COMPOSITION COMPRISING IONICALLY CROSSLINKED POLYMER AND NON-VOLATILE NON-SILICONE OIL AND NON-VOLATILE SILICONE

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING IONICALLY CROSSLINKED POLYMER AND NON-VOLATILE NON-SILICONE OIL AND NON-VOLATILE SILICONE The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer, formed by (a-1) at least one cationic polymer, and (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or one or more salts thereof; (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil; (c) at least one silicone and (d) water. The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures such as the feeling of moisture as well as good alignment and durability of combability. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING IONICALLY CROSSLINKED POLYMER AND NON-VOLATILE NON-SILICONE OIL AND NON-SILICONE VOLATILE Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more ionically crosslinked polymer(s), one or more non-volatile silicone oil(s) and one or more non-volatile silicone(s), as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. CONTEXT OF ART

[0002] An ionically crosslinked polymer is already known which can be in the form of a particle and can be formed with a cationic polymer and, generally, an anionic polymer.

[0003] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises, in one embodiment, at least one polyion complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also indicates that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and may take the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] It has been discovered that when a composition comprising an ionically crosslinked polymer is used for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers such as hair, textures such as wet feel as well as alignment and manageability of the treated keratin fibers should be improved.

[0005] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising an ionically crosslinked polymer, which can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures such as moisture sensation, good alignment and good styling durability.

[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

[0007] (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer, formed by

[0008] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer and

[0009] (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) of the latter;

[0010] (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil;

[0011] (c) at least one silicone and

[0012] (d) water.

[0013] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group.

[0014] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, cationic (co)polyaminoic acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and their salts.

[0015] The (a-1) cationic polymer may comprise at least one cationic cellulose polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.

[0016] The amount of the cationic (a-1) polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The non-polymeric acid (a-2) having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof may be an organic acid or salts thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salts thereof and, preferably, a phytic acid or salts thereof.

[0018] The amount (a-2) of non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The non-volatile non-silicone oil (b) can be chosen from vegetable oils.

[0020] The quantity of the (b) non-volatile non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, and better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (c) silicone may comprise:

[0022] (c-1) at least one first silicone, preferably selected from dimethicones, with a dynamic viscosity of 100 µs or less, more preferably 50 µs or less and, even more preferably, 10 µs or less, at 25°C and

[0023] (c-2) at least one second silicone, preferably chosen from dimethicones, with a dynamic viscosity of 1,000 µs or more, 10,000 µs or more, and preferably 1,000,000 µs or more, at 25°C.

[0024] The amount of the (c) silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 20% by weight and, better still, between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The amount (d) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and, more preferably, from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for the hair and, even better, a cosmetic composition for hair care.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care process for keratin materials, in particular with:

[0028] the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention and

[0029] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0030] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition capable of providing keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures such as improved moisture sensation as well as good alignment and styling durability.

[0031] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0032] (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer, formed by

[0033] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer and

[0034] (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) of the latter;

[0035] (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil;

[0036] (c) at least one non-volatile silicone and

[0037] (d) water.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures such as an improved feeling of moisture. The smoothness and / or softness of the keratin fibers can also be improved. The improved textures can be maintained for a long period of time, even under humid conditions.

[0039] The composition according to the present invention can also provide the kera-fibers Unique such as hair improved detangling in wet conditions. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be preferably used, for example, in a bathroom or in rainy weather.

[0040] The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with better alignment (keratin fibers can be straighter or the volume of keratin fibers can be reduced) and styling durability (better alignment can be durable). Thus, keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can be straight with low volume and can maintain the straight shape with low volume for a long time, even under humid conditions.

[0041] The composition according to the present invention can also confer an anti-frizz property on keratin fibers such as hair.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention can also provide keratin fibers such as hair with a better ability to recover the shape of the keratin fibers. Thus, keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can easily recover the shape of the keratin fibers when treated.

[0043] The composition, process and other properties according to the present invention will be described in more detail hereinafter.

[0044] [Ionically crosslinked polymer]

[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer which may be formed by (a-1) at least one cationic polymer and (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof, as explained below. In other words, the ionically crosslinked polymer (a) may comprise (a-1) at least one cationic polymer and (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof.

[0046] The ionically crosslinked polymer (a) may form a polyionic complex. For example, if the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic polymer, explained below, the ionically crosslinked polymer (a) may form a polyionic complex with the anionic polymer.

[0047] The (a) ionically crosslinked polymer or polyionic complex may take the form of a particle. Two or more different types of particles may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of particle or a combination of different types of particles may be used.

[0048] If the ionically crosslinked polymer or polyionic complex is in particle form, the particle size may be between 5 nm and 100 qm, preferably from 100 nm to 50 qm, more preferably from 200 nm to 40 qm and, even more preferably again, from 500 nm to 30 itm. A particle size less than 1 μm can be measured by a dynamic light scattering method and a particle size greater than 1 μm can be measured by an optical microscope. This particle size can be based on the number average diameter.

[0049] The amount of particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Furthermore, the amount of particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] The amount of particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] A plurality of particles may be present at the interface between (d) water and at least (b) non-volatile non-silicone oil. Thus, the particles may stabilize an emulsion. For example, if (d) water constitutes a continuous phase and at least (b) non-volatile non-silicone oil constitutes dispersed phases, the particles may form an O / W emulsion which may be similar to a Pickering emulsion.

[0053] Alternatively, a plurality of particles may form a capsule having a hollow. At least (b) the non-volatile non-silicone oil (b) may be present in the hollow. In other words, at least (b) the non-volatile non-silicone oil may be incorporated into the capsule. The wall of the capsule may be composed of a continuous layer or film formed from the particles. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the particles may be rearranged at the interface between (d) water and at least (b) the non-volatile non-silicone oil to spontaneously form a capsule having a hollow to include the oil. For example, a continuous phase consisting of the water (d) and dispersed phases consisting of at least (b) the non-volatile non-silicone oil in the capsule may form an O / W emulsion which may also be similar to a Pickering emulsion.

[0054] This would mean that the particle itself is amphiphilic. The particle itself is insoluble in oil or water.

[0055] (Cationic polymer)

[0056] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a-1) at least one cationic polymer. The cationic polymer (a-1) may be ionically crosslinked.

[0057] There is no limit to the type of cationic polymer (a-1). Two or more different types of cationic polymers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers tionics can be used.

[0058] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polymer (a-1) may be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g and, more preferably, between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0059] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-1) cationic polymer is equal to or greater than 500, preferably equal to or greater than 1,000, more preferably equal to or greater than 2,000, and even more preferably equal to or greater than 3,000.

[0060] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight number.

[0061] The cationic polymer (a-1) may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "(primary) amine group" herein means a -NH2 group.

[0062] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0063] The (a-1) cationic polymer may be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of (a-1) cationic polymers are given below.

[0064] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic esters and amides or methacrylic and comprising at least one unit chosen from the units of the following formulas: O 0 W § IX AA TO i ! ---Rs Rf' ''R; | R;' ' Rv Rs R; -------Q------. 0^0 NH X' HAS R$--R'—R§ RS

[0065] in which:

[0066] R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl and ethyl groups;

[0067] R3, which may be the same or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3;

[0068] the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0069] R4, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, are chosen from groups alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and

[0070] X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anions and halides, for example chloride and bromide.

[0071] The copolymers of family (1) above may also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with (C1-C4) lower alkyl groups, groups derivatives of acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam and vinyl esters.

[0072] Here are some examples of copolymers of family (1):

[0073] copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

[0074] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0 080 976,

[0075] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate,

[0076] copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate or acrylate, quaternized or not, described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

[0077] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,

[0078] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers and

[0079] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.

[0080] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers marketed under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0081] It is preferred that the cationic cellulose polymers have at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a trialkyl quaternary ammonium group and, more preferably, a trimethyl quaternary ammonium group.

[0082] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a group containing a quaternary ammonium group which may be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0083] in which

[0084] each of the groups R 1 and R 2 denotes a C 1 -C 3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group and, better still, a methyl group,

[0085] R3 denotes a Cr C24> alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group and, better still, a methyl group,

[0086] X- denotes an anion, preferably a halide and, even better, a chloride,

[0087] n denotes an integer between 0 and 30, preferably between 0 and 10 and, better yet, equal to 0, and

[0088] R4 denotes a Cr C4> alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0089] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the above chemical formula (I) can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0090] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium is -O-CH2 -CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0091] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted with, for example, a salt selected from methacryloyl-ethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium salts.

[0092] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products marketed under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company National Starch.

[0093] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US patents Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example the chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) may also be used.

[0094] These products are marketed, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0095] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and alkylene groups or divalent hydroxyalkylene polymers comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

[0096] (6) Water-soluble polyamino-amides prepared, for example, by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino-amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity chosen from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; biunsaturated derivatives; bishalo-hydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacydiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity chosen from bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyl-diamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; dihydroxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of polyaminoamides; these polyaminoamides being optionally alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0097] (7) Polyamino-amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of po- lyalkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with di-functional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0098] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid may vary from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting from this reaction with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0099] (9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, at least one unit chosen from the units of formulas (Ia) and (Ib): fCHJk (Ia) ..HAS \ CSR HR --(OHg)t — ÇRi 2 X Ç(R --CHA— HgCk .CHg X. XH""" Rio

[0100] in which:

[0101] k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

[0102] R12 is chosen from hydrogen and methyl groups;

[0103] Rio and Rn, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and lower amidoalkyl groups (Ci-C4), or R10 and Ru may form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl and

[0104] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

[0105] In one embodiment, Rio and Ru, which may be the same or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0106] Among these polymers, mention may be made, in particular, of (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the homopolymer of dimethyldiethylammonium chloride (polyquaternium-6) marketed under the name “MERQUAT® 100” by the company CALGON (and its low-weight average molecular weight homologues) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide marketed under the name “MERQUAT® 550”.

[0107] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): Ra (ll) ....... rqv...A^^ | x" | r Rh Ru

[0108] in which:

[0109] Rn, Ru, Rb and R16, which may be the same or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and aliphatic aryl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or Rn, Rm, R[5 and R16, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles alternatively comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R13, R14, R15, and R16 which may be the same or different, are selected from linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from alkyl groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups and -CO-NH-R17-E groups, where R17 is an alkylene group and E is an ammonium group quaternary;

[0110] Ai and Bb which may be identical or different, are chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and

[0111] X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0112] it being understood that Ab Rn and Ri5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine cycle;

[0113] if Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:

[0114] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-

[0115] where E' is chosen from:

[0116] a) glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, where Z is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups and groups of the following formulas:

[0117] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-

[0118] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-

[0119] where x and y, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;

[0120] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

[0121] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups and the divalent group -CH 2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH 2 -CH2-. and

[0122] d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0123] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0124] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patents Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0125] Among the non-limiting examples of these polymers are those comprising at least one unit of repeating formula (III): Ru Ris (in) IX | X " Ru Ru

[0126] in which Rn, RM, R[5 and R[6, which may be the same or different, are chosen from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

[0127] (11) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV): — MMGHgVNH-OOHCHg)—H*—A— Ru X" Rïi

[0128] in which:

[0129] Ri8, Rw, R2o and R2i, which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl, -CH 2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH] groups, where p is chosen from integers between 0 and 6, under provided that R[8, R19, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

[0130] r and s, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6,

[0131] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

[0132] - X denotes an anion, such as a halide and

[0133] A is chosen from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0134] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324.

[0135] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0136] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0137] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products marketed under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallyl chloride marketed under the names MERQUAT®, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0138] (13) Polyamines

[0139] As the (a-1) cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the backbone of a polymer or in a pendant group, if present, of the (co)polyamines.

[0140] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylenemethacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyomithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals and their salts.

[0141] As (co)polyamines, it is preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, commonly used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.

[0142] (14) Cationic polyamino acids

[0143] As the (a-1) cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the backbone of a polymer or in a pendant group, if present, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, if present, of the cationic polyamino acids.

[0144] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

[0145] The following descriptions relate to preferable embodiments of the (a-1) cationic polymer.

[0146] It may be preferable to choose the (a-1) cationic polymer from among the cationic starches.

[0147] Examples of cationic starches include starches modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g. chloride), such as the product called starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to the INC1 nomenclature and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 from Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 from Ingredion.

[0148] It may also be preferable to choose the (a-1) cationic polymer from among the cationic gums.

[0149] The gums may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum and gum arabic.

[0150] Examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives, e.g. CTFA: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the Jaguar™ series of trade names from Rhodia Inc. and the N-Hance series of trade names from Ashland Inc. Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the brand names Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. or ClearHance™ from Ashland Inc.

[0151] It may be preferable that (a-1) the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dial-kyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, (co)polyamino cationic acids such as cationized collagen, cationic polymers and their salts.

[0152] It may also be preferable to choose the (a-1) cationic polymer from among cationic cellulosic polymers.

[0153] It may be preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer comprises at least one cationic cellulosic polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.

[0154] In one embodiment of the present invention, a cationic cellulosic polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be used as (a-1) cationic polymer. In another embodiment of the present invention, a cationic cellulosic polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms and one or more other cationic polymers which are different from the cationic cellulosic polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be used together. Examples of the other cationic polymer are as described above.

[0155] It is preferable that the cationic cellulosic polymer has at least one ring structure in the polymer backbone.

[0156] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group. It is preferable that the quaternary ammonium group comprises at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms.

[0157] The fatty chain may have 10 or more carbon atoms. In contrast, the fatty chain may have 30 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 20 or fewer, and more preferably 15 or fewer.

[0158] It may be preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms is a quaternized cellulose derivative modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, aryl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 10 carbon atoms. For example, if the fatty chain is an alkyl radical, the alkyl radical carried by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0159] more preferably, the cationic cellulosic polymer may comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group such as a C8-C30 alkyl group.

[0160] More preferably, the cationic cellulosic polymer may be a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain, preferably a C8-C30 hydrocarbon group, and more preferably a C8-C30 alkyl group. This cationic cellulosic polymer may be referred to as a quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl cellulose containing a C8-C30 fatty chain.

[0161] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C12 alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL-60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, Softcat SK-L, Softcat SK-M and Softcat SK-H, marketed by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel, QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company Croda.

[0162] The cationic cellulosic polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms may be selected from the group consisting of Polyquatemium-24, Polyquatemium-67 and mixtures thereof. Polyquatemium-67 is preferable.

[0163] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include a cationic polymer with a high positive charge density such as poly-quaternium-6.

[0164] The amount of (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] Furthermore, the amount of the cationic (a-1) polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, even better, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] The amount of the cationic (a-1) polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5%. by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] (Anionic polymer)

[0168] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one anionic polymer. If the composition according to the present invention comprises the anionic polymer(s), the ionically crosslinked polymer(s) may form one or more polyionic complexes with the anionic polymer(s).

[0169] The type of anionic polymer is not limited. Two or more different types of anionic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polymer or a combination of different types of anionic polymers may be used.

[0170] An anionic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the anionic polymer may be from 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 1 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably, from 4 to 10 meq / g if the anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, and the average degree of substitution of the anionic polymer may be from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.7 and, more preferably, from 0.01 to 2.5 if the anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer.

[0171] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is greater than or equal to 300, preferably greater than or equal to 1,000, more preferably equal to or greater than 5,000, even more preferably greater than or equal to 10,000, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50,000 and even more preferably greater than or equal to 1,000,000 or more.

[0172] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means a number average molecular mass.

[0173] The anionic polymer may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a sulfuric group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic group, a sulfonate group, a phosphoric group, a phosphate group, a phosphonic group, a phosphonate group, a carboxylic group and a carboxylate group.

[0174] The anionic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0175] The anionic polymer may be chosen from natural and synthetic anionic polymers.

[0176] The anionic polymer may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.

[0177] The anionic polymer, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, may be obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (a) chosen from car- carboxylic acids comprising α,[3-ethylenic unsaturation (monomer a') and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer a") with a non-surface-active monomer (b) comprising ethyl unsaturation other than (a) and / or a monomer (c) comprising ethyl unsaturation resulting from the reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation or a monomer comprising monoethylenic unsaturation with a non-ionic amphiphilic monohydric component or with a primary or secondary amine.

[0178] Thus, the anionic polymer with at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained by two synthetic routes:

[0179] - either by copolymerization of the monomers (a1) and (c), or (a1), (b) and (c), or (a") and (c), or (a"), (b) and (c),

[0180] - either by modification (and in particular by esterification or amidation) of a co polymer formed from monomers (a1) or monomers (a'") and (b), or (a) and (b), by an amphiphilic non-ionic monohydric compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0181] Mention may in particular be made, as copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, of those mentioned in the article “Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704 » (Formation of micelles of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water, as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704) and in applications EP-A-0 750 899 and EP-A-1 069 172.

[0182] The carboxylic acid comprising an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation constituting the monomer (a1) can be chosen from numerous acids and, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Preferably it is acrylic or methacrylic acid.

[0183] The copolymer may comprise a (b) monomer comprising monoethylenic unsaturation which has no surfactant property. Preferred monomers are those which give water-insoluble polymers when homopolymerized. They may be chosen, for example, from alkyl acrylates and Cr C4> methacrylates such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. The most preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers which may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these monomers being those in which the A single ethylenic group is the only reactive group under polymerization conditions. However, monomers that include groups that react under heat, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, can be used as an option.

[0184] Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer comprising α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or an isocyanate monomer comprising monoethylenic unsaturation with a non-ionic monohydric amphiphilic compound or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

[0185] Nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomer (c) are well known. Nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds comprising an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic portion of the molecule. Hydrophobic compounds are generally composed of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol, in the compounds of which a carbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic portion of the amphiphilic compound.

[0186] Preferred non-ionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds are compounds having the following formula (V):

[0187] R-(OCH2CHR')m-(OCH2CH2)n-OH (V)

[0188] wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylaryl groups having alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R' is selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is an average number ranging from about 1 to 150 and m is an average number ranging from about 0 to 50, provided that n is at least as large as m.

[0189] Preferably, in the compounds of formula (V), the group R is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and alkylphenyl groups in which the alkyl group is Cc-Cn; the group R' is the methyl group; m = 0 and n = 1 to 25.

[0190] Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0191] The monomer used to form the non-ionic urethane monomer (c) may be chosen from a wide variety of compounds. Any compound comprising a copolymerizable unsaturation, such as an acrylic, methacrylic or allylic unsaturation, may be used. The monomer (c) may be obtained in particular from an isocyanate comprising a monoethylenic unsaturation such as, in particular, α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.

[0192] The monomer (c) may be chosen, in particular, from acrylates, metha acrylates or oxyethylated alcohol itaconates (1 to 50 EO) C6-C30> such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO), oxyethylenic monocetyl itaconate (20 EO), oxyethylethylated monostearyl itaconate (20 EO) or acrylate modified with polyoxyethylenic alcohols (25 EO) C12-C24 and among the dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanates of ethylated alcohol (1 to 50 EO) C6 -C30> such as, in particular, dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.

[0193] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the anionic polymer is selected from acrylic terpolymers obtained from (a) a carboxylic acid comprising α,[3-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) a non-surface active monomer comprising ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) a non-ionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a non-ionic monohydric amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate comprising monoethylenic unsaturation.

[0194] Mention may in particular be made, as anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain of the following compounds: acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymer, such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion marketed under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm & Haas; acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product marketed under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas; (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylenated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate terpopolymer, such as the product in the form of an aqueous emulsion marketed under the name Aculyn-28 by Rohm & Haas; acrylic acid / monocetyl oxyethylenated itaconate (20 EO) copolymer, such as the 30% aqueous dispersion product marketed as Structure 3001 by National Starch;acrylic acid / oxyethylenated monostearyl itaconate (20°EO) copolymer, such as the 30% aqueous dispersion product marketed under the name Structure 2001 by National Starch; acrylates / acrylate modified with polyoxyethylated (25 EO) alcohol copolymer Ci2-C24, such as the 30-32% copolymer latex marketed under the name Synthalen W2000 by 3V SA; or methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethyl-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymer, such as the 24% aqueous dispersion product comprising 40 ethylene oxide groups disclosed in EP-A-0 173 109.;

[0195] The anionic polymers may also be Polyester-5, such as the product marketed as Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL having the chemical formula below.

[0196] HO-GAGAGAGAGAGAGAGAG-OH

[0197] 11

[0198] SO3 Na+ SO3 Na+

[0199] A: dicarboxylic acid fraction

[0200] G: glycol fraction

[0201] SO3 Na+: sodium sulfo group

[0202] OH: hydroxyl group

[0203] It may be preferable that the anionic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulosic polymers (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acids, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acids, (co)polyamic acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acids, (co)polyfumaric acids, (co)polymers of maleic acids and their salts.

[0204] The maleic acid copolymer may comprise one or more maleic acid comonomers, and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and styrene.

[0205] By "maleic acid copolymer" is meant any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic acid comonomers and one or more comonomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic acid comonomers being optionally partially or completely hydrolyzed. Hydrophilic polymers will preferably be used, i.e. polymers having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 2 g / l.

[0206] In an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the maleic acid copolymer may have a mole fraction of maleic acid units of between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

[0207] The weight average molar mass of the maleic acid copolymer may be between 1,000 and 500,000 and, preferably, between 1,000 and 50,000.

[0208] It is preferable that the maleic acid copolymer is a styrene / maleic acid copolymer and, more preferably, a styrene / maleic acid copolymer.

[0209] A copolymer of styrene and maleic acid in a 50 / 50 ratio will preferably be used.

[0210] For example, the styrene / maleic acid copolymer (50 / 50) can be used, in the form of 30% ammonium salt in water, marketed under the reference SMA1000H® by Cray Valley or the styrene / maleic acid copolymer (50 / 50), under 40% sodium salt form in water, marketed under the reference SMAlOOOHNa® by Cray Valley.

[0211] The use of styrene / maleic acid copolymer such as sodium styrene / maleic acid copolymer can improve the wettability of a film prepared by the composition according to the present invention.

[0212] According to one embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that the anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives.

[0213] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0215] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0216] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a di-saccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0217] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymer unit described above, linked together in the chain via alternating glycosidic bonds [3(1,4) and [3(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the methods of preparation.

[0218] The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. As salts, mention may be made of alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0219] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and, in particular, in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli process.

[0220] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid and its derivatives” includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular mass in particular in the molecular mass range recalled above.

[0221] In the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid fractions which do not have inflammatory activity are preferably used.

[0222] As an illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document “Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System”, R. Stem et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which examines the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular mass.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular mass of between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the term used is high molecular mass hyaluronic acid.

[0224] Alternatively, hyaluronic acid fractions which may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular mass of between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, the term used is intermediate molecular mass hyaluronic acid.

[0225] As a further alternative, the hyaluronic acid fractions which may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular mass of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the term used is low molecular mass hyaluronic acid.

[0226] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular, those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylated alkyls or alcohols, containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution at the level of the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid of between 0.5 and 50%.

[0227] Mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. These esters have in particular been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0228] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0229] The molecular masses indicated above are also valid for hyaluronic acid esters.

[0230] The hyaluronic acid may in particular be hyaluronic acid supplied by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 10 ...

[0231] The amount of anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] The amount of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] The amount of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] The total amount of cationic and anionic polymers in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The total amount of cationic and anionic polymers in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The total amount of cationic and anionic polymers in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight and, better still, between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The ratio of the amount, for example the chemical equivalent, of the (a-1) cationic / anionic polymer(s) may be 0.05-18, preferably 0.1-10, and most preferably 0.5-5.0. In particular, it may be preferable that the number of cationic groups (a-1) of the cationic polymer(s) / the number of anionic groups of the anionic polymer(s) is 0.05-18, more preferably 0.1-10, and even more preferably 0.5-5.0.

[0238] (Non-polymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants)

[0239] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof, i.e. at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants or salt(s) thereof. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25°C.

[0240] The non-polymeric acid (a-2) having two or more pKa values ​​can act as a crosslinker for the cationic polymer (a-1). The cationic polymer(s) (a-1) can be ionically crosslinked by the non-polymeric acid(s) (a-2) having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof.

[0241] The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers such as polycarboxylic acid.

[0242] It is preferable that the molecular weight of (a-2) the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof is less than or equal to 1000, preferably less than or equal to 800 and, more preferably, less than or equal to 700.

[0243] There is no limit to the type (a-2) of non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof. Two or more different types of non-polymeric acids having at least two pKa values ​​or their salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values ​​or salts thereof may be used.

[0244] Herein, the term "salt" means a salt formed by the addition of suitable base(s) to the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from a reaction with the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example salts containing alkali metals such as Na and K and salts containing alkaline earth metals such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

[0245] (a-2) Non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof may be an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof.

[0246] The non-polymeric acid (a-2) having two or more pKa values ​​may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of a car- carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group and a mixture of these groups.

[0247] The non-polymeric acid (a-2) having two or more pKa values ​​may be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid.

[0248] The non-polymeric acid (a-2) having two or more pKa values ​​may be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids and diphosphoric acids, as well as a mixture thereof.

[0249] The non-polymeric acid (a-2) having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid and their salts; aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their salts; sulfonic terephthalylidene dicamphor acid or their salts (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid and its salts;Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brillant blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carminé), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B) et Black 401 (Naphthol Blue Black) ; l’acide folique, l’acide ascorbique, l’acide érythorbique et sels de ces derniers ; la cystine et sels de cette dernière, l’EDTA et ses sels;glycyrrhizin and its salts and a mixture thereof.;

[0250] It may be preferable that the non-polymeric acid (a-2) having at least two pKa values ​​or one or more of its salts is selected from the group consisting of terephthalidene sulfonic acid and its salts (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid and its salts, and a mixture thereof.

[0251] The amount of (a-2) non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or its salts in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 wt% or more, preferably 0.05 wt% or more and more preferably 0.1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] Furthermore, the amount of (a-2) non-polymeric acid having at least two values of pKa or one or more of its salts in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] The amount (a-2) of non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] [Non-volatile non-silicone oil]

[0255] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil. Two or more different types of non-volatile non-silicone oil may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of non-volatile non-silicone oil or a combination of different types of non-volatile non-silicone oils may be used.

[0256] Here, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0257] The term "non-volatile" means capable of remaining on a keratinous substance such as skin or a keratinous fiber such as hair for at least several hours at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. The non-volatile silicone may have a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0258] The non-volatile non-silicone oil(s) may be chosen from the group consisting of natural oils such as those of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils and mixtures thereof.

[0259] The (b) non-volatile, non-silicone oil(s) may be selected from non-polar oils such as hydrocarbon oils, polar oils such as vegetable or animal oils, ester oils and ether oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0260] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0261] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0262] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of mineral oil (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoicosane, polydecenes and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0263] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0264] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0265] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylic carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0266] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0267] Mention may in particular be made of the following compounds: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyl dodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0268] As ester oils, it is possible to use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0269] Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0270] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C3o fatty acids, and preferably Ci2- C22. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0271] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0272] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as tetraethyl pentaerythrityl hexanoate.

[0273] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0274] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0275] Examples of preferred ester oils that may be mentioned include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl 2-octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sar-cosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate isohexyl, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0276] The ester oils can be selected from artificial triglycerides.

[0277] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0278] As ether oil, mention may be made of dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0279] R'-O-R2

[0280] in which

[0281] each of the groups RI and R2 independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-18 alkyl group, and better still another C8-12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 are the same.

[0282] As a linear alkyl group, there may be mentioned a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a hep-tadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.

[0283] As a branched alkyl group, the following groups may be mentioned: a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an iso-tridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl, an l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0284] As the cyclic alkyl group, cyclohexyl group, 3-methylcyclohexyl group and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group may be mentioned.

[0285] It may be preferable that the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dimethylbutyl dodecyl ether, dimethylbutyl cetyl ether, isobutyl cetyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0286] It may be preferable that the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0287] The amount of the non-volatile, non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even better 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0288] Furthermore, the quantity (b) of the non-volatile, non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, even better, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0289] The quantity of the (b) non-volatile non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, and better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0290] [Silicone]

[0291] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one silicone. Two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used.

[0292] If two or more silicones are used, they are different from each other in terms of dynamic viscosity at 25°C.

[0293] It is preferable that (c) the silicone(s) is / are in the form of an oil.

[0294] Here, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0295] The (c) silicone may be chosen from non-phenyl silicones, phenyl silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0296] The term “non-phenyl silicones” refers to silicones not containing phenyl substituents.

[0297] Representative examples of such non-phenyl silicones that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyl dimethicones, vinyl methyl methicones, as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

[0298] Note that “dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

[0299] The non-phenyl silicone may preferably be chosen from dimethicone oils. These oils may in particular be chosen from the following oils:

[0300] - polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS);

[0301] - PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl groups or alkoxy, which are lateral and / or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. As an example, mention may be made of cetyldimethicone marketed under the commercial reference Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt;

[0302] - PDMS comprising aliphatic groups or functional groups such as than hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups;

[0303] - polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups;

[0304] - polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxy- alkylenes and

[0305] - their mixtures.

[0306] Preferably, these non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones and also PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C2-C24 alkyl groups. and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

[0307] The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (SI):

[0308] - X R2

[0309] in which:

[0310] RI, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0311] R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

[0312] X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, and

[0313] n and p are whole numbers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose dynamic viscosity at 25o°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 -6 m 2 / s) and 800000 cSt.

[0314] As non-phenyl silicone oils which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of those for which:

[0315] - the substituents RI to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the dynamic viscosity is 500,000 at 25°C, for example the product marketed under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product marketed under the name AK 500,000 by the company Wacker, the product marketed under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by the company Bluestar and the product marketed under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 by the company Dow Corning;

[0316] - the substituents RI to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the dynamic viscosity is 60,000 at 25°C, for example the marketed product under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60 000 CS by the Dow Corning company, and the product marketed under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the Wacker company;

[0317] - the substituents RI to R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the dynamic viscosity is 100 or 350 at 25°C, for example the products marketed respectively under the names Belsil DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning and

[0318] - the substituents RI to R6 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the dynamic viscosity is 700 is, for example the product marketed under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

[0319] The expression “phenyl silicones” designates silicones containing at least one phenyl substituent.

[0320] The phenyl silicones may be chosen from those which also have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not. According to the present invention, the dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit: - Si(CH3)2-O-.

[0321] The phenyl silicones can thus be chosen from: a. phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (S-II) below:

[0322] R ! RR | R0--g]-----R RR ri IIR R (S

[0323] in which the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent independently of each other a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.

[0324] Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six phenyl groups.

[0325] b) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (S-III) below:

[0326] RRR R----$ |--Q-----g '-----Q ----g j--R RR R. (S~1H)

[0327] in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.

[0328] Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (S-III) comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

[0329] Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above may be used.

[0330] Mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes may be mentioned as examples.

[0331] Among the compounds of formula (S-III), mention may be made more particularly of phenyl silicone oils not containing dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (S-III) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.

[0332] These phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are notably marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane marketed under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.

[0333] They correspond in particular to the formulas (S-IV) and (S-IV1) below:

[0334] Ph Ph Ph Me Ph Mb Ph OSi~€ Me Ph S-hV) Ph-éi—€ Me 3 Ph V Mb (S»r

[0335] where Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

[0336] c) phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment cor corresponding to the formula (SV) below:

[0337]

[0338] in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph).

[0339] d) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the formula (S-VI) below, and their mixtures:

[0340]

[0341] in which:

[0342] - Ri to Rio are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched radicals, hy carbons Ci-C30> independently of each other

[0343] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m+n+q is different from 0.

[0344] Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

[0345] Preferably, q is equal to 0.

[0346] More particularly, R 1 to R 10 , independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical C 1 -C 30 , and in particular a preferably saturated hydrocarbon radical C 1 -C 20 , in particular a C 1 -C 18 , a hydrocarbon radical or an aryl radical or a monocyclic or polycyclic aralkyl radical C 6 -C 14 , and in particular C 10 -C 13 , the alkyl part of which is preferably a C 1 -C alkyl

[0347] Preferably, Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio may in particular be identical and in addition be a methyl radical.

[0348] According to a particular embodiment of formula (S-VI), the following compounds may be mentioned:

[0349] i) phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (S-VII) below, and mixtures thereof:

[0350]

[0351] in which:

[0352] - R1 to R6, independently of each other, are saturated hydrocarbon radicals or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30, preferably a C6-CM aryl radical or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is a CrC alkyl and

[0353] - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

[0354] Preferably, R 1 to R 6 , independently of each other, represent a C 1 -C 2 o hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 8 , preferably alkyl or a C 6 -C 10 aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably C 6 ) or polycyclic and in particular C 10 -C 13 , or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is a C 6 aryl; the alkyl part is a C 1 -C 1 alkyl

[0355] Preferably, R 1 to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

[0356] R 1 to R 6 may in particular be identical and furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3 and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied in formula (S-VII).

[0357] According to a particular embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from non-volatile phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0358] Preferably, these oils correspond to compounds of formula (S-VII) in which:

[0359] A) m=0, and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6 are methyl radicals. According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 est), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 est), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 est), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 est).

[0360] B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0.

[0361] These phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one fragment of dimethicone correspond more particularly to the formula (S-VIII) below:

[0362]

[0363]

[0364]

[0365]

[0366]

[0367]

[0368]

[0369]

[0370]

[0371]

[0372] Me—'Si O — O Me M& (S-VHÎ) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OSiMe3 group and p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (S-VIII) is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment of phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that the compound (S-VIII) is a non-volatile oil. It is possible, for example, to use trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, marketed in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment of the phenyl silicone not comprising a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and is in particular such that the compound (S-VIII) is a non-volatile oil. For example, Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, marketed in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), can be used. (ii) phenyl silicone oils not containing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the formula (S-IX) below and their mixtures: in which: - R, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C3o hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a C1-C3o alkyl radical, preferably a C6-C14 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is a C1-C alkyl; and - m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R, independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, linear or branched C1-C30> and in

[0373]

[0374]

[0375]

[0376]

[0377]

[0378]

[0379]

[0380]

[0381]

[0382]

[0383]

[0384] in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, C1-C20, in particular C1-C18 and more particularly C4-C10, a hydrocarbon radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic radical C6-C14, and in particular C10-C13, an aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical of which the aryl part is preferably C6 aryl and the alkyl part is C1-C10 alkyl. Preferably, the R groups may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. The R groups can in particular be identical and in addition be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can apply m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (S-IX). According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (S-IX). Preferably, R is a methyl radical. According to one embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when n=0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, or Silbione 70663V30 oil from Poulenc (28 cSt). The values ​​in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C. e) phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula and mixtures thereof: RI SX ' If ■ . Y - ^3| O - SL Fp O ■ Si ■■ R2 Rd R8 R2 n in which: RI, R2, R5 and R6, which may be the same or different, are alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, which may be the same or different, are alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C6-Ci4), it being understood that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical; X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical and n and p is an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil an average molecular mass less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol and preferably less than 100,000 g / mol.

[0385] f) and a mixture thereof

[0386] According to the present invention, the (c) silicone(s) may be surrounded by a plurality of (a) ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in the form of particles or the (c) silicone(s) may be present in the hollow of a capsule formed by the (a) ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in the form of particles. In other words, (c) the silicone(s) may be covered by the (a) ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in the form of particles, or a capsule formed by the ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in the form of particles, may include the (c) silicone(s) in the hollow of the capsule.

[0387] The (c) silicone(s) which is / are surrounded by the (a) ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in the form of particles or present in the hollow of the capsule formed by the (a) ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in the form of particles cannot come into direct contact with a keratinous substance such as the scalp. Thus, even if the (c) silicone has a sticky or greasy feel in use, the composition according to the present invention would not offer a sticky or greasy feel in use.

[0388] (First and second silicones)

[0389] The (c) silicone for the composition according to the present invention may comprise:

[0390] (c-1) at least one first silicone with a dynamic viscosity equal to or less than 100 is, better still 50 is or less and, better still, 10 is or less, at 25°C and

[0391] (c-2) at least one second silicone with a dynamic viscosity of 1,000 or more, 10,000 or more, and better still 100,000 or more, at 25°C.

[0392] The lower limit of the dynamic viscosity of the (c-1) first silicone is not limited. The dynamic viscosity of the (c-1) first silicone may be 1 μs or more, preferably 2 μs or more, and more preferably 3 μs or more.

[0393] The upper limit of the dynamic viscosity of the (c-2) second silicone is not limited. The dynamic viscosity of the (c-2) second silicone may be 1,000,000 μs or less, preferably 800,000 μs or less, and more preferably 600,000 μs or less.

[0394] Dynamic viscosity may be measured in accordance with ASTM D445 at 25°C.

[0395] The (c-1) first silicone may be volatile. The second (c-2) silicone may be non-volatile.

[0396] The term "volatile" means being capable of evaporating upon contact with a substance keratinous material such as skin or a keratinous fiber such as hair in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile silicone may be a liquid at room temperature (25°C) and may have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0397] If the (c-1) first silicone is volatile, it is preferable that the (c-1) first silicone has a dynamic viscosity < 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) at 25°C.

[0398] The term "non-volatile" means capable of remaining on a keratinous substance such as skin or a keratinous fiber such as hair for at least several hours at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. The non-volatile silicone may be a liquid at room temperature (25°C) and have a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0399] It is preferable to choose the (c-1) first silicone and the (c-2) second silicone from dialkylpolysiloxanes and, even better, dimethhypolylsiloxanes, i.e. dimethicones.

[0400] It is preferable to choose the first silicone (c-1) among the dimethicones.

[0401] As (c-1) first silicone, for example, Dowsil™ SH fluid can be used. 200 (5 est) or Xiameter™ PMX-200 5 est silicone fluid from Dow.

[0402] It is preferable to choose the second silicone (c-2) among the dimethicones.

[0403] As (c-2) second silicone, for example, Dowsil™ SH fluid can be used. 200 (300,000 est) or Xiameter™ PMX-200 (500,000 est) silicone fluid from Dow.

[0404] The amount of the (c-1) first silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0405] The amount of the first (c-1) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0406] The amount of the (c-1) first silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0407] The amount of the (c2) second silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0408] Furthermore, the amount of the (c-2) second silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0409] The amount of the (c-2) second silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0410] (Total quantity)

[0411] The total amount of the (c-1) first silicone and the (c-2) second silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0412] Furthermore, the amount of the first (c-1) silicone and the second (c-2) silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0413] The amount of the (c-1) first silicone and the (c-2) second silicone in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 20% by weight, and better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0414] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water:

[0415] The amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0416] Furthermore, the amount (d) of water may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and, more preferably, 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0417] The amount (d) of water may be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and, more preferably, from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PH

[0418] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5 and, even better, from 3.5 to 8.

[0419] At a pH between 3 and 9, the composition according to the present invention can be very stable.

[0420] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid, other than (a-2) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salts thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0421] (Alkaline agent)

[0422] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0423] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is possible that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0424] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As an inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide is preferable.

[0425] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives and guanidine and its derivatives.

[0426] Examples of organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine and diamines such as those described in the structure below: Ri 0*2 . I KO NRN 2 R4

[0427] wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rh R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, as exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.

[0428] The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0429] (Acid)

[0430] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0431] As the acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, which are commonly used in cosmetic products. A monovalent acid and / or a polyvalent acid may be used. A monovalent acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used. HCl is preferable.

[0432] The acid(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0433] (Buffering agent)

[0434] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one buffering agent. Two or more buffering agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of buffering agent or a combination of different types of buffering agents may be used.

[0435] As a buffering agent, there may be mentioned an acetate buffer (e.g., acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (e.g., sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (e.g., citric acid + sodium citrate), a borate buffer (e.g., boric acid + sodium borate), a tartrate buffer (e.g., tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), a Tris buffer (e.g., tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane) and a Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l-pipeineethanesulfonic acid). Fatty alcohol

[0436] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of fatty alcohols may be used.

[0437] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more carbon atoms, preferably 8 or more, and most preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0438] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0439] As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, pahnitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0440] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0441] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0442] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0443] The amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0444] Furthermore, the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0445] The amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-silicone volatile oil

[0446] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one volatile non-silicone oil. If two or more volatile non-silicone oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0447] Herein, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0448] The term "volatile" means being capable of evaporating upon contact with a keratinous substance such as skin or a keratinous fiber such as hair in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile silicone may have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0449] The non-silicone volatile oil can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0450] As examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular isoalkanes of petroleum origin, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example petroleum distillates, in particular those marketed under the name Shell or by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE 10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.

[0451] Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) is / are chosen from C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane or isohexadecane; C8-C16 linear alkanes such as an undecane / tridecane mixture and mixtures thereof.

[0452] The amount of the non-silicone volatile oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and better still 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0453] Furthermore, the amount of the volatile, non-silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, even better, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0454] The quantity of the non-silicone volatile oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, and better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Optional additives

[0455] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components generally used in cosmetics, in particular, surfactants (in particular, non-ionic surfactants) or emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, volatile or non-volatile organic solvents, hydrophilic or hydrophobic UV filters, silicones and derivatives of silicone other than ingredients (b) and (c), natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, waxes, and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0456] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional additive(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition

[0457] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is fluid and comprises

[0458] (a-1) the cationic polymer(s) and (a-2) the non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof, forming (a) the ionically crosslinked polymer(s) which may be in particulate form,

[0459] (b) the non-volatile, preferably vegetable, silicone oil,

[0460] the (c-1) first silicone,

[0461] the (c-2) second silicone and

[0462] (d) water

[0463] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to keratin fibers. Keratin fibers herein refer to fibers containing keratin as the main element, and examples include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for keratin fibers and, more preferably, hair.

[0464] The composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a leave-in or rinse-out cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair. The term "leave-in" here means that the composition according to the present invention is not removed from the keratin fibers after being applied to the keratin fibers. The "rinse-out" here means that the composition according to the present invention is removed, by rinsing, from the keratin fibers after being applied to the keratin fibers. Water may be used for rinsing. Even after rinsing, the composition according to the present invention may remain to form a film or coating on keratin fibers such as hair.

[0465] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair care composition or a hair coloring composition and, even better, a hair care composition.

[0466] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients according to any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0467] If necessary, the above essential or optional ingredients may be heated. Thus, heating may be carried out when mixing the above essential and optional ingredients.

[0468] If the composition according to the present invention includes one or more oils, it may take the form of an emulsion, an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion because it can provide a sensation of freshness due to (d) the water which forms the outer phase. Movie

[0469] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. Even if (a) the ionically crosslinked polymer(s) form particles, these may aggregate and integrate into a continuous film.

[0470] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a method for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, preferably with a thickness of 10 nm or more, more preferably 50 nm or more, and even more preferably 100 nm or more, comprising:

[0471] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratin substance, better still keratin fibers and better still hair, of the composition according to the present invention and

[0472] drying the composition.

[0473] The upper limit of the thickness of the above film is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the above film may be 10 μm or less, preferably 5 μm or less, more preferably 3 μm or less, and even more preferably 1 μm or less.

[0474] The process for preparing a film which may relate to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to keratin fibers such as hair, and drying the composition. The application may be carried out by spraying.

[0475] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:

[0476] (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer, formed by

[0477] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer and

[0478] (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) of the latter;

[0479] (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone and

[0480] (c) at least one silicone.

[0481] The above film, preferably the cosmetic film, is resistant to water of a pH less than or equal to 7, and can be removed with water of a pH greater than 7, preferably 8 or higher and, most preferably, 9 or higher.

[0482] In other words, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be water-resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as a pH of 7 or less, preferably in a range of 6 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably in a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The upper limit of the pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.

[0483] Therefore, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be water-resistant and thus can remain on keratin fibers such as hair even if the surface of the keratin fibers is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. On the other hand, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be easily removed from keratin fibers such as hair under alkaline conditions. Therefore, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with, for example, a soap that can provide alkaline conditions.

[0484] Furthermore, the above film may have cosmetic effects such as absorbing or adsorbing unpleasant odors, changing the appearance of keratin fibers such as hair, changing the feel of the keratin fibers and / or protecting the keratin fibers from, for example, dirt or pollutants, due to the properties of the polyionic complex in the film, even if the film does not contain any cosmetic active ingredient.

[0485] If the above film contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient other than oil, the film may have cosmetic effects provided by the cosmetic active ingredient(s). Cosmetic process and use

[0486] The present invention also relates to

[0487] a cosmetic process for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0488] the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention and

[0489] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers,

[0490] and

[0491] a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:

[0492] the application to keratin fibers such as hair, of the composition according to the present invention and

[0493] drying the composition.

[0494] The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for treating and / or styling keratin fibers such as hair.

[0495] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on keratin fibers such as hair.

[0496] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0497] (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer, formed by

[0498] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0499] (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) of the latter;

[0500] (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone and

[0501] (c) at least one silicone

[0502] in a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising (d) water

[0503] so that the composition provides keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures such as an improved moisture feel as well as quality styling alignment and durability.

[0504] The explanations concerning the ingredients (a) to (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those of the use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0505] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 Preparation

[0506] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the ingredient amounts shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0507] The preparation of the compositions was as follows.

[0508] 0.5 g of polyquaternium-67 was dissolved in water heated to 70 C using a water bath to form an aqueous solution of polyquaternium-67. For Comparative Example 2, a 40 wt% aqueous solution of polyquaternium-6 was added to provide the aqueous solution of polyquaternium-67 with 0.62 g of polyquaternium-6. Then 0.21 g of a 50 wt% aqueous solution of phytic acid was added to the aqueous solution of polyquaternium-67 (Example 1 and Comparative Example 1) or to the mixture of polyquaternium-67 and polyquaternium-6 in the resulting water (Comparative Example 2). NaOH was used to adjust the pH of a mixture of polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-6 and phytic acid to about 6.

[0509] Next, Steareth-20 and cetyl hydroxypropylcellulose were added to the above mixture of polyquaternium-67 (with or without polyquaternium-6) and phytic acid along with NaOH. After the addition, cetearyl alcohol (Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2) and sunflower oil (Example 1) were added and emulsified by a homogenizer. After removing the resulting mixture from the water bath and cooling to about 40°C, two silicones, with isododecane, were added and emulsified by a homogenizer. Finally, caprylyl glycol and perfume were added.

[0510] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 2 STEARETH-20 0.50 0.50 0.50 CETYL HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.50 0.50 0.50 PHYTIC ACID (50% by weight) 0.21 0.21 0.21 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.08 0.08 0.08 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.00 3.00 3.00 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0.50 0.50 0.26 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 - - 0.62 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.70 0.70 0.70 SUNFLOWER OIL 5.00 - - DIMETHICONE [5 is] 3.00 3.00 3.00 DIMETHICONE [500 000 est] 3.00 3.00 3.00 ISODODECANE 7.00 7.00 7.00 PERFUME qs qs qs WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Smoothness Very good Good Bad Softness Very good Good Good Damp feel Good Bad Bad Detangling in humid conditions Very good Good Good Reviews

[0511] Hair texture in terms of smoothness, softness and wet feel, as well as hair texture durability and wet hair detangling were evaluated by sensory evaluations.

[0512] (Long-lasting smoothness, long-lasting softness and long-lasting moist feel)

[0513] The smoothness, softness and wet feel of the hair as well as the durability of these textures were evaluated by 3 panelists. Specifically, each panelist applied 0.15 g of each composition to 2.7 g of hair (Chinese, medium bleached) and dried the hair with a hair dryer. The dried hair was kept in a room with 80% humidity at 30°C for 4 hours. Before and after humidification, the smoothness, softness and wet feel of the hair were evaluated. The durability of the smoothness, softness and wet feel of the hair was evaluated by the difference between these values ​​before and after humidification.

[0514] The results of the above evaluations were classified according to the following criteria.

[0515] Very good: The texture before moistening and the durability of the texture after moistening were very good

[0516] Good The texture before moistening was good, while the durability of the texture after moistening was very good

[0517] Bad The texture before moistening and the durability of the texture after moistening were not very good

[0518] (Untangling)

[0519] Wet hair detangling was evaluated by 3 panelists. Specifically, each panelist applied 0.15 g of each composition to 2.7 g of hair (Chinese, medium bleached) and dried the hair with a hair dryer. The dry hair was wetted with water and wet detangling was evaluated.

[0520] Very good: Friction-free detangling, smooth and soft while rinsing with water

[0521] Good detangling with a little friction while rinsing with water

[0522] Bad Hair tangled while rinsing with water

[0523] The results are illustrated in Table 1.

[0524] (Summary)

[0525] The composition according to Example 1 which included PGP (Polyion Gel Particle) with sunflower oil provided better cosmetic effects with respect to smoothness, softness and wet feel as well as better detangling in wet weather than the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Examples 2-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 Preparation

[0526] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of ingredients listed in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0527] The composition according to Example 2 was prepared as explained above for Example 1, provided that the quantity of sunflower oil was set at 3.00% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0528] The compositions according to Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 were prepared as explained above.

[0529] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared as explained above for Example 2, provided that phytic acid was not used.

[0530] [Tables2] Ex. 2 Comp. Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 2 Comp. Ex. 3 STEARETH-20 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 CETYL HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 PHYTIC ACID (50% by weight) 0.21 0.21 0.21 - SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0.50 0.50 0.26 0.50 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 - - 0.62 - CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 SUNFLOWER OIL 3.00 - - 3.00 DIMETHICONE [5 est] 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 DIMETHICONE [500,000 est] 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 ISODODECANE 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 PERFUME qs qs qs qs WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Hair Alignment Good Bad Bad Bad Shape Recovery Good Good Good Bad Durability Styleability Very Good Bad Bad Bad Reviews

[0531] Hair alignment and shape recovery immediately after drying as well as the durability of combability after moistening were evaluated using sensory evaluations.

[0532] (Hair Alignment and Shape Recovery)

[0533] Hair alignment was evaluated by 3 panelists. Specifically, each panelist applied 0.15 g of each composition to 2.7 g of hair (Chinese, medium bleached) and dried the hair with a hair dryer. Hair alignment was evaluated. Then, the hair was intentionally spread by combing it and shape recovery was evaluated by observing the extent to which the hair was aligned again by touching it with the hand.

[0534] The results of the above evaluations were classified according to the following criteria.

[0535] Good Hair alignment or shape restoration was good

[0536] Bad Hair alignment or shape restoration was not good

[0537] Then, the hair was kept in a room with 80% humidity at 30°C for 4 hours. Hair alignment was again assessed. The durability of styleability was assessed by the difference in hair alignment before and after humidification.

[0538] The results of the above evaluation were classified according to the following criteria.

[0539] Very good: Virtually no change in hair alignment

[0540] Good Slight change in hair alignment

[0541] Bad Obvious change in hair alignment, with increased frizz

[0542] The results are illustrated in Table 2.

[0543] (Summary)

[0544] The composition according to Example 1 provided better cosmetic effects with respect to hair alignment and shape recovery, as well as better durability of hair combability than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, comprising: (a) at least one ionically crosslinked polymer, formed by (a-1) at least one cationic polymer comprising at least one cationic cellulose polymer with at least one fatty chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms and (a-2) at least one non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof; (b) at least one non-volatile non-silicone oil selected from vegetable oils; (c-1) at least one first silicone, selected from dimethicones, with a dynamic viscosity of 10 est or less, at 25°C and (c-2) at least one second silicone, selected from dimethicones, with a dynamic viscosity of 1000,000 est or more, at 25°C, and (d) water.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer (a-1) has at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group.

3. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 2 in which the quantity of (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein (a-2) the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or salt(s) thereof is an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and preferably a phytic acid or salts thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for hair and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for hair care.

6. A cosmetic process for keratin fibers such as hair, including the application to the keratin material of the composition according to one any of Claims 1 to 5 and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers.