Cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, a specific cationic polymer, and at least one particular oxyalkylene derivative

Abstract

Cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, a specific cationic polymer, and at least one particular oxyalkylenated derivative. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and - at least 0.2% by weight of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I), said composition having a pH of between 5 and 7, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials using this composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, a specific cationic polymer, and at least one particular oxyalkylene derivative

[0001] The present invention relates to an aqueous transparent cosmetic composition, comprising ascorbic acid, at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and at least one particular oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I).

[0002] In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as a skin regenerating active ingredient by stimulating the synthesis of collagen responsible for skin firmness, or as a depigmenting agent, as this vitamin reduces the production of melanin responsible for brown spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0003] However, when ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium (such as emulsions or serums) at high levels (i.e., for example, greater than 5% by weight, preferably greater than 10% by weight), its formulation is difficult to achieve because it destabilizes and changes color drastically. This color change can go as far as a brown coloration, which is prohibitive for the consumer. In addition, these aqueous compositions of the serum or gelled solution type have the disadvantage of being sticky when spread on the skin, which is not satisfactory for the consumer.

[0004] This is why aqueous compositions of the serum or solution type are found on the market, which include ascorbic acid in the form of powder to be solubilized extemporaneously. The disadvantage of this type of product is that vitamin C ends up degrading in the aqueous medium. These products are thus losing their appeal because consumers prefer, for reasons of practicality, serums without prior manipulation, with the guarantee of color stability and without chemical degradation.

[0005] There is therefore a need for an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid which is stable, i.e. which remains the same color as originally (generally white) and of the same texture, and which does not degrade the active ingredient, and which has satisfactory sensory properties for the user, in particular an acceptable stickiness when applying the composition to the skin.

[0006] Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that particular oxy-alkylenated derivatives make it possible to obtain compositions comprising at least one specific cationic polymer, and ascorbic acid present in particular at a high content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which have sensory properties during application, such as an acceptable stickiness when spreading on keratin materials such as the skin, and in particular which are stable over time and temperature.

[0007] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0008] - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0009] - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0010] - at least one cationic polymer chosen from galactomannan gums ca cationic and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, and

[0011] - at least 0.2% by weight of an oxyalkylenated derivative of the following formula (I):

[0012] Z-{O(AO)1(EO)m-(BO)nH]a (I)

[0013] in which

[0014] Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

[0015] AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms

[0016] EO represents an oxyethylene group;

[0017] BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms,

[0018] a ranges from 3 to 9;

[0019] 1, m, and n represent respectively the average number of moles of AO, EO units and BO, and 1 < 1 < 50, 1 < m < 50 and 0.5 < n < 5;

[0020] the weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranging from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1

[0021] said composition having a pH between 5 and 7.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0023] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous solution, more preferably an aqueous solution with a slightly gelled appearance. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is single-phase. This composition may be called a “serum”. By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, a slightly gelled appearance, runny, and preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e. preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid, and more particularly at least 10% by weight of ascorbic acid).

[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. By "substantially free of surfactants" is meant that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to at 1% by weight. The surfactants may preferably be peptizers, the concentration of which is between 0.1 and 2% by weight; they allow the solubilization of a small quantity of oil(s) or lipophilic compounds or active ingredients or perfume(s) (i.e. concentration of perfume(s) or oil(s) or lipophilic compound(s) between 0.05% and 2%). Aqueous phase

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises water, which constitutes the aqueous phase.

[0026] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or a natural thermal or mineral water.

[0027] The composition preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The composition preferably comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 85%.

[0029] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C.

[0030] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0032] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from polyols, preferably glycerol and / or hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol.

[0034] In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of water-soluble organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 2% to 30% by weight, even more particularly from 5 to 20% by weight.

[0035] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a polyol, preferably caprylyl glycol, at a content of 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly at a content of 0.2% to 1.5% by weight. Ascorbic acid

[0036] Ascorbic acid within the meaning of the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the structure of formula (A):

[0037] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e. at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition), preferably at least 7% by weight, and more preferably at least 10% by weight.

[0038] Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight.

[0039] As shown in examples, surprisingly, the compositions according to the invention comprising in particular 12% by weight of ascorbic acid, 0.4% of poly-quatemium-67 and 1% of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) according to the invention, such as PEG / PPG / Polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin, have a good tackiness property during application. This tackiness property during application is acceptable because, rated on a tackiness scale (evaluation 45 seconds after application) ranging from 1 (not tacky) to 5 (very tacky), the compositions according to the invention have a score of 2.1, and this score is lower than the comparative composition comprising 12% by weight of ascorbic acid in water (rated 2.35). Oxyalkylene derivative

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.2% by weight of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) defined below relative to the total weight of the composition (i.e. at a content greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight of an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) relative to the total weight of the composition).

[0041] The oxyalkylene derivative used in the present invention corresponds to the following formula (I): Z - { O (AO) 1 (EO) m - (B O) n H} a ( I )

[0042] in which

[0043] Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

[0044] AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0045] EO represents an oxyethylene group;

[0046] BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms;

[0047] a goes from 3 to 9;

[0048] 1, m, and n represent respectively the average number of moles of AO, EO units and BO, and 1 < 1 < 50, 1 < m < 50 and 0.5 < n < 5;

[0049] the weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranging from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1.

[0050] In the composition according to the invention, an oxyalkylene derivative or a mixture of identical or different oxyalkylene derivatives may be used.

[0051] In the oxyalkylene derivative of formula (I), Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a represents the number of hydroxyl groups of the derivative and ranges from 3 to 9.

[0052] As compounds comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, mention may be made, for example, in the case where a = 3: glycerin, trimethylolpropane; in the case where a = 4: erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, alkylglycosides, diglycerin; in the case where a = 5: xylitol; in the case where a = 6: dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol; in the case where a = 8, sucrose, trehalose; in the case where a = 9, maltitol; or a mixture of said compounds.

[0053] Preferably, Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of hydroxyl group(s) from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and 3 < a < 6. As preferred compounds comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, mention may be made of glycerin or trimethylolpropane, and in particular glycerin.

[0054] When a is less than or equal to 2, the compatibility between the oxyalkylenated compound and the fatty phase of the composition such as oils and fatty substances is low, and the stability of the mixture in oil-based formulations is affected.

[0055] When a is greater than or equal to 10, a sticky effect is observed.

[0056] AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms. AO may for example represent an oxypropylene, oxybutylene (oxy-n-butylene, oxyisobutylene or oxy-t-butylene) group, an oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetra-methylene group or a mixture. AO is preferably chosen from oxypropylene and / or oxybutylene groups, and more preferably from oxypropylene groups.

[0057] 1 represents the average number of moles of AO units and 1 < 1 < 50, preferably 2 < 1 <20.

[0058] m represents the average number of moles of EO units, and 1 < m < 50, preferably 2 < m < 20. When I is equal to 0, a sticky effect is observed; on the other hand, when I exceeds 50, the moisturizing effect of compound (I) is reduced.

[0059] Furthermore, when m is equal to 0, the moisturizing effect 50 decreases and when m exceeds 50, a sticky effect is observed.

[0060] The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1, and preferably 1 / 4 to 4 / 1. When this ratio is less than 1 / 5, a sticky effect is observed, and when the AO / EO ratio exceeds 5 / 1, the moisturizing effect decreases.

[0061] The order of addition of the AO and EO units is not decisive, the AO and EO units can be added statistically or in sequenced form (blocks). To achieve an improved effect of preventing skin dryness, AO and EO are preferably added statistically.

[0062] BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms, and may be for example chosen from oxybutylene groups (such as oxy-n-butylene, oxy-isobutylene or oxy-t-butylene groups), oxytetramethylene and mixtures thereof. Preferably BO is chosen from oxybutylene groups.

[0063] n represents the average number of moles of BO units, and 0.5 < n < 5, preferably 0.8 < n < 3, and better still 1 < n < 3.

[0064] When n is less than 0.5, a sticky effect is observed. When n exceeds 5, the moisturizing effect decreases.

[0065] In formula (I), the (BO)n units are necessarily linked to the terminal hydrogen atom of the oxyalkylene derivative.

[0066] The oxyalkylene derivatives of formula (I) can be prepared by well-known methods, such as for example by addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms on a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, then reaction with an ethylene oxide comprising 4 carbon atoms.

[0067] In the addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms to a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, the ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide groups can be polymerized randomly or in block form.

[0068] Among the oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I), mention may in particular be made of the oxyalkylenated derivative (polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol) represented by the following formula (II): G 1 y-[O (PO) s (EO) t - (BO) uH]3 (il)

[0069] in which:

[0070] Gly represents a radical obtained by elimination of hydroxyl groups from glycerin;

[0071] PO represents an oxypropylene group;

[0072] EO represents an oxyethylene group;

[0073] s and t respectively represent the average number of moles of PO and EO units have a value ranging from 1 to 50;

[0074] the weight ratio of PO units to EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1;

[0075] BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms; and

[0076] u represents the average number of moles of BO units, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.

[0077] The oxyalkylene derivative of formula (II) above may be obtained by addition polymerization of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in a ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each propylene oxide and ethylene oxide relative to glycerin, followed by the addition of alkylene oxide comprising 4 carbon atoms in a ratio of 1.5 to 15 molar equivalents relative to glycerin.

[0078] The addition reaction of said alkylene oxide to glycerin can be carried out in the presence of an alkaline catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or an equivalent. An alkaline catalyst is generally used, preferably potassium hydroxide.

[0079] Among the oxyalkylene derivatives of formula (I) or (II), the derivatives obtained by addition of 6 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 moles of propylene oxide to glycerin, followed by the addition of 2 to 4 moles of butylene oxide, are preferred.

[0080] As a preferred oxyalkylene derivative of formula (I) or (II), mention may be made of polyoxy-butylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene 8 / 5 / 3 glycerol, which is obtained by addition reaction of 8 moles of ethylene oxide and 5 moles of propylene oxide to glycerin, then addition of 3 moles of butylene oxide, and whose INCI name is PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin. PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin is commercially available under the reference WILBRIDE S-753 from the company NOF Corporation.

[0081] The oxyalkylenated derivative(s) of formula (I) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 4% by weight and better still from 0.8 to 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain

[0083] The cationic polymer according to the invention is chosen from cationic galactomannan gums (cationic guars) and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain (preferably polyquaternium-67).

[0084] Indeed, these polymers are more favorable in particular to the stability of the compositions.

[0085] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be a cationic galactomannan gum (cationic guar). The term "cationic galactomannan gum" means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

[0086] Galactomannans are polysaccharides composed mainly of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1-4-glycosidic bond and the galactose branching takes place by means of a 1-6 bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) carries three free hydroxyl groups available for chemical reaction. Galactomannans are commonly found in the endosperm of legume seeds such as guar or carob.

[0087] The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0088] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and 5x106, and preferably between approximately 103 and 3x106.

[0089] The cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic groups. trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

[0090] Among these trialkylammonium groups, we can particularly mention the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0091] Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0092] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0093] These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums, modified by cationic groups, are products already known in themselves and are, for example, described in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyl-trimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

[0094] The cationic polymer according to the invention may alternatively be a cationic cellulose polymer modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. For the purposes of the present invention, a "cationic cellulose polymer" designates any non-silicone cellulose polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups. in cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

[0095] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds. The cellulosic polymer may be associative, i.e. have in its structure at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.

[0096] The cationic cellulosic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 5000 and 5.106, preferably of between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0097] Among the cationic celluloses, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

[0098] Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may be made in particular of quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0099] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0100] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): GH

[0101] in which:

[0102] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN-i--, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide;

[0103] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C30 alkyl, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

[0104] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

[0105] - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0106] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0107] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0108] Even better, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0109] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0110] The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0111] We can notably cite the polymers with INCI names:

[0112] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL company;

[0113] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM® ;

[0114] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as CRODACEL QL® product and

[0115] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cl8 alkyl) such as CRODACEL QS® product, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0116] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0117] More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67).

[0118] It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0119] Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain; preferably from guar gums modified by a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt and hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide.

[0120] and preferably among Guar Hydroxypropyl Tri-Methyl Ammonium chloride and hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name polyquaternium-67).

[0121] The total content of active material of the cationic polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. pH of the composition

[0122] The composition according to the invention has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0123] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

[0124] The base is notably used to increase the final pH of the composition between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0125] The base may be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0126] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide. Indeed, these bases are more advantageous than nitrogenous bases, such as triethanolamine, in terms of color stabilization (i.e. less yellowing).

[0127] Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a ratio weight basis: ascorbic acid ranging from 0.2 to 0.3.

[0128] The composition may also comprise one or more additive(s) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions such as, for example, active ingredients, sequestrants, preservatives or even perfumes.

[0129] Preferably, among the active ingredients that can be used, adenosine, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, hayuronic acid, niacinamide (Vitamin B3), tocopherol or even perfumes are preferred.

[0130] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant.

[0131] Among the preferred sequestrants, mention may be made of salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

[0132] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound of formula (B): H Oh... HO O i K N"' OH H

[0133] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

[0134] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0135] Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Na-trlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] It is understood that the salt content of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt introduced into the composition.

[0138] According to a particular embodiment variant, the salt of ethylenediamine di- succinic acid may be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight in water.

[0139] Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Na-trlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

[0140] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preservative.

[0141] Among the preferred preservatives, mention may be made of hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

[0142] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 0.8% by weight of preservative(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0144] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0145] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” or “at least ..” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified. EXAMPLES

[0146] In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w). Example 1: Compositions according to the invention

[0147] Compositions A to C according to the invention are prepared below according to the following protocol:

[0148] - In a first beaker: Introduce the water (approximately 60°C) and add in order following the ingredients of phase A: caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylene diamine di-succinate, hydroxyacetophenone.

[0149] - Once everything has been dissolved, and the phase is clear, without crystals, leave cool to room temperature.

[0150] - Add the previous phase: polyquaternium-67 with medium stirring and long to ensure efficient deployment of the polymer.

[0151] - Introduce the ascorbic acid, sprinkling it on the top preparation.

[0152] - Add the soda diluted in water, adjusting the pH between 5.8 and 6

[0153] - If necessary, introduce, with stirring, the PEG / PPG / Polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin or PPG-26-BUTETH-26 (and) PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL.

[0154] [Tables 1] ingredients (% w / w) composition B outside the invention composition A according to finvenfen composition C outside the invention WATER 83.93 82.33 82.33 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.53 0.50 0.50 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE. DISUŒINATE NATRQUEST E30 under the trade name of the company 1NNÔSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS 0.23 0 20 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL under the trade name HYDROLITE GG of your company 0.33 8.30 0.30 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 under the trade name SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-10Q of the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) (MO 0.43 0.43 ASCORBIC ACID under the trade name 12.00 12.30 12.30 SODIUM HYDROXŒ 2.67 2.67 2.67 PEG / PPG / POLY8UTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCER1N under the trade name WILBRIDE S-753L by the company NOF CORPORATION 1.00 PPG-26-8UTETH-26 (and) PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1.00 Stickiness rating 45 seconds after application (Average of 10 people) 2.35 2.1 2.25

[0155] The reduction in stickiness of fresh formulas upon application is measured: evaluation 45 seconds after application of the stickiness by a panel of 10 laboratory experts trained to reproduce a standardized evaluation gesture including the boundary formulas (evaluation scale from 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 very sticky).

[0156] The evaluation protocol for the tights is as follows: 50pl of product is applied to the back of a hand covered with a membrane that mimics the characteristics of the skin. With three fingers of the other hand (index, middle and ring fingers), 15 turns are made in 15 seconds. Then wait 15 seconds, and repeat 15 turns in 15 seconds.

[0157] The stickiness is assessed after 45 seconds with the applicator fingers, by tactile assessment, tapping twice.

[0158] The skin adheres or not according to a rating between 1 and 5 (according to the evaluation scale of 1 to 5, 1 being not sticky and 5 very sticky). The evaluations are carried out by a panel of a minimum of 10 expert people.

[0159] Rinse your fingers between each product with a cloth moistened with warm water.

[0160] An improvement in the tights compared to a reference product, in the present case a reference composition not comprising PEG / PPG / POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCERIN, is considered when an improvement of at least 9% in the rating is observed.

[0161] The stickiness score 45 seconds after application of composition A according to the invention, comprising 1% of PEG / PPG / POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCERIN, is significantly reduced compared to composition B outside the invention not comprising PEG / PPG / POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCERIN; from 2.35 to 2.1 (greater than 9%).

[0162] The stickiness rating 45 seconds after application of composition C outside the invention, comprising 1% PPG-26-BUTETH-26 (and) PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL is not significantly reduced compared to the reference, composition B outside the invention not comprising PEG / PPG / POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCERIN; from 2.35 to 2.25 (< 5%).

[0163] Thus, surprisingly, the compositions according to the invention comprising 1% by weight of PEG / PPG / POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCERIN significantly reduce the stickiness during the application of an aqueous composition comprising a high content of ascorbic acid (12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), and a cationic polymer such as polyquaternium-67, in comparison with a composition not comprising an oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (I) according to the invention (composition B).

[0164] Composition A according to the invention has good stickiness when applied to the skin.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: - at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one cationic polymer chosen from guar gums modified by a 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium salt and hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide [Chem. 2] , And - at least 0.2% by weight of an oxyalkylenated derivative of the following formula (I): Z-{O(AO)!(EO)m-(BO)nH}a ( I ) in which Z represents a radical obtained by elimination of one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups; AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 3 to 4 carbon atoms EO represents an oxyethylene group; BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms, a ranges from 3 to 9; 1, m, and n represent the average number of moles of AO, EO and BO units respectively, and 1 < 1 < 50, 1 < m < 50 and 0.5 < n < 5; the weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) ranging from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1 said composition having a pH between 5 and 7.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50 to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 85%.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol, and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least 10% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 15% by weight.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from Guar Hydroxypropyl Tri-Methyl Ammonium chloride and hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name poly-quaternium-67).

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of active material of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oxyalkylene derivative is chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): G 1 y —[0 (PO) s (EO) t- (BO) UH] 3 (il) in which: Gly represents a radical obtained by elimination of hydroxyl groups from glycerin; PO represents an oxypropylene group; EO represents an oxyethylene group; s and t respectively represent the average number of moles of PO units and have a value ranging from 1 to 50; the weight ratio of PO units to EO (PO / EO) ranges from 1 / 5 to 5 / 1; BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms; and u represents the average number of moles of BO units, and ranges from 0.5 to 5.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated derivative is chosen from polyoxybutylene poly-oxyethylene po-lyoxypropylene 8 / 5 / 3 glycerol (INCI name PEG / PPG / POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-8 / 5 / 3 GLYCERIN).

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the oxyalkylenated derivative is present in a content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 4% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.

5.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one base, preferably the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and more preferably sodium hydroxide.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosen from active agents, sequestrants, preservatives and perfumes, preferably it comprises at least one sequestrant chosen from salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid and / or at least one preservative, preferably chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and their mixtures.

13. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12.