasin SM from Croda); - sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant); - glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto); - salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and / or amino-2-methyl-2-propane di-ol-1,3 stearate; b. amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such as N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates (such as trimethylglycine), disodium cocoamphodiacetate, amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as di- methicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company PHOENIX CHEMICAL; c. cationic surfactants such as salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and d. their mixtures.

[0102] Preferably, the total content of surfactants (i.e. active material) generally ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more particularly from 0.4 to 2% by weight. Such a content of surfactants in fact contributes in particular to the formation of micelles within the composition. These micelles can be detected by physicochemical methods, such as the DRX or DLS optical method.

[0103] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of micellar water; notably characterized in that it contains free micelles, detectable in particular by DLS (“dynamic light scattering”) spectroscopic analysis based on the principle of dynamic light diffusion, said micelles preferably having a median diameter D50 in the range of 1 to 40 nm, preferably 2 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 10 nm.

[0104] Advantageously, the total content by weight of surfactant(s) in the composition corresponds to a concentration of surfactant(s) greater than the critical micellar concentration (CMC) of said surfactant(s) in the composition, said CMC preferably being determined by tensiometry. Other ingredients

[0105] The composition may also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as additional active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, or mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0106] Advantageously, the pH of the aqueous composition according to the present invention is between 4 and 7, preferably in the pH range of 4.5 to 5, i.e. close to physiological pH: neither too acidic to avoid any aggressive action on the skin or the eyes, nor too basic nor neutral (7) because beyond pH 6 the peeling effect is little or not observed.

[0107] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a neutralizer, such as an acid and / or a base.

[0108] According to a variant, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one base. The base may be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, hy alkali metal oxides, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxides, ammonia, organic bases such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropylamine, tri[(2-hydroxy) 1-propyl)] amine, N,N-dimethyl ethanolamine, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol, triethylamine, dimethylaminopropylamine and amphoteric bases (i.e. bases having both anionic and cationic functional groups) such as primary, secondary, tertiary or cyclic organic amines, amino acids. Examples of amphoteric bases include glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxymethylaminomethane (TRISTA), triethanolamine, and any mixtures thereof.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment, the base of the composition is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxides, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tro-metamine and any of their mixtures. According to a particular embodiment, the base of the composition is chosen from sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and their mixture.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a weight content of less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.4% by weight relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0111] According to a variant, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional acid, other than the acids defined above. The acid may be chosen from mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, organic acids such as acetic acid, ascorbic acid and any of their mixtures. The acid may be chosen from organic acids, such as benzoic acid, anisic acid and any of their mixtures.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment, the additional acid of the composition according to the invention is present in a weight content of less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution on the skin, and in particular using a cotton pad, a stick, a brush, gauze, a spatula or a pad, or even by spraying, and it can be removed or not. It can be removed for example by rinsing with water or simply wiping.

[0114] The compositions according to the invention are presented in the aqueous galenic forms usually used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, preferably in the form of aqueous solutions or dispersions, or optionally in the form of a two-phase composition with an oily phase.

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a micellar water and / or a two-phase. By two-phase, we mean a two-phase composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified in each other at rest. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a micellar water, preferably single-phase.

[0116] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention does not require rinsing, in particular with water. In particular, another advantage of the composition according to the present invention is that it is not a foaming composition and therefore does not require water either during the implementation of the composition, or after its use, since its rinsing is not necessary.

[0117] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2%, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of sulfated surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%; and preferably, the composition according to the present invention is free of sulfated surfactant, such as sodium laureth sulfate.

[0118] The composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives (for example phenoxyethanol and parabens), antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring materials. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the aqueous phase, into a possible oily phase, or solubilized in the surfactants.

[0119] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of hydrophilic polymer, i.e. water-soluble or water-dispersible; i.e. it contains less than 1% by weight of hydrophilic polymer, or even better, the composition according to the invention is completely free of hydrophilic polymers, such as cellulose derivatives (carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose); polycarboxyvinyl polymers of the Carbomer type, such as those sold by the company Goodrich under the names Carbopol 940, 951, 980, or by the company 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen K or Synthalen L; acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers sold under the names Pemulen by the company Goodrich;polyacrylamides and acrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the company Seppic, the product sold under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS by the company Clariant or the copolymers sold under the names ARISTOFLEX by the company Clariant.;

[0120] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of oily phase (also called fatty phase). By "substantially free of oily phase" is meant that the composition according to the invention has an oily phase content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 0.2%, or even less than or equal to 0.1%, by weight. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is completely free of oily phase.

[0121] Oil is understood to mean a fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The "fatty substance" comprises at least one "fatty" hydrocarbon chain, i.e. a linear hydrocarbon chain of at least 4 carbon atoms, unsaturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, and in particular a linear C5-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0122] When present in the composition according to the invention, the oily phase comprises at least one oil. Preferably, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable oil. The oil(s) of the oily phase are preferably chosen from jojoba seed oil, sweet almond oil, deodorized refined white meadowfoam oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil and calophyllum oil and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The oily phase may also comprise at least one volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C15-C19 alkanes, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN L19.

[0124] The oily phase may also comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane, C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane.

[0125] In addition, the oily phase may comprise a fatty acid ester, preferably of natural origin. As fatty acid ester, mention may in particular be made of synthetic esters of fatty acids such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with Ri + R2 > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate.Preferably, the fatty acid ester is chosen from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, and mixtures thereof, advantageously the fatty acid ester is isopropyl palmitate.

[0126] The oily phase may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, such as perfumes.

[0127] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the oily phase forms with the aqueous phase two distinct phases which are not emulsified in each other at rest, and the composition according to the invention is then preferably in the form of a "two-phase composition". Two-phase compositions are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation" or "demixing".Advantageously, in this case, the aqueous phase / oil phase weight ratio of the two-phase product according to the invention is in the range from 95 / 5 to 55 / 45, preferably in the range from 95 / 5 to 65 / 35, preferably from 90 / 10 to 70 / 30, preferably from 90 / 10 to 80 / 20.

[0128] This alternative with optional oily phase nevertheless remains the least preferred since, as indicated above, the composition according to the invention is preferably substantially free of oily phase, the composition according to the invention having an oily phase content preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight.

[0129] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is transparent.

[0130] By transparent composition is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition having a turbidity value of less than 20 NTU, preferably less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is in the range of 0.1 to 10 NTU, and preferably 1 to 10 NTU. NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement for the turbidity of a composition. The measurement of turbidity is carried out, for example, with a turbidimeter model 2100P from Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (20°C to 25°C). Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value of between 1 and 20 NTU, preferably between 1 and 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU.

[0131] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is packaged in transparent anti-UV packaging.

[0132] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for removing make-up and / or cleaning keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or mucous membranes (such as the lips) and / or keratin fibers (such as eyelashes).

[0133] The present invention also relates to a method for removing make-up and / or cleaning keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or mucous membranes (such as the lips, the eye contour, or the eyelids) and / or keratin fibers (such as eyelashes), comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. Preferably, immediately after a make-up removal method with even a mild peeling effect, it is recommended to avoid exposure to the sun. Advantageously, the method according to the invention therefore further comprises at least one step of applying an anti-UV product, preferably with an SPF (sun protecting factor) of at least SPF 30, preferably in the morning after use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0134] Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0135] The invention is now illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. The percentages are expressed by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w), unless otherwise stated. Examples

[0136] The aqueous compositions detailed in the tables below are prepared according to the conventional methods of those skilled in the art. The ingredients of the aqueous phase are mixed and heated to around 50°C to 60°C. Then any salts (NaOH, NaCl) are added and finally the preservatives.

[0137] [Tables 1] INCI Ex25 WATER 93.76 GLYCERIN 1.00 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 2.00 GLUCONOLACTONE 1.00 GLYCOLIC ACID 0.41 COCO-BETAINE 0.15 POLOXAMER 184 0.50 POLYSORBATE 20 0.50 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.38 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.03 DISODIUM EDTA 0.20 MYRTRIMONIUM BROMIDE 0.07

[0138] 1- Evaluation of cell renewal by skin labeling with chloride ansvle

[0139] Principle: The movement of cells through the stratum corneum of the epidermis to the skin surface is a function of the rate of new cell production. Dansyl chloride has been reported to bind strongly to amino acids and has become useful as a fluorescent label for proteins. The disappearance of the fluorescent label from the stratum corneum is an indicator of cell movement through the epidermis and can therefore be considered a measure of the rate of cell proliferation, often referred to as cell turnover.

[0140] Protocol: Subjects: N = 29 healthy women aged 39 to 63 years; Study duration: 22 days; Measurement points taken at the following evaluation times: Days: D3, D5, D7, and D22

[0141] Test design: Two 3.5 x 3.5 cm patches containing 0.2 g of dansyl chloride (5% in petrolatum) are applied to a randomized volar forearm. The patches will be left in place for 24 hours to allow saturation of the skin with dansyl chloride. After patch removal, the baseline level of fluorescence is assessed in a dark room under Wood's lamp illumination.

[0142] Subjects apply the test product to the assigned area (avoiding the untreated control area) on the palmar forearm once daily in the evening for the duration of the study. At the test site, a cotton pad saturated with the product (composition) to be tested (test material) is used. Apply the test material by gently wiping a saturated cotton pad over the designated test site on the palmar surface of the right or left forearm. The control (untreated) forearm site remains untreated throughout the study and is wiped with water-saturated cotton pads at the same frequency as the test material.

[0143] Subjects returned for fluorescence assessment every day for 22 consecutive days (less weekends). Cumulative mean fluorescence scores for treated and untreated sites were tabulated at days 3, 5, 7, and 22 and compared via statistical analysis: a P value <0.05 indicates that the result is significant (in bold in the following tables), i.e., a statistically significant improvement is obtained compared to the control.

[0144] Formula tested: Ex25 at Day 5, Day 7, and Day 23.

[0145] The table below shows the total cumulative fluorescence scores for the Ex25 formula (“treated” site) and the reference or “control” value (“untreated” site); then the P value obtained using the Wilcoxon signed rank test method indicates whether the result obtained is significant.

[0146] [Tables2] Measurement point Treated / untreated (control) site Mean Standard deviation Median Wilcoxon signed rank test Statistical significance (Yes if P <0.05) P value Day 3 treated 14.57 0.50 15.00 0.3458 Non-control 14.63 0.49 Day 5 treated 22.38 1.76 22.50 0.0011 control 22.97 1.31 22.50 Day 7 treated 29.57 3.19 29.00 0.0011 control 30.90 2.31 30.00 Day 23 treated 48.67 5.96 48.00 <0.001 control 53.70 5.06 52.00

[0147] The table below indicates the number of days for cell renewal at the site “Treated” by the formula according to the present invention Ex25 compared to the untreated site (“Control”):

[0148] [Tables3] Treated / Untreated (Control) Test Site Mean Standard Deviation Median Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test P-Value Treated 9.93 2.15 9.50 < 0.001 Control 12.43 2.70 11.00

[0149] Table 3 shows that cell renewal at the site “Treated” by the formula according to the present invention Ex25 is faster than that of the untreated site (“Control”).

[0150] Table 4 below displays the area under the curve (AUC) results, graphically representing the daily fluorescence dye score over the duration of the study.

[0151] [Tables4] Treated / Untreated (Control) Test Site Mean Standard Deviation Median Paired t-test P-value Treated 45.67 5.96 45.00 < 0.001 Control 50.70 5.06 49.00

[0152] It was thus demonstrated that this score (ASC) on the treated site was lower than the score (ASC) obtained for the control site, with a significant difference. Conclusion of the cell renewal test:

[0153] Table 2 shows the total fluorescence scores at days 3, 5, 7, and 23. A lower total score represents a decrease in the stratum corneum dansyl chloride fluorescence marker, and therefore signals the timing of cell turnover. The treated sites showed lower total cumulative fluorescence scores (by statistically significant difference) at day 5, day 7, and day 23 compared to the untreated control site. Table 3 shows that the treated sites have a statistically significant faster cell turnover rate (in days) compared to the untreated control site. Finally, the area under the curve (AUC), shown in Table 4, corresponds to the daily fluorescence dye score over the entire study period. It was also shown that the AUC for the treated site was lower (significant difference) than the AUC at the control site.

[0154] Thus, the composition according to the present invention, tested under the conditions of this study, helps to accelerate cell renewal compared to the untreated control site. 2- Measurement of insensible water loss (PIE)

[0155] The effectiveness of the Ex25 formula on insensible water loss by biometric measurement was objectively evaluated.

[0156] Panel: 24 women aged between 27 and 65 years (mean = 54 years), with a PIE value > 6 gm 2.h 1 on the anterior surface of the forearms.

[0157] Treatment: The product was applied in one go, with a single-use finger cot, by the technician to a defined area of the forearm, in an amount of 2 mg / cm2.

[0158] Evaluation: A Courage&Khazaka Tewameter® was used as a measuring device for evaluating the rate of transepidermal water loss or TEWL (in English “Transepidermal Waterloss” or PIE).

[0159] The measurement is made at T0 and Tlh after application of the product.

[0160] Results:

[0161] The average improvement rate of the PIE in % is obtained by the following calculation method: "H iresr. [....................x iCCj -1....................x 100} TJ* Hey T :>' TÏWL T<

[0162] In which T0: average of the PIE level values at T0; Ti: average of the PIE level values at Ti (i = Ih in the present example); “P”: the measurement is relative to the product tested / to the site treated by the product tested; “Te”: the measurement is relative to the control / to the untreated site.

[0163] [Tables5] N= 24 Site Mean of 24 measurements ± SD P-value (mean value at treated site vs. untreated site) Mean change from baseline (± SD) Mean TEWL improvement rate in % P-value (T-test) baseline, T0 treated 9.08 + 1.73 p=0.346 NS / Not Significant untreated 9.34 + 1.95 T1 hour treated 8.12 + 2.08 -0.96 + 0.79 -6.8% p=0.002 S / Significant untreated 8.98 + 1.99 -0.36 + 0.36

[0164] Conclusion: The formula according to the invention Ex25 significantly reduces the TEWL (transepidermal water loss) on the treated site compared to the control site (untreated), 1 hour after application. The composition of the present invention has a dermoprotective effect. 3- Test of effectiveness perceived by consumers

[0165] Formula tested: Ex25 Protocol:

[0166] Panel of 150 people; Duration of the test: 42 days; Frequency of application: 2 times a day, morning and evening; Application sites: on the face, eyes and lips.

[0167] Directions for use: “Use this product on the face, eyes and lips, twice a day, in the morning as a cleanser and in the evening as a makeup remover, for 42 days, instead of your usual cleanser and / or makeup remover. Start using the product at night. Apply the SPF 30 treatment (provided) in the morning, after using the product.”

[0168] The scale used by the panelists is a 1 to 5 scale, therefore in 5 points: 1. Agree; 2. Rather agree; 3. Neither agree nor disagree; 4. Rather disagree; 5. Disagree

[0169] The results obtained (average of responses from 150 panelists) (“% Agree”) are given in %, in the following table. Any result above 60% is considered a significant result. 28Questions: (the averages of the respective answers are given in %): Immediately after the 1st use, in the evening as a make-up remover Immediately after the 2nd use, in the morning as a cleanser After 21 days After 42 days The skin feels cleansed: 92.7% 95.3% 96.6% 94.9% The skin is clean: 94.7% 94.7% 94.6% 96.4% The product removes all impurities (oil, dirt, dust, pollution): 84.7% 89.8% 92.0% The product removes lip make-up: 90.6% 91.5% 91.8% The product removes face make-up: 95.2% 90.2% 91.1% The product removes eye make-up: 88.2% 88.1% 88.3% The skin is smooth: 66.7% 71.3% 75.5% 78.8% Skin is soft 73.3% 77.3% 81.6% 87.6% Skin texture appears refined: 42.0% 53.3% 61.9% 68.6% Complexion is refreshed: 74.0% 74.7% 81.6% 86.1% After application, no product residue is visible on the skin: 91.3% 90.7% 92.0% Pores appear clear: 48.0% 73.5% 74.5% Skin is soothed: 62.0% 70.7% 76.9% 76.6% Skin feels less tight: 74.0% 66.0% 67.3% 73.9% Skin appears healthier: 68.7% 73.3% 81.0% 84.7% Complexion is more even: 41.3% 56.0% 64.6% 74.5% Skin appears less dull: 64.6% 73.7% Skin is gently exfoliated: 44.0% 54.7% 64.6% 74.5% Skin appears purified, as if detoxified: 58.0% 69.3% 76.2% 80.3% Skin is regenerated, renewed: 62.6% 68.6% , The skin is soft like baby's skin: 46.7% 55.3% 63.9% 67.9% The skin is not sticky and greasy after application: 95.6% The product is gentle on the skin: 85.4% The product does not dry out the skin: 81.8% The product suits my skin type: 86.9% 4- Clinical test of ocular and cutaneous tolerance

[0171] The skin tolerance and ocular tolerance of a cosmetic product according to the present invention (formula Ex25) were evaluated by a product usage test under dermatological and ophthalmological controls, respectively.

[0172] Protocol: The panel used was 51 people; 6 men, 45 women; aged between 19 and 65 years; of all skin types; 49% of them reported having sensitive skin, 45% having sensitive eyes, and 14% being contact lens wearers. Duration of the test: 4 weeks; Number of applications per day of the product: 2 times per day; Application sites: on the face, eyes and lips.

[0173] Results:

[0174] - Dermatological result: product very well tolerated.

[0175] - Ophthalmological result: product very well tolerated.

[0176] - 94% of subjects reported that the product was suitable for the skin.

[0177] 5- Efficacy test for the peeling effect or desquamating effect

[0178] In this test, the peeling effect is related to the ability of the sample to induce corneocytes by detachment or peeling, at D13 (13 days) after topical treatment on EPISKIN® reconstructed skin (mono application, treatment over 20 min). Corneocyte detachment is indirectly quantified by measuring the total protein concentration in the rinsing liquid (BCA assay). The desquamation potential (corneocyte detachment) was evaluated on several formulas and compared to the effect of a 30% aqueous solution of glycolic acid (the reference). The responses are measured in pg / ml of proteins from the detached corneocytes. Three batches of Episkin are used for each study (n=3 per batch and per condition).

[0179] The evaluation of the peeling effect of the formulas in Table 7 is done by comparing the results of the tested formula with that obtained with 30% glycolic acid in water (Ref.) forming the reference line representing 100% effectiveness.

[0180] [Tables?] INCI Ref. Cp3 Cp5 Cp7 Cpl3 Exl5 Exl6 WATER 70 98.81 97.37 97.08 95.19 94.10 93.17 GLYCERIN 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.06 1.06 1.06 GLUCONOLACTONE 1.00 1.00 1.00 GLYCOLIC ACID 30 1.00 0.41 0.41 0.41 1.00 COCO-BETAINE 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 POLOXAMER 184 0.50 0.50 0.50 POLYSORBATE 20 0.50 0.50 0.50 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.45 0.33 0.16 0.25 0.58 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Peeling Effect (% Ref.) 100 40 45 42 55 82 60

[0181] Results: A peeling effect of at least 60% was demonstrated with a micellar water according to the invention (Exl5, Exl6) combining PHA (gluconolactone), AHA (glycolic acid), amphoteric surfactant of betaine type (coco-betaine), and non-ionic surfactants (poloxamer 184, polysorbate 20). The tested formula Exl5 is the most effective for a peeling effect which reaches at least 80% of the reference level. In particular at Exl5, a peeling effect greater than 80% was demonstrated with a micellar water according to the invention combining 1% gluconolactone, 0.41% glycolic acid, 0.5% poloxamer and 0.5% polysorbate 20. On the contrary, for the other formulas not in accordance with the invention (Cp3 to Cp7), the peeling effect is insufficient, because it is less than 50% of the reference level.

[0182] 6- Evaluation of the impact of different ingredients on the peeling effect

[0183] Test used: As in the previous test, the peeling or desquamating effect is linked to the sample capacity to induce corneocyte detachment after topical treatment on D13 EpiSkin reconstructed epidermis. Corneocyte detachment is indirectly quantified by measuring the total protein concentration in the rinsing liquid (BCA assay). The objective is to evaluate the effectiveness of Poloxamer 184, Hexylene Glycol and Polysorbate 20, tested alone or in different combinations, on the peeling effect.

[0184] The peeling effect (detachment of corneocytes) was evaluated on several formulas and 3 simplex (% in water) described in table 8 below:

[0185] [Tables8] INCI US Ref Exl8 Ex20 Ex22 Ex24 Cp27 Cp28 Cp29 WATER 70 96.50 96.50 96.00 94.00 99.50 98.00 99.5 GLYCERIN 1.06 1.06 1.06 1.06 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 2.00 2.00 GLUCONOLACTONE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 GLYCOLIC ACID 30 0.41 0.41 0.41 0.41 COCO-BETAINE 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 POLOXAMER 184 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 POLYSORBATE 20 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Peeling Effect (% Ref.) 100 92 60 88 95 50 30 52

[0186] Under the experimental conditions of this study (mono application, 20 min):

[0187] - The peeling effect of the formulas according to the invention (Exl8, 20, 22, 24) is confirmed;

[0188] - No peeling effect was observed with the 3 simplex formulas (Cp27, 28, 29): Poloxamer 184 (0.5%), Hexylene glycol (2%) or Polysorbate 20 (0.5%) in water.

[0189] - The presence of poloxamer in formulas Exl8, 22, 24 boosts the peeling effect which is of the order of 90% of that of the reference (100%) of glycolic acid at 30% in water.

[0190] A clear improvement in the peeling effect, or even a synergistic effect, is observed by combining the non-ionic poloxamer surfactant and the “PHA, AHA, and amphoteric coco-betaine surfactant base”, in examples 18, 22 and 24 according to the invention.

[0191] - The association of active ingredients according to a weight content of PHA > AHA > coco-betaine and poloxamer in the compositions according to the invention, not only exceeds the peeling effects of each of the ingredients taken alone (there is a synergy), but above all these formulas present an effectiveness comparable to that of the reference glycolic acid at 30% in water.

[0192] In conclusion, the tested associations in accordance with the present invention provide a peeling benefit comparable to that of the glycolic acid reference. 7- Micellarity measurement:

[0193] Tensiometry data for formula Ex25 showed a decreasing slope of surface tension and after a certain concentration, the surface tension no longer changes. The intersection of the slope and the surface tension plateau indicates the presence of micelles in the formula.

[0194] DLS plots showed a peak around 5-10 nm which corresponds to the presence of micelles in the Ex25 formula, whereas no such peak was observed in the placebo.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for removing make-up and / or cleansing keratinous materials from the face, preferably micellar water, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: - at least one polyhydroxy acid (PHA), - at least one hydroxy acid chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and / or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), - at least one amphoteric surfactant of betaine type, - and at least one non-ionic surfactant; in which: - said polyhydroxy acid is chosen from: dihydroxy-propanoic acid, glyceric acid; trihydroxy-butanoic acid, such as erythronic acid or threonic acid; tetrahydroxy-pentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxy-hexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactose, galactonic acid, talonic acid; hexhydroxy-heptanoic acid such as glucohep-tanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid, malto-bionic acid, their salts or their lactone forms such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof; - said alpha-hydroxy acid(s) (AHA) is chosen from: glycolic acid; citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures thereof; - said beta-hydroxy acid(s) (BHA) is chosen from: salicylic acid and its derivatives chosen from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoysalicylic acid and 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which: - the weight ratio of polyhydroxy acid(s) to hydroxy acid(s) (AHA and / or BHA) is greater than 1; and / or - the weight ratio of polyhydroxy acid(s) to amphoteric surfactant(s) of betaine type is greater than 1; and / or - the weight ratio of hydroxy acid(s) (AHA and / or BHA) to amphoteric surfactant(s) of betaine type is greater than 1; preferably the weight content of polyhydroxy acid(s) is greater than the weight content of hydroxy acid(s) (AHA and / or BHA), itself greater than the weight content of betaine surfactant(s), by weight over the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from: lactobionic acid, galactose, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, and mixtures thereof; preferably, preferably the polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone, the lactone ring preferably being saturated, preferably chosen from gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof; preferably said polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the PHA(s) are present in the composition in a content in the range of 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 4%, preferably 0.5 to 3%, preferably 1 to 2% by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: - said alpha-hydroxy acid(s) (AHA) is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and their salts; more particularly the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and their mixtures, and preferably said AHA is glycolic acid; and / or - said BHA is salicylic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) and / or beta-hydroxy acid(s) are present in a content within the range of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3%, and better still 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.5%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.2 to 0.8%, by weight (of active ingredient) relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl betaines, such as cocobetaine and / or laurylbetaine, and N-alkylamido betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine; sultaines, such as cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine; preferably from alkyl betaines, more preferably said amphoteric surfactant is cocobetaine.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) of betaine type are present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.1 to 0.5%, by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said non-ionic surfactant is chosen from: polyol fatty acid esters, and in particular fatty acid glyceryl esters, such as PEG-6 Caprylic / capric glycerides fatty acid ester; polycondensates, in particular oxypropylenated oxyethylene block polymers such as poloxamers; sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as sorbitan monostearate, and their oxyethylene derivatives, such as polysorbates; alkylpolyglycosides, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as for example decylglucoside; caprylyl / capryl glucoside; laurylglucoside; and coco-glucoside; and mixtures thereof;preferably said non-ionic surfactant comprises at least one polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate, preferably of the following chemical structure: H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH, formula in which a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably a ranges from 10 to 130, and b ranges from 20 to 80.;

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

11.

12.

13. preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one first non-ionic surfactant chosen from poloxamers and at least one second non-ionic surfactant chosen from: polyol fatty acid esters; sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as sorbitan monostearate, and their oxyethylene derivatives, such as polysorbates; alkylpolyglycosides, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) having an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as for example decylglucoside; caprylyl / capryl glucoside; laurylglucoside; and coco-glucoside; preferably said non-ionic surfactant(s) comprise a poloxamer and a polysorbate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 50% water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble in water at 25°C, advantageously chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof; preferably the composition comprises from 50 to 99% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 70 to 98% by weight, preferably from 80 to 98% by weight, preferably from 85 to 97% by weight of water and / or from 0.01 to 15% by weight of organic solvent, preferably from 0.5 to 13% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is single-phase, preferably transparent, preferably colorless, preferably it has the same appearance as water, and in particular the same texture as liquid water at ambient conditions of temperature (25°C) and pressure (100 kPa), preferably the composition contains less than 1% by weight of hydrophilic polymer, or even better is completely free of hydrophilic polymers, such as cellulose derivatives, in particular carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose; the polymers po- Carbomer-type lycarboxyvinyl esters; acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers; polyacrylamides and acrylamide copolymers.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a turbidity less than or equal to 20 NTU, preferably less than 15 NTU, preferably less than 10 NTU; preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is in the range of 0.1 to 10 NTU, and preferably of 1 to 10 NTU.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a micellar water or a two-phase, preferably in the form of a micellar water; in particular characterized in that it contains free micelles, detectable in particular by DLS “dynamic light scattering” spectroscopic analysis based on the principle of dynamic light diffusion, said micelles preferably having a median diameter D50 in the range of 1 to 40 nm, preferably 2 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 10 nm.

16. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content by weight of surfactant(s) in the composition corresponds to a concentration of surfactant(s) greater than the critical micellar concentration (CMC) of said surfactant(s) in the composition, said CMC preferably being determined by tensiometry.

17. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of fatty substances, in particular fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature (25°C), such as oil, if the composition contains any, does not exceed 2% by weight, preferably does not exceed 1% by weight, preferably does not exceed 0.5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 0.2%, or even does not exceed 0.1% by weight, of the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is devoid, or even totally devoid of fatty substances, in particular liquid fatty substances, such as oil.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a PHA, an AHA, an amphoteric surfactant of betaine type and at least one non-ionic surfactant, in which the weight content of PHA is greater than the weight content of AHA, itself greater than the weight content of amphoteric surfactant of betaine type, and the non-ionic surfactant comprises at least at least one poloxamer; preferably said composition contains gluconolactone, glycolic acid, coco-betaine, at least one poloxamer, and a polysorbate; preferably the aqueous composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 2% of gluconolactone, from 0.1 to 1% of glycolic acid, from 0.1 to 1% of coco-betaine, from 0.1 to 1% of poloxamer, and optionally from 0.1 to 1% of polysorbate, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Cosmetic use of the composition according to one of the preceding claims for removing make-up and / or cleaning keratin materials from the face, preferably from the skin and / or mucous membranes such as lips, eyelids, and / or keratin fibers such as eyelashes.

20. Process for removing make-up and / or cleaning keratin materials from the face, preferably from the skin and / or mucous membranes such as the lips, eyelids, and / or keratin fibers such as eyelashes, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18.