Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-silicone oil

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-siliconized oil. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising (a) at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the content of the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one anionic surfactant having at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-siliconized oil, the composition being free of silicone compounds.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-silicone oil Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-siliconized oil, the composition being free of silicone compounds.

[0002] The present invention also relates to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials. Context of the invention

[0003] The particular galenic type targeted by the present invention, namely an oil-in-water emulsion type requiring in particular the presence of at least a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, makes it possible to carry active ingredients while providing interesting sensory properties when applied to keratinous materials.

[0004] Oil-in-water emulsion type compositions requiring in particular the presence of at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, are described in particular in patent application WO2018108878 and in patent application WO2020002538.

[0005] However, these compositions serve very specific purposes. In particular, they are intended to either conceal skin imperfections or moisturize the skin.

[0006] However, it is sometimes difficult to reconcile the requirements regarding property rights specific, texture and stability factors are important. In particular, it is desirable to have compositions capable of maintaining good stability over time, while also offering good sensory qualities, notably with little or no soaping problems during application.

[0007] The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problems.

[0008] In view of the foregoing, it is thus evident that there remains a need for compositions with interesting sensory properties, and in particular good potting, good glide, a non-sticky appearance, and a reduction or absence of soaping during application, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

[0009] Finally, consumers today are very sensitive to the environmental impact of the products used.

[0010] Consequently, it remains very difficult to obtain cosmetic compositions offering particular sensory properties with a good gliding and non-sticky feel on application, having low soaping, while maintaining good stability over time. Summary of the invention

[0011] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-siliconized oil, the composition being free of silicone compounds.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, "free from silicone compounds" means a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably is free (devoid) of silicone compounds.

[0013] The term “silicone compounds” (also called silicones) means all silicone compounds that may be used in cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, i.e., inorganic compounds consisting of at least a mixture of silicon and oxygen, including in particular silicone oils and surfactants silicones, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl or amine silicones.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition such as described above.

[0015] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0016] As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain compositions with interesting sensory properties, and in particular good potting action, good glide, a non-sticky appearance, and low soaping, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

[0017] The compositions according to the present invention advantageously allow the delivery of ingredients of diverse nature such as cosmetic actives, sun filters, particles, polymers, perfumes, colorants, mother-of-pearls depending on the different benefit(s) desired.

[0018] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.

[0019] The expression "at least one" means one or more.

[0020] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0021] The term "keratinous materials" according to the invention means the skin of the body, face and / or neck and / or around the eyes, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp and / or head hair, or any other cutaneous area of ​​the body. More particularly, the keratinous materials according to the invention are the scalp, hair, and / or skin.

[0022] Preferably, the keratinous materials according to the invention are skin.

[0023] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face.

[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials such as skin.

[0025] The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, compatible with the skin.

[0026] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0027] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition. Detailed description of the invention Composition according to the invention: C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohols

[0028] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18.

[0029] By "saturated fatty alcohol" is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.

[0030] By "hydrocarbon chain" is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0031] The saturated fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention comprise between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

[0032] The saturated fatty alcohol(s) useful in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (Cl6), stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (C18), behenic alcohol (C22) which are solid at room temperature and advantageously have a -OH group at the end of the chain.

[0033] Preferably, the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol - "ceteraryl alcohol" in English).

[0034] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of C16 and C18 saturated fatty alcohols, in particular the composition comprises cetostearyl alcohol.

[0035] More preferably, the mixture of fatty alcohols in C16 and Cl8 is used in a C16 / C18 mass ratio varying from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a C16 / C18 mass ratio equal to 50 / 50.

[0036] The content of saturated fatty alcohol in C16-C22, preferably in C16-C18, is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Preferably, the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s), preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount between 3.1% and 7% by weight, more preferably between 3.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Anionic surfactants comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain

[0039] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant having at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18.

[0040] The anionic surfactant(s) useful within the framework of the invention comprise at least one linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more double and / or triple covalent bonds), preferably saturated, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said hydrocarbon chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0041] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) useful in the context of the invention comprise a single linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated.

[0042] By "hydrocarbon chain" is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0043] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are selected from alkyl(C16-C22)sulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)amidesulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)arylsulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)sulfoacetates, N-acyl(C16-C22)-N-alkyl(Cl-C6)taurates, acyl(C16-C22)isethionates, alkyl(C16-C22)sulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from: - acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms; - N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or cyclic group comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is a methyl, - and their mixtures;

[0046] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0047] As an example of N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate may be cited marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate marketed under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.

[0048] The acyl glutamate(s) can be chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0049] Examples of acyl glutamates include palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0050] Examples include compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

[0051] As salts of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH2)nSO3M in which R represents a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched in C16-C22; Y represents -O- or -NRr with Ri representing a linear or branched alkyl group in C1-C3; M is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, the ammonium group and organic amines; n is an integer from 1 to 3.

[0053] Preferably, the anionic surfactant of general formula (I) is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, with M corresponding to Na.

[0054] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, more preferably from N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group being a methyl, in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium (Na).

[0055] Preferably, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain is sodium N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate.

[0056] The anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount preferably between 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight. weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In compositions according to the invention, the mass ratio of fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) can be between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and even more preferably between 9:1 and 4:1.

[0058] Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it appears that the fatty alcohol(s) and the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain form an alpha-crystalline phase, also called an alpha-gel, with the hydrophilic phase. This phase can notably be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature below the melting point of the alpha-gel phase.

[0059] Thus, the composition according to the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, and preferably greater than 12 nm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The period is defined as the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by the fatty alcohols (a) and the anionic surfactants (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two layers, this pattern being repeated several times.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms of the hydrocarbon chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms of the fatty alcohol(s) (a) shall not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably it is less than or equal to 4. Polyol

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0064] For the purposes of this invention, polyol means:

[0065] - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at minus two hydroxyl groups; or

[0066] - a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or several carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and include at least two hydroxyl functions, such as polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol motifs.

[0067] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched.

[0068] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0069] The polyol(s) may be selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

[0070] Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferred.

[0071] Preferably, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, more preferably are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and propane-1,3-diol, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of caprylyl glycol and glycerol.

[0074] The polyol(s) are present in the composition preferably in an amount between 15.1% and 29.9% by weight, preferably between 17% and 25% by weight, and even more preferably between 18% and 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-silicone oils

[0075] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-siliconized oil.

[0076] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0077] The composition according to the invention may in particular include hydrocarbon oils.

[0078] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0079] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0080] The term "non-siliconized oil" means an oil that does not contain any atoms of silicon, and in particular the Si-O group.

[0081] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0082] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include: - Branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, particularly in C8-C16 such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof,

[0083] -linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, and their mixtures; or a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms (called C15-C19 alkane), for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic.

[0084] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

[0085] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as Vaseline, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof,

[0086] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, and Limanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.We can also mention coco-caprylate / caprate, for example marketed under the denomination . Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois, - Synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether; - Synthetic esters, such as oils with the formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyle myristate, isopropyl palmitate; alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by the company Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; benzoate of 2-ethylphenyl as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate,isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester of C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the Jungbunzlauer company; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms,for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - diol and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters, more specifically chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" from Ajinomoto, - liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with branched and possibly unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher C19-C22 fatty acids, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis;

[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-siliconized oil(s) are selected from among branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, fatty amides, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain, and possibly unsaturated, having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms,Higher C19-C22 fatty acids, carbonates and mixtures thereof; preferably from among squalane, oleyl erucate, a mixture of 15- to 19-carbon alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably, the non-siliconized oil or oils are chosen from among non-polar hydrocarbon oils.

[0089] For the purposes of this invention, "non-polar oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0090] Preferably, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil can be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: - squalane; - isoeicosane; - naphthalene oil; - polybutenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol), marketed or manufactured by AMO; - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as Parléam V® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL Company (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO Company (MW = 1000 g / mol; - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially INDOPOL L-14; - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as, in particular: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, or PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL; and - their mixtures.

[0091] According to a preferred embodiment, the nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s) have a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, more preferably greater than or equal to 400 g.mol.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-siliconized oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s), more preferably having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, such as squalane.

[0093] The non-siliconized oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 20%, even more preferably from 5% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0094] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.

[0095] The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range, for example, from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and even better from 3% to 15% by weight.

[0096] This quantity indicated does not include the content of anionic surfactants as defined above.

[0097] For the purposes of the invention, the oily phase includes any liquid fat at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or solid fat at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, present in said composition, with the exception of fatty alcohols as defined above. Aqueous phase

[0098] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0099] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water and the polyol(s) as defined above. The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, better still from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] The quantity of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 35% by weight, better at least 40% by weight.

[0101] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may further contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive, other than the polyols mentioned above.

[0102] In the present invention, "water-soluble additive" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0103] Water-soluble additives can also be mentioned as primary alcohols, that is, an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is preferred. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a body or hair product.

[0104] The quantity of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH between 4 and 9, more preferably between 4.5 and 7. cosmetic actives

[0106] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0107] The term "additional active ingredient" is used in the context of the present invention to mean a compound which has biological activity by itself, i.e., not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it.

[0108] The additional active ingredient(s) may be chosen in particular from:

[0109] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3;

[0110] - known anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and including sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;

[0111] - known anti-acne agents,

[0112] - solar filters;

[0113] - menthol and

[0114] - and their mixtures.

[0115] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from among the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, colorants, mother-of-pearls, pigments, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), fillers, dispersing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The additional active ingredient used in the composition according to the invention can represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic composition

[0118] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0119] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. It comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0120] In addition, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam.

[0121] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, that is to say by application to the surface of the keratinous material considered, such as the skin considered.

[0122] Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and / or body, in particular of the face and / or neck and / or hands, preferably of the face, and / or neck and more particularly of the forehead and / or wings of the nose and / or chin.

[0123] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0124] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0125] As stated, the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0126] The composition may alternatively take the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and be packaged for example as a cream in a jar or as a fluid in a tube or pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0127] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0128] The ingredients are mixed before shaping, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0129] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises cetostearyl alcohol, sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate, a mixture of caprylyl glycol and glycerol and optionally squalane. Processes and uses

[0130] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition such as described above.

[0131] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

[0132] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0133] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0134] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0135] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can be formulated for example as a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam.

[0136] According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more periods of interruption.

[0137] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0138] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned with a washing solution.

[0139] Furthermore, treatment combinations with possibly topical forms may be considered in order to complement or enhance the activity of the composition according to the invention.

[0140] One could imagine a topical treatment with the composition according to the invention, combined with an ancillary composition dedicated to application by Topically, this ancillary composition can be impregnated onto a wipe-type support.

[0141] Thus, the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic treatment process for a keratinous material, comprising:

[0142] a) a step of topical application on the skin of a washing solution;

[0143] b) a step of topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention, and

[0144] c) optionally, a topical application step of a different composition of the composition applied in step b),

[0145] steps b) and c) can be carried out simultaneously or successively.

[0146] Such a composition applied in step c) can be described as an "ancillary composition".

[0147] The washing solution may in particular be in various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / H form), or others, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution or gel.

[0148] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting to the scope of the invention. However, the examples will support specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples

[0149] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to ambient temperature (20-25 °C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise stated. Furthermore, percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated. Example 1:

[0150] Three compositions according to the invention (named composition 1, composition 2 and composition 3) and one composition outside the invention (Composition 4), in particular comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content of less than 3% by weight (in this case 2%) relative to the total weight of the composition, were prepared.

[0151] These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 1 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] [Tables 1] Phase Compounds (INCI Name 1 2 3 4) A Preservatives qs qs qs qs Cetearyl alcohol(1) 3.6 3.8 3.2 2 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate® 0.4 0.4 0.6 0.4 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chelating agent 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Squalane(3) 5 10 10 5 C Glycerin 20 10 10 20 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 1. sold by BASF under the trade name LANETTE O OR (Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50)); 2. sold by the company NIKKO under the trade name NIKKOL SMT; 3. sold by the company AMYRIS under the trade name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE. Preparation protocol

[0153] In a tank, the components of phase A are heated up to 75°C until a homogeneous medium is obtained under the blades.

[0154] To this mixture heated to 60°C, the components of phase B and C are added under stirring.

[0155] The mixture is cooled under stirring and vacuum and the pH is adjusted if necessary (pH around 5-6).

[0156] Finally, a final homogenization phase is carried out up to a temperature of 32°C, still under agitation and under vacuum, if necessary by reducing the turbine. Stability measurement:

[0157] The stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0158] The properties of the composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation.

[0159] The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: at room temperature or "TA" (approximately 25 °C), at 4 °C, and at 45 °C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven, for example, the Bio concept brand from Firlabo.

[0160] The properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

[0161] The properties evaluated are:

[0162] - the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

[0163] - the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM100 by Lamy Rheology, according to the CID-012-02 method;

[0164] - the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by ob preservation of the composition under an optical microscope between a slide and a coverslip, at a magnification of X10;

[0165] - the color and odor of the composition; and

[0166] Destabilization phenomena of the composition will also be observed, such as the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a surface film, mottling...

[0167] The closer the properties of the composition remain after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage to those initially measured at 24h at 25°C, then the more the composition can be considered to remain stable.

[0168] In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without destabilization phenomena and without changes in color and odor, then it is considered to be stable. Measurement of the sensory effect (lathering):

[0169] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of noting the presence of a white trace when compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention and composition 4 outside the invention are applied to the skin, by a panel of six expert persons.

[0170] To do this, 50 pL of the composition to be tested are taken using an Eppendorf micropipette equipped with a 0.5 mL combitips, then deposited on a circle of 5 cm diameter drawn on a Lipstain support (Reference: Lipstain / C3).

[0171] The composition is then spread with the fingers, by about 15 rotations, twice at 15-second intervals.

[0172] The presence of white traces, or even foam, on the support is assessed.

[0173] Between two assessments, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with warm water.

[0174] The study is carried out by a panel of six expert persons individually assessing the presence of white traces according to the above protocol.

[0175] The result is expressed as the average of the scores obtained, rounded to the nearest half-unit, according to the following scale:

[0176] - note < 3: few or no white traces;

[0177] - note equal to 3: greater quantity of white traces;

[0178] - note > 3: quantity of white traces, see very large foam.

[0179] The presence of white traces, or even foam, means that the composition has a problem with lathering.

[0180] According to the invention, a composition is considered to have soaping problems if its average score according to the above protocol is greater than or equal to 3.0. Result: Stability and sensory feedback

[0181] The stability and the sensory effect (lathering) of composition 1 to 3 according to the invention and of composition 4 outside the invention were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.

[0182] The results of the stability and sensory effect are compiled in Table 2 below.

[0183] [Tables2] Compositions 1 (invention) 2 (invention) 3 (invention) 4 (non-invention) Sensory effect (lathering) 2 2 1.5 3 Long-term stability Compliant Compliant Compliant Non-compliant (creaming)

[0184] Compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition are stable over time, in that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45 °C.

[0185] On the contrary, composition 4, outside the scope of the invention, comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, exhibits creaming after 2 months of storage at 45°C. Consequently, composition 4, outside the scope of the invention, is therefore unstable.

[0186] In addition, compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention have good sensory appeal, with little problem of soaping during application, and sensations of slipperiness and non-stickiness during application, unlike composition 4 outside the invention.

[0187] It follows that a composition according to the invention, comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, exhibits both stability and advantageous sensory properties. Example 2:

[0188] Two compositions outside the invention (named Composition 5 and Composition 6), in particular comprising an amount of polyol less than or equal to 15% by weight (in this case 5%) or greater than or equal to 30% by weight (in this case 30%) relative to the total weight of the composition, were prepared.

[0189] Composition 1 according to the invention corresponds to the composition shown in example 1.

[0190] These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, comprise the compounds detailed in Table 3 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] [Tables3] Phase Compounds (INCI name) 1 5 6 A Preservatives qs qs qs Cetearyl alcohol(1) 3.6 3.6 3.6 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate® 0.4 0.4 0.4 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chelating agent 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Squalane® 5 5 5 C Glycerin 20 5 30 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 1. sold by BASF under the trade name LANETTE O OR (Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50)); 2. sold by the company NIKKO under the trade name NIKKOL SMT; 3. sold by the company AMYRIS under the trade name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE.

[0192] The protocol for preparing these compositions is identical to that described in example 1. Viscosity measurement:

[0193] The viscosity of the compositions can be measured using a Rheometer (Rheomat RM200).

[0194] The measurement is carried out using an immersed element (moving or measuring body) rotating at a chosen and constant speed. The measurement is carried out with an assembly of the product to be analyzed – measuring cup – measuring body at a given setpoint temperature, regulated for example by means of a thermostatic bath.

[0195] 60 ml of the composition to be tested is introduced into the beaker, avoiding the introduction of air and by pouring along the wall.

[0196] The moving part used to take the measurements is chosen according to the viscosity of the product to analyze:

[0197] - Ml: lotion;

[0198] - M2: fluid milk;

[0199] - M3: cream, thickened milk; and / or

[0200] - M4: thick cream,

[0201] preferably M3.

[0202] The device program is to perform a system of 75 measurements, with a rotation speed of 200 rpm. The setpoint temperature is 25 °C. The viscosity is taken after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.

[0203] The results are expressed in Pa.s.

[0204] A composition can be considered to be compact for good consistency in the pot if it has a viscosity greater than or equal to 650 mPa.s as measured according to the protocol defined above.

[0205] Viscosity result and sensory effect (lathering):

[0206] The sensory effect (lathering) as well as the viscosity of composition 1 according to the invention and of compositions 5 and 6 outside the invention were evaluated according to the sensory effect measurement protocol detailed in Example 1 and the viscosity measurement protocol detailed above.

[0207] The results of the sensory and viscosity effect are compiled in Table 4 below.

[0208] [Tables4] Compositions 1 (invention) 5 (non-invention) 6 (non-invention) Sensory effect (lathering) 2 2 4 Viscosity at 24h with Mobile 3-consistency in jar 1196 mPa.s compact 192 mPa.s soft 1280 mPa.s compact

[0209] Composition 1 according to the invention comprising an amount of polyol strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has a compact pot consistency allowing easy handling by the consumer.

[0210] On the contrary, composition 5 outside the invention comprising a quantity of polyol less than or equal to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition has a fluid consistency in the pot which makes it difficult for the consumer to take the product from the pot.

[0211] Furthermore, composition 1 according to the invention has good sensory appeal, with little problem of lathering during application, and sensations of slipperiness and non-stickiness during application, unlike composition 6 outside the invention comprising an amount of polyol greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which has problems of lathering.

[0212] It follows that a composition according to the invention, comprising an amount of polyol strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has both a compact texture allowing good potting and advantageous sensory properties.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oil phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising: (a) at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the content of the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one anionic surfactant having at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (d) at least one non-siliconized oil, the composition being free from silicone compounds.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of C16 and Cl8 saturated fatty alcohols, preferably in a C16 / C18 mass ratio ranging from 20 / 80 to 80 / 20, and advantageously in a C16 / C18 mass ratio of 50 / 50.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s), preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount of between 3.1% and 7% by weight, more preferably between 3.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are selected from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are selected from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, more preferably from N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group being a methyl, in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium (Na).

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain is sodium N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio of fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) is between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and even more preferably between 9:1 and 4:

1.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, more preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and propane-1,3-diol, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol(s) are present in the composition in an amount of between 15.1% and 29.9% by weight, preferably between 17% and 25% by weight, and even more preferably between 18% and 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-siliconized oil(s) are selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, more preferably having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, such as squalane.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-siliconized oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 20%, even more preferably from 5% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A method for caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

15. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.