Composition including an anti-aging active ingredient and a combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica

Abstract

Composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer, and silica. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one anti-aging active ingredient, - a superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, - a first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide, - a second surfactant selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, and - silica. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica

[0001] The present invention relates to a skincare composition which has an improved sensory experience both during and after application.

[0002] In the field of cosmetic skincare, cosmetic compositions that provide both good sensory properties and a skincare effect are increasingly sought after by users. A skincare effect refers, for example, to an effect against dryness or aging of keratinous materials, particularly the skin, this effect being provided by active agents.

[0003] However, obtaining this dual effect (good sensory properties and care effect) requires the ability to introduce hydrophilic active ingredient(s) in sufficient quantity into the composition without compromising the sensory experience which could be affected by the galenic chosen to incorporate said active ingredient(s).

[0004] To date, a wide variety of skincare compositions are already known and effective, but their sensory appeal still needs to be improved.

[0005] There is therefore a need for skincare compositions, in particular anti-aging compositions, with improved sensoriality.

[0006] In particular, there is a need for skincare compositions, especially anti-aging compositions, which provide a bouncy effect to the skin while offering improved sensoriality.

[0007] In particular, there is a need for skincare compositions, especially anti-aging compositions, which provide in particular a plumping effect to the skin while providing a less oily finish and / or a higher glide sensation and / or a lower film-forming sensation and a cooling effect upon application.

[0008] The inventors have now discovered that combining silica and a superabsorbent polymer selected from among starches grafted with an acrylic polymer in a composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient and two specific surfactants makes it possible to obtain a skincare composition with improved sensoriality, in particular providing a plumping effect to the skin while delivering a less greasy finish and / or a greater glide and / or a lower film-forming sensation and a cooling effect upon application. Indeed, it has been discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of the superabsorbent polymer and silica significantly reduces the linear viscoelastic range of the composition, allowing for an even stronger sensation of product transformation and therefore enhanced sensoriality. improved, compared to compositions containing neither superabsorbent polymer nor silica, or only one of the two.

[0009] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0010] - at least one anti-aging active ingredient,

[0011] - a superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by a polymer acrylic,

[0012] - a first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide,

[0013] - a second surfactant selected from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, and

[0014] - of silica.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0016] By “physiologically acceptable”, we mean a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0017] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0018] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, preferably to hydrate and / or to reduce the appearance and / or mitigate the signs of aging of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.

[0019] Superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer

[0020] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

[0021] A "superabsorbent polymer" is defined as a polymer that, in its dry state, is capable of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in "Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" by L. Bran Non-Pappas and R. Harland, Elsevier, 1990.

[0022] These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

[0023] The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e., 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These characteristics Water absorption rates are defined under standard temperature (25 °C) and pressure (760 mm Hg or 100,000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 µm filter for 20 minutes, and weighing the unabsorbed water.

[0024] The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or unhydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 pm, preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, ranging for example from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and better from 7 to 30 pm.

[0025] The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles with an average size ranging from 10 pm to 1000 pm.

[0026] The superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate. Such polymers exhibit gelling properties and a feel similar to that conferred by a silicone compound ("silicone-like" feel).

[0027] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

[0029] Examples include starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, particularly sodium polyacrylate, such as those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Ma-kimousse 25 or Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch).

[0030] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0031] The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which are preferably in the form of particles.

[0032] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having a size average (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, preferably still in particle form.

[0033] Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer chosen from among the starches grafted by an acrylic polymer is present in the composition of the invention in an active material content greater than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.06% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] First surfactant selected from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide

[0035] The composition according to the invention comprises a first surfactant selected from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide.

[0036] The number of ethylene oxide units in polyethylene glycol can range from 20 to 50, preferably from 35 to 45.

[0037] The fatty acid is preferably a C14-C24 fatty acid. It is understood that the fatty acid chain may be linear or branched, and saturated or comprising at least one unsaturation. Preferably, the fatty acid is a saturated, linear-chain fatty acid. The fatty acid is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid, preferably with a saturated, linear chain.

[0038] The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide is preferably a stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide (20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide, PEG-20 to PEG-50).

[0039] As an example of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide, we can cite the stearic acid esters comprising respectively 20, 30, 40 or 50 units of ethylene oxide, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 or Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

[0040] Preferably, the first surfactant chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

[0041] Second surfactant chosen: fatty acid esters in C-C and sorbitan

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises a second surfactant selected from the C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters.

[0043] The C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms respectively, with sorbitol. These esters may be selected, in particular, from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates are preferably used, and sorbitan stearates are preferred.

[0044] The fatty acid ester in Ci6-C22 and sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C.

[0045] Examples of sorbitan esters usable in compositions according to the invention include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by Croda under the name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, and sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

[0046] Preferably, the second surfactant chosen from among the C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan is present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight. Silica

[0047] The composition according to the invention comprises silica.

[0048] Preferably, the composition comprises silica powder, preferably in the form of silica microspheres.

[0049] Preferably, the DV50 of the silica microspheres (median size of the microspheres) is from 4 to 6 pm, preferably from 4.8 to 5.2 pm.

[0050] Preferably, the polydispersity of the size of the microspheres ranges from 0.9 to 1.2, preferably from 0.95 to 0.98.

[0051] Examples of silica powder suitable for the invention include porous silica microspheres sold under the name "SILICA BEADS SB-700" marketed by MYOSHI, "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33", "SUNSPHERE® H53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE® H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE® H-53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS.

[0052] Preferably, silica is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight. Anti-aging active ingredient

[0053] The composition according to the invention also includes at least one anti-aging active ingredient.

[0054] This active ingredient can be chosen from among the known anti-aging active ingredients of art.

[0055] Preferably, said active ingredient is selected from retinol and its derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, nia-cinamide and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] The composition according to the invention may include retinol and / or one of its derivatives.

[0057] Retinol (vitamin A) has the following formula (VII) structure:

[0058] By "retinol derivatives" we preferably mean C1-C24 retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate.

[0059] Preferably, the content of retinol and / or one of its derivatives in the composition ranges from 0.03% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The composition according to the invention may also include an active ingredient selected from vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Niacinamide has the following structure (I): (!)

[0062] Niacinamide or nicotinamide is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and whose CAS number is 98-92-0. This substance is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.

[0063] By "niacinamide derivative" is preferably understood to mean a compound in which the amide group of niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, preferably substituted by one or two alkyl groups independently selected from the groups C1-C4 alkyls.

[0064] One can cite, for example, the nicotinic acid product marketed by the company DSM Nutritional Products.

[0065] Ascorbic acid preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the following structure (II): HO OH 00

[0066] By "ascorbic acid derivative", preferably means a compound selected from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (in particular sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA®), potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate also called Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC®), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by DSM under the reference Stay-C 50®), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

[0067] By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in D form, i.e. in the form of glucopyrannose a or [3 or furannose a or [3, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-OaD-glucopyranoside, notably available from the company HAYASHIBARA.

[0068] Examples include RECKON ORGANICS' Ascorbic acid L® (pure synthetic ascorbic acid) or DSM nutritional product's Ascorbic acid Ultrafine powder® (natural extract).

[0069] Panthenol (or vitamin B5) has the following structure (III) OH

[0070] By "panthenol derivative", we preferably mean C1-C8 panthenol esters and ethers.

[0071] One can cite, for example, the product D-panthenol 75W® marketed by the company BASF.

[0072] Tocopherol preferably corresponds to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. Its purpose is structure the following formula (IV) (!V)

[0073] By "tocopherol derivative" is preferably tocopherol esters and ethers, preferably C1-C24 esters and ethers, preferably C2-C18 esters and ethers, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate.

[0074] One can cite, for example, the product DL Alpha Tocopheryl acetate® marketed by the company EISAI.

[0075] Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one additional vitamin or an additional vitamin derivative selected from tocopherol and / or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, panthenol and / or one of its derivatives and nia-cinamide and / or one of its derivatives, and / or any of their mixtures.

[0076] Preferably, the total amount of additional vitamin ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight.

[0077] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises panthenol and / or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and / or one of its derivatives.

[0078] According to another embodiment, the composition comprises tocopherol and / or one of its derivatives and ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives.

[0079] Any other lipophilic anti-aging active ingredient may also be present in the composition according to the invention. Oily phase

[0080] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an oily phase.

[0081] The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably as defined below.

[0082] Oil

[0083] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

[0084] A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

[0085] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.

[0086] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free from heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

[0087] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0088] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0089] By "non-volatile oil", we mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0090] Examples of usable non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include:

[0091] (i) vegetable-derived hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea kernel oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, almond oil and especially sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pothnarron oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, coconut oil; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

[0092] (ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched, symmetric or asymmetric dialkyl ethers, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);

[0093] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such Vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane and their mixtures (mineral oils);

[0094] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol" TN® by WITCO or TEGOSOFT TN® by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate,oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis®" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0095] (y) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpen-tadecanol;

[0096] (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

[0097] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC®" by the company Cognis;

[0098] (viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Examples of usable volatile hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] We can also mention the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Examples include the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO2008 / 155059.

[0101] We can also mention n-dodecane (Cl2) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97® and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0102] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SNELL, can also be used.

[0103] Non-volatile silicone oils can be selected in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0104] Examples of volatile silicone oils include, for instance, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones may optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include, in particular, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] We can also mention volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (X): CH (X) v.................g]...........o.............SrCH ] R

[0106] where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

[0107] Among the oils of general formula (X), we can mention: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (X) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

[0108] Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile PDMS.

[0109] Other fats

[0110] Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) may be chosen from:

[0111] - fatty acids comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0112] - waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba wax or Candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

[0113] - the pasty compounds, detailed below, such as butters of vegetable origin;

[0114] - solid fatty alcohols at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol;

[0115] - and their mixtures.

[0116] Preferably, the oil phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; and oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is > 10, and any mixture thereof. Advantageously, the oil phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, dii-isopropyl sebacate, and any mixture thereof.

[0117] Preferably, the oily phase of the composition further comprises another fatty substance selected from solid fatty alcohols at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol.

[0118] Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight of oil phase relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight. Aqueous phase

[0119] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0120] An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one solvent organic matter soluble or miscible in water.

[0121] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin waters, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water and water From Tercis-les-bains, Avène water.

[0122] An aqueous phase may also include at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.

[0123] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Among alcohols, we can mention alcohols in the form of Ci-Cio, more preferably in the form of Ci-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0125] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight.

[0127] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises 40% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 50% to 85% by weight.

[0128] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition comprises water, a C1-C1 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably selected from glycerol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propanediol and any mixture thereof.

[0129] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight. Other ingredients

[0130] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more excipients commonly used in cosmetics and dermatology, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; antioxidants; Perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; sequestrants; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these various excipients are those typically used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and can, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible active ingredients or excipients added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0132] Examples of thickeners include:

[0133] - carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TRI® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30 alky-lacrylate crosspolymer);

[0134] - polyacrylamides such as, for example, crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600® (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic;

[0135] - 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by the company SEPPIC;

[0136] - cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose;

[0137] - polysaccharides, and in particular carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum;

[0138] - water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as silicones acrylics, polyether silicones and cationic silicones,

[0139] - and their mixtures.

[0140] Preferably, the thickeners are chosen from polyacrylamides, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, cellulosic derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Thickeners are preferably present in an amount between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The composition may also include at least one polymer, in particular a hydrophilic one. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymer.

[0143] Water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0144] Examples of suitable water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers for the invention include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by Clariant.

[0145] Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS according to the invention include:

[0146] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (CTFA name: 5 3028758 57 POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600® (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ISOHEXADECANE / POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0147] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0148] - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / sodium acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM® (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0149] - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example co AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or as the product marketed under the name SODIUM ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE / HY-DROXYETHYLACRYLATE such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10® (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0150] - copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, even actually cross-linked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which bears the name AMPS / cetearyl ethoxylated (25 EO) 80 / 20 copolymer, cross-linked by trimethyl-lolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in INCI name.

[0151] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) or its salts may be used as a sequestering agent. Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is the compound with formula (VI): (VI). H s H HO^ A --x .X Y v oh as H O -X HO O

[0152] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are particularly preferred.

[0153] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active matter in water), or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0154] Preferably, among the usable active ingredients, betaine, disodium EDTA, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, adenosine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-tbutyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, magnesium gluconate, phytic acid, or perfumes are preferred.

[0155] Among the preferred preservatives are hydroxyacetophenone, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

[0156] Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0157] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated.

[0158] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%w / w). EXAMPLES

[0159] Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention and of compositions comparatives

[0160] The composition Cl according to the invention and the comparative compositions C2* to C5* of Table 1 below are prepared by the following protocol:

[0161] Preparation of phase B by mixing the ingredients at a minimum of 65 °C in a homogenization tank

[0162] Addition of the homogeneous phase A (aqueous phase) heated to approximately 50 °C

[0163] Addition of C with the dilution water to cool

[0164] Addition of phase D followed by gelation under stirring

[0165] Addition of phase E ingredients, fillers,

[0166] Addition of F, then G under an inert atmosphere

[0167] Addition of alcohol (T below 30°C). Phase Ingrédient (% p / p) Cl C2* C3* C4* C5* A Charge (YELLOW 5) 0,0002 - - - - C PANTHENOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 A Charge (RED 4) 0,0003 - - - - B Conservateur Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs B Parfum 0,2 - - - - H ALCOOL DENAT. 3 3 3 3 3 A Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 D HYDROXYETHYLCELLU LOSE 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 B PEG-40 STEARATE 2 2 2 2 2 A GLYCERINE 8 8 8 8 8 B SORBITAN TRISTEARATE 0,9 0,9 0,9 0,9 0,9 E LAUROYL LYSINE - - 2 - - D ISOHEXADECANE 3 3 3 3 3 B ISONONYL ISO- NONANOATE 5,5 5,5 5,5 5,5 5,5 B Alcool cétylique 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 B CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,35 0,35 0,35 0,35 0,35 D AMMONIUM POLYACRY- LOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2,7 2,7 2,7 2,7 2,7 E SILICE 2 - - 2 - F SODIUM ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYL-DIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) PO- 2 2 2 2 2 LYSORBATE 80 G RETINOL (10% by weight of active ingredient) 3 3 3 3 3 A ADENOSINE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 B PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DLT-BUTYL HY- DROXYHYDROCINNAMA TE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 A PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 3 3 A TRISODIUM ETHYL NEDIAMINE DL SUCCINATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 A NIACINAMIDE 2 2 2 2 2 D SODIUM POLY-ACRYLATE STARCH (Makimousse 12 from Daito Kasei) 0.1 - - - 0.1

[0169] Example 2: Sensory evaluation of compositions Cl and C2* to C5*

[0170] Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to C5* were evaluated by an expert panel of 20 people. Sensory aspects, such as stickiness, upon application of the compositions to the skin were assessed. The panel consisted of experts trained on various point-of-care products according to a standardized application procedure. The evaluation criteria are standardized and rated on a scale of 1 to 15 (from not to very). 0.05 ml of the formula is applied to one cheek in 10 rotations. Hands are washed with soap and water and then dried before evaluating various parameters, including stickiness and slipperiness, assessed 2 minutes after application.

[0171] The results obtained are summarized in the following table 2: Cl C4* C3* C5* C2* Difference in % of Cl vs. C4* C3* C5* C2* Thickness under the finger (grip) 10.14 10.4 9.63 9.88 9.79 -2.4% 5.3% 2.6% 3.6% Oily application arm 6.01 7.2 7.81 6.8 7.38 -16.5% -23.0% -11.6% -18.6% Gliding 1 turn 6.48 8.91 8.8 8.85 8.57 -27.3% -26.4% -26.8% -24.4% Gliding 15 turns 6.15 8.61 8.51 8.29 8.29 -28.6% -27.7% -25.8% -25.8% Gliding 25 turns 5.51 8.01 8.14 7.81 7.88 -31.2% -32.3% -29.4% -30.1% Oily fingers, facial application 3.36 4.53 4.59 4.71 4.83 -25.8% -26.8% -28.7% -30.4% Sticky skin after 2 min 1.12 1.77 2.84 3.25 3.85 -36.7% -60.6% -65.5% -70.9% Slippery skin after 2 min 9.84 7.84 6.99 6.35 6.46 25.5% 40.8% 55.0% 52.3% Film-forming after 2 min 1.17 1.96 2.52 2.59 2.86 -40.3% -53.6% -54.8% -59.1%

[0173] A difference of 10% is considered significant.

[0174] The results obtained demonstrate that the Cl composition according to the invention differs from the comparative compositions C2* to C5* in that it is perceived

[0175] - less greasy and less slippery to apply, and

[0176] - less sticky, less slippery and less film-forming after application

[0177] This demonstrates a synergistic effect of the combination of silica and the super polymer absorbent chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

[0178] Example 3: Rheological evaluation of Cl and C2* to C5* compositions

[0179] The rheological studies below allow for the quantitative measurement of texture differences between the Cl composition according to the invention and the C2* to C5* compositions.

[0180] Each composition was evaluated as follows:

[0181] The measurements are carried out on a constraint rheometer, RS 600 from the company ThermoRhéo, equipped with a thermostatically controlled bath and a stainless steel spindle with cone / plane geometry, diameter 35 mm and angle 2°. The measurements are carried out at a temperature of 32°C.

[0182] The composition is then subjected to harmonic shear under a sinusoidally varying stress r(t) with an angular frequency co (co = 2nn), where n is the frequency of the applied shear. The sheared composition thus experiences a stress r(t) and responds with a deformation y(t).

[0183] The stress r(t) and the strain y(t) are defined respectively by the following relations:

[0184] r(t) = To cos(œ.t) y(t)= y0 cos(co.t - ô)

[0185] To being the maximum amplitude of the stress and y0 being the maximum amplitude of the strain. The elasticity ô is the phase angle between the stress and the strain.

[0186] The measurements are carried out at a frequency of 1 Hz (n = 1 Hz).

[0187] Increasing constraints are applied to the sample starting from a constraint initial equal to 0.01 Pa to reach a final stress of 1000 Pa, the stresses being applied only once.

[0188] The evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli G' and G” and of the elasticity ô is measured as a function of the applied stress t.

[0189] The parameters evaluated are as follows:

[0190] - The constraint (t) at the crossing point, which corresponds to the phase transition between a so-called solid state and a more liquid state, and

[0191] - The length of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain G' (linear domain where (rheological parameters are independent of the applied stress), which indicates the more or less long duration after which the material will modify its structure in response to the applied stress (we speak of LVR).

[0192] The results obtained are shown in the following table 3:

[0193] [Tables3] Cl C4* C3* C5* C2* % Difference from Cl vs. C4* C3* C5* C2* r stress in Pa at the intersection 194.2 199.1 156.5 172.5 172.7 -2.5% 24.1% 12.6% 12.4% End of linear viscoelastic domain, LVR (G1 in Pa) 646.5 756.2 756.2 685.5 630.5 -14.5% -14.5% -5.7% 2.5%

[0194] These results demonstrate once again the synergy provided by the combination of silica and the superabsorbent polymer chosen from among starches grafted with an acrylic polymer. Surprisingly, the stress at the phase transition is close to that of silica (with a difference of -2.5%), while the extent of the viscoelastic range is more in line with that of a filler-free formula or even one composed solely of superabsorbent polymer. Despite their "absorbent" physicochemical properties, the silica and the superabsorbent polymer combined in composition Cl according to the invention do not exhibit cumulative absorbing properties. Composition Cl according to the invention has a lower LVR than the comparative compositions C4* and C5*, which comprise only silica or superabsorbent polymer. The rheological properties of composition Cl according to the invention are therefore surprising and unexpected.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one anti-aging active ingredient, - a superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, - a first surfactant selected from fatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide, - a second surfactant selected from fatty acid esters in Ci6-C22 and sorbitan, and - silica.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is a starch grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, preferably in the form of particles.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is present in an active material content greater than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.06% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first surfactant is selected from C14-C24 fatty acid esters, advantageously stearic acid, and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 units of ethylene oxide, preferably comprising 35 to 45 units of ethylene oxide.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a second surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which

8.

9.

10.

11.

12. silica is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anti-aging active ingredient is selected from retinol and its derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anti-aging active ingredient is retinol and / or one of its derivatives, preferably in an active ingredient content of 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion. Cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to one of the preceding claims. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, preferably to moisturize and / or to reduce the appearance and / or mitigate the signs of aging of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.