Composition comprising at least one vinyl silicone, at least one mercapto silicone and at least one liquid fat

A composition of non-acrylate silicones with vinyl groups and mercapto silicones, combined with liquid fats, addresses the issue of fading cosmetic benefits in hair care products by providing sustained detangling and softness.

FR3146278B1Active Publication Date: 2026-02-20LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023001992
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-03-03
Publication Date
2026-02-20
Estimated Expiration
2043-03-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair care compositions fail to provide durable cosmetic benefits such as detangling and softness, as these benefits often fade with washing.

Method used

A composition comprising non-acrylate silicones with vinyl groups, mercapto silicones, and liquid fats, which are applied to keratin fibers to enhance and sustain detangling and softness.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides improved and lasting cosmetic properties to keratin fibers, including enhanced detangling and softness, even after multiple shampoos.

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Abstract

Composition comprising at least one vinyl silicone, at least one mercapto silicone, and at least one liquid fat. The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more silicones including at least one mercapto group, one or more silicones including one or more mercapto groups, and one or more liquid fats. The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers with said composition, as well as the use of the composition for conditioning keratin fibers.
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one vinyl silicone, at least one mercapto silicone and at least one liquid fatty substance

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising at least one vinyl group, one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups and one or more liquid fats.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers in which said fibers are treated with one or more compositions comprising one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising at least one vinyl group and one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups and one or more liquid fats.

[0003] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and / or straightening.

[0004] Hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can eventually become dry, rough, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0005] Thus, to remedy these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care products that employ compositions designed to condition the hair properly, providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, including smoothing, shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel, and good detangling properties. These compositions are therefore intended to protect, repair, and cosmetically transform the hair.

[0006] These hair care compositions, intended to be applied regularly to the hair, may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions and more or less thick care creams.

[0007] However, such compositions still too often lead to effects that are not sufficiently durable and that fade, in particular, with washing.

[0008] There is therefore a real need to implement on keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, compositions that do not present the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say, that are capable of conditioning keratin fibers in a durable manner, in particular by giving them lasting cosmetic properties in shampoos. This goal is achieved by the present invention which relates in particular to a composition comprising (i) one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising at least one vinyl group, b) one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups, c) one or more liquid fats.

[0009] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to condition the keratin fibers satisfactorily, in particular by improving detangling and softness to the touch, and this in a durable manner.

[0010] Thus the composition according to the invention makes it possible to give the keratin fibers satisfactory and lasting cosmetic properties to shampoos.

[0011] In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to give improved detangling and softness to the touch, including after five shampoos, compared to a composition comprising the combination of an acrylate functionalized silicone and a silicone functionalized by one or more mercapto groups.

[0012] As a result, keratin fibers can be protected, repaired and cosmetically transformed in a sustainable way.

[0013] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which said fibers are treated with one or more compositions containing, taken together or separately in said composition(s), the following ingredients: - one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising one or more vinyl groups, - one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups, - one or more liquid fats.

[0014] The process therefore makes it possible to condition keratin fibers in a satisfactory and durable manner.

[0015] Another object of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0016] The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising at least one vinyl group and a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups, at least one of the two compositions comprising one or more liquid fats.

[0017] Other features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent at the read the description and examples that follow.

[0018] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; The expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be substituted for it, and implies that the boundaries are included; For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" means human keratin fibers, and more specifically hair.

[0019] By "non-acrylate silicone" according to the present invention, silicones which do not include an acrylate or methacrylate function are designated.

[0020] Non-acrylate silicones comprising at least one vinyl group may be designated by the term vinyl silicones or vinyl silicones.

[0021] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises (i) one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising at least one vinyl group, this vinyl function being able to be represented by CH2=CH- R, R being a divalent radical optionally linking the reactive vinyl function to the polymer skeleton.

[0022] In all that follows, the term silicone, in accordance with general understanding, refers to all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, which can be obtained in particular by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and which are essentially composed of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, particularly the C1-C10 group, and in particular methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals whose alkyl portion is C1-C10, and aryl radicals, and in particular phenyl radicals.

[0023] The non-acrylate silicone(s) comprising at least one vinyl group include a polysiloxane portion comprising one or more non-(meth)acrylate vinyl reactive groups;

[0024] Thus the portion consisting of a non-siliconized organic chain comprising one or more reactive vinyl groups is grafted onto the main chain of the polymer which is constituted by the polysiloxane portion.

[0025] Preferably, the vinyl functionalized silicone(s) is or are chosen from vinyl silicone homopolymers and vinyl silicone copolymers.

[0026] More preferably, the non-acrylate silicone(s) is / are chosen from copolymers comprising, in their structure, at least one siloxane motif having a vinyl function and at least one dimethylsiloxane and / or diphenyl- motif siloxane and / or methylphenylsiloxane.

[0027] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone vinyl polymer(s) is or are of the following formula(s): (I), (II) or (II')

[0028] in which:

[0029] Ra identical or different, designate a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom chosen from N, O, S, P.

[0030] Radesigne, preferably, a divalent alkylene group in CrCl₂, preferably in Cl-Cl₂, better still a propylene group,

[0031] Rb, identical or different, designates a group selected from an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms and / or a phenyl group.

[0032] Rb, identical or different, preferably designates a methyl group or a methoxy group, preferably methyl

[0033] t varies from 0 to 140, preferably from 10 to 120,

[0034] uvaries from 1 to 140, preferably from 10 to 120

[0035] v varies from 1 to 140, preferably from 1 to 20,

[0036] X represents a vinyl group.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, X, X, identical or different, represent a vinyl group (R'a)C(R')=CH2 with R'a corresponding to an alkylene group in C1-C20, preferably in C1-C5, and R' represents an alkylene group in CrC1o. Preferably X and X are identical.

[0038] Even more preferably, the vinyl functionalized silicone(s) not having an acrylate group are chosen from among the dimethyl / diphenylsiloxane copolymers having a vinyl group at each end in particular that sold under the trade name PDV 0325 by the company Gelest, the vinylphenylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane copolymers terminated at each end by a vinylphenylmethylsiloxane group in particular that sold under the trade name PVV 3522 by the company Gelest.

[0039] The vinyl silicone(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 10% by weight, most preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises (ii) one or more silicones selected from silicones functionalized by one or more mercapto groups.

[0041] A mercapto or thiol group is an -SH group. The two terms will be used interchangeably.

[0042] The thiol-containing silicones of the invention may be silicones with one or more terminal thiol groups and / or one or more pendant thiol groups, i.e., those borne by atoms not located at the ends of the silicone chain. The thiol groups may be borne by carbon or silicon atoms. They are preferably borne by carbon atoms. Even more preferably, they are borne by a carbon atom belonging to an alkyl chain, preferably comprising two or three carbon atoms, said alkyl chains being borne by siloxane groups, and in particular alkyl siloxane groups, notably methylsiloxane. The thiol-containing silicones of the invention may have in their structure siloxane groups not substituted by thiol groups or by groups bearing thiol functionalities. The thiol group silicones of the invention may have alkyl ends, in particular methyl or hydroxyl.

[0043] In a first embodiment, the silicone(s) functionalized by one or more mercapto groups according to the invention can be chosen from the compounds of the following formulas: If R, R2 (IV)

[0044] in which:

[0045] Ri designates a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom chosen from N, O, S, P.

[0046] Preferably designates an alkylene group in the form C1-C10, better still a group in the form C1-C10, preferably a propylene group,

[0047] R2, identical or different, designates an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0048] R2 designates, preferably, a methyl group or a methoxy group, more particularly methyl.

[0049] n varies from 0 to 140, preferably from 20 to 120,

[0050] nivarie from 1 to 140, 1 to 20

[0051] m varies from 1 to 140, preferably from 20 to 120

[0052] In a first sub-variant, the mercapto functionalized silicone(s) used in the present invention is or are selected from silicones of formula (III).

[0053] In a second sub-variant, the silicone functionalized with one or more mercapto groups has a formula (IV) in which the mercapto functions are pendant. According to a particular embodiment, the R group in formula IV is an alkylene group C3H6 and the R2 group is a methyl radical.

[0054] In a second embodiment, the silicone(s) functionalized with one or more mercapto groups according to the invention may be chosen from among the homopolymers of mercaptoalkyl(Cl-ClO)alkyl(Cl-C6)siloxane. Examples include homopolymers of (MERCAPTOPROPYL)METHYLSILOXANE HOMOPOLYMER such as the product offered under the trade name SMS 992 by GELEST IN-CORPORATED.

[0055] As examples of mercapto functionalized silicones used in the present invention, we can mention mercaptopolysiloxane, in which the mercapto functions are located at the ends of the chain, marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the reference X-22-167B and mercaptopolysiloxane, in which the mercapto functions are pendant, marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF-2001.

[0056] The silicone(s) functionalized by a mercapto group may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content that may preferably range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of silicones with thiol groups relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] The functionalized silicone(s) can be introduced into the composition(s) either in pure form, or in the presence of one or more silicone or hydrocarbon solvents, or in latex form.

[0058] In a preferred version the weight ratio of mercapto silicones / vinyl silicones varies from 0.2 to 5, particularly from 0.5 to 1.5, more particularly from 0.8 to 1.2 and better is close to 1 even better equal to 1.

[0059] Liquid fats The composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats.

[0060] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0061] The fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0062] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0063] The useful fats according to the invention are liquid fats (or oils). Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point Melting points can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0065] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention can be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0066] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0067] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0068] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils (or non-siliconized oils) of animal origin.

[0070] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL. Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; no-nafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0072] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol will be used.

[0073] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0074] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0075] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0077] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26-

[0078] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acid sugars, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.

[0080] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0081] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0082] Esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0083] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0084] More specifically, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0086] The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 at 1 m2 / s.

[0087] Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0088] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

[0089] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0090] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed notably under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE. We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name "SH 200 » by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

[0091] Volatile polydialkyl-siloxanes are preferably used as liquid silicone fats. Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from:

[0092] a) hydrocarbons composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, including

[0093] - linear or branched C6-Ci6 alkanes, possibly cyclic. As Examples include undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

[0094] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the ParléamO brand by NOF Corporation, squalane,

[0095] b) volatile silicones

[0096] Even more preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from among isoparaffins and volatile silicones.

[0097] Isoparaffin in the context of the present invention means a branched alkane comprising at least 7 carbon atoms.

[0098] Isoparaffins can be chosen from isooctane, isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane. The isoparaffins of the invention can also be chosen from mixtures of compounds and in particular from products having the following references from the Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI names): C7-8 Isoparaffin C8-9 Isoparaffin C9-11 Isoparaffin C9-12 Isoparaffin C9-13 Iso-paraffin C9-14 Isoparaffin C9-16 Isoparaffin C10-11 Isoparaffin C10-12 Isoparaffin Cl0-13 Isoparaffin Cl 1-12 Isoparaffin Cl 1-13 Isoparaffin Cl 1-14 Isoparaffin Cl2-14 Isoparaffin C12-15 Isoparaffin C12-20 Isoparaffin C13-14 Isoparaffin C13-16 Isoparaffin C14-16 Isoparaffin C15-19 Isoparaffin C18-24 Isoparaffin C18-50 Isoparaffin Cl8-70 Isoparaffin C20-40 Isoparaffin Preferably the isoparaffins of the invention comprise from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, better from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0099] Most preferably isoparaffin is isododecane.

[0100] Preferably, the vapor pressure of the volatile silicones of the invention at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure varies from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, or better, from 13 Pa to 12,000 Pa. Preferably, the kinematic viscosity of the volatile silicones of the invention is less than or equal to 5 10-6 m2 / s ( 5cSt) at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The volatile silicones of the invention are preferably linear and even more preferably comprise from 2 to 9 silicon atoms.

[0101] The total content of one or more liquid fats varies preferably from 0.1 to 99.5% by weight, better from 10 to 99% by weight, even better from 25 to 98% by weight, most preferably from 50 to 98%, and even more preferably from 75 to 98%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] The composition according to the invention may include water and / or organic solvents other than liquid fats.

[0103] The compositions are preferably anhydrous, i.e. comprising less than 5% water at ambient temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa)

[0104] As an organic solvent, examples include alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, glycerol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

[0105] The compositions of the invention may further contain one or more conditioning agents other than the preceding compounds such as silicones other than vinyl silicones and thiol silicones, mineral or vegetable oils, vegetable waxes, solid fats, cationic or amphoteric surfactants and cationic or amphoteric polymers.

[0106] The additional use of amino silicones may in particular be envisaged. Cosmetic compositions may also contain one or more other compounds selected from non-ionic or anionic surfactants, silicones other than thiol silicones and non-acrylate vinyl silicones, reducing agents and in particular thiols other than thiol silicones, oxidizing agents and in particular hydrogen peroxide or persalts such as persulfates, coloring agents such as pigments, direct colorants or oxidation colorants, conditioning polymers, non-durable shaping agents such as styling polymers, preferably anionic or non-ionic, thickening agents, fillers, alkali or acidic agents, photoinitiators and mixtures thereof

[0107] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more amino silicones.

[0108] The composition used according to the invention can independently be presented in the form of a lotion, gel, foam, cream or paste.

[0109] Preferably the compositions of the invention have a dynamic viscosity of less than 500 cps at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atrno-spherical pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).

[0110] The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for the conditioning of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0111] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, in which said fibers are treated with one or more compositions containing, taken together or separately in said composition(s), the following ingredients: - one or more non-acrylate vinyl silicones, - one or more mercapto silicones, - one or more liquid fats

[0112] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of applying to said fibers a composition comprising one or more vinyl silicones and one or more mercapto silicones and one or more liquid fats.

[0113] Alternatively, the process according to the invention comprises (a) an application step on said fibers of a composition comprising one or more non-acrylate vinyl silicones and (b) an application step on said fibers of a composition comprising one or more mercapto silicones, at least one of the two compositions comprising one or more liquid fats.

[0114] According to this alternative, step (a) can be implemented before step (b) or vice versa.

[0115] The exposure time of the composition or each of the compositions defined above may be between 30 seconds and 1 hour, preferably from 1 to 30 minutes and better from 2 to 15 minutes.

[0116] The treatment process according to the invention may or may not be rinsed.

[0117] The keratin fibers can be heated during the process according to the invention to at least a temperature ranging from 40°C to 210°C.

[0118] Preferably, the keratin fibers are heated after the application of the vinyl silicone(s) and the mercapto silicone(s).

[0119] According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises:

[0120] (a) an application step on said fibers of a composition comprising one or several non-acrylate vinyl silicones, and

[0121] (b) an application step on said fibers of a composition comprising one or several silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups

[0122] at least one of the compositions of steps (a) and (b) comprising one or more liquid fats and

[0123] (c) at least one heating step of the keratin fibers to a temperature of from 40°C to 210°C implementation after steps (a) and (b).

[0124] According to this embodiment, the process according to the invention may comprise two heating steps of the keratin fibers.

[0125] According to one embodiment, the process includes a step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 40°C to 80°C and a step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 100°C to 210°C, preferably from 120 to 180°C by means of a heat source.

[0126] In practice, this operation can be carried out using a hair dryer, a hair dryer, a round or flat iron, an infrared ray dispenser and other heating devices.

[0127] Preferably, the heat source ranging from 100°C to 210°C is a hair straightener.

[0128] The process according to the invention may include a photochemical treatment step keratin fibers as a substitute or complement to the heating step as described previously.

[0129] Preferably, the photochemical treatment step is carried out in the presence of one or more photoinitiators in an amount preferably ranging from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the non-acrylate vinyl silicone.

[0130] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition or compositions of the invention comprise one or more photoinitiators.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the photoinitiator(s) are chosen from the following compounds:

[0132] [Tables 1] Désignation CAS n° Benzophenone 0000119-61-9 Benzophenone, 2-methyl- 0000131-58-8 Benzophenone, 4-methyl- 0000134-84-9 Benzoic acid, 2-benzoyl-, methyl ester 0000606-28-0 Benzophenone, 3-methyl- 0000643-65-2 2-Isopropyl thioxanthone 0005495-84-1 Benzoic acid, 4-(dimethylamino)-, ethyl ester 0010287-53-3 Benzoic acid, p-(dimethylamino)-, 2-ethylhexyl ester 0021245-02-3 Poly(ethylene glycol) bis(p-dimethylaminobenzoate) 0071512-90-8 Phosphine oxide, diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)- 0075980-60-8 4-Isopropyl thioxanthone 0083846-86-0 1 - [4-(2-Hydroxyethoxy )phenyl] -2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1 -pr opane-l-one 0106797-53-9 1-Butanone, 2-(dimethylamino)-l-[4-(4-morpholinyl)phenyl]-2-(phen ylmethyl)- 0119313-12-1 1-Butanone, 2-(dimethylamino)-2-[(4-methylphenyl)methyl]-l-[4-(4-morpholinyl)phenyl] - 0119344-86-4 Phenyl bis(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide 0162881-26-7 Benzene, (1-methylethenyl)-, homopolymer, ar-(2-hydroxy-2-methyl- 1-oxopropyl) derivs.0163702-01-0 Oxy-phenyl-acetic acid 2- [2-oxo-2-phenyl-acetoxy-ethoxy] -ethyl ester 0211510-16-6 Oxy-phenyl-acetic 2-[2-hydroxy-ethoxy]-ethyl ester 0442536-99-4 Poly[oxy(methyl-12-ethandiyl)],alpha-[4-(di-methylamin o)benzoyl-omega-butoxy 0223463-45-4 l-(4-[(4-Benzoylphenyl)thio]phenyl)-2-methyl-2-[(4-met hylphenyl)sulfonyl] -1 -propan-1 -one 0272460-97-6 2-Hydroxy-l-(4-(4-(2-hydroxy-2-methylpropionyl)benzyl 0474510-57-1 . )phenyl-2-methyl-2-propanone Di-ester of carboxymethoxy benzophenone and polytetra-methyleneglycol 250 0515136-48-8 Di-ester of carboxymethoxy-benzophenone and poly-ethylene glycol 200 0515136-49-9 Poly(oxy-1,4-butanediyl), .alpha. - [2- [(9-oxo-9H-thioxanthenyl)oxy ] acetyl] - .oméga.- [[2-[(9-oxo-9H-thioxanthenyl)oxy]acetyl]oxy]- 0813452-37-8 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl-(2-hydroxy-2-propyl)cétone 0106797-53-9 (Methylamino)diethane-2,1 -diylbis(4-dimethylamino amino benzoate) Anthraquinone, 2-ethyl- 0000084-51-5 Thioxanthen-9-one, 2-chloro- 0000086-39-5 Benzophenone, 4,4'-bis(diethylamino)- 0000090-93-7 Phosphine oxide, triphenyl- 0000791-28-6 Methanone, ( 1 -hydroxycyclohexyl)phenyl- 0000947-19-3 Methanone, phenyl(2,4,6-trimethylphenyl)- 0000954-16-5 Glyoxylic acid, phenyl-, ethyl ester 0001603-79-8 4-Phenylbenzophenone 0002128-93-0 Benzoic acid, 2-(dimethylamino)ethyl ester 0002208-05-1 Acetophenone, 2,2-diethoxy- 0006175-45-7 1-Propanone, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1 -phenyl- 0007473-98-5 1,2-Propanedione, 1-phenyl-, 2-[O-(ethoxycarbonyl)oxime] 0065894-76-0 Benzoic acid, 4-(dimethylamino)-, 2-butoxyethyl ester 0067362-76-9 1-Propanone, 1 - [4-( 1,1 -dimethylethyl)phenyl] -2-hydroxy-2-methyl- 0068400-54-4 1-Propanone, 2-methyl-l-[(4-methylthio)phenyl]-2-(4-morpholinyl)- 0071868-10-5 Glyoxylic acid, phenyl-, methyl ester 0015206-55-0 2,2-Dimethoxy-2-phenylacetophenone 0024650-42-8 Methyl-2-benzoylbenzoate 0000606-28-0 , 2-Benzyl-2-(dimethylamino)-4-morpholino buty-rophenone 0119313-12-1 Ethyl-4-Dimethylaminobenzoate 0010287-53-3 2,4-Diethyl-9H-thioxanthen-9-on 0082799-44-8 9H-Thioxanthene-2-carboxylic acid, 9-oxo-, ethyl ester 0083817-60-1 Methanone, [4-[(4-methylphenyl)thio]phenyl]phenyl- 0083846-85-9 Phosphinic acid, phenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)-, ethyl ester 0084434-11-7 1 -Chloro-4-propoxy thioxanthone 0142770-42-1 Phosphine oxide, bis(2,6-dimethoxybenzoyl)(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)- (9CI) 0145052-34-2 4,4'-Bis(methylethylamino)benzophenone 0194655-98-6 Oxirane, 2-methyl-, polymer with oxirane, 2-benzoylbenzoate 1003557-16-1 {a-4-(Dimethylamino)benzoylpoly(oxyethylene) -poly [oxy ( 1 -methylethylene)] -poly (oxyethylene)} 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate 1003557-17-2 l,3-Di({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methyle thylene)]}oxy)-2,2-bis({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl) ben-zoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]} oxymethyl)propane 1003567-82-5 1,3-Di( {a- [ 1 -chloro-9-oxo-9H-thioxanthen-4-yl)oxy ] acet ylpoly [oxy ( 1 -methylethylene)]} oxy )-2,2-bis( {a- [ 1 -chloro -9-oxo-9H-thioxanthen-4-yl)oxy]acetylpoly[oxy(l-methy lethylene)]}oxymethyl)propane 1003567-83-6 1,3-Di({ - 4-(dimethylamino)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]} oxy)-2,2-bis({ -4- (dimethylamino)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]}ox ymethyl) propane 1003567-84-7 Poly(oxy-l,2-ethanediyl), a- [2-(4-chlorobenzoyl)benzoyl]-w-[[2-(4-chlorobenzoyl)be nzoyl]oxy]- 1007306-69-5 2-Propenoic acid, 1,1'- [9- [ [( 1 -fluoro-9-oxo-9H-thioxanthen-4-yl)oxy ] methy 1253390-33-8 , 1] -7,12-dimethy 1- 3,6,8,11,13,16-hexaoxaoctadecane-1,18-diyl] ester 2,3-Dihydroxy-6-(2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1 -oxopropyl)-1,1, 3-trimethyl-3-[4-(2-hydroxy-2-methyl-l-oxopropyl)phen yl]-lH-indene 2-Hydroxy-[4'-(2-Hydroxypropoxy) phenyl]-2-methylpropanone Polyethylene glycol (200) di([3-4[p-acetylphenyl]piperazine) propionate Polyethylene glycol (200) di([3-4[4-(2-dimethylamino-2-benzyl)butanoylphenyl]pip erazine) propionate 2-Hydroxy-4'-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-methylpropiophenon e l,3-Di({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methyle thylene)]}oxy)-2,2-bis({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl) ben-zoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]} oxymethyl)propane 1003567-82-5 l,3-Di({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methyle thylene)]}oxy)-2,2-bis({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl) ben-zoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]} oxymethyl)propane 1003567-82-5 1,3-Di({ - 4-(dimethylamino)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]} oxy)-2,2-bis({ -4- (dimethylamino)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]}ox ymethyl) propane 1003567-84-7 Bis (eta(5)-cyclopentadienyl)-bis(2,6-difluoro-3-[pyrrol-l-yl] -phenyl)titanium 0125051-32-3 lodonium, bis(4-methylphenyl)-, hexafluorophosphate(l-) 0060565-88-0 Bis(4-tert-butylphenyl) iodonium hexafluorophosphate 0061358-25-6 Sulfonium, diphenyl[(phenylthio)phenyl]-, hexafluoro-phosphate(l-) (1:1) 0068156-13-8 S ulfonium, dipheny 1 [4- (phenylthio)pheny 1] -, (OC-6-11 )-hexafluoroantimonate( 1 -) (1:1) 0071449-78-0 , lodonium, bis(4-dodecylphenyl)-, (OC-6-11 )-hexafluoroantimonate( 1 -) (1:1) 0071786-70-4 Bis(4-diphenylsulphonium)phenylsulphide-bis (hexafluoropho sphate) 0074227-35-3 Diphenyl[(phenylthio)phenyl] sulfonium hexafluoropho sphate 0075482-18-7 Triphenyl sulfonium hexafluorophosphate (mono+di)salts 0086481-78-9 Thiobis(4,l-phenylene)- S,S,S',S'-tetraphenyldisulfonium bishexafluoroantimonate 0089452-37-9 Triphenylsulfonium hexafluoropho sphate 0104558-95-4 lodonium, [4-( 1 -methylethyl)pheny 1] (4-methyIpheny 1) -, tetrakis(2,3,4,5,6-pentafluorophenyl)borate(l-) (1:1) 0178233-72-2 lodonium, (4-methylphenyl)[4-(2-methylpropyl)phenyl]-, hexafluoropho sphate( 1 - ) 0344562-80-7 9H-Thioxanthenium, 10-[ 1,1 ’biphenyl]-4-yl-2-( 1 -methylethyl)-9-oxo, hexafluoropho sphate 0591773-92-1 d,l-Camphorquinone 0010373-78-1

[0133] On peut également utiliser comme photoinitiateurs les composés suivants :

[0134] [Tableaux2] IH-Imidazole, 2-(2-chlorophenyl)-l-[2-(2-chlorophenyl)-4,5-diphe nyl-2H-imidazol-2-yl] -4,5-diphenyl- 0007189-82-4 Anthracene, 9,10-dibutoxy 0076275-14-4 Phenoxyethylacrylate 0048145-04-6 Tryptophan 000073-22-3

[0135] We can also cite as photoinitiators the dyes called "photosensitizing dyes" such as ethyl eosin, eosin Y, fluorescein, rose bengal, methylene blue, erythrosine, phloxime, thionine, riboflavin, and methylene green.

[0136] The particularly preferred photoinitiators are chosen from:

[0137] [Tables3] Désignation CAS n° Poly(ethylene glycol) bis(p-dimethylaminobenzoate) 0071512-90-8 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine oxide 0075980-60-8 1 - [4-(2-Hydroxyethoxy )phenyl] -2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1 -pr opane-l-one 0106797-53-9 1-Butanone, 2-(dimethylamino)-l-[4-(4-morpholinyl)phenyl]-2-(phen ylmethyl)- 0119313-12-1 Phenyl bis(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide 0162881-26-7 Benzene, (1-methylethenyl)-, homopolymer, ar-(2-hydroxy-2-methyl- 1-oxopropyl) derivs.0163702-01-0 2-Hydroxy-4'-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-2-methylpropiophenon e 0106797-53-9 Oxy-phenyl-acetic acid 2- [2-oxo-2-phenyl-acetoxy-ethoxy] -ethyl ester 0211510-16-6 Oxy-phenyl-acetic 2-[2-hydroxy-ethoxy]-ethyl ester 0442536-99-4 Poly[oxy(methyl-12-ethandiyl)],alpha-[4-(di-methylamin o)benzoyl-omega-butoxy 0223463-45-4 2-Hydroxy-l-(4-(4-(2-hydroxy-2-methylpropionyl)benzyl )phenyl-2-methyl-2-propanone 0474510-57-1 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl-(2-hydroxy-2-propyl)cétone 0106797-53-9 d,l-Camphorquinone 0010373-78-1 2,2-Dimethoxy-2-phenylacetophenone 0024650-42-8 1-Propanone, 1 - [4-( 1,1 -dimethylethyl)phenyl] -2-hydroxy-2-methyl- 0068400-54-4 1-Propanone, 2-methyl-l-[(4-methylthio)phenyl]-2-(4-morpholinyl)- 0071868-10-5 4,4'-Bis(methylethylamino)benzophenone 0194655-98-6 {a-4-(Dimethylamino)benzoylpoly(oxyethylene) -poly [oxy ( 1 -methylethylene)] -poly (oxyethylene)} 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate 1003557-17-2 l,3-Di({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methyle 1003567-82-5 . thylene)]}oxy)-2,2-bis({a-2-(phenylcarbonyl) ben-zoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)]} oxymethyl)propane 1,3-Di(( - 4-(dimethylamino)benzoylpoly [oxy ( 1 -methylethylene)] )o xy)-2,2-bis(( -4- (dimethylamino)benzoylpoly[oxy(l-methylethylene)])ox ymethyl) propane 1003567-84-7 Poly(oxy-l,2-ethanediyl), a- [2-(4-chlorobenzoyl)benzoyl]-w-[[2-(4-chlorobenzoyl)be nzoyl]oxy]- 1007306-69-5 2-Hydroxy-[4'-(2-Hydroxypropoxy) phenyl]-2-methylpropanone Polyethylene glycol (200) di([3-4[p-acetylphenyl]piperazine) propionate Polyethylene glycol (200) di([3-4[4-(2-dimethylamino-2-benzyl) buta-noylphenyl]piperazine) propionate

[0138] De façon préférentielle, le photoinitiateur préféré est le composé Ethyl (2, 4, 6-trimethylbenzoyl)-phenyl-phosphinate (TPO-L).

[0139] The photoinitiator(s) is preferably present in the composition, in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

[0140] The process according to the invention optionally includes a step (ii) of light irradiation of the keratin fibers consisting of exposing the keratin fibers to light radiation.

[0141] This step (ii) of light irradiation of the keratin fibers is carried out after the step of application (i) of the composition as described above.

[0142] Preferably, step (ii) of light irradiation of the keratin fibers consists of exposing the keratin fibers to artificial light radiation.

[0143] More preferably, step (ii) of light irradiation of the keratin fibers consists of exposing the keratin fibers to artificial light radiation having a wavelength between 250 and 750 nm, more preferably between 280 and 700 nm, better between 300 and 600 nm, and even better between 350 and 500 nm.

[0144] More specifically, UV-Visible radiation has a wavelength of 385 nm, 405 nm or 455 nm (± 10 nanometers).

[0145] Preferably, step (ii) of light irradiation of the keratin fibers consists of exposing the keratin fibers to artificial light radiation whose irradiance is in the range of 0.1 to 50 W / cm2 of keratin fibers; more preferably from 0.5 to 30 W / cm2; more preferably still from 1 to 10 W / cm2.

[0146] Advantageously, the irradiation step of the process according to the invention is carried out using one or more light sources, preferably one or more electroluminescent sources.

[0147] More advantageously, UV-Visible radiation is emitted by one or more electroluminescent sources composed of one or more electroluminescent elements such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) or organoelectroluminescent diodes (OLEDs).

[0148] The light-emitting source can be chosen from light-emitting diodes (LEDs) or organo-electro-light-emitting diodes (OLEDs).

[0149] In other words, the irradiation step is implemented by one or more electroluminescent sources, which makes it possible to effectively reduce the processing time of the process.

[0150] In particular, the irradiation source used in the process according to the invention is carried by a clamp as described in French patent application No. 1903781 which can be moved along a wick.

[0151] The UV-Visible radiation can be continuous or pulsed at a pulse frequency from 0.001 to 1000 Hz and preferably from 0.01 to 100 Hz.

[0152] The irradiation source can be moved along a wick one or more consecutive times.

[0153] Preferably, the irradiation step is carried out immediately after the application of the composition to the keratin fibers.

[0154] By "immediately after", we mean less than 5 minutes after the end of the application of the composition.

[0155] Preferably, the duration of exposure of the keratin fibers to light radiation is greater than or equal to 1 second, more preferably between 1 second and 45 minutes, more preferably between 2 seconds and 30 minutes, even better between 5 seconds and 15 minutes.

[0156] The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more vinyl silicones and a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups, at least one of the two compositions comprising one or more liquid fats.

[0157] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention.

[0158] EXAMPLES

[0159] Example 1

[0160] The following compositions have been prepared:

[0161] [Tables4] % by weight ABC Silicone thiol (1) 2.50% - 2.50% Vinyl terminated diphenyl-siloxane)-dimethylsiloxane copolymer 2.50% 2.50% - 2,4,6-trimethyl benzoyl diphe-nylphosphine oxide (3) 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% Amodimethicone (4) 1.88% 1.88% 1.88% Isododecane Qs 100% Qs 100% Qs 100%

[0162] (1) sold under the name KF2001 by the company SHIN ETSU (formula IV with Rl = C3H6 and R2 = CH3)

[0163] (2) sold under the name PDV-0325 by the company GELEST

[0164] (3) Speedcure TPO from LAMBSON

[0165] (4) BELSIL ADM 1370 from WACKER

[0166] Compositions A, B and C described in the table above are applied to SA20 sensitized hair strands (weight 2.7g, length 27 cm) according to the following protocol: • Wash with DOP shampoo, rinse and spin dry • Application of compositions with bath ratio: from 0.05 g of formula per gram of hair • Drying with a hairdryer • Activation with a 4W / cm² light tool at 2 cm / s at 405 nm

[0167] Evaluation of cosmetic properties of touch and detangling

[0168] After drying, comb detangling tests were carried out after immersion for 10 seconds in water, by five passes with a plastic comb.

[0169] Shampoo is applied to each strand, at a rate of 1 gram per 2.8 grams of strand, and the strands are then massaged for 10 seconds. The shampoo is left to stand for 3 minutes before being rinsed with water at a temperature of 37°C, repeating the process 10 times. The strand is then dried.

[0170] This protocol is repeated five times and a second sensory evaluation of detangling is carried out (measurement T5).

[0171] [Tables5] T 0 T 5 shampoos Detangling Smooth-dry touch Detangling Smooth-dry touch Wet Dry Wet Dry Control 0 0 0 0 0 0 A Invention Si thiol Si yi»yl 444 4—H- 4-4-4- 444" ■444 +r+ B without Si thiol 44 44 ++ 0 0 0 C sais Si viny1 44 4+ ++ 0 0 0

[0172] It was observed that composition A according to the invention led to a residual effect of detangling and smooth-to-the-touch properties after 5 shampoos.

[0173] IR spectra show the presence of silicones on strands treated with composition A after 5 shampoos, whereas there are none for strands treated with compositions B and C.

[0174] This protocol is repeated five more times and a new sensory evaluation is carried out (measurement T10).

[0175] [Tableauxô] T0 T 10 shampoos Detangling Smooth-dry touch Detangling Smooth-dry touch Wet Dry Wet Dry Control 0 0 0 0 0 0 A Invention 444 444' -=-+4- 44 44 44 B without Si thiol 44 -5-4 44 0 0 0 C without Si vinvl 4—h -5—!- 44 0 0 0

[0176] It was observed that composition A according to the invention led to a persistence of detangling and smooth-to-the-touch properties after 10 shampoos, unlike comparative compositions not containing the two silicones.

[0177] Example 2

[0178] The following compositions were prepared:

[0179] [Tables?] % by weight AB Silicone thiol (1) 2.50% 2.50% Vinyl terminated diphenyl-siloxane)-dimethylsiloxane copolymer (2) 2.50% - Silicone with acrylate terminal group (5) - 2.50% 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyldiphenyl phosphine oxide (3) 0.2% 0.2% Amodimethicone (4) 1.88% 1.88% Isododecane Qs 100% Qs 100%

[0180] (1) sold under the name KF2001 by the company SHIN ETSU (formula IV with Rl = C3H6 and R2 = CH3)

[0181] (2) sold under the name PDV-0325 by the company GELEST

[0182] (3) Speedcure TPO from LAMBSON

[0183] (4) BELSIL ADM 1370 from WACKER

[0184] (5)sold under the name X-62-7943 by the company SHIN ETSU

[0185] Compositions A and B described in the table above are applied to wicks of SA20 hair that has been sensitized and bleached according to the following protocol: - Wash with DOP shampoo, rinse and spin dry - Application of compositions with bath ratio: from 0.05 g of formula per gram of hair - Drying with a hairdryer - Activation with a light tool of 4W / cm2 at 2 cm / s at 405 nm

[0186] [Tables8] T0 T 5 shampoos Detangling s*- Smooth-dry touch Detangling Smooth-dry touch Wet Dry Dry Control 0 0 0 0 0 0 A Invention If thiol + If vinyl no; acrylate +++ 4-+4-- +++ —E-4 ■++■+ +++ B If thiol 4- If vinyl acrylate 44 4— 4 4 H- +

[0187] It was observed that composition A according to the invention led to a persistence of detangling and smooth-to-the-touch properties after 5 shampoos, unlike the comparative composition containing a silicone vinyl acrylate.

[0188] IR spectra showed the presence of silicones on the strands treated with composition A after 5 shampoos, whereas there was significantly less for the strands treated with composition B.

[0189] [Tables9] T0 T10 Shampoos Detangling Smooth-dry touch Detangling Smooth-dry touch Wet Dry Wet Dry Control 0 0 0 0 0 0 A Invention 444 +++ 444 ++ ++ 44 B Si acrylate +4 ++ 44 0 0 0

[0190] It was observed that composition A according to the invention (non-acrylate vinyl silicone) resulted in the retention of detangling and smooth-to-the-touch properties after 10 shampoos, unlike the comparative composition containing a vinyl acrylate silicone.

[0191] IR spectra showed the presence of silicones on strands treated with composition A after 5 shampoos, whereas there was significantly less for strands treated with composition B.

[0192] Example 3

[0193] The following composition has been prepared:

[0194] [TableauxlO] % by weight MA A Silicone thiol (1) 2.50% Vinyl terminated diphenyl-siloxane)-dimethylsiloxane copolymer (2) 2.50% 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine oxide (3) 0.2% BIS-CETEARYL AMODIMETHICONE (4) 1.88% Dodecamethylpentasiloxane Qs 100%

[0195] (1) sold under the name KF2001 by the company SHIN ETSU (formula IV with Rl = C3H6 and R2 = CH3)

[0196] (2) sold under the name PDV-0325 by the company GELEST

[0197] (3) Speedcure TPO from LAMBSON

[0198] (4) SILSOFT AX from MOMENTIVE

[0199] Wicks were treated with composition A according to the protocol of example 1.

[0200] [Tableauxll] T0 T 10 shampoos Detangling Smooth-dry touch IR peak Detangling Smooth-touch SGC IR peak Wet Dry Wet Dry Ref untreated No formula 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 A Invention -Ï-+ -H- ++ ++ +4- ++ '4-

[0201] It was observed that composition A according to the invention led to a residual effect of detangling and smooth-to-the-touch properties after 10 shampoos.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating keratin fibers comprising: applying to keratin fibers one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising one or more vinyl groups, one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups, and one or more liquid fats, from one or more compositions containing them, heating the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 40°C to 210°C, followed by photochemical treatment of the keratin fibers in the presence of one or more photoinitiators.

2. A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-acrylate silicones comprising one or more vinyl groups is / are of the following formulas (I), (II) or (II'): (he') in which: Ra, identical or different, designates a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom chosen from N, O, S, P. Rade denotes, preferably, an alkylene group in CrCl0o, better a propylene group. Rb, identical or different, denotes an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Rb denotes, preferably, a methyl group or a methoxy group. t varies from 0 to 140, and u varies from 1 to 140, v varies from 1 to 140, X represents a vinyl group.

3. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the non-acrylate silicones comprising one or more vinyl groups is (are) selected from dimethyl / diphenylsiloxane copolymers having a vinyl group at each end and vinylphenyl siloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane copolymers terminated at each end by a vinylphenylmethylsiloxane group.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the vinyl silicone(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging preferably from 0.1 to 30%, better from 0.5 to 20%, even better from 1 to 10%, most preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone(s) comprising one or more mercapto groups is / are selected from the compounds of the following formulas: R? “ “I r2 rrr HS—R^ Si o Si o- Si—R1—SH R, LR, JR„ 2 2 0 2 (Hh R—Si—O—Si—O II r2 Lr2 (IV) in which Ri denotes a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom chosen from N, O, S, P, R2 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, n varies from 0 to 140 and ni varies from 1 to 140, m varies from 1 to 140.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the mercapto silicone(s) may be present in the applied composition in a content ranging preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better from 1 to 10% by weight, most preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the weight ratio of mercapto silicones / vinyl silicones in the applied composition varies from 0.2 to 5, particularly from 0.5 to 1.5, more particularly from 0.8 to 1.2 and better is equal to 1.

8. ;A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the liquid fat(s) are selected from isoparaffins and volatile silicones.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total content of one or more liquid fats varies preferably from 0.1 to 99.5% by weight, better from 10 to 99% by weight, even better from 25 to 98% by weight, most preferably from 50 to 98%, and even more preferably from 75 to 98%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

10. A method according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises: (a) a step of applying to said fibers a composition comprising one or more non-acrylate silicones comprising one or more vinyl groups and (b) an application step on said fibers of a composition comprising one or more silicones comprising one or more mercapto groups, at least one of the two compositions comprising one or more liquid fats.