Cosmetic composition comprising pullulan and liposomes carrying a hydrophilic active ingredient

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising pullulan and liposomes carrying a hydrophilic active ingredient. The present invention proposes to deliver a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient into liposomes made from lecithin, and to combine these liposomes with surfactin and pullulan. The invention also relates to a method for preparing this composition. Figure for the abstract: Fig. 1.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising pullulan and liposomes carrying a hydrophilic active ingredient. Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, more specifically to cosmetic compositions comprising biological active ingredients. Previous technique

[0002] Liposomes are commonly used to encapsulate active ingredients and improve their properties, including their ability to penetrate the epidermis, their stability, or their duration of action. They are made from lipids, usually phospholipids, which have a high affinity for the upper layers of the epidermis.

[0003] Liposomes carrying active ingredients are micrometric spherical vesicles comprising an outer lipid membrane formed by a molecular arrangement of phospholipids in a double layer. This highly stable membrane defines an internal volume in which a hydrophilic or lipophilic biological active ingredient can be trapped.

[0004] Application CN 113425620 describes vitamin A liposomes prepared from a premix comprising hydrogenated lecithin, a source of phospholipids, sodium surfactin, and polyols, to which the lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient was added in an oil, before emulsification in water under vigorous stirring. Liposomes comprising arbutin prepared from a mixture of lecithin, surfactin, and polyols were further described in application CN 111671664. Finally, application CN 113230186 taught the preparation of liposomes comprising hydrogenated lecithin, phosphatidylcholine, polyols, and surfactin.

[0005] Hydrogenated lecithin and surfactin are also commonly used surfactants for stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. For example, patent application KR 20030064986 described a surfactant system comprising a combination of lecithin and surfactin for preparing stable nanoemulsions containing lipophilic active ingredients.

[0006] The need nevertheless remains to have cosmetic products comprising hydrophilic active ingredients whose activity is improved by increasing their capacity for skin penetration. Description of the invention

[0007] The invention addresses this need by proposing to vectorize a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient in liposomes made from unsaturated lecithin, and to associate these liposomes containing surfactin and pullulan. The invention also relates to a method for preparing this composition.

[0008] The cosmetic product of the invention allows a hydrophilic active ingredient to be delivered through the epidermis, in order to better target its action.

[0009] The invention aims to optimize the transcutaneous penetration of a hydrophilic active ingredient by combining pullulan with a system comprising liposomes and surfactin.

[0010] The inventors have indeed discovered that the kinetics of transcutaneous penetration, and / or the kinetics of cutaneous release of hydrophilic active ingredients can be improved through this association.

[0011] Optimizing transcutaneous penetration is achieved in particular by improving penetration kinetics, with the penetration of the active ingredient and the release kinetics being controlled or delayed thanks to the combination of the invention. It can also be achieved by modulating the depth of penetration and / or the amount of bioavailable active ingredient at a given depth through the combined presence of liposomes, surfactin, and pullulan. Brief description of the drawings

[0012] [Fig. 1] The [Fig. 1] is a photograph obtained by transmission electron microscopy of the composition of the invention allowing visualization of the liposomes. Description of the implementation methods

[0013] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises water, surfactin or one of its salts, pullulan, liposomes and a hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0014] Water preferably represents 50% to 90% by mass of the composition. The composition is advantageously in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion suitable for use as a skin care product. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of an emulsion of an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising pullulan gelled in water.

[0015] The term "liposome" refers to a corpuscle comprising at least one outer wall formed of an amphiphilic lipid bilayer and delimiting at least one aqueous compartment. Liposomes may be unilamellar or multilamellar. Liposomes formed of a single lipid bilayer, usually called unilamellar liposomes, enclose a single aqueous compartment, while liposomes with several concentric walls, usually called multilamellar liposomes, enclose several aqueous compartments located between the bilayers and within the core of said liposomes.

[0016] The liposomes according to the invention can have an average diameter ranging from 200 nm to 500 nm, the size of the liposomes being measured by laser granulometry or by Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM).

[0017] Advantageously, the amphiphilic lipids forming the liposomes are predominantly or essentially unsaturated phospholipids in the sense that they include carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0018] A first object of the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising surfactin or one of its salts, pullulan and liposomes, the liposomes comprising a hydrophilic cosmetic active and unsaturated phospholipids from a lecithin.

[0019] The term "lecithin" implicitly refers to "non-hydrogenated lecithin," which can also be described as "unsaturated lecithin." Similarly, the phospholipids contained in lecithin are non-hydrogenated (or unsaturated) phospholipids as they exist in nature.

[0020] Lecithin is a naturally occurring compound defined as a mixture of phospholipids and glycolipids. The phospholipids contained in lecithin are generally phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, and phosphatidylinositol. Lecithin can be obtained by oil extraction from seeds, such as soybeans, corn, walnuts, or palm kernels, without undergoing chemical modification. The liposome bilayers used in the invention are preferably composed of phospholipids derived from soybean lecithin.

[0021] After extraction, the lecithin can be enriched in phosphatidylcholine without undergoing chemical modification, and preferably comprise more than 50% by mass, preferably more than 60% by mass and even more preferably more than 70% by mass of phosphatidylcholine.

[0022] Lecithin is obtained by extraction and purification without undergoing any chemical modification such as acetylation, hydroxylation, hydrogenation, or hydrolysis. Unsaturated lecithin that has undergone a hydrogenation treatment, aimed at at least partially converting the carbon-carbon double bonds of phospholipids into single bonds, will be referred to as "hydrogenated lecithin" in this description.

[0023] Unsaturated phospholipids preferably constitute more than 90% by mass, and even more preferably more than 99% by mass, of the total mass of phospholipids used to prepare the liposomes, or of the total mass of phospholipids constituting the liposomes. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the liposomes do not comprise hydrogenated phospholipids derived from hydrogenated lecithin. In this embodiment, the liposomes are not capable of being manufactured from hydrogenated lecithin.

[0024] Lecithin represents, for example, between 0.10% and 1.50% by mass or from 0.10% to 0.50% by mass of the total mass of all ingredients. This lecithin content may correspond to the lecithin content used as an ingredient to prepare the composition of the invention.

[0025] Liposomes can be obtained by a process comprising a step of preparing a premix comprising phospholipids, water, and a hydrophilic agent. The present application therefore describes a cosmetic comprising surfactin or one of its salts, pullulan, and liposomes, the liposomes being obtainable by a process comprising a step of preparing a premix comprising unsaturated phospholipids or lecithin, water, and a hydrophilic agent.

[0026] Thus, the liposomes contained in the composition of the invention can be manufactured from a mixture, referred to as the "liposome precursor mixture," which comprises unsaturated lecithin, the hydrophilic active ingredient, and water. The precursor mixture preferably comprises soy lecithin. In preparing the precursor mixture, a commercially available product under the brand name PRO-LIPO NEO® may be used as the lecithin source. This product contains, in addition to lecithin, an oil and a polyol.

[0027] The precursor mixture may include surfactin. However, in a particular embodiment of the invention, surfactin is not used to prepare the liposomes. The liposomes are advantageously free of polysaccharide(s) or may be prepared from a premix that does not contain polysaccharide(s). It is preferable that the liposomes not be encapsulated with a polysaccharide such as pullulan, for example.

[0028] The surfactin contained in the composition of the invention is a cyclic lipopeptide represented by the following formula (1) which can be obtained from the microorganism Bacillus Subtilis:

[0029] [Chem.l] C H II R—C—H2C—O—l-GIu—L-Leu—D-Leu—L-Val—L-Asp—D-Leu—LX ------------------------------O---------------1

[0030] wherein X represents an amino acid residue selected from the group consisting of leucine, isoleucine, valine, glycine, serine, alanine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, cysteine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, histidine, proline, 4-hydroxyproline and homoserine, and R represents a linear alkyl group or branched comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms. X is preferably leucine. R preferably represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 9 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0031] Surfactin salts include the sodium salt, potassium salt, monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, triethanolamine salt, lysine salt, and arginine salt. The surfactin salt is preferably a sodium salt (sodium surfactin).

[0032] In a particular embodiment, surfactin or one of its salts represents from 0.001% to 0.10% by mass, for example from 0.01% to 0.10% by mass, of the mass of the composition.

[0033] Pullulan, as defined in the invention, is a natural polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units, including alpha-1,4-glucan and alpha-1,6-glucan linkages, which can be used in cosmetic compositions. The three glucose units that make up the maltotriose are linked by alpha-1,4 glycosidic bonds, while the maltotriose units are linked together by alpha-1,6 glycosidic bonds. The number of glucose units can range from 300 to 3000. Pullulan is an extracellular polysaccharide produced by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans, preferably from starch. The starch can be partially hydrolyzed and derived from maize or potato. Preferably, pullulan is obtained by fermenting yeast in corn syrup (from the enzymatic hydrolysis of corn starch) at a temperature of 22°C-30°C.

[0034] The number-average molar mass (Mn) of pullulan preferably ranges from 50,000 to 500,000 Daltons, for example from 100,000 to 200,000 Daltons, in order to improve the penetration of the active ingredient into the epidermis without negatively impacting the viscosity and sensory characteristics of the composition. Pullulan is, for example, produced under the reference Pullulan PF 20® by Hayashibara Co. It preferably represents from 0.05% to 2.00% by mass of the composition, for example from 0.10% to 1.00% by mass or from 0.20% to 0.50% by mass of the composition.

[0035] The composition comprises a hydrophilic active ingredient. For the purposes of this invention, "active ingredient" means a compound capable of exerting a cosmetic effect on the skin, such as, for example, improving the radiance of the complexion, or improving the suppleness, softness, elasticity, or firmness of the skin. Another cosmetic effect may be a reduction in the depth of wrinkles.

[0036] The hydrophilic active ingredient is preferably an organic molecule comprising at least one oxygen atom, advantageously in the form of an -OH group and / or at least one -COOH group. The hydrophilic active ingredient is chosen in particular from caffeine or a plant extract containing it, gallic acid, lactic acid, tyrosol, succinic acid and epicatechin.

[0037] A plant extract containing caffeine may be an extract of Aframomum angustifolium, also known as "Madagascar Longoza" or "Madagascar Pearl." In a preferred embodiment, the Aframomum angustifolium extract is a seed extract (INCI name: Aframomum angustifolium seed extract). One example is the Aframomum angustifolium extract obtained using the hydroalcoholic extraction process (ethanol / water 70 / 30) described in patent application FR 2891458. This extract is listed under the INCI name: Alcohol, Aqua, Aframomum angustifolium seed extract.

[0038] According to a particular method, the green extract (eco-extraction) of Aframomum angustifolium or Longoza described in patent application WO 2019 / 122683 is used. This green extract, named "Perle de Madagascar Green N", has the INCI name: Butylene Glycol, Aframomum angustifolium seed extract, limonene. Alternatively, a product with the INCI name: Butylene Glycol, Aframomum angustifolium seed extract may be used.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, a product containing an extract of Aframomum angustifolium as described in Example 1 of application WO 2019 / 122683 will be used, said extract (in the form of a solution) comprising 1% dry matter in a butylene glycol solution. This product contains 1% by weight of dry extract of Aframomum angustifolium seed in an ethanol / water mixture (70 / 30).

[0040] In particular, the extract of Aframomum angustifolium is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 1%, in particular from 0.003% to 0.5%, preferably from 0.005% to 0.1%, preferably still from 0.007% to 0.05%; even more preferably from 0.008% to 0.03% and most preferably from 0.009% to 0.02% by weight of dry extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally at least one polyol, the water and the polyol forming part of the same phase, referred to as the aqueous phase. A "polyol" within the meaning of the invention is not a hydrophilic active ingredient as described above.

[0042] Examples of polyols include butylene glycols (such as 1,3-butylene glycol), pentylene glycols (such as 1,2-pentanediol), propanediols (such as 1,3-propanediol and propylene glycol), dipropylene glycol, hexanediols (such as 1,2-hexanediol), diglycerin, polyglycerin, and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, glycerol (INCI name: glycerin), xylitol, mannitol, and erythritol. These polyols can be used alone or in combination with two or more.

[0043] The total polyol(s) content may be from 5% to 30% by mass, in particular from 6% to 25% by mass, from 6% to 20% by mass, from 8% to 30% by mass, or from 8% to 12% by mass, based on the mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0044] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one polyol, and the total concentration of polyol(s) ranges from 5% to 10% by mass of the mass of the composition.

[0045] The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, defined as a compound other than pullulan that increases the viscosity of the aqueous phase and / or suspends the ingredients in the aqueous phase.

[0046] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include acrylic acid polymers, acrylic and methacrylic acid copolymers, carboxy-vinyl polymers, associative thickeners of the acrylic or polyurethane type, polysaccharide gelling agents other than pullulan such as alginates, natural or modified gums, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Examples of acrylic polymers include homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, also known as AMPS polymers, and their sulfonate salts. Acrylic polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 6,000,000 g / mol.

[0048] Examples of AMPS polymers suitable for the invention have the following INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyl tauramide, Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7, Acrylamide / Sodium Acry-loyldimethyl taurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0049] In a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is the polymer with INCI name hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, marketed under the name Sepinov® EMT 10 or Sepinov® EMT 10 MB by the company SEPPIC.

[0050] Examples of polysaccharides include xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, agars and sodium hyaluronate.

[0051] In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, including an AMPS polymer and a polysaccharide other than pullulan.

[0052] The content of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 0.7 to 4%, preferably from 0.9 to 3% and even more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0053] The aqueous phase may include, in addition to the compounds described above, at least one ingredient selected from perfumes, chelating agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0054] The composition may be in the form of an emulsion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase or an emulsion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase conforming to the preceding description.

[0055] The cosmetic composition of the invention in emulsion form may comprise at least one oil and at least one surfactant. The oil may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils.

[0056] As suitable surfactants for the composition of the invention in emulsion, examples include non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylated fatty acid and polyol esters, and for example polyethylene glycol stearates such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl monostearate and polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO) marketed under the name Simusol® 165 by Seppic; oxyalkylated fatty acid and sorbitan esters comprising for example 20 to 100 EO, and for example those marketed under the trade names Tween® 20 or Tween® 60 by Ubiqema; oxyalkylated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters, alkoxylated or not, such as sucrose stearate and PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate;sorbitan esters such as sorbitan palmitate marketed under the name Span® 40 by Uniqema or sorbitan isostearate marketed under the name Span® 120 by Croda; diacid and fatty alcohol esters, such as dimyristyle tartrate, or even hydrogenated lecithin.

[0057] Hydrogenated lecithin is obtained by a process of hydrogenating lecithin, which allows at least partial conversion of unsaturated bonds into saturated bonds. Hydrogenated lecithin can be derived from hydrogenated vegetable lecithin such as hydrogenated soy lecithin, hydrogenated corn lecithin, hydrogenated palm lecithin, and hydrogenated coconut lecithin. The hydrogenated lecithin content is, for example, between 0.1% and 2%, preferably between 0.2% and 1.5%, more preferably between 0.3% and 1%, by weight of the total weight of the emulsified cosmetic of the invention.

[0058] In addition to the hydrophilic active ingredient described above which can be used to prepare liposomes, the composition of the invention may contain at least one other active ingredient selected from among moisturizing agents, skin firming stimulants, elastase inhibitors, dermatopontin synthesis stimulants, pore tightening agents, pigmentation disorder stimulants, free radical scavengers or anti-inflammatory agents, magnesium aspartate, adenosine or D-xylose.

[0059] In addition to the ingredients described above, the composition of the invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients chosen from the group consisting of pigments, colorants, perfumes, sequestering agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives and sunscreens.

[0060] The composition may be in the form of a serum, a skincare cream, a lotion, a milk, a makeup remover or a makeup base.

[0061] The composition of the invention is advantageously capable of being prepared by a manufacturing process consisting of having a premix of lecithin, water, and the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, preparing liposomes comprising the hydrophilic active ingredient from this premix, preparing an aqueous gel comprising pullulan, and then mixing the liposomes and the aqueous gel. This process may also include preparing an emulsion from the aqueous pullulan gel, surfactin, and at least one oil, followed by a step of introducing the liposomes into this emulsion to obtain the composition of the invention.

[0062] A second object of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for skin care or makeup comprising the application to the skin of the cosmetic composition described above.

[0063] Finally, a third object of the invention relates to the use of the combination of surfactin or one of its salts, pullulan and liposomes based on unsaturated phospholipids, to improve the cutaneous penetration of a hydrophilic cosmetic active into the layers of the epidermis.

[0064] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed by mass relative to the total mass of the composition and the temperature is ambient temperature between 20°C and 25°C.

[0065] EXAMPLE 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention and evaluation of skin penetration

[0066] A composition according to the invention has been prepared comprising a combination of pullulan, surfactin and liposomes comprising caffeine as a hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0067] A reference composition identical to the composition according to the invention, except that it does not include pullulan, was also prepared.

[0068] The properties of these two compositions, in particular the penetration depth of the active ingredient, the penetration kinetics of the active ingredient and the release kinetics of the active ingredient, were evaluated. 1-Compositions and preparation process

[0069] The nature and mass percentage of the different ingredients of the two compositions are detailed in Table 1 below.

[0070] [Table 1] Table 1: Composition according to the invention and Comparative INGREDIENTS (chemical name, INCI name and / or commercial BRAND) Comparative Example 1 (PD Example 1 (P2) A, D, E2 AQUA qsp 100 qsp 100 C SQUALANE 6 6 A GLYCERIN 5 5 A BUTYLENE GLYCOL 3 3 E2 CAFFEINE 1 1 B PULLULAN - 1 El PROPANEDIOL (AND) LECITHIN (AND) TOCOPHEROL (AND) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (PRO-LIPO NEO®) 1 1 B HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SORBITAN ISOTEARATE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60 (SEPINOV® EMT 10 MB) 0.8 0.8 C CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 B Hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide 0.1 0.1 D SODIUM SURFACTIN 0.005 0.005 * The PRO-LIPO NEO® product contains 28% lecithin by mass

[0071] 2-Procedure for preparing the compositions: The mixture of the different ingredients is carried out at room temperature under Rayneri stirring. - Homogenize the ingredients of phase A. - Add the ingredients from phase B into phase A and stir until the gel is homogeneous. - Add the ingredients of phase C and mix at 100 rpm for approximately 10 minutes. Add the ingredients of phase D to the mixture obtained previously.

[0072]

[0073]

[0074]

[0075]

[0076]

[0077] pre-mixed, and mix at 100 rpm for about 5 minutes. - Prepare the liposomes of phase E by adding the previously mixed E2 ingredients to the El ingredient, then mix at 1500 rpm for 10 min. - Add the liposomes from phase E into the mixture of phases A to D, and mix at 600 rpm for 5 min. 3-Evaluation of transcutaneous penetration The study was conducted according to a protocol developed by the company Imabiotech. 3.1-Evaluation Protocol After applying the formulas to human skin expiants, 1 Opm thick sections are made with a cryostat (HM560 device) at a temperature of -20°C to -25°C. Skin sections are collected on ITO (indium tin oxide) slides and stored at -80°C until analysis. To enable analysis of the skin sections with the MALDI-FTICR instrument, the slides are placed in a desiccator at room temperature for five minutes to remove any traces of water. A MALDI matrix of 2,5-Dihydroxybenzoic acid (DHB) at a concentration of 40 mg / mL is then prepared in a 1:1 (v / v) methanol / water + Na3PO4 mixture. This matrix is ​​homogeneously deposited onto the skin sections using a TM Sprayer device. After matrix deposition, the tissues are analyzed using imaging with the MALDI-FTICR instrument (Solarix). To detect the compounds of interest, the analytical method has the following characteristics: - Mode: CASI (Accumulation of Selected Ion) - Polarity: Positive - Mass range: Centered on the mass / charge ratio of the compound of interest with a mass window of 50 Daltons. - Spatial resolution: The spatial resolution is between 20 and 50pm. After analysis by mass spectrometry with the MALDI device, the intensities measured for the compounds of interest are extracted and then compared in order to see the evolution of the signal as a function of molecular weight but also of depth in the tissue. 3.2-Results [Table 2] Table 2: Relative amounts of caffeine at T2 hours* P1-T2H P2-T2H Epidermis (n=2) 100% 45% RSD (%) Epidermis (n=2) - 91 Dermis (n=2) 100% 53% RSD (%) Dermis (n=2) - 18 Total (n=2) 100% 50% RSD (%) Total (n=2) - 37 *Based on the sum of Faire under the curve (AUC); Formulation P1-T2H used as reference (100%)

[0078] [Table 3] Table 3: Relative amounts of caffeine at T8 hours* P1-T8H P2-T8H Epidermis (n=2) 100% 148% RSD (%) Epidermis (n=2) - 66 Dermis (n=2) 100% 103% RSD (%) Dermis (n=2) - 28 Total (n=2) 100% 108% RSD (%) Total (n=2) - 32 * Based on the sum of the area under the curve (AUC); Formulation P1-T8H used as reference (100%) 3.3 - Conclusion

[0079] The composition of the invention does indeed have a “delaying” effect since significantly less caffeine is found in all layers of the skin after 2 hours compared to the composition not including pullulan.

[0080] Furthermore, the composition of the invention acts as a "reservoir" because an equivalent to or slightly greater quantity is found after 8 hours compared to the composition without pullulan, and this in all layers of the skin. However, at 8 hours, more caffeine is found with P2 in the epidermis and the upper dermis; this indicates targeted action, since the active ingredient acts in this area.

[0081] EXAMPLE 2; Serum A composition according to the invention has been prepared, the ingredients of which are detailed in Table 4 below. The percentages are expressed by mass on the basis of 100%.

[0082] [Table 4] Table 4: Composition according to the invention Ingredients % Butylene Glycol (and) Aframomum Angustifolium Seed Extract 2.0 Limonene (PERLE DE MADAGASCAR GREEN N*) Propanediol (and) Lecithin (and) Tocopherol (and) Helianthus seed oil (PRO-LIPO® NEO**) 1.0 Pullulan 0.3 Sodium surfactant (KANEKA) 0.05 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Polysorbate 60 (SEPINOV® EMT 10 MB) 0.8 Hydrogenated lecithin (EMULMETIK® 950) 0.5 Lauroyl lysine 1.0 Trimethyl glycine 3.0 Anti-aging cosmetic actives 0.3 Glycerol 5.3 Glycols 4.1 Polyglycerols 3 Vegetable oil 2.5 Squalane 3.5 Perfumes 0.3 Preservatives qs Chelating agent 0.01 Ethanol 5.0 Purified Water q.s. 100 * The PERLE DE MADAGASCAR GREEN N product contains 1% by dry weight of Longoza extract.

[0084] ** The PRO-LIPO® NEO product contains 28% lecithin by mass

[0085] The composition is a gelled aqueous composition comprising liposomes, prepared separately in a premix, according to the preceding example.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising surfactin or one of its salts, pullulan and liposomes, the liposomes comprising a hydrophilic cosmetic active and unsaturated phospholipids from a lecithin.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that unsaturated phospholipids represent more than 90% by mass of the mass of all phospholipids constituting the liposomes.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion of an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase comprising pullulan gelled in water.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic active ingredient is selected from caffeine, an extract of Aframomum angustifolium, gallic acid, lactic acid, tyrosol, succinic acid and epicatechin.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one polyol, and the total concentration of polyol(s) ranges from 5% to 10% by mass of the mass of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that pullulan represents from 0.05% to 2.00% by mass of the mass of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that surfactin or one of its salts represents from 0.001% to 0.10% by mass of the mass of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that lecithin represents between 0.10% and 1.50% by mass of the mass of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a serum, a skincare cream, a lotion, a milk, a makeup remover or a makeup base.

10. A cosmetic process for skin care or makeup comprising the application to the skin of the cosmetic composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

11. Use of the combination of surfactin or one of its salts and pullulan, to improve skin penetration into the layers of the epidermis of a hydrophilic cosmetic active present in liposomes comprising unsaturated phospholipids from a lecithin, said improvement consisting of delaying the release of the hydrophilic active, modulating the depth of penetration of said active, and / or modulating the amount of said bioavailable active at a given depth.

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