Composition for improved smoothing of keratin fibers

Abstract

Composition for Improved Smoothing of Keratin Fibers. The present invention relates to a composition for smoothing keratin fibers, such as hair, by heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid; and (c) water. The present invention can improve a composition for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair by heating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing the keratin fibers with less color fading and / or more durable smoothing effects. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition for improved smoothing of keratinous fibers technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair. PREVIOUS ART

[0002] Straightening keratin fibers such as hair by heating them with a flat iron is a common practice. This makes unruly keratin fibers manageable, reduces volume, and improves their appearance. While this straightening method using a flat iron is convenient for quick styling, the hairstyle only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next shampoo. Many consumers require a more long-lasting straightening method.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent straightening methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can offer keratin fibers a durable style, but they have several disadvantages such as a long treatment time, damage to keratin fibers and a bad smell.

[0004] Document WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which the composition includes glyoxylic acid. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] It remains necessary to improve the smoothing of keratinous fibers on the basis of heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide an improved composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can prevent or reduce the discoloration of the keratinous fibers and / or can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable smoothing effects.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; b. at least one metallic salt of an organic acid; and c. of water.

[0008] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

[0009] The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The metal of the organic acid metallic salt (b) can be chosen from magnesium, calcium and zinc.

[0011] The organic acid of the metal salt of organic acid (b) can be chosen from the α-hydroxy acids, preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid.

[0012] The metallic salt of organic acid (b) may be magnesium, calcium or zinc gluconate.

[0013] The quantity of the metallic salt(s) of organic acid (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one betaine compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, camitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

[0016] The quantity of the betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or a thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may not include any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may include less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a method for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of a composition on keratinous fibers; ii. possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers, with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and iii. smoothing of keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C,

[0020] in which

[0021] The composition comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one metallic salt of an organic acid; and b. water.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a kit for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0023] at least one heating element, preferably a heating iron, which is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C; and

[0024] at least one composition comprising a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one metallic salt of an organic acid; and b. water.

[0025] The present invention also relates to the use of (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and a. water,

[0026] in order to prevent or reduce discoloration of keratinous fibers

[0027] and / or

[0028] prolong the smoothing effects for keratin fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of keratin fibers, or to prevent or reduce the waviness of keratin fibers. Best embodiment of the invention

[0029] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to to provide an improved composition for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can prevent or reduce discoloration of keratin fibers and / or can provide more durable smoothing effects.

[0030] Thus, the present invention relates primarily to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one metallic salt of organic acid; and b. water.

[0031] The present invention can improve a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing the keratinous fibers with less bleaching effects and / or more durable smoothing effects.

[0032] The present invention can prevent or reduce the discoloration of keratin fibers. Thus, the color of keratin fibers before and after their treatment with the present invention can be maintained or not change substantially. For example, the color of dyed keratin fibers would not show a significant change before and after their treatment with the present invention.

[0033] The present invention can impart more lasting smoothing effects to keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers obtained through the use of a composition comprising only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the straight shape of keratinous fibers over time.

[0034] For example, if the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can offer better prevention against the return of the keratin fibers to their original wavy shape, after straightening of the keratin fibers, in particular after shampooing.

[0035] In the present invention, the use of at least one metallic salt of an organic acid can prevent or reduce color change in keratin fibers due to smoothing and / or can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects on keratin fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the use of at least one metallic salt of an organic acid can prevent or reduce discoloration of dyed keratin fibers and / or can better maintain their shape straightening of keratinous fibers conferred by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, or may prevent or reduce the undulation of keratinous fibers.

[0036] The present invention can also impart sufficient immediate smoothing effects to keratin fibers. Thus, keratin fibers treated with the present invention can exhibit less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of the keratin fiber curls. The smoothing effects imparted by the present invention can last a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can also impart a shape to keratin fibers with good shampoo resistance.

[0037] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional smoothing processes, because the present invention does not require the use of reducing / oxidizing agents. Consequently, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage. Furthermore, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be more resistant than those treated by conventional smoothing processes.

[0038] Furthermore, the present invention may use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and consequently, the odor during the use of the present invention may be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention may offer ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0039] We will describe the present invention in detail below.

[0040] [Composition]

[0041] The composition according to the present invention, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one metallic salt of organic acid; and b. water.

[0042] It is preferable that the above composition be a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for smoothing keratin fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for smoothing keratin fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers be hair.

[0043] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

[0044] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Only one type of compound (a) may be used, but two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.

[0046] Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

[0047] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include, for instance, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0048] Examples of glyoxylic acid salts include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0049] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl esters of glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0050] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0051] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).

[0052] The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Furthermore, the quantity of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] [Metallic salt of organic acid]

[0056] The composition according to the present invention may include (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid. Two or more of these salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of these salts or a combination of different types of these salts may be used.

[0057] If a plurality of metallic salts of organic acid are used, it is possible that the types of organic acid may be different and / or that the types of metal may be different.

[0058] The metal of the metallic salt of organic acid (b) can be chosen from alkali metals, in particular sodium and potassium.

[0059] The metal of the metallic salt of organic acid (b) can be chosen from alkaline earth metals, in particular magnesium and calcium.

[0060] The metal of the organic acid metallic salt (b) can be chosen from transition metals and elements of group 12 of the periodic table such as zinc.

[0061] The organic acid of the metal salt of organic acid (b) can be chosen from among the α-hydroxylated acids.

[0062] α-Hydroxylated acids can be represented by the following formula (I): fa 0

[0063] in which

[0064] RI = H, -OH, -NH2, -CH2COOH or an alkyl group in linear or branched Ci 4,

[0065] R2 = H,- COOH, -CHOH-COOH, -CF3,- CH=CH2, -NHCONH2, an alkyl Ci_8 linear, branched or cyclic optionally substituted by a radical chosen from -OH, Cl, -NH2, -COOH, CF3 and -SCH3; a phenyl or benzyl optionally substituted by a radical -OH or -OCH3; or the radical

[0066] RI and R2 can also together form an oxo radical (=0) or a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl ring with the carbon atom to which they are attached, or even the radical

[0067] when RI = H, R2 can also represent a radical -(CHOH)2CH2OH or -(CHOH)3CH2OH, R = -OH or -NR3R4 with R3, R4 = H or a linear or branched Ci 4 alkyl optionally substituted by one or two OH radicals, as well as stereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.

[0068] The α-hydroxylated acids may be selected from the following:

[0069] glycolic acid, oxalic acid, lactic acid, 1-hydroxy-l-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isoserine, glyceric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, acid 1-Hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, citramic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid, mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid, glyoxylurea, 3-imidazolelactic acid, 2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid, hexahydromandelic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, arabic acid, 3-phenyllactic acid, hydroxyphenylglycine, 3-hydroxymandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, L-arginic acid, 3-methoxymandelic acid, 4-methoxymandelic acid, 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid, tartronic acid, 3-chlorolactic acid, 1-cyclopentanol-l-carboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid 2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutyric acid, α-hydroxyisocaproic acid, α-hydroxycaproic acid, 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid, malic acid, hydroxytartronic acid, gluconic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N-ethyllactamide, N,N-dimethyllactamide,N-2-Hydroxyethyllactamide, and stereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.

[0070] It may be preferable that the α-hydroxylated acid be chosen from the group consisting of glycolic acid, oxalic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, arabic acid, gluconic acid, hydroxytronic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N-ethyllactamide and N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide.

[0071] It may be preferable that the α-hydroxylated acid be chosen from the group consisting of gluconic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid.

[0072] It may be even more preferable that the metallic salt of organic acid (b) be magnesium gluconate, calcium gluconate or zinc gluconate.

[0073] The quantity of the metal salt(s) of organic acid (b) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Furthermore, the quantity of the metallic salt(s) of organic acid (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] The quantity of the metallic salt(s) of organic acid (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] (Water)

[0077] The composition according to the present invention includes water (c).

[0078] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0079] The quantity of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Furthermore, the quantity of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] The quantity of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] (Betaine compound)

[0083] The composition according to the present invention may further include (d) at least one phosphate compound. Only one specific type of betaine compound may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds may be used in combination.

[0084] The expression "betaine compound" herein refers to an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic fraction and a negatively charged anionic fraction, in which no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic fraction and the positively charged cationic fraction may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic fraction.

[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound (d) here is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part.

[0086] The positively charged cationic fraction in the betaine (d) compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine (d) compound includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic fraction.

[0087] The negatively charged anionic fraction in the betaine (d) compound includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

[0088] The betaine compound (d) can be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably trimethylglycine.

[0089] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the compound(s) betaine(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.2% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention to be 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The amount of betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention to be from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] (pH)

[0093] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0094] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0095] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0096] (Alkaline agent)

[0097] The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, according to the present invention, may include at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0098] The alkaline agent is different from the betaine compound (d).

[0099] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include one or more alkaline agent(s), if compound (a) can be used to reduce the pH of the composition.

[0100] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0101] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include... calcium and magnesium hydroxide. As inorganic alkali agents, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

[0102] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0103] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups in the C1-C4 position. In particular, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0104] The diamines can be described in the structure (B) below: R'\ z^ <B) NW-N / X R, R. O Ls

[0105] in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a Ci-C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which can be illustrated by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0106] The quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] The alkali agent(s) may be used in an amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] (Acid)

[0110] The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, according to the present invention, may include at least one acid that is different from compound (a) or betaine compound (d). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0111] The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0112] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include one or more acid(s), if compound (a) can be used to increase the pH of the composition.

[0113] As an acid, mention can be made of all inorganic or organic acids that are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.

[0114] The quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Furthermore, the quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The acid or acids may be used in a total quantity of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] (Other optional ingredients)

[0118] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, selected in particular from: oils, preferably polar oils, and more preferably ester oils, in the form of a liquid at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure; solid fatty substances and in particular C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids and C8-C40 alcohols, at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

[0119] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers. ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.

[0120] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

[0121] (Ammonia and thiol compound)

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention should be free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0123] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0124] The compound thiol here refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0125] The thiol compound can be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent can be chosen in the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its Ci-C4 acylated derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine ​​and alkyl cysteine ​​esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including s-alkyl derivatives, as well as salts thereof.

[0126] Examples of the above-mentioned salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. For example, a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine is... Monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively, may be mentioned.

[0127] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and their derivatives; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 514 282; the (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and the mixture based on hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application no. 2 679 448.

[0128] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

[0129] The composition according to the present invention may include a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably be free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0130] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0131] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0132] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0133] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0134] (Form)

[0135] The compositions used according to the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil); a soft consistency suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0136] The compositions according to the present invention can be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the compositions according to the present invention can be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.

[0137] [Procedure]

[0138] The present invention also relates to a method for smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of a composition on the keratinous fibers; i. possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and ii. smoothing of keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C,

[0139] in which

[0140] The composition comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one metallic salt of organic acid; and b. water.

[0141] The details of the composition used in the process according to the present invention are the same as those explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[0142] The process according to the present invention is intended for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, preferably for long-term smoothing and, more preferably, for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent smoothing process.

[0143] It is preferable to clean the keratin fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (i).

[0144] In step (i), the composition, which is described above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and comb.

[0145] The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.8 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0146] It may be possible that, after application of the composition, the keratinous fibers are left as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratinous fibers.

[0147] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may include an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0148] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed to remove the keratin fiber composition. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers not be dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer.

[0149] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

[0150] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to straightening at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C, and more preferably more than 150 °C, with a heating element, preferably a heated iron. This temperature may be less than 250 °C, preferably less than 240 °C, and more preferably less than 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and more preferably more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0151] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0152] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then that the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0153] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0154] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0155] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0156] [kit]

[0157] The present invention also relates to a kit for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0158] at least one heating element capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably, more than 150 °C; and

[0159] at least one composition comprising a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one metallic salt of organic acid; and b. water.

[0160] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0161] It is preferable that the heating element be a heating iron, as explained in the [Procedure] section above.

[0162] The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one betaine compound. The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The above explanations concerning compound (a), the organic acid metal salt (b) and water (c), as well as betaine compound (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for the kit according to the present invention.

[0164] [Usage]

[0165] The present invention also relates to the use of (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and a. water;

[0166] with a view to

[0167] prevent or reduce discoloration of keratinous fibers

[0168] and / or

[0169] prolong the smoothing effects for keratin fibers by composition, in particular to further maintain the straight shape of keratin fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of keratin fibers.

[0170] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0171] The use of at least one metallic salt of organic acid (b) can prevent or reduce the color change of keratinous fibers, in particular dyed keratinous fibers, due to smoothing by a composition comprising compound (a).

[0172] The use of at least one metallic salt of organic acid (b) can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers provided by compound (a).

[0173] The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one betaine compound. The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] The above explanations concerning compound (a), the organic acid metal salt (b), and water (c), as well as betaine compound (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for the purpose of the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0175] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-9 and comparative examples 1-5

[0176] [Preparations]

[0177] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 and 5 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in tables 1 and 2. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0178] [Tables] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight) 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 Magnesium gluconate 0.5 0.5 0.5 1 1 1 5 5 5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Betaine (trimethylglycine) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Potassium hydroxide - qs pH 2 qs pH 3 - qs pH 2 qs pH 3 - - qs pH 3 HCl qs pH 1 - - qs pH 1 - - qs pH 1 qs pH 2 - Water qs 100 qs 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Color (AE) 12.0 10.0 9.5 10.8 10.0 9.0 9.5 9.7 7.4 Smoothing Effects 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Smoothing Effects (after 1 shampoo) 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 Smoothing Effects (after 7 shampoos) 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 5 3 Frizz Control 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Frizz Control (after 1 shampoo) 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 5 4 Frizz Control (after 7 shampoos) 4 4 3 4 3 4 3 3 3

[0179] [Tables2] Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Ex. comp. 4 Ex. comp. 5 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight) - - - 14 14 Magnesium gluconate 5 5 5 - - Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 Betaine (trimethylglycine) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Potassium hydroxide - - - - qs pH 3 HCl qs pH 1 qs pH 2 qs pH 3 qs pH 1 - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Color (AE) 5.1 2.9 2.5 13.3 10.8 Smoothing effects 5 5 5 6 6 Smoothing effects (after 1 shampoo) 2 2 2 4 4 Smoothing effects (after 7 shampoos) 1 1 1 4 2 Frizz control 5 5 5 6 Frizz control (after 1 shampoo) 1 1 1 3 2 Frizz control (after 7 shampoos) 1 1 1 2 1

[0180] [Evaluations]

[0181] Coloring: A 27 cm strand of natural white Chinese hair was colored to a warm brown using an oxidative hair dye (L'Oréal Professional, Alluria Fashion Gray). Three grams of a mixture of the oxidative hair dye and a developer (L'Oréal Professional Alluria Cream Oxydant 6% H2O2) were applied to 1 g of the hair strand, and the hair was left for 30 minutes at a temperature of 27°C. The hair was rinsed and shampooed to complete the hair coloring process as preparation before the styling process.

[0182] Styling: 2 g of each composition was then applied to 1 g of the hair strand and left for 10 minutes at a temperature of 30 °C. The hair strand was rinsed under lukewarm running water for 30 seconds and then dried using The hair strand was dried with a hairdryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) until completely dry. The hair strand was then straightened with a heated hair straightener (ADST-2, Hakko limited, Japan) at 180°C for three 4-second passes, from the tip to the root of the hair strand.

[0183] Shampooing: The hair strand was then moistened with a finger under warm running water for 5 seconds. The hair strand (1 g) was washed with 0.4 g of shampoo, containing 10.5% sodium laureth sulfate, using 6 finger strokes, and then rinsed for 10 seconds with a finger. The hair strand was then dried with a hairdryer until completely dry.

[0184] (Color)

[0185] The L*a*b* (luminosity / green-red / blue-yellow) values ​​of the newly colored hair strand were measured using a spectrophotometer (CM-3600A, Konica Minolta, Japan). Four (4) points were measured on the hair strand.

[0186] After styling and shampooing, the L*a*b* values ​​were measured again. AE* was determined (between the hair strand color before styling and shampooing and the hair strand color after styling and shampooing, based on CIE1976). A lower AE value indicates less bleaching.

[0187] The results are shown on the line labeled "Color" in Tables 1 and 2.

[0188] (Smoothing effects)

[0189] The smoothing effects on the hair strand provided by each composition, immediately after styling, after styling and one shampoo, and after styling and seven shampoos, were evaluated respectively by visual observation according to the following criteria. The more the shape was maintained in a straight line, the higher the value given for this attribute.

[0190] 6: Perfectly straight from root to tip

[0191] 5: Straight

[0192] 4: Relatively straight, with some loops

[0193] 3: Partially straight and loops observed

[0194] 2: Less straight and more loops observed

[0195] 1: Looped

[0196] The results are presented on the lines entitled "Smoothing effects", "Smoothing effects (after 1 shampoo)" and "Smoothing effects (after 7 shampoos)" in Tables 1 and 2.

[0197] (Frizz Control)

[0198] The frizz control performance of each hair strand provided by each composition, immediately after styling, after styling and one shampoo, and after styling and seven shampoos, was evaluated by visual observation according to the following criteria. The higher the score, the less frizz or flyaway the hair exhibits.

[0199] 6: Perfectly controlled frizz, total absence of flyaways

[0200] 5: Frizz well controlled, no flyaways observed

[0201] 4: Frizz relatively controlled, very few flyaways observed

[0202] 3: Frizz partially controlled, few flyaways observed

[0203] 2: Frizz slightly controlled, a few stray hairs observed

[0204] 1: Uncontrolled frizz, numerous unruly hairs observed

[0205] The results are shown on the lines entitled "Frizz control", "Frizz control (after 1 shampoo)" and "Frizz control (after 7 shampoos)" in Tables 1 and 2.

[0206] (Summary)

[0207] Compositions according to Examples 1 to 9 including: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid and (c) water, have been able to reduce the discoloration of keratinous fibers dyed by the straightening process, and have been able to reduce the loss of the straight shape of straightened keratinous fibers even after several shampoos.

[0208] The compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 3 did not include ingredient (a), and therefore they could not maintain the smoothing effects even after 1 shampoo.

[0209] The compositions according to comparative examples 4 and 5 did not include ingredient (b), and therefore could not provide lasting smoothing effects.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid, which is magnesium gluconate; and (c) water.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the amount of the organic acid metal salt(s) (b) in the composition is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one betaine compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

5. A process for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition to the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and (iii) straightening the keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C, wherein the composition comprises: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metallic salt of organic acid, which is magnesium gluconate; and (c) water.

6. Kit for straightening keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one heating element, preferably a heating iron, which is capable of supplying the keratinous fibers with a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C; and at least one composition comprising (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one metallic salt of an organic acid, which is magnesium gluconate; and (c) water.

7. Use of at least one metallic salt of an organic acid, which is magnesium gluconate (b) in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (c) water, for the purpose of preventing or reducing discoloration of keratinous fibers and / or prolonging the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers by the composition, in particular to further maintain the straight shape of keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of keratinous fibers.