Cosmetic composition comprising a clay, a wax and an ether hydrocarbon oil

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one clay, at least one wax, and at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrocarbon oil ether. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, particularly hair. The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for conditioning keratin fibers, particularly hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a clay, a wax and an ether hydrocarbon oil

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one clay, at least one wax and at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrocarbon ether oil.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers in which such a composition is applied to said fibers, as well as the use of this composition for the care of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0003] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0004] Consumers, regardless of their hair type, and more particularly those with curly or frizzy hair, seek to control the shape of their hair and in particular to avoid the appearance of frizz.

[0005] Humidity is often the cause of frizz. It results from the loss of water from damp hair to its environment. Since ambient air is drier than damp hair, a vapor flow is created from the hair to its environment.

[0006] Although there are many anti-frizz formulas available, they generally do not provide hair with entirely satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties. In fact, these formulas often give hair an unnatural, stiff appearance, a greasy look, and unpleasant textures, such as a rough or oily feel.

[0007] In addition, on curly or frizzy hair, these formulas do not always allow for good curl definition.

[0008] In addition, there are mechanical and chemical solutions to limit frizz, such as straightening or smoothing treatments. However, these solutions often lead to weakening or even damage to the hair fibers.

[0009] Thus, there is a real need to develop a care composition that allows control of the volume and shape of the hair, in particular to limit the appearance of frizz, and to do so in a lasting way, while providing good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, such as a natural appearance, discipline, softness and shine.

[0010] This objective is achieved by the present invention, which relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more clays, - one or more waxes, and - at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more hydrocarbon oils ethers.

[0011] The composition according to the invention allows the user to control the volume and shape of their hair, and in particular to give an anti-frizz effect to the keratin fibers, with a natural, unfussy appearance to the hair. This effect is long-lasting throughout the day.

[0012] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to impart good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibers, particularly in terms of smoothness to the touch and visual appearance, softness, shine, and manageability. In particular, on curly or frizzy hair, it makes it possible to obtain well-defined, bouncy, and defined curls.

[0013] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain improved ease of detangling, as well as a lasting conditioning effect.

[0014] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0015] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0016] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples.

[0017] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included; - "keratin fibers" in this application means human keratin fibers, and more specifically hair.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0019] By "fatty substance", we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at Atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fats and oils have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fats and oils are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0020] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 2% by weight and better still less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition does not include any water added during its preparation; any residual water present may come from the raw materials used during preparation. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of water.

[0021] Clays The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more clays.

[0022] Clays are products already well known in themselves, which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles, S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson.

[0023] Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from the cations calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] In particular, we can mention clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as those of the vermiculite family, stevensite, chlorites.

[0025] Clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibers such as hair are used.

[0026] The clay may be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay is bentonite or hectorite.

[0027] The clays can be selected from among the organophilic clays.

[0028] Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, acetate amines, imi- dazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] We can thus mention hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium of fatty acid in C22 C1O, such as hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V(R), Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Stearalkonium hectorite) such as Bentone 27 V.

[0030] We can also mention quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone ARA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.

[0031] Preferably, the clay(s) are selected from organophilic clays, more preferably from clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, and even more preferably from hectorites modified with a C22-CIO fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as distearyl-dimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride. Even more preferably, the clay is a hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Stearalkonium hectorite) or a hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearalkonium hectorite).

[0032] Preferably, the total content of the clay(s) ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Preferably, the total hectorite content modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride or by distearyldimethylammonium chloride ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] Waxes The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0035] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C and up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or They diffuse light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0036] The melting temperature of the waxes is preferably from 50°C to 150°C, more particularly from 60°C to 110°C.

[0037] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0038] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran waxes, Camauba waxes, Candellila waxes, Ouricury wax, Alfalfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0039] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0040] We can also mention polyethylene waxes marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene, or under the reference Performa SW 100 synthetic wax by the company Nucera solutions.

[0041] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0042] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0043] As a wax, one can also use an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O C40 (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in mixtures. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypoly ester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0044] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0045] Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran waxes, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba waxes, Candellila waxes, Alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the wax or waxes are chosen from beeswax or modified beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Preferably, the total content of the wax(s) is from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Preferably, the total content of the wax(s) chosen from beeswax or modified beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene wax and mixtures thereof, shall be from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Hydrocarbon oils and ethers The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon ether oils, in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] For the purposes of the invention, "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0051] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" covers a single or a mixture of several hydrocarbon oils.

[0052] The hydrocarbon ether oil can be volatile or non-volatile and preferably is non-volatile.

[0053] Such an ether hydrocarbon oil is an oil of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 being greater than or equal to 8; preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical.

[0054] Examples of linear alkyl groups include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.

[0055] Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dhnethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0056] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0057] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) chosen from among the ethers are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0058] More preferably, the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) are chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0059] More preferably, the hydrocarbon ether oil is dicaprylyl ether.

[0060] Preferably, the total content of the hydrocarbon ether oil(s) ranges from 15 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 19 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, better from 20 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Preferably, the total dicaprylyl ether content ranges from 15 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 19 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, better from 20 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Liquid fats The cosmetic composition of the invention may optionally further comprise one or more fatty substances having a melting point of 25°C or lower, preferably 20°C or lower, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure and are not in a solid state.

[0063] These liquid fats are different from hydrocarbon ether oils as described above.

[0064] In this application, this or these fats are also referred to as "liquid fat(s)" or "oil(s)".

[0065] Advantageously, the liquid fats usable in the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0066] Preferably, the liquid fats usable in the present invention are non-siliconized.

[0067] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0068] More particularly, the fat or fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25 °C are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, alkyl or alkylene carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-2 double bonds. carbon, conjugated or not.

[0070] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0071] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0073] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; no-nafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0075] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, examples include mono or saturated or unsaturated aliphatic polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0077] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0078] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate; the mixture of caprate and coco caprylate; and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0080] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

[0081] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] The composition may also include, as a fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which possess several Alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0083] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0084] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected, in particular, from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0085] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0086] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0087] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0089] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0090] With regard to alkylene carbonates, they may in particular be chosen from those of the following formula (1): O œ \ O \cHR'X in which: R' denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R” represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical, a linear or branched Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; m is equal to 1, 2 or 3.

[0091] Preferably, the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched Ci-C2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0092] R' ' represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C2 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched CrC2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0093] Preferably m equals 1.

[0094] As particularly advantageous examples of alkylene carbonates, we can cite the compounds for which the radical R' represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), ethyl (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), hydroxymethyl (R'= -CH2OH; corresponding to glycerin carbonate).

[0095] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

[0096] With regard to alkyl carbonates, they can in particular be chosen among those of the following formula (2): R'-O-CO-OR” (2) in which: R' designates an atom, a linear or branched Ci-C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical; R” represents a linear or branched Ci-C5 alkyl radical, a linear or branched CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical; the sum of the number of carbon atoms in R' and R” ranging from 2 to 6.

[0097] Preferably, the radical R' represents a linear alkyl radical in Ci-C3, a linear hydroxyalkyl radical in CrC2.

[0098] R' ' represents a linear Ci-C3 alkyl radical, a linear CrC2 hydroxyalkyl radical.

[0099] In particular, diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate can be cited.

[0100] Preferably, when present, the fat(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon ether oils, are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil and their mixtures.

[0101] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon oils and ethers, ranges from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 15 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Advantageously, when present, the total isopropyl myristate content will from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 15 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Solid fats The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more fats having a melting point above 25°C, preferably above or equal to 28°C, more preferably above or equal to 30°C, and below 45°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In this application, this or these fats are also referred to as "solid fats".

[0104] These solid fats are different from waxes, that is to say, these solid fats have a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C.

[0105] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0106] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0107] Preferably, the solid fats are non-siliconized.

[0108] The fat or fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, C6-Ci8 dialkyl carbonates, butters, ceramides, solid mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] By "fatty acids," we mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized.

[0110] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0112] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0113] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0114] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixtures: - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0115] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0116] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0117] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0118] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0119] Examples include behenyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, pelargonate octyl, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, trihydroxystearine (glycerin and hydroxystearic acid triester), and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0121] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Di-alkyl carbonates can also be used in which the two alkyl groups, identical or different, are each C6-Ci8 groups, and preferably C8-Ci2 groups, such as dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0123] Butters can also be used.

[0124] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and less than or equal to 40°C.

[0125] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0126] Particular examples include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter. sunflower.

[0127] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

[0128] Preferably, when present, the fat(s) having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, C6-Ci8 dialkyl carbonates, butters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearine, dicaprylyl carbonate, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Advantageously, when present, the total content of the fat(s) having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, ranges from 15 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon oils and ethers, and / or one or more fats having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes.

[0131] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon oils and ethers, and one or more fats having a melting point greater than 25°C and less than 45°C, other than waxes.

[0132] Organic solvents The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0133] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, polyols such as glycerol, pentylene glycol and sorbitol.

[0134] When present in the composition according to the invention, the organic solvent(s) generally represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Additives The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifiers, mineral or organic thickening agents, including polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, and different clay fillers. Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0136] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] The composition according to the invention can be presented in different forms. By way of example, the composition of the invention can be presented in the form of a serum, a stick or a balm.

[0138] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above. The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or moist keratinous materials, optionally after washing with shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to moist keratinous fibers.

[0139] Preferably, the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition.

[0140] They can then undergo heat and / or mechanical treatment, drying and / or shaping, for example smoothing using a heated iron.

[0141] The invention further relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair. The composition can be used on damp or dry hair, and preferably in leave-in mode (i.e., the keratin fibers are not rinsed after application of the composition).

[0142] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being intended to be limiting.

[0143] Examples In the examples that follow, all quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active ingredient (AI) by weight total composition. Example 1

[0144] a) compositions Compositions A to D according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Tables 1 and 2 below:

[0145] [Tables 1] Composition A Composition B Composition C Isopropyl myristate q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Cetearyl alcohol - - 27.15 Dicaprylyl ether 20 42.9 28.05 Coco-caprylate / caprate - - 9.35 Propylene carbonate 0.6 0.6 0.65 Stearalkonium hectorite 2 2 2.18 Beeswax - 2 8.07 Oleyl alcohol 6.5 - - Polyethylene wax 2 - - Behenyl alcohol 30 30 - Shea butter - - 3 Pentylene glycol - - 1 Behenyl behenate - 3 - Caprylyl glycol - - 0.3

[0146] [Tables2] Composition: Isopropyl myristate q.s. 100, Dicaprylyl ether 40, Propylene carbonate 0.58, Stearalkonium hectorite 1.94, Beeswax 2, Shea butter oil 30, Trihydroxystearine 2, Cetyl esters 4, Soybean oil (Glycine soja oil) 0.5, Polyglyceryl-2 oleate 1

[0147] Compositions A and B are in stick form.

[0148] Composition C is in the form of a balm.

[0149] Composition D is in the form of a serum.

[0150] b) protocol The performance of compositions A to D according to the invention was evaluated in relation to a commercially recommended comparative composition for reducing frizz (John Frieda extra strength Frizz-Ease serum). Strands of natural Caucasian hair with a high curl level (TYPE IV) were pre-washed with DOP shampoo. The compositions were then applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.03g of composition per gram of hair. The strands were then left to air dry.

[0151] Five experts evaluated the following cosmetic properties on dry hair: - Anti-frizz effect: visually assessed - the more isolated hairs the strand has, the weaker the effect. - Discipline after fingering: The lock of hair is grasped between the thumb and forefinger, and the fingers are slid with continuous pressure along the hair fiber. At the end of In this manipulation, the effect is visually assessed: the more regular and aesthetic the loop design, the stronger the discipline. These parameters are rated between 0 and 5 compared to a reference strand of hair that has been wet and air-dried. The higher the rating, the greater the anti-frizz effect or the more manageable the hair.

[0152] The results are shown in the table below (average of the scores of the 5 experts):

[0153] [Tables3] Composition Comparative ABCD Anti-frizz 2.6 3.4 3 4.1 3.4 Discipline 2 4.4 4.3 3.8 3

[0154] Compositions A to D according to the invention provide better results in terms of anti-frizz effect and in terms of discipline compared to the comparative composition.

Claims

Demands

1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more clays, - one or more waxes, and - at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more hydrocarbon oils and ethers.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the clay(s) are selected from organophilic clays, preferably from clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, more preferably from hectorites modified by a C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyl-dimethylammonium chloride, more preferably still, the clay is a hectorite modified by stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Stearalkonium hectorite) or a hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearalkonium hectorite).

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the clay(s) ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax or waxes are selected from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petrolatum wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran waxes, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba waxes, Candelila waxes, Alfalfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; polyethylene waxes; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof;preferably from beeswax or modified beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.;

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, ca- characterized in that the total content of the wax(s) ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon ether oil(s) are selected from oils of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, the sum of the carbon atoms of Ri and R2 being greater than or equal to 8; preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil ether(s) are selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof, preferably from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether and mixtures thereof, more preferably the hydrocarbon oil ether is dicaprylyl ether.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the hydrocarbon oil(s) ethers ranges from 15 to 80% by weight, preferably from 19 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, better from 20 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fats having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, other than hydrocarbon ether oils, preferably selected from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from isopropyl myristate, oleic alcohol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, soybean oil and mixtures thereof.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fats having a melting point above 25°C and below 45°C, other than waxes, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, dialkyl carbonates, and so on. C6-Ci8, butters, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably among cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, behenyl behenate, trihydroxystearine, dicaprylyl carbonate, shea butter and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more organic solvents, preferably selected from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, polyols such as glycerol, pentylene glycol and sorbitol.

12. A cosmetic treatment process for human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, said keratin fibers not being rinsed after application of the composition.

13. A method according to the preceding claim wherein the application of the composition is carried out on wet keratin fibers, and is followed by a heat treatment for drying.

14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.