Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an oil phase including at least one wax and at least one non-ionic surfactant and an aqueous phase representing at least 70% by weight of the total composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an oil phase including at least one wax and at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value less than 10, and an aqueous phase representing at least 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, particularly hair. The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibers, particularly hair.

Description

Title of the invention: A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an oily phase including at least one wax and at least one non-ionic surfactant, and an aqueous phase representing at least 70% by weight of the total composition.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an oily phase comprising at least one wax and at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 10 and an aqueous phase representing at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0003] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0004] Consumers, regardless of their hair type, and more particularly those with curly or frizzy hair, seek to control the shape of their hair and in particular to avoid the appearance of frizz.

[0005] Humidity is often the cause of frizz. It results from the loss of water from damp hair to its environment. Since ambient air is drier than damp hair, a vapor flow is created from the hair to its environment.

[0006] Although there are many anti-frizz formulas available, they generally do not provide hair with entirely satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties. In fact, these formulas often give hair an unnatural, stiff appearance, a greasy look, and unpleasant textures, such as a rough or oily feel.

[0007] In addition, on curly or frizzy hair, these formulas do not always allow for good curl definition.

[0008] In addition, there are mechanical and chemical solutions to limit frizz, such as straightening or smoothing treatments. However, these solutions often lead to weakening or even damage to the hair fibers.

[0009] Thus, there is a real need to develop a skincare composition enabling to control the volume and shape of the hair, in particular to limit the appearance of frizz, and to do so in a lasting way, while providing good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, such as a natural appearance, discipline, softness and shine as well as good curl definition.

[0010] This objective is achieved by the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: i) an oily phase comprising: - one or more waxes and - one or more non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of less than 10, and ii) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase i) and representing at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The composition of the invention is therefore in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion with a high content of aqueous internal phase (hereinafter referred to as HIPE for "high internal phase emulsion").

[0012] The composition according to the invention allows the user to control the volume and shape of their hair, and in particular to give an anti-frizz effect to the keratin fibers, with a natural, unfussy appearance to the hair. This effect is long-lasting throughout the day.

[0013] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to impart good cosmetic properties to keratin fibers, particularly to hair, notably in terms of smoothness to the touch and appearance, softness, shine, manageability, and suppleness. In particular, on curly or frizzy hair, it makes it possible to obtain well-defined, bouncy, and defined curls.

[0014] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain improved ease of detangling, as well as a lasting conditioning effect.

[0015] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0016] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0017] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples.

[0018] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - The expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be used there to be substituted, and implies that the limits are included; - "keratin fibers" in the present application means human keratin fibers, and more specifically hair.

[0019] For the purposes of the invention, and in the following description, the contents being generally measured and expressed as percentages by weight, "HIPE" or "high aqueous internal phase water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion" means: a W / O emulsion comprising at least 70%, preferably from 70 to 95%, preferably from 70 to 90%, by weight of aqueous internal phase ii) by the total weight of the emulsion. Preferably, the aqueous internal phase content ii) is less than or equal to 95% by weight by the total weight of the composition.

[0020] Advantageously, the ratio of aqueous phase ii) to oily phase i) in the composition in emulsion form according to the invention is in the range of 70 / 30 to 95 / 5, preferably from 72 / 28 to 90 / 10, more preferably from 75 / 25 to 85 / 15. Thus, the aqueous phase ii) advantageously represents from 70 to 95% by weight, preferably from 72 to 90% by weight, or even from 75 to 85% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] i) OILY PHASE The oily phase i) can also be called the "lipophilic phase" or even the "fatty phase".

[0022] The oily phase preferably represents 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises: - one or more waxes and - one or more non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of less than 10.

[0024] Waxes The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0025] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0026] The melting temperature of the waxes is preferably from 50°C to 150°C, more particularly from 60°C to 110°C.

[0027] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0028] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0029] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0030] We can also mention polyethylene waxes marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene, or under the reference Performa SW 100 synthetic wax by the company Nucera solutions.

[0031] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0032] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0033] As a wax, one can also use an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0034] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; in particular, carnauba microwaxes, such as that com marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

[0035] Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from beeswax or modified beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Preferably, the total content of the wax(s) is from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Preferably, the total content of the wax(s) chosen from beeswax or modified beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Non-ionic surfactants having an HLB of less than 10 The term HLB (from the English "Hydrophilic Lipophilie Balance") is well known to those skilled in the art and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25°C in the sense of Griffin.

[0040] By hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB), we mean the equilibrium between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The value of HLB according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0041] Preferably, the surfactants usable according to the invention have an HLB value ranging from 2 to 10, and more particularly from 4 to 8.

[0042] By way of example of such surfactants, one may cite in particular, alone or in mixtures:

[0043] a) (Poly)glycerol esters comprising 1 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in the C6-C30 range, preferably in the C8-C24 range, better in the C10-C20 range; these compounds may be selected from: - monoesters of glycerol and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20, - polyglycerol monoesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; examples include diglyceryl monooleate (INCI name polyglyceryl-2 oleate) such as that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-17B, polyglyceryl-2 laurate such as that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-12D; - polyglycerol diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; - polyglycerol triesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; - polyglycerol pentaesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; - polyglycerol hexaesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; - polyglycerol heptaesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; - polyglycerol decaesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20; - polyglycerol polyesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20;

[0044] b) polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched hydroxylated polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20, such as polyglycerol diesters comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units and hydroxylated polyacids, in particular 5 to 25 hydroxylated C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably 6 to 15 hydroxylated C16-C20 fatty acids;

[0045] c) polyglycerol ethers comprising 2 to 10 linear or branched glycerol and fatty alcohol units, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20;

[0046] d) esters of sorbitol and / or sorbitan and linear fatty acid(s) or branched(s), preferably linear, saturated) or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20;

[0047] e) sucrose esters and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20;

[0048] f) esters of methylglucose and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20.

[0049] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) having an HLB value of less than 10 are chosen from (poly)glycerol esters comprising 1 to 10 glycerol unit(s) and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) having an HLB value of less than 10 are chosen from monoesters of glycerol and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, better unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, better in C10-C20.

[0051] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 10 is diglyceryl monoleate.

[0052] Preferably, the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) having an HLB value of less than 10 ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the total content of diglyceryl monoleate is from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Clays The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more clays. Preferably, when present, these clays are included in the oily phase i).

[0055] Clays are products already well known in themselves, which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles, S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson.

[0056] Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from among the cations calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] In particular, we can mention clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as those of the vermiculite family, stevensite, chlorites.

[0058] Clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibers such as hair are used.

[0059] The clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay is bentonite or hectorite.

[0060] The clays can be selected from among the organophilic clays.

[0061] Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imi-dazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] We can thus mention hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium of fatty acid in C22 C1O, such as hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V(R), Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Stearalkonium hectorite) such as Bentone 27 V.

[0063] We can also mention quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone ARA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.

[0064] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the clay(s) are chosen from organophilic clays, more preferably from clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, and more preferably still from hectorites modified with a C22-Cl fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride. Even more preferably, the clay is a hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Stearalkonium hectorite) or a hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearalkonium hectorite).

[0065] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the clay(s) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride or by distearyldimethylammonium chloride ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Liquid fats The cosmetic composition of the invention may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances having a melting point of 25°C or lower, preferably 20°C or lower, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure and are not in a solid state.

[0068] When present, these liquid fats are included in the oily phase i).

[0069] In this application, this or these fats are also referred to as "liquid fat(s)" or "oil(s)".

[0070] Advantageously, the liquid fats usable in the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0071] Preferably, the liquid fats usable in the present invention are non-siliconized.

[0072] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0073] More specifically, the fat(s) having a melting point of 25 °C or lower are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, oils fluorinated hydrocarbon oils, ethers, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, alkyl or alkylene carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0075] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0076] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0078] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; no-nafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0080] The fat(s) having a melting point of 25°C or less may They may also be chosen from hydrocarbon ether oils. Such a hydrocarbon ether oil is an oil of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 being greater than or equal to 8; preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical.

[0081] The hydrocarbon oil ether(s) may be selected from di-caprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0082] More preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) are chosen from di-caprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and their mixtures and more preferably, dicaprylyl ether.

[0083] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0085] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0086] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate; mixture of coco caprate and caprylate; and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0088] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26-

[0089] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0091] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0092] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0093] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0094] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, including mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0095] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0097] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0098] With regard to alkylene carbonates, they can in particular be chosen among those of the following formula (1): o œ p—< ^4 b in which: R' denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R” represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; m is equal to 1, 2 or 3.

[0099] Preferably, the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched CrC4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched Ci-C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0100] R” represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C2 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched CrC2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0101] Preferably m equals 1.

[0102] Particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates may be cited in which the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), ethyl (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), hydroxymethyl (R'= -CH2OH; corresponding to glycerin carbonate).

[0103] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

[0104] With regard to alkyl carbonates, they may in particular be chosen from those of the following formula (2): R'-O-CO-OR” (2) in which: R' denotes an atony, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R” represents a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; the sum of the number of carbon atoms in R' and R” ranging from 2 to 6.

[0105] Preferably, the radical R' represents a linear alkyl radical in Ci-C3, a linear hydroxyalkyl radical in Ci-C2.

[0106] R' ' represents a linear Ci-C3 alkyl radical, a linear CrC2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0107] In particular, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate can be cited.

[0108] Preferably, when present, the fat(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols, alkylene carbonates and their mixtures, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil, propylene carbonate and their mixtures.

[0109] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C ranges from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Advantageously, when present, the total content of liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol, preferably isopropyl myristate, ranges from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [YES] Solid fats The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more fats having a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferably above or equal to 30°C and below 45°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In this application, this or these fats are also referred to as "solid fats".

[0112] These solid fats are different from waxes, that is to say, these solid fats have a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C.

[0113] When present, these solid fats are included in the oily phase i).

[0114] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0115] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0116] Preferably, solid fats are non-siliconized.

[0117] The fat or fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, C6-Ci8 dialkyl carbonates, butters, ceramides, solid mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized.

[0119] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0121] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0122] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0123] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0124] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0125] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0126] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0127] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0128] Examples include behenyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, adipate dioctyl, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, trihydroxystearine (glycerin and hydroxystearic acid triester) and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0130] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Di-alkyl carbonates can also be used in which the two alkyl groups, identical or different, are each C6-Ci8 groups, and preferably in C8-Ci2, such as dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0132] Butters can also be used.

[0133] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and less than or equal to 40°C.

[0134] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0135] We can mention more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0136] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.

[0137] Preferably, when present, the fat(s) having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearin, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s) having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point below 25°C, and / or one or more fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes.

[0140] Preferably, the total fat content (i.e. the total content of waxes, fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and fats having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C) is from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] ii) AQUEOUS PHASE The aqueous phase ii) represents at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the aqueous phase ii) advantageously represents 70 to 95% by weight, more preferably 72 to 90%, more preferably 75 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The aqueous phase ii) (also called the hydrophilic phase) of the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water. Preferably, the water content is at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin waters, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water and water from Tercis-les-bains, Avene water. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0144] Polyols The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more polyols. Preferably, when present, the polyol(s) are included in the aqueous phase (ii).

[0145] The polyol(s) may be selected from glycerin, propane diol; glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Preferably, the polyol(s) are present in the aqueous phase ii) and are miscible with water at room temperature (25 °C).

[0147] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; or possibly glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl(Cl-C4)ether of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, alkyl(Cl-C4)ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0148] Preferably, when present, the total content of the polyol(s) ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Thickening agents The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more thickening agents. Preferably, when present, the thickening agent(s) are included in the aqueous phase (ii).

[0150] These thickening agents are different from clays.

[0151] The thickening agent(s) may be selected from mineral or organic thickening agents. The thickener may be nonionic, cationic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0152] Among the thickening agents that can be used in the present invention, carboxyvinyl polymers such as crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (carbomer) such as those sold under the names Carbopol by Goodrich, polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel or Norgel by Guardian or under the name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica; and polyacrylamides such as the product sold under the name Sepigel 305 by Seppic.

[0153] The thickening agent(s) may also be chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.

[0154] By "polysaccharides" we mean polymers which have at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably the polysaccharides of the invention comprise between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.

[0155] The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable group.

[0156] The useful anionic polysaccharides according to the invention can be selected from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.

[0157] They can be natural or synthetic.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment, the useful anionic polysaccharides according to the invention are selected from native gums such as: • exudates from trees or shrubs including: gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (a polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (a polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid), scleroglucan gums.

[0159] For the purposes of the present invention, "microbial gums" means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.

[0160] Preferably, the thickening agent(s) are chosen from anionic polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic gums, more preferably still from anionic microbial gums, better from xanthan gums.

[0161] Preferably, when present, the total content of the thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] Preferably, when present, the total content of the thickening agent(s) chosen from xanthan gums ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Additives The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention, and among which may be mentioned surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic, nonionic (other than the nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 10 of the invention), or amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof; anti-dandruff agents; anti-seborrheic agents; vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol; sunscreens; sequestering agents; plasticizers; and other agents. solubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, and fillers, different from clays. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0164] The above additives can generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0165] It is understood that these additives can be added to the oily phase and / or the aqueous phase of the composition in the form of an emulsion of the invention.

[0166] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above. The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or moist keratinous materials, optionally after washing with shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to moist keratinous fibers.

[0167] Preferably, the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition.

[0168] They can then undergo heat and / or mechanical treatment, drying and / or shaping, for example smoothing using a heated iron.

[0169] The invention further relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair. The composition can be used on damp or dry hair, and preferably in leave-in mode (i.e., the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition).

[0170] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0171] Examples In the examples that follow, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] a) composition Composition A according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following table:

[0173] [Tables] Composition A Beeswax 2 Stearalkonium hectorite 1.9 Propylene carbonate 0.6 Isopropyl myristate 17.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Xanthan gum 1 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate (5.5 <hlb<6,5) 1,5 eau qsp 100

[0174] Composition 1 according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion of the HIPE type, i.e. with a high content of aqueous internal phase.

[0175] b} protocol The performance of composition A according to the invention was evaluated in relation to a comparative commercial composition recommended for reducing frizz (John Frieda extra-strength Frizz-Ease serum).

[0176] Strands of natural high-frizz (TYPE IV) Caucasian hair were pre-washed with DOP shampoo. The compositions were then applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.03g of composition per gram of hair. The strands were then left to air dry.

[0177] Five experts evaluated the following cosmetic properties on dry hair: - Anti-frizz effect: visually assessed - the more isolated hairs the strand has, the weaker the effect. - Flexibility: assessed by manipulating the hand to lift the suspended strand; the easier the strand is to lift, the more flexible it is. - Smooth touch: assessed by continuous finger pressure (between thumb and middle finger) along the fiber - the more homogeneous the touch, the stronger the "smooth touch". - Discipline after finger passage: assessment carried out after the smooth touch. The more regular and aesthetic the loop design, the stronger the discipline.

[0178] These parameters are rated between 0 and 5 relative to a reference wick wetted with water and air-dried. The higher the rating, the greater the effect.

[0179] The results are shown in the table below (average of the scores of the 5 experts):

[0180] [Tables2] Composition Comparative A Anti-frizz 2.6 ± 0.42 4 ± 0.00 Suppleness 3 ± 0.00 3.8 ± 0.27 Smooth touch 2.8 ± 0.27 3.5 + 0.35 Discipline 2 ± 0.00 3.3 + 0.27

[0181] Composition A according to the invention provides better cosmetic properties in terms of anti-frizz effect, suppleness, smooth feel and discipline compared to a comparative commercial composition.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: i) an oil phase comprising - one or more waxes - one or more non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of less than 10, and - one or more fats having a melting point of 25°C or less in a total content of 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the liquid fats used in the composition being non-siliconized; and ii) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oil phase i) and representing at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax or waxes are selected from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petrolatum wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax; waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof; preferably from among beeswax or modified beeswax, Camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the wax(s) ranges from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant(s) having an HLB value of less than 10 are selected from (poly)glycerol esters comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, preferably in C10-C20, and mixtures thereof, preferably among monoesters of glycerol and linear or branched fatty acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, preferably branched or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated, in C6-C30, preferably in C8-C24, preferably in C10-C20, more preferably the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value less than 10 is diglyceryl monoleate.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) having an HLB value of less than 10 ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more clays, preferably selected from organophilic clays, more preferably from clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, more preferably still from hectorites modified by a C22-CIO fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride, preferably the clay is a hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Stearalkonium hectorite) or a hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearalkonium hectorite).

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat or fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols, alkylene carbonates and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil, propylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially among cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearine, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase ii) represents from 70 to 95% by weight, preferably from 72 to 90%, more preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more polyols, preferably selected from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably still having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; or optionally glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl(Cl-C4)ether of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, alkyl(Cl-C4)ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more thickening agents, preferably selected from anionic polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic gums, more preferably still from anionic microbial gums, better from xanthan gums.

12. A cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

13. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.