COMPOSITION INCLUDES IONICALLY CROSS-CROSS-CUT HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT CHITOSAN

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING IONICALLY CROSS-CROSSED HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT CHITOSAN The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, wherein (a) the cationic polymer is selected from chitosans with a molecular weight greater than 20,000. The composition according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with good alignment and shape recovery effects and can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING IONICALLY CROSS-CROSSED HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT CHITOSAN technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including ionically cross-linked high molecular weight chitosan, and to a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0003] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0005] As is known in the art, certain cosmetic compositions and any other composition utilize a polyionic complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.

[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 171909 discloses a composition which includes at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more of two pKa values. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] There is a need for a composition that can provide keratin fibers such as hair with good alignment and shape recovery effects while including one or more environmentally friendly ingredients. The alignment effect means that the keratin fibers can be easily arranged into a desired line, such as a straight line. The shape recovery effect means that the keratin fibers can easily return to their original shape.

[0008] Thus, a first objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can offer keratinous fibers such as hair good alignment and shape recovery effects.

[0009] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0010] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising

[0011] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0012] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0013] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it;

[0014] in which

[0015] the (a) cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0016] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The (b) monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof may be a monovalent non-polymer organic acid or a salt thereof, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, and more preferably, a lactic acid or a salt thereof.

[0018] The quantity of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The (c) non-polymer acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be an organic acid or a salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid with at least one phosphoric acid group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups, or salts thereof, and more preferably a phosphoric acid, a diphosphoric acid, a citric acid, a tartaric acid or salts thereof.

[0020] The quantity of the (c) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

[0022] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be 50% to 99% by weight, preferably 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.

[0024] The (e) oil can be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.

[0025] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty acid.

[0027] The (f) fatty acid can be chosen from C4-C26 fatty acids, preferably C6-C24, more preferably C8-C22 saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched.

[0028] The (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicized by the (f) fatty acid.

[0029] The quantity of the (f) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising

[0031] the application to keratinous fibers of the composition according to the present invention, and

[0032] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous fibers. Brief description of the drawings

[0033] [Fig. 1] The [Fig. 1] shows schematic drawings showing the behavior of (a) cationic polymers around an oily phase, where appropriate, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in an aqueous phase, and examples of hydrophobization of (a) cationic polymer, in an embodiment of the present invention.

[0034] [Fig.1A] Fig.1A shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a) cationic polymers around a fatty phase, where appropriate, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the case of a fatty phase not including any (f) fatty acid.

[0035] [Fig. 1B] [Fig. 1B] shows a schematic drawing illustrating the behavior of (a) cationic polymers around an oily phase, where appropriate, such as a droplet of oil, dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the case of an oily phase including a (f) fatty acid.

[0036] [Fig. 1C] [Fig. 1C] shows a schematic drawing illustrating the example of the hydrophobization mechanism of (a) the cationic polymer by (f) the fatty acid. Best embodiment of the invention

[0037] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition that can offer keratinous fibers such as hair good alignment and shape recovery effects, and can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0038] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0039] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0040] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0041] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it;

[0042] in which

[0043] the (a) cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0044] Keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can be easily arranged into a desired line, such as a straight line. Furthermore, keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can easily return to their original shape. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can offer good styling of keratin fibers such as hair.

[0045] The (a) cationic polymer can be ionically crosslinked by the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof. The crosslinked cationic polymer can provide improved bonding and shape memory effects between keratinous fibers such as hair. Consequently, the crosslinked cationic polymer can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with good alignment and shape recovery effects. Thus, the present invention can, for example, provide excellent hair-styling effects.

[0046] Since chitosans can be obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0047] Furthermore, ingredients (b) and (c) can be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. The composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0048] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising (d) water.

[0050] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one oil, the composition according to the present invention may comprise fatty phases comprising (e) the oil. If the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty acid, the (f) fatty acid may be present in the fatty phases.

[0051] The oily phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. In this case, the oily phases are discontinuous phases, while the aqueous phase is continuous. The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) solution.

[0052] The (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicated by the (e) fatty acid. The hydrophobicated (a) cationic polymer can be present between the oil phase and the aqueous phase to stabilize the oil phase. Thus, the oil phases can be stably dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0053] The composition according to the present invention is stable even when it comprises a relatively large quantity of the (e) oil. The composition according to the present invention may include a relatively large quantity of the (e) oil.

[0054] The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long period. In other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period.

[0055] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period.

[0056] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0057] (Cationic Polymer)

[0058] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.

[0059] There is no limit on the type of (a) cationic polymer. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.

[0060] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0061] The (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 30,000, more preferably, greater than 50,000, and even more preferably, greater than 80,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

[0062] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be less than 2,000,000, preferably less than 1,000,000, more preferably less than 500,000, and even more preferably less than 300,000.

[0063] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer can be greater than 20,000 and less than 2,000,000, preferably greater than 30,000 and less than 1,000,000, more preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and even more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

[0064] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight by weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0065] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0066] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3 (1,4) type bond.

[0067] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0068] The "chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan is composed of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0069] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0070] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0071] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0072] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or of a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0073] Chitosan may be of genetically modified organism (GMO) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0074] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0075] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0076] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

[0077] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] (Monovalent non-polymer acid or salt thereof)

[0081] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof. Two or more monovalent non-polymer acids or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymer acids or salts thereof, may be used.

[0082] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as acrylic polyacids.

[0083] The term "salt" here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which can be obtained from a reaction with Monovalent non-polymer acid reacts with base(s) using methods known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for instance alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0084] Preferably the molecular weight of (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof is less than 1000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 100 or less.

[0085] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (d) water. The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a) cationic polymer in the aqueous phase.

[0086] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be chosen from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and salts thereof, preferably monovalent organic acids and salts thereof, and more preferably monovalent carboxylic acids and salts thereof.

[0087] The monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which can be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.

[0088] The monovalent non-polymer acid can be chosen from among the hydroxy acids, and preferably the alpha-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid.

[0089] The monovalent non-polymer acid can be a monovalent non-polymer organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably a lactic acid.

[0090] The amount of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The amount of (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] The quantity of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] (Non-polymeric acid having two or more of two acid dissociation constants)

[0094] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, i.e., at least one non-polymer acid having two or more acid dissociation constants or a salt thereof. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25 °C.

[0095] The (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, or a salt thereof, may be included in the aqueous phase including (d) water. The (b) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may function as a crosslinking agent for the (a) cationic polymer.

[0096] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers, such as a polycarboxylic acid.

[0097] Preferably the molecular weight of (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or of a salt thereof is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.

[0098] There is no limit to the type of (c) nonpolymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or of a salt thereof. Two or more different types of nonpolymer acids having two or more pKa values ​​or of salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) nonpolymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or of a salt thereof, or a combination of different types of (c) nonpolymer acids having two or more pKa values ​​or of salts thereof, may be used.

[0099] The term "salt" here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to a non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from a reaction with the non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​with the base or bases according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0100] The (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be an organic acid or a salt thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or a salt thereof.

[0101] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may have at least two monovalent acid groups, which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group and a a mixture of these.

[0102] It is preferable that the non-polymeric acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​has at least one phosphoric group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups.

[0103] A non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​can be a polyvalent non-polymeric acid. The polyvalent non-polymeric acid can be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] (c) non-polymer acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid and salts thereof; aspartic acid, glutamic acid and salts thereof; terephthalylidene diamphrulfonic acid or salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid and salts thereof;Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brillant Blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carminé), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B), et Black 401 (Naphthol Blue Black); acide folique, acide ascorbique, acide érythorbique et sels de ceux-ci ; cystine et sels de celle-ci ; EDTA et sels de celui-ci ; glycyrrhizine et sels de celle-ci ;and a mixture of these.

[0105] It may be preferable that the (c) non-polymer acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof be chosen from the group consisting of phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, phosphonic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and salts thereof, and more preferably phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and salts thereof.

[0106] The amount of the (c) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.005% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The amount of the (c) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] The quantity of the (c) non-polymer acid(s) having two or more of two pKa values ​​or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] (Water)

[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

[0111] (d) water can constitute an aqueous phase which can be, for example, a phase continues in the composition according to the present invention.

[0112] The quantity of (d) water may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The quantity of (d) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] The quantity of (d) water can be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] (Oil)

[0116] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0117] The (e) oil can constitute fatty phases which can be, for example, dispersed or discontinuous phases in the composition according to the present invention.

[0118] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0119] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

[0120] The (e) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils derived from biological resources such as oils of vegetable or animal origin; oils derived from non-biological resources such as synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols, derived from chemicals; and their mixtures.

[0121] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0123] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0124] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0125] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0126] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0127] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26, can also be used.

[0128] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0129] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids and preferably of C2-C22 fatty acids can be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing oxygen containing several Alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0130] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0131] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in Ci2-C22* If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0132] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0133] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0134] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono-ooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0135] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0136] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0138] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0139] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0140] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0141] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0142] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0143] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0144] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0145] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0146] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C20 alcohols, linear or branched.

[0147] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially. used.

[0148] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0149] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] It is preferable to use oils from biological resources such as oils of vegetable or animal origin, and more preferably vegetable oils.

[0151] Oils of vegetable or animal origin may include hydrocarbon oils.

[0152] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as dodecane, tetradecane, hexadecane, octadecane, squalane, hemisqualane, and the like.

[0153] It is preferable that the (e) oil be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.

[0154] Where appropriate, the (e) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of (a) cationic polymers or a complex of (a) cationic polymers and (c) a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, or the (e) oil may be present in the hollow of a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex. In other words, the (e) oil may be covered by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex, or a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers and the above complex includes the (e) oil in the hollow of the capsule.

[0155] The (e) oil that is surrounded by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex, or present in the cavity of the capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex, cannot come into direct contact with keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, even if the (e) oil has a sticky or greasy feel during use, the composition according to the present invention would not provide a sticky or greasy feeling during use.

[0156] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] (Fatty Acid)

[0160] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be identical or different.

[0161] The term "fatty acid" here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0162] The (f) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The (f) fatty acid may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, the (f) fatty acid is selected from the C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably from the C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably from the C8-C fatty acid. 22-

[0163] The (e) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (f) fatty acid may be selected from C4-C26 fatty acids, preferably C6-C24, more preferably C8-C22, saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched.

[0164] Monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, or polyunsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may be used as unsaturated fatty acids. A carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be specified as the unsaturated fraction of the unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched.

[0165] Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecanoic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Ci7), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0166] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).

[0167] It is preferable that the (f) fatty acid be chosen from saturated fatty acids or linear or branched C8-Ci8 unsaturateds, and more preferentially in the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and their mixtures.

[0168] The (f) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or a salt thereof. Examples of fatty acid salts include inorganic salts such as a salt of an alkali metal (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or the like); and organic salts such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. In addition, a combination of one or more fatty acids in free acid form and one or more fatty acids in salt form may be used, in which one or more types of salts may also be used.

[0169] The amount of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Furthermore, the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Consequently, the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention to be from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] (pH)

[0173] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5, and more preferably from 3.5 to 8.

[0174] At a pH of 3 to 9, the (a) cationic polymer or a complex of the (a) cationic polymer and the (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof can be very stable. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be very stable at a pH of 3 to 9.

[0175] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid, other than (b) a monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, or (c) a non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0176] (Alkaline Agent)

[0177] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.

[0178] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of ammonia; alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0179] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferable as an inorganic alkali metal.

[0180] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. Preferably, the organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives.

[0181] Examples of organic alkali-aggregate agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as ornithine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: RI R3 nrn' R2 R4

[0182] in which R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and Rh R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0183] The alkali agent(s) may be used in a total quantity of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0184] (Acid)

[0185] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0186] As an acid, any inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, that are commonly used in cosmetic products may be cited. A monovalent acid and / or a polyvalent acid may be used. A monovalent acid such as hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used.

[0187] The acid(s) may be used in a total quantity of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0188] (Optional ingredient)

[0189] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, in particular, surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than (a) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives other than (e) oil; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) cationic polymer or (e) oil; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0190] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] The amount of the surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or synthetic thickener(s) and / or organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener or organic solvent. [Preparation]

[0192] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the or essential ingredients as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0193] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0194] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]

[0195] The composition according to the present invention may be intended for use as a cosmetic composition.

[0196] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous fibers. Keratinous fibers herein refer to fibers containing keratin as their principal constituent, and examples of these include hair and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is intended for use in a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, particularly hair.

[0197] It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, and more preferably a hair care cosmetic composition. [Shape]

[0198] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form.

[0199] If the composition according to the present invention includes (e) oil, the (e) oil can form oily phases, (d) water can form an aqueous phase, and the oily phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, and the oily phase can function as a dispersed phase. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) dispersion such as an O / W emulsion. If the composition according to the present invention is of the O / W type, it can provide a cooling sensation due to (d) the water that forms its outer phase. [Mechanism]

[0200] Figure 1 shows schematic drawings illustrating the behavior of (a) cationic polymers around an oily phase, where appropriate, such as a oil droplet, dispersed in an aqueous phase, and examples of hydrophobization of (a) cationic polymer, in an embodiment of the present invention.

[0201] A plurality of (a) cationic polymers or a complex of (a) cationic polymers and (c) a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof may be present at the interface between the oil phase and the aqueous phase. Thus, the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex may form an emulsion without the aid of any conventional surfactant or emulsifier. The emulsion formed by the (a) cationic polymer or the above complex may be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

[0202] Alternatively, a plurality of the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex can form a capsule having a hollow. The (e) oil can be present in the hollow. In other words, the (e) oil can be incorporated into the capsule. The capsule wall can be composed of a continuous layer or a film formed from the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is thought that the (a) cationic polymers or the above complex can be rearranged at the interface between (d) water and (e) oil to spontaneously form a capsule having a hollow to include the (e) oil. For example, a continuous aqueous phase comprising (d) water and dispersed phases comprising (e) oil in the capsule can form an O / W emulsion that can also be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

[0203] The oil phase may include the (f) fatty acid, if present. The (f) fatty acid in the oil phase may hydrophobize the (a) cationic polymer in situ. [Fig. 1] shows a scheme of hydrophobization of the (a) cationic polymer by the (f) fatty acid

[0204] Fig. 1A shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a) cationic polymers around a fatty phase, where appropriate, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the case of a fatty phase not including any (f) fatty acid.

[0205] In [Fig. IA], the (a) cationic polymer may exhibit insufficient hydrophobicity. Consequently, the affinity between the (a) cationic polymer and the oily phase, including the (e) oil, may be limited. Thus, the emulsification of the oily phase in the aqueous phase may be less stable.

[0206] On the other hand, [Fig.1B] shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a) cationic polymers around a fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the case of a fatty phase including (f) a fatty acid.

[0207] In [Fig. 1B], the carboxylic group in the (f) fatty acid in the fat phase can interact ionically with the cationic or cationizable group, such as a group ammonium or an amino group is present in (a) the cationic polymer, as shown in [Fig. 1C]. Consequently, (a) the cationic polymer is ionically hydrophobic and can exhibit sufficient hydrophobicity. Therefore, the affinity between (a) the cationic polymer and the oil phase, including (e) the oil, is enhanced. Thus, the emulsification of the oil phase in the aqueous phase is stable. [ Movie ]

[0208] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film.

[0209] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 µm, more preferably 1.0 µm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 µm or more, comprising:

[0210] the application to keratinous fibers such as hair, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0211] the drying of the composition.

[0212] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention can be 1 mm or less, preferably 500µm or less, more preferably 300µm or less, and even more preferably 100µm or less.

[0213] Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention includes the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to keratinous fibers such as hair, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require deposition with a spinning wheel or spraying, and consequently it is possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as deposition spinning wheels and spraying machines.

[0214] Even though the film according to the present invention is relatively thick, it remains thin and can be transparent, and therefore may not be easily perceptible. Thus, the film according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.

[0215] The present invention may also relate to:

[0216] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably 1.0 qm, and even more preferably 1.5 qm or more, prepared by a process comprising:

[0217] the application to keratinous fibers such as hair, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0218] drying of the composition,

[0219] and

[0220] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 qm, more preferably 1.0 qm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 qm or more, comprising:

[0221] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans of a mo ecular greater than 20,000;

[0222] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0223] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt of it.

[0224] The film may also include (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.

[0225] The above explanations concerning (a) cationic polymer, (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, as well as optional ingredients such as (e) oil and (f) fatty acid, can be applied to those of films (1) and (2) above.

[0226] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be hydrophobic.

[0227] In this descriptive document, the term “hydrophobic” means that the solubility The film's water content in water (preferably with a volume of 1 liter) at 20 to 40 °C, preferably 25 to 40 °C, and more preferably 30 to 40 °C, is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the film. It is highly preferable that the polymer not be water-soluble.

[0228] If the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film can have water-resistant properties and, consequently, can remain on keratinous fibers such as hair, even if the surface of the keratinous fibers is wet due to, for example, perspiration or rain. Thus, when the film according to the present invention provides a cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last a long time.

[0229] The film according to the present invention may comprise at least one layer of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.

[0230] The term “biocompatible” polymer in this specification means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction between the polymer and the cells of the living body including the skin, and that the polymer is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

[0231] The term "biodegradable" polymer in this specification means that The polymer can be degraded or broken down in a living organism due to, for example, the metabolism of the organism itself or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the organism. Furthermore, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0232] If the film according to the present invention includes a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, for example, it may be less irritating or non-irritating to the scalp and / or it may not contaminate environments.

[0233] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.

[0234] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous fibers such as hair. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0235] The present invention also relates to:

[0236] a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous fibers; or

[0237] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0238] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or coating of keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0239] The film of the present invention can offer keratinous fibers such as hair a good alignment effect and a good shape recovery effect, as explained above.

[0240] In addition, the above cosmetic film can immediately protect keratinous fibers such as hair by covering the surface of the keratinous fibers and protecting them, like a barrier, from environmental aggressions such as pollutants, contaminants and the like.

[0241] The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or regulated by changing the chemical composition, thickness and / or surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.

[0242] If the above cosmetic film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than (e) oil, the cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient such as a deodorizing agent, the cosmetic film may regulate odors on keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0243] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans with a molecular weight greater than 20,000, in a composition for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0244] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0245] (c) at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values or a salt thereof, or

[0246] in order to improve the alignment and shape recovery of keratinous fibers.

[0247] The above composition may also include (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.

[0248] The above explanations concerning (a) cationic polymer, (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof, and optional ingredients such as (d) water, (e) oil and (f) fatty acid, may apply to those of the above use. EXAMPLES

[0249] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 31 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 [Preparations]

[0250] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 31 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 to 8. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Tables 1 to 8 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0251] The details of the preparation are as follows.

[0252] First, chitosan was added to water. Then, lactic acid was added to solubilize the chitosan (provided that for Comparative Examples 6 to 10, lactic acid was not used because the low molecular weight chitosan used therein was soluble in water without the aid of lactic acid). Next, a crosslinking agent (phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, citric acid, or tartaric acid) was added slowly. Then, a fatty acid (oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, or erucic acid) was added with an oil (corn oil) to be emulsified and mixed at room temperature.

[0253] [Tables] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.0 1.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phosphoric acid 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 - - Oleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

[0254] Crosslinking agent: Phosphoric acid

[0255] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0256] [Tables2] Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Diphosphoric acid 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.3 Oleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5 5 5 5

[0257] Crosslinking agent: Diphosphoric acid

[0258] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0259] [Tables3] Ex. 14 Ex. 15 Ex. 16 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 Citric acid 0.1 0.2 0.3 Oleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5

[0260] Crosslinking agent: Citric acid

[0261] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0262] [Tables4] Ex. 17 Ex. 18 Ex. 19 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 Tartaric acid 0.1 0.2 0.3 Oleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5

[0263] Crosslinking agent: Tartaric acid

[0264] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0265] [Tables 5] Ex. 20 Ex. 21 Ex. 22 Ex. 23 Ex. Comp. 3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phosphoric acid 0.1 0.2 0.4 0.6 - Isostearic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5 5 5

[0266] Crosslinking agent: Phosphoric acid

[0267] Fatty acid: Isostearic acid

[0268] [Tableauxô] Ex. 24 Ex. 25 Ex. 26 Ex. 27 Ex. Comp. 4 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phosphoric acid 0.1 0.2 0.4 0.6 - Linoleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5 5 5

[0269] Crosslinking agent: Phosphoric acid

[0270] Fatty acid: Linoleic acid

[0271] [Tables7] Ex. 28 Ex. 29 Ex. 30 Ex. 31 Ex. Comp. 5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (WH > 20,000) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phosphoric acid 0.1 0.2 0.4 0.6 - Erucic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5 5 5

[0272] Crosslinking agent: Phosphoric acid

[0273] Fatty acid: Erucic acid

[0274] [Tables8] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 Ex. Comp. 8 Ex. Comp. 9 Ex. Comp. 10 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (MW > 20,000) 2.0 - - - - - Chitosan (MW < 5,000) - 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 - - - - - Phosphoric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.4 0.6 - Oleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Corn oil 5 5 5 5 5 5

[0275] Crosslinking agent: Phosphoric acid

[0276] Fatty acid: Oleic acid [Reviews]

[0277] (Hair alignment)

[0278] 0.15 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 31 and Examples Com Comparatives 1 to 10 were applied to 2.7 g of hair and dried with a hairdryer. The alignment of the dried hair was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0279] Very good: Much better than the control

[0280] Good: Better than the control

[0281] Bad: Identical to the witness

[0282] The results are shown in Tables 9 to 14 below.

[0283] (Shape recovery)

[0284] 0.15 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 31 and Examples Com Comparatives 1 to 10 were applied to 2.7 g of hair and dried with a hairdryer. The dried hair was combed through, and shape recovery—that is, the extent to which the hair lay back when touched by hand—was visually observed and assessed according to the following criteria.

[0285] Very good: Much better than the control

[0286] Good: Better than the control

[0287] Bad: Identical to the control

[0288] The results are shown in Tables 9 to 14 below.

[0289] [Tables9] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 14 Ex. 15 Ex. 16 Ex. 17 Ex. 18 Ex. 19 Ex. Com P- 1 Hair Alignment X Very Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Test of shape ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne ne oin

[0290] High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight

[0291] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0292] [TableauxlO] Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 11 Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Ex. Comp. 2 Hair Alignment Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Control Shape Recovery Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Control

[0293] High molecular weight chitosan: 1% by weight

[0294] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0295] [Tables II] Ex. 20 Ex. 21 Ex. 22 Ex. 23 Ex. Comp. 3 Hair Alignment Good Good Good Good Control Shape Recovery Good Good Good Good Control

[0296] High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight

[0297] Fatty acid: Isostearic acid

[0298] [Tables 12] Ex. 24 Ex. 25 Ex. 26 Ex. 27 Ex. Comp. 4 Hair Alignment Good Good Good Very Good Control Shape Recovery Good Good Good Good Control

[0299] High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight

[0300] Fatty acid: Linoleic acid

[0301] [Tables 13] Ex. 28 Ex. 29 Ex. 30 Ex. 31 Ex. Comp. 5 Hair Alignment Good Good Good Good Control Shape Recovery Good Good Good Good Control

[0302] High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight

[0303] Fatty acid: Erucic acid

[0304] [Tables 14] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 Ex. Comp. 8 Ex. Comp. 9 Ex. Comp. 10 Hair Alignment Very Good Poor Poor Poor Poor Control Shape Recovery Good Poor Poor Poor Poor Control

[0305] High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight

[0306] Low molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight

[0307] Fatty acid: Oleic acid

[0308] (Summary)

[0309] According to Tables 9 and 10, it can be seen that the composition according to the present invention including a various crosslinker has shown good or very good effects regarding hair alignment and shape recovery, compared to the composition not including any crosslinker.

[0310] According to Tables 11 to 13, it can be seen that the composition according to the present invention including a different fatty acid has shown good effects regarding hair alignment and shape recovery, compared to the composition not including any crosslinker.

[0311] According to Table 14, it can be seen that the use of low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight below 5,000 resulted in poor effects with regard to hair alignment and shape restoration, compared to the composition not including any crosslinking agent. The use of high molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight above 20,000 resulted in very good effects with regard to hair alignment and shape restoration, compared to the composition using low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight below 5,000.

[0312] Moreover, the composition according to the present invention includes one or more environmentally friendly ingredients

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric organic acid or a salt thereof; (c) at least one non-polymeric organic acid having two or more pKa values ​​or a salt thereof; (e) at least one oil selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof; and (f) at least one fatty acid in which the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans with a molecular weight greater than 20,000 Da and a degree of acetylation less than 70%.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof is monovalent carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, and more preferably, lactic acid or a salt thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (c) non-polymer acid having two or more of two pKa values ​​or a salt thereof is a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid with at least one phosphoric acid group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups, or salts thereof, and more preferably a phosphoric acid, a diphosphoric acid, a citric acid, a tartaric acid or salts thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the molecular weight of (a) cationic polymer is greater than 20,000 Da and less than 2,000,000 Da.

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (e) oil is selected from vegetable oils.

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (f) fatty acid is selected from C4-C26 fatty acids, preferably C6-C24, more preferably C8-C22 saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is hydrophobicated by the (f) fatty acid.

9. A cosmetic process for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous fibers; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous fibers.

Images