IMPROVED KERATIN FIBER SMOOTHING PROCESS

Abstract

IMPROVED KERATIN FIBER STRAIGHTENING METHOD The present invention relates to a method for straightening keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition to the keratin fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers with or without drying the keratin fibers after rinsing; and (iii) straightening the keratin fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound and (c) water.The present invention can improve a method for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, by providing more durable smoothing effects. Figure for abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: IMPROVED SMOOTHING METHOD FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method, in particular a cosmetic method, for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair. PREVIOUS ART

[0002] Straightening keratin fibers such as hair by heating them with a flat iron is a common practice. This makes unruly keratin fibers manageable, reduces volume, and improves their appearance. While this straightening method using a flat iron is convenient for quick styling, the hairstyle only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next shampoo. Many consumers require a more long-lasting straightening method.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent straightening methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can offer keratin fibers a durable style, but they have several disadvantages such as a long treatment time, damage to keratin fibers and a bad smell.

[0004] Document WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a method for smoothing keratin fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to smooth the keratin fibers. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] It remains necessary to improve the smoothing of keratinous fibers based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide an improved method for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable smoothing effects.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

[0008] (i) application of a composition on keratinous fibers;

[0009] (ii) possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers, with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and

[0010] (iii) smoothing of keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C,

[0011] in which

[0012] the composition comprises

[0013] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0014] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0015] (c) water.

[0016] It is preferable that the above composition be applied to moist keratinous fibers.

[0017] The pH of the above composition may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

[0018] The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the above composition may be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The betaine (b) compound may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The quantity of the betaine compound(s) (b) in the above composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The quantity of water (c) in the above composition can be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0023] Compound (d) can be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

[0024] The quantity of compound (d) in the above composition may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The above composition may not include any ammonia or thiol compound, or may include less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or a thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The above composition may not include any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may include less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heating, comprising:

[0028] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0029] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0030] (c) water.

[0031] The present invention also relates to a kit for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0032] at least one heating element, preferably a heating iron, which is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C; and

[0033] at least one composition comprising

[0034] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0035] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0036] (c) water.

[0037] The present invention also relates to the use of (b) at least one betaine compound in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising:

[0038] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0039] (c) water

[0040] in order to prolong the smoothing effects for keratin fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of keratin fibers, or to prevent or reduce the waviness of keratin fibers. Best embodiment of the invention

[0041] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide an improved process for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable smoothing effects.

[0042] Thus, the present invention also relates to a method for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

[0043] (i) application of a composition on keratinous fibers;

[0044] (ii) possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and

[0045] (iii) smoothing of keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C,

[0046] in which

[0047] the composition includes

[0048] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0049] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0050] (c) water.

[0051] The present invention can improve a process for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair based on heating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, by providing more durable smoothing effects.

[0052] The present invention can impart more durable smoothing effects to keratin fibers such as hair. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects for keratin fibers obtained through the use of a composition comprising only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight shape of keratin fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the straight shape of keratin fibers over time.

[0053] For example, if the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can offer better prevention against the return of the keratin fibers to their original wavy shape, after straightening of the keratin fibers, in particular after shampooing.

[0054] In the present invention, the use of at least one betaine compound can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects on keratin fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the use of at least one betaine compound can further maintain the straight shape of the keratin fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, or can prevent or reduce the waviness of the keratin fibers.

[0055] The present invention can also impart sufficient immediate smoothing effects to keratin fibers. Thus, keratin fibers treated with the present invention can exhibit less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of the keratin fiber curls. The smoothing effects imparted by the present invention can last a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can also impart a shape to keratin fibers with good shampoo resistance.

[0056] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional smoothing processes, because the present invention does not require the use of reducing / oxidizing agents. Consequently, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage. Furthermore, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be more resistant than those treated by conventional smoothing processes.

[0057] Furthermore, the present invention may use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and consequently, the odor during the use of the present invention may be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention may offer ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0058] We will describe the present invention in detail below.

[0059] [Procedure]

[0060] The present invention relates to a method for smoothing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps:

[0061] (i) application of a composition on keratinous fibers;

[0062] (ii) possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and

[0063] (iii) smoothing of keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C,

[0064] in which

[0065] the composition includes

[0066] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0067] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0068] (c) water.

[0069] Details of the composition used in the process according to the present invention will be explained in the section entitled [Composition] below.

[0070] The process according to the present invention is intended for smoothing keratin fibers, such as hair, preferably for long-term smoothing and, more preferably, for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent smoothing process.

[0071] It is preferable to clean the keratin fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (i).

[0072] In step (i), the composition, which will be described later, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0073] The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0074] It may be possible, after application of the composition, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratin fibers.

[0075] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may include an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0076] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed to remove the keratin fiber composition. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers not be dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer.

[0077] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

[0078] In step (iii), the keratin fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to straightening at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C, and more preferably more than 150 °C, with a heating element, preferably a heated iron. This temperature may be less than 250 °C, preferably less than 240 °C, and more preferably less than 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and more preferably more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0079] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0080] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0081] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0082] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0083] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0084] [Composition]

[0085] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention, or the composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, according to the present invention, comprises:

[0086] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0087] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0088] (c) water.

[0089] It is preferable that the above composition be a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for smoothing keratin fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for smoothing keratin fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers be hair.

[0090] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

[0091] The composition used for the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Only one type of compound (a) may be used, but two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.

[0093] Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

[0094] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include, for instance, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0095] Examples of glyoxylic acid salts include, for instance, metal salts alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0096] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl esters of glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0097] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0098] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).

[0099] The amount of compound(s) (a) in the composition used for the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Furthermore, the quantity of the compound(s) (a) in the composition used for the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The quantity of monovalent alcohol or alcohols in the composition used for the present invention can be from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] (Betaine compound)

[0103] The composition used for the present invention includes (b) at least one betaine compound. Only one type of betaine compound (b) may be used, but two or more different types of betaine compounds (b) may be used in combination.

[0104] The expression "betaine compound" herein denotes an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic fraction and a negatively charged anionic fraction, in which no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic fraction and the positively charged cationic fraction may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic fraction.

[0105] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound (b) here is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part.

[0106] The positively charged cationic fraction in the betaine compound (b) includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine compound (b) includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic fraction.

[0107] The negatively charged anionic fraction in the betaine (b) compound comprises, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

[0108] The compound betaine (b) can be selected from the group consisting of trime- thylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be trimethylglycine.

[0109] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition used for the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition used for the present invention to be 0.2% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Furthermore, the amount of the betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition used for the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition used for the present invention to be 3% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] The amount of betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition used for the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition used for the present invention to be from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] (Water)

[0113] The composition used for the present invention includes water (c).

[0114] Thus, the composition used for the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0115] The quantity of water (c) in the composition used for the present invention is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Furthermore, the quantity of water (c) in the composition used for the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The amount of water (c) in the composition used for the present invention can be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] (Ketonic acid)

[0119] The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers used for the present invention may include at least one compound (d), different from compound (a), selected from ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Two compounds (d) or more can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of compound (d) or a combination of different types of compounds (d) can be used.

[0120] Ketone acids can be selected from α-ketone acids, γ-ketone acids, γ-ketone acids and mixtures thereof.

[0121] α-Aketone acids can be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

[0122] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0123] in which

[0124] R1 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0125] Examples of α-keto acid include pyruvic acid.

[0126] [3-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0127] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0128] in which

[0129] R2 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0130] R3 designates a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0131] Examples of [3-keto acid include acetoacetic acid.

[0132] γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0133] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0134] in which

[0135] R2 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0136] R4 designates an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0137] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

[0138] Ketone acid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketone acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketone acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketone acid.

[0139] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (d), y-keto acid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

[0140] The quantity of compound(s) (d) in the composition used for the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the com- position.

[0141] Furthermore, the quantity of compound(s) (d) in the composition used for the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The quantity of compound(s) (d) in the composition used for the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] (pH)

[0144] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0145] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0146] The composition used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0147] (Alkaline agent)

[0148] The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, used for the present invention, may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0149] The alkaline agent is different from the betaine (b) compound.

[0150] It is preferable that the composition used for the present invention include one or more alkaline agent(s), if compound (a) can be used to reduce the pH of the composition.

[0151] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0152] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable as inorganic alkali metals.

[0153] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0154] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono- , di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C4. In particular, the alkanolamines can be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0155] The diamines can be described in the structure (B) below: FC R. <B) NW-N / S Rd

[0156] in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a Ci-C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0157] The amount of the alkali agent(s) in the composition used for the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition used for the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] (Acid)

[0161] The composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, used for the present invention, may comprise at least one acid that is different from compound (a) or betaine compound (b). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0162] The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition used for the present invention.

[0163] It is preferable that the composition used for the present invention include one or more acid(s), if compound (a) can be used to increase the pH of the composition.

[0164] As an acid, one can mention all inorganic or organic acids, of Inorganic acids, which are commonly used in cosmetic products, are preferred, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.

[0165] The amount of acid or acids in the composition used for the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, even better, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Furthermore, the quantity of the acid or acids in the composition used for the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] The acid or acids may be used in a total quantity of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] (Other optional ingredients)

[0169] The composition used for the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, selected in particular from: oils, preferably polar oils, and more preferably ester oils, in the form of a liquid at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure; solid fatty substances, and in particular C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids and C8-C40 alcohols, at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

[0170] The composition used for the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.

[0171] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the ingredient or ingredients fa The optional ingredient(s) listed above may be present in normal quantities that can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

[0172] (Ammonia and thiol compound)

[0173] Preferably, the composition used for the present invention should be free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition used for the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition used for the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0174] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the use of the composition used for the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0175] The compound thiol here refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0176] The thiol compound can be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent can be chosen in the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its Ci-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine ​​and cysteine ​​alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives, as well as its salts.

[0177] Examples of the above-mentioned salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.

[0178] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthein; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448.

[0179] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

[0180] The composition used for the present invention may include a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition used for the present invention include a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably be free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0181] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition used for the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition used for the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0182] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0183] The non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0184] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0185] (Form)

[0186] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, alcoholic-aqueous, or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of type O / W, W / O or multiple (if the composition for the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of type cream (O / W) or (W / O); an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0187] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, and the like.

[0188] [Kit]

[0189] The present invention also relates to a kit for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0190] at least one heating element capable of supplying the keratinous fibers with a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably, more than 150 °C; and

[0191] at least one composition comprising

[0192] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;

[0193] (b) at least one betaine compound; and

[0194] (c) water.

[0195] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C. This temperature may be less than 250 °C, preferably less than 240 °C and more preferably less than 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and more preferably more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0196] It is preferable that the heating element be a heating iron, as explained in the [Procedure] section above.

[0197] The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Compound (d) may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

[0198] The above explanations concerning compound (a), betaine compound (b) and water (c), as well as compound (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for the kit according to the present invention.

[0199] [Usage]

[0200] The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one betaine compound in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising:

[0201] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and

[0202] (c) water

[0203] in order to prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of keratinous fibers, or to prevent or reduce the waviness of keratinous fibers.

[0204] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0205] The use of at least one betaine compound (b) may lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers provided by compound (a).

[0206] The above composition may further comprise (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Compound (d) may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

[0207] The above explanations concerning compound (a), betaine compound (b) and water (c), as well as compound (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention.

[0208] [Additional invention]

[0209] An objective of the present invention can also be achieved by a process for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

[0210] (i) application of a composition on keratinous fibers;

[0211] (ii) possible rinsing of the keratinous fibers, with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and

[0212] (iii) smoothing of keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C,

[0213] in which

[0214] the composition includes

[0215] (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof in an amount exceeding 5% by weight, preferably exceeding 6% by weight, and more preferably exceeding 7% in weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0216] (c) water; and

[0217] (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting in ketonic acids (in particular, levulinic acid), salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] The above explanations concerning compound (a), water (c) and compound (d) for the composition used for the process according to the present invention can be applied to those of the above composition used for the above process.

[0219] The above composition need not necessarily include (b) at least one betaine compound.

[0220] The above process may also have the following effects: (1) keratin fibers treated with the above process may feel soft, moisturized, and supple; (2) keratin fibers treated with the above process are easy to manage; (3) the above process may prevent keratin fibers from returning to their original pre-process shape even after shampooing; and / or (4) keratin fibers treated with the above process may retain the provided straight shape better even under humid conditions. EXAMPLES

[0221] We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-5

[0222] [Preparations]

[0223] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 5 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0224] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. comp. 1 Comp.ex.2 Comp.ex. 3 Comp.ex.4 Comp.ex. 5 Hydroxyethylcell ulose 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight) 2 6 6 6 6 10 - - 2 6 10 Trimethylglycine 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 0.5 - 0.5 - - - 0.5M HCl aq. - - - - - - qs pH 3 qs pH 3 - - - Potassium hydroxide qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 - - qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Smoothing effects (T0) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Surface (T0) 4965 5194 5225 4726 5858 5302 5406 5493 5156 5131 5119 Smoothing effects (Tlsh) 3 4 4 4 3 4 1 1 2 2 2 Area (Tlsh) 6279 5692 5575 5630 5670 5696 7114 7539 6896 7161 7108

[0225] [Evaluations]

[0226] Each of the above compositions was used to smooth a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated according to the following protocols. 1. A strand of natural, slightly wavy, black Chinese hair, 27 cm in length, was shampooed with an SLS shampoo composition indicated in Table 2 below. The strand of hair was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0227] [Tables2] % by weight Hexylene glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Water qs 100 Coco-Betaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate (70% by weight) 15 Salicylic acid 0.2 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 1. Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 5 was applied in a quantity of 2 g to the wet hair strand. 2. The strand of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. The lock of hair was rinsed thoroughly under tap water. 4. The hair strand was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until dry. 5. The strand of hair was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The level of smoothness of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.

[0228] 5: Very good

[0229] 4: Good

[0230] 3: Correct

[0231] 2: Bad

[0232] 1: Very bad

[0233] The results are shown in the line "Smoothing effects (T0)" of Table 1.

[0234] 8) A photo was taken of the lock of hair just after step 6, and we determined the surface area (expressed by the number of pixels) of the hair strand using a free software in the public domain, Image J. The results are presented in the line "Surface (T0)" of table 1.

[0235] 9) The hair strand was shampooed again with the composition of using the SLS shampoo indicated in Table 2, it was rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hairdryer (for about 90 seconds until dry).

[0236] 10) The level of smoothing and the surface area of ​​the hair strand were reassessed as above (Tlsh). The results are presented in the "Smoothing Effects (Tlsh)" and "Surface (Tlsh)" rows of Table 1.

[0237] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of a combination of glyoxylic acid and a betaine compound can better maintain the straight shape of the hair or reduce the increase in hair volume, which reflects hair straightening or waving, than the use of glyoxylic acid alone.

[0238] In particular, it should be noted that the use of glyoxylic acid can straighten hair, and that the use of a betaine compound in combination with glyoxylic acid can prevent or reduce hair straightening or waving. In other words, a betaine compound can further help maintain the straight shape of the hair provided by the glyoxylic acid, and can prevent the hair from waving or reverting to its original shape, if its original shape is wavy. Example 7 and Comparative Example 6

[0239] [Preparations]

[0240] Each of the compositions was prepared according to Example 7 and Comparative Example 6 by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 3. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0241] [Tables3] Ex. 7 Ex. comp. 6 Isopropyl Myristate 10 10 Glycerin 4 4 Cetearyl Alcohol 4 4 Surfactants 3.5 3.5 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Glyoxylic Acid (50% by weight) 10 10 Levulinic Acid (and) Sodium Levulinate (60% by weight) 5 5 Trimethylglycine 1 - Potassium Hydroxide q.s. pH 3 q.s. pH 3 Ethanol 3 3 Perfume 0.2 0.2 Smoothing Effects (T0) 5 5 Surface (T0) 5453 5546 Smoothing Effects (Tlsh) 4 3 Surface (Tlsh) 7657 8635

[0242] [Evaluations]

[0243] The above composition was used to smooth a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated according to the following protocols. 1. A strand of natural, slightly wavy, black Chinese hair, 27 cm in length, was shampooed with an SLS shampoo composition indicated in Table 2 above. The strand of hair was rinsed thoroughly with tap water. 2. Each of the compositions according to example 7 and comparative example 6 was applied in a quantity of 1 g to the wet strand of hair. 3. The strand of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 4. The lock of hair was rinsed thoroughly under tap water. 5. The hair strand was dried with a hairdryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until this that it be dry. 6. The strand of hair was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass. 7. The level of smoothness of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.

[0244] 5: Very good

[0245] 4: Good

[0246] 3: Correct

[0247] 2: Bad

[0248] 1: Very bad

[0249] The results are shown in the line “Smoothing effects (T0)” of Table 3.

[0250] 8) A photograph of the hair strand was taken immediately after step 6, and it was determined the surface (expressed by the number of pixels) of the hair strand using a free software in the public domain, Image J. The results are presented in the line "Surface (T0)" of table 3.

[0251] 9) The hair strand was shampooed again with the composition of using the SLS shampoo indicated in Table 2, it was rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hairdryer (for about 90 seconds until dry).

[0252] 10) The level of smoothing and the surface area of ​​the hair strand were reassessed as above (Tlsh). The results are presented in the "Smoothing Effects (Tlsh)" and "Surface (Tlsh)" rows of Table 3.

[0253] The evaluation results in Table 3 also show that a combination of glyoxylic acid and a betaine compound can better maintain the straight shape of hair or reduce the increase in hair volume, which reflects hair straightening or waving, than the use of glyoxylic acid alone.

[0254] Thus, it is clear that the present invention can function not only in a relatively simple aqueous solution (examples 1-6) but also in an emulsion-type formulation (example 7) which can be close to a commercial hair conditioner.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for straightening keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition to the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and (iii) straightening the keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50 °C, preferably more than 100 °C and more preferably more than 150 °C, wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof; (c) water;and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.;

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the composition is applied to moist keratinous fibers.

3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the betaine compound(s) (b) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the compound (d) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

6. Composition for smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, with heat, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound selected from the group consisting of tri-methylglycine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

7. Kit for smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, including: at least one heating element, preferably a heating iron, capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature of over 50°C, preferably over 100°C, and more preferably over 150°C; and at least one composition comprising (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one betaine compound selected from the group consisting of tri-methylglycine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

8. Use of (b) at least one betaine compound selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, in a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, with heating, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketone acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in order to prolong the smoothing effects for keratin fibers through composition, in particular to better maintain the straight shape of keratin fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of keratin fibers.