PECTIN-BASED FIRMING SYSTEM FOR SKINCARE AND ANTI-AGING MAKEUP

Abstract

PECTIN-BASED FIRMING SYSTEM FOR SKINCARE AND ANTI-AGING MAKEUP. A cosmetic composition includes a firming system that comprises: a pectin; at least one powder; water; at least one fatty compound; and at least one plasticizer. The firming system, when spreadable, forms a firming film upon drying, exhibiting cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate. The pectin may include weakly methoxylated pectin, and the firming system may further include at least one monosaccharide, one disaccharide, or a combination thereof.The composition may include a cosmetic carrier system in which the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a liquid or creamy emulsion or oil-free serum for application to the skin to improve signs of aging, or a liquid emulsion or viscous suspension for application as makeup to keratinous tissue selected from the skin, eyelashes, and hair to impart firmness to the keratinous tissue. Figure for the abbreviation: none.

Description

Title of the invention: PECTIN-BASED FIRMING SYSTEM FOR SKINCARE AND ANTI-AGING MAKEUP TECHNOLOGICAL FIELD

[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions that impart firming and tightening properties to substrates, in particular to skin and hair. CONTEXT

[0002] Film-forming polymer technology is widely used in makeup such as mascara, nail polish, and lipstick, as well as in hair and skin care products for substrate bonding, deposition, and retention, and for tightening efficacy. Used in applications that include anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing and filling, puffiness reduction, lifting, and tightening, film-forming polymers and technology have proven indispensable to consumers, primarily to provide short-term, immediately noticeable benefits, while relying on the use of anti-aging bioactives to achieve longer-term benefits.

[0003] Film-forming polymers in skin cosmetics, both water-based and oil-based, have long been dominated by synthetic cross-linked polymers or copolymers. Despite growing consumer expectations for natural, biodegradable, and sustainable products, natural biopolymers (e.g., polysaccharides, proteins) suffer from inherently inferior mechanical properties and have therefore not provided robust solutions for use as film-forming materials in anti-aging products.

[0004] The inventors aim to incorporate natural ingredients into film-forming applications to address what is lacking in the art. As disclosed herein, the natural film-forming technology is applicable to anti-aging skincare applications that can be beneficial for the face and other parts of a consumer's skin, and also provides a platform for use in hair care and makeup applications. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0005] This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form, which are described in greater detail below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter or to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.

[0006] In one aspect, the present disclosure proposes a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0007] a strengthening system which includes:

[0008] a pectin;

[0009] at least one powder;

[0010] of water; and

[0011] at least one plasticizer,

[0012] wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film which exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

[0013] In some embodiments, the pectin comprises weakly methoxylated pectin, and the firming system further includes at least one monosaccharide, one disaccharide or a combination thereof and preferably a polymeric thickener in accordance with the disclosure to provide a texture that is substantially improved when used in place of a metal salt such as a calcium salt.

[0014] In some embodiments, the composition may expressly include at least one metal salt. In some embodiments, the composition may expressly include one or more metal salts selected from magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0015] In certain embodiments, the composition expressly excludes metal salts. In certain embodiments, the composition expressly excludes or is essentially free from one or more metal salts selected from magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0016] In some embodiments, the weakly methoxylated pectin has a molecular weight of about 10 kDa to about 1000 kDa.

[0017] In some embodiments, the amount of pectin present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 10.0%.

[0018] In some embodiments, the one or more powders comprise one or more elements among silica or silicates or combinations thereof, which may be in the form of a dry powder before addition to the composition, or in suspension or liquid solution.

[0019] In some embodiments, the powder is in the form of silica particles, including nano or microparticles of silica, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof.

[0020] In some embodiments, at least one powder is present in the composition from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a serum or gel essentially free of oil.

[0022] In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of an emulsion and comprises at least one fatty compound.

[0023] In some embodiments, the fatty compound comprises one or more vegetable butters, the one or more vegetable butters selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter, Theobroma Cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter and combinations thereof.

[0024] In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more vegetable butters in which the total amount of vegetable butter present in the composition has a concentration of about 2% to about 9%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0025] In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more emollient oils present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 6%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0026] In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of Copemicia Cerifera (Camauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax and their combinations.

[0027] In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more waxes, where the total amount of wax is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.05% to about 5%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0028] In some embodiments, the composition includes glycerin as plasticizer.

[0029] In some embodiments, the quantity of each plasticizer is present in the composition at a concentration of about 2% to about 10%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0030] In some embodiments, the fatty compound and the plasticizer are present in a fatty compound to plasticizer ratio of approximately 1:1.

[0031] In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one metal salt selected from calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0032] In certain particular embodiments, the metal salt is calcium chloride.

[0033] In some embodiments, the quantity of at least one metal salt is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 1%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0034] In some embodiments, the water in the composition is present from about 5% to about 75%, and the composition has a pH in a range of about 4.0 to about 8.5.

[0035] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, or combinations thereof.

[0036] In certain particular embodiments, the composition includes a mixture of surfactants comprising sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate 60.

[0037] In some embodiments, the total amount of surfactant present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 20%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0038] In certain embodiments, the composition includes at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer, wherein at least one polymer has a glass transition temperature (Tg) in the range of approximately -70 °C to approximately -30 °C, wherein, for example, ethylhexyl polyacrylate has a Tg of approximately -70 °C, polyurethane (polyether polyol / MDI) has a Tg of approximately -30 °C, and silicone has a Tg of approximately -90 °C, the polymer being present in the composition at a concentration of approximately 0.4% to approximately 3%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. position.

[0039] In certain particular embodiments, the composition includes a hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

[0040] In some embodiments, the composition is supplied in liquid form, for example as a lotion or cream. In some embodiments, the composition is supplied as makeup such as a foundation or mascara.

[0041] In another aspect, the present disclosure proposes a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0042] a strengthening system which includes:

[0043] 0.5 to 10% pectin;

[0044] at least one powder comprising about 0.1 to about 10% of silica particles selected from nanoparticles and microparticles;

[0045] of water;

[0046] at least one fatty compound comprising from about 4% to about 8% vegetable butters; and

[0047] at least one plasticizer;

[0048] in which all quantities are expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0049] wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film which exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

[0050] In another aspect, the present disclosure proposes a cosmetic system, comprising:

[0051] an applicator; and

[0052] a strengthening system which includes:

[0053] of pectin;

[0054] at least one powder;

[0055] of water; and

[0056] at least one plasticizer; and

[0057] a cosmetic vector system for a cosmetic product selected from the group consisting of an anti-aging skin treatment and makeup,

[0058] wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film which exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

[0059] In some embodiments, the applicator can be chosen from a surface roller of a roller applicator, bristle surface of a brush, sprayer, pad or spatula.

[0060] In some embodiments, the composition is contained within the applicator. In some embodiments, the cosmetic system includes a container in which the composition is contained separately from the applicator.

[0061] In some embodiments, the firming system and the cosmetic vector system are in the form of a liquid or creamy emulsion or a serum for application to the skin in order to reduce the signs of aging.

[0062] In some embodiments, the firming system and the cosmetic vector system are in the form of an emulsion or viscous liquid suspension for application as makeup on keratinous tissue selected from skin, eyelashes and hair to impart firmness to the keratinous tissue.

[0063] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one fatty compound.

[0064] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description, taken together with the accompanying drawings which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

[0065] This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments according to general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not limited by the exemplary embodiments presented herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning. Brief description of the drawings

[0066] This application contains at least one color drawing. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with color drawing(s) will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fees.

[0067] The features and advantages of the general inventive concepts will become apparent from the following detailed description made with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0068] [Fig. 1] The [Fig. 1] demonstrates a postulated interaction between pectin and silica in film formation according to the disclosure.

[0069] [Fig.2] Fig.2 demonstrates a postulated molecular interaction between pectin and silica to form a hybrid organic / inorganic film network.

[0070] [Fig.3] Fig.3 demonstrates in vivo test results of film property, in accordance with one embodiment of disclosure.

[0071] [Fig.4] The [Fig.4] demonstrates additional in vitro test results of film property, in accordance with one embodiment of the disclosure.

[0072] [Fig.5] The [Fig.5] demonstrates additional in vitro film property test results, in accordance with one embodiment of the disclosure.

[0073] [Fig.6] Fig.6 demonstrates additional in vitro film property test results, in accordance with one embodiment of disclosure.

[0074] Aspects and many related advantages of the disclosed subject matter will be more readily appreciated as they are better understood by referring to the following detailed description, when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

[0075] The detailed description set forth above in relation to the accompanying drawings, where similar numbers refer to similar elements, is understood as a description of various embodiments of the disclosed subject matter and is not intended to represent the only embodiments. Each embodiment described in this disclosure is provided merely by way of example or illustration and should not be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments. The illustrative examples provided herein are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the disclosure to the exact forms disclosed. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0076] Film-forming polymers in water-based or oil-based skin cosmetics have long been dominated by synthetic cross-linked polymers or copolymers. In recent years, the industry has seen a growing demand for film-forming products containing natural substances in a more environmentally friendly and sustainable manner. The present invention involves a firming system that is a natural polysaccharide pectin, a water-soluble fiber abundant in the cell walls of fruits and vegetables, particularly citrus fruits, apples, and beets.

[0077] The inventors have developed a completely new film-forming technology based on biopolymer pectin or polysaccharide, which has demonstrated, in an exemplary skincare formulation, the immediate and lasting appearance benefits of wrinkle smoothing, puffiness reduction, and dark circle reduction thanks to the film's superb firming and lifting effect. In various embodiments, a composition is proposed that includes a firming system comprising pectin, at least one powder, at least one fatty compound, a plasticizer, and water.

[0078] According to the invention, pectin is used in combination with a powder, in certain particular examples selected from silica or silicates or combinations thereof, which may be in dry powder form before addition to the composition, or in suspension or liquid solution, including silica particles which may be on the micro- or nanoscale or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof, wherein the molecular weight and the ratio Acetylation of the chosen pectin, in some embodiments, weakly methoxylated pectin, confers good solubility in water without gelling as typically done by other polysaccharides, allowing associations between the pectin and the powder in the liquid state and allowing more cross-linking between the pectin and the powder after drying of the film.

[0079] The inventors discovered that the composition including the firming system according to the disclosure unexpectedly provides a firming film in which the interaction between the pectin and the powder, for example silica, forms hydrogen bonds that result in a film, not a gel, where the film is firm enough to tighten and firm a substrate such as skin and is pliable and resistant to cracking and flaking, as shown in [Fig. 1] and [Fig. 2]. The firming system is particularly useful for firming and tightening lines and bags on the skin and can therefore be used anywhere on the body where bags and lines or fine lines need to be reduced. Exemplary embodiments have been applied to the skin around the eyes to effectively eliminate lines or fine lines and bags almost immediately after application and for at least 7 hours.The composition, including the firming system, can be easily removed with water or a cleanser.

[0080] Additional ingredients, including glycerin, emollient oils, thickening polymers, and optionally wax, hyaluronic acid, and other active ingredients in a water-based system, as used in exemplified compositions, demonstrate superb tightening and firming performance that is instantly visible and long-lasting, providing perceived anti-aging benefits and are easily washed off. The main components, pectin polysaccharide and natural silica particles, also exhibit moisturizing and mattifying effects.

[0081] In various embodiments which include at least one fatty compound, the ratio between emollient oil and glycerin affects the cohesion and adhesion, elasticity and compliance of the film after drying on the skin and allows balanced benefits of efficacy, user comfort and durability.

[0082] Now, with reference to the exemplified embodiments which include the use of pectin with silica or silicate, for example silica particles, including silica nanoparticles or microparticles or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof, without wishing to make it a theory, the inventors postulate that the use of inorganic silica particles as a physical crosslinker, through various inter- and intramolecular interactions between the silanol (-Si-OH) groups on the silica surface and the groups Abundant carboxyl (-COOH), carboxylate (-COO), and hydroxyl (-OH) groups on the side chains of linear pectin molecules create a hybrid film network possessing both organic and inorganic attributes, contributing to the superb properties (adhesion, cohesion) of the resulting hardening film. These postulated intermolecular and intramolecular interactions, including hydrogen bonds between the linear acidic polysaccharide equipped with abundant carboxyl (-COOH), carboxylate (-COO), and hydroxyl (-OH) groups and the silanol surface functional groups (-Si-OH) on the silica particles (in the case of pectin combining with silicates, the silica particles are formed in situ via hydration and condensation processes after the silicates mix with the acidic pectin molecules), enable the formation of a strong, continuous, three-dimensional organic / inorganic network.

[0083] The composition provides the firming system, which forms a physical bond in the liquid state between the pectin and the powder, which, upon drying under ambient conditions (standard humidity, pressure, and temperature ranges of approximately 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F)), forms a hybrid film with exceptional properties. The resulting film is flexible for greater comfort and resists flaking, delamination, cracking, lifting, and bubbling.

[0084] According to the various embodiments, a composition including the firming system for the disclosure may be in a form including a suspension, lotion, cream, serum, gel, stick, spray, ointment, paste, mousse, cream, wipe, patch, or strip. The product may be a skin treatment or makeup such as, but not limited to, foundation or mascara. Composition Pectin

[0085] According to the various embodiments, the composition includes pectin. In various embodiments, the pectin may be selected from low-methoxylated pectin and high-methoxylated pectin, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the pectin is low-methoxylated pectin.

[0086] Pectin is a natural polysaccharide found in many plants, is economical, abundant, 100% natural, biodegradable and sustainable.

[0087] Highly methoxylated pectins contain more than 50% polygalacturonic acid motifs, whereas weakly methoxylated pectins generally contain less than 50% polygalacturonic acid motifs. Highly methoxylated pectins are known to gel in the presence of at least 60% sugar, in weight of the pectin and sugar combination, and at a pH of 2.6-3.4; weakly methoxylated pectins are known to require the presence of polyvalent metal ions to gel, such as calcium, magnesium and aluminum plasma at a pH of 2-7 and weakly methoxylated pectins are synergistic with locust bean gum.

[0088] In accordance with the present invention, the inventors have unexpectedly prepared compositions in which the use of pectin with a polymer, for example, pectin-SiO2, provides superior hydrogen bonds for film formation compared to the Ca++-pectin interaction.

[0089] In some embodiments, the pectin comprises weakly methoxylated pectin and sucrose. In some embodiments, the weakly methoxylated pectin has a molecular weight of approximately 10 kDa to 1000 kDa.

[0090] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of each or a combination of pectin in the composition may range from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10.0%, by weight, from approximately 1.0% to approximately 9.0%, from approximately 2.0% to approximately 8.0%, or from approximately 3.0% to approximately 7.0%, or from approximately 5.0% to approximately 6.0%, or any combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin treatment composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0091] Thus, pectin, in certain embodiments weakly methoxylated pectin, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, to about 10.0 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Powder

[0092] According to the disclosure, one or more powders are present in the composition.

[0093] As used herein, the term "powder" refers to and includes materials in the state of dry powder, and materials in liquid form in suspension or in solution, such as, but not limited to, a sodium silicate solution.

[0094] According to the invention, the powder is selected from silica or silicates or combinations thereof, which may be in dry powder form before addition to the composition, or in suspension or liquid solution, including silica particles which may be on a micro or nanoscale or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof.

[0095] In some embodiments, the one or more powders comprise one or more of the following: silica or silicates or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the powder is in the form of silica particles, y including nanoparticles or microparticles of silica or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof. In some particular embodiments, the powder is in the form of silica microparticles. In other particular embodiments, the powder is a silicate, such as sodium silicate, potassium silicate, or a combination thereof.

[0096] One or more powders may be selected from silica and silicates, for example, silica microparticles, hydrated silica, alumina silica, silica silylate, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) dimethicone, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, strontium silicate, or combinations thereof.

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, one or more powders may be selected from spherical microparticles of porous silica having an average particle size of 0.5 to 20 pm, the INCI name of which is silica, sold by the company JCG Catalysts and Chemicals under the name Spheron L-1500.

[0098] According to some embodiments, the composition excludes hydrophobic aerogel.

[0099] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (with drying) the liquid component of a silica gel by air. Useful hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to embodiments of the disclosure include silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name: silica silylate). The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation is described more fully in US Patent No. 7,470,725. In some embodiments, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups may be selected.For example, aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m² / g, or aerogel sold under the name VM-2270®, also by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m² / g, can be chosen. In certain embodiments, aerogels sold by Cabot under the names Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, and Aerogel TLD 203®, CAB-O-SIL TS-530, CAB-O-SIL TS-610, CAB-O-SIL TS-720, Enova Aerogel MT 1100®, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200®, may be selected.

[0100] At least one powder is present in the composition at a concentration of approximately 0.01% to approximately 25%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.05% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 5.0%, or from about 2% to about 4%, or about 3%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition includes more than one powder, each powder being present in such quantity as stated above, wherein each different powder may be present in any of the ranges selected from those stated above.

[0101] Thus, each of the at least one powder, or a combination thereof, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, 15.0, 16.0, 17.0, 18.0, 19.0, 20.0, 21.0, 22.0, 23.0, 24.0 to approximately 25.0 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. fatty compound

[0102] According to the disclosure, one or more fatty compounds may be present in the composition. Fatty compounds include one or more non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes and silicone oils.

[0103] In some embodiments, the composition includes one or more vegetable butters, the one or more vegetable butters selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter and combinations thereof.

[0104] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of vegetable butter present in the composition may be approximately 1%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, or from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, or from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0105] In some embodiments, at least one butter has a melting point in the range of about 30 to about 45 degrees Celsius.

[0106] Thus, any of the vegetable butters or a combination thereof may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing exfoliating cream, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to about 15% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0107] In some embodiments, the compositions include one or more emollient oils. According to the various embodiments, non-limiting examples of emollient oils include octyldodecanol, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, meadowfoam seed oil, dicaprylic carbonate, squalane, dimethicone and behenyl alcohol.

[0108] According to certain embodiments, the amount of an emollient oil present in the compositions may range from about 0.5% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 1.5%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0109] According to certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more emollient oils. Depending on the various embodiments, the combined amount of emollient oil present in the compositions may range from approximately 5% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0110] Thus, an emollient oil in the composition may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of approximately 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4, 4.8, 4.9, 5.0, 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 up to approximately 6.0 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. And in combination, emollient oils in the composition may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to approximately 20%, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0111] More generally, according to the various embodiments, the composition includes any or a combination of cosmetic oils. In some embodiments, the oil is generally immiscible in water.

[0112] The oil may be selected from silicones, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may include a polar or non-polar oil or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils derived from plants or of vegetable origin, mineral oil, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 atoms of carbon, fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and combinations thereof.

[0113] Silicone oils

[0114] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil comprising primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be an animal oil based on hydrocarbons, a vegetable oil based on hydrocarbons, a mineral oil based on hydrocarbons, or a synthetic oil based on hydrocarbons. Furthermore, a suitable oil may be a mineral oil based on hydrocarbons, a vegetable oil based on hydrocarbons, or a synthetic oil based on hydrocarbons.

[0115] The composition may include one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and steaoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the composition includes dimethicone and, optionally, additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Generally, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils.In some embodiments, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each of which groups contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0116] Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 106 m2 / s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, particular mention may be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Fluorinated oils

[0118] The composition may include one or more fluorinated oils. For example, one or more fluorinated oils may be selected from the group consisting of per- Fluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane, and 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, and dodecafluoropentane, can also be used.

[0119] Hydrocarbon-based oils

[0120] The composition may include one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polylydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: i. oils based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, these chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and oil of musk rose. ii. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; iii. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® and squalane 40; iv. synthetic esters, for example, oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is particularly branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is equal to 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stéarinerie Dubois; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear C14-C15 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates; v. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; vi. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; vii. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis; viii. fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) by Ajinomoto; and ix. essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsamic oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, oil orange,Patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, and ylang-ylang oil.

[0121] Hydrocarbon-based oils can be glyceride triesters and in particular particularly caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isonanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0122] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise one or more oils such as those described above, and oils that may be selected from a branched or linear liquid alkane with a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length from C1 to C20, or from C15 to C19, or from C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, and C19. In some embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.

[0123] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise one or more oils selected from polar emollients chosen from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polar emollients may be chosen from those having a molecular weight of 400 g / mol or less. More generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight in the range of approximately 50 g / mol% to approximately 350 g / mol.

[0124] In some embodiments, the composition may include polar emollients which include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably from C16-C22 saturated fatty acids and monohydric alcohols. In some embodiments, these esters may be selected from isopropyl myristate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyle myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0125] In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes, but is not limited to: 1) lower C6-C19 alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, non-silicone waxes and silicones; 2) hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; 3) fluorinated oils, for example perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names FLUTEC® PCI and FLUTEC® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® by 3M, or bromoper-fluorooctyl sold under the name FORALKYL® by Atochem; nona-fluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M. 4) Linear and branched alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol. In certain particular embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure includes one or more of mineral oil, hemisqualane, dimethicone, squalane, castor oil, isohexadecane and coconut oil.

[0126] In some embodiments, at least one fatty compound describes an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In some embodiments, at least one fatty compound has a water solubility of less than 5%. In some embodiments, at least one fatty compound has a water solubility of less than 1%. In some embodiments, at least one fatty compound has a water solubility of less than 0.1%. Although these fatty compounds are given by way of example, it is appreciated that other compounds compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

[0127] In some embodiments, an oil may be selected from squalane, purcelline oil (cetostearyl octanoate), hemisqualane, isononyl isonanoate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates or polyalcohol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate of 2-Ethylhexyl, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate and 2-Diethylhexyl succinate, cocoglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicapryl maleate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, avocado oil, aloe extracts, jojoba oil, castor oil, a fatty acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, a fatty alcohol, cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, dii-isopropyl adipate, the Hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C9-C15 alcohols, alkanes, mineral oil, silicone, dimethyl polysiloxane, ether, polyoxypropylene butyl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, arylalkyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and all combinations thereof.In some embodiments, an oil may be selected from isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, coco caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl adipate, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, silicone oils, synthetic and petroleum-based oils, and combinations thereof are excluded. In some embodiments, the composition excludes mineral oil, silicone oil, petroleum-based oil, or a combination thereof.

[0128] According to the various embodiments, the oil may be present from about 0.01% to about 20%. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0129] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one wax. In some particular embodiments, the at least one wax is chosen from the group consisting of Copemicia Cerifera (Camauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax and combinations thereof.

[0130] In certain embodiments, the amount of wax, when present in the composition, may be from about 0.05% to about 5%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or 0.1%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0131] According to the various embodiments, the amount of fatty compound in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 40%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about 1% to about 25%, or from about 2% to about 15%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other areas fall within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, two or more fatty compounds are present. And, in some embodiments, one or more fatty compounds are present, at least one of which is an oxidation-resistant fatty compound.

[0132] Thus, any one of the fatty compounds, or a combination thereof, if present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, to approximately 60 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges. Plasticizers

[0133] In accordance with the disclosure, one or more plasticizers are present in the composition.

[0134] Generally, plasticizers tend to modify the mechanical properties of a composition by reducing the glass transition temperature (Tg) and increasing the softness and flexibility of films. In some embodiments, suitable plasticizers have a boiling point measured at ambient pressure of 285°C or less, in some embodiments 270°C or less, and in some embodiments 250°C or less. In this specification, boiling point values ​​are to be considered accurate to within ±2°C due to measurement uncertainties of the boiling point. Useful plasticizers include glycerin, lecithin, polysorbates, dimethicone copolyol, glycols, citrate esters, dimethicone, and other similar ingredients disclosed in the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients and Handbook Vol. 4 (9th ed.).2002), in particular the plasticizers disclosed on page 2927.

[0135] In some embodiments, the composition includes glycerin as a plasticizer.

[0136] Examples of suitable plasticizers include, but are not limited to, glycols and their ester derivatives, acid esters, in particular carboxylic acids, such as citrates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates, oxyethylenated derivatives, such as oxyethylenated oils, and mixtures thereof. For example, suitable plasticizing agents include, but are not limited to, glycerin, diisobutyl adipate, teributyl acid ester of 2,2,4-trimethylpentane-1,3-diol, diethyl adipate, diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, butyl 2-ethylhexyl phthalate, dimethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate, ethyl stearate, palmitate of 2-ethylhexyl, n-butyl ether dipropylene glycol, tributyl phosphate, tributoxyethyl phosphate, tricresyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, glycerol triacetate, butyl stearate, butyl glycolate, butyl benzoate, butyl racetyltricinoleate, glyceryl racetyltricinoleate, dibutyl phthalate, diisobutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, dimethoxyethyl phthalate, diamyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetyl citrate, dibutyl tartrate, camphor, ethyl tosylamide and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of each plasticizer can range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 35%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 25%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the cleaning composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0138] Thus, each plasticizer or combination thereof is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34 to about 35% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Metal salt

[0139] In some embodiments, the composition expressly excludes metal salts. In some embodiments, the composition expressly excludes or is essentially free from one or more metal salts selected from calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0140] According to the various embodiments, the composition includes at least one metal salt. Suitable metal salts include, but are not limited to, calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0141] In certain particular embodiments, the metal salt is calcium chloride.

[0142] In accordance with the various embodiments, the quantity of at least one metal salt present in the composition may range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.02% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 0.025% to approximately 0.1%, or from approximately 0.03% to approximately 0.05%, or approximately 0.035%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the skin treatment composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0143] Thus, any one of the metal salts may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.01, 0.015, 0.02, 0.025, 0.03, 0.035, 0.04, 0.045, 0.05, 0.055, 0.06, 0.056, 0.07, 0.075, 0.08, 0.085, 0.09, 0.095, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, up to about 1.0 weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Surfactant

[0144] According to the various embodiments, the composition may include one or more surfactants.

[0145] In some embodiments, one or more surfactants are selected from non-ionic surfactants with low and high HLB. In some embodiments, one or more surfactants are sorbitol-based non-ionic surfactants.

[0146] In some embodiments, one or more surfactants are selected from sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof.

[0147] In certain particular embodiments, the composition includes a mixture of surfactants comprising sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate 60. In certain embodiments given by way of example, the composition includes a mixture of surfactants comprising sorbitan isostearate (present at -0.0275%) and polysorbate 60 (present at -0.0275%).

[0148] According to the various embodiments, the amount of surfactant present in the composition may be from approximately 0.01% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 0.4% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, or any combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0149] In some embodiments, the surfactants selected are sulfate-free. In some particular embodiments, the surfactant mixture comprises Two or more sulfate-free surfactants. The term "sulfate-free" as used here means that no sulfate has been added as a component. In some embodiments, a composition is sulfate-free. Subject matter experts will appreciate that sulfate may be present in a composition through its presence in one or more of the formulation components; thus, in some embodiments, a composition may be "essentially sulfate-free" in which sulfate is present at a concentration not exceeding 5% by weight, and in some cases is present at not more than 3% by weight, and in some cases is present at not more than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the cleaning composition. Thus, the term "sulfate-free" means that the surfactant does not include sulfate.Some examples of excluded sulfate surfactants include one or more alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, their derivatives, or combinations thereof.

[0150] Thus, each of the surfactants, alone or in combination, is present, in an amount by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming cleansing composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.015, 0.02, 0.025, 0.03, 0.035, 0.04, 0.045, 0.05, 0.055, 0.06, 0.056, 0.07, 0.075, 0.08, 0.085, 0.09, 0.095, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, at approximately 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Polymers

[0151] According to the disclosure, the composition may include at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer. In some embodiments, the polymer has a glass transition temperature (Tg) in the range of approximately -70 °C to approximately -30 °C. In particular, the composition may include at least one polymer suitable for assisting in the emulsification of the composition in the presence of at least one emollient oil.

[0152] In certain embodiments, where the composition lacks an emollient oil, such an oil-free system (e.g., serum or gel) may exclude the polymer. In certain particular embodiments, the composition includes a sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, especially when the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion as exemplified here, in which an emollient oil is present. In certain embodiments, at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer is selected from the group consisting of natural and synthetic polymers, including crosslinked polymers, gums, taurate-based polymers, carbomers, polyacrylates, and combinations thereof.

[0153] In certain embodiments, at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer is selected from a hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, a carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, C10-30 acrylates / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, gellan, xanthan gum and their derivatives.

[0154] In some embodiments, any one of the least cosmetically acceptable polymers is present in a range of approximately 0.4% to approximately 3%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the cosmetically acceptable polymer present in the composition does not exceed approximately 3%, by total weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of polymer is at least approximately 0.4%, at least approximately 0.5%, or at least approximately 0.6%, or at least approximately 0.8%, or at least approximately 1%, or at least approximately 1.2%, or at least approximately 1.5%.

[0155] In certain embodiments, the total cosmetically acceptable amount of polymer in the composition is from about 0.3% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.6% to about 1.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0156] Thus, each polymer or combination of polymers in the composition is present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, as disclosed below, from about 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, to about 3.0% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Water

[0157] The compositions comprise from about 1% to about 80% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the amount of water in the composition may range from about 5% to about 75%, or from about 10% to about 70%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0158] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, water The water from Allevar-les-Bains, Digne, Maizières, Neyrac-les-Bains, Lons-le-Saunier, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort, Saint Christau, Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains, or Avène can be used. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., recreating the characteristics of thermal water.

[0159] The pH of the composition, in particular the aqueous phase of the composition, can be corrected before combining the oil phase with the aqueous phase to avoid the practical difficulty of measuring the pH in an internal aqueous phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. In various embodiments, the pH is a physiologically acceptable pH. In some embodiments, the pH of the aqueous phase before emulsification can be corrected with pH adjusters to a pH in the range of about 5 to about 7 by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, ammonia, or a primary, secondary, or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.

[0160] Thus, water may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, to about 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 to about 80 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges. Solvent

[0161] According to the disclosure, one or more solvents may be present in the composition. The solvent present in the cosmetic composition, according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, water, alcohol, propylene glycol, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the solvent includes only water. In other embodiments, the solvent includes water and one or more other solvents. Although these solvents are given by way of example, it is appreciated if other solvents compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used. In some particular embodiments, the solvents include water.

[0162] In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more water-soluble solvents. The expression "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the expression "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of less than 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10, or C1-C4 alcohols), polyols, glycols, and combinations thereof.

[0163] Examples of water-soluble solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds. Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol;alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, ethylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-iso-propyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, and combinations thereof.

[0164] According to the various embodiments, the total amount of at least one water-soluble solvent, if present, is from about 0.5% to about 70%, or from about 1% to about 60%, or from about 5% to about 50%, or from about 10% to about 40%, or from about 20% to about 30%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will appreciate however, other areas fall within the scope of the invention.

[0165] It will be assessed by a qualified person that all solvents are present only to the extent and in quantities which do not materially and negatively affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure.

[0166] Thus, one or a combination of solvents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of approximately 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, to approximately 70 weights, including the intermediate increments and ranges. Humectant

[0167] According to the disclosure, one or more humectants may be present in the composition. In some embodiments, the humectant may serve as a plasticizer. In some embodiments, the humectant may comprise one or more of the following: glycerin, glycerol, glycols such as caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycol ethers such as C1-C4 alkyl ethers of monopropylene, dipropylene and tripropylene glycol, squalane, triacetin, sugars such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, lithium chloride, acetamide MEA, sodium lactate, urea, dicyanamide, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, honey, and seaweed extract.

[0168] In certain particular embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may include at least one humectant which is a sugar, for example a mono-, di- or saccharide, in certain specific examples, a sugar selected from sucrose, lactose, maltose, glucose, fructose, dextrose, galactose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, inositol or combinations thereof.

[0169] According to the various embodiments, the amount of humectant present in the composition may range from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or approximately 5%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the skincare composition. A person with ordinary skill in the art will, however, appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0170] Thus, any humectant or combination thereof, if present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from approximately 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to approximately 20% by weight, including the in- intermediate increments and ranges.

[0171] It will be assessed by a qualified person that all humectants are present only to the extent and in quantities which do not materially and adversely affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed disclosure. Optional components

[0172] In some embodiments, there may be one or more active ingredients present in the cosmetic composition, depending on the disclosure, the additive being selected from, for example, preservatives / antimicrobials (e.g., chlorphenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and caprylyl glycol); active ingredients (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone); vitamins (e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol / vitamin E, panthenol, retinol, resveratrol, vitamin C, niacinamide, their derivatives); hyaluronic acid is in the form of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. In some embodiments, hyaluronic acid is in the form of sodium hyaluronate; coloring materials / pigments; essential oils;antioxidants (phenolic compounds, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pi-noresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract), pine bark extract (Pinaster bark / bud extract), ellagic acid); vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as calcium pantothenate, tocopherol and ascorbic acid; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing, chelating or pH-correcting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, EDTA and sodium hydroxide);Powders, perfumes, dyes, pigments; organic or mineral UV filters; and their combinations.

[0173] In certain particular embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may include one or more of sucrose, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, phenoxyethanol, tocopherol, escin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and combinations thereof.

[0174] In certain embodiments given by way of example, a composition according to the disclosure may include one or more of sucrose (present at -1.4%), sodium hydroxide (present at -1.0%), citric acid (present at -0.00003%), phenoxyethanol (present at -0.50%), tocopherol (present at -0.0015%), escin (present at -0.30%), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (present at -0.30%) and combinations thereof.

[0175] Although the optional components are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with known cosmetic applications in the art may be used.

[0176] In accordance with the various embodiments, the quantity of one or more active ingredients and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the composition as disclosed, may be in a range from approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.15% to approximately 5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.40% to approximately 4%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A person with ordinary skill in art will, however, appreciate that other areas fall within the scope of the invention.

[0177] Thus, any one or a combination of active ingredients and additives may be present, each of them or the combination being present from about 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 at approximately 20 percent, by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0178] The examples below according to the invention are given by way of illustration and are not intended to be limiting. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The quantities are given as % by weight, unless otherwise stated. Manufacturing systems and articles

[0179] According to the various embodiments, the composition may be supplied in an applicator or in separate packaging supplied with an applicator to allow precise and controlled application to the skin other than by bringing the composition into contact with the target skin with the fingers.

[0180] It will be appreciated that in the various packaging embodiments, the composition may be contained in an applicator container for application using a brush, rollerball, sprayer, pad, or other surface. In some embodiments, the composition may be packaged separately from the applicator in a tube, packet, bottle, or jar along with the applicator that is used when the composition is intended to be applied to keratinous tissue, at which time the composition is applied or dispensed into the applicator. EXAMPLES

[0181] The examples below according to the invention are given by way of illustration and are not intended to be limiting. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The compositions and systems as described in these representative embodiments are chosen from commercially available materials, as shown in the examples of embodiments below. Example 1: Raw materials

[0182] [Tables 1] INGREDIENT / SOURCE MP PERCENTAGE OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT (IF < 100%) LM PECTIN Trade name: Unipectin 600 C SB; Manufacturer: Cargill 80% HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER Trade name: Sepinov EMT 10 Manufacturer: SEPPIC 89% active Raw materials

[0183] The inventive composition as exemplified herein includes the previous raw materials in which the active constituents of the raw materials are listed as separate ingredients; the quantities of active ingredients are given for the exemplified compositions as % by weight of the active ingredients relative to the weight of the entire composition, and not as quantities of raw materials unless expressly stated. Example 2: Inventive compositions and systems

[0184] An example of an embodiment of the inventive composition is shown in Table 2. INCI US INV1 PECTIN 5 to 6 SILICA 2.5-3.5 GLYCERIN 4 to 6 CALCIUM CHLORIDE 0.025 - 0.04 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.4 - 0.5 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 2.5 - 3.5 ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU SEED BUTTER 2.5 - 3.5 SUCROSE 0.8-1.6 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS / OTHER ADDITIVES (TOCOPHEROL, ESCIN, DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE, PHE-NOXYETHANOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, CITRIC ACID) -2.1 SURFACTANTS (POLYSORBATE 60, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE) -0.05-0.06 WATER QS Inventive Composition

[0186] Example 3: In vivo evaluation of an H / W prototype including pectin / SiO₂ on the face of a volunteer

[0187] An embodiment of the inventive composition according to the disclosure was evaluated in an oil and water formulation INV 1. The composition was applied to the wearers' faces, and the firming effect on wrinkles and under-eye bags was evaluated over a time interval from immediately before application to 7 hours post-application; the results are shown in Table 3 and in [Fig. 3], which presents photographic images of a test subject demonstrating the in vivo evaluation of a prototype formula including pectin / SiO2. As these results show, the tested embodiment of the inventive composition demonstrates excellent wrinkle smoothing, firming, and lasting efficacy over a period of at least 7 hours. Application Time Visible Effect Comfort, Aesthetics of the Firming Film Before Visible Puffiness and Fine Lines Under the Eyes 10 min Post-Application. Elimination of Puffiness and Fine Lines Flexible without Creasing or Pinching; without Flaking or Cracking 60 min Post-Application. Results After 10 min Continued Results After 10 min Continued 3 h Post-Application. Results After 10 min Continued Results After 10 min Continued 5 h Post-Application. Results After 10 min Continued Results After 10 min Continued 7 h Post-Application. Results After 10 min Continued Results After 10 min Continued In vivo test results

[0189] As demonstrated in the in vivo study, the inventive composition, including the firming system supplied in a direct oil-in-water emulsion, dispersion, or emulsion gel format, demonstrated superb skin-firming and anti-aging efficacy almost immediately, with a lasting effect that was maintained for at least 7 hours post-application. The skincare composition, including the firming system, which comprises the innovative combination of pectin and silica with emollient oil and the plasticizer glycerin, ensures cohesion of the firming film after drying on the skin and the desired adhesion, elasticity, and conformity to provide balanced efficacy benefits for tightening the skin and reducing or eliminating wrinkles and puffiness with an immediate and lasting effect without compromising skin comfort and aesthetics.

[0190] Example 4: In vitro assessment of film cohesion / adhesion: pectin and polymer mixture

[0191] An in vitro evaluation of different samples on a nitrile substrate was carried out for cohesion and adhesion, where, after drying of the film, the results shown in [Fig.3] demonstrate the superb internal stress arising from the combination of pectin and silica.

[0192] The experiment was conducted with test films arranged as shown in the Table 4. The results are reflected in [Fig.4].

[0193] [Tables4] Samples Aqueous dispersion of 5% w / w pectin and 2% w / w Na 2SiO3 Aqueous dispersion of 5% w / w pectin and 2% w / w SiO2 Aqueous dispersion of 5% w / w pectin Blank substrate

[0194] In vitro tests of various combinations of pectin and polymer

[0195] Example 5: In vitro assessment of film cohesion / adhesion: pectin and polymer mixture

[0196] An in vitro evaluation of different samples on a nitrile substrate was carried out for cohesion and adhesion, where, after drying of the film, the results shown in [Fig. 5] demonstrate the superb internal stress and non-scaling properties resulting from the inventive combination of pectin and silica (prototypes 1, 2 and 3).

[0197] [Tables5] PROTOTYPE 1 Ingredient Concentration % Water / Aqua 72.4% Sodium Hydroxide 1.1% Pectin 7% Silica 3% Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5% Glycerin 8.5% Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 1.5% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter / Bu-tyrospermum Parkii Butter 2% Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Inventive prototype 1 PROTOTYPE 2 Ingredient Concentration % Water / Aqua 74.9% Sodium Hydroxide 1.1% Pectin 7% Silica 3% Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5% Glycerin 6% Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 1.5% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter / Bu-tyrospermum Parkii Butter 2% Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Inventive Prototype 2

[0199] [Tables?] PROTOTYPE 3 Ingredient Concentration % Water / Aqua 73.9% Sodium Hydroxide 1.1% Pectin 7% Silica 3% Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5% Glycerin 6% Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 1.5% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter / Bu-tyrospermum Parkii Butter 3% Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Inventive prototype 3

[0200] Comparative ingredients

[0201] Water / Aqua / Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Silicate, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Magnesium Aluminium Silicate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Argan Spinosa Kernel Extract, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Hydrolyzed Lupin Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Foeniculum Vulgare (Foenul) Seed Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Steareth-20, Carrageenan, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol,

[0202] The experiment was conducted with test films arranged as shown in Table 8. The results are reflected in [Fig. 5]. Virgin Prototype 1 Virgin Prototype 2 Virgin Prototype 3 Virgin Virgin Comparison

[0204] In vitro tests of various inventive prototypes compared to blank controls (water)

[0205] The inventive compositions were compared to a commercial reference, Peter Thomas Roth- Instant Eye Firming (TM), and to the control (no composition applied). Referring now to [Fig. 5], none of the blank samples showed any perceptible curling of the test strips. Each of the inventive and comparative tests demonstrated significant tightening and curling of approximately equal magnitude; however, the comparative exhibited flaking and bubble formation, indicating brittleness, poor film cohesion, and poor adhesion to the substrate.

[0206] Example 6: In vitro demonstration of the tightening and flaking properties of various sample films on a protein leather substrate

[0207] An in vitro evaluation of different samples on the Supplare (Miyoshi) leather substrate was carried out for cohesion and adhesion, in which, after drying of the film, the results shown in [Fig. 6] demonstrate, from left to right: bare substrate, substrate with a prototype film of formula 2 including pectin / SiO2, substrate with a Comparative film, and substrate with a commercially available, common wrinkle-smoothing facial cream. As clearly shown in [Fig. 6], the test results show that the firming system including pectin with one of silica microspheres and silicate produces films that ensure tightening without significant flaking, peeling, or bubble formation, while the Comparative flakes and bubbles, exhibiting brittleness, poor film cohesion, and poor adhesion to the substrate.

[0208] Although illustrative embodiments have been shown and described, it will be appreciated that various changes can be made to them without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

[0209] The term "cosmetically acceptable" means compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, "cosmetically acceptable vector" refers to a vector compatible with any keratinous substrate.

[0210] The term “firming system” designates and refers to the combination of pectin with powder, in certain embodiments of silica microspheres or silicates or both, to form a firming film which imparts a res tightening to a substrate. In some examples, particularly for cosmetic applications according to the disclosure, the substrate is a keratinous substrate such as skin or hair.

[0211] The term "firming film" means and refers to a film formed according to the disclosure having a substantially uninterrupted surface over the entire length and width of the film as applied to a substrate, for example, a keratinous substrate such as skin. In various embodiments, the film has a thickness that may be constant or may vary over a surface of a substrate onto which it is spread, such as, but not limited to, application to all or part of the skin, such as, but not limited to, facial skin, or hair such as, but not limited to, eyelashes, eyebrows, and head hair. In some embodiments, the film thickness does not vary by more than 5%. The film may include skin actives that may confer additional benefits, including hydration, brightening, and revitalizing.The firming film demonstrates cohesion and good adhesion to the substrate with few or no bubbles and without flaking, peeling or cracking.

[0212] The terms "tighten" and "tightening" mean that the firming film contracts so that the substrate, such as skin or hair, is stretched and moderately tightened relative to the skin without the film, so that the film reduces the visual appearance of wrinkles in the skin.

[0213] The terms “Exclude,” “Exempt,” and “Essentially exempt” mean that no reliably measurable excluded material, for example, no amount exceeding approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of any excluded material as described herein, is present in the composition. The terms “Exclude,” “Exempt,” and “Essentially exempt” mean that, although it is preferred that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition.In particular, the terms "Exclude," "Exempt," and "essentially exempt" mean that the material may be present in the composition in an amount of less than 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, 1%, or 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to the various embodiments, it is envisaged that some or all of the following ingredients would be excluded from the composition according to the invention: powders including Nylon-12, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene beads, and powders that are considered microplastics; lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, and their derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow bark extract). capryloyl salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, tropic carnitine acid, and trethocanic acid; alkyl polyglucosides selected from the group consisting of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof; surfactants with a fatty alcohol in C2O-ClO or a hydrophobic acid condensed with about 2 to about 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobic; alkyl phenols in C2O-ClO condensed with 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and diesters of fatty acids of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan; mono- and di- fatty acids in C8-C20; polyoxyethylene sorbitan; polyoxyethylene polyglycosides and fatty saccharide amides (e.g.methyl gluconamides); alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates; alkylbenzene sulfonates; alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates; C8-C20 acyl isethionates; C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; alkyl ethercarboxylate, PEG-100 stearate; PEG-20 stearate and other poly(ethylene glycol) esters; sucrose stearate and other sugar ester emulsifiers; glyceryl stearate and other glycerol esters; PEG-15 disodium ethylene dicocamide; sodium sterol glutamate and other fatty amides; Steareth-100 and other fatty ethers, cationic surfactants and other cationic compounds, silicones, such as silicone polymers, silicone elastomers and silicone oils, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and their combinations, phthalates, parabens, sulfates, polyquaternium, microplastics, synthetic dyes, gelling agents and their combinations.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: a firming system which includes: - a weakly methoxylated pectin with a molecular weight of about 10 kDa to about 1000 kDa in a concentration of about 0.5% to about 10.0% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; - at least one powder in the form of microparticles of silica, sodium silicate, potassium silicate or a combination thereof in a concentration of approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; - at least one fatty compound which includes one or more vegetable butters selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter and their derivatives; where the total amount of vegetable butter present in the composition is from about 2% to about 9%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; - a hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyldimethyl copolymer sodium taurate; - water; and - of glycerin present in the composition at a concentration of about 2% to about 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, wherein the firming system further comprises at least one monosaccharide, one disaccharide or a combination thereof, is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film which exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition expressly excludes metal salts selected from calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is further characterized by one or more features selected from: (i) wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty compound which includes one or more emollient oils present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 6%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; (ii) wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty compound which includes one or more waxes, wherein the total amount of wax is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.05% to about 5%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; (iii) wherein the total amount of surfactant present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 20%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; or (iv) combinations of (i) - (iii).

4. Composition according to claim 1, (in which the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, or combinations thereof.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (i) said at least one fatty compound comprises one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of Copemicia Cerifera (Camuba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and combinations thereof; (ii) said at least one fatty compound and glycerin are present in a fatty compound-to-plasticizer ratio of approximately 1:1; (iii) the water content in the composition is from approximately 5% to approximately 75%, and the composition has a pH in the range of approximately 5 to approximately 7; (iv) the composition includes a mixture of surfactants comprising sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate 60; (v) the composition includes at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer, wherein the at least one polymer has a glass transition temperature (Tg) that is in the range of approximately -70°C to approximately -30°C, polymer being present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.4% to about 3%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; (vi) the composition is supplied in liquid form, for example as a lotion or cream, or in which the composition is supplied as makeup such as a foundation or mascara; or (vii) combinations of (i) - (vi).

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein: the composition is supplied with an applicator; and a cosmetic delivery system for a cosmetic product selected from the group consisting of an anti-aging skin treatment and makeup.

7. A cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein (i) the applicator is selected from a roller surface of a roller applicator, a bristle surface of a brush, a sprayer, a pad, a spatula, or combinations thereof; (ii) the composition is contained within the applicator, or wherein the cosmetic system comprises a container and in which the composition is contained separately from the applicator; (iii) the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a liquid or creamy emulsion comprising at least one fatty compound, or an oil-free serum for application to the skin to mitigate the signs of aging;(iv) the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of an emulsion or a viscous liquid suspension for application as makeup on keratinous tissue selected from skin, eyelashes and hair to impart firmness to the keratinous tissue; or (v) combinations of (i) - (iv).;

Images